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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/28/2023 in all areas
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Liana, you REALLY need to add some additional insulation under the bath vanity to reduce the intense cold for your plumbing there. Your flush toilet water line originates there! My hull 218 had no insulation whatsoever at much of the upper front wall, which is directly exposed to the outside by way of the propane compartment... This kind of mod is not at all difficult, if you aren’t modifying the lines themselves. The standard bubble foil insulation has a very small R Value of 1, compared to R5 for the 1” foamboard, a big, big difference! The board is $20 for a 4’x8’ sheet at the box store. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9039-how-to-bath-sink-compartment-mods-duct-rework-insulation-disconnect-flush-line/ Modifying the heat duct there under the bath sink for some extra airflow is also fairly simply, add an adjustable steel elbow after removing all the excess flex ducting (mine had an additional 48”!) and remove the plastic diffuser plate at the opening. Voila, a much toastier toilet seat and also a warmer wall near that pesky water flush valve… the air flows around the back of the toilet. You HAVE to get extra warm airflow through all the dead end compartments, this means opening existing hatches or doors, or adding more fixed ones (such as inexpensive round 4” heater vents) . The standard Ollie design is very marginal, and a little disappointing for a trailer advertised as “Four Season”. FYI the PEX plastic lines will tolerate freezing to a degree, but the brass fittings and the steel valve may split wide open. If you can’t correct this issue, you must winterize the system. John Davies Spokane WA4 points
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I believe so. He doesn't ask about my past, so I don't ask him about his. We have a mutual agreement, and it usually involves food.4 points
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Bump, just in time for Winter. John Davies Spokane WA3 points
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One of our own has a WeBoost mast mounted on suction cup kayak rollers on the back of his Oliver. You can see Steve's description about 16+ minutes into this video:2 points
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One area in ours that appears to need extra "R" value is behind the fridge. With the new Isotherm 2 way fridge, there's no need for ventilation to the outside, and yet the '23s just have a thin plastic cover behind the upper vent on the outside. Depending on outside temps, the fridge can have some pretty big temperature swings because of the fact this space behind the fridge is pretty much subject to outside temps. This morning the fridge was off and yet the sensor inside read 20 degrees. This was with a cabin temp of 63. I know it would be different if the furnace was running, but in the summer this space gets quite warm and on some days the fridge struggles to get below 40 deg, and that's with the AC keeping the cabin at around 72. It wouldn't take too much to bring that space under a better level of control.2 points
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It’s not cold, it’s not winter, it’s only down to 12° F here at the house. 😂2 points
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Looks like a Terrier/Papillon mix.?? Cool little guy! Thanks for sharing.2 points
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As permanent protection for you calmaek cover, I totally see the value. Eliminate all the sharp edges.2 points
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Totally get y'all's concerns. The key requirement for us was to get the Dishy off the ground and still be able to use it without the OTT. The EZ Pole and mount is robust - 4 nested aluminum tubes. High wind conditions would require striking the colors, lowering the dish to the 6.5-foot position and thus keeping it off the ground. FYI, in snowy conditions, the user can select the snow melt mode (more energy) via the SL app to keep accumulation at check and maintain high signal strength. There are flat mounts available for SL that we've studied - but once its flat-mounted on the roof, you're committed to that application - we wanted flexibility to use SL if we were tent camping, for example. As noted, we're also interested in a 12vDC conversion and shortening the proprietary CAT6 SL cable to save a bit of energy - but that's down the line. We want to log some more trips in the current mode first so we're better able to make an informed decision on what best meets our needs. Guys.... Beware, there are some scary rabbit holes one could fall into when researching the RV-applicable mods for SL kits... Many hours spent crawling through these tunnels. HA!2 points
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If I recall, it was John Davies that first posted the idea. A primary purpose was to facilitate the use of an IR temperature sensor at rest stops to periodically check the hub temperature directly. This I do as well.2 points
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I have a corollary question: We've had several nites of single digit temps, I've done no mods other than empty the outdoor shower hose and add a layer of foam inside the door over the valve handles (further, would not have the capacity or wherewithal to do some of the amazing stuff above). I've left the lav door open because I know that space gets SUPER cold if you don't. The (standard) toilet supply line seems like it might be frozen, no water refills it when opening the valve to empty the bowl. The sink valve works fine. I've never had that happen before, anyone else (with standard toilets, obv the composters need not reply)? So, now I have the access hatch on the forward street side cabinet propped open hoping to warm that side of the trailer. Forward street side corner of the lav is most definitely the weakest part of this system! I have an electric heater (am hooked to shore power) so thinking I will put it in the lav and shut the door. OTOH, my brother is trying to be in his 3 season trailer in these temps and is having NOTHING but trouble, so I remain appreciative of the *relatively* headache free winter camping2 points
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When we purchased our OE2 in 2018, we passed on the solar kit due to cost and my obsession with not messing with the aerodynamics of the super smooth OE2. As expected the costs of solar panels are more reasonable now, but the commercialization of flat thin flexible panels has taken awhile. I don't know if these panels will flex enough for full roof coverage, but a combination of the slim and rectangular thin panels may suffice for great aerodynamics. Should that be the case, with thin connections it may be the ticket. Anybody tried this out yet? GJ1 point
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7V8ZT6L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=11 point
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We left Palmetto SP yesterday afternoon to have a late lunch in San Antonio, and upon return a few hours later the touch light above the sink was fading in and out. Strange, because no lights were left On. This is one of the lights previously mentioned with a prior problem, but this was a first for this anomaly. When I touched the light it went full bright, but would not turn Off! Sadly, I had to find a way to block the light since I’m a light sleeper, no pun intended! Enter a dinette seat back cushion; to no surprise, another reason for my wife to call me a ‘nut’. So to bed I went, bedcovers over my head, but awakened around 2am with a thought; the Master Light switch. In careful execution and much anxiety, flip Off, light Off; now what? So, with much curiosity, flip On, light still Off, yahoo! As not to push my luck, I returned to bed with a sense of accomplishment and drifted off to sleep once again. However upon awakening, more anxiety and curiosity; will the light come On when touched and operate normally? A resounding YES!1 point
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@Nan Can you tell us more about your Oliver? What brand of batteries do you have now? How many do you have? Do you have solar? Do you have an inverter? Who will complete the battery installation? Do you boondock or camp without electric hookups? How soon do you need the job completed? Mossey1 point
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One approach to moving air, as the above dozens of posts have discussed, is to duct it. Another way is to not duct it and use pressure differentials to move the air. SO, if you are not a "ductor", think about this concept: The basement is sort of a sealed compartment. With a little bit of effort it could become closer to being one. Then add a computer fan at the curb side under bed bulkhead to slightly pressurize the basement area with warmer air. To get this warmer air to the shower/fresh/city port areas, you'll need to open up a passage way between them and the basement and a vent to the street side under bed area. Hypothetically, at this point convectional air movement (Warm air rises, cool air falls) may be enough to freeze proof the area. If not, add a second 2 watt mini fan. Worst case is you will be pulling about 4 watts of power (two fans) vs. 300 watts of electrical resistance heating. GJ1 point
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But, be really careful using "Great Stuff" standard expanding foam to avoid overfilling the cavity. You could bow out the fiberglass hull if overfilled, which, given the degree to which the foam expands, could be as little as 50% full before expansion. A safer, but in my experience less durable, option is minimally expanding foam.1 point
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Steve, where did you find the hook that is threaded onto the spare tire cover bolt? I have the same setup and would like to add this enhancement to my rack. Thanks Jeff1 point
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I can absolutely appreciate the durability of the panels, but my original intent was to create a permanent solution to protecting our Calmark cover from the sharp edges of the panel frames, and make cover installation easier. Turns out both were accomplished and the aesthetic improvement was a bonus. But by no means does every owner need this. I thought if it worked for us maybe others that use a storage cover would want to have the option. The whole project cost under $100 with the Formufit brand furniture PVC ordered through Home Depot. It does take a little patience and carpentry skill to cut and fit the assembly to the panels, but once complete, it only takes a few minutes to install or remove if you ever need to.1 point
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Necessary maybe not, but it sure enhances the looks/appearance of his Oliver. Great work Chris, Mod On Brother! 👍🏻😊1 point
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Thank you. Wall-to-Wall sunshine yesterday in the low 50's after a day of snowing on Saturday... Cheers!1 point
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We left NH in mid-October and headed southwest. On Thanksgiving Day we were at Live Oak Ridge Park (COE) in Belton, TX. With so little space to store leftovers we decided to cook a turkey breast on the grill and have mashed potatoes and broccoli salad as sides. I made an apple pie in the microwave/convection and it was sure better than my "harder than stabilizer brick" brownies. I might be getting the hang of this thing! The turkey breast was delicious! We've been from NH to TX in the last 5 weeks and not yet seen another Ollie, but we keep looking! Paula1 point
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Also check all your brake wiring and brake operation. I've heard of SOB trailer owners having melted wires and/or damaged brake magnets from this scenario.1 point
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Well, the odds are that they are wrecked, but it is worth trying to salvage them, a charger with a “reconditioning” feature might possible revive them, unfortunately with four (?) batteries, the odds are high that at least one is irredeemable, so you may end up replacing them all, so that one bad unit won’t discharge the others…. i have a 6 amp C-Tek charger that I used successfully on my truck when I left a dome light on for several weeks over the summer, the battery appears to be fine now, but it may prove to be toast once the winter chill sets in… I did disconnect the leads when charging, to protect the vehicle systems from the higher voltage. This charger is way too small for your big storage batteries, it might be best to talk to a local shop. CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery Charger,Black Keep in mind a retail shop will be eager to sell you new batteries rather than fixing your old buggered ones. Maybe an auto-electric repair service would be more productive. Good luck, I bet you said a lot of bad words. I sure did. John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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Air pressure should not be able to build up in any tank. They should be vented through the roof, even with the dump valve and toilet closed. I suspect the tank and part of the vent stack was completely filled with fluid. That would absolutely create a toilet geyser.1 point
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Yes, descale HWH with vinegar. But dump it. Keep it isolated from any bleach. Use the hot water isolation valve to do so. When done, then button up the HWH open the isolation valve and flow fresh water through it to purge all vinegar and scale out of the HWH. I have attached my water systems checklists. It has several processes with detailed steps that a new owner could follow easily. Once you have done them a few times, it will come natural. But I do understand not knowing for sure what you think you may not. Each use I find ways to improve them. So If you or others see errors or ways to improve them, please PM me and I'll update. Mahalo, GJ 2024 WATER SYSTEMS SERVICE AND SANITIZATION (Updated 2024 Version).docx1 point
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That is / was my first thought too. It will likely be what I use when I get the replacement "O" ring(s).1 point
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Bosker is a rare breed MIKI, and at 9.5 Lbs, he is a perfect fit inside my 2008 Elite. I often tell fellow travelers that for me, "It's all about the dog". Just ask him and Bosker will proudly tell you he's the center of the universe. His picture adorns the front of The Wonder Egg. We'll be at the rally this year, Stop by and meet Bosker, but look out, you may sucked into his orbit!1 point
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Great idea, Ollie-Haus! We take our "Fur-Baby" everywhere. Although we're new to the Ollie family, for sure - we've been able to transition 25+ years of RV'ing, backpacking, and general out-of-doors puppy practices/experience to make it work as comfortably as possible for Magnus in our OTT. We've met a ton of Fur-Baby RV'ers over the years with dogs, cats, dogs 'n cats, birds, pigs, and even a monkey! I'm thinking we pet-lovers all have many things in common, but in particular, an underlying theme: We tend to gravitate to RV'ing/camping because we can accommodate and have our pets during our road trips without the expense of a "Puppy Hotel" while being away. It may take a bit of pre-trip planning is all, right? FYI, here are some of the aspects we always consider: 1. What are the pet "Rules" at the destination(s) - are they even allowed?; 2. Pet food/water/treats, etc. - enough for the trip duration?; 3. Collar w/tracking device (we use Apple AirTags), campsite lanyard (20-foot), floatation vest (if needed), boots (if needed), 4. "Service Dog" vest, if so trained; 5. If other families are joining in a "caravan" - are their Fur-Babies compatible with ours? There's probably more than those listed above - but y'all get the idea.... Cute Story: We're camping in Flagstaff, AZ - Magnus is maybe 8-9 months old and we met an Irish couple there with their wolfhound that was the same age as ours. Check out the size difference! For us, our pets literally bring us so much happiness an fun that being without them on a trip seems like a foreign thought! Cheers/Woof!1 point
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I thought I responded to this query, so I apologize for the delay. We bought the VMAX XTR-235AH marine batteries and they did fit in our 2019 LEII battery tray but required me to strap the long way on the battery tray as indicated in our posted pictures. I purchased directly from the VMAX distributor in Michigan and order on Monday or Tuesday and received the batteries on Thursday or Friday of the same week. I did take the time to insure they were fully charged before installing including letting them sit for 24 hours. The batteries have only gotten stronger since the install. I did do a test early on to insure that I wouldn't have a recurrence of the issue running the furnace for several days after a full charge. They worked well. I am also going to try to keep the SOC above 80 percent to make sure we get the number of cycles expected. This important for AGM or VRLA deep cycle batteries.1 point
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We went with Battleborn years ago. Their internal management systems make them worry free. Best investment we've ever made in our RVs! You couldn't pay me to go back to AGMs. BBs are warrantied for 8 years. Two BBs equals more power output than contained in 4 AGMs. Charlie.1 point
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Bill, it's quite impressive that you are still running on the T105s! We replaced our 2018s in the spring after many electrical issues. I waited for the Battleborns to go on sale and yes, big invesment up front, and yes, the peace of mind about no more need for constant battery monitoring is worth every dime to me. Now I monitor our batteries more out of curiosity about our actual AH usage than a need to make sure we're staying above the AGM threshold.1 point
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I completed the installation of my new VMAX AGM batteries. There are 4 - 6V 237Ah batteries. Due to the very slightly dimension difference I eliminated the straps that clipped on the battery tray and use two heavy Nite EZ cargo straps that each hold down 2 batteries. After testing I feel confident we are back to normal when we don’t have shore power overnight during the heating season. I drew the batteries down almost 70Ah and still had a 93 SOC.1 point
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We received our VMAX batteries today. They are a tight fit in our 2019 LEII battery tray so I will need to use a different tie down strap. The metal hook for the tray is just a might too wide. I may go with an alternative looped strap instead or modify the existing strap. I also will have to order 2 new 4/0 gauge battery cables to allow sufficient bend of the cable because the M8 post and normal post are closer together so it is hard to fit the adapter Oliver used on the post far enough down on the post to insure it will stay pit. I only have this issue on the positive sides of the parallel connection but it is recommended that the interconnect always be the same gauge and length. After I finish the install I will attach a picture of the final install.1 point
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