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I think I got it precisely backwards. I think I need this instead.

So I recently played around some with AirTags that were registered to me and had them “follow” my wife’s phone without my phone present. Her phone pretty quickly got a notification that she was being followed. Her iPhone gave her the option of playing a sound on the AirTag so it could be located, but no other option that I could see to disable the. AirTag. I subsequently removed the speakers from my hidden AirTags. If they can’t find them they can’t remove them.

Per your reference, I checked Splendiday.com and order out a set of them. Their design uses four "Petals" vs. most others that have just three. I like that. I've used rivet (Blind Flush Nuts as my GrandPa called them) nuts for many decades and they can be a PITA for fiberglass just as you stated. Also for plastic IMHO. Thanks for the suggestion. GJ

I purchased also the Orion dc to dc charger 30 amp , but I charge from a spare power station I have. Victron has new DC to DC charger 50 amp that is scheduled to be released in us next month. Its 98 percent efficient compared to existing 82 percent. Lower temperature from high efficiency. I preordered it, of course they improve it. It also will tie into my victron components . Great Job on your install.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ If your not as patient as me in making cables. Battery cables usa is a wonderful resource. Im redoing my electrical in oliver with a vicrtron lynx distributor. Check out this great manufacturer at fair prices and USA made. Very High quality. Agree totally!

Thanks everyone for your comments or suggestions! Tom and Doreen - thanks for the link, that was an informative read. I need to measure, visually verify, our tank to see if it is less than 14" tall, indicating there is only one sensor strip to go out. In my troubleshooting imagination, I could see two stacked strips and the top one went bad. 🙂 Jason Foster - we use the black tank flush port (multiple times), that sprays water into the tank. Geronimo John - I have not tried dusting the sensor, thanks for that suggestion. I'll get a can of compressed air to blow on the sensor, from a distance. Mike and Carol - we have put Dawn dish liquid in the tank before using the black tank flush port, to help break down whatever. We have not tried to soften the water so I can try that with borax....or driving around with a full-ish tank and dish soap & borax. We have regularly used Happy Camper for maintenance during our ownership. Two years of ownership and the readings started acting up in the last few months so I suspect this is nothing to do with the previous owners. SeaDawg - we regularly use our toilet, just not for poop. We will try using Mike & Carol's method, with more attention to detail on where our previous methods have differed from theirs and see (hopefully, fingers crossed) if we get different results. I would much prefer to clean then replace a part, if possible. Thanks again everyone for the input! We will keep plugging away on this issue until we get it resolved one way or another. 🙂 Alberta

Another winter project with help of good friend with "SKILLS" in welding aluminum. Added Bumper box. Thanks to all who contributed on the subjet. I did get endcaps put on and license plate bracket . Before picture. Picture was taken . Will update with better pictures later when snow clears.

I just ran across and decided to follow a web site that's been ongoing for 23 years according to the introduction. It has a wealth of information about everything RV. Numerous articles are posted each week by actual RVers about every topic that's relevant. My reason for posting this here is because the first search I did was simply for "Oliver" and found that four articles they've posted over the past few years popped up. Thought it was worth sharing. https://www.rvtravel.com/?s=Oliver

@MAX Burner After seeing and operating your door at Q a few weeks ago, I’m convinced it would take a 40 mph wind to move the door and equally convinced it would never be slammed or jerked out of your hand by less than hurricane force winds. Another owner showed up the day after you left with an uninstalled set of these hinges. They were so tight I could not open them with my hands. @jd1923 I agree with your assessment about the lack of holes in one half of the hinge.

Installed our like-new Amazon set today. Amazon "like new" means somebody opened the box, retaped and returned it. Don't need to drill holes in the door or door jamb. The supplied 1 3/4" white-headed self-taping screws with square-bit drive were awesome. I have often pre-drilled for "self-taping screws", but these were sharp and strong of high quality, good hardware. You need a good 1/4" impact driver, no template, just center and get the first hole right. But WTF with this manufacturer drilling most, but not all the holes required for the install? Rarely or never have I run into this kind of BS. They put 3 pre-drilled holes in the two leaves mounting to the door, but only one pre-drilled hole on each of the three leaves mounting to the door jamb. Also, there was not enough screws supplied for all the screw holes suggested. I drilled one extra hole in each door jamb leaf (2 total vs. 3 per the instructions). This way there are 6 screws in the door and 6 in the door jamb to hold each hinge. I had just enough screws, with one left over! Nothing like a door with 5 hinges! It does hold steady wherever you put it. Can't stand the hold-open door latches on RVs and trailers. I always forget they're latched and then I shut the door, over and over again! Did somebody break the stock one on our hull, or did these come with only a very thin wire hook? Somebody must have broken ours before I got a chance to do so! I will be removing ours next. This way I'm certain it's not latched. Thanks again, what a nice mod! Heard about the friction hinge mod just 2 days ago and it's already installed for pennies.

Thanks For posting this mod! Finished mine Today

Just Finishing My install of Nova Cool. Wow what a workout. Thanks for all of input. My biggest issues is getting it leveled in existing hole. 2.5 months of hitting it on the weekends. Thanks to all who have contributed. I closed off all my holes and purchased table on bottom hole. I know how John D. felt after installation couple times. Here are couple quick shots. Fridge door came damaged from nova Kool, box was unharmed. But door tore up on bottom. Definately a workout. Tore up old fridge to get out and put back together if anyone one needs old 3 way fridge . Give me a jingle. Used one season. Thanks for everyones input.

Most campgrounds that say 50a also have a 30a and 20a right in the same box.

I used SS ones, but if I had to do it over I would use aluminum or THESE in size M5x25. I found the SS ones were tough to bulge/seat propery, but I think it was because of the homemade tool I used!

If the previous owners were not diligent with their black tank maintenance, you may be dealing with their deposits that have become a part of the tank. Yuck. As Jason suggested I would add before filling the tank I would throw in a detergent pod and some liquid Calgon water softener. Also, drive around a bit to get some agitation. If you’re going to leave it sit for a while you might try some Happy Camper, we add it whenever we’re home and our trailer is going to sit for a month or two. After every dump we add a laundry detergent pod (whatever is cheap) and some Calgon water softener. We usually dump at our destination, driving with some level of fullness in the black tank. The only time we dump before we leave is if we’re going to a location where we won’t be able to dump. When dumping, I always fill the tank to 80% or so and then do a couple of additional fills/flushes until what comes out is clear. Good luck! Mike

Hi There. We are registered now and will be in site B07. We just got our hull number today: 1501. Pam and David Hokanson Can't wait to meet other Oliver owners!

We did see the Oliver trailers in Springfield, both an LE1 and an LE2. The Olivers were displayed next to several Intek Sol trailers (which seem like decent campers). Asking price for the LE2 was slightly over $100K. Saw a couple glance at the LE2 price tag and say, "Are they crazy," so we engaged them and told them about the superior construction of the Olivers. Chatted a bit with one of the sales reps but I think we were more excited about the Olivers than he was. No Oliver family present at this show. While we were there, we did see a couple go inside the LE2 and sit down, a good sign. It was really good to see OTT represented, for sure.

UPDATE: We got our's on Amazon about 9 months ago - used them on several overseas trip, currently using them on our Dive Trip in St. Maarten, French West Indies/Lesser Antilles - working great! We did, however, replace the batteries in each of the A-Tags before this trip just to play it safe. Easy to do. When we're not traveling - one lives on Magnus' collar and Oscar gets the other, FYI.

Those are nice suspenders. But will they hold your britches up?

I picked up one of these relatively inexpensive generator test kits a while back. It lets you verify both generator voltage and also how many watts and amps the generator is actually generating at site conditions (altitude and temperature) with the clamp meter. This can help you rule out generator issues. It comes with a test pigtail to make measurement easy. (see pictures below). You can find it at Microair .net

Yep - #2 not #1. Or, you could ask the campground where you have the reservation if they could move you or if the site you have reserved also has a 30 amp plug at the pedestal - many do. Bill

Insert between steps two and three: "Open a hot water faucet to relieve pressure." Otherwise, you may be sprayed with pressurized scalding water when opening that yellow lever! For in between situations, we opted for the Truma anti-freeze kit, which keeps the heating vessel warm to avoid freezing. We've used it frequently when it is close to freezing before leaving home or when we're on the road and can't run the trailer heater.

As a safety check as you contact Oliver. There have been a few of those under the dinette transfer switches that failed due to loose wiring connections inside and had thus melted internal wiring. Transfer relay wires can wiggle loose and cause the switch to toggle back and forth when power is applied. To check, you would need to disconnect from shore power and generator, then open the transfer switch box to check if its connections are tight and no smoked wiring.

Old school internal sensors failed early, and always. SeeLevel is awesome, imo. We used them in our boat, too, when we upgraded our system, based onbl their reliability in our camper. As everyone has noted, including @Jason Fosterthey still have to rely on sending through the wall. You said you rarely use the black tank. Change that up, and do follow @Mike and Carol practices. DON'T dump that black tank when only a bit full. Do add calgon, or borax mixed with warm water first, and drive it around to the next camp site. (The old school ice in the tank has never worked for us, in used rentals that we've delivered.) If you follow Mike and Carol's procedures, several times, with a mostly full tank ( you can see it, on visual inspection), you have a bad sensor , imo. Contact SeeLevel. Replacing the sensor with a poop pyramid, or unclean tank walls, will yield the same results. So, do try to clean it up first, imo.

Hi everyone. Our forum is a great place to gather and share information about our wonderful trailers. A few years ago (2018) the moderators put together their thoughts on how we should all "play together" here to foster the Oliver Owners family harmony. If you haven't seen these before, please acquaint yourselves with our Forum Guidelines. If you have seen them, consider taking a few minutes to refresh your memories. A family that plays well together is a happy family. Enjoy your trailer as you wander about this great nation! 1OLIVER FORUM GUIDELINES Welcome to the Oliver Forum, a great place for Oliver Travel Trailer owners and future owners to interact, share knowledge, solve problems, and most importantly, to develop friendships. Respectful and considerate responses help build this community. You’ll find a wealth of experiences here, and many owners willing to share their experiences. Have fun, but please keep others’ viewpoints in mind. Respectfully state your point, share your information, or ask your question. Keep it casual and friendly. Reread your post before you hit submit. Is it helpful? Thoughtful? Please try to stay on the original topic of the thread. Confusing the issue may cause the member’s original question to go unanswered. Start a new topic if you have a new question. It’s important for all members to have the environment and opportunity to contribute in a considerate manner, and to learn. Inflammatory and trolling comments shall be removed by a volunteer moderator. We encourage members to use the “REPORT” function (bottom right corner of each post) to help us, as we’re not reading every post, 24/7. If your post is removed, you’ll receive a PM about it. If there is a continuing problem, further action may be taken, up to and including your removal from the forum. Some inflammatory topics to avoid include religion and politics. We’re all about camping, and Oliver campers. Over the years, we’ve seen a few simple topics turn into heated debates. It’s natural to want to jump in, but honestly, it’s often better to let it go, and hit the report button, instead. We moderators are avid campers. Even as we write this, we are all out camping, some with limited bandwidth. We respond as quickly as we can, and the sooner we know, the better. Some have asked why our forum is linked to the Oliver website. Valid question. Since the beginning of our forum in 2008, Oliver Travel Trailers (OTT) has paid for our Oliver “sandbox”, including our web space and an administrator who knows way more than we do about maintaining the software, for which we are very grateful. OTT DOES NOT CENSOR OR INTERFERE with the moderators’ management of the forum content. Moderators are not employees of OTT. We are Ollie owners, and receive no remuneration. OTT does have a employee designated to read the forum for the purpose of improving the “Ollie Experience” for all, but that’s a few minutes a day in a busy job description. If you should ever have an issue or a warranty claim, call tech support. Your post might not be seen on the forum by an Oliver employee. With that in mind, we moderators ask you to communicate directly with the company and afford them an opportunity to satisfy any serious needs before flaming OTT on the forum. We are not asking that anything to be swept under the rug. Just, please, let Oliver Travel Trailers have the first shot to meet and exceed your expectations. Sometimes, communications here may be misinterpreted, because the written word just doesn’t carry the visual clues of face to face conversations. Should you believe a post is a little ill-mannered, consider the poster might be trying to be helpful, but isn’t able to put his or her words together the way you might. Forums work best when our skin tends to be a bit on the thicker side. Remember as well, whatever you post will likely be permanent, and picked up by automated internet software programs. Though this is our forum, it’s still on the world wide web. Our words may very well outlive us. Please, be especially patient with newbies. Our search feature is still being tweaked, and they may not have found an answer by simply using “Search”. You may remember your own newbie questions . . . of many years ago. If you have already answered the same newbie question as many times as you care to, relax and allow someone else to step up and reply. Help foster a community of teachers. We recommend all phone numbers and email addresses be sent in private messages and NOT posted. If you must post personal data, we suggest you post in a manner so trolling automated internet programs will not grab your personal information and use it nefariously. For instance, a phone number might be “8ThreeZero, 5one5, 9 2 eight seven”, or for an email address, something like “Bill DOT Fisher at flyboy DOT com”. Please reread this, and help us continue to make our forum a great place for everyone. We hope you enjoy our forum. Thank you, bugeyedriver, SeaDawg, ScubaRx, Mike and Carol, topgun2 , Mossemi Oliver Owner Moderator Team

UPDATE: Well, after about 8 months and 5,800+ miles of testing the Lippert hinges in various windy conditions - they all but make the outside "door hook/latch" obsolete. We no longer use it to prop the door open anymore, FYI. As @Patriot might opine... a "sano mod"! HA! Cheers, All!

The newer rearview cameras that are installed by Oliver have a built in "hood/cover" that helps protect the camera from sun and rain and (perhaps) some glare. However, those of us with the older cameras no such "protection" is built-in. So, after seeing another one of these cameras where the owner (sorry, I do not remember just who that was) fabricated a hood/cover, I thought that I would try to do the same for my camera. I had some reasonable flexible plastic sheeting laying around the workshop that had originally been used during the installation of a "ceiling" under part of our decks on the house. I believe that the product was called "Underdeck". Anyway, using a bandsaw I cut out a rough shape and then used a heat gun to soften the plastic sheet such that I could hand mold it into the basic shape I wanted. Next, I refined the rough shape again using the band saw and then started sanding until I was basically satisfied. A bit more molding of the cover using the heat gun - note that I actually used the camera as a base for this "final" molding but was careful to not let the camera get too/very hot for the obvious reasons. Then it was a bit of hand sanding - this is not really that difficult given that the plastic is fairly soft. Perhaps the "final" detail of the project was the most difficult - the placement of the holes that aliened the outside bracket with the plastic hood with the holes in the camera body. Note that the bolts that attach the bracket to the camera body are not very long and with the added material of the plastic hood being involved there is not much room for error on this step. Finally, when I was satisfied with how it looked I spray painted the underside of the hood with ultra-flat black paint so that glare/reflection would be reduced. Questions? Bill p.s. Note: In the pics below it really doesn't show, but, the top of the hood does not rest directly on the top of the camera. This allows any heat from the camera and/or the sun to be dissipated such that neither should be subjected to too much heat. l This is the hood that I copied. I reduced and shaped the edges of mine such that there would not be any interference by the hood with the camera angles out to each side. The above is the camera mounted prior to making the hood. TopTop Back Front

GI NOTE: For the Bathroom Cubby install, the below does not apply to this install. For the anchor point install it would apply. For applications where you can somehow get to the back side here are two considerations: For high load applications, or ones that will be subject to strong vibrations, insert the Petal nut, then place a fender washer on the uncrushed nut. Then crush it. Doing so will greatly reduce fiberglass cracking and strength of the attachment. If you will be needing to unbolt the attachment, add a dab of adhesive to the crush zones of the Petal nut. Once crushed and cured, the bolt can be removed and you'll not lose the Petal Nut in the back space. GI Edit: The pedal nut will not fall out so edited the use of adhesive. Obvious brain fart!

Looks like a good site...thanks for sharing!

I experimented with these on a scrape of OTT fiberglass for a mod I had in mind. I used a long bolt a couple of nuts and a pair of wrenches to crush them. I believe they are a worthy product for an anchor/mounting point in or outside of an Ollie. I still haven’t completed it, but it’s still on the list Mossey

Just purchased a 4-pack, installed one hidden in the Oliver, our Dodge Ram TV, Chris' GX470 and on my keychain which I misplace on average every other week! Used 3M VHB to mount them in secure hidden locations. Not sure if I need the speaker removal (but will consider it) since if somebody steels my stuff, I'll know it in a heartbeat and would be in pursuit while dialing 911... Thanks for the info! 🙂

Belt and suspenders is never an issue.

See this thread: There are two views: (1) the EMS built into your Oliver is enough, and it's immune to theft and, the contrary group (2) double protection helps some of us sleep better at night, even at the risk of an external protector "growing legs." As noted in the above-referenced thread, I carry a Power Watchdog. It not only provides peace of mind, but it has detected bad wiring at more than one campground pedestal (by just not allowing power to get to the trailer). On the topic of "What are we forgetting": I recommend a quality 50-ft. 30A power cord. I bought ours in case we ended up having to park the trailer further from the pedestal than the stock Oliver 30A cord would reach. I have not yet needed it for that purpose. But, I use the stock Oliver 30A power cable to keep our Hull #1291 plugged in to the 30A receptacle in the shed where I park it. Last fall, I was glad to have that backup 50-footer stowed away in the "basement" of the Oliver when we arrived at our state park campsite, because I found I had absentmindedly left the shorter Oliver cable in the shed when I disconnected it from the shore power receptacle!

I've looked into the PlusNuts and agree they will be a better choice for our Ollie Fiberglass needs. Were you using steel or aluminum ones? What size? source? Thanks for the idea and for posting. GJ

And other critters too.

If you hear clicking like the batteries are trying to charge and then it shuts off and resets everything, then you will have two issues. One is grounding. Looks like someone already mentioned the required grounding plug. The other is the charge controller is pulling too much power. It has to be reset.

With lithium, you need to change a Xantrex setting before trying to use a small generator. The Oliver's converter (charger) will try to draw more power than the small generator can produce. So, stick with the 3500W genny for now. Also, are these inverter-type generators? Industrial jobsite generators may not produce "clean" power. If the power is drifting in and out of spec, the Oliver's electrical management system may start rejecting/accepting that power. That could be the cause of the clicking. Are you getting error codes on the display in the attic? Next, is the 3500W inverter-type generator producing electricity when not connected to the trailer? Test it with any handy electrical device. If not, the generator's circuit breaker might have tripped. If the generator is producing power, look next to the connection between the trailer and genny. As @topgun2 mentioned, some generators (inc. Honda) require a grounding plug inserted into one the the genny 15A outlets before connecting to an Oliver. If the plug isn't present the EMS will cut the power and the display in the attic will show an error code. The clicking under the dinette might be the transfer switch if you have the optional shore line connector on the front right side of your hitch near the propane tanks. What happens if you plug into the optional front shore line connector instead of the one on the driver's side? When connected to the generator does your microwave have power?

‘What if’ the local residents disapprove of your site selection!

That came out great! It almost looks like it came that way. You mentioned that newer cameras came with hoods, but the one on my 2023 did not. This project will be added to my long list of modifications I want to make once it warms up. For material, Kydex might be an option. It is a moldable sheet frequently used in custom holster/sheath making. I've never fiddled with it (I like leather), but it should be a good option. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=kydex+sheet&crid=DUJIHI52K2HN&sprefix=kydex+sheet%2Caps%2C156&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

I forgot a couple of pics of the material used: AND rough measurements - 4" front to back 1 3/4" top down to the sides 2 5/8" from the back to the apex of the curve at the front on the sides.

Love the Starlink setup and am proceeding with the same awning mount along with a second form my Cell antenna. Wondering if there is a post about the camera cover @topgun2 asked about? I find the camera image in daylight less than ideal.

The Natures head sits right on the black tank so the mod should be pretty straight forward. I could see making this change down the road. At the same time, emptying the urine jug in the local toilet is about as easy as it gets. I have considered getting a second jug and cap for those occasions where emptying isn't immediately possible.

Amazon took a while to deliver these, and they came while we were away. These are the correct parts. I bought a set for spare parts. For only $12 for two pair, good to have on hand: Side to Side Adjustable Locking Device for 563/569 Series Blum Tandem Drawer Slide - 2 Pair (4 Pieces) with Installation Screws - Amazon.com

After routing wires and an Ethernet cable under the vanity into the closet for the Starlink system, it was time to finish up the “Cubby Mod”. Used some available 3/16” plywood from another project to fashion a shelf and bulkhead to help organize storage. Rattle-canned a white enamel coating and - poof! One and done: Added 2 extra layers of insulation while in there. Cheers!

Same here... We've never had anything but exceptional service from Mike, Jason, Hannah, and Ryder. Their performance only adds more value to owning an Oliver - giving owners confidence in their rig. For example, last May we were headed down to Mexico and overnight near Tuscon, we discovered the water heater was inop. With no time to file a maintenance ticket, called Mike and we figured out that one or both of the two thermocouples in the Atwood unit could have failed. This troubleshooting was accomplished while driving westbound on I-10 approaching Tucson. Well there's a Camping World just north of the interstate, calling them we learned they've got both the electrical and gas thermos - in luck! Vectored to CW, bought two each of the thermos and replaced them in their parking lot - put the spares in the maintenance kit. One and done thanks to Mike's troubleshooting. Keep up the great service, Oliver! BRAVO ZULU!

Another "arrow" to place in the quiver! While I use a Garmin Inreach mini that automatically transmits my GPS coordinates in the event of an emergency, I can see situations where the "what3words" system would/might come in handy. This is another good place to remind everyone about a presentation that was made a couple of years ago at the Oliver Owner's Rally. This presentation covered the type of information that each of us should have available in the event of an emergency. A copy of the information that would be helpful plus some other ideas can be found IN THIS THREAD. And, for those of us that keep this information with us - now is a good time of year to take a look at it to make sure that the data contained in it is still up to date. Bill

I agree completely GJ! My specialty is making furniture and I've found over the years quality tools are nearly always the best way to go. Typically they are expensive for a reason. Quality materials... quality tools and some quality skill sets! The young man in the video is a bit long winded... but one can tell he knows what he's talking about. I can do some simple wiring, but while I recognize good work when I see it, I am a bit intimidated by doing some of the projects I hear others taking on. I'm sure I could do it once I set my mind to the task... but I'm not there yet. I hope someday to install a dc to dc system so that I can utilize charging benefit while driving from point A to B. I seem to remember JD doing something like that and if I remember correctly it had the main component installed on the Oliver... and not in the truck, which makes a lot of sense to me. The advantage being that the capability stays with the Oliver and not the tow vehicle that is likely to get traded out at points in the future.

Ollietime wrote: I 'm confused, I received my Starlink kit a few days ago and the cable connectors are proprietary, not RJ45. Interesting? I have the original Gen-1 round dishy with the latest Starlink Gen-3 router. Both have RJ45 connectors? But admittedly, I’ve never looked at the Gen-2 rectangular dishy. So I looked on-line and sure enough the Gen-2 has a different connector. Thanks for that comment! No worries though, my installation should still be a good option because Amazon sells the “Aosheng Rectangular Dishy Cable Adapter to RJ45” for $35. It’s not waterproof, but that looks easy enough to address. I’d just use a longer RJ45 cable than the one supplied, and I'd put it under the trailer out of the rain and off the ground. Maybe in a Tupperware box thats notched for the cables. It wouldn't be absolutely watertight, but neither are the other plug-in options. It still beats cutting the Cable. Cheers!

We did this mod without knowing it was already posted! Our exception was utilizing 12lb double sided tape and black 10" locking drawer slides. The tape (from local ACE Hardware) was the thinnest we could find in the weight capacity I was looking for. It's installed on both the slide base and the bottom of the countertop. I was concerned about it floating too high above the base but it closes up nicely and is not noticeable. Not concerned about pulling them off as all the force is lateral and not expecting any weight bearing for the tabletop once slid out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GJMLDPL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I (finally) found blank copies of the forms Patriot shows above. These details plus copies of your driver's license, medical insurance cards, and any health directives that you may have (medical power of attorney, living will, DNR instructions, etc.) should be together. Hopefully these things will never be needed. Bill Medical-History-Forms (2).pdf