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Sorry Group ... worked on this all day yesterday & then got pulled elsewhere today ... it's pretty much finished, but I may make some tweaks. In all, once in place the actual connections and settings was the easy part. Most of the work was in redesigning and rebuilding the tray. As things worked out, I removed the OEM slide out tray but used the tray base (keeping its original dimensions) and welded in a few cross members - one large one in the rear for stability and tiedown bracket, and 4 smaller "'c" channels to carry/spread the weight. Importantly, that allowed me to use the existing bolts & holes (no add'l drilling & tapping). However ... with this setup I had to turn the batteries sideways to fit. The downside to this is 1) no slide out drawer for ease of maintenance, 2) sideways orientation made it a little difficult to reach in to make the connections. That said, since there are only the two batteries, the total number of connections was less and for future servicing they're relatively easy to remove and/or move. Note that with their height, the working area for connections was a little tight, but well doable. Sometime in the future I'd like to re-do the tray ... I'd widen it slightly side-to-side (only need another 1/2 inch! - I got a little tired and lazy & wanted to save some welding) and "oblong" the holes in the base, to fit the existing holes in the floor of the compartment. This would allow me to be able to turn 90 degrees (from shown) & have the lugs of both facing outward & side-by-side ... that'll make connecting and servicing much easier, even without the sliding drawer. Re-setting of the BlueSky Solar charging via the IPN Remote (unique to the earlier 2014/15 models) was straight forward, flipping the PD charger/controller from AGM to LI was super easy (accessible after removing the faceplate of the control unit), and (as mentioned earlier) the 7-PIN charge circuit had already been disabled ... so, ALL DONE! turned the breakers back on and, viola! ... it all worked! Now, just want to let it work for a few days. A few related notes: Kevin at EPOCH Batteries was very helpful ... placed a call on Thursday mid-morning (just before I started tearing everything apart - wanted to confirm the BlueSky Solar charge settings & had a couple of misc questions) ... he returned my call within about 20 minutes, was patient, and happy to share knowledge and advise on appropriate concerns. By the way, I'll mention here that documentation from EPOCH for the batteries is virtually nonexistent - they seem to depend on their online community for FAQs and group responses. Didn't bother me much though as, again, the swap out was pretty straight forward ... my call to EPOCH was really for confirmation and confidence building more than anything else. The EPOCH Bluetooth app works OK but could use some refinement. Each battery has its own Bluetooth connection, each battery is queried and displayed separately - a side-by-side of both would be more convenient. The app offers a minute-by-minute history of status of each, but after a short while you'll need to scroll extensively to get to the most recent data - that gets old really fast. That said, the app interface provided some very good info. An upgrade, of course (suggested by the EPOCH folks). would be to install a shunt in conjunction with a remote monitor (Victron perhaps). Related, since the app is Bluetooth to the batteries (using my iPhone), the data feed & status indicators drops once your about 20 feet from the trailer - I am worried that I'll not be able to see it from the driver seat of my truck ... still not a huge deal for me as I check the app only when in or near the trailer anyway. Oh ... and the OEM tiedown straps were too short. I replaced them with a simple ratchet strap ... it works but is not quite as "elegant" as I'd like. I'm gonna shop Amazon for a better strap setup. In all, I think I accomplished what I'd set to do - simple battery swap with no add'l components needed. The battery tray rebuild was more than I'd hoped, but otherwise I'm happy. I can appreciate that some add'l componentry and the conveniences that would provide, but I'll save that for another time. Questions? Oh ... and ... thanks, everyone, for your guidance and insights on this thread ... I've really grown to love our Oliver community over the past 3 years. Cheers! -Dan

Does this count???

Back in the day, Oliver used a tiny part of the facility. (We are #12.) I think it's actually measured in acres. When we picked up our trailer, it was parked in part of the very empty floor. We are so delighted to see the parking lot filled, and space used, when we visit. A very forward thinking family. Not to mention what they have done for the Hohenwald employment opportunities. In my humble opinion, it's been a great symbiosis, between the Oliver family, and the local economy. Most of the current Oliver folks don't know me, but even with a 2008, I'm treated with kindness and respect, on a timely basis. I'm sure @bugeyedriver and @ScubaRx remember the old days. We're a few of the original 50. It's fun to reminisce, but even more fun to see the growth of our favorite trailer. Old school, fuzzy photos, below. I'm so very proud of their progress. Great company culture. Great trailers. We took a chance when they were pretty much brand new. But, my engineer husband and I know quality when we see it.16 years in, we are happy campers.

It's the same with my battery jump box. Sharing is caring! Mossey

Lots of good ideas and thoughts on this. Thanks. Just for conversation I will be a devils advocate "lightly" regarding tire inflation for both the TV and Ollie. But allow me to digress for a brief moment. Awhile back on an automotive forum, doesn't really matter which one but might have been a Tundra forum, there was a somewhat heated discussion regarding a gentleman who had gone from standard P rated tires to LT tires on his truck and asked what PSI should they be run. Sensible question but one fellow ripped the guy up on side and down the other claiming he should be running his tires full bore tilt at 80 PSI or risk a blowout and kill everybody on the highway. The answer struck me as a bit extreme given the research I had done on the subject to this point. Effectively it is true running tires at 80 PSI will reduce less heat build up due to less flexing and perhaps increasing gas mileage along the way, but is this the only safety factor of the equation to be considered? I have my doubts. What about braking, handling, maneuvering especially if in an emergency situation. At 80 PSI on lighter vehicles such as half ton trucks or Olivers there will not be enough tread on the road (the way the engineers and manufacturers designed the tire to operate). The tire chalk test bears this out too. Cutting to the chase, imagine having to swerve out of the way because some reckless driver runs a red light in front of you. Cornering and braking will not be optimum with over inflated tires and it compounds exponentially if towing a trailer. I'm certainly no expert on the subject but believe much depends on the individual vehicles and trailers and tires. What I can add from personal experience on a trip this past Sept from MT to southern UT with new LT tires. Ran my TV at 50 PSI and Oliver at 45 PSI. Truck being a tad bit heavier and loaded in the back with gear and tongue weight of trailer. Kept a close eye on heat and tire pressure build up with the TST TPMS and both did fine and this was driving through some 100º heat in SLC late afternoon. Thankfully no emergency maneuvering on the trip to test my theory. And for sure don't go up the gravel road to Green River Lakes in the Wind River Range with 80 PSI on either of your rigs. 🤣

Don't be nervous. The Yamaha will be fine. Just get the grounding plug and adjust setting #28 like @rich.dev said. I do it through the wall control panel rather than the app. I've found some odd behavior when using the app to change that setting.

FYI: We bring our Honda EU2000i w/grounding plug if we expect several days of cloudy weather on a given trip. However, with our 340watts/roof-mounted panels, 200w Renogy portable modules, and 300amp-hrs of BBs in the bank, the Honda hasn't seen the light of day since we've had our OTT (purchased used in MAR23). @Wandering Sagebrush - Definitely don't think you're missing anything at all. We now tow in with the fridge in the DC mode since we've installed the Victron DC/DC charger - prior to that we ran it in the LPG mode. It's nice now being able to tow with the LPG valves closed. The DC/DC charger is dumping 27 -29amps into the BBs plus whatever the roof modules are generating while towing, so whenever we decide to stop for the day, we've got high SOC (usually 100%). You'll find, like us, that when boon docking in colder WX, your furnace will consume the majority of your stored Amp-hrs. If your AGMs are type 27s. Just noticed you've got 640amp-hrs of storage! You're GENSET will likely stay in the TV during the majority of your trips no matter the weather conditions. 300amp-hrs seems like the sweet spot for our style of camping off grid. Cheers,

The easy answer: Because 1 is none, and 2 is ONE!

LOVE IT! He tooted.

WHAT! How on earth could THAT happen? We're here - aren't we? 😁

I caught this on FB today. Oliver crew is celebrating the 1500th Ollie to roll off the line. I'm very happy for everyone at Oliver. I wonder who will get this hull #?

First Ollies displayed at the Austin, TX RV Expo, courtesy of new dealer PrincessCraft RV. Nice to be able to come and look at the new 2024 model.

I have a 30A male to 15A female connector along with a home outlet circuit tester. These testers are much cheaper than the 30A tester, and I already had one. This allows me to check proper wiring at the 30A outlet in the pedestal before plugging in the trailer. In theory the inboard EMS does these tests, but why plug in if you already know the pole is incorrectly wired? I do not use an external EMS/protector.

If you have the Xantrex inverter I believe you have to change the AC input setting, that would be # 28 setting in the Xantrex FXC Control app. Your 1000W generator at 110V is only approx. 9A, the Xantrex (my 3000W anyway) is factory set to 25A because the breaker size for the inverter is 25A and the main power supply is 30A which is greater than the breaker size. So when you connect to a generator or house receptacle that supplies lower amps, you need to adjust setting #28 down to match the current incoming power supply. Or like @dewdev said, shut off the circuit breaker to your inverter.

SeaDawg uses a 1000 watt generator to charge their batteries. a neutral ground plug is REQUIRED. I use a 2000 watt generator (with the neutral ground plug) and I can run my AC. My AC has the reduced voltage starter installed. When using my generator, I need to shut off the circuit breaker to the inverter because it takes to much power when trying to run the AC. My hull # is 10 earlier than your hull #.

We have used Campendium for years at no cost. Recently, Chris paid for an account for additional benefits. Last thing you need is a pass from some app/website to get into another! Looks like the common scheme to get new accounts by linking prospects to some other service. Like the 100s of reseller websites that sell your going through them to buy insurance!!! Buyer beware and stay away! OMG, this world could do without prostitutes and the marketing profession which is far WORSE! At least with the prostitute, you know what you are buying!

When I get to Talihina OK, I have 8 miles of steep fire road to haul up Ollie. The road is graded (sometimes) and I am dodging rocks and bigger holes along the way. So airing up and down is a routine that I do twice a summer each way. But you are right, I have allowed others to use it far more often each year than the Buffalo Mountain Road drill I use it on. But the real benefit is having it in the truck when going off road. Again, mostly for others use...... GJ

GJ, when I read the OP’s statement that the battery tray would have to be removed to accommodate his new battery, my thought was the same as your original comment. I’m sorry you took it personal and my response compelled you to make a change, that was not my intent. I was actually referring to the differential cost of available batteries in today’s market in an attempt to convey that the choice of battery is a personal preference, and cost is oftentimes an irrelevant factor in achieving one’s goals. Your very rational assessment regarding battery securement based on personal experience and professional engineering background is spot on, as was your closing statement, and much appreciated. However, you lost me at “high amplitude multiple directional accelerations”! ps: edited my response, as well, thanks!

I just ordered a set of these a couple days ago for Ollie-Haus. Our hinges are the new style of course so install should be quick and painless. We've experienced the wind catching the door and quickly realized we needed the extra level of "assist" for protecting the door assembly.

I purchased two LiTime 230Ah batteries last summer, and added a transfer switch to enable use of the A/C on lithium when underway or at the storage facility; no more breaking out the genny for these brief stays! My former battery bank consisted of four 6V Trojan T105s, definitely an upgrade with a significant increase in useable power and huge reduction in weight! The Epoch 460Ah featured in Will’s video is very impressive being ‘all inclusive’, but at a cost double (based on current sale pricing) that of my LiTime purchase. That said, the saying ‘you get what you pay for’ probably rings true. Having all of the ‘bells and whistles’ in a single package may be appealing and in fact necessary for some, but not for me. I also installed a Victron SmartShunt for battery monitoring via the VictronConnect app, along with applicable fuses and bus bar; having individual components is appealing to me. I especially like that the LiTimes are a good fit in the battery tray, a convenience not worth sacrificing! I would suggest adding a platform for proper weight distribution if one decides to remove the tray; the fiberglass battery compartment bottom alone may not be supportive enough.

Over the past 16 years, I've been taken to many nooks and crannies in that building. It's so vast that you really need a golf cart to easily get around. I've even spent a couple of nights inside a while back when they were doing service on my Hull #050. It's kinda creepy inside it at night when you think you're all alone and yet you hear voices beyond and above you. Turned out it was something completely normal and not evil boo hags or haints, apparently the resident poltergeists keep those away. I have never asked what percentage is not being used, but now that service has left for the new service center away from the factory there is that area that could be utilized. I would guess they are using about 2/3-3/4 of their floor space.

Electric Floor Warming Mat would fix that! On our OE2, there is a plug just between the bathroom entrance and the wardrobe. Plugin and enjoy! At least until it becomes an electrifying experience. Maybe a low voltage water proof rated one would be a safer choice. Or you could use it to stand your hair up for a Halloween frightful hair style. 🙂

In answer to my own question, I don't think I would. I love the size of the LE2 and I am still in a bit of sticker shock after purchasing it. However, if Oliver added a full size head? hmmm. Tempting.

I thought we did.....😊

Well, if we all pitched in...... 😁

Great suggestion, where possible! May as well look at filling up the back seat of the Crew Cab with heavy pantry or tools. Driving slowly with flashers to a better location is one to be sure to keep top of mind. Maybe fire off the rear view trailer camera and monitor any traffic impacts the situation may generate while slowly retreating to a safer location. Maybe pressurizing your spare tire to it's max pressure to take on all the load it can. Maybe consider the condition of your spare tire? Maybe it should be mounted on the opposite side if it is old but pretty and the other side has newer tires. What else? GJ

I will air down to about 35 psi on the trailer if it is really nasty potholed rutted for a long distance. But folks need to be aware you have to air back up immediately when the speeds get back up to normal. Sometimes it may be hard to find a trailer sized pullout when you get back to a highway…. Keep that in mind too. John Davies Spokane WA

I have to think this has been many a campfire conversations between Oliver owners. Is there a practical size limit of a trailer constructed in the manner of our Oliver? Could Oliver build a 30' trailer? The Airstream Flying Cloud 23 FB weighs about the same as a Legacy Elite II.

You purchased the model with the Victron comms: 12V 300Ah V2 Heated Bluetooth LiFePO4 Battery - Epoch Essentials (epochbatteries.com) Wondering what that does for you, that adding the Victron SmartShunt would not do? I already have this shunt and their smart Bluetooth dongle for communication purposes. This Epoch model is also 300AH without the Victron comms but slightly smaller, so thinking it would fit in the OTT OEM battery tray as-is. Are there other features that made you decide on the higher-end and slightly larger model vs. this one? 12V 300Ah Heated & Bluetooth LiFePO4 Battery - Epoch Essentials (epochbatteries.com) I just read your comment above again. It appears you ordered the smaller model but was supplied the V2 model instead since it was in stock, in time for your trip. Still wondering if the V2 model is worth it considering fit. Other V2 benefits?

I agree with Rivernerd. I bought a 30A female to 15 amp male adaptor. Have not used it in 3 years but good to have it and not need it. I also bought a 30 foot RV 30 amp cord so I can extend the Oliver provided cord for long distance to the power pedestal. You will need a adaptor in that case to plug both cords together. I use the extra cord at home because the distance from my OTT to the 30 amp plug at the house is a little longer than the Oliver provide cord will reach. Have not needed it yet at a campground but I take it camping just in case I need it.

This surely is a milestone. Great work Oliver!

That would make for an incredible skating rink. Well, if space isnt an issue, then that just leaves the plug costs and a viable market.

Since that price is for the bare tool only, I doubt it's a bunch cheaper. Since I'm not an old Milwaukee guy, just a Milwaukee guy and do not own an DeWalt tools, I did buy a Viair several years back. And the only time I needed it was to help a neighboring camper air up his bicycle tires. Mossey

The battery(ies) could be subject to bouncing around in there? 😬

Ron: I caringly rewrote my above thoughts at least a dozen time specifically to be kind and respectful. It was also made in the hopes to highlight that the apparent intent to install larger litho's without the supporting and securing battery box tray should not be executed. The idea of having litho's directly sitting in the battery bay may work for a given owner's use. But certainly would likely become a serious safety hazard should their use change. I learned just how rough the Yukon Territory and some Alaska "corduroy roads" are two summer ago. For strictly highway use, unsupported and unrestrained litho's may work just fine. But what happens when that trailer gets sold, and the new owner is unaware of such an install's vulnerabilities? As a Registered Mechanical Engineer I am ethically required to not be silent when I can foresee a significant life and fire safety hazard. Having that much weight not fully restrained and/or supported in a battery box of a mobile application would be a problem. Especially for a mobile application that will be subject to high amplitude multiple directional accelerations. That said, your suggestion for a load spreading and battery restraining "platform" certainly is a suggestion in the right direction. I think it is a great suggestion. But from the perspective of respect and understanding, was it appropriate for you to suggest it? From "The knife cuts both ways" perspective; the answer is no. But from the higher perspective of Oliver Safety and caring for our family members: I think we can agree that both our intents were spot on. GJ

There’s quite a few being loaded out for dealers each week. I read somewhere, maybe Facebook, that the first LE2 arrived at the new dealership in Petersburg Indiana the other day and was sold in 24 hours!🤩

GJ yes, the cable is 1.5M or 5 FT. Not sure on waterproof, not advertised as such though the case is a 2-piece plastic tight snap fit where a moist location is likely OK. I don't see that you would need to run it to the propane tanks. Just connect it to your charger under the dinette and it should work. A taller location is better than low and closer. I don't see why it would not work anywhere under the dinette though. Mine is sitting on the rear of the batteries. I can read it while driving, read it from my LR window 60 FT away with a Tuff Shed blocking line-of-sight. I can also read it from my truck, when unhitched parked a car length or more in front of the Oliver. If you do want to mount it further, they sell Victron VE.Direct extension cables and on page 3 of this post I have a link to a $6 terminal kit where you can make your own extension cables (and drill only enough to pass a thin cable). Best reception would be to mount the dongle in an upper interior cabinet.

Cool. Cuz I'm 1504. Can't wait.

Regarding the wet bath/dry bath perspective, we quickly came to the same conclusion as others have. And It's the first thing I bring up when someone says, "I won't have a wet bath". I point out that I don't camp out in the bath, or use it for a library. Ninety-nine percent of our day is spent someplace other than the bathroom. The fact that it's called a wet bath really doesn't change much about the way I use it compared to a similar dry bath. For us it was a non-conversation, just something to be aware of. On the note of how much RV real estate is valued at, I think Oliver knocked it out of the park with how efficiently they met all the needs in such a compact camper. Like someone pointed out, everything has trade-offs, and I think the design of the Oliver campers makes the most gain possible for the trade-offs they chose to work with.

My wife likes suspenders. So, I think we've decided to go with this set. If I'm thinking clearly, it will allow me external surge protection for both 50 and 30 amp hookups.

See this thread: There are two views: (1) the EMS built into your Oliver is enough, and it's immune to theft and, the contrary group (2) double protection helps some of us sleep better at night, even at the risk of an external protector "growing legs." As noted in the above-referenced thread, I carry a Power Watchdog. It not only provides peace of mind, but it has detected bad wiring at more than one campground pedestal (by just not allowing power to get to the trailer). On the topic of "What are we forgetting": I recommend a quality 50-ft. 30A power cord. I bought ours in case we ended up having to park the trailer further from the pedestal than the stock Oliver 30A cord would reach. I have not yet needed it for that purpose. But, I use the stock Oliver 30A power cable to keep our Hull #1291 plugged in to the 30A receptacle in the shed where I park it. Last fall, I was glad to have that backup 50-footer stowed away in the "basement" of the Oliver when we arrived at our state park campsite, because I found I had absentmindedly left the shorter Oliver cable in the shed when I disconnected it from the shore power receptacle!

We took those same two items (a quality pressure regulator with gauge and an inline water filter) with us when taking delivery in November, 2022. We used them at every campground stop on the way back to Idaho. I put the pressure regulator on the "upstream" side, with the water filter immediately downstream of the regulator, then a short length of hose to connect to the city water inlet. FWIW, I noted that water pressure varied significantly at the places we camped.

Yes to both. IMO the water pressure regulator is important as you never know what water pressure is going to be at a campground.

Dennis and Melissa The Anderson link you provided seem a lot of $$$. You really do need to get the blocks to go under the electric jacks so the jacks are not out really long. As topgun2 said you can cut some 2x6 wood for using to go under the wheels to level the trailer when on camp sites that are not level. You will also want to get some wheel chocks. I guess if the $$$ do not bother you then your suggested link items gives you all the items you would need. I have the Proven Lock system to lock up the bull-dog hitch. I recommend it. It cost a little more than what you are proposing but is far more secure. Also, I did get the Oliver shower curtain. Their curtain not only keeps the compost toilet area dry but it can also extend to in front of the door so you can leave the bathroom door open during a shower. I like OTT shower curtain a lot and IMO works better than anything that I could have installed myself. What battery (or solar) package did you decide on? Happy camping. Time will go by fast now that you have ordered.

Same. That closet keeps all the clutter out of the living space and the TV. I wouldn't do it any other way.

This was exactly what went through my mind before buying the Oliver. My wife and I went back and forth on it for a month before deciding that we just don't spend that much time in the bathroom. Sure, a dry bath, and one I can actually stand up in, would be great, but the differences in quality between the Oliver and the only other contender out there in my opinion, the AS, was like night and day. The AS I was looking at was the 27-foot Globetrotter. It marked all the items on the list, but the build quality was suspect and the hull, although pretty, seemed like something out of nightmares for those parked under tree limbs and suffering the occasional hailstorm. I honestly think the Oliver already is in Airstream territory, if not in fact beyond it. A 27-foot dry bath Oliver would be so far beyond AS, they couldn't catch up.

The dry-bath would be incentive to get into a larger Oliver - but we wouldn't be interested in a 30-footer. We had a 31' AS and although comfortable inside, too limiting for our particular camping style. OTT would get our attention If they offered a dry bath 27' - because any larger of a rig wouldn't fit in the Man Cave... HA! Those "Plugs" that OTT uses to form the hulls are not a cheap date, just like @topgun2 mentioned. Offering a slightly larger dry-bath rig with other amenities would definitely worm OTT into Airstream market space - 100% concur w/ @HDRider's comment.

The wet bath was the thing that kept me walking away from Oliver. We were very close to purchasing an Airstream with a dry bath, but the better quality of the Oliver was worth not getting a dry bath. My thinking is a larger unit would put Oliver squarely in Airstream territory with a much better product.

We did this mod without knowing it was already posted! Our exception was utilizing 12lb double sided tape and black 10" locking drawer slides. The tape (from local ACE Hardware) was the thinnest we could find in the weight capacity I was looking for. It's installed on both the slide base and the bottom of the countertop. I was concerned about it floating too high above the base but it closes up nicely and is not noticeable. Not concerned about pulling them off as all the force is lateral and not expecting any weight bearing for the tabletop once slid out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GJMLDPL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I finally got a response to my ticket from 10/20/22 yesterday. The request for a replacement decal was denied with a polite note explaining that the tire pressure on the trailer at time of production met the production tire specifications. They recommend I consult OEM tire manufacturers specifications for the loaded trailer weight. Which is exactly what many of us have already done, and the reason I have been running 50 psi since Delivery Day. The ticket was closed.