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My ALCAN springs arrived yesterday (Wednesday) and my RV tech installed them yesterday PM. His torque wrench failed so I brought him mine this morning so he can finish up the job. He liked the ALCAN springs and there were ZERO issues installing them. He also confirmed that at least one set of the original Dexter springs were starting to flatten out. Meaning (to me) they were on the way to failure. I will also state that the original springs had only about 5000 highway miles on them and ZERO off road miles. We depart tomorrow (Friday) for a six week, 5300 mile trek around the US so I'll report back how they ride. I did lower my PSI in the tires to 48 PSI to help soften whatever uptick in stiffness there may (or may not) be with the new springs. I'll also report what difference (if any) there is on additional lift the new springs may have provided. Paul (2 HOBOS) hull 414

Unfortunately I have had the right rear spring break last year, but with approximately 80,00 miles on said spring I’m not dissatisfied with its service life. You can get an replacement spring overnighted from etrailer, however I have had good experience with St. Louis spring. They will custom make whatever you want, in the past they fabricated two springs for a 52 year old boat trailer to my specs (1 one extra leaf,1 inch increased arch)& I was very happy with their service.

If you have two tanks, and the valve is set to auto, it will switch to the full tank. If you are completely out, the heater will shut off and throw an error code referencing the gas supply interruption.

If not, here is a great article from Jason Essary: Decalcification - Hard Water Buildup - Loss of Water Pressure (olivertraveltrailers.com)

Let's assume there is not a kink since that would likely be the worst outcome and would have been observed by the prior owner as well as OTT. The next thing I would look at is more clogs. These systems are great when they are kept up, but left in storage, mold and algae grow in the water lines and tanks as well as accumulated dirt and grime. It looks like you cleaned some of the lines and the faucets, but I would skip that and disconnect the service line where it feeds the bathroom and with bucket or large cup in hand, or a clamped hose end to extend the line outside, turn on the water pump to see if you get a marked improvement.

Whistle while you work.... and I will not finish the rest of that tune we whistled as kids in the 1960's, as Army Brats in Germany. When fossil hunting the Badlands of Nebraska... if something nice was discovered washing out of the white gumbo... I would whistle as my rock pick worked around it to wrap and stick into my slung over my shoulder pack. My wife knew I found something when I was whistling a tune. "Yesterday" by the Beatles was always popular for me to carry a tune. Now our Blue Heelers respond to a whistle with a pattern that suits ME. Not them. They have no sense of a good tune, but from a distance a whistle could mean: Food is now being served for Man or Beast. We are packing up the camp and leaving. Where are you? Over here, I found something interesting. Gold Panning... dig a deeper hole and whistle "Working in a Coal Mine..." I know of no Travel Trailer whistling tunes. Maybe someone can walk and whistle at the same time. It is a good skill set...

Now that we have realized this BD hitch is a 5000 LB Class-3 hitch with a 7000 LB Class-4 OEM-mounted label, it really has nothing to do with what was designed for an LE-I or any OTT model. As @ScubaRx has verified, all travel trailers manufactured by OTT since 2015 have specified the 7000 LB Bulldog. OTT did not install the wrong trailer part. They installed a DB hitch mislabeled by Bulldog. The question is, did OTT receive just one (1) of these defective (mis-labeled) hitches, or a few? They could be on any 2018 +/- OTT trailer. Also, what was the defective batch size? Besides OTT, what other trailer manufacturers could have received mislabeled units? OTT management should not only be monitoring this thread. They should pay for ALL of @rideadeuce's expenses and some and pay to have this defective unit shipped back to OTT as evidence. In the end, Bulldog should pay. OTT MUST make Bulldog aware of this immediately, to limit OTT liability. DB must trace this unit by manufacturing batch number and communicate a recall to all possible BD consumers.

And - you get cold until you feed that heater with more propane.😬 If you chose to NOT use the automatic feature on the propane valve then you will need to simply move the lever on the valve from the tank that is empty to the one that has propane in it - this is what I do. Then, the next time you are near a propane supplier - get that empty tank refilled! Bill

To @Jason Foster’s point, simply remove the faucet/shower head from the pullout hose at the sink and check the flow at the unobstructed hose end. This may help to determine if a clogged head is the problem.

Interesting. I have not ever heard of filtering drinking water to a toilet. The previous owner must have had some really really nasty water that broke the toilet. Or maybe their pets like filtered drinking water. GJ

Definitely this and as soon as possible. Someone out there is hauling a potentially loaded down trailer with an under-spec hitch and, unlike Rideadeuce, the failure could be catastrophic.

All of this is a function of how cold and how high you have the temp set inside. I seldom use the heat because I do not camp much during the winter. However, during my two months fly fishing trips in the summer, I routinely only use one 20 pound tank every 6 to 8 weeks. Most of that is running the fridge and on rare occasion heating shower water. If you move the lever to point towards one or the other of your tanks and close the other tank, the "window" under the lever will tell you if you've got propane (green will show) or if you are empty (red will show). However, the key is to close the tank that you are not using. This prevents the valve from "automatically" switching from one tank to the other. Yes, the automatic feature will still try, but, since the second tank is closed, no propane will flow out of it until you open that tank's valve. When the tank in use finally runs out, the "window" should turn red. Simply move the lever towards the other tank and open that tank's valve (the window should turn green). If you do nothing - ie leave the lever pointed in either direction and leave both tank's valve open, the automatic valve will automatically switch to the tank with propane in it no matter which direction that lever is pointed. Therein lies the problem. Because at this point it is up to you to remember to check your tanks for how much propane is in them such that you don't totally run out without realizing it. Hope this helps! Bill

Yep - that is why I don't use the "automatic" feature often. However, if I know that I'm running low on that first tank and the weather is not (or predicted to not be) decent, then I'll place the lever in the automatic position. This is so that I will not have to get up in the middle of the night when its cold or raining in order to switch those tanks. Bill

If I remember correctly (!) the reason some people chose not to use the auto-switch is that they might not be aware when the first tank is out of gas so to speak and then they can be surprised when the second one runs out.

My wife & I are the proud original owners of hull #219, recently we experienced a suburban furnace failure., I removed the furnace & replaced the sail and limit switches & took the furnace to a local rv dealer “Colman country campers” in Hartford Il, to bench test the furnace. They had it 2 weeks! I never authorized repairs but they put in a “new” sail switch. I was charged 2 hours labor @ $120 an hour plus the switch, when I got the furnace back I disassembled it & discovered that not only did they put in the wrong switch but it was apparently used. There’s obviously more to the story, but this post is getting long, I just want people to be wary of shady rv dealers & I look forward to having a Oliver authorized repair facility near me. Steve

Just FYI: The new springs raised the trailer about 3/4". Not noticeable unless you actually measure. My service tech was really impressed with the ALCAN springs once he had them sitting side-by-side with the Dexter springs. In fact, another customer commented how the one set of old springs had flattened out. My tech commented that was the reason I was having them changed out. I'll report on ride after I have a few hundred miles on them.

Corrosion between dis-similar metal is common in the boating world. Very common to find severe corrosion between, say, a 6061 aluminum mast pad or hardware pedistal and a bronze halyard winch if the two are bolted directly together. A thin layer of plastic between the two virtually eliminates this problem, particularly if you use an anti-sieze on bolt (typically stainless) threads. I use lanolin anti-sieze commonly found in boating stores. My favorite barrier material is easy and cheap to make. Prepare a smooth surface with mold release wax, lay a section of a light fiberglass cloth (say an 8 oz) and saturate with a laminating epoxy such as West Systems or System Three. You now have a sheet of flexible barrier material which can be cut to size as needed.

@Lisa Rae I think that judging the water flow by eye is very subjective. To accurately compare the bath and kitchen water flow you need a bucket and a timer. Start with each faucet and run hot and cold water separately into the bucket for 15 seconds, if the bucket is large enough. Then measure the accumulated water and compare the hot and cold water in each bucket. Are both the hot and cold water flows nearly the same? The next steps will require removing each component and testing against the baseline measurements. If you are happy with the water flow at the kitchen sink, move onto the bathroom. Note 1: There may be restrictive aerators in each faucet. For example, we have a .75 gallon aerator in the bath faucet but there is a 1.5 gallon aerator in the separate shower head. Our OEM kitchen faucet aerator can’t be changed. Note 2: The black fitting behind the toilet is a filter, not a pressure regulator. Mossey

@Jason Fosterthanks for the link, I will try that. @RonbrinkI did that but have no frame of reference if the flow was good or not but I guess if the pump stays on constantly and doesn't surg that might tell me if the faucet/shower head is the problem. If it is that won't explain why the water flow to the toilet is low, but one thing at a time. Thanks!

Prior to upgrading to LFPs and installing a dedicated transfer switch to enable operation of the A/C via the new battery bank, the DuroMax was primarily used for A/C (with Micro-Air Easy Start) during lunch/rest stops and off-grid overnight stays when traveling. Now it is mostly used for A/C, as needed; fueled by a dedicated 30# propane tank carried under cap in the TV. However, as with most small generators the A/C is temporarily turned off to use the microwave, otherwise it is a sufficient power source for all else, including charging the batteries. To date I have not changed the Xantrex’s setting 28 to lower charging amps as many suggest, but may give it a try to see if there is any difference.

I like donuts, but donut don't like me.

This sentence describes me to the core in everything I do.

When people ask me how I like my LE2, my canned response is, "I Love it, If you can live with the size, you won't find a better built trailer." I point out that Oliver makes two sizes and this is the bigger one. We have the king bed so when people look inside all they see is the bed and then the small kitchen/dinette area. It is functional but if we have to stay inside for bad weather it gets pretty small pretty fast. We're considering a larger trailer for when we stay for an extended time but for a month or less on the road you can't get a better unit. I wish they offered a larger unit, but alas, I expect it is no closer to reality then when I first asked about a bigger unit back in 2020. I'm told that it costs millions to R&D a new mold from drawing board to production. IMO, at this point Oliver is producing some of the best trailers on the market in their size and class. You can't beat it for the money.

In the video you included, I have the same water pressure in the bathroom as you have in your kitchen sink, so definitely not normal. You might have kink in a hose somewhere.

I still don't believe it fits. First, the Oliver in my opinion IS essential when you compare it to other worse built, more expensive trailers. It is desirable, but only by a few in the know people who want something that is built well. People who want luxury look for the extravagant and there are plenty of those around. Most of them are being sold by their original owners because they were actually junk. Oliver isn't difficult to obtain and, in my opinion, isn't very expensive. So, is an Oliver trailer a self-indulgence? Maybe, but only after having some real crap over the years. If I had just bought this trailer instead of the handful of other ones, then I would have saved a whole lot of money. Compared to that, the Oliver is really cheap.

For those who use your generator in the rain, for the most part, it will be fine. However, there might be times when water drips down onto the positive and the neutral causing an arc. This has happened to me several times. The first was a non-issue because I saw the sparking and shut it down. The second and last time, it caught the plastic housing on fire and melted my extension cord. If the generator says it isn't equipped for use in the rain, follow the directions. It might just save you something.

As I said earlier, only the Elites made between 2007 and 2009 were delivered with the 5000 pound couplers. The next Elite built by Oliver was Hull #073 delivered in 2015 and was equipped with a 7000 pound coupler. The current standard OEM for both the Elite and Elite II is the 7000 pound coupler.

P.S. I know that I've said this before - but - If you like donuts - Donut Country, GPS - 35.86087, -86.39112 is pretty good. Bill

It's the number in the casting that is most important. The strength is in the casting. The label gets added after casting of course, and after the sleeve and latch mechanism is mounted, and even later after painting. Since it is the label that was added incorrectly, btw, makes this a BD defect and not an OTT assembly mistake, since upon installation the label would be most apparent, and no technician would think they'd have to check two manufacturer markings to be certain of application. Thank goodness ours has 7000 LB on the casting and label. This is in a way a one-off defect, but what is unknown is the batch size. Did Bulldog make just one of these (likely not), or did they produce 100s like this in their manufacturing process? Bulldog must act quickly and communicate a recall.

The last address I have for CGI and the place where they did my ceramic coating is: 1639 Richland Richardson Road, Murfreesboro, TN and the GPS coordinates for the property are : 35.85165, -86.28862 But, note that this exact GPS location is for the RV that is sitting on the property and it is located 75 yards or so to the west of the frontage road. On Google Maps the current satellite image does not show the building that is used for the majority of the work done during the coating - that building is now located to the west of the RV in what appears (on Google Maps) to be a plowed field. Again, make sure that this is the current location/address that the guys are using. Bill

You could mount a receiver in the corner of the front basket, to drop the handle of a golf umbrella into when it rains. ☺️

Make sure that you get SPECIFIC instruction as to the location. They are not very far out of the center of Murfreesboro but they are on a rural road and it is fairly easy to miss the "entrance" into the property. A good look at Google maps with the Satellite view will help. Tell the guys "hi" for me and see ya at the Rally! Bill

That is why I put my pair of dual-fuel Champion generators in the bed of my pickup, under the truck canopy, when it is raining. Even though I don't have the optional front 30A power connection, I have a 50-ft. 30A power cord that will reach the 30A connection on the driver's side of the Elite II.

I would be more concerned (depending on ambient conditions) with the generator overheating with a tight fitting cover. Something like an umbrella like cover vs an enclose would be my preference.

Very nice! I watched some of their videos on youtube it's quite impressive to say the least. They also sponsored this years Owners' Rally.

There is another thread “Upgraded shower and bathroom access hatch” but I am starting this thread to address the access hatch only. The other thread primarily addresses the shower valve modifications and some questions about the marine hatch modification are going unanswered. Moderators, remove or add to this thread if you need to or direct me to another thread with more information about this modification. @mossemi @MAX Burner @NCeagle @Going and others that have made the modification: 1. has anyone installed the hatch opening to the right? 2. I see that Mike relocated his water pump switch and light to the upper left front on the vanity. What have others done? 3. Has anyone found a lighted switch to use for the water pump switch? 4. Did you bed the frame with butyl? 5. Can the door be easily removed from the frame? 6. Did anyone use something other than the 23.9x13.9 SEAFLO marine hatch? 7. Mike mentions using a hole saw in reverse to cut the radiused corners (@mossemiis this correct ?) What did you use to cut the straight lines?

The flow to our bath faucet/shower head in Hull #1291 is about the same as the flow to the kitchen sink. If the flow from your flexible bath faucet/shower head hose (with the faucet/shower head removed) is not about the same as the robust flow into the kitchen sink shown in your video, then you likely have flow restriction somewhere between the kitchen and bath. If so, my next step would be to try the decalcification process referenced by Jason Foster above.

That's our thought. We've talked about it, many times. Over the past 16 seasons, how would one of the others fared? Rubber roofs, interior rot, leaks, etc. I'm good with what I own, 16 seasons in. It was expensive, yes. The longevity, yes. Problem free? What? A few. Nothing major. In it for the long run.

And - while you are under there - it might be a good idea to put some insulation on those water lines. Insulation on the hot line will help keep the water hotter and insulation on the cold line ( and hot) will help prevent freezing of the lines in below 30 degree weather. Bill

@Jim and Frances Great topic! I carry a generator and use this gentent when needed. It’s completely a 💯 flawed thinking anyone can run a generator in wet rainy weather or worse a down pour and think you are not risking exposure to electrocution. I have a genttent for my eu3200i which packs up neatly in its own case. Gentent has a size to accommodate most if not all small generators. I have found their products to be very well made and stellar customer service. These covers do allow the heat and exhaust to escape as well. I don’t think you would be disappointed with their products. I always carry our Suitcase 3200i as I never know when I may need it. I like options! 😊 Safe Travels and Safe Camping! https://www.gentent.com/portable-generators/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQOuiS48IwDd6Ba6rANslI6McAtpX8x_2MgSv5Aw_t6Vit76GDP6irRoCmCoQAvD_BwE

We used the same one that @topgun2 refers to: The "O-ring" keeps paper goods nice and dry inside when the wet-head is being used as a shower... Here's a pic of our install/mod: Cheers!

Good eye. The sticker and the mold identification are inconsistent. The sticker has a bit missing and some black overspray from previous year's touch-up. I believe that the wrong sticker was applied to the Class III 2 in coupler. Which also adds to the intrigue on how this all happened. I tried to take some better pictures not sure if they show up any better. But I did find a new sticker picture for the Model 3B and it was for the 7k coupler (last picture). So looks like there is a mismatch on identification. Appreciate your input. Best, Mike

I was wondering about that! We're scheduled to get ours coated there on our way down to the rally!

Oliver has always been considered a luxury travel trailer, like a yacht or a sailboat, even in 2017 when I first started. Perhaps not in terms of having a jacuzzi but in other ways. Technology, Features, Quality, Etc.

Not if you were a tent camper for 67 years. It is pure pleasure! PS: I'm 6'3 225 and love our wet bath! 🙂 GJ

I'm reading here the D52 code means 5200 LB axle and the 3500 LB means total leaf spring capacity. Wish mine were the 5200 axles for 12" brakes vs the 10" mounted on the lighter axles. This is good news for you! If you still want to check the backside of one of your wheels, just look right where the axle connects, closest to the wheel, to the brake backing plate. In a circle close to and around the axle, you should see 5 bolts in a pentagon shape (given yours are 5200 LB) or 4 bolts in a small square pattern for the 3500s. Or post a pic here if you want a dozen more opinions! 🤣

Art: A. Up and Out Info: First we can help OTT by getting the User Names and number of spring failures. The great part is that our impacted owners can provide reliable knowledge of their failures. This info is the ammo that they will need right off the bat should they bring this to Dexter's attention. If OTT desires more info from the impacted owners, it would be prudent for them to get it directly from the owners involved. Our list will be very helpful to our friends at OTT. That is where I'm going with this. B. Down and In Info: Asking that owners provide their paid cost for the specification I posted earlier today will allow straight forward comparisons of the spring alternatives that we as a group honed. Just getting prices without knowing what was purchased would not. This effort is one we as Owners can and should do directly. C. Down the Road: If OTT determines that they are going with another direction for their springs, then their volume would generate a much better price than we could ever get. The hope is that they would do the right thing (As in my eyes they ALWAYS have.) and offer replacement springs to all of us at their cost plus shipping and some handling. That is my the ideal solution in my eyes; the end of the issue as far as I'm concerned. GJ

LOL. Mine was so long, I had to make two lists: 2024 Do List Future Years Do List GJ

I also wanted to share something else. Oliver does recommend turning the inverter off when connected to shore power. They say that for a very practical reason. If your inverter is on, and you lose shower power your batteries might be depleted without you knowing it is happening. I do hope others continue to share their knowledge of the inverter and also that other's feel free to ask questions about the mysteries of the inverter. Thanks everyone for your usual helpfulness. Long Live Oliver!

Apropos of nothing, the first new version of the Bowlus Road Chief travel trailer I saw was being towed through Canby, Oregon by a Tesla.