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A short follow up: I dropped off my (spare) tire/wheel today just to be sure that my local DCT had the metal stem I needed in stock. I have an appt Wednesday morning to have all 4 tires rotated, balanced and the remaining 4 new metal stems installed. They just could not squeeze me in today. Not a big deal, and fair enough as they were pretty slammed. They were kind enough to at least get my spare swapped out. No charge of course. I returned home, remounted the spare on the back of XPLOR. This precludes me having to remove the bike rack etc at DCT this Wednesday when I get the rest of the wheels done. This metal stem seems to be a bit lower profile or shorter than the OEM rubber stems which suits me fine. I am thinking it will keep the TST TPMS cap TPMS transmitter a little closer to the inside of the wheel away from road rockets. I am really liking the Cooper tires and as they appear to be wearing really well. I will replace them with a new this set next year. Very happy to have 16” rims as well. Cheers! Roll On!!

@John Dorrer posted this on FB this past Friday and I responded to it soon afterward. My advice to everyone...buy yourself four real chocks. After parking, put one behind each rear tire and one in front of each front tire OR on both sides of the single axle tires. Kick them hard into place, up snugly against the tires. DO NOT ever place them only on one side. Raise the hitch off the ball BEFORE unhooking the safety chains. Unless you've accidentally parked on a sixty degree slope, the trailer should not move at all. Finish unhooking trailer and move the tow vehicle. Level front to rear with the 3000 pound capacity front jack. After placing at least six inches of blocking under each, level side to side with either of the 3000 pound capacity rear jacks. Your trailer will not move with these chocks. Yeah, I know they're from HF and they spell like a tire factory, but they're inexpensive, they work and I challenge you to be able to make that trailer move with these chocks properly set. Don't believe me? Try driving off after forgetting to remove them. I do not care for the Andersen Levelers. They're too expensive for what they do, they're useless (and never intended to be used) as chocks and they will skid around on concrete.

The way springs are rated does not appear to be consistent between all manufacturers. Especially those of another country. So it makes theoretical cross-manufacturer comparisons of their performance of non-like specified products a SWAG at best. I think it logical that a 5 leaf spring and a 4 leaf spring by the same manufacture, both having the same rating, will have different performance attributes. Add in using different makers and designs it gets complicated. And that is the problem we have with the Dexter 4 leaf. It's rating method is (sadly) not the same as the US custom made ones are rated. So stating as fact certain % increases for different springs made by different firms in different countries using different rating systems is another SWAG. I agree that the 2400# spring made to the ALCON rating standard would be insanely stiff on our OE2. We also can agree that the rating of the Dexter PR4B rating is under designed for our OE2's as they are failing. So, we likely the 2400# PB4 spring rating, of the same family by the same Chinese firm.... will also be ........exaggerated. Fortunately Mountainman 198 consulted with recognized experts on the topic. With their recommendation, and also field testing mostly from Art, the ALCAN 2,000 spring appears to be the rating we need. So, per ALCAN: The 1750# spring is 250 pounds under rated for our use. % Under Rated = (2,000 - 1750)/2000 = 12.5%, So, the 2400# spring is likely as well. So the ALCAN rating for this spring would be: 2400 less 12.5% = 2100 pounds. When we travel, the F/G/B tanks weight can easily be somewhere in a 300 to 600# range. When compared to the net delta between the ALCAN vs. Dexter China rating of the two springs of just 100 pounds... it's seems to me to be somewhat of a moot discussion for spring ratings. I have more than once stated that I believe that the Alcan is a better spring... at a steep price. If I were 20 years younger, my perspective may be different. But at my vintage I do not believe the PB4 Dexter's will fail in my lifetime. If they do, I will roger up on our post! So when we get to meet (hopefully this summer), we can ask Art to drag is around and we can A/B the two springs both on the road and off. My gut says the fake 2400's will be better on road and the real Alcan's 2000's will be better off road. And that has to do with spring rates. Which we can defer if you like. When we are done, I'm buying the beer! And it has to meet Art's standards! GJ Does iPhone have a vertical acceleration app?

Issue resolved, after testing grounds, switches, etc. turn out that the issue was with the fuse… although it was burned the Led indicator beside the fuse was not lighted, the light indicator only turn on if when one of the reading lamp was turned on and the fuse removed. Furthermore there is still some power circulating in the system with the fuse removed. Pretty awkward, but with the fuse replaced all returned to normal and was able to install new lights to replace the original touch light. Thanks again for the guidance and assistance. Safe travel. Serge

John, apparently you’ve not been on the forum or FB in the past month or better. Oliver made the announcement about service in Hohenwald being phased out several several weeks ago. By now it’s pretty old news. Perhaps you should come to the Rally and lead the charge.

@Geronimo John your post shows you quoted me, but it was @Mountainman198 who installed the Alcan springs and wrote this.

According to Service Dept the board part # for my MaxxAir is : 10C21275K I've ordered and perhaps will do a video for install though there are a ton already on YT etc. I will be doing some extra water-proofing. thx y'all

This is what I like about forums, inspected our chock leveling system and the components are showing a lot of wear. Decided to replace them with Rophor leveling system, like the looks of this system! Just ordered a set today. Our chocks have use expiration dates, too, already replaced them once, going to replace them next with the HF chocks from the local store later this week! Appreciate the information!

Ya might as well plan now for the day when you replace those lights with regular "switchable" ones. If you are coming to the Rally, be sure to look up Patriot. He can give you the details on the ...... switch. Bill

If you add any additional awning supports be sure and turn off the automatic wind detection/retraction sensor on the awning. 😎

I was aware of the announcement but was under the impression that they would still be available for a larger repairs/modifications. I’ll just do it myself and save a couple grand although I would have rather had them do it to save the time. I certainly won’t be letting some dealer tear into my Oliver.

And BTW, There are three Oliver dealers in Georgia. All of them are closer to you than Hohenwald so you should be really happy you don’t have to make a long trip.

Ditto! Out west we generally have stronger winds and storms during the summer are common. Best not to leave an awning unsupervised..... We leave, I roll-er-up. If we are boondocking somewhere for an extended period of time I pull my milk crates (One in Basement storing parts, one in the basket that holds our "blocks"), and our Anderson reciever to sit next to our awning poles. I have yet to be at a camp site where rocks are not plentiful. They provide ballast for the milk crates. Three pre-cut and looped sets of 550 milspec para cord tie downs and we are good to go for moderate winds. A recent upgrade was to add three carabiners so I could unconnect quickly and "roll-er-up" in a hurry. End of stay and the rocks go onto the access road in a low spot/washout. Nothing basically to buy. No added space taken. No added weight to be carried. = 3 wins!

Sorry JD! I'll edit the above accordingl Guess we'll ask to compare Art's and my trailers as test "beds". GJ

I've added you to the list of attendees I've been accumulating. Nothing official, and not related to Oliver's registration list. Just an easy way to connect faces to forum names once at the rally. I'll be posting a PDF for folks to print out before we leave for Alabama.

Which is why we use Rophor levelers. They are similar to the Andersens, but include rubber grip strips that are placed on the ground underneath the levelers. After installing one or both of these levelers, as needed to level the trailer, we also hammer in Harbor Freight chocks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NJSXRRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use a finger to tap it, but I'll definitely check them for dust and the spring alignment -- thanks!!

I’ve had four touch lights, one of which in center ceiling, that either flickered or would not come on or go off. Upon removing the cover, a simple cleaning of dust within and adjustment of the spring (in center fixture) solved the problem. Also, I find that a ‘gentle touch’ of back of hand rather than a ‘hand bump’ is best for operation. Thinking maybe the ‘bump’ method is causing the spring to move out of optimum position.

Yep, 100 kilometers per hour 😁

Just make sure your bride keeps its under 100 Bill. 😄 David

Five leaves vs. four and the lighter rating would certainly be "less jarring." Also, the Alcan design has the second leaf at full length so that it would not fail at the contact point where the end of leaf #2 hits the primary leaf.

They will install them in Grand Junction. Shop rate = $125/hr. About two hours.

Just to be fair: I too have metal stems and have never had a problem. However, I never had a problem with rubber stems either. I think that metal stems usually make sense for those of us that have stem mounted TPMS primarily due to the reason John mentions above. But, if you tend to take your Ollie into really "wild" places where the stems are likely to be hit with rocks, deep ruts, brush, etc. then the rubber stems can be a bit more "forgiving" than the metal stems. Bill

Wholly agree with this observation When my spring broke I was 250 miles from home. I bought the only pair of springs that would fit and were geographically close to where I broke down. they were 4 leaf, 2,400 lb springs as GJ describes above. While they did fit, I chose later not to replace the other two springs with 2,400 lb 4 leaf springs as the amount of stuff in my trailer which had stayed put during my prior 4,000 miles of travel on the stock springs had suddenly found its way to the floor during the 250 mile drive home (with only two 2,400 lb springs). My E2 now sports 5 leaf, 2,000 lb Alcans 2,000 lb, 5 leaf springs will be more flexible and have better travel thru their range than 2,400 lb springs with only 4 leafs (less jarring ride).

Sadly, I won't be at the Rally this year. But I'll watch here on the forum for threads to this. Happily, I'm already on the road -- enjoying the glorious wildflowers of Texas!

Bluegrass in a snow storm - classical.

Very kind. Our kids laughed for hours watching that. 🤣 We are already registered for the rally. Site D5.

I'm with ya.. and one less motor is one less thing to go wrong. If using a manual awning ever becomes too taxing for me I probably shouldn't be out camping any more..

This is what Discount Tire installed on my Oliver. I also bought a set of the exact same stems from them for my TV; took it to DT upon my return home and they did the install. No issues to date.

It looks like a bundle of Zamp Solar Panel to Charge Controller wire on top of the wheel well under the street side bed. Edit: I should have also mentioned that the wires are like a lamp cord in that both positive and negative are joined together. Zamp sold the bundle of wires in 25 or 30 foot lengths, but I’m not sure which. They run vertically up the wall to the radio cavity aft of the pantry. The solar charge controller is usually located above the radio and the wires would be cut in the cavity and attached to the CC input and output. The bundle in your picture would eventually go to batteries. Mossey

I understand touch lights were added at some point. Our older hull does not have them and I'm happy for that. Is every light a touch-light? Do you have lighting switch panels to turn on/off Main Lights, Kitchen Lights, Courtesy Lights, etc.? If so, I would remove all the switch lights for standard hardwired lights. Switch lights gives you a point-of-failure at every light location.

@Geronimo John you made a brief mention of China, so I'm guessing their heavier springs are also made there. Too bad, and I see other issues too. Several members here, going back 12 pages of comments, were worried about going too stiff on replacement leaf springs. I had written earlier that 14% stiffer is a nice bump - perfect! You're suggesting 2400 LB rated springs which are 37% stiffer. That's a big difference, that personally I would not at all advise this option. The Dexter "Tech" was selling the only option they had. Rethink this? Anyway, when it's time for me to upgrade I'm going with MADE in COLORADO, U.S.A. For $310 more NP and getting the right weight rating. Besides I also trust @MAX Burner and he showed us a quality installation using Alcan parts. I have for years paid a considerable premium so NOT to purchase from that large land mass in eastern Asia. This country stole IP from Motorola, where I worked during the 90s. and so many US companies. Come visit my garage to witness a 50-year collection of Made in USA tools. I'd say 96% Made in USA, and 4% from quality Asia manufacturers (also US Allies), specifically Japanese and Taiwanese made tools. Amazon has read my comment 100 times when I return junk. I click "Not as advertised" and just write "China" for the stated reason. They take them back with a smile!

We decided to go with metal valve stems 3 years ago. Shortly after doing so we had a flat, and the metal stem had failed.😣 I took XPLOR Hull #634 to our local discount tire shop and had all new rubber stems installed and all tires rotated and balanced. Zero issues since. We use the TST TPMS system and are very happy with it. The tech who does tires all day long said he sees more failures with metal stems than rubber. That was good enough advice for me. Cheers and Safe Travels!

We just watched your video during lunch. You can see how happy you are with the new trailer. I wish I could get Deb to commit to 100 nights a year! We were just 44 last year, and looking at 45-60 this year as of now. She's an avid gardener, and the best travel time is also her favorite time of the year in the yard. It looks like you're headed to the rally, so we hope to meet you there. We're on E-23. If you'd like, add yourselves to the list I'm collecting of attendees at:

I found this product a few year ago and really like it, been using their dielectric grease for 7 or 8 years, as well. It took a couple trips to work all of the old grease off of the Bulldog after initially wiping clean with paper towels, perhaps a thorough cleaning with a solvent would have been a better approach. Most of all, since it is clear/opaque there is no soiling of self or clothes. I also use a hitch ball cover when unhooked to help keep the ball free of dust and debris, as well as a clean hand when handling the hitch.

For sure us too! ++++++++++++++++++++ If I am reading that grease inhibits movement, that would not be the case. For the Bulldog and the Anderson ball, I give both a short spritz from some white lithium grease aerosol. When I get to the next stop, I wipe out the Bulldog and wipe off the Anderson ball. The first is to help keep the Bulldog clean. The latter is to help keep my jeans or leg clean. +++++++++++++++++++ One more safety must when on any slope of a camp site: PLEASE remember to have your TV in Park and Parking Brake Set, and most importantly always keep at least one of your safety chains attached until AFTER you have unhooked and leveled her. If you have any problem at all, she will not be going far. GJ

One last tip that I could add is that I always leave my safety chains (or cables if you have those) attached until the very end of setting up. After a long drive, potential bad weather, and road weariness has set in, things can go sideways in a hurry! Lots of great tips above. Never put my van in neutral before but will start doing that. And always chock both sides of your wheels.👍 Dave

Lot of good points made here, have not thought of putting TV in neutral to let it settle but on more than one occasion have discovered there is a tension between TV and Oliver based upon how the last movements went, usually from backing up with a significant turn. What I always do now is take the tension away from the two by pulling forward usually a few inches or a foot max will do while straightening the TV front wheels. Some ground can be difficult to read the slope certainly and in this case front and back chocks work well. Like a few of you I have always taken a big rubber mallet and pound the crap out of those things so they are in tight both for rubber chocks as well as the Anderson leveling blocks. As for the X Chocks the company warns they are not meant to hold the camper in place, only to stabilize it once setup claiming the device is not strong enough to hold most campers steady. That said I have no doubt a lot of people use them in this manner. Good luck in the future

Been there, done that, "got the T-shirt." I learned that my ability to accurately determine which way the campsite slopes is limited. So, I the started carrying chocks for both the front and back of each set of wheels. Before disconnecting the coupler, I ensure that the wheels are chocked both front and back, and rubber-hammered into place. So far, this has prevented unwanted movement.

always

John Dorrer: The same thing happened to me once on my relatively flat driveway. It scared the bee-jeebies out of me for a moment. In my scenario there was a slight decline to the right of the Oliver. Afterwards I investigated and believe that the problem was the way I placed the chocks. I placed the chocks behind each of the Olivers back wheels. Then as the tongue came up and off of my truck there was nothing to keep the Ollie wheels from coming forward. The tongue came up and then moved about 10" suddenly to the right (towards the Ollie's right). I believe that my Oliver "pivoted" on the right rear chock and because there wasn't anything on the left side to keep it from going forward.... it did. Since then, I have put my 4 chocks front and back on each side. It keeps both sides of the Oliver planted in place. I also think that because I was on my concrete driveway...and maybe the hard plastic chocks didn't "grip" on my concrete well ... it was a scenario that allowed the Oliver to move even quicker than it might have on a gravel camp-site.

Understood, everyone has their priorities and responsibilities; you definitely have a full plate! I know from reading your posts of the time and effort spent modifying your Oliver and upgrading your TV. I would think getting away with both while spending time with the family to be very therapeutic, as well.

Anyone else out there a Joe Bonamassa fan? Here is one of our favorites... especially when we are on the road with our Oliver.

So everything is working. A/C is running off the batteries as we speak. Woohoo! Shore power to ATS to EMS to MP2 AC IN then AC OUT to panel. GFCI circuit hooked back in to panel, all shore power running through MP2. Finally.... WOooohooo... and power assist is so cool. Still have to mount the Solar charger.

PJ at Princess Craft has a video on one of their Elite II’s. She does videos on all the trailers they sell. They are going to be represented at the Texas Oliver rally at Inks Lake State Park in October and will sponsor a BBQ.

I remember when Technomadia had their Elite I they were full timers.

The wet bolts from my Oliver are 9/16" O.D. and from my measurement of the ALCAN springs I received I am re-using my existing wet bolts as the I.D of the bronze bushings in the ALCAN springs I received are 9/16". Let me know if this does not make sense. I chose NOT to buy new wet bolts from ALCAN.

I can confirm that these measurements match the OEM brand/model spring specs for Hull #898 as well as match the published specs for the replacements spring brand/model provided by Oliver Service for my trailer. I encourage owners to confirm the specs of their OEM springs to know what they are replacing before proceeding with replacement of any part as we know certain differences exist between out trailers based in hull# and date produced. My OEM Spring make/model was conveniently stamped into the retainer band towards the end of each of my leaf springs (see pic). From this info I did a google search and found the specs. The springs installed at the factory on Hull #898 were made by EMCO and are model #PR-4B. The specs match what Steve provided above. Added to the specs Steve provided is the bushing spec provided by Oliver. The bushing is inserted into the spring eye and our wet bolts ride inside of them. The specs for these bushings (whether plastic or bronze) is 1.75”L, 11/16 O.D.(outside diameter) and 9/16”I.D.(inside diameter). It should be noted that the bronze bushing on the ALCAN springs is thicker walled than standard such that while it still has a 9/16”I.D., the spring eye into which it is pressed is larger than 11/16”. The 9/16”I.D. Of the bushing is important on these metrics as our wet bolts (which are 9/16” must fit inside the bushing eye) I hope this makes sense. I have attached a pic for comparison OEM spring in top, ALCAN on bottom.