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A few of the reasons we think owning an EV is not for us: We have no interest in an EV. The idea of someday being mandated by the government that we may have to comply and are forced to buy an EV is just not what we believe is American Freedom. 🇺🇸🇺🇸 Direct impact on the environment and health of workers mining lithium and other minerals. The draw on natural resources to mine lithium. The coal fired plants that power EVs is very real. Range anxiety due to the lack of charging infrastructure nationwide with no end in sight. Tremendous cost of installing this infrastructure on an ancient and completely vulnerable to attack power grid. (huge national security concern) Cost of installation of home charging ports for EVs. EV fires. Many fire departments are not equipped to deal with these fires and the hazardous fumes and what’s left over. Environmental impact. The cost of most EVs is completely out of reach for many American households. It’s been reported that insurance is much higher on EV’s mainly due to the extremely high cost of repairs if it can be repaired after an accident. Lack of qualified technicians at a body shop. Loss of mechanic jobs at existing dealerships. The huge cost of a replacement battery at some point in vehicle ownership. The accelerated depreciation of a used EV. Who wants yesterday’s EV tech? How Old Man Winter and extreme cold reduces the battery capacity. Many Canadians are already really unhappy with this and do not want EVs. EV’s are extremely heavy due to the battery weight and our roads pay the price. A road tax is being proposed in many states for EV owners since they don’t pay a fuel tax. Surely, at some point the government will automatically digitally tax EV owners on the miles driven and implement speed controls with electronic speed limiter in the name of safety. Some companies already implement digital control their on tractor trailers. Patriot🇺🇸

48 hours after severe weather passed through northern Ohio, we, like 2-300,000 other residents, are without power. @firstenergyhome is busting their behind, but last posted number was 3200 downed lines to repair. So we’re making do with a hodgepodge of alternatives. We trashed what didn’t fit in the Oliver fridge or the truck fridge. We moved all frozen food to the chest freezer in the garage, which is being powered by the Oliver’s lithium batteries. The truck fridge is powered by swapping two Bluetti solar generators charged with the 200W panel or the Oliver. And the Honda generators charging the Oliver, so it can power everything else! 🤪 I just returned from filling four propane bottles to ensure days of power. At least we have air conditioning a stove, and a hot shower in the Oliver. It could be worse, at 90 degrees or sub-freezing and facing broken pipes.

Yep, that would do it. Didn't the OP say they cycled all the breakers, though? Could be a failed breaker... But, how is he getting any reading at all from the circuit tester if the circuit is dead? If the outlet's actually dead, the circuit tester wouldn't light at all. Could be a cascading failure, more than one failure point. Hot/neutral reversed caused some other damage to the GFCI or the AC unit. Or maybe the EMS is on Bypass?? @Collier and Joan: please verify the small black switch on your EMS display is not on Bypass.

But wouldn't the EMS be showing an error if that were the case? Sounds like he has a wiring or component issue beyond the EMS or a bad GFCI (but why no AC at the same time?). Really needs someone with electrical knowledge to take a look. Should be fairly easy problem to track down with a multimeter. Edit- One thing I wouldn't rely on is a plugin circuit tester when testing a GFCI circuit. When GFCI's go bad you can get inaccurate readings from them due to the internal circuitry of the outlet.

A gfci that won't reset is either bad, or is getting no power. If you're getting power, no tripped breaker, no loose connections at the gfci, replace the gfci. They usually go at a very inconvenient time. Part of their DNA, I guess

First thing I would try is replacing the GFCI outlet.

Try this.. unplug from shore prower , go insde and trip all the 120 v breakers back and forth, sometimes they trip internal. Plug back into shore pwr. Good luck..

Great job making do in a tough situation. Mossey

Bummer, but glad you have the Oliver for a base.

Although you report you do not have an inverter, do you have a main 120V breaker? The symptoms you describe make me wonder. Also, do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? I carry a multimeter in our Hull # 1291. If you don't already own one, now is a great time to invest. The Klein MM325 is one good option: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-MM325-Multimeter-Manual-Ranging/dp/B0B57L9FNL/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3KFKT3QBJFTS4&keywords=klein%2Bmultimeter%2Btester%2Bmm450&qid=1707755646&sprefix=Klein%2Bmultimeter%2Btester%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-9&th=1 Study the owners manual and learn how to set the multimeter to test voltage on 120V circuits when connected to shore power. I would start with the power connections on the EMS (in the attic) to determine if you have any loose connections there and are getting voltage in the 110V to 125V range. If that checks out, I would next check the input connections on the back side of the 120V panel (ours is under the dinette seat). Finally, have you submitted a service ticket to Oliver? Oliver 's topnotch Service Department may know something we don't about the way Olivers without inverters are wired.

I can't believe I waited so long to do this mod. It was easy! The only problem was trying to fish wires up to the cabinet above the micro for the controller. I did not succeed, so the controller is down behind the bottom fridge vent for now. It was in the high 90s when I did the install and only got down to 75 or so overnight so there was lots of hot air coming out of the top vent, thanks to those Beech Lane fans. Before going to bed I dropped the fridge cooling level down to 6, and it was 37.5 degrees when I woke up. I think I also learned something important. In the middle of the afternoon, while it was still in the high 90s, I put a plastic container with water in the freezer to make a chunk of ice, and I think that made it hard for the Norcold to maintain it's temp. In the future, I'll only do that at night or when the outside temp is lower.

Have you looked inside the EMS box under the dinette? Pull the top off and check the wiring inside for a short. It will be obvious if there is one.

If the hot and ground are shorted you'd be able to see that by testing for continuity at the pins on either end of the cord. It could actually happen if one were to crush (run over?) the cord on a hard surface like a concrete campsite pad.

I get that. I love my 2005 Silverado, and I'll literally drive it til it won't "drive no more." Paid for decades ago, simple maintenance. We will, unfortunately, have to adapt. We already see the problems with hybrids, and "eco" gasser engines. My 7 year old tesla x jas had a maintenance bill of 4 tires, two wipers, and a 12v battery. I'd say 1500 to 2000, over 7 years. No oil changes,etc. You'd have had the same bills, for any gasser, plus plus. That said, I'd never likely try to tow with the x. The cyber truck, as cool as it is, is too big for me. Too big for spaces at the grocery store and costco, imo. Way too big for my allotted garage space. Maybe they'll make a cyber mini someday. Then I might be in the market. If it has a bigger battety, and can still tow my power boat, and the Ollie. We don't buy anything that can't tow 5000 pounds, at least. Also, need plenty of space in the back seat, for grandkids. 😄

I got this six-pack earlier this summer from Amazon. Not cheap, but worth it! https://a.co/d/i8OSeF1 Testing by Project Farm: https://youtu.be/ZEiSdZGInm8

I’ve used Mystik JT-6 since the trailer was new. I use it to pack the wheel bearings also. It’s what they were using at the factory when we picked up hull 313 in March 2018. I think you can get it at TSC. Use a good grease and use it often.

Your incoming voltage is fine. Earlier you stated the the Klein showed, "they all were indicating hot/grd rev" Does the readout on your onboard show any errors? Look under your dinette seat at the back side of the power inlet (where your external power cord plugs in) and make sure all the wires are tight and not burned. Also examine the inside of the inlet (from the outside) to make sure there is no scorching which would indicate an overheating due to a poor connection. Unless there's direct short in the plug or inlet port, I done understand how the hot and ground could be reversed. Keep posting until we can work this out.

Just so I understand...You were plugged into a power post at a campground. Everything was working fine and all of a sudden everything just stopped working. When you used the Klein tester, were you at the campground, at home or both? At home your 30 amp power inlet on your house has always worked in the past?

While camping yesterday the a/c and 110 outlets stop working. The GFCI outlet under side bed table was not trip but would not work either (test and reset buttons wouldn't work). I was hook up to shore power and the EMS showed no error codes. No circuit breakers were trip, only items that run off shore power won't work, I do not have an inverter. Today after getting home last night (had to leave campground/ temp outside was 96) hook up to my 30amp power and still the same results. I have very limited electrical knowledge, I did plug in my Klein RT210 tester into all the outlets and they all were indicating hot/grd rev. Any help will be appreciated. 2019 Legacy 2 Hull 514

Ok. What about a transfer switch? @Collier and Joan, do you have the optional front shoreline connection by the propane tanks? I think I remember someone saying their EMS only protected power coming through the street side connection. If the EMS was wired between the street side connector and the transfer switch, and the transfer switch was stuck in the front connector position, you would have good power at the EMS but nowhere else. (I don't know why anyone would wire a trailer that way, but you never know... That also doesn't explain the circuit tester readings, but hey...) @Collier and Joan, if you do have the front shoreline connector, have you tried connecting to power there?

I'd be happy to share some MT intel 🙂

Bad sensors. Like those who posted above, we have learned that our fresh, gray and black tank sensors are terribly inaccurate. Our fresh tank sensor, for example, reads 68% when the tank is overflowing (and therefore clearly full) with the trailer level.

That is an amazing area. It was probably in the '70's when I worked up there that I ate at some amazing Amish Restaurants.

Since the EMS shows everything is fine, and all 120 outlets and appliances are down, the problem is more than likely between the EMS and the circuit panel or in the panel itself. Get someone over who is able to troubleshoot electrical and I'm sure they'll be able to find the problem fairly quick.

Like several others, I use CV2 for bearings and Mystic. kfor the suspension. GJ

Not an electrician here, but searching online suggests you could have a loose neutral wire.

Exactly, one can always use the Hull # to cross reference individual ‘signatures’ on the forum for additional information.

Following. What's throwing me is the hot/ground reverse. What about the shore power cable? Do you, or a friend, have another 30 amp RV shore cable you could try?

We did a couple of trips to the Elkhart area with our last fifth wheel (to visit the mothership). We really enjoyed the Amish region. Went to an Amish buffet and a huge flea market in Shipshewana. Got one of the best pizzas we've ever had in Goshen. And the Elkhart RV Museum is cool. But the potholes on the highway... 😬

Yep, I always have two packed away. I've used them to help fellow campers but thankfully haven't needed to replace one of my own yet.

I have given up. The monitors never give accurate data and I have accepted that as fact.

That’s correct at campground everything was working and then at the same time the air stop working and the outlets would not work, use the Klein at home not the campground, the 30 amp at home is a hookup in my carport for the trailer and has always worked, the ems shows voltage coming in/ 125

You may also be able to lower your Xantrex charger current limit parameter to lessen the amount of current being supplied for charging the batteries thus reducing the overall electrical load on the system. This will allow for some usable power for other accessories but will of course cause a longer battery recharge time.

FWIW: For us, every road trip is different in terms of load-out and corresponding payload weight. It all depends on what we're planning to do on a particular adventure. Since we sold our 1-ton RAM 2 years ago, the days of throwing anything we "think" we would need in the 8-foot bed are long gone - as we never even came close to maxing out the payload limitation on the Big 3500. With he TUNDRA, we're limited to a measly 1400lbs cargo weight - it is what it is. So, we developed a simple spreadsheet that we fill-out before each departure which calculates how close we are to the 1400lb max limit (...remembering that this includes a full gas tank). Our list of cargo items is all inclusive with a measured weight for each line item - obviously, we don't take all these items (they wouldn't fit), but only calculate the weights of those loaded for a given trip. For example, the items listed below indicating "0-lbs" were not brought along with us this time. This is a screenshot of the spreadsheet for the current trip we're on now: We simply go down the list and insert the weight associated with the item (column D) if it's being brought along. If we're not boondocking, like on this trip, much of the heavy items stay in the Man Cave at home. Even if we're in the BD mode - the volume of space under the BakFlip bed cover usually limits the weight we can carry anyway. We typically run 75 - 100lbs less than the maximum allowed cargo weight, FYI. Kind of a PIMA, but I believe "weight and balance" is a necessary planning activity just like back in the day when instead of pulling a travel trailer, I was flying aircraft....

Or you could just lift the side of the Ollie that has the troublesome zerk with the rear jack. The idea of lifting the trailer is to remove the downward pressure on the suspension system. And do either of these procedures while the Ollie is connected to your truck. If you are going to be under the trailer and you don’t have any jack stands to support the trailer while working on the suspension, be sure to place wood blocks or what ever you use under your jacks when setting up, under the frame as a safety measure. Stay safe! Mossey

A couple knuckleheads enjoying a sunrise near Palo Duro Canyon SP this morning.... Then we had some visitors... IMG_2333.MOV Gotta love 'em! Cheers! A & D

Welcome to the New Green **** (scam). Weight is only one of many factors. The manufacturing pollution created in China is X times the life of the carbon emissions of average ownership duration. I’ve kept MANY combustion-engine vehicles over 10-20 years. There is considerable savings in that, to the environment and pocketbook! Always love when I see a used hybrid at a dealer or on Craig’s! Excellent condition, but 6-8 years old. Get ready for the cost of new batteries! Very soon the marketplace will have thousands of EVs, not worth 20% of new. Cars, trucks, yard and power tools… I’ll keep my 20+ combustion engines on our property. And I can rebuild them with my own two hands! I say this as I install 600AH LiFePO4 in our Oliver. This is where it belongs; RV, boat and home. BTW, our electric bill is up at least 30% this summer. Natural gas in AZ, still reasonable (likely not in NE for either). Sorry for the diatribe! Hoping for new policies in the new year… Pray, hope.

Lots of good spots here but honestly having stayed at Sand Hollow in the past this is one I would cross it off the list as a waste of time. There are much better places in the SW or even SW Utah than Sand Hollow. I would also encourage while exploring those popular areas to get off the beaten track and venture into many of the awesome BLM areas of the SW that are every bit the equal to the National Parks and Monuments but without the crowds or fame. Regardless have a great trip.

Forgot to add the picture

FYI: D and I have reserved site #81 for the mini-rally; looking forward to meeting everyone! Cheers!

Oliver moved north to Parowan Gap. Picture taken returning from our day outing when we could first see the campsite from Gap Rd. If you can see Ollie in the first pic, you have good eyes! Zoomed in on the second picture.

Took this photo south of Augusta Georgia of a Beechcraft 18. Camped at Hardridge Creek COE Campground on the Walter F George Lake in SE Alabama, we played golf on the Georgia side the lake.

Hard ridge Creek COE campground in AL. Right on the border with GA. First trip down south in “Yogi”, and we’re loving the fall here.

The Wonder Egg is enjoying a week camping at Seadawg’s secret mountainside retreat in the Appalachians of North Carolina. Scrumptious breakfast, lunch and dinners prepared with panache over the open campfire. Life is goood on the mountain.

A little advise. Donna went to a lot of work to put an attendance list together, and now you want her to do more work to appease you by adding columns with Forum members nick names and home locations. She provided attendees, Hull #, and site #. I highly recommend you leave things alone. I don't see any reason to have that done. If you feel it is so important then perhaps you should make one for yourself.