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By the way, thank you for your honorable service to our great country! 🇺🇸👍🏻

We bypass Flagstaff all the time! When I work in Vegas heading home and there's snow up at 7K ft, I head south on US HWY 93 and near Bagdad AZ there is a county highway that heads towards Prescott. Given you are south of Flag, take highway 260 out of the Verde Valley towards Payson. Then Hwy 87 to Winslow which is under 5K elevation and you can get back on I-40 there. We only drive thru Flagstaff if we're going there since there is always traffic, construction on I-40 and SNOW in the winter! This route is equal in time to I-17N and I-40E and a beautiful drive! We're at 5400 ft and overnight had 1-2" of rani at 40F. It snowed and is still snowing there now at 7K ft. I can see the storm clouds from our deck! Hwy 87 shows rain on the road with snow on the peaks around the edge of the White Mountains.

100% concur, @Geronimo John, John! We've got the disk brake upgrade on our radar and will likely drop the hammer on them when our current 12" drums need replacement...FYI

@Galileo Per my previous post, we have a 2023 and I removed the awning seal and installed THIS 3/4” drip rail that works very well. Only issue is the drip rail comes wrapped in a coil and having it straightened up was a mission, almost impossible. Even after I managed to get the drip rail somewhat straightened out and stuck to the side (below awning) of the RV, the front top edge of the "J" is still warped, even now 4 months later. That said, it’s just aesthetics and I still like it much better than the stock seal, all it did was catching junk and it was hard to clean behind it.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to my newbie battery problems, charging is complete, chief technology guru,aka my wife, got battery app working, she had to call corporate help desk on the victron app, someone did not set it or changed the default code, ńot a biggie but she works so cheap i don’t ask when she will get it done…..been married 40 years took me first 20 to learn many things.

I also purchased the Shoreline Tongue Weight Scale. It works well and appears to be reasonable accurate. I also weighed our TV and LEII on a CAT scale and computed the tongue weight. The tongue weight reported by the Shoreline scale and the computed weight from the CAT scale were reasonably close, ~500 lbs. I have only measured our tongue weight once with the scale. Unless you make a significant modification or change how you load the trailer, I would not expect the tongue weight to vary much. Given the low frequency of use, I would try to borrow one from a friend, or perhaps rent a tongue weight scale, if one can be found.

Yeah, but $412 plus tax and S&H is pretty decent for the door core. I'm looking forward to seeing this when Craig @Galway Girl gets theirs installed! I believe you may be opening a can of worms if "re-skinning" one of these doors. Better have a larger workbench, plenty of clamps, and superior craftsmen skills! Our small cracks are just fine, as-is for now, but I too would buy the core when needed. Thanks again Craig! OTT charges a lot for accessory installation and service since it is not their core business of fiberglass hull manufacturing. I have not gone to OTT for service but have receipts from prior owners and I see it was a lot of money, even back in 2018 and 2020, without the inflation of the last 4 years! It's like their $1,500 "on sale" 30A DC-DC charger install that does not include the TV side of the installation (I estimate about $1000 for labor). Say OTT can purchase a full door assembly for $600 wholesale. That again would be $1000 for labor or close to it. Honestly, I'd rather install the DC-DC charger, both TT and TV sides, than do the work of replacing the door jamb!

Depends on the batteries. In the 2022 model year the smaller Lithionics package had heating pads under the batteries with a separate switch, but the larger batteries had built-in heaters without an external switch.

I decided to get more into the proper balance of truck and trailer and purchased the Sherline Tongue Weight Scale. Love the simple design, ease of use and Made in the USA! I also have a dual-axle flatbed trailer which hauls our side-by-side and I need to get that straight where I can strap down the UTV further up or back to get it truly balanced to pull with a 1/2 ton truck. There is an Amazon business price at $152. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007REK28M?ref=fed_asin_title I tried it out today, though our Oliver has no water in the fresh tank, no clothes in the rear cabinets or closet and no food or other supplies in the pantry and fridge and no gallons of drinking water and various adult beverages in the floor of our Oliver closet! I will measure again next week prior to heading out to Quartzsite! After a first trip, we came home and measured 6,000 LBS for the Oliver. This was likely the average weight at the time, but after mods and more travel stuff we should be camped today closer to 6,600 GTW (will soon, but have not measured GTW recently). More or less empty today, I measured 565 LBS Tongue Weight, and being empty at say 5,800 LBS this is 9.7% tongue weight which is at the low end. My first thought is to think hard about mounting bikes or other cargo on the rear of your Oliver. Our OEM OTT 2" bike rack is removed and sitting in our shed. As mentioned, I will do this again next week when the FWT is full and we are packed to leave town! I like this little gadget!

Just came across this thread, I seen on Pellant.com website they have Hehr windows.. they have a 800 #. Just putting this out there..Good luck you guys trying to find replacements.. Stay warm out there!!!

Looks like the ceramic filters range in what they can remove, such as Florine. In any case, ours seems to be doing the job, FYI...

We haven’t tried them either, they just came out a month or so ago. We’re using the same as you.

One of our original purchases was a trash grabber: It works GREAT for pushing our milk crates back into the basement. But when removing the milk crates the vinyl flooring hooks the edge of the milk crate. So I tied a paracord "Yoke" to the base of the crate one one end, and to the door hinge on the other. By pulling the paracord "high", it lifts the milk crate just enough to pass that edge. Also a lot faster. GJ

A manufacturers max payload number is theoretical for a very specific version of that truck. After all is said and done, options added, axle ratios, etc. You often find that the payload numbers are far less than the maximum stated for the truck. Don't believe it until you see the sticker on the door. And, maybe then until you've put it on the scales. Then you will run into what every other half ton truck tower runs into. Payload limits.

We love Flag when there's no snow piled up.... MartAnn's is our fav spot for brunch/lunch, FYI. Best to Lew and Mike when you see them. I'm thinking @Mountainman198 Lance and Casablanca were a couple of Alcan's first OTT customers last year.... Stay safe, brother! See y'all down the road...

i switched from an ecoboost F150 to a 6.7D F250 for the mountain pass reason - F150 could pull, but it didn't have the comfortable braking (including engine braking) the F250 has

I wish I needed new axles. So I could dream about getting 5200 axles with disk brakes and springs of my choice (written so as not to kick the sleeping Spring Bear topic). Bullet Proof! But then I would need to ask Crazy Horse to rob a bank to pay for it.......... GJ

LOL GJ

The CL900 also does and all the way up to 2000 amps. 😮

As already mentioned, Klein tools have a long history for quality. They only have two clamp-style multimeters that measure DC Amps, the CL390 and the CL800. I purchased the CL800 last year since it has a HD casing and an Ebay seller had one for $85. I still haven't figured out how to use 90% of its functionality, but I can read V, A and R! The CL390 is all you really need. We're all in agreement here! 😂

@Galileo I'm starting to feel your pain here! I worked on the long cable going to the black tank waste valve. I tried to merely grease the two ends on the slide pistons with no improvement. Then I tried Mikes method. You need an 1/8" Allen key. The cable came out cleaner than I expected. I cleaned the cable with rubbing alcohol and then greased it as inserting with a silicone-based grease. It got stuck at the end, so I freed the cable clamp (two Phillips screws) from the valve and then it pushed through easily. It's maybe a little smoother, but... When I had the cable out it had two bends in it from the forced turns in installation. One in the middle of the length and a tighter radius bend at the waste valve end. Grease cannot help much with these acute bends. I tried working them out by hand with minor improvement. etrailer wants $50 for the 144" cable alone with mid-March delivery! I still have no idea which way I will go. At least I have time, as they are difficult but still functional. This installation is crude (see pic). Besides the hard angles in the 12 ft cable, the two valves are on top of each other, angled towards each other and rubbing. They also could have mounted the 3" valve on a 45 degree angle so that the cable did not have to turn a full 180! And all they had to do was to install the 1 1/2" gray valve further forward. It's also rubbing hard on the fiberglass wall. To install electric valves on either of these, I would have to move the gray valve and replace the black pipe, from the rubber joint to the gray tank. Val, on your newer hull OTT must have done better work or something was different for you to have the room to simply install the motorized valve. BTW, nobody should really worry about adding extra splices, though I have removed many of them in our hull. Another thing you can see in the pic is all the crimped butt connectors and they were used all over the basement! More reliable than a 3M Skotchlok which should only be used by backyard mechanics adding aftermarket accessories, never in a factory installation. I hadn't noticed any of this until I got into it! More to come, sooner or later...

JD: Please do the same amp tests on your completed install as we posted earlier. Will be cool to compare yours, our and Art's numbers. GJ

Thanks, JD, I hooked the Andersens together and voila, the charger powered up and became discoverable. It detected zero charging as the truck was not running and after startup the charging parameters showed readings and then I put in the remote on/off link and all seems to be operational :) It was defaulted to lifepo4 batteries...yay!

The lack of light in the pantry has always bugged me. I suppose if you’re a weekend warrior and only have a can of beans, burger buns, and a bag of marshmallows in the pantry it’s fine as it is. Since we pretty much live in our Oliver for three months at a shot - and we like interesting food - then finding anything in a fairly well-stocked pantry with no light - is a challenge. Initially, I was using a little “Nebo” LED light that you can get from most hardware stores. It has a motion-sensing feature that is an improvement. I’m still using one of these in the Norcold fridge. One night, I saw the light in the pantry was coming on without the door being opened. Not sure why, but I think the passive infrared sensor was picking up movement -through- the pantry door or wall. Still dunno why. At any rate, I found another solution that’s been working well and isn’t subject to being triggered by things moving in the pantry as you drive or other false movement. Amagle 4 Pack Door Open Automatic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVCJLF5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share These are inexpensive enough to not fret over if they don’t work or if one quits on you. The only real challenge - after trying to figure out the best location(s) - is to line up the magnet with the sensor on the light. Due to the design of the door - and without wanting to design and make custom spacers - you need to mount the magnet close enough to shut the light off when the door is closed. I used a dry erase marker and Post-It flags to help me do this. Below are a couple of pictures that (hopefully) give you a hint where to mount the magnets once you choose where you want the lights. I placed two in my pantry, but I may go to three or even four. You’ll need to mount the lights as close to the edge as f the pantry opening as possible. Magnets need to be set back away from the edge if the door to clear the frame opening. Reviews on Amazon state that the foam tape supplied is too weak. They’re correct. I replaced mine with 3M “Command” foam mounting tape as I like the option of not leaving goopy adhesive behind if I change my mind. Finally - since you can’t tell if the light(s) are shutting off when the door is closed, I used my iPhone video camera to monitor it - and verified they DO turn off when I shut the door. (You could also do that with your home fridge if you’ve always been curious if that light turns off!) (I’d show more pics - but my pantry’s a bit of a mess at the moment…)

Message modified @TxMN2020 If you add your trailer information to your siginature, it would help for people to provide you answer's based on the year of your OTT.

Hi Bill. Thank you for the recommendation. Part of my due diligence prior to pulling the trigger on Zuni was practically wearing out the Oliver University site, along with YouTube, and watching video after video. There are tremendous resources available in both places, and I'm sure I'll continue to visit them frequently. Cheers!

If I could figure out how to my big butt in there (shoulders actually), I would clean the check valves and remove the restrictors. My son Adam is smaller and thinner, so I will get his help this spring! If using the City Water, a true pressure regulator outside the Oliver is the way to go. Not needed to fill the FWT since pressure cannot be created in an open line. And the tank will fill fast!

JD, This is great thread for those with older trailers. I'm always amazed by the depth of knowledge by a number of members. Hoping our 2022 carries us for years to come, without having to do anything major. Anything electric is over my head🙃 Thanks for sharing all your mods. JD

Thanks for this awesome post with pictures, JD! Although my installation is a little different it was very helpful, to me, to see that these batteries indeed fit into the battery tray. And thanks much to Scuba RX ,here at the "Q", with helping me remove the wiring rat nest in the battery cave....+ and - bus bars were so easy to install! I now have only 2 wires inside my battery cave! Pictures later after my DC to DC charger installation.......happy camper again! John

I knew I shouldn't have done it, but I decided to go down the rabbit hole of looking up the actual law in the CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) based on the DOT 4BA type tanks I have and found these recertification guidelines. Adds even more confusion, but I'm still having it done at 10 years anyway!

I appreciate your thoughtful reply. You understand the physics better than most. Measure tongue weight, keep more trailer weight in front of the axles. Please forgive my sarcasm. Loved my ‘75 Alfa (drove it from ‘77 to ‘97). Your Datsun 1600 must have been fun. I got stuck with a girlfriend and her Datsun 610 needing work. Still can’t stand the name Nissan! Long, long ago I had to move out of the city for property and the 3-car garage, but I get it. But here 30-40 minutes from home in most directions is a 3,000 ft drop and it worries me during each descent, the Oliver behind us. Best wishes and I really like how you ended your post! 😂

I am old as well and we both have memories of our roadster days. I once wore a new set of tires bald in 12,000 miles with my 68 Datsun 1600. Anyway, I live in the inner city (Portland OR.) and have a low height garage so a truck is just not practical for me and on street parking in my neighborhood is a challenge. My plan when I first purchased #657 was to limp along with the 4Runner just long enough until a tow capable EV SUV became available. The Rivian would work but according to my wife I can't afford one. And actually, the 4Runner is working out much better than I could have hoped. Of course, having driven nothing but manual transmission cars most of my life (like you probably), I am very comfortable manually shifting the automatic when towing to enhance performance and the transmission in my 4Runner is designed for maximum engine braking when descending. I am comfortable driving in the mountains and rarely have to use the brakes much to control speed, even on 6% downhill grades. I have found that the vehicle struggles with an OEM air filter but performance excels with a K&N air filter. I do have to be careful in loading my TV and have become accustomed to traveling light. If I travel with both my wife and dog, I have used up my cargo capacity and most everything else goes in the Ollie. I always keep the Ollie below 6,000 lbs. My 4Runner is a rare version called the V8 Limited that was factory set up for towing and was made in a Lexus factory in Japan. I am the original owner. I think it is almost identical to your GX470 but mine has the x-reas schocks and a self-leveling rear end which yours may not have. It is also factory rated to tow 7,000 lbs which I believe is a bit more than the GX470. Anyway, right before I drove 2,400 miles to pick up my new Ollie, I replaced the x-reas shocks and air springs at a cost of $5,600 and had a complete brake replacement with all OEM parts at a cost of $2,600. I now have over 20,00 miles of towing my Ollie and quite a bit of it has been on interstates in the mountains of Oregon, Washington and Utah. The car does struggle somewhat at high altitudes going uphill on windy two lane roads, but downhill is never a problem and I have never experienced any sway. That said I sure hope to upgrade to a more capable TV soon. Then we can start bringing a few toys along with us🤪

My battery box tray is the same as your on my 2015 Legacy 1 trailer, 14.25" X 14.25" X 11" I was ready to go with the Epoch battery but pivoted after consulting with a local solar company. I am now getting 2 of the Victron 200 amp/hr batteries. They fit beautifully in my tray, and together will give me 400 amp/hrs of battery power ( well, almost). These batteries have a remote BMS, so the room in the battery where the BMS is normally located can be used for more Lithium cells and/or the batteries can be comparatively smaller with more available energy than other brands. Not cheap by any means. The batteries are expensive and then you also have to purchase the BMS module separately. For me and my needs however, it was worth it. I also elected to have this outfit do the install for me. The whole project just grew way beyond my comfort zone for a DIY job. After seeing their part list for the job, I'm really glad I'm going this way. My hat is off to all you folks who took this on yourself. You saved yourself a pile of money! When completed, I'll post a review with pics. Cheers, Dave

Our 2018 Elite I battery bay overall dimensions (without the tray installed) are 17-1/4" wide x 11-3/4"H x 18"D (only 11-1/4"H where the 1/2" aluminum block hangs down for the door latch). The tray inside dimensions are 14"W x 14-1/8"D x 11"H (10-1/2"H where the 1/2" aluminum block hangs down for the door latch). Epoch 460's (either variant) will still not fit, even with the battery tray removed. Should be able to fit two Epoch 300's without the tray, or one Epoch 300 with the tray. There's only 1/2" clearance for cable/lug above the battery when using the tray... which *may* require laying the single Epoch 300A battery on its side to provide sufficient clearance for a fat cable on top. Also note that a "without the tray" configuration will require engineering an alternate method for holding the battery(s) down.

I did buy the Barker product and then there was an Amazon "like new" Valterra valve so I thought I would get both to compare and later return one of them. I believe you did good on the Valterra. Made in Mexico vs. USA but I like how it's an integrated unit. The motor is heavier and feels stronger running. Included is the valve and seals, the Barker kit contains motor, bracket and switch only and you may need a new valve to mount the Barker easily (handle vs. cable pull). The Valterra has the better wire harness and switch with both black/gray faceplates. At least you can recess the switch (cut large holes), both switches are too big! Not fond of the fuse in the faceplate, prefer the separate fuse wired at the bus. I powered both up and they are in the raised position as pictured.

If you do research on using the black tank for extra fresh water, you will see it isn't a good idea. The plastic for the black tank is not conducive for drinking. The chemical make-up would be unsafe. The chemical make-up will allow those chemicals to leach into the water.

Just in case, before you install an electric valve: If you disconnect the cable from the existing valve does the cable pull out of its sheath easily? If so, the resistance might be in the valve itself. That happened to us. Valve lubricant worked for a while but the valve eventually leaked and had to be replaced. Still cheaper than an electric valve and less to go wrong in the future. (Electric gate valves add a motor and wiring to a previously simple system.)

As John noted, the check valve was apparently stuck. All good now. The hot and cold are still reversed, because I was wandering around talking all day instead of opening under the sink. It's supposed to rain much of Saturday, so maybe I'll do it then. There are 236 fiberglass trailers here at the rally, including many familiar Oliver faces.

We resolved the issue with the Vizio television. Rather than mess around with trying to fit a 32” set where the old 24” one was, I just opted for a different 24” set. Figured that we didn’t really -need- a bigger screen. (Trailer’s not that big.) And it was more just the aggravating behaviour of the Vizio set that irked me so much. Went to Walmart and bought an “Onn” Roku set for the princely sum of $78. The mounting hole pattern is the same as the Vizio, so it was an easy swap out. If anybody loves the 24” Vizio and wants a spare, we’re traveling through Florida now and I’ll gift it to you.

A follow-up now that we’re in Florida at the 9th Annual Eggs ‘n S’mores rally, and can actually test the modification. 1) Someone appears to have connected the hot and cold feed lines on the bathroom backwards… Back in November I’d already had the water heater drained and bypassed, so I had only tested for leaks and function. Guess I should have checked to see if it worked as designed!! 🤪 I’ll swap the feed lines tomorrow. B) Something I didn’t anticipate, and need to look at @mossemi’s drawings again. Everything works fine other than the above notable exception while feeding from the fresh water tank. But when feeding the system via the city water inlet, it is somehow filling the fresh water tank and eventually overflowing. I’m guessing Mike had a one-way valve in the recirculating line that I missed. More to follow!

I am very sensitive to sound, good ears, can hear a toilet leak, every little sound in the house and odd sounds an automobile or RV. Don't like to sleep with a fan running or A/C on, any motor noise. In the Oliver, I can hear the fridge cycle and the HWH turn on even in electric mode, etc. The Victron Multiplus II is a heavy-duty inverter charger. You can certainly hear it when the inverter is ON pushing enough amps to run the A/C or our Air Fryer. The thing is these appliances are so much noisier, so it doesn't really matter at the time. I have heard a couple Xantrex and several PD chargers and they make more noise when charging. I have our MP2 set at 50A charging and that may keep the sound down some (you can set it up to 120A charging which may get louder). For our LiFePO4 batteries, 50A is an easy charge so I keep it there. Usually when we connect to shore power, +50AH is enough to get the batteries back to 100% soon enough. I sleep directly over our MP2 and I do not hear it at night. Never hear it while watching TV on inverter. We do have 10" 3-layer foam mattresses which helps to insulate. If it was still at a high charge rate by the time I go to bed, I would hear it a little. If that was ever the case, I could open up the VictronConnect app on my phone and switch the MP2 to OFF or inverter only modes. I have not ever had to do this, but it is an option. This beast is quiet! We run our MP2 24x7x365 days a year. IT is ALWAYS in on position unless wanting to be in charger only or inverter only modes.

We've been very pleased with the basket and boxes. Now that we've had them for almost 6 months we can give more feedback. First, many have asked about their weight limit. As @Patriot mentions, this is a question better answered by Oliver. Sea Biscuit doesn't provide a weight limit, but the basket and boxes are very robust. Oliver has a 150 lb limit on their optional bumper receiver. Our unladen receiver weighs 26 lb, so we're looking at a maximum of about 176 lb hanging on the rear bumper. The Oliver receiver could probably handle more weight, but you also have to consider front/rear weight balance. Our Sea Biscuit basket and empty boxes combined weigh 74 lb. If we observe the Oliver weight limit, we can carry 102 lb maximum in the boxes. We only carry about 30 lb of bulky/dirty items in the boxes: chocks and blocks in one rear box and a (very) small grill in the other. We also have the Oliver front basket, sometimes loaded with 70-80 lb of gear (e.g. generator and fuel) which helps offset the weight on the rear. Access to the dump hoses stored in the bumper is a minor inconvenience, but less so if you keep the hoses attached. Since we have the Nature's Head, we only have to deal with gray water. If we had a black tank, then we wouldn't want to troubleshoot a leaky hose or connection while the basket is attached. That brings us to another access issue. The basket must be pulled out about 4-5 inches to remove the spare tire cover. This isn't a big issue though. We can just pull the pins holding the basket on the bumper and slide it back a little without removing it from the mounts. No tools required. Fortunately, we haven't had to use the spare, but the basket won't be a problem if we do. Besides the convenient storage, especially the easy access to the chocks and blocks, an unexpected big benefit is that the boxes are at countertop height when parked on level ground. We always have an outdoor table set up. The boxes are also strong enough for a 225 lb person to stand on, making it easy to visually check things on the roof. Steve

Starlink monthly billing works as follows: Payment due date The first month's service fee is automatically charged on the payment due date, which is the earlier of the date you activate your Starlink Kit or 30 days after it ships. Recurring billing The service fee for each subsequent month is due on the monthly anniversary of the payment due date. Billing cycle The day you activate your Starlink becomes the recurring date for your statement. For example, if your billing cycle is June 28th–July 27th, you'll be billed on June 28th. Pricing Pricing may vary based on your location and selected equipment. Additional charges You may be charged additional automatic charges for Priority or Mobile Priority data if you opt-in to purchasing it after hitting your data limit. Payment methods Starlink accepts most credit cards, debit cards, and ApplePay. Alternative payment methods are supported in various regions. Pausing and reactivating If you pause your service, the month you pause is not pro-rated. If you restart your service, the month you restart is pro-rated.

@jd1923 This link may be of interest. Mossey

No going back now! @mossemi Did you use crimp on PEX fittings for the "T" into the fresh water fill for the return line, or a SharkBite "T"? I've never messed with PEX before, and I know some people don't trust SharBite fittings in trailers. So I'm not sure which one I'm likely to have not leak... I'd be further along if the weather was better, and if I hadn't wasted a bunch of time on other stuff. For instance, I spent an hour or so trying to figure out why my EMS wasn't working. I pulled the cover, and there was only 40V AC coming it. I figured I had a bad connection in the external port like I've seen with others, and it was fine. Couldn't be the incoming line, because the light is on on the power cord. Turns out it was getting electricity, but not much. 20 months of having the garage door shut on my 14 gauge extension cord must have cut enough wires it was barely feeding power. And I was running a space heater on that just last week! 😲 Now there is a 12 gauge extension cord going through a notch cut in the bottom of the garage door seal. No more pinching.. And while it was warm enough, I painted and installed the courtesy light deflectors that @Ollie-Haus showed me at a small fiberglass rally here in Ohio in September. I think I'll still add some amber film to tone the light down some more. And, I wasted a couple hours trying to find a flush-mount outdoor rated 110V AC outlet to insert into the panel under the side table, where the propane fridge lower vent was located on older trailers. No such thing! And I really didn't need to do that now, with other stuff needing done before winterizing and then getting ready to go to Florida in January I'm usually good about scheduling my time, but not lately.

Congrats! You went through the same process as me (and probably a lot more owners) of researching, thinking, renting SOB trailers and ultimately deciding to get it now rather than wait. The learning curve on the Ollie with all the various systems can be steep but don't let it ever get you down. Think of the glitches as steps to becoming a master of your trailer. I've got around 15k on mine and I'm still learning plenty of how to keep it up and running, thanks to the forums, the OTT service center and of course, trial and error! lol

@Zodd It is a great feeling to sit outside in a nice campsite admiring your Ollie and thinking we must be the smartest people around! Most of us have enjoyed the same thoughts while sitting around our Ollie! Congratulations for sticking to the Oliver Travel Trailer plan y’all put together. Mossey

No display, just the VE.Bus device connected via ethernet which allows connection via the VictronConnect App (link and pictures shown above). Given this is true, if the Victron MP2 fails, there will be NO shore power. You'd have to pull the bed, pull the AC wiring from the MP2 and use wire nuts (have 3 in my Oliver parts box) to connect to shore power. I get soooo frustrated with design engineers that do not understand common let alone severe use cases! It would also be crazy to install a secondary ATS!

After two and a half years of ownership and being a retired Body Shop Mgr. I decided it was time to buff the trailer. My trailer sets outside because my wife said if I wanted a cover it would have to be the $20,000 cedar wood type and not a metal cover type. So I decided I could buff it every couple of years and that is what I do, just did it 3 months ago and it turned out beautiful, and I do good work if I don't say. I used products for fiberglass buffing and I did post it here on the forum, it's somewhere. I prefer the buffing process as it does takeoff the oxidation of the Gel Coat and cover it up. trainman

You might want to send a PM to Forum member - Steve&Betty - I believe that they had a coating applied to their Ollie about a year ago. Bill