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10,000 mile update on Alcan springs: A year had passed since my dreaded roadside leaf spring break and 10,000 miles are on the Ollie with Alcan springs underneath so I thought I would provide my update. Ride height - rear bumper rides approx 1/2” higher than stock Ride performance - first 500 miles seemed a bit stiffer than stock with a few more items from counter and beds on the floor but the springs settled-in after that and there is no observed difference inside the trailer now (no additional stuff found fallen to the floor). Trailer tracks the same as stock, however visible jouncing (up and down) and side to side (roll) are observed to be less pronounced than stock. I also noticed when doing annual bearing maintenance that the spring shackles no longer invert when both wheels on the same side are jacked off the ground. Overall impression - had I known that a heavier capacity, 5-leaf spring, made in the US with US steel and featuring a design with the second leaf which extended all the way under each spring eye was available sooner I would have swapped sooner, just as I had previously done with solid stainless lug nuts and US made Timken bearings. No regrets on the upgrade from stock springs.

There are dealer (and nondealer) service centers that do just fine repairing specific problems on an Oliver. They get on the phone with OTT service and the component manufacturer to make the necessary repair. But for general maintenance and a good look-over specific to an Oliver I would go back to OTT as they know what the issues are for their product. I think this is an important reason why we all wanted OTT to keep their service center - they know the trailer the best. Any issue and they have probably seen it a dozen or more times already.

But - I'm running as fast as I can! And, now you tell me that all this running is for nothing?

All that matters is whether or not the Dealer invests in their business and pays well to keep good mechanics. This is uncommon however, as I to date have yet to find a RV dealer I would trust to do work for me or to pay their high rates for average work. And Hohenwald is too far! Two years ago I had not heard of Oliver and since then I’ve maintained or torn apart every system, better than new. I’m an engineer and auto restoration hobbiest for 50 years, no OTT training here for sure! It’s like when you go to your favorite restaurant and get a bad meal. Then you find out the regular cook had the day off. Everything depends on the mechanic working your repair or service. Oliver is just a travel trailer, no matter how much you and I love them. Service and repairs are not rocket science! I strongly suggest y’all find a good local mobile mechanic. Have your Oliver serviced in your driveway or garage! 🤣

I received a response from Lippert (Girard Awnings). Here is a copy of the response. "Thank you for your response. We have taken note of your selections and confirmed your rally on our calendar. We are excited to kick off a successful rally season together!   Here's what you can expect from Lippert this year: Rally Coupon Code: This will be a discount code provided to all rally goers to use at our online store. This coupon code will be for 20% off any items on our online store. Door Prize/Giveaway: This will be an item selected and donated by Lippert for you to use as a door prize or giveaway for your rally. Welcome Bag Kit: This will include items for attendees with information about Lippert plus a few SWAG items." I was specific that it was for Oliver Trailers, so hopefully it is items we can use.

IF you decide to install a second connector, best practices would be to install a transfer switch between the two and reroute the output through the EMS. Otherwise, there would be no protection from electrical problems while using the front connection. An additional benefit would be that you could then use the front connection as a generator hookup.

Water test went well. I filled the black tank at least half full. Filled the bathroom sink until there was 3" on the floor. Ran several gallons down the kitchen sink. Let everything sit for a couple hours, not a drop anywhere and the height of water in the bathroom floor held without change. All three valves are now renewed. New seals on the black. New valve, seals and pull cable on the gray. Motorized valve on the 1 1/2" gray line from the bathroom. Having an electric switch is amazing! Though I still had the batteries disconnected during the test, so I used the pull handle to manually open the drain. Reinstalled our inverter and connected the batteries and all is good! Pulling the gray waste valve open is feather light with new valve and pull cable. The 144" cable for the black tank waste valve was delayed twice by the USPS, go figure. Leaving today, so this last part will have to wait. For the long black cable an easy way to run it is to first remove the old inner cable. Then cut the old cable sheath at the area under the streetside bed. Insert the new cable through the outside opening and feed it into the sheath and use electrical tape to keep them together. Then detach the old sheath from the waste valve and pull it through from there. This way it will run exactly where the old cable was with minimal effort and neck strain! Another 20-30 minutes of work for me when we return from our short trip. I found that silicone grease on the cables did not help at all, in fact it added to the resistance, making it more difficult to pull and push. On the new cable, I greased the pistons on both ends but not the cable itself. I don't imagine that any of you would be looking forward to doing this work! For me, I'm so happy this is in my past and with no worries for the next many years. 😂

Anything in life worth having is worth working for. — Andrew Carnegie

We actually do offer dust caps for our quick connect fittings, they can find found here: https://goblutech.com/collections/accessories/products/dust-cover-plug-blu-tech-quick-connect

I’m not totally convinced based on her demonstrations. The specific gravity of hydrocarbons is lower than that of water and thus, will float on top of water. However, with enough agitation a hydrocarbon will emulsify with water. Had she aggressively agitated all tests in like manner the results would have likely been similar. Neither product will prevent condensate from developing in ethanol gasoline due to its affinity for water. This is not so with non-ethanol blends and the reason she recommended its use as a preventative, especially in small engines. That said, non-ethanol blends are generally not as available and more costly, so the convenient ‘go-to’ is ethanol. I personally would not use a fuel additive for moisture control in a daily driver where fresh fuel is regularly added. Water is a natural byproduct of combustion and expelled in exhaust, we’ve all seen it dripping out our tailpipes. However, other fuel additive types can be beneficial to boost octane, clean injectors and lubricate upper cylinders. Here’s my take on the subject: for long term storage, whether in a tank (vehicle or small engine) or container, any additive to stabilize the fuel and prevent/deter degradation is a good idea.

She shows the water "disappearing" as it gets "combined chemically" with the Ethanol Shield. I don't find this unbelievable in that for years there have been products that you pour into your gas tank to rid the tank/gas of water. If you watch her video(s) she shows that the water settles to the bottom of the glass as it would in your tank and/or gas can. This means that it will stay there (for the most part) because water doesn't mix well with gas. This is where the Ethanol Shield comes in - it chemically combines with the water such that it is then drawn into the carburetor/engine so that it is burned during combustion. Make sense? As jd1923 points out, some products (like Sta-bil) really do not advertise that they do anything with water in the tank. They are products that primarily prevent gas from becoming "stale" very quickly and forming a "varnish". So, her comparison of Ethanol Shield versus Sta-bil is a bit unfair IMO. Bill

I'm not sure what I'd do if I were in this situation other than try to stay in very close contact with the folks in Oliver Service and I'm sure that I'd be just a frustrated as you must be. From what I know, Oliver is doing all it can - they simply can't get enough of the units quickly enough. Hopefully, Truma can get its production ramped up. Bill

I have not been to a dealer yet, but I suspect this is likely more or less true *for now*, as the dealer network is relatively new to the Oliver product line. Over time this will improve with dealer experience and whatever training the factory is providing for their dealers. Some service activities are just like they'd be in any other brand trailer; some of the Oliver-specific service activities will be easy to train-up on; others will take more time to develop the necessary expertise. Search for online reviews, both good and bad. The success stories will rise to the top!

Ladders are dangerous. Shoulders wear out. The CGI people are a benchmark for customer service and honest/fair dealing. Their work is superb. While they are taking care of my trailer, I can be doing other important things. I go with the CGI program, because I do risk/reward math, have a bad shoulder, have a lot of other things that must be accomplished and only I can do those projects, and I like supporting hard working Americans.

We installed a SmartPlug on our ‘92 Catalina 30 sailboat years ago and never looked back. Installation was dead easy and there’s no issue with the flimsy and hard to thread plastic lock ring as there is on the 30 amp twist lock. From my reading - primarily on marine forums - the so-called 30 amp twist lock plugs used on many sailboats - and our Oliver - is just -barely- capable of handling 30 amps. That assumes clean, tight, good condition contacts. Wear and tear, dirt, corrosion, damage, overheating will degrade the current carrying ability. Sailboats occasionally “burn to the waterline” - and the cause is often overheated “shore power” connections. I was actually a little surprised to find the Oliver had a detachable power cable. Our previous three motor homes (all 70’s-80’s vintage) had cables that pulled out of a port - but were permanently connected at the vehicle end. The only time that this arrangement has been a serendipitous advantage is when we camp out at our marina - where all of the power outlets are twist-locks. We used a shore power cable from our boat to hook up the Oliver. Without that marine cable - we’d have been out of luck. IMHO - the twist lock connection on the side of the trailer is a nuisance. That silly plastic lock ring takes several tries to get started properly because of the interrupted thread, and I’m sure that my other half has cross-threaded it a few times. It’s rare to see a boat with the lock ring still intact. They crack off. Movement of a boat vs a trailer shouldn’t be an issue. Good practice dictates securing the cable away from the connection to make sure the outlet and plug don’t take the strain. Anyway - just look at the contacts on a SmartPlug. They’re much more substantial than the flimsy contacts the twist lock uses. Wider, thicker, more rigid. As for being able to find spares while camping - I don’t see that being an issue. The only way it’s going to fail without warning is if you drive off without disconnecting and shear it off on a post or some equivalent mechanical event. I haven’t upgraded the shore power connector on the Oliver to SmartPlug - but it’s on the list. I may just install a second power connector - probably up on the nose by the tongue - and leave the old one there. Best of both worlds.

The Texas Oliver Rally 2025, for Oliver Owners only, will be held October 20, 21, 22. Checking in Oct 20 and checking out Oct 23 at Lake Mineral Wells State Park. For those interested in attending starting May 20 you can reserve a campsite. A potluck dinner is scheduled for Oct 21 and. BBQ dinner us scheduled for Oct 22. A hall at the campground has been reserved for these dates. Paula Ratcliff has arranged for live music for the potluck dinner. I have contacted Truma and they will have a service rep on site. If you need service, you are to contact Shelley Deisinger at s.deisinger@trumacorp.com be sure and let her know you are at a campsite during our rally. I did reach out to Girard but they let me know they will not be at our rally. A representative of the Oliver approved dealer in Ft Worth, United RV will be providing the BBQ dinner. However I had to reserve the group dining hall at $180 per day, so I hope everyone will contribute to this cost. Hopefully someone from Oliver will also be there. Jason E. Attended our last one.

100% concur with @Mountainman198 Lance's assessment. We pushed through the 10K mile after getting home from the Q last month, logging 10,236 miles since replacing the OEM springs in March 2024 and 7,215 since installing the D52 "Nev-R-Lubes" last MAY. The most noticeable towing attribute after the undercarriage upgrades is the reduction of "porpoising" at slow speeds over relatively rough terrain. Side to side "rocking" seems noticeably less as well. Ride height is measured at approx 1/2" as Lance noted above. We're checking our shocks later this week prior to our next trip (Owner's rally) -- it should be interesting to see if the OEM shocks (replaced with new last MAY w/axles) have any life left in them. Thanks for the report, Lance! See you down the road! Best,

We were there last year. Really enjoyed it. Alas, we have a conflict this year. Everything in the replies above is what I suspected. Just wondered if I was behind the times. Apparently not 😀 Thanks to all y'all.

I don't think the dealers are as well versed in Oliver maintenance as the factory. Given the option, I'd always choose factory service.

Ahh...blue painter and duct tape; my go to tools.

I know nothing about LazyDays. However, a tour of the factory in Hohenwald will help you understand more exactly what you have in a camping trailer. If this visit to Hohenwald does fit into your schedule, I would strongly encourage you to do it. Besides the tour you will get a chance to meet Oliver personnel and get to know them. This might help you down the road when you have a question and/or need help - you will personally know who to call. Bill

I also used Stabil in the past. When I was in the market this year I found this and she was convincing. What's BEST For Storage! Check Out These SHOCKING Results!

Though I’m sure this stuff is great for lubing the valve blades/gates, I’m convinced that the issue I experienced was because of the l-o-n-g cable and the two 90 degree bends, not the valve itself. The valve I removed also showed zero signs of wear, buildup, deposits, scoring, etc - it looks new and the seals were fine. My original symptoms were a black tank T handle that was VERY hard to pull out - to the point I was sure that the plastic T handle would break off. OTOH, it pushed in very smoothly and easily. From past experience with cables of this kind, the cable “core” wears into the cable housing or sheath. This wear happens on the “pull” stroke to the inner radius of the cable bends. There are two 90 degree bends in the blank tank dump cable. Anyway, since I wasn’t keen on temporary fixes like lubing a compromised cable, I opted for the fix OTT suggested: installing an electric valve. Problem solved.

We have our original matresses but have switched to foam. We bought a 10” queen foam mattress at Costco, cut it in half and used the old mattresses as a template for the corner curve. They were very comfortable but a bit tall. We got an 8” gel memory foam queen mattress on Amazon and did the same drill. We’ve had this for the last 2 to 3 years and they are also very comfortable and the height is better. A queen is 60” wide, the Oliver twins are 30” wide, so half a queen mattress. Mike

We have purchased two Brooklyn Bedding high-end hybrid mattresses for our home and love them. Made in Phoenix, so we can drive down to try them out and drive it home. They make their Dreamfoam Essential in a dozen different RV sizes. They roll them up and boxed shipped CONUS no additional charge. We have the twin bed layout, so we bought two 30" x 75" mattresses. They come in 6, 8, 10, 12, 14" sizes. We went with 10" thickness which is a bit tall for sitting but wanted 3 layers of foam density (2 layers in 6-8" mattresses). The 8" might be a better height but firmer and the 10" is med-firm. We removed the stitching in one corner to bare the foam and then with a long insulation knife I cut the radius from a template I made of cardboard. We could have sewn the cover back, but just tacked it and the mattress cover holds it together nicely. Check it out: https://rvmattress.com/products/brooklyn-wanderlust-memory-foam/rv-bunk-30x75-10-inch

Lost my front one last year on the way up to TN. We were in Nashville, were leaving the trailer at CGI Detailing, went to put the front jack down and saw that the foot had departed. My immediate concern was the potential for causing damage, injury, and general mayhem behind me after spitting out a fairly good chunk of metal at high speed on a crowded freeway. Secondarily, did a thorough inspection of the underside to make sure it hadn't put a hole in the fiberglass, much to our relief it had not. Popped over to Oliver since I was in Nashville to pick up a replacement and applied blue Loctite to hopefully avoid any future incidents. Now part of my regular inspection, both front and back. Sounds like this is a recurring event that necessitates repeated close inspection.

After May 20 I will post a link to a Google Sheets so you can add your name and site and if you plan to participate in the potluck and BBQ. It will also have a place for you to put your hull #. It is the only way I know that shows you are an Oliver Owner.

Roger on the locktite....will post next week on the install (so far so good). Thanks :)

Yea, sorry, more details would have helped. We only turn on the Truma Aqua Go when we want hot water, usually morning and evening. We use the Comfort setting, and dial it down to about 109 degrees. All the rest of the day and night it is in the OFF position on the panel (but obviously still ON on the outside switch. We have the full Truma package, so our control panel is the digital Truma CP Plus that controls everything. It is mounted above the SeeLevel panel to the right of the pantry, above the rear dinette. What occasionally happens is the water heater fires up randomly even though it is turned off at the panel. BTW, thanks again for the details on the shower and recirculating system, Mike. It is working beautifully!

We had our Truma burner unit replaced yesterday. Oliver is only getting 15-20+/- burner replacements every 3-4+ weeks. It is going to be a long process. As their letter stated you can get it done by an approved Truma repair company and Oliver will reimburse you. Oliver was very proactive on this and unfortunately a number of Owners have been disrespectful to Oliver Service. Just hook up and go camping. Things will get done.

We just returned from CGI detailing in Murfreesboro. I was amazed by how fantastic our Oliver looked after their detailing and ceramic coat application. The trailer is absolutely stunning. The guys were fantastic, did great work and were fun to talk to on drop off and pickup. We would strongly recommend them for their excellent work. Our trailer is only 18 months old and the improvement in its shine is awesome.

Finishes up everything today. I installed so much HW and wiring behind the panels there is so much room now inside! Blu-ray/DVD on the shelf, lower shelf empty after deleting the Wally. Room for a small box of DVDs, my extra Dewalt charger, Chris' fan, another very important tool and of course my hat! Football on everyday this weekend. Version 2 of this upgrade is done again. 😂

While finishing up the Attic wiring and another install today, it was hard to find the two LARGE holes I filled months ago that were the original streetside corner TV mounts. Also today, I used almost the last of my Marine-Tex to fill all the screw holes and the large openings for the front camera and the front-corner mounted Wi-Fi booster. We'll see tomorrow after some sanding, posting results in my other thread, re rooftop repair. I just ordered another Marine-Tex kit for future use, good to have on hand!

Oliver has used at least two different colors of gelcoat through the years. The current models are a much brighter white that the older ones.

Fiberglass repair is really not very difficult to do as long as you don't mind filling - sanding, filling - sanding, repeat (plenty of YouTube vids and info available over at the FiberglassRV.com forum). The biggest issue is getting the gel coat color to match. The folks at Oliver should be able to tell you exactly what color you have and even (perhaps) send you a small amount of it. I know that they spray it on for any of the small repairs that I've seen them do. Good luck! Bill

Fiberglass work by Oliver or a marine shop that does fiberglass repairs.

I reworked all the "Attic" wiring while adding this antenna. Check out the first picture. It's not funny! The Oliver family should not employ anybody who cannot cut a square rectangular opening! They also used a 1 1/4" hole saw for the 12V outlet that requires a 1 1/8" opening. And look at how the two screw holes at the bottom of the panel are lined up. I used the original hole for the new Winegard antenna controller and drilled a new hole to install the dual USB port. The simple power strip and an HDMI switch (choose between TV tuner or Blu-ray player) are both mounted with VHB tape. Our WHITE and amazing Samsung 32" high-rez monitor, its screen only 1/2" thick, has no internal TV tuner. I added a remote digital HDTV tuner. You cannot see this in the install since it is behind the panel. It's powered by USB and HDMI is the output. Simple, inexpensive and works well: https://a.co/d/7YBYzxw Check out all the wires in the bottom RH corner of the second picture. The TV tuner, the TV power supply and all extra cabling is behind the panel. The Winegard controller has cable inputs and output behind the panel too. The cable TV input you see in front is extra if needed. I should have taken a picture behind the panel.

UPDATE on our A/V system installation - Back in June 2023 when we purchased our Oliver, I thought the Winegard Dish Sat setup was a nice option to have. We got a Wally receiver and used it on one spring trip to Utah. We soon realized the monthly cost of the Dish Network, even paying a month at a time, was too much money for the value. I would prefer an antenna to view occasional local broadcast TV when traveling without monthly service fees. I just removed the Winegard satellite dish. I wished OTT had never installed this system for all the related repair work, though I will reuse the same coax feed for a new antenna. After some antenna research, I went with the Winegard Rayzar Automatic Antenna RZ-8500. It has the advantage of being self-adjusting, automatically turning the antenna for the strongest signals. These are expensive at over $400. Months ago, after looking on-and-off, I found a new unit from a private eBay Seller for $250 shipped! Living in Prescott AZ, broadcast HDTV is bounced off Mingus Mountain (think Jerome AZ) to the north of us, from Phoenix 100 miles to our south. Also, our Oliver is now parked behind our garage blocking line-of-sight to the repeater. However, the Rayzar antenna still found 13 frequencies, with subchannels connecting to 30 stations. This antenna works very well. I did not want a directional antenna that would need manual adjustments. It may appear that I’m removing one eyesore for another, but the new antenna is much smaller. The Dish Sat was a monster at 13” tall with 20” diameter. The Rayzar is half the height at 6 ½” and 15” round (notice screw holes from old unit in the picture). It is far less noticeable on the Oliver roof, just 2” taller than the solar panels and hardly noticeable from ground level. In the picture nothing is mounted, until all the fiberglass work is completed. The new antenna will be held tight with 3M 4950 VHB tape, no screws!

I’ll say yes. My trailer is outside 24/7/365 and has been since being purchased in 2017. I have washed/waxed it at least twice a year over the years and gradually the shine had disappeared. When I’d do a thorough job, it would take me four days. No telling how many times I’d move the ladder or how many times I would climb up and down it. One of the last times I washed/waxed it I fell off of the ladder, hit the rear bumper and ladder on the way down to my asphalt driveway. I was lucky enough not to break anything. Since having the trailer coated it is much easier to wash and a quick spritz of the CGI magic elixir and it shines better than new. More important than the shine is the long term protection of the gelcoat. Additionally, as everyone else has said, is the fact that the CGI guys are the finest group of guys that you’ll ever meet.

It really depends on how particular you are about how your ollie looks and also how you store it. I have ceramic on both my truck and my wife's car. Her car lives in the garage and still looks and washes like the day the ceramic was applied. My truck lives outdoors and the ceramic started to fail after the 2.5 year mark. If I stored my trailer indoors then the ceramic would be a no brainer but since my Oliver lives outside at a storage facility I just wash it occasionally and but and wax every 6 months. Does it look perfect, no, but the great part about gelcoat is that it can always (within reason) be brought back to life with a little effort. John

I cannot deny that the Ceramic Coat work performed by CGI is top shelf. I have seen a couple Ollies with this treatment and they are spectacular. That said, my E2 lives outdoors, uncovered 24/7x365 and lasted three years with 2x/yr hand washing and waxing before it started to show signs of light oxidation. I took the dive and bought a Makita rotary buffer and a forced-rotation DA polisher and did the top half this Fall. Looks good enough for who it is for and I enjoyed the physical activity and the chance to get intimate with my trailer. This direction is subject to change as I age of course, but for now the $3k sits in my bank account.

I have always been self sufficient. Ever since I was a young man, a kid even, I would refuse to pay anyone for something I could do myself. The first job I ever tackled on my own was fixing the crank on my bicycle. I was 12. From that point on, the toys got bigger and the repairs did as well. Instead of hiring someone, I bought tools and learned how to do it. That progressed to the point that I now have a shop, $20k (probably more) worth of tools and have enough trade knowledge in my head that I can do just about anything. Is it worth it? To me it is. I have literally built houses, cabinets, plumbing, electrical work, I have rebuilt a few engines that actually worked afterwards and I have never paid anyone a penny for it. On top of that, it has built wealth for me. I will die with more money left in the bank than I can spend unless the country falls apart and the dollar tanks. But even then, I will have the knowledge and the tools to keep going. Do it all again. Until I get old and spend $3000 to get my Oliver detailed. :)

You were one of the first... probably THE first... to have your trailer ceramic coated. I remember talking to Colin and he said you watched him and the crew the whole time they did the job. I told him that if you were willing to refer them... there was no better endorsement they could have. Well worth it... Now I have to find a detail shop to wash my trailer after each trip. Scotty

I can’t afford $3K on an older hull which has set and will sit in the AZ sun year after year. I’m getting less work annually on my job and inflation adding to 30% over the last 4 years makes it worse. Given two young men at 1 1/2 days that’s 24 hours. Say $120 for buffing compounds, this comes to $120/hr. I’m not getting near that with a MSIE degree teaching professionals for PMP certification. It’s a crazy number for manual labor! I can see $75 max. This comes to $1,920. Another example: OTT wants “on special” $1000 labor only to wire the Oliver, not the TV too, for a DC-DC charger, equally crazy. Call it 6 hours and it comes to $167/hr. Glad I do my own electrical and mechanical work, though buffing/waxing is not worth taxing my body! The CGI young men are so nice, witnessed by them serving us dinner at Inks Lake! If I was in my 20s making over $100/hr I’d be grinning ear-to-ear too! Love when my wife Chris says, “Why does a trailer have to be so shiny?”

Mounting holes are the same. Easy peasy. Use a little Dawn to lubricate the power cord to get it through the rubber reinforcement entering the orange housing. That was the hardest part.

We did this about a year and 1/2 ago because we had some melted wire at the connection interface while running the AC with a 12 gauge extension cord. I like it and have had no problems since converting to it. Fairly easy install. The connection is more secure IMO and easier to connect/disconnect.

I'm a newby. Where's the 30 amp fuse you refer to? I don't believe I have a DC master switch. We have a 2022 LE2 with Xantrex 3000 and the 390Ah batteries (3 units).

Absolutely, right on @SeaDawg! We've still got a few years left of doing our own "Wax-On/Wax-Off" drill before we hire someone else to do it for us... We believe it's got to be done in either case to avoid the oxidation/chalking of the gelcoat - one way or another, we'll get 'er done!

We like the Ceramic coating on our truck and it does make a difference. I would strongly encourage a price check on having your Ollie done. An Ollie owner on FB recently had his LE2 completely done in Arizona for $1900.00. This also included all of his windows with a 5 year warranty. Patriot🇺🇸

No question about that! Meeting the 4 guys that are the crew for CGI is a real treat - young (relative to me anyway), energetic, personable, and not afraid of real work! However, if you get a chance, it is also a treat to meet the parents of Gavin - such nice people. When you do you will realize just why he has the qualities mentioned above. Not only does Twist look better than it did the day I took delivery, but at least some of my faith in the future of our country has been restored by these individuals. Bill