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Well - As with the fridge vents Oliver really doesn't HAVE to cut out these spaces to include the space for the sign hole. In fact, when the new fridge was adopted Oliver simply didn't cut out that part of the outside hull and to help "cover" the now flat area they engineered a fold out table in that space. So, that begs the question as to why Oliver has decided to continue with the "third brake light" Oliver sign. All I can tell you is that there has only been one Oliver Travel Trailer that has come off the production line without that area lighting up as an "Oliver" sign*. That trailer is mine and when Mr. Oliver happen to see it on the production line he was not happy and ordered that every Oliver would have that sign that says it is an Oliver from then on. I'd suggest that this shows how strongly Mr. Oliver felt about using that space for advertising exactly what brand of trailer was going down the road. Bill *note: there are at least three Olivers other than my "Twist" that also do not say "Oliver" in that third brake light space. But, in each of the other cases the owner had the Oliver lettering replaced with another name. "Olivia" and "ILUVHER" are two of the others and I can't remember the third.

So far I've only heard from two owners (hull's 45 and 251) regarding these hull plaques for older Ollies. Time is running a bit short, but, if anyone else with an older Ollie that does not presently have one of these (nicely done) hull plaques and would like one - please let me know ASAP. Bill

Good morning Folks. I have a friend who has a car lift in his Mancave at Treasure Coast Vault and we are going to use that to lift the units on and off. I am giving him the Dometic for his Race Car Trailer for installing the unit. I ordered a 2 wire Honeywell battery powered thermostat for the Gas Heater so that I can give him the control box for the Dometic. I am thinking the drain will prolly be abandoned.

On the screen door. I will take a photo of it next time I go out to the trailer. Also, when in Alaska we asked the locals what was the best way to get ride of the mosquitos once they get into the trailer as they are extremely hard to "get" with all the curved surfaces in our trailers. Answer we got and we have since proved it works great is "Windex spray bottle on mist. Knocks them right out of the air and it smells good at the same time". Also, helps keep the trailer all nice and shiny inside when we wipe it clean. LOL.

With regards to this issue, specifically the jack making contact to the underside of the access panel, it is something I have seen in the past and was a result of the bracket welded to the side of the Barker Jack being mounted too high. I was just recently brought into the know on this issue and advised Mike because manufacturing had not provided him with an answer. The proper channel for issues that Mike or the new Jason do not fully know how to resolve, should be escalated to manufacturing so that the engineer & quality managers can review and see if there is specific information needed. I have a meeting scheduled between Service and Manufacturing on a weekly basis so that escalated issues can be resolved in a more timely manner or at least to request more pictures, more information or a service visit. I will address with the departments that this took a month as we should be in contact at minimum on a weekly basis. Regarding the warranty of the jack, if that is the actual issue as I am making an assumption of what I have seen before, then it would fall under the Barker Manufacturing warranty which is for a 1-year warranty period. If we can verify that the issue is due to an improper placement of the bracket, Barker may still cover it under warranty but it would be something we would have to reach out to them about once we have the definite cause of the issue. In an out of warranty situation I also recommend the customer also reaching out to the vendor, in this case Barker, as they are more apt to cover out of warranty items for customers rather than when we ask. Also, please note that most warranties are only extended to the original purchaser of the product and they may require proof of purchase.

I hate that! I still have it on my list to remove all the old caulk on our 10-year-old hull. Our hull went for OTT service in 2018 and 2020 according to receipts I have. They must have done all the messy caulk on top of caulk work, yes sloppy to say the least. What a shame on your only 1-year-old hull! There is no reason in the world they should have gone over yours. Caulk should last YEARS and caulk over caulk is never a good idea! Here is an example of the handywork of such an over-zealous artist! 😞 Picture is after travel on a dirt road which makes it show fully --

Here’s a quick and easy shortcut! After following this thread, I decided to clean our window tracks too. We live in the rain forrest and they were full of redwood needles, moss, dirt and mildew. The white rubber seals were terribly stained even after a hard scrubbing with a stiff brush. I was going to order new seals until I gave them a quick soak in “30 Second Outdoor Cleaner” from Ace Hardware. It's amazing! They looked brand new. I picked up some pipe cleaners to clean the track, but I didn’t need them. Instead I used a straight brush and a water hose nozzle. The water jet went under the fixed window section and washed all kinds of dirt out of the weep holes. I just pulsed the water jet until it ran clear. We moved the bedding and seat cushions out of the way, but there was minimal leakage inside. I'll be doing this every year now. Cheers, Geoff

You REBELL !!

After 25 pages of comments, it's been jacked a few times. All anybody needs regarding the Alcan Leaf Spring mod is the read the first couple of pages. 🤣

Nothing like "A Post Hijack"🤣

Yes, I have noticed that all the screen doors on the Oliver trailers (many different year models) do not match the curve in the fiberglass. This is what I used when going to Alaska to keep the mosquitos out. https://a.co/d/7h8kzG5 It is weather stripping (furry stuff that is on the screen door from factory). I just put some on the opposite surface where it does not meet. Worked well and still on the trailer 2 years later.

The shipment came from them in Hays KS. Everything was legit. I watch my credit cards online weekly or more often. They did all the right things. Some of these YouTubers are just in for the hits (look at this guy)! You also linked Trust Pilot which which is 84% positive with 170 reviews. Too bad the price went up. Lovin' ours one week out on our trip and the food quality far exceeds the Weber Q, having dual burners, indirect cooking and a griddle plate. It's worth $329 if you need to go retail. Of course when ever we shop online the whole dark-web of marketing today (the 2nd oldest profession, don't get me started) has your number and will be selling you, unless you search through a highly protective VPN.

So the rear Oliver lense strikes again.... I would also check those marker lights. The one under the O of the Oliver sign especially. If it leaks, the water would run down its supply wire where it looks like it touches your TV cables. The water would then continue down that cable and into the cabin. All those wires up there with no drip loops designed in are are major pathway for water to travel to far off places. I had drips out my rear speaker from one of those marker lights.... Cheers, Dave

For anyone with the harbor freight flagpole and the Starlink mini, a 1 1/4 inch PVC union works perfectly with the mount that comes with the starlink. You just need to drill new holes for the clear support ring a little lower down to make room for the PVC.

After returning home I was able to better investigate the water issue. Turns out the attic was not dry. It was wet underneath the white insulation layer. I was able to easily peal the the insulation up. The leak was coming from the Oliver Sign. The caulk had dried and cracked. It is actually amazing how much water could get in from that source. All things considered this was the best scenario for the source of the leak. I was able to remove all the old caulk and re-caulk the sign.

When I picked up my New Ollie LE 2 in 2021 the Remote Panel wasn't working. I called Xantrex many times and installed a new Remote panel and Cable all to no avail. I gave up. The Inverter charger always worked but checking settings was a Yoga Class! So last week I had some time and called Xantrex. The Rep read my notes from previous calls on her computor. Talked to her manager and they sent a new XC 3000. It was the communication board on the old one that was faulty. I installed it and everything is working fine now!!! Just wanted to put a thank you here to both Oliver and Xantrex Tech. They really went the extra mile for me.

Yes, they look nice, and there is more to come! 😊

Another sneak peak from Oliver about the new windows, to me they don’t look like acrylic, but hopefully dual pane! https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1CDPcaif7x/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Bill, the new (2024+) don’t have the fridge vent holes on the side anymore, so wondering why (with new molds anyway) couldn’t they leave out the Oliver sign hole, or maybe they have?

There is a long storied history in this regard - much of which I don't know. But, as with virtually all other "engineered" things in the Oliver even this is not as "simple" as it may seem. Bill

All set. But you have to question the logic behind putting a hole in a solid fiberglass camper just to caulk a plexiglass sign into it!!

Like Bill @topgun2 mentioned, look under streetside bed where you should see the big red Blue Sea switch shown left in the picture. You likely have the same Blue Sky solar controller too. Our screen door has a 1/4" gap all the way around it, but it does touch the fuzzy edges and seals OK.

Mine, I call the "old man's bike!" It's an '03 CRF230, much detuned from the Motorcross CRF250s. The seat is also lower, so you can straddle the bike, both feet on the ground. And of course, it has electric start. I rebuilt everything on it 5-6 years ago; new tires, brake fluid and fork oil, HD springs for the 200+ LB rider, new seals, cleaned the carb, etc. It rides great and right in Prescott we have a state OHV recreation site called Alto Pit. It was a granite quarry and they have 30-40 groomed and banked trails. Adam and I have been riding there for 20 years. It's a blast! 🤣 I really want to travel with this bike, my 1970 Yamaha R5! Though it needs everything done. I have all the parts it needs including new seat foam and cover, NOS taillights, carb kits, etc. Somehow I just found this picture online and it is the exact bike I own, same seat tears, America Flag Peace sticker on the side cover, bought in Florida 9 years ago for $900. I'd put some enduro tires on it for trail riding. This is a 350cc 2-stroke that can get up to highway speeds in just a couple of heartbeats! Second pic is an example of restored R5!

Check under the street side bed for that switch - what you're looking for is a large red switch . Bill

No worries. I have a 1979 Husky 390WR that I would put on my tongue, balanced-out by a hitch-mounted Big Green Egg on the back

Pretty common with these RV doors.

I will send you a PM. Mossey

The highways in Kansas are nearly perfect, everywhere we drove! I had not driven on highways so smooth since what I remember of I-64 in VA during the 70s when that Interstate was a new road (moved to VA from the pothole city known as Chicago). The roads in AZ and NM are terrible, and even worse where Fed funds are needed as in US highways and Interstates! We headed to Manhattan Kansas, picked the location for some pickleball courts we found on the PicklePlay app. We made an inquiry on Harvests Hosts but after the courts listed were not to be found and the host site looked like a construction co lot, we drove north of town to stay the night a Tuttle Cove a ACOE campsite. $12 with the senior pass. Windy when we got there and perfectly calm the next morning, a very nice spot and what an amazing dam!

Maybe all you need is to adjust the shoes out. Something you can do quickly on the road vs. a full brake job. Lift one side at a time using the Oliver jacks. If the wheels spin freely without hearing or feeling any brake drag, then they need adjusting. I was able to rock the wheels backwards first and then forward, while Chris was lightly on the brake pedal (or using the actuating lever on the brake controller), and the self-adjusters would click tighter each time. If this does not work, or if you're working alone, first place a jack stand for safety, and get under on the back side of each wheel, remove the rubber plugs and adjust each by turning the gear through the opening. The wheels should spin of course, but when the shoes are close, adjusted correctly, the wheels should slow down and stop spinning soon enough.

Let's just go with Xantrex Customer Service is Excellent now

JD: Thanks on the axle replacement info. On the brake controller: The last time I checked it, it was pumping right at 3 amps to each of the four disks. Easy to measure at each wheel with a driver helper up front. Or set the clamp on meter to record max amp reading and make trips forward to mash the brake. Regardless I'll check the amps again in July when I'm back your direction. So less likely a controller issue. When I'm on long downhill grades I routinely check the drum temperatures with an IR gun. They are all pretty consistent. The brakes are working but not as hard as I would like to see. It may just be adjustment. Or..... I am thinking it is more of a friction issue in the drums. Getting the power but not turning it into new OEM level movement and force against the drums. I will be doing my annual axle bearing service in July. I'll also be looking at the drum brake linings, I likely will fully pull apart the Dexter brakes. Then Brake Clean the heck out of everything, and brake lube the pivot and slide points of the actuators. Over the past 7 seasons I think they likely have gone dry or sticky. And of course snugly adjust the brake linings to optimum. Then the acid test is to do a parking lot skid mark test at about 15 to 20 MPH. No black marks with the controller set on at max controller.... Time for a more serious actions... possibly even the consideration of a trip to ALCON after our camping in AZ. GJ

As always, my friend GJ... You ask the hard questions! ❤️ Q1) There was an earlier post re the 5200 LB axles being just under $1K each. Q2) I would go with OEM bearings and consider the Timken upgrade 10K miles later. Q3) Yes, the Oliver with 6-bolt rims which from the start are spec'd to match 5200 axles, 3500 axles are usually mated to 5-bolt wheels with made in China tires. Q4) Factory upgrade! 🤣 Are you kiddin' me?! Let's say for example, I wanted to pay $1500 for my DC-to-DC charger installation after driving 2K miles to a sleepy town in TN and have the older Victron model installed (closeout special) instead of the Orion XS 50A and afterwards have somebody off the street wire my truck, the TV side of the install? Not, you get my meaning? Many members here have on their way to an amazing Rocky Mountain trip, stopped by Alcan to have their suspension upgraded. Our friend Ken and Mary Kay will be there next week. I will build mine at home, I'm thinking summer of 2026! Lastly, GJ! Given your OEM Ford brake controller is numbering up at the end of the gain setting, please consider replacing it! We do not have a factory option brake controller, though I just replaced a failing aftermarket component with new, it's a light-n-day difference! Your brake controller is failing and needs replacing. Two weeks ago I did not understand this, v\but true.

Upon further review- While the Amazon site doesn't show any certifications, I decided to check the ETL website and the Airplus *is* ETL certified! No idea why they wouldn't include that in their specs... I hereby remove my red flag @Ollie-Haus. ETL listing

With storage space at a premium, we have been using this Pro Breeze since Feb of 2020. - https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Breeze-Electric-Dehumidifier-Portable it has served us well and packs up small. It is quiet and has an automatic shut off when it becomes full. We store it on the closet floor when underway.

Barker did the welding. Problem could be there. OTT likely drilled the holes in their bracket. Problem could be there. .....Leaving you holding the bag. Seems like a joint discussion is between them. Regardless IF OTT Manufacturing has spare in stock, which they sometimes do not, they could ship you one. If not then they would have to send Barker the bracket, if they have a bracket in stock. Which last year they did not have as well. .......In which case you are still holding the bag. So ... OTT oh so rarely does not make things right. If there is going to be a delay, I would consider shimming up the hatch with a ring of 3/4" X 1" trim. If you have a foam pad over the OEM cushions you would not notice the difference while OTT/Barker sort it out. 🙂

Cut out the sealant and recaulk it Not sure what sealant Oliver uses. Give them a call. Install gutters over the sign and windows.

Chris: Thanks for starting this great post, and video! One suggestion that I do may help during wanding efforts: Raise or lower your front jack to assist the water flow to the next weep. Gravity is a wonderful thing... occasionally anyway. For this purpose it is. Certainly made my window weep process faster. Also having some really long pipe cleaners to push and scrub in places you can't get to. GJ PS: Recommend not going too steep as water will pass by one drain hole and could over flow inside at the low end. Figured that one out all by my self! Sadly!

This is not a matter of talking sense into anyone, but only a matter of knowing a bit of the history of these older plaques. Anyone that has an older Ollie without a hull # plaque should contact me. Bill

What’s happening over there? This is as bad as them telling @John Dorrer $1000 to replace the main battery breaker (that went bad) with an ANL fuse and holder ($73 parts retail and an hour of labor). Ours has the #113 plaque which must have been added during a 2020 service. I would pass if I had to buy one. And come on, #45 is a true classic! Hopefully Bill can talk some sense in them…

Well, that's not the case anymore... Inquired about a month or so ago and they said they wouldn't send one out for free anymore. They are more than happy to sell me one for $237.00 dollars though! 😲

I can’t speak to the breaker tripping, but we had a repeated issue with error 20 that was resolved with firmware updates for the xantrex. I seem to remember there were three updates, one for the inverter, one for the remote and one for communications. There are kind of a pain with multiple steps and very specific folder names but otherwise easy. Good luck. We have no had any breaker tripping issues.

He lives in the desert, sonit kinda makes sense. You never know when a Graboid will break into his goll dern wreck room. edit: hint

That is more boondocking than I have had time for, unfortunately. If I could get away from my job long enough to need that much water, I would absolutely love to carry extra hoses with me. My boondocking experience so far has been two days near a water supply I couldn’t quite reach with my abundance of hoses.

Hm. 3? Maybe 5. 3 is just a buzz.

If you start with 3 beers it makes the process go a bunch easier - you don't give a ....! Bill

Make that more of us.

I'm hoping those of you with hull #s >1000 have better water pumps installed by OTT. There are 100s of RV water pump options today! Eight (8) years ago we got this OEM installed pump (pic 1) and with my recent upgrade I installed this instead (pic 2). Retail it's $80 vs $200 and at OEM cost it's likely $40 more which anybody paying $100K larger for a high-end TT should get. Penny-wise and pound-foolish, as they say.

That’s so interesting! Thank you for the history on the numbers.

Hi Mike and Carol, I purchased my device from Lone Star Tracking. The particular model hasn't been available for months (because I wanted to get the same one), but I'm sure their other models are good too. Originally I had a little difficulty setting it up (I'm not very IT savvy), but immediately reached a helpful person when I called and he walked me right thru it. The device has been working well, as I get my text messages almost immediately upon moving the trailer. I cannot remember what I paid for it, but I want to say somewhere in the $100 to $200 range. My model was a subscription service which added (I think) $130 a year. The benefit to this one is that it updates the location every couple of minutes (vs. per hour or longer) and it is world-wide tracking - I don't think it'd go that far, but I love my Ollie, so I'm prepared for anything!