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Thanks to all who have provided valuable insights and photos. As we have had a busy travel schedule on the road, I have not yet had the opportunity to pull the drawers under the sink or to inspect the underside of the fresh water tank overflow tube in Hull #1291. For now, we are carefully filling the fresh water tank when we need to boondock, until our pre-planned schedule allows me time to try to "get to the bottom" of what caused our problem. We will be on the road until the end of October. I hope to be able to investigate once we get back home. I will then report my findings, if any.

I have been following along without anything to add, but I now have a few thoughts. The fresh water overflow discharge port is, in the words of Google: So it looks like a 2 piece fitting that requires access to the inside and outside of the hull to install, service or remove. So the next step requires a modification to the floor below the bottom drawer below the sink. This picture of the area below the sink without the drawers in place. The blue square surrounds a cutout in the rear wall that OTT provided for access to the refrigerator 120V outlet. The red square surrounds a cutout in the floor that I made with a router, using the walls as a guide. This access was needed for a prior plumbing modification. It may also provide access to the freshwater overflow port that would be needed for the installation, removal or repair. Both of the access ports are normally covered with a thin piece of plywood. My MOP for sanitizing the freshwater tank in hull 193, begins by mixing several ounce of chorine or a quart of hydrogen peroxide in a 5 gallon water jug and using the boondocking port to pump it into the freshwater tank. I then fill the tank using a hose at the freshwater fill bib. I am generally in the area of the Ollie while doing the sanitation job, but I do not monitor the amount of water going in, I just wait for it to overflow. And I do use a pressure regulator set to 40 lbs. whenever connecting a hose to the freshwater tank or city water bibs. Mossey

In addition to the Oliver regional rallies, there are also fiberglass rallies with more and more Olivers in attendance. Here in Ohio, the Casitas of Ohio put on a spring kick-off fiberglass rally and a fall rally. This past spring there were five Oliver’s in attendance out of maybe 20-25 total trailers. The Florida Eggs n S’mores fiberglass rally in January had at least a dozen Oliver’s. Hungry Mother fiberglass rally in Western Virginia had five Olivers. And there are similar rallies all over the country.

Here’s another photo that shows how it is installed. Replacing that screen is now on my task list. Thanks to @Wayfinder for bringing the screen situation to our attention, I would probably have never noticed it. And thanks to @Rivernerd for alerting us to a potential problem. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/11495-fresh-water-tank-overflow-condition/#comment-126984

Agreed, a screen insert makes sense to keep insects out. Filter material, why? It does look like a filter, but there's no need to filter waste water! The finer the screen or filter material, the quicker it will muck up, and eventually be closed shut. Thanks for the picture! I suggested the scope and now I need to get one! The screen/mesh looks somewhat clogged up. Who knows what has collected above it in your 5 years, our 11 years? Hull #1291 has at most 4 years of use! Could be one of those hole-saw plugs from the tank installation stuck along the path. It irks me how lazy "professional installers" can be. With the right tool it would take a few seconds to retrieve the plugs and a blast of compressed air to quickly clean out the new tank. Fill the tank more slowly? Filling up at Maverick on our last trip, It took over 10 minutes to fill the tank (28 gal on the counter) and the hose had a very good flow rate. Because it's so slow, I now start filling the fresh tank and dump tanks while it's taking its time filling. For me the 1/2" PEX plus the OEM restrictor makes the incoming water flow slow enough. I'll be checking and likely removing this "filter" instead. On my long list is also removing the Fresh and City Water line restrictors (they restrict flow vs. pressure). Everybody in every RV forever has run the hose until the tank overflows. Camping is supposed to be fun! 🤣 Is the "plastic flanged bulkhead fitting" removable, so serviceable? The screen is relatively close to the bottom, so there's hope. Given @Rivernerd's experience, I would certainly try to remove that fitting and see if the screen/filter is serviceable. If not, I would take long auger drill bit and turn it by hand slowly into the screen, trying to grab as much of it as possible for removal. Try to remove as much as possible with the bit, wider bits and other tools. Then use the scope again to see if it's clear all the way up and down into the tank. Finally, take a piece of stainless steel screening material, shape it into a cone and insert it at the very bottom. This screen insert could be removed later easily with a needle-nose pliers. It will be interesting to find out the end result here. I imagine a lot of us will be looking up that overflow tube soon enough!

We happened to be camping at Stone Mountain SP NC a few weeks ago when the Carolina Casitas were having a gathering, they invited us to join their Facebook group, so we did! Nice group of folks. Hope to attend Eggs on the Hiawassee River GA gathering held during June. They also have a Facebook group. We attended a couple of Hungry Mother SP VA Fiberglass gatherings attended by various fiberglass owners including Ollie owners. If I remember correctly one of the Oliver owners attending had a hand in making Peach and Cherry cobblers, too! 🙂

From the looks of those long tanks, and knowing that the level sensors are on the ends, just a few degrees off lengthwise level could result in significant tank level inaccuracies! Good picture! @Hokieman

I have been making my way east towards the rally, and visiting a few lakeside and riverside campgrounds. West Rolling Hills campground on Milford Lake, view from my campsite in Loop A West Rolling Hills is an Army Corp of Engineers cg located alongside Milford Lake, Milford SP, Milford Wildlife Area, Fish Hatchery, Nature Center.... https://www.recreation.gov/camping/campgrounds/233608 Milford Lake is huge (I think over 15,000 acres) fed by the Republican River. Lots of fishermen, and I saw photo evidence from the camp host of a massive 54 pound catfish he caught the day I arrived. I didn't use any services there, but will attest to the friendliness of the host and other campers, and the clean conditions everywhere around the lake. A beautiful campsite. Sunset from the Prairie Meadow campground in Elk City State Park Elk City SP is west of Independence Kansas. This was a late arrival and early departure for me, but I enjoyed this sunset when I went walking after setting up. The campground overlooks Elk City Lake. There were lots of birds, including Barred Owls and Screech Owls near the campsite! The Current River is lined with vegetation, but walking trails provide direct access from some campsites in Big Spring cg Big Spring Campground in Ozark National Wild & Scenic River is also very pleasant. I've camped there a couple of times. It's a bit of a thrill (rollercoaster) driving to the campground along a narrow winding rolling road, but the campground and the river are beautiful. They have separate buildings for hot and cold showers, and offer other amenities. sunset from my campsite in Eureka Campground, Kuttawa KY Eureka Campground in Kuttawa KY is along the Cumberland River, overlooking The Land Between The Lakes. This is another ACOE campground, and another great location for fishing. The sites are mostly spacious with picnic tables and separate fish-cleaning tables at the site, fire pits and direct lake access from the campsite. There are tons of things to see and do near Land Between the Lakes. I plan to come back to this area. Oh! And about that 54 pound fish.... here's the camp host Tony with his catch at West Rolling Hills cg in Junction City KS

Almost as bad as having a catastrophic blowout in the middle lanes of six on an interstate at 60mph. Use your own judgement. Your mileage may vary...

Be a bit careful with your reservations for the Hiawassee rally in that they really do get crowded. They do have an "overflow" area but I can not recommend it. Also, if you go be sure to get to the pot luck dinner early because all seats under cover will be gone quickly. Bill Hiawasee artwork-2017-1 - Copy-2.tif

That's a Through-hull marine fitting. Oliver probably added the insect screen. I looked at mine with a mirror and it doesn't have that black stuff. Me thinks it's clogged! I'd try poking a piano wire through the mesh while slowly adding water to the tank to see if it flushes out. Catch it in a white container to see what it is.

I've met with another couple of Olivers on the road! One on my way to Elk Mountain Campground at Wind Cave, south of Hot Springs SD (Terry & Terri Hand, Hull #143) And then last week I met Kathy & Nancy who were locals from Abilene Kansas camping at West Rolling Hills Campground, on Milford Lake. Kathy couldn't quite remember her hull number; she thought it was 17xx but it was a 2022. It's always great to meet another Oliver on the road.

Well I just crawled under there to get a better understanding of the drain port. Ours is in the form of a plastic flanged bulkhead fitting that appears to extend about four inches up through the bottom hull just off the aft corner of the fridge compartment. It’s ID is about 3/4 inch and upon shining a light up inside, there is a fine mesh screen at the upper end and it appears to have a black fiberish filter material on top of the screen. There’s board dividing the fridge compartment from the galley drawer space, so no access to the drain from the outside fridge access panel. My guess is the mesh and what appears to be a filter material are there to prevent anything from getting into the freshwater tank through the drain. But this also would restrict the flow of water during the filling process. Sounds like there’s a few questions for Oliver service to better understand the principle of design and of course what to do if this filter/mesh becomes clogged over time.

High pressure could cause enough turbulence to splash water up to the overflow tube creating gurgling and an air lock. An air lock can effectively block the vent tube. It's not uncommon, even with large industrial tanks! It's also possible that floating debris blocked the overflow tube as the tank filled, then it floated away afterwards. This is intermittent and it's happened with hole-saw plugs that were left in the tank during fabrication. I've always instinctively filled the freshwater tank very slowly, just a crack of the valve. The overflow tube is no match for my hose pressure and volume, and the tank is not designed to be pressurized.

Edit: @Steve and MA was quicker on the keyboard than me but I will leave additional thoughts below. I've always monitored the fresh overflow and fill rate closely when filling and flushing the fresh tank. I make sure my fill rate is very slow as the overflow is nowhere near large enough to accommodate a high fill rate. As soon as water starts sputtering out the overflow I shut the supply off. If I want to flush the system for and extended period, I reduce the flow to a fast trickle and monitor while working around the trailer. The holding tanks are not pressure rated, and even at a relatively low supply pressure such as 25psi, a fill rate say 10% faster than the overflow rate would slowly "inflate" the holding tank. It all depends on the overflow capacity to keep up the the fill rate. A strong stream at the overflow in my mind indicates a pressurized system and needs to be shut down immediately. Related to jd's comment above, I just happened to purchase a smart phone borescope earlier this morning on Amazon for other reasons, but realize it will be perfect for inspecting various concealed and hard to reach spaces on the Oliver. This may be just the tool for @Rivernerd to purchase for his evaluation, and keep onboard for future inspection needs. https://a.co/d/00rWQwkn

That begs a question. What's the internal diameter of the overflow tube? If it's equal to, or larger than, the shoreline hose and the plumbing leading to the tank, wouldn't they have the same flow rate?

Reading through this thread, something that hasn't been mentioned as a possible cause is the flow rate of the water filling the tank. Though a water pressure regulator will inherently slow the water flow due to its restrictive internal passages, it's meant to restrict pressure (PSI) not rate (GPM). If water can enter the tank faster than the overflow tube can purge the excess, then the flexible plastic tank would have to expand until it had enough back pressure for the regulator to stop the flow. The point being that a regulator may be of little benefit when filling the fresh tank.

Bill Thanks! Forgot to mention the Hungry Mother SP VA rally has a Facebook group, too.

I recently had the new rec pro on-demand hot water heater installed in our Oliver. I have this heating unit from our trauma left over if anybody could use it. We will be at the rally. However, we are leaving tomorrow morning to start our road trip so if you get back to me quickly, I’ll throw it in and you can have it when we get to the rally. Bob

Sounds good. I’ll bring it along. Bob

@Olive2Roam I am interested, we can touch base at the rally somehow. Mossey

Has anyone taken a pic of the inside of their fresh water tank overflow, near the walk-in door? Here's mine. Looks like there's a metal screen falling apart. At least my tank won't blow up like a ballon and warp the trailer. That's something. 🫣 I'm wondering if this inside piece does unscrew from what appears to be the outer ring.

Me too, and thanks for the photo Mike! You can almost read the print on the overflow tube! Hard to be sure with photography, things closer looking larger and all, BUT the overflow tube sure looks considerably larger than the rest of the plumbing.

TPMS are nice but the batteries do die and then it one more thing to replace. I have them on my tow vehicle and premptively replaced them because they are pain when they die. Been there with a different vehicle. Like you, a good, frequent visual check plus putting a pressure gage on once in awhile is my prefered method. Like Russell explained, having 4 pressures in your face all the time can be an unwelcome mental distraction for many of us.

Very nice recap of the current Oliver business and overall RV climate. As a returning customer after a 6-year absence which drove a detailed perusing of the forum, the time spent catching up has been enlightening. The perspective you get as a current customer, being up to date with Oliver products and its overall business model is like seeing the trees in all their variety as the forest kind of blends in. When it all seems new, but you come from a base of familiarity, prior experience, the changes in business, features, models, service, no service department, dealers, no dealers, industry rise/decline - it all is a really interesting and a worthwhile study. I can appreciate the tactical moves in the Oliver business model and must give them some kudos as they worked to adapt to changing trends in the industry. Dealer networks, expanded service opportunities, improved option content, less choice, new models, only to regroup - no dealer network, strategize the service business, add a new product, it all represents forward thinking and a management team that looks to the future. Change is hard, it's not always correct, but directionally Oliver stays the course. Given that, what has not changed is the Oliver strategy- take care of customers, build industry leading products, innovate. From my vantage point Oliver has incorporated changes in the option and build content that not only make sense but align with what I once asked - why not? It appears to me streamlining or right sizing of choice has cleaned up the build variation, and driven a little more standard process, less variation. Less demand should drive better builds, and improve quality - not only FTQ, but actual in the field customer satisfaction. Price, whoa, price, now that is a shock - but break it down, it is not out of line with the entirety of the general price increase across the economy. Doesn't appear to be less of an Oliver (less chips in the bag), perhaps quite the contrary. Yearly Oliver owners retreat - a "Rally" --still happening and fully supported by Oliver. Who does that? Now don't get me wrong - I have some issues Oliver could improve, but they are not asking, and they seem to catch on eventually anyways. As I type this post, my mind reminds me of the several issues we had on our prior unit, the many mods I made to improve some function or fix a design issue, tempered by the satisfaction enjoyed in many a remote outpost. It was true to me then - 7 years back, the Oliver was a great thing to have in the wilds of American backcountry travel, it was relatively trouble free, and the Oliver company never let me down when there was a problem. That continues to be true today. I can only look forward to that remaining the case and perhaps improving. I'll let you know next March...... RB As I edit- they also provide and support this forum. another feather to be added to the cap.

@John and Jodi I wasn't able to get quite the same angle, but here are my photos. I have the same material, but it's not twisted like yours. .... why do I struggle with photo uploads? I will try to fix these.... a few minutes.

I removed the access panel on the dinette seat closest to the shower and looked down and right.

Is this true Chris? When I rush to turn the water off, it appears to have the same volume of the hose filling it. Of course I'm not measuring GPM, but... OTT uses 1/2" PEX coming in with a restrictor to boot. The overflow is not PEX but a flex tube. Except for Bill's pic above, I have not see the top of the fresh water tank nor the overflow tube since we do not have inspection plates under the drawers. I just put a screen in the end of our overflow outlet, based on input from a recent post. Before adding the screen, I could fit my index finger inside the overflow to the full length of my finger. No way my finger fits inside 1/2" PEX (mechanics arthritis on every knuckle)! The overflow is likely a 3/4" ID tube. Back to @Rivernerd's issue => The tank held pressure long enough to use the kitchen faucet to release the pressure and relax the flooring. The overflow must have a significant flow restriction causing enough pressure to balloon the tank, somehow also allowing some water escaping.

Toni - The Florida, the New England and the Texas rallies were organized by members/owners and all were mentioned here on the Forum. However, primarily due to attendance restrictions (which, in turn, was due to campground availability) each of these rallies had limited availability and "advertisement". It seems that the old saying - "build it and they will come" - certainly pertains to our rallies. While the Texas and and New England rallies have been held each year for the past few years, the Florida rally was only held when Foy and Mirna had the time to devote to it (note here that in addition to hosting the Florida rally Foy and Mirna graciously provided everyone in attendance with the main entree for one night's dinner - Since I've not been able to attend either of the other two rallies I do not know the details). I also know that Oliver has provided some "door prizes" and there have been other "sponsors" as well for each of these rallies. Generally, announcements of these regional rallies would be found in the "Events & Rallies" section of the Forum. Hope this helps. Bill Sorry - I forgot about the Mid-West Rally that is taking place May 19th-May 23, 2027.

Can you describe how you accessed that area for the photo? If I can, I will send a photo of my Spring 2022.... to see if it looks different.

Nice design actually for maintenance, should be easy to remove and clean out compared to rigid pipe

Yes. New from the factory in 2022.

Finished off the SiO2C6 coating! Took one 250 ml bottle exactly for two coats over the whole trailer, including two Seafoam storage boxes (tops), two awnings and various metal bits like the doorstep. Except for the solar panel, mainly I want to get that bug catcher front edge but will do the top too. But I bought the 30' new trailer kit which has two bottles. What to do with the unopened second bottle? Once a bottle is opened it needs to be used within a month or so Option One: Inside I'm considering doing the inside too, at least strategic parts of it. The bathroom is a prime candidate to make shower cleanup easy. The countertops too, they're a thick gelcoat I believe which picks up fine scratches. I'll do a small test and see how well that works out. The floor rounded edges along the aisle is a prime candidate, those take a lot of wear. I've been waxing them but that doesn't really do a lot honestly. Checking with an AI opinion, Gemini is saying 'yes you can but generally not recommended'. Main reason being the solvent fumes (I have 3M cartridge chemical respirators and we have the ceiling fan), and basically its overkill, which is reasonable. Presently I'm using DuraGloss two step - base marine wax with a quick clean touch up, which works OK but not like a silicon coat. Option Two: Refresh coat Other option is to save the bottle (storage temp is important) until the next year or year and a half, and apply a refresh top coat. I think I'll do this Procedure (notes to my future self) Use that unused bottle of Glidecoat nano wash (deep chemical wash) Check the surface, rough spots (previous coating glitches) and scratches Use leftover SONAX EX-04-06 with foam pad, 4500 RPM, three passes crosshatch Two towel wipe off 3'x3' sections Alcohol/GC Surface wipe two towel Apply coating in a cross hatch pattern, let flash 30-60 seconds Two towel leveling (wipe off cross hatch, second towel in a circular method) Also do the missed parts Underbody (why not I've got plenty to use up?) Solar Truma plastic covers Front door, door step aluminum and other exposed aluminum Rear bumper metal

Can we assume that you purchased this Ollie "new"? I've never seen that kind of installation. Bill

Whenever we’re in Branson we visit the Keeter Center. Great food, nice gift shop. Students wait tables as a part of their tuition and it is always a good experience. Mike

If you want a real dining experience in southern Missouri eat at https://www.keetercenter.edu/Dine/Dining in Branson. Camp at https://mostateparks.com/park/table-rock-state-park

Saw someone headed up to curt gowdy state park this evening. Hope your trip is going well. Im down the road a piece on a friend's land.

Saw 2 more Ollie's on my trip out east last week. Both on i90 headed east. 1 had snow flake decals all down the side.

The coldest we have camped is 15 degrees a few nights in a row. We opened the drive side basement hatch/lid in the dinning seat to allow warm air into this unheated area and ran a dehumitifier. Each day the temps were above freezing. In these conditions our Oliver preformed very well. We have never spent time below freezing 24/7 for running days. If we were to camp in below freezing day and night for an extend time as we are currently setup, we would to blow out the water lines, empty gray, black and fresh water tanks and use water jugs for our water source. Maybe 30+ years ago, I would have considered this a good time. Several Oliver owners have modified the weak areas of heating and or insolation i.e basement/outside shower, batteries and the bathroom trailer nose. Solutions I have read about in this forum are adding insolation, running heat duct down the drivers side basement from heating system and pulling the outside shower inside the hull. I believe Oliver's double hull gives you the best change to set up for true winter camping. I'm thinking there isn't such a thing as a full fuctioning true winter camping trailer ready to go off the showroom floor.

Very strange! The fresh tank expanded enough to bow the floor. It was holding pressure, for some period of time, long enough to after the fact use the kitchen faucet to release pressure. Water coming out of the overflow seems contrary to this occurrence. Overflow (must have) occurred only after enough pressure was built up to balloon the tank. 35 PSI was enough to balloon the tank but not burst the tank or tank plumbing. If the connection was 60 PSI, like our home plumbing, the tank would have expanded more and at some pressure point the tank would burst or blow off a connected fitting. Of course, this is not normal. Good news is since pressure held, the tank and plumbing should still be good, but keep your eye out for leaking. When our tank overflows, it pours out heavy, measured in GPM like the open hose! I'm always rushing to the shut-off asap, so not to waste much water. The overflow is the only way to know for sure you have a full (small) tank of precious fresh water. You could use a gallon counter at the hose. I've never trusted tank monitors, haven't used our SeeLevel display in at least 2 years. Thank you for bringing this to our attention, but personally I cannot see changing our simple fresh tank filling procedure. IMHO, your tank overflow needs repair or replacement vs. change of process for our community. Anything but waiting for tank overflow would be a once or twice weekly PITA. I would try a flexible scope up the overflow tube. Remove any screen in the path (replace with new) and debris. Is there some kind of nest up there? Our old hull has no access panels under the kitchen drawers (as Bill pictured above). Your newer hull likely does. It would be great if you can reach in and disconnect the hose clamp to the overflow! (Someday I'll likely cut a trench under both stacks of drawers to have such access and replace that awful ducting as far up as possible.) I hope you find the reason soon so that you can get back to life as usual! 😎 We'll be reading!

Our owners are the most important part of the Oliver Travel Trailers brand. The experiences you have, the places you visit, and the ways you make your Oliver your own show what this community is really about. We’re inviting owners to share photographs, videos, travel stories, helpful ideas, and memorable moments with the Oliver marketing team. This content may help us tell the Oliver story through social media, our website, email, video, and other marketing projects. We are also developing a new Oliver Magazine. As owner content is collected, we will identify stories and photographs that may be a strong fit for the magazine and work directly with those contributors to develop the material for publication. You do not need to be a professional writer, photographer, or videographer. You also do not need to submit a completed article. A contribution can begin with a few photographs, informal notes, a video, or a simple idea. I’ll help review and curate the material so we can find the best way to tell your story. We’re especially interested in: Memorable trips and destinations Why you chose an Oliver Traveling with pets Campsite cooking and outdoor living Interior decorating and organization Boondocking and four-season travel Hiking, kayaking, fishing, cycling, and other hobbies Lessons learned over years and thousands of miles Gear you rely on and what you have learned to leave behind A favorite photograph and the story behind it Everyday moments that capture what Oliver ownership means to you Not every submission will appear in the magazine, but each one helps us better understand and represent the Oliver community. We will work directly with contributors and confirm the intended use before publishing their material. To share your story or idea, email Media@olivertraveltrailers.com. Please include a short description of your submission and the best way to contact you. If your photographs or videos are too large to email, let us know and we can provide an upload folder. Thank you for helping us tell the Oliver story through the people who live it.

We bought our used a few months ago. Went to Pennsylvania to pick it up. Love it. We have been staying on Oregon coast a bunch. We reside in Grants Pass Oregon IMG_0858.mov

I grabbed my borescope and not only grabbed some pics of the rusted screen in the overflow pipe, but a short video of my borescope magnet attachment trying to pull more screen out. Some of the rotted screen simply fell out upon touching it. I got the rest out with a long angled pick. Also, I had drained my fresh water tank on Sunday after a trip, but did not raise the nose of the camper high enough to remove enough water. You can see the reflection of the borescope light in the water. So I raised the rear jack stands, and raised the nose up a good bit more to drain even more water. I bet no one has shown the inside of the water tank before. LOL I can now see how an old rusted screen mesh could block the overflow. Also time to clean tank. fresh-water-overflow-screen-removal.mp4

It was nice meeting the two of you and pups Oliver & Winston this week while we were picking up Hull 1703 in Hohenwald.

Interesting! Are you starting a waiting list for your production model? 😁. Mike

I've greatly enjoyed time at Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site SP and campground. The state park is a real gem, with hiking trails, petroglyphs and pictographs, a beautiful creek (fishing permitted with license), flora and fauna -- a green oasis along the western slope of the beautiful Big Horn Mountains. Archaeological digs have revealed over 10,000 years of human occupation at this site -- a rare find in North America. There are dry camping sites, electrical sites, reservable sites and some that are strictly FF. If you decide to come here, be sure that you are: (1) looking at the correct campground, as there are others called 'Medicine Lodge' that are part of the Forest -- and those might be fine, but this one is within walking distance to most of the park's public areas; (2) carefully studying the route and the road conditions before you venture away from wifi/cell reception, because google and apple maps will suggest a road that is a washboard dirt road -- and there is even a sign that suggests it's the way to Hyattville -- but there is a better path. You can read about the park here: https://wyoparks.wyo.gov/index.php/places-to-go/medicine-lodge I used the "Lower Campground" -- sites 1 through 9, but there are very nice sites scattered throughout the park, all of them along sections of Medicine Lodge Creek. Lower Campground, site #7 is in the middle -- other sites are around the perimeter. Some of the petroglyphs view of Medicine Lodge Creek in the park If you're coming from the west, take 31 from Manderson. If you're coming from the east (south) take Lower Nowood Road (NOT the Ten Sleep Hyattville Road) and STAY on Lower Nowood Road until you reach the junction with 31 (Do NOT follow the green highway sign that points to the unpaved washboard road to Hyattville). Go east on 31 from Lower Nowood and turn on Cold Springs Road, then to County Road 52 (unpaved) following signs to the park.

Connor Battlefield SP is a beautiful little park that is fully surrounded within an oxbow of the Tongue River. It is a lovely green oasis with decent sites featuring grilles and tables (no hookups), and the park has restrooms and other amenities. It's First Come First Served (FF) but each day there were a few sites open. I recommend site #4 because it's tucked in a corner with a broad expanse of grass up to the river's edge. There are lots of shady Cottonwood trees. A little gem! If you are looking for a meal on the town, the Tongue River Brewery offers an incredible pizza! https://wyoparks.wyo.gov/index.php/places-to-go/connor-battlefield

OK... Been thinking of this for a while and with some encouragement from @Geronimo John - it's probably a good a time as ever to post this. So, last month the traveling Knuckleheads and I visited the "first come - first served" Oliver Campground for some maintenance activities. We pull in around mid-afternoon knowing there's likely to be some serious WX coming in our direction. Having never been to the much touted-about showroom and maintenance facility located in an industrial area "across the tracks" in Hohenwald, the puppies and I met all the fantastic people in the showroom and general workshop area. Josh showed us all the new upgrades to the 2024 models and Magnus and Oscar approvingly inspected every square inch of them. We were adorned with swag like one couldn't believe (albeit the coveted "Ravel Cups" were no where to be seen)... Retiring to the Casablanca as the only Oliver in the campground, we threw on some Chris Stapelton and settled in to chill for a bit. A few minutes later, a rap at the main entry hatch... "Sir, since you're still coupled, it would be advisable to bring your rig through the main gate and under the protective metal roof by the shop". Assuming he (I'm thinking it was Mike) knows the WX patterns a ton better than us - I "rogered-up" and by the time I managed to snuggle the Tundra under the awning, the hail went from pea size to "no SH!T" golfball size. Never experience hail balls like that. The noise was louder than sitting behind the JBD waiting to launch with an F-8 in full burner on the CAT! IMG_1665.MOV It lasted about 20 minutes or so... The Oliver folks literally save our Tundra from being destroyed by the storm's hail - our metal panels aren't like the thickness of trucks back in the day - they're very thin. Jason Essary came up during the deluge, explaining that they get this type of storm often and I asked about the 6 or 7 brand new OTTs in the parking lot totally exposed to the hurling ice balls like ours was... He said, "No worries, until those hail balls get to the size of frozen chickens, they'll be good as gold!" WOW! Our's was completely being pelted by the hail as Jason explained this and sure enough - no issues! We'd just like to take this moment to thank ALL of the OTT employees that were there that day, helping us save the mighty TV, our Tundra... Cheers, ALL!

I hope this issue has not previously been addressed on the forum. I could not find anything on this topic with a search. So, here goes. I have always assumed that the fresh water tank in our 2022 Elite II could be filled until water flows out of the overflow tube underneath the fridge, regardless of the fresh water sensor reading. This approach is recommended on p. 61 of our 2022 Oliver Owners Manual: "fill until water starts to run from the freshwater overflow..." I have regularly done just that with no issues--until a few days ago. When filling the fresh water tank, the aisle floor bulged upward, the entire trailer shifted to the curb side binding the door, and then, with a loud CRACK, the backsplash on the sink side of the galley countertop separated by about 1/2" from the fiber granite countertop, because the corner of the countertop near the sink was sloping toward the curbside! After we recovered from the shock, my wife and I immediately ran fresh water (via the pump) into the gray water tank through the galley sink until the trailer shifted back into equilibrium. Fortunately, this enabled the aisle floor to level out again, the door to unbind, and the countertop to slowly rise up again to meet the backsplash, so the two once again line up. When we get home, I plan to re-caulk the joints that separated, and carefully inspect for any additional damage. So far, all appears to be "back to normal" while we continue our extended trip. Lesson learned: despite what is recommended in your Owners Manual, monitor the fresh water tank level when filling, and once the sensor reads close to 100%, SHUT OFF THE WATER! DON'T WAIT FOR WATER TO FLOW FROM THE OVERFLOW TUBE!

We have done the list the last three years. After talking to Scott Oliver and Matt last year, they were going to try to include that information with the welcome package. So no, I am not collecting details this year. Due to a scheduling conflict with a building project here at home, we have canceled our reservations. We’ll see you in Florida for Eggs n S’mores.