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We picked up our new Elite II on Friday, 6/3/2022. Very pleased indeed! Of note however was the battery box support member only had a single tightened bolt holding it up, The second bolt was in place but not even finger tight. This issue has been discussed in the past in the forum which prompted me to check it out upon delivery...very glad I did. I also pulled the under sink drawers to inspect the hose connection that has been reported to leak, ours looked good. No other major issues, but the take-home message is to take the time to do a little digging before leaving the sales office, it is worth the effort if you find a fixable issue early on. Hull 1125 has officially taken its maiden voyage, we stayed at a couple of Hipcamps and a Harvest Host on the way home. All went seamlessly.

It is frustrating to experience what you are going through, especially when help seems beyond reach. So let me try from a distance -: Troubleshooting electrical problems requires systematic testing of the system, with test tools - don't rely on the EMS, or any other component - Until you have proven they are functioning as designed. My first guess is you have grounding problem, next would be something in the EMS system, then the Xantrex. First thing - find every grounding connection - take each apart (or verify the connection is sound) and retighten to the correct torque. Does Oliver have a schematic available? Were it me - I would verify the system voltage - disconnect the batteries and solar - check voltage at the connection where it enters the system - put it under a load - without a load you may not discover the problem. Then work your way step by step into the system. I understand this is probably outside your expertise. I will repeat - the voltage will probably read fine - until put under load. Unless it is in the componentry - but if it reads fine going in, but doesn't come out fine, you may have found the problem, replace and test - you could have multiple issues - but I doubt it. If the RV service centers are backed up until ----- find a tech on break, at a bar - wherever, explain the issue, discover their expertise on electrical, if none, ask them for names/contacts and offer him/her double triple normal wages. Good luck, but with the current demand among skilled labor - finding anyone is tough - and most business are so busy they just don't have the time/concern to deal with customers as they once did. My money is on the simple solution - a bad connection somewhere. RB - former Oliver owner, I wish you well.

We are taking delivery of our 2022 Elite II in November as well. My review of posts on this forum over the past 9 months has persuaded me that we, as consumers, are the final quality control inspectors for the Oliver trailers we buy. So, I have compiled a long list of items to check, and system tests to conduct, during the first few days after pickup. Many Oliver owners will be quick to point out that Oliver's quality control is much better than their competitors. But, as this thread demonstrates, it is still not up to my standards. I expect Oliver's management will echo the chorus heard more today than at any time in my life: "Good help is hard to find." That said, forum posters consistently note that Oliver's service department promptly and effectively addresses any issues identified by those who pick up new Olivers, before you head back home. That is one of many reasons we remain committed to Oliver. By comparison, I suspect that a request to address such issues in a new trailer purchased from a dealer, after you towed it off the lot, would be "take a number" or "leave the trailer with us and we'll see if we can get to it in a few weeks."

This does not sound right. The lithium batteries should read no more than 13.6 volts when fully charged. I expect the tech did not realize that when he checked the voltage of all your batteries, he was reading the solar charge controller's charging voltage of 13.9 volts, not the battery voltage. If you have a charger hooked up to a battery, the voltmeter will be measuring the charging voltage and not the battery voltage. The only way to accurately check the voltage of a battery is to disconnect the batteries from the system to ensure they are not receiving a charge or seeing a load. If they had been charging before disconnecting, then let them rest awhile and then check the voltage of each battery. This is known as the "open circuit voltage". If you haven't checked the open circuit voltage of your batteries, this is the first thing you need to check. It could save a lot of unnecessary troubleshooting if it turns out you actually do have battery problems. Don't give up. 🙂

It is possible that you have problems with your Lithionic batteries. This older thread discusses severe under-voltage with the Lithionics even when the app says everything is fine and is describing the system in a 2021 LE II like yours. Lots of useful troubleshooting information in this thread.

Small world. I was a voltmeter product manager at Fluke in 1978-82 for that handheld DVM (and other products) that Frank C showed. It was designed with tests including driving over it with a fork lift to see if we could squish the case. The person who was our mechanical designer iterated several times until it stood up to our abuse goals. I still have (and operate) Prototype 004 at home. CS

Vancouver Island is spectacular! Living literally within view of Vancouver Island, we have had the opportunity to visit the island a great deal, both by boat and by land. With only a week available you will only be able to scrape the surface. Victoria is a must followed by a visit to the outer coast near Tofino - great camping but weather is likely at that time of year ... luckily you have an Oliver. Vancouver Island is big - the largest island in North America. Those two areas will give you a feel of the island but there is so much more.

I agree. FWIW, I don't have any Lithionics LiFePO4 batteries, but the Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries I use to power my CPAP machine on extended river trips have an "open circuit voltage" (fully charged but rested) of 13.7 to 14.0 volts. I have six of 'em, and just tested them with my Klein voltmeter. I would consider calling Lithionics to ask what the open circuit voltage of their batteries should be. I also second the "don't give up" admonition! I don't have a technical background (I am a retired lawyer), but I have acquired some limited technical knowledge over the years when I needed to solve technical problems that I could not find anyone to solve for me. This includes how to power a CPAP machine on extended wilderness river trips with batteries and recharge those batteries with a solar panel. Before I gave up and waited another month to get into an RV service center, I would buy a good multimeter, learn how to use it, then follow the helpful suggestions offered in this thread. You have nothing to lose but a little money and a lot of time, and you just might find the solution to your problem. You should also acquire knowledge and transferable skills that will help you address other problems that arise with the complex electro-mechanical devices that are today's travel trailers. My 2 cents,

We will be dry camping at over 10,000 feet the July 4 weekend. I expect temps in the 30s at night. We’ve camped at 9,000 feet with no issues. Hopefully our furnace will light! If not, I will take off my mittens and update this post! Mike

Our LEII, Hull 990, was delivered in mid-February, 2022. It is equipped with CooperLT225 /75R16 Cooper Discoverer HT3 tires: https://coopertire.com/en-us/find-tires/all-tires/discoverer-ht3 Treadwear up to 50,000 miles UTQG Load index/Speed Rating- 115\112R Load Range- E1 Tread Depth- 14.5mm At delivery the tires were inflated to 55psi and had rubber valve stems. Also, none of the wheels & tires were balanced at delivery. I recently took the trailer to a local Discount Tire location and had all five wheels/tires balanced and chrome steel valve stems installed on all wheels. The cost was just $112.06, with tax. Each wheel required a significant amount of weights to achieve dynamic balance. On several occasions, when checking tire pressure, the cores of the original rubber valve stems would stick open, allowing air to escape. On some of those occasions, I was able to use a pocket knife to probe the core and get it to reseat and close. The chrome steel valve stems provide a much more substantial mount for the TireMinder TPMS sensors on each wheel.

This may be the answer to the problem of not enough charging stations. https://iplayerhd.com/player/video/dae6a69a-adb1-4692-aaba-cff7e6bcd493

That 4S variant is pretty much a winter capable car tire. You could have run them on the Ollie but you would basically have to run them at the full sidewall pressure, and then there is the risk of sidewall cuts because there aren't as many cords there or in the tread. I think they would be great if they were offered in a Load E variation. Was that $50 for return shipping? That seems quite reasonable to me in these hard times. Tire shopping can be exhausting emotionally, it is always prudent to really study and understand the specifications. Good catch. It would have been bad if you did not notice until after they were installed! Or never noticed and put 50 or 60 psi in them. John Davies Spokane WA

It will be fun they said! I’m sure we will love our Oliver one day when it’s not just a $70,000 fiberglass tent! This too shall pass, trying to stay hopeful.

I would say blaming the previous owner having this problem could, or could not have been a problem prior to the sale. I will tell you owing any RV can be a problem at anytime, including an Oliver. I have had to replace the MaxFan, the Prodogy power controller, and a electronic panel for the water heater, all were handled under warranty and I chased down all the problems myself and Oliver sent me the parts. I do sympathize for those who who can not chase down problems in there RV's as there will always be many requardless of how much you pay for it. This shouldn't be this way, but it just the way RV life is, you need to be a electrician, plumber, carpenter, and rocket scientist to own one of these things. It seems like everytime we come back from camping I have to address something, RV's are fun, I keep telling myself. trainman

I did. Cooper AT3 on both the trailer and truck. Happy so far. Since putting new tires on the trailer we’ve been to Maine and back, Arizona and back, the rally and points north, some local trips and now we’re in Colorado. This is the first trip with the Coopers on the truck and I’m happy with them. Quiet with a smooth ride, even considering the size. Mike

Glad all went well on your maiden voyage! Congrats on your Oliver! Also an staying an extra night or two at the Oliver Service Campground will give new owners a bit of time to a shake down their Oliver before heading home. The new sites at the Service Center really are nice and if you have any issues needing attention you are right at the mothership. Taking delivery before the new Oliver Service Center CG sites were established, we spent (4) days at David Crockett CG post delivery day. This allowed for us to go over our systems and check to make sure all was well. Just a thought for future Owners to ponder on delivery day. 😊

My experience at altitude was similar - the furnace didn't like it. Above 7k and it had trouble with ignition. Seems to be a hit or miss problem. Our companion Oliver seemed just fine.... Glad you're having fun. RB

It was great to meet you and Terry last week, Albert. Enjoy your future travels and I hope we cross paths again. Michael and Amy #1138

Replaced my tires with all season E (10 ply). LT Cooper Commercial street tires, like the LT BF Goodrich Commercial tires that came originally on our 2015 LE2 Ollie.. Mike installed all terrain type Cooper tires in this post:

I don't fault you for wanting to give up, given all of the time and energy you have already devoted to this elusive, and remarkably frustrating, electrical problem. I don't recall another post saying that Jason Essary is "just as perplexed as we are." Jason is so competent that doesn't happen very often. But please indulge me with another query: I note no reference to checking voltage with a voltmeter. After I said a few bad words out of sheer frustration, I would get my hands on a good quality multimeter (Klein makes several reliable ones, available at Home Depot) and check the voltage on the batteries, at the fridge, etc. instead of relying on the Xantrex, Lithionics or EMS readouts. I would start by checking battery voltage on each battery, then work "downstream" from there. That might give you a clue as to where the voltage is going, and maybe if one or more of those components is faulty. Good luck! And, please continue to provide reports of your progress (or lack thereof....) Our 2022 Elite II remains on order, so my wife and I are keenly interested in the resolution of this conundrum.

"We are taking delivery of our 2022 Elite II in November as well. My review of posts on this forum over the past 9 months has persuaded me that we, as consumers, are the final quality control inspectors for the Oliver trailers we buy. So, I have compiled a long list of items to check, and system tests to conduct, during the first few days after pickup." We have November 7 as our delivery day. We plan to test out everything and leave for Oregon on the 11th. Maybe we will cross paths. When is your delivery date? If you want to be famous, would you be willing to share your list with me? I know Oliver has their own list, but you might have thought of things that bear inspection from reading the forum. You won't be famous worldwide, but with us you will be. 😂🤣 Best regards, John

For those who are still planning a trip to SW Montana below is a link from the Yellowstone National Park website. You might find this helpful. As I understand it, they are still assessing the road and bridge damages which appear to be extensive depending on locations within the park. The northern section will be completely closed off for an extensive amount of time. The small town of Gardiner will obviously share the brunt of the economics of this situation. Understand too there is still some awesome country to see, experience and explore in and around SW Montana yet outside of Yellowstone. Last year there was 4.86 million visitors to YNP, I can't imagine what that many visitors this year with only half the park open would be like. Crowded would be an understatement. Good luck finding a camp spot. Additionally the Livingston Hospital was evacuated a few days ago due to flooding. Not sure whose idea it was to build a hospital close to a a free flowing river but its there apparently. By now I've seen at least two complete houses flowing down rivers one on the Yellowstone the other on the Stillwater River to the east which flows out of the Beartooth Mountains. Its entirely possible other streams and tributaries (such as the Boulder both west and main) have also had extensive flooding which we have not heard about yet. As of yesterday it was my understanding the Billings Municipal water works was shut down as well. True the rivers are receding to some degree but the damage as far more widespread than just YNP. Hopefully this will help to some degree for planning carefully and cautiously. https://www.nps.gov/yell/learn/news/220613.htm

Great use of tech but I am going to wait for v.3 which will use smaller, watch batteries. I heard the stacks are going to be built like Pez dispensers.

John, They gave me a credit and I have to pay the $50 for the return. I can live with that. This was my first time ordering from a website and I was somewhat confused as I had several pages up. Anyway Lesson learned!

Made a mistake with my Cooper tires and got the AT3 4s. Great customer service at tire rack. Still got them sitting in the garage and ups will pick them up tomorrow. I noticed the 44 psi and thought something was off. Going with 225/75/16 AT3 LT's. About a 50$ mistake. I did see the HT3's are a little cheaper but wanted to go with the ones Oliver is running.

We live in Michigan. To be honest, we are so discourage at this point and emotionally exhausted. A person shouldn’t have to know how to fix a voltage issue in an RV or any issue to own one but what I’ve learned is unless you do know how, basically you are at the mercy of overbooked service centers and rv techs.

This is possible, the wiring on Olivers is very good compared to the SOB trailers in terms of protected harnesses and looms, but to the best of my knowledge they still do not secure the loose wires properly at the terminal ends, the connections. This results in wires falling off the water pump, for example. So while we are not literally “walking on wires” there could be failure points. My trailer Hull 216 had completely unprotected main battery cables, the soft rubber insulation was wearing away from chafing the steel battery tray. It was a serious fire hazard. Having to string a new wire to bypass an unknown fault is not something a tech or owner wants to do, but it could be necessary if detailed methodical troubleshooting and physical inspection doesn’t find the cause…😳 John Davies Spokane WA

Where do you live? You need to add this info to a signature so it appears in all your posts. Maybe an Oliver owner close to you would be able to help. At this stage in your ordeal you need to bypass Jason entirely and make a personal phone call to an Oliver management person. The lack of diagrams has been a serious issue for literally YEARS and we keep hearing new and inventive reasons why, IMHO it is completely unacceptable, because it results in the emotionally devastating crap like what is happening to you now. If Oliver used industry standard color coding on the wires, it would not be a big deal, but they do not! This is crazy, they changed four of the five colors to the rear lights: I personally would never own an RV or a boat if I could not myself deal with stuff like this, I have the technical background to do it effectively. I really feel for “normal” people who have to rely on the outdated and crippled RV service model. Please keep this thread going. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

Thank you. We appreciate all the suggestions very much. I’m not aware of any detailed schematics available. A simple solution would be glorious, quite honestly at this point we are overwhelmed.

I , personally, think you may have issues with the xantrex, and, possibly, the ems, and the batteries reporting software . If your trailer is at home, and you can go out after dark, and check the various meters, I "think" we'd see just the solar is working . I'm totally unsure, wish we were closer. Solar of course won't work, after dark. That's the point. Do you have a multimeter? Did all systems work at pickup?

Thanks for including the Flying Sea Turtle in the second picture. Happy trails and sunsets. Scotty

This was the first time we used it...and we haven't gotten around to cleaning it. But the process looks quite straightforward. Sicking my better half on it today! 😉 https://iconlifesaver.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/LifeSaver-Jerrycan-Instruction-Manual-2-2.pdf?v=7516fd43adaa This really did allow us to boondock for longer than we would have without it. While we only purified 6-8 gallons, we could have easily done more if friends hadn't re-supplied us with potable water when they arrived at camp.

Yep, had the same experience with tires on a 87 Toyota pickup. Find myself looking at SOB trailers to see what kind of tires they come with new. When we first saw an Oliver during 2010, we loved how the Ollie looked, but it goes much deeper, tires are just one area that makes our Ollies great campers!

I got both sets at Discount Tire. Maybe they’ve discontinued the trailer size. I didn’t include the spare, still have the smaller size BF Goodrich. Not optimal, I am considering a spare that matches the installed tires and leaving the cover off. I was a little concerned that my speedometer would not be accurate with the larger diameter tires. With the Firestones (285/60 20) actual speed was generally about 1mph below GPS and various roadside radar. These tires, almost 1.5” taller, show the same speed on my speedometer and GPS. I haven’t encountered one of those roadside radar displays yet, but right now it seems my speedometer is more accurate. So far, I’m happy. They look good, fill out the wheel well better and have a quiet, smooth ride. We leave for Colorado in the morning, so I’ll be able to see what the gas mileage difference is. Mike

We recently had Oliver Service Center install a new Furrion Vision S Rear Camera on our Ollie. The original Voyager camera that it came with was diagnosed with water intrusion and was out of warranty. So a replacement was in order. The new Furrion S works great and we really appreciate long distance rear highway visibility and the safety factor when changing lanes when under way. A real plus is we can also see our bicycles when mounted up on our bike rack. The Furrion S also has a feature which allows the driver to hear the spotter when backing into a campsite as the camera has a microphone and the video monitor has a speaker. This allows the driver to see and hear voice commands of the spotter when backing up. Pretty cool tech if you choose to use it. The Mod- I decided to purchase an extra silicone dash mount for $13 which is the exact same mount we use for our “TST TPMS” system. The rubber mount holds the Furrion monitor securely on the dash which I prefer rather than use the suction cup on the w/s. The fit of the monitor into the silicone holder could not be more perfect. And now no more sticking a suction cup to the w/s for viewing the rear cam monitor. Just thought I would pass this along in case anyone is interested. A side note. I returned the Voyager Camera to the company that sells Voyager. They have agreed to replace the old camera which had water intrusion with a brand new one. They did not have to do this, as I was 6 months past the 1year warranty expiration. I have already promised/sold the Voyager to another Oliver owner with full disclosure of why I replaced it with a new Furrion. Pics of silicone mount, Furrion backup cam monitor and shark fin rear camera - TST silicone rubber dash mount - Rear Sharkfin camera- Furrion Vision S - Temporarily laid the mount on the dash to check line of sight visibility. I am still deciding on the best location for the monitor.

We concur.

These photos are incredible! Wonderful memories to have. 💗

Has a factory reset been done on the inverter? I think there was fairly recent post about how to do that. Memories can get scrambled... Charlie

We have 120 volt output with correct polarity and correct phase on every one of our AC wall outlets inside and out including out GFI breaker wall plug. My husband doesn’t see where there is a GFI breaker on our inverter. If our GFI was tripped on the inverter wouldn’t that stop all inside and outside receptacles from working properly? As for the lights, it’s usually just one dim however at times all will dim and/or won’t turn on including reading lights. My husband is going to try moving the shore power plug right now. Also not familiar as to where that round hatch is? We are so very grateful for your help.

That is helpful, but that Technical Service Bulletin was for a missing inverter chassis ground cable, the "third wire", which did not in any way affect the inverter's normal operation, or any of the other circuits,, it was a serious shock hazard in case the inverter shorted out internally to its housing. But that big ground post on the trailer frame is ultimately where the main ground wires should attach. BTW this is a prime example of why we should have wiring diagrams for our trailers! It is CRAZY to expect an RV tech or an owner to blunder around with no accurate references. If Katjo does bring in a residential electrician, the very first thing he is going to say is, where are the diagrams? When he sees there are none, he is going to melt down. John Davies Spokane WA

I agree. I can’t believe someone would sell with major unresolved electrical issues.

We’ll, I just scare ‘em a little.

We had a problem with the curbside jack, recently, in our 2008. It would come up, but not down. Operating the manual alternative is a pita, to say the least. Tear up the bed, the handle only goes about 90 degrees, you get the picture. Since it would work one direction, we hesitated to tear out the switch, which we suspected to be the culprit, and have it work then in no directions. I contacted service, and @JWalmsley with his great memory, directed me to a replacement switch on Amazon. 5 minute replacement. Full operation. Thanks, Jason! You are the best, even for 15th season trailers.

Having answered that question hundreds of times to people I delivered boats to over 20 years, I always said buy the one offered by Shur Hold marine products, They are light, do a great job for the weekend buffer. If you want to step up and work your arm use what the pros use Dewalt or Makota . If your hull looks good try Buff Magic by the company or 3M finesse.

Here's the Cooper tires we replaced original Commercial BF Goodrich tires with at Discount Tire. My goal was to use a tire close to what Oliver was using last year when they were replaced. Cooper Discover HT3 LT 225/75R/16 https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/cooper-discoverer-ht3 Thinking about installing wheels Oliver has been installing on Ollies lately, but have not done it yet. This is not the newest wheel mentioned earlier. https://www.lionsheadtireandwheel.com/Jaguar-Aluminum-Wheel edited

We installed new LT Cooper tires from Discount Tire with over 6 years on our original BF Goodrich Commercial 225/75R/16 tires, but believe the tread looks different compared to Mike's new tires. Need to drop by Ollie today, will take photos and get Cooper tire model. We have a smaller spare tire from Oliver 215/60R/16, maximum 44PSI, too. We could install a standard size spare tire on the wheel since we keep Ollie's spare in the pickup bed to keep Ollie's weight under 5000 pounds ready to camp along with other LE2 weight saving measures. Keep the wheel cover on Ollie for looks.

I tried aerosol film paint protector spray for two years in a row - I wouldn't waste my time on it again. In order to get the thickness you need to provide even marginal protection you will need numerous coats. With the time that takes plus the masking of areas where you do not want this spray, the entire process will take at least two days. I had as many as seven coats on and it still wasn't as thick as even 8mm protection film. Bill

They are a great start, but also add a set of extended ones on your truck like Mike’s. Think layers of protection. In fact you might want to consider a temporary stone protector aerosol film for the trip back, so you won’t worry so much. Peel it off when you get home. Or tape closed cell foam on the front of the Ollie with gaffers tape, not cheap duct tape. Some folks headed to AK do this and it seems to work pretty well. Stopping the chips is most important, but NO way is your trailer going to stay clean over a 2500+ mile trip in November. In fact, you will probably have to take the longer route across the SW deserts then up on I-5. you will hit snow in the passes otherwise. Bring chains or cables for the truck AND the Ollie. What is your delivery date, and can you have it bumped a little earlier? You still need a few days in TN for the shakedown testing. In your shoes I would be thinking about having the Ollie delivered to Oregon. John Davies Spokane WA

Are you going to be by yourself? and what tow vehicle? If solo, I suggest the smaller Elite since it is easier and cheaper to lift, much MUCH easier and cheaper to add disk brakes to (there are no bolt on, plug and play kits for the LE2, you have to install heavier axles), has stouter axle and bearings, and is significantly more maneuverable. The 4.5 feet shorter length will fit into lots more primitive campsites. The wheels are strong. The tires that come are adequate high mileage LT Load E Cooper somethings. Earlier trailers had Michelin LTX. Neither will be a problem with typical groomed gravel roads, but a more robust tread has better sidewall cut resistance for sharp ballast roads like the drive to Kennecott. I would install a set of slightly larger 30” outside diameter robust off road tires, including the spare, and then not worry about it again. A bigger tire will not fit under that spare cover, but you can remove that entirely if you like. You would have to relocate the license plate bracket and light. The suspension is OK on either, but both definitely could be improved. The LE2 suspension flexes nicely but has around an inch of up travel before the axle ubolts hit the frame. BANG. 😳 I haven’t made it to AK yet, but have been through western BC and YT as far as White Horse, and driven the Stewart/ Cassiar in the rain. These trailers need significant rock protection unless you just don’t care about gelcoat damage and blasted frame and axles. There are a lot of threads on this subject. If I were flying solo, I definitely would prefer the LE over the LE2! It would be a great match for my Land Cruiser 200, which is a little overwhelmed by the bigger trailer, and I could eliminate that pesky PITA Andersen hitch. BTW, I used to occasionally do engine work on Turbo Beavers and Twin Otters in Seattle. I really hated working on float planes! Especially outside. Cool aircraft tho. I used to live near Lake Union and enjoyed watching them take off through the horde of sailboats and paddlers. Balls of steel! 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

Liana, That is what the EMS is suppose to do. But in reading the manual and the video on Oliver University the display in the upper cabinet should be showing the error code, not blank. Once the issue is corrected the EMS is suppose to restore power automatically. Once hooked back up and normal it should show a PE code for a previous error. I should have been able to use the by pass mode even though it is not recommended. None to that happened. The error codes are printed on the EMS box under the seat at the dinette. You have to be able to read upside down. You do not need to abandon shore power. The EMS will protect your electronics. Like I stated about I would recommend a extra external surge protector at the pedestal. Peace of mind and it serves as a test unit before you plug in the trailer. When you tested at the pedestal was there no power at all or low voltage?