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Attached is a photo of what I believe to be a bathroom return air vent in our new Hull #1291 Elite II. It is on the back side of the aft bathroom wall, right above the black tank flush/check valve, and therefore accessible from underneath the front dinette seat. The second attached photo is shot from the bath side. I suspect the return air is expected to make its way back to the furnace through the area under the floor. You will note that the forced air vents are smaller than in previous models. I believe this is because we were the third Elite II upgraded to the Truma AC/VarioHeat furnace package. The air ducts are smaller diameter, but much more substantial than I have seen in photos previously posted on this forum. Maybe Oliver added return air vents as part of this upgrade? For what it's worth, a cold front moved into Tennessee last night. It has been in the high 30's today, with lows for tonight forecast to be in the mid-20's. We have run the furnace most of the day, with the bathroom door closed, yet it has been only a bit cooler in the bath than in the main cabin. I suspect that small return air duct has helped balance the flow of heated air to the bathroom.

My last assignment was as the #2 in CENTAF/A-7 (Engineering). My Engineering RED HORSE Tiger Team from ACC and I spent some time in Iraq. Our fully "Air Conditioned" and Up-Armored (LOL, SIC) Hummer is behind us. This was one of the few times that we were not wearing body armor and carrying long rifles and backpacks with 240 rounds each..... The two outside gentlemen are the smartest NCO's I have ever met. My partner wearing "Green" was a fellow RED HORSE Commander. Great friends all. Sure miss the mission and the troops. God Bless all our service men and women. They serve our country well regardless.

For softer forms of M.F., you are spot on. Ours are left for 8 to 9 months each winter. They are a firmer version with no impacts... so far..... We have Ollie in a dark barn on a mountain top Ranch in OK. Gets cold there. Little or no sun on our Ollie, but I cover it regardless. That and two large buckets of Damp Rid and it has worked well for the past 4 winters. GJ

The biggies are a compressor fridge (and accompanying outside fold-down table) in the new vs electric/propane absorbsion fridge in the previous years. Victron replacing Zamp for the solar controller ( and hopefully but not likely more of the electrical system.) And lastly, with the optional Truma AC is the Truma furnace along with the previously available Truma inline water heater. There are more differences, but I think these three were the only major changes.

For all the time and effort you and other Moderators put into this Forum, I vote that OTT award you one (with case) in honor of your service to us all! Let's hear it owners what do you think about this idea?

It is not unusual for Oliver to "phase" in upgrades and/or changes in equipment from one year to the next. Bill

I had a base model Parkit360, not the same as the Trailer Vallet EX, but similar. Wouldn’t come close to working in my situation. Next I bought a front mount hitch for our Land Cruiser and was much more happy with the arrangement. Very maneuverable with the steering wheels being so close to the hitch. And much less expensive than any of the mechanical or electric trailer movers. Consider a front mount hitch, it mounts with just four bolts and other than the weight, it unbolts when you don’t need it pretty easily.

My dad served with the Army in the Pacific in WW2. My oldest brother was an Army rifleman in Vietnam. Many thanks to all who served in the past and those who serve now.

Thank you to all that are active, those who have served and those who have died for our freedom. My Dad served 4 years in the United States Air Force during the Korean War. Forever my Hero.🇺🇸

I looked through the offerings. Missing is the Coffee Drinkers upgrade with Oliver mugs and the Camping Attire upgrade with Oliver branded shirts and hats. I can think of others, too. Mike

Frank beat me to it. Your FLOODED lead acid batteries should be kept in a garage, not your house, they vent hazardous and flammable H2 gas when charging. Maintaining them correctly is a PITA and you need to wear safety goggles when checking the electrolyte specific gravity. You should have a small digital voltmeter to check each battery individually. This chart shows the normal "open cell" (NO load) voltages for a single 6 volt battery. 11.6 volts on your inside meter indicates completely dead batteries (IF there are no other loads running)! Were there any 12 volt items operating when you checked that? If no loads, they may not be usable, except as core trade-ins. You definitely don't want your discharged batteries to freeze, they will split open and spill acid everywhere John Davies Spokane WA

However, if this trim piece had cracked or become notably loose then it just might indicate that your microwave is not held in place as it should be. And/or you have been down some very rough roads. This microwave is actually held in place (basically) by being attached to the upper cabinet via the screws that go through the two holes (barely seen in the photo below) at the rear of the metal piece that approximately spans the middle of the microwave. Once you remove the trim piece then reach in, grab the microwave and try to move it from side to side. If you can move it without too much force then it is likely that either this support attachment has come loose or isn't there at all. Jason Essary can assist you in making repairs - just open a Service ticket.

My dad, right after joining the Marines in 1942. He served the remainder of the war in the South Pacific.

If it should come uncoupled and wreck the trailer with no batteries in it, and injure some other party, you will be crucified in court, and your insurance would not cover you either. OTH If you have a medium sized lawn mower 12 volt battery in good condition (and fully charged) at home, you could install that in place of your big RV batteries. Even if it is a different type, it would work fine, just be sure to turn off all chargers if they are set for lithium batteries. You would need to rig some sort of adapter wires, your great big cables are too massive for the small terminals. As always, check your emegrgency breakaway switch before departing. https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-ML5-12-Rechargeable/dp/B00K8UO288 It would be a whole lot simpler to just remove the main batteries at the storage lot and bring them back home. John Davies Spokane WA

Everyone knows someone or is related to someone who has sacrificed for our country. God bless them all. We wouldn't have the freedom and prosperity we enjoy without them. My son, dad and his brothers all served in combat. Dad's oldest brother in the Battle of the Bulge. He was never normal after coming home. Dad talked little about his experiences in the Korean war. But I've seen the pictures he brought home. You would never know such a balanced man lived through hell on earth right out of high school. Thank you Veterans!

Thanks to all who answered the call to serve! Our Country owes a debt of gratitude to all of you! Mike USN 1983-2007

What would you estimate the leak rate to be? You probably blew apart one of the push to connect Shark Bite connectors. If it is a strong leak it should be simple enough to locate visually and perhaps by sound, sometimes it could be a hissing sound. Small leaks aka “seeps” can be located by putting a folded blue paper shop towel under a suspected pipe, any water leakage will turn it dark blue at that spot. Buy and ALWAYS use a good adjustable pressure regulator, set to 60 psi or less. The system is not designed for 80 psi. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003YJLAIK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Connect your hose to the regulator, connect the regulator to your filter, connect the filter to a BRASS 90 degree garden hose elbow. Now you can connect the elbow to your tank fill or city water port and drape the hose over the back bumper to take the stress off that fitting and to make it look professional. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

According to their post on the Facebook group, the owners of #1292 took delivery Friday, and have the very last 2022 model built. It also looks like some of the 2023 features have been rolled out over these last trailers. #1289 has the Victron controller, and Rivernerd's #1291 has the new Truma furnace. I haven't seen anyone with the new compressor fridge yet. Here's hoping any problems with the new bits get ironed out by our March 29th delivery. And thank you to the new beta testers! 😉

OK - assuming the lighter one: 1. as dewdev points out above, cover/pad all sharp edges. The solar panels are the biggest and next would be the bumper. Pool noodles are your friend for both of these. 1a. don't forget to remove the antenna of the rearview camera if you have one. 2. lay out the cover on the ground with the front of the cover at the front of the Ollie and the back at the back. 3. Either get up on a ladder or use "painter's poles" with tennis balls on the ends to protect the cover (thanks to Patriot for this "painter pole idea) to feed the cover onto the roof and over obstacles that are on the roof. Adjust the cover using the poles or while on the ladder both front to back and side to side. 4. Batten down the hatches. 5. Grab a adult beverage an admire your work. Bill

I think people will likely love the Truma varioheat. More quiet and even. Night mode. If iur 15 year old suburban dies, the varioheat is on our radar for a replacement unit. We have a compressor fridge. It consumes 60 to 70 ah per day. Easily managed with our 400 watts of solar, and 200 watts portable, with a Honda 1000 backup. As most of you know, we camp without hookups 99 per cent of the time. But, we are power misers. No inverter, no microwave. Agm batteries (2 x group 31, 105 ah.)

Bill: Roger on the symmetry thing. Super cool idea on having change remote colors. Better yet, get the kind that can dance to the music. Even better for when camping near noisy neighbors or ones that didn't get the memo about only using inverter generators: Get high power LED stage lights that can go psychedelic to send them a strong message "silently". LOL Back to reality. when one fails I'll order three.

In the five seasons we have had our Ollie, I have not once used the "City Water" port as it is intended. If I work my pump to death as a result, that's an easy fix. Finding a drip in the basement would seem to be a real PITA. But if you do use the city water port, there is no need to buy pressure regulators. Just ask the RV camp maintenance man for one. They collect them by the bushel basket from new RV Owners that have left theirs connected on a daily basis. No slam here. That's what I did with the one OTT gave me. Classic Homer Simpson ice cream to the forehead .......Duhhhhhh Got to be on the top ten dumb mistakes that new RV Owners make. Humm.. that would be a fun forum topic. But let's not highjack this post.

If either of you are looking for a long lost relative - I'm it!🤪

Please don't waste your money. This has been the subject of many posts through the years. I've never seen one that was positive. Your best bet is a front receiver on your tow vehicle. I've used them on the last 5 vehicles and I promise you that you can put that trailer anywhere you want to,

Yes, I didn't trust the microwave being attached by just those two screws in the top. I used scrap pieces of wood to wedge it in prior to putting the trim piece back on. Six years later it hasn't moved! Bill

To all those that served in our military. Post up a photo or (2) of the good ole days! 🇺🇸 Thank you for serving our country. Pattiot 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 Desert Shield, Desert Storm, Desert Calm. 90-91

I received mine last week from Oliver. Put it in it needed a three-quarter piece of foam to level out microwave she rides nice no more broken rim. I don’t really use the microwave. So this summer I will take it out and in close And put a door on it.

"Pivoting" a heavy multi-axle trailer on pavement with a mover is nearly impossible because trailer tire drag will overwhelm the mover's traction ability. Unless your flat area is large enough to make multiple gradual turns, you're going to need a much more involved solution than the Trailer Valet. Do not consider any mover lacking the capability to control and temporality lock the trailer brakes.

Thanks that was what I was thinking glad you confirmed that for me.

I have the 4 x 12v wet cell battery setup as well. If you are reading only 11.6 volts on the display, your batteries are very close to completely dead (see chart), and may be damaged (shortened battery life). Since you don’t have power available at your storage location, removing the batteries and taking them to your home and putting them on a battery tender is your best option. I store our Ollie at home and just plug it into house AC power every two weeks or so to keep the batteries from dropping below 12.2v.

I think this might be what you are looking for. The location is certainly not very intuitive... but it's there. Go to "upgrades and add-ons" under Elite II. Keep going down to the bottom... at first you will see upgrades that you can do to your Oliver.... but clear down to the bottom you will find Clam shell tents, chairs, rugs, grills, solar panels and more. I found it because I wanted to get a Calmark cover ordered. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/legacy-elite-2/upgrades-add-ons/

S&D B are correct but if you are talking about merchandise that Oliver has for sale then as far as I know there isn't presently such a list. You would be best served to send your Oliver Sales Agent a note in this regard and perhaps they can get a list for you. On a related note - Oliver has been working on a "Company Store" for a long time and we have been told that it is (finally) close to becoming a reality - by year end hopefully. Bill

The blower on the furnace is 12V only. It is powered by your batteries. Your solar doesn’t run anything, it just charges your batteries. I don’t know the specifics of the new inverter arrangement Oliver is using. My old Xantrex is only turned on when not on shore power and I want to use a 120V outlet, which is rare. If you have shore power using a space heater will save you propane. Mike

I was patiently waiting for a fellow camper to finish his dumping operation and watched in amazement as he let his slinky slip and disappear into the campground sewer. He shrugged and left. Stuff happens I guess.

In the up position the TV hangs down from the mounting screws. I'd expect the TV case design to account for shear, since they normally hang vertically on a wall, but not for loads applied pulling against the back of the TV.

Ron, We have never removed our cushions while in storage at our home and have not had any issues. I suppose you could stand them up on edge, we do this with our memory foam mattresses. We only run our dehumidifier above 41 degrees per the instructions in the owners manual. Nice job on the Ollie Hangar build It looks very similar to ours. 😊

Only for the sake of symmetry is the one out of three lights "questionable". Wouldn't it be nice to get those LED's that change color via a remote? That way you could have your "bug" light and "holiday" light and "light" light and "red" (night vision) light or whatever. Bill

Thanks for all that served!!🇺🇸 Manny, US Army 1971-1973. 3rd Armored Cav.

Thank you, ADK, Scuba and John. Disconnect, insurance…. Got it now. Easy enough to leave them in.

This would be correct.

Under "normal" circumstances, the trailer brakes and tail lights/directional signals are powered by the tow vehicle. HOWEVER... in the case of a tow vehicle / trailer disconnect, the trailer battery is required to power the trailer brakes when the emergency disconnect cable/switch is engaged. Without research, I suspect it is likely illegal in most states to pull a trailer with electric brakes and no on-board battery in case of a disconnect...

UPDATE: I opened a ticket with service and was told that the drain pipe is just inserted into the rubber grommet with no adhesive. I asked if there were any issues with my repair (epoxy both the grommet and pipe to the tank) and was told there were no issues that they were aware of. It might be a good periodic check to look under the dinette seat and ensure that the drain pipe is seated tightly into the rubber grommet on top of the gray tank. Or, it looks like you could make a more permanent seal like I ended up doing. I will say that it took about 90,000 miles and just under 7 years for my drain pipe to dislocate itself. Mike

Today was the day I got to do the fun messy job of replacing the China Bomb wheel bearings/seals on the ILOVHER on over to USA made Timkens. This was quite the all day project as we also changed out the shocks and lubed the EZ Flex suspension. We beat the rain by a mere ten minutes! My only experience prior to this, was replacing entire preloaded hubs and manual brakes on my Casita which was easy compared to this. After figuring out the best way to jack the side of the trailer up. (Yes, we used multiple floor jacks, and safety jacks stands, chocks and wood cribbing all while being attached to my truck) All I can say is, Thank God my son was here to teach me and to remove the seals in those hubs! (His father owns an excavating company so he knows a bit about trailers/brakes) There is no way on Gods green earth I would have been able to remove them by myself. We had a puller and they would not budge. I think they were permatex'd in there. He somehow was able to use his strength, ingenuity and multiple tools to get them out without scoring. Here are some observations and or questions we had: 1. My son thinks that the shocks look too large for the application. We used the exact replacement that Oliver uses (Monroe 555025) He says they're nearly all the way compressed with the way the suspension sits and that is why potentially two of them were blown. His opinion is that they'd do more if they were just a bit smaller. I have no idea or opinion but it was the one job I was able to complete by myself so I'm good with it. 2. It was quite the surprise to see that the axle spindle did not have the Dexter EZ lube feature. My understanding is that this was not an option on an LE2 in 2017? I did not know this and bought new grease caps with the rubber insert. As much as I learned today, this was sort of disconcerting. Even my Casita had EZ lube axle and it was a 2007. I greased my bearings every year and it made it easy. All those great suspension features like shocks and a EZ Flex but no way to easily grease bearings?? What gives? I sort of dread doing this again. 3. What's with grease guns? OMG..I wanted to throw and shoot them with a real rifle like skeet. I used two separate guns and they both were being unruly and messy. I could have bought stock today in rubber gloves and shop towels! LOL 4. Bearing grease packer seemed like a great idea. Who knew you'd have to use all 200# of human body weight to press down in order for the thing to squeeze grease into the bearings? 4. I took the advice on the forum and replaced a few zerks with 90s and 45s and used plastic cap covers but OMG.. crawling under the trailer is not for the faint of heart or my elderly bones! I think I want/need a creeper. 5. Thank God for Harbor Freight! I now have all kinds of fun new cheap tools, like impact driver and a torque wrench which I properly learned how to use! I now can afford to go to the Rally. 6. The Nev-r-Adjust Brakes looked good but I think I'm going to go with manual brakes next time. I don't feel confident about what I learned about them today and how they actually DO need adjustment. We greased the important parts with a good brake grease. At least we didn't find any loose parts. springs or worn pads floating about. 7. Found four cracked lug nuts. Son says the sheath on the outside is cracked and I should consider solid replacements. Any recommendations? 8. Beer never tasted so good. Thank you for all of the forum help I've received, without you guys, I'd be dead in the water. See y'all safely at the Rally !

The blue tube exiting under the hull is your fresh water tank drain tube. The drain valve on that drain line might be open. Have you recently filled the fresh water tank? If not, it could be a bad check valve in the water pump (or very high city water pressure) that’s letting water from the city water connection leak back into the fresh water tank, and if the fresh tank drain valve is open, water from the fresh tank will exit out of that blue tube.

I buy mine at Costco. Mossey

So after troubleshooting most of the day, this is where I am: Without opening the bathroom vanity, the liquid seems to be contained in the closet and then drained through the floor cover to the weep/drain hole. We believe this is related to the wash/ceramic coating service that I had done recently because: The liquid feels "slick" Washing our hands after touching the liquid causes the water to bead up on our hands We never noticed a spot under the camper prior to the service There do appear to be caulking issues both outside and inside (see photos below) In spite of all of this, using our hose, we could not duplicate the issue We confirmed with our detailer that he did not use a pressure washer or any other high pressure device to wash or apply the coating We both "soaked" the roof next to the vent checking for seepage and also used the "jet" setting on the vent to try to generate some splash Additionally, when we returned home from Hohenwald, we drove through some hellacious t-storms and did not notice a leak Next steps include: Calling Oliver and opening a service ticket Attempting to recaulk the exterior seam next to the vent Determining whether the interior seams need to be caulked: around the pipe; closet side wall to ceiling; closet front wall to ceiling; as well as the entire length of the closet front wall to side wall Monitoring for additional liquid in the closet. As @mossemi noted, our storage spot is under cover and it doesn't rain here a lot right now so we'll see. Please let me know if you have any recommendations for type/brand of caulk to use. Photo 1: exterior vent seam on roof Photo2: light through hole in closet ceiling Photo 3: interior caulking issues?

FYI, don’t leave your Andersen chains and whaletail lying on the ground, eventually they will rust as the finish gets scratched up. Two short bungee cords, one hooked to the middle of each chain, and one hooked to the ends of the whaletail, will support them neatly off the ground. You can leave the middle one attached while towing. The front one can then be used to secure your wiring to keep it off the ground. This method protects your big investment and makes you look like a pro; the parts never touch the ground, unless you have to lower the tongue way past the normal position at a steep campsite. The same applies to your three jacks, put a block of wood underneath each, or they will rust and leave nasty stains on the pavement. They are also more stable when they are not fully extended, and it reduces wear and tear on the motors and gears. And saves battery power. How do you like your new trailer? John Davies Spokane WA

Grease the upper cover: Set the gear and shim down over the lower part, align the gasket and install the cover and the four bolts. Tighten the three set screws firmly, be careful they are steel in aluminum. Clean off the top and make a record of the service: Test the jack for proper operation and shift all your tools and stuff to the other side. My street side gearbox looked very similar - too little lube, some gear wear: Each jack took a couple of hours, most of that time was cleaning out the old contaminated grease. A future service might be a whole lot faster, you could just take a look and add some more CV-2 if needed. I do NOT recommend leaving the old white lithium grease in place, it will not mix well with the full synthetic, and you should get all those black metal particles out!. John Davies Spokane WA

IMO the Bulldog hitch is a very good design and will handle loads far greater than design parameters if it’s shock loaded along the axis of the coupler. Meaning I feel it will be safer during a rear end collision than the normal latch coupler. The real question in my mind is does the 2 inch coupler with the strongest 2 inch ball have enough sheer strength to completely crumple the aluminum a-frame before it lets go (dissipating as much energy as possible).

Most people do. We really monitor and squeeze power, because of our limited battery capacity. We're not honestly the model to follow. If you camp a lot in cool weather, you'll use maybe twice the amp hours, or more, running the furnace fan. However, I am always concerned that some people spend a lot on battery power, without a good reason. Some people need it, others just want it. I find these discussions interesting, too. My husband and I have been discussing lithium alternatives when our 5 year old agm batteries die. We'll probably only add one or two 100 ah lithium batteries. It will be enough, for us. Small portable generators are cheap insurance, if solar doesn't keep up, imo.