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Aftermarket trailer brake controllers have commonly been installed by auto electrical shops for decades. They were not even available from some truck manufacturers until the last decade or two; they were almost always installed after the factory build. Trailer brake controllers are available for your specific Titan truck for as low as $175: See this link, for example: https://www.etrailer.com/bc-2022_Nissan_Titan.htm?style=without+factory+Tow+Package Installation may cost double that amount--get quotes. I strongly recommend you contact a reputable auto electrical, or auto mechanical shop, or two or three, wherever you live and get competitive quotes. And, I strongly recommend that you don't tow your Oliver again until it is installed, and you know how to set the gain to properly control the trailer brakes. It is a critical legal and safety issue. If you are involved in an accident towing your trailer without a trailer brake controller, your insurance company may try to decline coverage. I would not even consider taking that risk.

You can have one installed in your current truck. Go to any local RV dealer, truck mod shop or trailer dealer and they should be able to do it.

Well, this TV shopping might be a bit more difficult than I thought. Ford dealership only had 1 red (not one of my color choices) 2500 and said they are having a hard time finding them. Almost an $80,000 price tag. The Chevy dealership had 1 2500 Dodge that I just didn't care for and NO 2500 Chevy. So, I went home and got on CarMax and found a few Chevy and Dodge possibilities, with no Ford options. Mileage from 10-45k with price tags from $40-55,000.00. With the price of trucks right now, might end up with new to me instead of brand new. I did test drive the one 2500 Ford and was happy to see that I enjoyed driving it and will have no problem using it as my daily driver to work also. My work is just down the street.

For those who are curious, I called Oliver and sent them pics of the fiberglass damage. Their suggestion (short of bringing it back to them in Hohenwald) is to use a reputable marine fiberglass shop. Their experience is that RV repair shops don't do nearly as good or work on fiberglass as a shop working with it all day every day. As for color they suggest that they can color match it at the shop and didn't give me a color code or number. So hopefully Tuesday after the Holiday the local fiberglass shop will get back to me and I can see if they agree with what Oliver told me as to color matching.

If you do this routinely you could add a pair of 48” long cargo tracks and tie down straps or bungees, because your gear is undoubtedly bouncing up and down, even if they don’t shift visibly on the mats. Plus in a hard stop it will keep them secure. https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/l-track-versatie These are GREAT items, very versatile, as their name implies, and you get 10% off your first order if you subscribe to emails. I have Mac’s parts all over and in my Ollie. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2790-how-to-aircraft-tiedowns-for-the-storage-tray/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2759-how-to-closet-tie-down-rings/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2758-how-to-wire-cable-clothes-line-full-cabin-length/ You could also carry the small 6x6 Clam shelter there. The bigger ones are too long. John Davies Spokane WA

I can add an additional idea. We have twin bed configuration. On occasion I go on photography trips without my wife. I completely take out the mattress on one side and roll out a couple of yoga mats to create friction on the fiberglass surface. I use the space for my photo gear (4 packs, tripods, flash gear, computer), plus some other gear the is normally packed deep in the back of the truck that I want to have easy access (packed in crates). The bed wing with the upturned edge does a great job containing the gear. I love having easy access and a place to stage/clean/recharge my camera gear each morning and end of day.

Melody, while I am sorry you already bought your truck and have some rearranging to do now, I am very thankful that you asked the question. I am in the market now for a new, or at least maybe new to me, and all of this is so helpful. I am getting my TV situated before I order my LE2 a few months from now. Thanks for all the amazing information everyone!

The Oliver trailer has no brake controller. The Oliver brakes are controlled by the brake controller on the tow vehicle. Since your tow vehicle has no trailer brake controller, you are basically towing with no functioning trailer brakes. A very unsafe situation, especially in any hilly/mountainous areas. If your vehicle had a trailer brake controller it would look something like this on the dashboard, a digital display with +/- buttons to adjust the trailer braking, and two small squeeze paddles to manually apply the trailer brakes when needed. Just because the tow vehicle has a pin connector on the bumper, that does not automatically mean the tow vehicle has a brake controller

The Isotherm fits through my door opening with 1/2” to spare on each side. I did tape down the protruding wires on the compressor so they would not catch. John Davies Spokane WA

It is possible to replace your brake assemblies with units that have a mechanical “parking brake feature”. That system is operated by cables and a lever that mounts on the tongue. It is designed to be left on ALL the time you are parked. It also provides extra stability when you are camping by stopping the rocking of the tires. It does not replace chocks! If you mounted the actuating lever out of sight, under the tongue or in the doghouse (propane cover) it would be a fairly effective theft deterrent. If your existing brakes are worn or corroded, this would be a sensible upgrade. Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly with Parking Brake - 12" - Left Hand - 6,000 lbs John Davies Spokane WA

@Rivernerd,💯 truth. I felt the same way about our 2014 Toyota Tundra Platinum 5.7. We sold it and bumped up to a 1 ton diesel F350. What a difference in ridiculous power, much more cargo capacity, better mpgs, amazing engine braking, superior handling and a huge difference in comfort on long trips. No Andersen WDH to be concerned with. There is really no comparison. 👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸

RE your comment above ( ...and perhaps pulling the pin to the brake locks so they are always on...) DO NOT pull the pin to leave the brakes on all the time. Doing that will only work until it depletes your batteries then you will have no battery power, the brakes will release and the trailer can be rolled away... On the other hand, it is recommended to routinely pull the pin to check to make sure the safety mechanism is functioning properly, this amounts to an emergency braking system in the event your trailer breaks loose of your tow vehicle on the road, it will help slow it down, or at least it will cause it to have skid marks into whatever it careens into as it freewheels into something. I too have a Proven Industry lock but I upgraded the puck lock to an Abloy Sentry Cylinder in a Steel Ft. Knox puck lock body which I bought from Ft. Knox Locks. it ended up costing almost $400 for the set (Bulldog lock by Proven and an upgraded Abloy cylinder in a Ft knox Steel puck-lock) but for the nearly $100,000 piece of equipment I'm looking to protect it didn't seem out of line to spend that much. Puck lock with ugraded Abloy key cylinder (which is virtually unpickable) https://ftknoxlocks.com/shop/ols/products/abloy-sentry-cylinder-in-ft-knox-steel-puck-lock-body Proven Industries locks https://www.provenlocks.com/ I didn't like the aluminum puck lock that came with the Proven Industries lock so that's why I opted for the Ft Knox puck lock and use it with the Proven Industries bull dog coupler lock. It's a very nice combination.

Off to YT University I go! 🙂

You use the manual lever to apply the brakes fully, to test your adjustment setting initially, and when towing over different road surfaces, for example smooth asphalt versus slippery gravel, and as the brake shoes wear in. The trailer brakes need to be adjusted “as needed” for best operation, don’t just set them once when they are new and never touch the controller again. In theory you need to be able to put on the trailer brakes if the trailer starts to sway, but a properly loaded and maintained Ollie just doesn’t sway. Fingers crossed. John Davies Spokane WA

Thank you for your input and welcome. I am definitely leaning towards at least a 3/4 ton. Going to test drive trucks tomorrow.

Hello, Yes you do need a break controller. In most states it’s required when towing a trailer that weighs more than 3,000 lbs.

[Note a version of this was originally posted in the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook group - wanted to share it here as well.] Quick tip: if you fill your fresh tank and then can’t get the pump to pull you can break the suction lock by hooking up to the boondocking port and running water through the pump into the tank. Full details below. Thanks to the authors of several threads that I can't find for the life of me again that suggested the cup fill, city water, and the boondock method that ultimately worked for me. If I can ever find those posts again, I will properly credit them. Full details Picked up Reset LE I Hull 1030 today after first year service at the mothership. Staying tonight at the campground, and since it’s predicted to be 20F overnight did not want to leave a hose out to freeze. So, I put a half load in the fresh tank for onboard water needs. I know the pump was working at drop off since we did a Harvest Host night on the way out and all worked fine. After filling the fresh tank, I started the pump and it ran - but ran continuously. No water flow at the kitchen or bathroom sinks. Based on posts in this forum I checked filter screen for plastic chips. While there were a few in there it was not enough to block flow completely. I also used the trick of filling the filter screen cup with water to try to get it to prime. No joy. Of course, service is gone for the weekend at this point, so we are alone on the campground trying to figure out what to do. Searching the forums turns up the suggestion to fill the city water side then switch to tanks. Did that and did not get the pump to prime after switching back to the fresh tank. Finally came across the idea for breaking a vacuum lock through the boondocking port. Hooked up the campground water to the boondock port with valves in boondock configuration. I turned on the water and ran the pump for about 5 seconds while I could hear the tank filling from the boondock port. Turned off the water to the boondock port and reconfigured the valves to normal and started the pump. Got pressure and flow immediately. Success and no frozen hoses overnight.

I completed my rear jack inspection and re-greasing last week, finally. Look like it was the first time since the jacks were installed at Oliver. Unlike @John E Davies my gearbox has no drive area, however, it was certainly time for new grease, no question. I gears looked brand new with no signs of heat strain (no brown areas). I think it was @John E Davies or @SeaDawgwho mentioned to loosen the three Allan nuts under the gearbox in order to spin the passenger-side gearbox in order to get it around the edge of the fiberglass edge. It worked like a charm. Thanks! I cleaned out as much old lithium grease and replaced it with fresh Mobilith SHC PM 460 White Lithium Complex Multipurpose Grease. I even setup my phone to video record the sound and to check for any movement of the jacks under load. I did not notice any movement, but I will double check the jack bolts that go through the frame. Others have reported them as loose as one full turn. I cleaned the jack legs too and inspected for any damage. They both looked with only road grime on them. I coated with a dry lube and worked them up and down a couple times. I forgot to take a pick of my grease job. But, looked just like John's grease job, only white instead of red. LOL Also updated my maintenance log. Don't forget to do that.

One thing about a tow vehicle: size!. However, but f you are still going to go to work, where do you park it at work? Staff usually has to park away from the doors. A parking spot for a big big tow vehicle maybe be way way out back. A small hike after a long trying day can help clear the head and heart, unless you are on the night shift...

In my humble opinion if you are the only one sleeping in it the couch makes all the sense in the world. If someone is going to sleep there it will be a very narrow bed indeed.

Hi everyone, my name is Steve and I have placed my order for a Legacy Elite II and the estimated delivery is June 20th. I have done very little RV camping, but it has been a plan for many years. My wife and I used to dream about retiring and traveling the country in an RV. Sadly, she passed away before we could realize that dream. I am 64 and planning on retiring once I hit the magic 65 in September. In December, I purchased my tow vehicle. Took a trip up to Hohenwald a couple of weeks ago and met with Jason at Oliver. I toured the factory and pulled the trigger on the new trailer. Still have a lot of learning to do-- there are days and days of videos on YouTube about Olivers and also just RVing in general so I've been binging those 😄 Really looking forward to this summer when me and my pup will hit the road!

I really like the idea. But for the topic of this thread, I would consider that the thieves will be all over the front of the trailer, and could see the large handle. I would mount near the back bumper. They would not likely see it an it would be a great safety device for parking on grades as well. GJ

JDE, tracks are good tip and simple project. thank you

Once you get the "gain" properly set on the trailer brake controller (on a deserted, straight and level section of road), you don't have to touch the brake controller lever for normal braking. You just put your foot on the brake pedal, and the trailer brake controller applies the trailer brakes at the same time your tow vehicle applies the tow vehicle brakes. You can feel the difference in braking power once you get the gain properly set. And, you can feel the trailer brakes stopping the trailer, independent of the truck braking system. Setting the gain is a trial and error process, which is why you do it on an empty section of straight, level road. Start by setting the gain to #5 out of 10. Get the rig up to about 25 mph and then stop it using the brake pedal. If the trailer brakes "grab," reduce the gain to 4 and try again. If you can't feel the trailer brake engaging at all, increase the gain to 6, and try again. After 5-10 minutes, you should be able to get the gain set to where the trailer brakes engage to about the same extent that the truck brakes do, so they work as a team to stop the whole rig as a unit. As well explained by John Davies above, you may need to use the manual lever on the trailer brake controller to engage the trailer brakes independent of the truck brakes, but those situations are not common. As he notes, manually engaging he trailer brake lever is an effective way to stop trailer sway, but Oliver's don't sway! For nearly all driving conditions, once you get the gain properly set, you should not need to use the manual lever for normal braking. But, the settings do change as your brake shoes wear in, so at the beginning of every long trip, I engage the brakes on an empty road close to home to verify that I can feel the trailer brakes engaging, as they did when I initially set the gain. If not, I adjust until they engage smoothly with the truck brakes, then proceed with the trip.

Hello Everyone! I am a 58 years young lady who is now obsessed with all things Oliver travel trailers. I converted a 36' school bus in 2018 and lived in it for 3.5 years. I then converted a Ford Transit Connect and lived and traveled in it for 4 months. I simply love the lifestyle and am ready to secure my final rig; truck and Oliver Legacy Elite ll; twin bed layout. I am stationary for now, in the Phoenix, AZ area, planning and saving and taking well thought out steps in my purchases over the next couple months. I am an RN by profession. I am so looking forward to seeing others out on the road in the next year, enjoying these beautiful trailers.

So sorry this happened but glad you got your Ollie back. I have hitch lock but have been thinking about throwing an AirTag somewhere in the Ollie. Might help find it faster if it ever goes missing and they are cheap enough to put a couple in the trailer.

There are some National Forest Service campgrounds that require the site be occupied on the first night of the reservation - if not then they cancel the rest of the reservation. Unfortunately even this is abused in that I had a camp host tell me that people will set up a cheap tent on the site (i.e. occupy the site with the tent) in order to get around this requirement. Shame! Bil

Yep - But, you can "bugger up" the nuts on those bolts so that they are very difficult to remove. Buggered bolts or not - if they really want it, they will find a way to get it. For instance - bring a flat bed and drag the Ollie onto it and drive away. 😰😞 Bill

If you are going to tow with your current Titan you need to have a brake controller. It applies the trailer brakes when your truck brakes are activated and also gives you the option to manually apply your trailer brakes independently from your truck brakes.

Gelcoat has a color/number code, and you can order it through a marine supply/fiberglass supply. (In St. Pete, FL, fiberglass productsis our go to source.) . Last time I bought it, for the boat,, one quart was the minimum. And, like every other chemical these days, expensive. Marine tex is pretty close in color, not perfect, so you could just dremel it out and fill in. Or, see if Oliver has the correct color in stock. Gel coat repair is a multistage process.

No, but any generic coupler could be attached. For that matter, I've mostly read of thieves simply looping the safety chains around a tow ball, and be gone!

Solo traveler with a grown kid with me sometimes. Otherwise just me and dog. I got the coach option. I just leave extra cushions at home if I need other bed for a guest.

We have an Amcrest GPS GL300 tracker. Whenever our Elite II is: (1) away from its fully-enclosed storage shed next to our home, and (2) not connected to our tow vehicle, we turn the tracker on. It requires a subscription fee, but we enjoy the peace of mind. I have read anecdotal stores of such trackers being used by police to find stolen trailers. In your shoes, I would leave the tracker on whenever it is parked in front of your home. The tracker is in addition to two different kinds of Bulldog coupler locks, which we install when leaving the trailer at a campground unattended.

Yes, you don’t want to leave the black tank drain open - just when dumping. For the gray tank I usually leave it closed until I dump. If you want to leave it open it shouldn’t pose any problems except you won’t have gray water to flush through your hose after emptying the black tank. Mike

@Big Cat, we have an older Hull, in our upper cabinets we only have the outer hull as a barrier. We use a GPS device from Trak-4, and it easily provides coverage from inside. We've used it for a couple of years and have been pleased with how it works.

@Big CatYou have not really said why you want to secure your propane tank cover. If it’s to secure your LP tanks you may want to consider this mod. No guarantees that your tanks won’t get stolen, but it is better than no lock and is an easy and inexpensive mod. Please add your Oliver hull# and TV information to your signature line so that members can more readily help you with questions. Patriot🇺🇸

Hello ShhQuiet, i have just skimmed this stream and noted that you may need an Andersen Hitch. I have one lightly used that you may have at no charge. It has been holding down the cement slab in my shop since i got my F250 in 2019. The hitch will be free but shipping could be a big number (weighs around 60 LBS+ packaging) and would be at your cost. The hitch cost something like $570+ new. Shipping would be from California / zip code 95519 if you want to investigate the cost of freight. I will give you the right of first refusal then anyone else needing the hitch may have it. Please let me know if you wish to have the hitch. And congratulations, you have purchased a fine trailer.

They make a small GPS tracker with an integrated solar panel. A roof mount would give you solar power and good GPS tracking and communications.

@angler Glad that your Ollie has been recovered and you at least you can now work on getting it back ship shape. Naturally you will want to go through ALL your systems and determine the extent of ALL damage done. As for additional security measures you could consider high end security cameras along with your motion sensor lighting. If a thief wants anything bad enough they will likely succeed. Short of removing the wheels during storage there are no 💯 guarantees that it won’t be stolen again. Possibly find a local indoor storage garage? Out of sight out of mind. Again glad to hear your happy ending with your Ollie recovery. I hope that your insurance company does everything in their power to make you whole again.👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸

Welcome to the family. You will not regret getting a Oliver. Best trailer made. Doing a lot of research on the trailer helps with the wait. Buying the stuff to put in the Oliver is fun.

Hello Rene and welcome !! I think you made an excellent choice!! I found these forums very helpful in my search then in my options. Don't be afraid to reach out to members on here. They have been very helpful with my questions.

Not on mine. On my original build I did order the deletion of that twin bed extension in order to make that side more like an actual couch. However, Good ol' Anita called me one day and convinced me to add the "wing" and then use the combination of the back cushions plus a couple of throw pillows in order to make the "couch" more comfortable while preserving the utility of the larger seating area for a bed if the need arises. As with most things - Anita was right! Bill

I travel alone with Pets. I decided against the couch option and went with the twin configuration for the following reasons: -couch option deletes the bed wing on the couch side, making for a narrower bed. -I didnt want to stow all of the couch cushions when I have a human guest travel with me -couch cushions are vertical and not that comfy for slouching (those who have tried lounging at the dinette can attest to this) Instead, I bring four down-filled throw pillows with me and can stack them into a wedge for slouching etc. It’s also easier to stow the down pillows when using as a bed. Works for me. Should you experience condensation on the inner wall under the belly band it is easier to spot without being covered with couch cushions and the pillows are easily moved Also, I can switch sides for sleeping easily and not have to deal with a narrow bed on the one side

Hello Bristol, I agree with the others. If you are going to be traveling alone then the couch option would be a good choice, but if you have or will be having a traveling companion then the twin beds are the way to go. I think topgun2 suggestion to get the twins and use one as a couch is the best of both worlds. You never know when you may want/need that second bed.

Finding a half ton truck with a payload of 2,000 lbs will be a challenge. I towed with two different half tons and found them to be fine tow vehicles although payload was in the 1,500 lb range. The Andersen WDH was required. The past couple of years we’ve had a 3/4 ton diesel and the difference is noticeable. No WDH, no worry about what we throw in the bed of the truck. Our payload is just north of 2,000 lbs. Towing is relaxed, no drama. I also use it as my daily driver, no issues. Of course around here big trucks are the norm. Mike

Welcome to the forum Rene. A great place to learn more about Oliver TT. Now is a good time to read as much as you can in Oliver University. It will really come in handy when you get ready to place your final order. How exciting! Take your time when considering a new tow vehicle. No one ever said I have too much or too large of a tow vehicle. Think cargo capacity when selecting a TV and how much time you will be actually driving. We started out with a half ton Tundra and it was not long after we bumped up to an 1 ton diesel, by far a much higher comfort level on longer trips, ridiculous amount of power, better mileage, engine braking, and much more cargo capacity. There are many options out there. Best of luck with your choices! Patriot🇺🇸

If you want that much towing capacity AND that much payload WHILE TOWING (which is good), none of the 150/1500 level trucks is optimal. I tow with a 2019 Tundra, which only has a 1460 lb. payload. When towing an Oliver Elite II, which has tongue weight in the 500-600 lb. range depending on how it is loaded, we are right on that payload margin. Not ideal. And, we use an Andersen weight distribution hitch because is is mandated by the Tundra owners manual. The Andersen works well, but is an added hassle when hooking and unhooking the trailer. I have been a Toyota guy for a couple of decades. I wish Toyota made a 3/4 ton pickup. That said, you will be much better off with a 250/2500 level 3/4 ton truck, or maybe even a 1-ton, which limits you to Ford, Dodge and GM/Chevy. No Andersen WD hitch required. And, safer on the road because the tow vehicle will outweigh the trailer. Why don't I tow our new Oliver 2022 Elite II with a 3/4 ton pickup? Because this is a historically bad time to buy a new truck. I can't justify the remarkable price differential between what we paid for our 2019 Tundra in 2019 and what it would cost me to buy a new Ford F250 or Chevy/Dodge 2500 today. But if I were buying now, it would be a 2500 or even 3500 level truck for towing our Elite II. Good luck with your decision! And, please report what you decide to buy, so the rest of us can learn from your experience.

It was very good to see you in Quartzsite this week. I hope you had all your questions answered and came away with some good information that proves useful to you.

Rene, welcome! You made a good choice. We will definitely be looking for you out on the road! Mike

Congrats on your decision to get an Oliver!! You are going to love it! Nurses are awesome, such big hearts. Thank you for what you do.💗