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We’re collecting our new to us hull 225 this weekend. Long time AIRSTREAM family since 2008, upgrading to an Oliver. We’re stoked!

John Dehne: Thanks for the "heads up," with photo, demonstrating the potential for physical contact between the propane line and the black hot gas line on the Norcold absorption fridge. I checked the Norcold fridge on our Hull #1291. Fortunately, ours was installed with more horizontal space between the copper propane line and the black hot gas line. There is enough clearance that, even when wiggled, the two lines cannot contact each other. I recommend that each owner of a Norcold absorption fridge double-check this clearance issue, and address any conflict like you did, by inserting some kind of pliable insulator between them. Good catch!

Many of he things in this regard that apply to the Elite II will also apply to the Elite I. I'd insulate just about anything that I could get my hands on and I'd start with the water lines. Actually at the elementary level this is fairly simple - go down to the local hardware store and get yourself several lengths of 1/2 inch foam pipe insulation like THIS and put it on any (yes - both hot and cold) pipe you can reach. Then start shoving extra insulation anywhere you can (I'd use something like Reflextix) anywhere you can - an extra layer in the attic, a layer in and around the external shower and under the dinette seats, layer behind the kitchen drawers, etc.. You don't have enough time for more "extreme" measures. In any case have a great trip! Bill

Steph and Dud Steph and Dud B: Great visual. Thank for posting. For OTT's it is spot on. However, The reason it is great for OTT's is that there are only very limited circumstances wher the Ground to Neutral voltage is zero. When working on industrial or even home A/C units, I have been surprised by having up to 50 volts delta between them. Trust me, that hurts.... and had I been grounded, it likely would have been the last thing to hurt me. Point is: PLEASE never ASS-U-ME that handling a neutral or ground wire on anything has zero potential voltage. Treat them all as hot until you put your volt meter on all three nodes. Safety John (AKA GJ)

Welcome to the family. This forum is some of the best people out there.They will help with any questions or issues you have. A lot of knowledge here. Safe travels.

If belt(s) on 4 year old tire failed, I'd replace them all, too. Prudent thing to do. Good catch.

It's not so important exactly which device you use. As you've gathered it is more important to be in the habit of ALWAYS checking prior to plugging in your trailer. There are numerous devices available, from the tiny little yellow plug with three lights on the end that only checks the electrical connections to more complex surge protectors with indicator lights for detected problems and an internal surge protector. The latter sort will give you a double surge protection - one at the pole and the one internal to your Oliver. Also, you should follow the advice from ScubaRx and contact Progressive Industries about your unit, to confirm it is well or not.

Sorry I didn't see this when you first posted. As you've probably realized by now, it's not the converter, it's the transfer switch and is only included if you order the front generator hook-up port. The problem arose because the screws in the connector block had loosened over time and a loose connection will build up heat due to the increased resistance. As far as any concerns with the converter goes, you do need to make sure the wiring connections are all tight there as well.

Called Dometic and the RM24 dimensions they gave came out to 11 Liters for the freezer useable space. Suspect this does not include the hollowed out space of the door itself. GJ

All the very best on your new to you Oliver. You are in great company here, welcome. Patriot🇺🇸

That's exactly what I did in an earlier fifth wheel we had. Worked great.

All great responses. Thanks. Seems prudent to test the power source before plugging in! David

Found the fan on my 2021 Norcold. You can’t see it by opening both exterior vents. I needed to use my phone to take a picture from bottom looking up. It would be a ***** to change if needed. I also installed a piece of rubber between the 3/8 gas line after bending in Down a little it’s was rubbing on the black hot gas line. Don’t need a leak on either system.

I'm obsessive about staying on top of pressures and doing visual inspections of each tire before, during and after every trip and today it paid off. Not sure if it was caused by a defect in the tire or by running over something, but going to stick with my OCD and change all 4. Inspect your tires frequently!

Definitely submit a service ticket. Your photo shows sloppy installation, of which the Oliver Service Department should be advised. That said, there should be a round access port cover, on the forward end of the street side overhead cabinet just aft of that Zamp charge controller, which will allow you to access the back of that mounting area. With such access, you should be able to swap the left-side screw visible in your photo for a bolt with nut.

Wow! Great catch. OCD does pay off. Most of my friends and I have it but will not admit it. Safe travels.

So glad that you caught the problem BEFORE it really turned into a problem. Sure would have been easy to miss that tread on the inside - again, great work on seeing it. Almost makes one wonder what was keeping that thing from letting go on you. Bill

Practical applications of Newton's three laws of motion. Commercial potable water /milk tanks cannot be baffled like gasoline tanks. Federal law also mandates these trucks be either 100% full or completely empty when in motion. A 2,500 gal water truck fills up a rural residential property 2,000 gal house tank. The truck is required to dump the remaining 500 gals on the property without moving the truck. The heavy dual axle truck is virtually uncontrollable with forces of only 500 gals of moving water in the tank. Now, I realize 32-70 gals of partially filled tanks generate smaller forces. However, after 20 years of towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer between Alaska to Baja Sur, I always traveled with a full tank or on occasion an empty one. The weight difference was always noticeable even with my 2001 Duramax 2500. I pick up a new Ollie in late April. I will fast track back to Colorado perhaps on a route encompassing a 10,000 ft pass. I only have a 200 series Land Cruiser which is not the best TV. I will be traveling most days with an empty fresh water tank. Fortunately, I have ordered a composting toilet, so no black water. My pursuit for improved safety preempts any inconvenience of a public shower facility or, as an old backpacker, a one gal ***** bath. Should be fun!

Great advice! Glad you caught it before you got under way. Do you use a TPMS? Let me know where you find a deal! Mossey

I have a LE1 dinette is 71”L x 24” W

Sounds like a great trip! No expert in extended cold weather, but with a pick up date in mid February we have had two trips through temps in the 20’s and one ice storm. Your trailer is close to ours (LE ‘22 Hull 1030) so I am going to guess my investigations from last week will apply to yours as well. (1) As @topgun2 pointed out - insulation is your friend. From my under the curb side covers time last weekend it appears that indeed the hot water line leading to the sink gets very close to the outer hull and is touching in at least one place. Pressure is being applied by the Pex curve guides that are using to route the lines. If you can get a piece of insulation up between that it should be good. (2) Check that you are getting warm air on the vent in the rear on the curb side when the furnace is running. There is a vent just to the rearward of the kitchen on the curb side. I discovered that I am not getting anything but cold air there. Have not determined why - not sure if its a factor of a ridiculously undersized air duct and too long an uninsulated run or a leak at the attachment to the furnace. If your’s is hot then the heat radiating off the duct may be what is supposed to keep that cavity warm. Would be interested to know if you just get cold air there as well. Other than the one frozen plug in the pipe, which did not cause any long term damage, we have not had any cold weather issues. Data points are small - just a couple of nights, so your and other’s experience may vary.

Welcome to the Oliver family and the forum. As new members ourselves, Tom and I could not be happier with our decision and we are looking forward to many adventures with Olive beginning soon (waiting to camp is as hard as it was waiting for delivery!). Enjoy!

Congratulations and welcome! Paula

Welcome and congratulations! Let us know when you have questions. Mike

My Elite II has 1-1/2” axle spindle nuts.

Thanks for sharing. We just had Two large RV shows near us Timonium MD and Harrisburg PA. Didn’t go this year. Besides there is nothing build as well as the Oliver at the shows.

RV rated up to 67 pounds. https://bikerumor.com/new-kuat-2-hitch-adapter-turns-the-piston-sr-roof-rack-into-a-1-bike-hitch-rack/ John Davies Spokane WA

I carry a multi meter for all types of troubleshooting. These 3 items are my go to tools for testing any new power pole we connect to which may have 15A, 30A or 50A service. Mossey

I finally was able to measure the size of the freezer compartment on our (absorption) Dometic RM2454: W=17",H=6",D=8" = 816 cubic inches = 13.4 liters. As mentioned Dometic is somewhat elusive with their specs, but they do claim the overall size is 4 cubic ft = approximately 113 liters. The Dometic and the 115 Elegance have *approximately* the same overall capacity, with a larger freezer in the 115 Elegance. The Nova Kool has a larger overall capacity, primarily by being somewhat deeper than the other 3, with a similar freezer size to the Dometic. To summarize a few of the recently mentioned options: Dometic RM2454: 4 cu ft/113 liters overall, 13.4 liter freezer, ~99.6 liter refrig (by extrapolation) Isotherm Cruise Elegance 130: 4.6 cu ft/130 liters overall, 6.0 liter freezer, ~124 liter refrig (by extrapolation) Isotherm Freeline 115 Elegance: 4.1 cu ft/115 liters overall, 32 liter freezer, ~83 liter refrig (by extrapolation) Nova Kool R5810: 5.8 cu ft/164 liters overall ,11.3 liter freezer, ~152.7 liter refrig (by extrapolation) As (almost) always, there are trade-offs to be considered 🙂

Below is a link to a $34 unit that will check post wiring and provide some surge protection. When added to the high-quality internal surge protector already installed in the Oliver, this should be adequate: https://www.amazon.com/Protector-EyGde-Indicator-Protection-Extension/dp/B09HR15F2Y/ref=asc_df_B09HR15F2Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563658249300&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7940290766815897406&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1642769687496&th=1

GJ The second 30A receptacle also allows us to place the generators near the front of the trailer and further away from the rear sleeping area for noise purposes. Of course, if you are using the generator(s) to run the Dometic turbojet air conditioner, you won't be able to hear the generators anyway. 🤣

The voltage number will vary a bit depending on the shore power. Normal AC shore/household power voltage is usually in the range of 110 to 125 volts. AC shore power frequency (the H value) is usually controlled very tightly by power companies and should always read 60 Hertz, so the shore power voltage and frequency are not the problem. It’s odd that the Progressive unit in your trailer is showing E0 (normal/no errors) but your external surge protector at the post is showing a reversed line-neutral problem with the shore power. That reversed line (hot) and neutral wire error should be showing an E1 error on the Progressive display.

Our 2022 has a Norcold fridge. There is an external fan in the rear fridge compartment that is controlled automatically. It moves a lot of air. No manual switch.

My fan switch is located on the main switch panel just inside the door. I don’t know why they stopped, but I do know they are located differently in some trailers. You can always add your own as some others have done. Mossey

Yes it does need to be raised enough to remove the screws that the cups are attached with. You can see the screws in Steve’s picture. I flipped mine over on its back while it was still on the roof. That made it a little easier to remove the old gasket and sealant. But before removing or raising the AC, you should remove the plastic evaporator cover under the foam insulation. That will allow you troubleshoot a little further. It is attached with press in tabs around the perimeter and a few screws. I was then able to use a measuring cup to put water into the drain channels to pinpoint the leak. Mossey

That’s helpful, Mossemi. So, to get access to the drain pans, the AC has to come off the roof, correct? We are beginning to think the drain pan may be damaged somehow, not allowing a full connection of the drain tube. Thanks David

Well,my usual advice is " love the one you own. " Every vehicle we own is technically capable of towing our 2008 Elite I. Some, better than others. (With the exception of the 58 tr3) It's easy to oversize. Easy to undersize, as well. The price of new vehicles today gives us all pause. And, worth a careful study. Most of us don't "need" a huge diesel. Some don't want yhe andersen hitch, so they get a 3/4, rather than a half ton. You said in another post that your suv is kind of "on the cusp," so that's another thought.

If you haven’t yet, I’d contact one of the Oliver sales reps and ask your questions. For those kind of questions most of us can only offer opinions. I don’t think they would do either. The toilet mounts are probably very different and the standard stove is propane versus electric for induction with new wiring and mounting differences. Mike

I purchased a Garmin Smart Drive 65 with traffic four years ago, it has a 7" screen and works today just like it did when purchased new, $200 price. I will say that we don't use it that much as we just use the AppleCarPlay and iPhone, it does just about everything we need when traveling. Many new vehicles come with GPS today, but my biggest complaint is I have to pay around $150 for upgrades and a Garmin unit has lifetime free updates and my iPhone is always updated free, well free is in the monthly bill. It's just another TOY to play with, mine is used on my motorcycle, because I get lost a lot. trainman

Great video by Josh!

Absolutely!! Any chance to see an Ollie, and owners. It will help my motivation to stay the course until I am showing my little beauty off also!

There’s nothing like getting paid for something that you’d likely do for nothing.

Brian and Sondra, congratulations on your upcoming Oliver purchase!! It will open up a new world of exciting road trips and wanderings ahead. An Elite will provide years and years of enjoyment across this beautiful land. The last two years have really slowed down my traveling . . . only 139,000 miles on The Wonder Egg so far. So far, I've camped in 48 states, (missing Delaware), 10 provinces, one territory, have seen unbelievable giant Redwoods and Sequoias, monuments, canyons, ancient ruins, pueblos, Viking settlements, and camped with an iceberg grounded in a cove right behind the campsite. The Wonder Egg still looks like it just rolled off the factory floor and is ready for 15 more years of 4 to 7 month wanderings each year . . . roll on!!

4 year old Hercules ST225/75R15's. Don't know what caused it but the Belts are definitely torn. The tire is deforming near the cut and is slightly out of round too.