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Well folks hull #1434 has been delivered today. Unfortunate as the circumstances were that cost me my first Ollie, I'm glad to be back in a new one. Currently staying at The Colonies rv park in Fort Monroe VA. Nice Small park just spitting distance from the Fort Monroe national monument.

@Sak I had a cover on our former “Demonic Penguin” AC and it never blew off in high wind. It can be cinched down pretty tight. We never had issues with birds or bugs at all. Patriot🇺🇸

There are AC covers available, that could help keep daubers out. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rv+ac+cover&crid=WMFIA4XGFUNA&sprefix=rv+ac+cover%2Caps%2C121&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

When we purchased Ollie used, there were mud daubers in the AC that made a lot of noise from time to time. It was hard to find them with the cover off, but finally found them & got rid of them, happy to report no issues since.

We just bought a used trailer. I say used, but as new. The black water tank was never used and the grey water probably once or twice. My gray water shutoff valve did not shut completely. It let about a gallon of water out in a days travel. When I inspected both systems I found the black water handle was not properly installed as it was not exactly horizontal which made it rub on fiberglass inset. The gray water valve was not adjusted correctly, it would not shut the valve completely. So I had to loosen the allen set screw on the valve and pull out just a little distance on the wire. Now the handle is about an 1/8th inch from bottoming out and the valve seals completely.

Glad to hear you’ve got your new Ollie! I know Fort Monroe well, seems like a lifetime ago. Enjoy that new trailer - Mike

Welcome back home! Safe travels!

Congrats on your new Oliver. Wishing you all the best and miles of smiles! We look forward to photos and travel stories! Welcome back! Patriot 🇺🇸

Rebuilt the front axle brakes and greased all contact points with silicone brake grease. Today I will remove the adjuster spring on the rear and apply grease there, since yes, the pressure wash cleaned it dry. Installed the new shocks (don't over-tighten the rubber bushing). Amazon used was good for 3 out of 4, one was blown, as you could compress it easily by hand and it would sit there and return very slowly. I submitted a return on that one and ordered another one at the new price of $34. Good practice with new shocks, out of the box, is to fully compress them, and allowing them to expand, 2-3 times. My Timken seals arrived from eTrailer yesterday, so I will finish up the left side and start the right. They certainly look of better quality, with made in USA printed on both sides. BTW, if you have the original CHINA bearings, and they have been maintained, just clean them well and repack them and you should be fine for some time. For my Oliver, with dubious maintenance history, thought it was the right time to install new bearings. I like to get my vehicles fully serviced, while I'm still able to do this kind of work. And we're not like some of you who put 10K miles on a year! For us, 3000 miles would be a big year (I like to be home!). Like to plan our RV trips, driving just 2-4 hours a day, boondocking between other stops. I do not plan to open these drums, grease the bearings again for a few years, after I get them right. I understand the suggested maintenance schedule, often written by legal departments and not experienced mechanics. Also, not driving through major rainstorms, as JD had mentioned, which is a rare case in the SW. We pull over and wait out such storms!

On the differences between brake assemblies, probably a redesigned version in order to manufacture the assembly more cheaply (inexpensively). Oliver purchases the axle assemblies by the pallet load and just grabs two at a time for each LEII. They don’t disassemble them for inspection other than checking to see that externally they aren’t damaged. As a side note, after pressure washing the brake assemblies I’d recommend removing the adjusting screw assembly and disassembling it and thoroughly cleaning/lubricating them. I’d be willing to bet that water made its way into the threads and will corrode/lock up the adjuster.

Just for reference adding to the discussion, I replaced all of my brakes and hub/drums three years ago. In the process of pricing out the various components (at that time) Textrail (Sparta, TN) was the least expensive even with shipping. For example the complete brake assemblies were $46.03 each left or right for the self adjusting type. I’ve never had any problems with this type, don’t know just saying. The hub/drum assembly complete with bearings (chinese) and seals were $60.36 each. I also have never had any problems with the factory seals. Maybe because I polished the spindle seal area and pre lube the seals a little at installation. The prices from Textrail that I found at the time were half of my local Dexter supplier/trailer shop. With shipping, taxes, everything from Tennessee to my driveway in Virginia $571.03 I have since replaced the bearings with genuine Timken bearings purchased from an industrial power transmission supplier that I have dealt with for years at work and upgraded the grease to Red Line CV-2 grease. Timken bearings are not inexpensive but are of great quality. Also, Textrail is the axle supplier for Oliver (at least they were three years ago) and have offices all across the country.

Ya got pics of that beauty? Glad that you're back with us. Bill

Congratulations and Safe Travels !!

Thank you Patriot🇺🇸, you have an amazing TV in your "2021 F350 6.7 liter Diesel Lariat..." OMG, wanna trade? LOL! New model Ford F250/350s with the PowerStroke diesel engine, have an exhaust brake accessory. I'm not sure if it is standard, or an option that comes with a special tow package. Perhaps the new Rams also have this, but not us old Ram 5.9 Cummins. It's pricy, but the purchase price of my TV was a steal and I planned from the start to put another $10K into parts for it, me being the primary installer! After I complete my build, I will still be at about 33% the cost of a new diesel truck! This is on my build list (watch the product video): PacBrake PRXB Exhaust Brake Cummins 24V (dieselpowerproducts.com) Keep in mind, we all need good brakes in stop-n-go traffic, both truck and trailer, since an exhaust brake cuts out at lower RPMs. The diesel engine brake is a must for frequent mountain driving. One hour from our home, on the way to Phoenix, is a 4000 FT drop in elevation!

Do you always wear that bear suit?

This is the way it works in our 2008. The systems are separate. And, tank fill port and city water port are separate. We typically fill the tank, and work from the tank. We rarely hook up to city water.

Hi all! These topics here in the forums are auto-created when a new article is posted on the main website. Thanks for the feed back on the ones that were posted with broken links, it was something else I was testing out yesterday and were not actually anything to be posted here but the main website thought it was. Corrected! All of the manual information can be found in our University found here: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/oliver-university/ Thanks everyone! PINNED

Very nice job - almost to the point of being lovely.

@Wandering Sagebrush, that sounds like outstanding coverage. Glad your friend survived. I see coachnet now covers towables, at a reasonable price, with medical evac service. https://coach-net.com/24-7-protect-roadside-assistance/

I know that feeling.

We use the Good Sam RA program, but I think the Family Motor Coach Association may be even better. 👇 FMCA now accepts all kinds of RVs. Several years back, we had our CDory at Lake Powell with the CBrats group, and one of the boaters had a serious medical issue. I had to go to the main channel to get a signal to call NPS. By the time I got back into Oak Canyon, a medivac helicopter was there, and airlifted him to a larger city in Arizona. FMCA covered the medivac flight, his wife’s transportation from Page, AZ to the hospital, and returning his motor home and boat to San Diego. He had CO poisoning and sepsis, and was lucky to have survived.

🎶 On the Road Again 🎶

The brake assembly shown on the right is definitely a ‘left-hand’ Dexter Nev-R-Adjust. It will be interesting to see if the corresponding assembly on the curb side is the same, other than being the ‘right-hand’ equivalent. If so, it is possible you have two different axles. Perhaps one was a replacement as you speculate; hard to believe Oliver would mix-and-match axles. Here’s a pic of my curb side; you can see the adjustment cable to the left of the spindle (right-hand version), whereas yours is to the right (left-hand version). You might want to check if your axles still have the manufacturer’s sticker(s). I removed these from one axle for preservation sake. As a side note, to quote John E Davies “Be very sure to lube all the many moving parts of the brakes after a deep clean, they will not work properly otherwise.”, this is what I use.

My 2020 Ram 6.7 Diesel has exhaust brake, I think it was standard or maybe it came with the tow package. Either way, like Patriot and others I use it a lot. Mike

Here's latest CAT scale results for our 2022 SR5 2WD Crew Cab Tundra's new curb weight after installing accessories. I did not document accessory weights during installation. Installed Toyota side rails, Toyota folding hard bed cover, Toyota bed mat, Toyota Mud guards, and Timbren SES rear suspension kit. Weighed the Tundra with all contents removed, accessories installed, full 32 gallon fuel tank, and no occupants. Original rear differential jounce blocks: Timbren rear differential SES suspension system: Original payload of 1400 pounds from Toyota: Subtract new Curb weight from GVW to learn new payload. Very surprised by the results: GVW 6990 pounds - New Curb weight 5440 pounds = 1550 pounds. Toyota was very conservative with the payload weight of this vehicle, I'm sticking with listed 1400 pound original payload. Reading Truck on payload and towing capacities: https://www.readingtruck.com/calculating-your-trucks-maximum-payload-and-towing-capacity New Curb Weight:

Thanks for looking up those weights. Subtract 340 pounds from the load capacity making a new load capacity of 1060 pounds. Add that weight to the above curb weight. 1060 pounds + 5440 pounds = 6500 pounds that is 490 pounds under vehicle gross weight of 6990 pounds, use that method of finding payload or use the correct method to find actual payload by subtracting curb weight from gross weight, which is 6990 pounds - 5440 pounds = 1550 pounds. I will not exceed the placarded load capacities.

A quick internet search of your stated installed items reveals you've lost a little less than 350 pounds of cargo capacity. Toyota side rails 75 pounds each, total 150 pounds Toyota folding hard bed cover over 100 pounds Toyota bed mat 68 pounds Toyota Mud guards guessing less than 10 pounds Timbren SES rear suspension kit 12 pounds

That's a good news. I will have to try that. Thanks!

@jd1923 with that Cummins diesel engine brake, your truck and new trailer brakes should last a long time👍🏻. I rarely use my truck or trailer brakes on long mountain passes with the engine brake. We are really appreciating the diesel engine brake right now out here in the Colorado Rockies. In my experience, Ford absolutely nailed it on the diesel engine brake in our TV. It works excellent. Nice job on the rebuild! 👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸

I have to ask, how long does it take to fill that Ollie spare tire with the foot pump? 🤔 Mossey

The step brackets on the older frames are attached in a different place and mounting a current set of steps may involve some creativity. @CRM, I have an extra set of double steps that came off a trailer just a few hull numbers from yours that might bolt right up. We’d need to measure to make sure.

And, some of us don't carry folding picnic tables, nor bikes, awning screens, massive tool kits etc, etc. Some people camp a lot, in home state. Others travel a lot. Either way, what you carry depends on your own judgment. I think it's important to point out what you really should have, if you feel the need to carry a lot of gear. It's also important to recognize that some of us DON'T carry a lot, and don't "need" it, and don't need a huge truck. It all depends on our individual camping styles, and where we go. I've been super happy with my Silverado 1500 for over a decade, and it's my daily driver. But, my mom (88) now has a hard time getting into the cab, even with my smurf bars. I'm considering replacing it with an suv. (My husband's truck is way bigger, and impossible for her.) I'm watching the new , and used, offerings. I love my truck. And I can borrow an suv from my son-in-law, but that's cumbersome. I hate change, but, hey, sometimes it is what it is. Sometimes, we have to look ro the happy medium.

@SomeDaySoon, I'm sure you can add to the conversation on Canadian campgrounds, among other things. A lot of us truly enjoy the welcome of our northern friends and neighbors, and your beautiful Provincial and territory parks. Welcome from #12. Love your chosen screen name, but I'll probably be listening to that old Judy Collins song (that I loved) in my head for awhile....🤣

A quick internet search on the specs places it somewhere just below the capabilities of a newer model 1/2 ton pickup and way ahead of a '92 Ford Ranger.

Nice mount there, do you have pictures of how you wired that in? Would love to copy this one but didn't see a good route for the wires and want to learn from a good setup. Thanks! Brian

See my reply to your other post about the camera. The wiring can be accessed via the attic. You will need to remove the two self tapping screws/bolts at the bottom of the left (curbside) panel and pull down the insulation. You should be able to locate where the wires from the camera come through the roof. Follow those wires about a foot to 18 inches and you should come to the pin connector I mention in the other post. Bill

It takes less than 10 minutes to drain. If you are on an uphill slope it drains quickly. I drain my gray water when we get home in most cases. My method is to back into my parking spot and then go back and set up my drain line and open the valve. Then I unhitch the camper raising the tongue a few inches higher than the ball. By the time I park the truck and get back to the camper it’s done draining. Probably five minutes. Depending on where you live, you can drain gray water on the ground, some areas recommend this.

We also have two connections for water, one for City Water and one for Fresh. Regardless of City Water connection, when the pump is on it will always pull from the Fresh Tank. Not a big deal as long as you know what is happening and monitor it. BL

I too use one of those adapters that converts the discharge of the black/grey down to a garden hose size for the same reason - I do not use the black for anything other than #1. Obviously, this means that only liquids - either grey tank or the #1 in the black tank goes out that garden hose. which is left permanently attached to the connection in the Ollie bumper area. For those that do use the black tank for #2 then, just as obvious, they can not use a garden hose adapter. But, many have used a 45 degree "clear" adapter (like THIS or THIS) in order to be able to get to the connection better for the hose and to be able to see when the tank has actually emptied and/or is running with clear water. Bill

There is no harm in doing this however, I did discover something recently that was different from my AS days. in the AS, when I was connected to a low pressure city water I turned on the pump for a boost, worked great. I recently did the same in our LEII. We were in a campground for two nights. Before leaving the campsite I checked the fresh tank and found I had 50% remaining where I had 100% when we arrived. It turns out, anytime you turn the pump on it pulls from the fresh tank regardless of whether you are connected to city water. This is good to know and I would have preferred it not do that but OTT said it was part of the design to do that. - Brian

We use Thetford drain valve lubricant in both the gray and black tanks. We add add some lubricant after each time we drain, per the instructions on the bottle. https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-Drain-Valve-Lubricant-15843/dp/B000BGK2L0/ref=sr_1_2_pp?hvadid=282728663680&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3699281593567143709&hvtargid=kwd-407048891006&hydadcr=8059_10893331&keywords=thetford+rv+drain+valve+lubricant&qid=1695219174&sr=8-2 And, we leave the "stinky slinky" attached. So far, no notable leakage.

I found that my TPMS would alarm without the transmitter after traveling about 1/2 hour. I cut off the alligator clips on the transmitter and sodder on a USB connector onto the wire that I can connect into the Ollie USB connectors. The transmitter, using velcro strips, is located above the dinnete table. Works pretty slick and no more false alarms.

I'm with you on that Rick... regularly here... but rarely have something original or useful to contribute. That said... I think I'm nearly an Oliver RV specialist (🙃) with all the things I've investigated based on the problems and most importantly, the solutions that others have experienced with their Ollies. My goal is to resolve as many problems at home so that they don't happen while traveling. We just came home from 10 weeks traveling to the PNW and now back in driveway. Here, I have fixed the chintzy little (twice broken) plastic toilet flange with a stronger metal one. Then I finally got to inspect the gears and replace the grease in (all three) of the stabilizer gear boxes. This has been something I've wanted to do since JD's post on the subject. Knowing how to do things like resetting the refrigerator, cleaning the sail switch on the furnace or resetting the Truma hot water heater (after accidentally putting it into "clean mode"), understanding the EMS error codes and about a dozen other things are game changers because of what I've learned from all the forum contributors. I like to say "I'm busy fixing things that aren't broke... before they get worse." I hope I don't get thrown out because I don't post often! I think I'm an official signed in "member"? All this said... HELLO everyone! I like our forum!

Are bots counted as guest?

I am one who reads the forum almost daily but generally only log in if I think I have something to contribute to a conversation. My guess is I am not alone

We also have the Platinum package with the built in battery heaters. Because I only had one shared 15A outlet outside I throttled the Xantrex back to only 5A (setting 28) and it did just fine sitting outside here in CT all winter. The heaters don't draw much.

It's surprising that the Land Cruiser's capacity is so close to the Tundra's. My tire and loading sticker lists combined weight of cargo and passengers as 1320 pounds. That's closer to 1460, though, as I've removed the 40# roof basket and the 100# (by other owner's weight posting) 60% second row seating. The Heritage Edition already has the third row seats and running boards removed compared to the Base model. I'm not sure how the loading is calculated, though. Curb weight on the Heritage is listed at 5715 and GVWR at 7385, for a potential 1670 pound load capacity instead of the 1320 on the sticker. Since there are no options available, every truck should weigh right at curb weight. Color me confused... Deb and I consume about 350#, and Elite II tongue weight is listed at 490# before options. Figure tongue weight closer to 690# (12.5% of 5500 pound trailer), that leaves me about 420# of margin, less any other stuff I carry. So I'll need to take extra care to keep the trailer closer to 5000#.

Stepped on our Dometic 311 flush valve and it popped off. Upon inspection the flush mechanism can be worked by hand (eew) but it sheared the center pivot shaft. Dometic said…no part for that…so I have a new toilet on order to be delivered to our RV park while we are in Moab this week. I’ll paste in pix of the repair later on this thread. Anyone else had that flush (step on) mechanism shear off?

Exactly, Bill - I really try watching that, but occasionally the TUNDRA finds itself in the "Sport" mode... Holy C**P! It's like going into "Max Burner"! What's the placarded "not to exceed" payload on your Ford Eco? Just curious. My buddy was hauling his new 25-foot AS with his '22 Nissan turbo-ed Titan on this CO trip from NM. A much heavier TT than the Ollie, his mileage was about 3mpg less than ours - but his tongue weight was almost double ours at 975lbs. We brought our tongue weight scale along with us and measured his yesterday before leaving CB. We quickly discovered he was a couple hundred pounds over his max payload of 1200lbs. Ugh! Not good.