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Chris, there was a time that the CO/LP monitors required a hole to be cut because they were using a panel mount model. This one looks like the monitor was replaced with a different model when the original reached EOL. I agree with you about the Scotch-Lok connectors. My Hull #050 was full of them I've replaced most of them with Wago connectors.

At our last service visit in October, I was told that the new bathroom door will be identical to the current closet door only with a mirror attached to it. This should/will allow the door to be made by Oliver in house. The mirror would still be out sourced and attached to door. This new door/mirror will be a more rigid door than the present one. There is a possibility of this also being a retro fit. We’ll see! 😊 Patriot🇺🇸

My favorite English professor in college used to write romantic stuff to his wife. He once wrote their initial relationship was like "sweet wine," but that over the years as the relationship deepened, she became more essential, like "morning bread." He reported that the "morning bread" analogy was not well received...

Pretty cool!

Scott Oliver called me today. This is the latest info on the dealerships. They now have confirmed dealers in seven different states. Georgia, Massachusetts, Virginia, North Carolina, Texas, Colorado and Oregon. The dealership in North Carolina is Bumgarner Camping Center, Inc. | Lenoir NC. If you already are in talks with Oliver sales in Hohenwald about purchasing an Oliver and finalize that transaction within the next 90 days, you will have your sale and delivery handled in Hohenwald. Starting now, if you call Oliver sales in Hohenwald requesting information about buying an Oliver from a state that has a dealer, your call will be transferred to that dealership. They will handle your order and delivery from that point forward. If you don’t want to deal with that particular dealership for whatever reason, you may choose any other dealership in the nation. The reason the agreement is set up in this fashion is to avoid a conflict between the dealerships and the factory. You can still buy from a dealer of your choice and take delivery in Hohenwald if you so desire. Factory tours are still available. Two trailers were shipped today from Oliver to the dealership in Georgia. One of them is already been bought.

Rodney shared with me yesterday that they replaced the bathroom door with a more solid door. Not sure whether they made the doors in house or out sourced. He said the door had been discussed for sometime. Also not sure what the actual construction of the old door was and what the construction is for the new door. That's all I know.

One of the advantages of having a vintage model!

This mod might be a bit problematical. For a number of years, owners of Ollies requested convection microwaves. Unfortunately, the reason that I was given was that the area where the microwave is located simply didn't allow for the additional heat that a convection oven would generate. I have no idea of what may have been changed such that we finally got this choice of oven - that change could have been structural and/or regulatory. In any case, if you are considering this change, I'd recommend that you make absolutely sure that it is safe before you do it. A discussion with Oliver Service just might yield valuable information in this regard. Good luck! Bill

Things have changed - a bunch - since your Ollie and my Ollie were built. At the time these were built Oliver was doing much more custom work as the units came down the assembly line. NO wiring harness was used on any of them and as a result the electrician that worked on any particular unit wasn't necessarily the same one that worked on the next unit. Not too long after ours (perhaps around hull #200?) it was decided to have ALL Ollies wired the same. This not only standardized the wiring but made it better too and made it simpler, easier and more efficient to install. In turn, this actually saved Oliver money and was better for the ultimate owner too. A win-win! Bill

At least in my Ollie - there is wood in the drawers and behind the drawers, wood on the interior of the microwave area and wood in the panel between the both and the forward dinette seat. Of course, all of this wood is reasonably well protected from water and is not part of the integral structure of the Oliver. Bill

Today it was reported that defamation cost a well known person $148,000,000. Sometimes there are consequences to untrue statements.

We purchased the LevelMatePRO+ as a suggestion from @Ollie-Haus on a Black Friday post in our General Discussion forum (thank you Ollie!). We bought ours at the Black Friday price, about $110 total, taxed and shipped. Get the + model, as it can be hardwired via micro-USB, battery removed. It scared me seeing pics of this device screwed into the Oliver fiberglass, or even taped in position viewable in the living area. These devices do not need to be mounted in eyes view. I mounted ours under the rear dinette seat, where ample 12VDC connections can be made (see pic). Ours is screwed into the PD5100 Automatic Transfer Switch. Two 1/8" holes in this plastic housing vs. drilling into fiberglass seemed like a good idea. The installation instructions are wrong. They state to hardwire to 12VDC to cut the USB cable and to wire the white to +12V and the black to ground. This is wrong as the RED wire is +12VDC standard on all USB cables. Anyway, it's wired correctly now, and the final step would be for me to level the trailer to calibrate. Otherwise, it works well enough as-is since it was mounted pretty close to level.

Only the good ones use excess beautiful wood from Foy… Also Oliver does use a good amount of wood in certain areas of the trailer. This is not a negative IMO.

You can deal with the factory or go to any authorized dealer. Warranty service can still be done at a local business and reimbursed by Oliver. Mike

@ScubaRx Great news!! 🤩 We purchased our first Overland Camper an Intech “Pursue” from Bumgarner Camping Center in Lenoir. This is a small family owned business and they were excellent to deal with in both the sale and service of our former Intech. We actually know the owners and are excited for them to now be an Oliver sales and service center. The Bumgarner's are really fine folks and only an hour away from our home. Patriot🇺🇸

Replacing xantrax on my Oliver Elite II 2021. Can't beat power assist on Victron components (Uses battery to meet power requirements when specificed amount of current is set) I have had Victron Multiplus in my old camper and I am crying for the first time , I hate drilling into this beautiful Elite but can't get wires from upper cabinet to lower components without drilling. Going to install Victron MPPT - 100 /30 for outside solar panels 400 watts of ground deployed solar panels Victron Orion 12 volt to 12 Volt charger for vehicle charging and for a Pecron 500 amp hour battery I have under the bed. Victron Smartshunt for monitoring batteries Victron Cerbo GX for the brains of the operation all components plug into and are monitored by this device. Victron small touch screen Built wood support for Multiplus much heavier than xantrax probably double. (I did not lift or look at weights but had a friend put in place) (6 back surgeries lifting days are over) Here are some pictures Had one heck of time getting hole centered perfect to drill. Went as far as I could in corner of cabinet . . . . . .Little scary but turned out ok. Going to work on Battery box holes at same time and maybe add ventilation for batteries at same time. Thanks to everyone for posting information on ventilation Take care Montana Oliver

Hi Everyone, Has anyone changed out their standard microwave oven for a convection microwave oven? Our used Ollie came with a slightly used standard microwave and we have aspirations of cooking crispy browned food. Just curious if this swap is possible and what it would take to do it. It looks like we’d have to at least build a spacer/frame to compensate for its added depth. Thanks!

Gotta love this comment, "once!" I never thought the microwave/convection oven was such a great idea. At home we love our Emeril Air-Fryer. Couple years ago, his small model was on sale for $100 (now $200) and I bought two at the time (it measures 19x15x10"). We keep it under the front dinette seat where it fits nicely. In fact, there's enough room down there for a small pressure cooker and Chris' blow dryer too! I have a rubber mat under it and a short appliance extension cord so we can run it anywhere, inside or outside. At 1500W it can also run off the inverter when our batteries are good. merileveryday.com/shop/air_fryer_ovens/emeril_lagasse_power_airfryer_360

Not trying to hijack the thread, but it is for sure related to the above. Three enhancements that I found to be VERY beneficial for our TV (F-150 crew cab short box FX4) are: Bilstein 5100 rear shocks E-Rated AT tires Rear air bags Despite spending the last five summers out west in the mountains, I did not really understand this until we did our 45 day Alaska trip. GJ

JUST THE BEDS. But I recommend using just a 4" topper over the stock mattreses. It would bed less expensive and less troublesome for forragng under the beds and quite comfortable as well. GJ

Ralph: I agree with your sage advice: "don't leave home without it". Not for sway control.... Ollie has near zero. But for porposing and general handling. Your quirks comment got me a LOL. For sure for sure. To a new Anderson user, my Anderson Golden Rules are: Keep the Andersrson pin, pin hole, plate and shaft clean and lubricated. When disconnecting, loosen the big nuts all the way until the square shaft threads ends are well inside the nuts. Raising the connected Ollie/TV up with your front jack will greatly improve your effort to connect the Anderson plate. Make sure to disconnect your Anderson only with the TV and Ollie in line.. ie not at an angle with each other. Failure will result in bad words when you try to reconnect later..... GJ

OK - but it will have to wait until the next time I'm out at the storage yard - should be within the next two weeks. Bill I finally got out there this morning! Not exactly what you were asking for but I hope that the pics and measurements do you some good. This plastic bin fills the space below the forward dinette seat about as much as possible while still allowing relatively easy removal. With the bin in place I still have room for light things such as a bag or rags and a bag of individually wrapped plastic eating utensils. The top/lid snaps onto the "handles". To access the contents, I simply un-snap each side and rotate the lid 90 degrees. If I want to fully remove the lid for some reason, I un-snap the lid, rotate 90 degrees and then lift the lid out of the compartment. The measurements of the plastic bin at its largest points are: 15 3/4 inches wide - 21 inches long - 11 1/4 inches high/tall Bill

One of the concerns about installing a microwave / convection oven is the ability to allow any extra heat between the hulls to dissipate. Many hulls did not come with adequate vent holes in the cabinet walls to enable the heat to escape. While the oven does vent heat out of the front, there is a concern about any extra heat trapped between the hulls. Fortunately, The Wonder Egg - Hull #14, has extra vents in the side walls behind the oven, so I have gone to the micro/conv. option. The unit is deeper than the oven it replaced, so a plenum was added to accommodate the extra depth, resulting in a minor loss of space on the "chopping block" in front. It cooked a fine, crispy chicken once. Woohooo! Should you go with that option and your trailer does not have cross ventilation behind the oven, you may consider adding some before making that modification. How many, and how large, is up to you. I would think the more, the merrier.

I would think your trailer would have similar wood usage to @topgun2. I was under the impression that a limited amount was used in the closet and of course in all the drawers. As I said before I’d like to have more wood used in protected areas throughout the trailer. Personally giving up 500ish lbs of useful load for thick countertops, wood faced drawers, and higher quality fixtures would be ideal. Think the interior of a nice yacht vs a racing sailboat. Unfortunately, we took delivery after Oliver limited the options for countertops. Hull number…not sure somewhere in the 1070’s to 1080’s. Can’t confirm it’s in storage right now.

Yep.

I was not aware of that. Where is the wood located? What Hull # do you have?

Every time I work an install, I see stuff that's not right! OTT makes a GREAT double clamshell hull and then they just become another RV company. I worked as a professional auto accessory installer, back in the 70s-80s when cars came with AM radios and not much else. This work paid for college, and I must have installed over 100 car stereos, 60 auto alarms, 30 cruise controls, gas tanks, moonroofs and more. Management told us repeatedly to NEVER use 3M Scotchloks, that ALL connections must be spliced and crimped! Scotchloks are prone to failure, as they only just cut the insulation and touch the wire. 3M Scotchlok Electrical IDC 560B-BOX, Double Run or Tap, Flame Retardant, Blue, 18-16 AWG (solid/stranded), 14 AWG stranded (Pack of 25) - Fastener - Amazon.com This is all I found under the dinette, connecting the 12V USB connections under the dinette, and the CO monitor (I believe that's the unit under the seat) and 3M Scotchloks are used to connect the water pump too. Look at the 4" square cutout for this panel! We are ALL so worried about drilling into the fiberglass. This device ONLY needs 12VDC connections. A 1/4" hole would suffice and they cut a 4" square hole! OMG, which actually made their install harder as you can see the mounting screws just made contact. The double-white wire is power to the LevelMatePRO+ that I installed with crimp parts and taped. I rewired the CO monitor and USB ports that I found disconnected. Not pretty, but all fixed now and should be more reliable. I did tie up the wires after the picture. Hoping y'all with hull numbers >1000 have better installations. We bought an old hull, and I can only fix so much. 🙃

I have the Retrax tonneau cover with the T-track sides. This allows install of Yakima crossbars. On the Yakima HD crossbars are two 1Up bike carriers. These are rated for E-bikes. The bike in the photo is my size XL E-MTB with 29er size wheels. This setup has worked well and is surprisingly stable for my beast of a bike. It’s 50lbs but I remove the battery to be under 40lbs. For me this setup works great. I am able to hoist it up on to the rack as I’m 6ft5in tall with good shoulder strength. It would be tough for someone smaller and likely would need something to step up on.

Correct on Foy. Not sure about wood elsewhere, except drawers. At least I haven't found any while doing inspection and maintenance. Oliver has a new bathroom door in the 2024's, which is a big improvement. They are using some composites for things like the pantry door, and access panels under the bed and dinette seats, but no wood in any composite products. Need to talk my wife into some of Foys custom work😊

Not a negative, as long as it stays dry... Our Ollie had wood in the basement that had gotten wet over the years that needed replacement. Thankfully not structural and it was an easy fix using PVC board.

@gbergh, we had a close friend for dinner tonight, who designs Victron systems for sailboats. He, too, uses the multiplus, vs multiplus II. I asked him about the mounting positions. He always mounts normal , (letters up) , though victron technically allows sideways mount, on a bulkhead, for proper heat circulation. Even so, he adds muffin fans to exhaust heat, to a larger space, if enclosed. Victron has an overheat cutoff, but who wants that to happen, right? In our little 2008, I have no idea where we could mount a multiplus. It's simply too big. But then, we don't have an inverter, anyway. And, got rid of the 1000 watt inverter we had, as we didn't use it. When we refit our boat for solar some years back, our xantrex was only a year or two old, so, we kept it . (We rarely use the inverter, anyway.) Down the line, when necessary, it will likely be replaced with a multiplus, as many other components are victron. We can find ventilated room for it, somewhere. Thanks for your insight and comments.

Katanpilot, I do not possess the skill set nor the mindset to install the equipment properly.. If one has the skill and good mindset the cost to install is greatly reduced. The greatest cost of the project was installation cost. Take a look at the Victron Forum and there are many who will provide great ideas to a successful installation. I have also seen used gear for sale a few years young.. One who want to upgrade from a 12v to a 24v system etc. I believe strongly the Victron solution is the right solution. Does the Katanpilot refer the the DA20? I have had the delightful joy of left seat in that ship. Diamond makes some great airplanes.. Very Respectfully, George

@SeaDawg, I still have the Navion 24V. I chose the Multiplus over the Multiplus II. The Multiplus was a couple of hundred dollars less money. The Multiplus II is capable of handling Grid applications or functions. I saw no merit to the Grid capabilities. Victron sells either the MultiPlus or the MultiPlusII in various VA. The Victron solution has worked flawlessly for several years. I also employed the Victron and Battleborn system in my sailboat. Albeit, the sailbot was for racing and has a spartan interior, ie no Hot water, HVAC or Solar. I was concerned with powering running lights, autopilot and instruments. The battleborn afforded all the power I ever required as long as I monitored the battery temperature and kept it about 80 degrees F or less. I delivered sailboats to the Caribbean, Fllorida and two trips to England after I retired in 2000. The vast majority had a Victron system. As John Davies pointed out proper installation, temperatures and SOC, the Victron System is almost Bullet Proof. Respectfully, George Bergh

John in terms of "The wheel mount on the truck bed", I have the removable bed liner. I put a 3/4 inch of treated exterior plywood on the truck bed and inseted blind nuts. I replaced the removable bed mat and inserted eye bolts into the exterior plywood through the bed mat. This allows me to secure her recumbent trike. George Bergh

Same here. So far, during this year's outings we've never had to fire up the EU2000 because the 200w suitcase (and 340w rooftop array) gets the BBs well into the 90% SOC by keeping the suitcase aimed slightly ahead of the sun. We're planning a late DEC trip to Dallas in a week or so, with low sun angles and possible cloudy WX - the EU2000 may "see the light of day" finally... We'll keep y'all posted. Cheers!

Very nice installation. I wish we had that kind of room in the Oliver so the Multiplus could be installed vertically. I saw that one was installed horizontally in an Oliver and it's why I asked for feedback on his experience with it. Sure like the interoperability of the Victron components and I know they have a great reputation. Trying to decide if it's worth taking this installation on and spending the retirement dollars.

Honestly, the tailgate mat listed above is probably your best bet other than bolting a wheel mount in the bed, although this takes up a lot of storage space in the truck and makes removing the bikes a requirement before removing some gear. Locking your bikes up from thieves should be a consideration as well. I looked at all the options and have decided the rear mount on the Oliver is the best place for my application. I have a tonneau cover that keeps my gear locked up so a rack on top would make sure my bikes had the coveted Beetlejuice paint job everyone loves. Same for mounting them on the front bumper. There aren't really a whole lot of options. None of them are perfect but it sure beats not having our bikes when we want them.

I ‘bearly’ made it through the Escape video!

I do, too, as a Tesla owner, but there are difficulties there, too. Oliver family certainly doesn't have limited resources, but not the virtually unlimited resources of the Elon Musk group. I think they are treading a new carefully vetted path, to offer regional service, and sales. Nothing else changes, from what I've heard. Hohenwald is still the center of the Oliver universe. Let's give it a chance.

Pay attention here, light duty truck owners. This is absolutely true.

It was a typo on my part from the beginning. We are doing the andersen with our RAM 1500, max tow (14K). We acknowledge that we are limited with load. But we think we think we are comfortable with that. If it turns out we hate that, we will be upgrading to a 2500. I hope not. But we are prepared to deal with it, come what may. Again, I appreciate all the conversation. My mind is on fire trying not to screw this up. 🙂 My choice of Oliver is in no small way influenced by the frankness of the feedback from this board.

This reminds me of when we were visiting another couple in their camper while camping in South Carolina. They had left canned alcoholic beverages outside of the camper to keep them cool. Later that evening raccoons started running around chasing each other making making lots of noise. There were many pine trees in the campground and the raccoons started climbing and falling out of the trees, too. You could hear them when they hit the ground. We went outside and found holes chewed in all of the cans and realized the raccoons started acting up because they were drunk.

Thanks for your concerns John, No I do not have a electrical certification but have a electrical background, and I am working with a good friend who is a electrician. There is proper clearance on front and back , but time will tell with the heat , I have Govee thermostats that will monitor the space and alert me if its over 95 degrees. Your right we may have to put more ventilation and fans to blow out into garage as necessary. I would like to find room for a small mini split that I installed in my last trailer It was a 12 volt mini split. It was not efficient enough, It was a experiment and I would go with a 120 volt next time. It kept campers one room comfortable 75 degrees below 92 degrees outside. I am looking at upgrading the a/c this winter, have been looking for the best route to go with a heat pump. Yes heat could be a issue. time will tell. That is not a recommended mounting (have looked at many other forums they mounted horizontal with no issues) I did mount my other unit that way and the fan ran full blast when charging the batteries, but never overheated in higher temps. I could program the victron to charge at a slower rate and it was not a issue. I will definately keep eye on temps. 4 years of running my old unit never had a issue in same enclosed space, this unit is only charging 4 batteries and the other unit I had was charging six battleborns. I could run my ac approximately 6.5 hours stopping and starting every 7 to 10 minutes in 100 degree temps. The cover on the bottom and top can be removed for service also. I agree with you on there batteries, thats why I went with battleborn. I trust the BMS in the system. There are smaller, more compact manageable Lithium Lifepo4 batteries out there Lion energy and even batteries that are half the price out there. The BMS is the proof in the pudding , I put my full trust in there technology of BattleBorn . I have 3 x friends with the same Victron system and love it. Warranty is not a concern. I am not retired quite yet another 5 years , we camp from 30 to 45 days a year and that is pushing my time off already. Before I know it the system will be out of warranty. Yes safety should be my primary concern , mounting it that was is unfortunately only option in a oliver, cannot find another proper location that is high enough. This is a learning process , I am learning the oliver Elite II ins and outs and appreciate all of you for posts. Thanks for all your input. Time will tell. Here is a picture of my older first try system. Yes its messy. Definetely could open a can of worms here!

I use these also, not always, but when I know I’m going to stay a few days and the TV is disconnected. I place them under the forward Jack points, snug them up. I use a square chunk of rubber on the top of each so as not to scratch up the frame. This mitigates the rocking when someone goes up and down the stairs. I store them in the storage basket on the front.

Today Oliver posted on their Facebook page with 2 E-2's heading out on a flatbed for the Georgia Dealer I believe. Great photo with most of the employees. Then a former Oliver employee trashed Oliver and told people that there was all types of wood in the Oliver. Wood drawer covers, wood battery door, wood pantry door. Wood walls (front bulkhead wall, and more. It was a rabid dog foaming at the mouth. Claims her Mom said they were replacing rotted wood. Oliver deleted the comments. Like being on a bronco at the rodeo. People are down right nasty.