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John, All of our devices use USB-C, so I have a few of these scattered among our vehicles. They were $13 CyberMonday. Anker is a reputable brand. You'll likely find less expensive versions, but I've had no-name USB-A adapters melt before. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0843SCLYH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Our trailer has USB A ports. The oval end means you have a USB C cord. USB A to C adapters are available on Amazon and other places so you should be good. Mike

Super Duty to the rescue…Tesla has long long honeymoon way to go.😄

Cyber Truck? No thanks, not where we live.

Unfortunately - probably not.😉

EVs are for commuters, grocery-getters and soccer-Moms living in cities and suburbs, where every 24 hours you know exactly where you are going to plug-in (at home)! And it is in the cities where lower emissions are needed. No interest at all over here. Used my diesel truck recently to drive to Las Vegas for work. There and back, went 580 miles, on one tank of fuel. Try that with a gasser or worse yet an EV. Figure we will get a good 480 miles a tank towing, though so far we have only taken local camping trips. Camping with an EV TV? Which one are you going to plug in? 🤣 Tesla cars look odd enough to my old eyes. This truck looks worse. Couldn't they spend a little more fab time and round out those wheel wells? Really bad lines! Yuch

Like that stretch on the 378 from Pahrump, NV southwest through Shoshone to Baker, CA... Don't think you'll be seeing too many cyber vehicles in those parts...

Agree @SomeDaySoon I agree with most of what has been said. It is my experience that most people causing, or running the risk of causing, are people that just don’t care even though they know the risk (know but just don’t care or appreciate the risk). They fall more into the camp of “it will not happen to me” or the risk is over stated, or “it is just too much work for me tonight” or “I don’t have the extra water to put it out” (because it does take a lot of water. This is why I like propane fires as they go out quickly and don’t demand the water usage to put out.). I just don’t think these permit/educational videos move the needle with those folks. I have been to a few camping sites where they make water and water buckets easily accessible to the campers to help make sure fires get put out. I think initiatives like these help invoke action from people that actually help. I just don’t think lack of education is the main reason people don’t do it. Humans are more complex then that.

Coming from 30-40 ft RVs, the Oliver kitchen is just a little small. And we love our big breakfasts and dinners, married a great cook! At first, I was thinking we need a shield, something to protect the bedding from cooking spatters. Newer Olivers have their 2-burner stove turned 90 degrees, but now we're glad ours is facing the cook. Next thought was why not a shelf instead. The shelf would need to be removeable for bedtime. This is the result of a few ideas.

Sorry, tire pressure is not a matter of opinion! ☺️ Every truck, trailer and RV owner should measure the weight of each axle on a scale, then review the tire manufacture's load chart for your specific tire. Over-inflating is not being safer. It causes poor handling which is a safety issue, and internal damage (trailer construction issues, etc.) from excessive vibration. Under-inflating is certainly an issue as FMC learned 20 years ago over their Explorer fiasco. I weighed our EII during a camping trip and it came to right at 6K LBS. According to Michelin, I can run the tire minimum of 40 PSI (BTW @John E Daviesrecommends 42 PSI). The GVWR of the OTT EII is of course 7000 LBS and we should likely plan on running at load. Notice that at 50 PSI in the table, the dual rating is 3530 LBS, times 2 equals 7060 LBS. We are not running dually's, But tandem trailer wheels are very close (4 times the single rating comes to 1940 x 4 = 7760 LBS. OTT EII trailers should be run between 40 and 50 PSI, not higher as OTT and other RV manufacturers recommend (purely for liability reasons). I've been running mine at 48 PSI, and I will likely go lower to 45 next time out. The OTT Elite I has a GVWR of 5000 LBS on a single axle. I do not know the full specs, but let's assume the tires are the same Michelin model and size. The table shows that 70 (4880 LBS) is required (given these assumptions). The full 5000 LBS GVWR comes in right at 72.5 PSI. If you are pulling an Elite I empty, at 3700 LBS dry weight, 48 PSI would do! Say your EI weighs 4400 LBS, then 60 PSI is correct. If the EI has these same tires, pressures should run from 48 PSI empty to 72 PSI at full GVWR. BTW, this is MORE important in single-axle trailers and even more so for your tow vehicle. I'll take a blowout in my trailer (even with the resulting damage) over a blowout in the TV any day! Weigh your OTT and TV, check the load tables and run at correct pressure for your load, not what the sticker says. Agilis® CrossClimate® | Michelin Truck (michelinrvtires.com) Can we now end the tire pressure threads?

Agree that for RV towing these trucks are a definite no-go. The reason it is so angular is because the stainless steel panels are not bendable, but they are bullet proof!

Winter in the "Q" - great place for that LPG fire-pit warmed Clam!

I was able to install this without any permanent scar to the Oliver. The magnets came with screws, instead I used 3M 4950 VHB. The earth magnets are staggered for strength, and I taped an aluminum bar to the shelf (see pic) so it would not slide down. It sits on the upper 3 magnets. It takes a good pop to remove the shelf! Took more time thinking than the work to install. Figure the shelf will sit between the mattress and the nightstand when we are sleeping. Nice budget on this mod. Shelf, magnets and tape from Amazon. Amazon.com: DIY CARTEL Made in USA Linear Floating Shelf - USA Manufactured Steel - Industrial Heavy Duty Metal Wall Mounted Modern Farmhouse Rustic Designed Shelf (24-in X 8-in Powder Coated White) : Home & Kitchen

I am the first owner to book an appointment with Southland RV in Richmond Hill, Georgia for January 19th. Hopefully they will be able to find and repair the rain leak. I have spent way too much money, time and effort on this..so we will see what the first Oliver sanctioned RV repair place can do.

So, as Jimmy Buffett asked, "Is it ignorance or apathy?"

I sent in this request to Oliver, I thought that it would be good to also discuss this in the open forum. Hi, I plan to do a lot of travel off pavement in National Forests this summer. I have not read a word from Oliver about safe and effective methods of recovery, using a tow truck and also using more primitive methods..... (self rescue - jeep with a winch). Where would you hook up a recovery strap or chain in back to prevent damage to the aluminum frame? In the front? Would it be possible for me to add strong steel recovery hooks or rings in the back? if so where and how? Please let me know what the factory feels about this, and issue a bulletin for other owners. I don't plan on getting stuck, but if it happens I would like to know how to deal with it and minimize damage. Would it be OK to mount a pair of these on the aluminum frame just forward of the rear bumper? Discuss. John Davies Spokane WA

Now that would be an easy mod with real world benefits! Have on occasion wished it was there, but at the time it was not a priority. On my "B" list now! Thanks GJ

Do you only have the plug in 12volt anti-freeze heater kit option installed instead of the standard filter? If so, then yes you will need a standard filter to do the de-calcification process. They are available on Amazon from Truma, but pricey! And check in the Truma compartment thoroughly by opening the outside Truma access door. Some owners (and Oliver service folks) tuck the standard filter into the Truma unit in the area of the wiring harnesses. It just fits in there for storage but can be well hidden. Truma AquaGo Replacement Filter | Compatible with Truma AquaGo Hot Water Heater https://a.co/d/3KBZRdb

I see what you did there...

Rear-wheel steering on a 3/4 ton pickup would be really nice to have, though!

I went back toy charger and it is the regular USB, which will plug in just fine. This must have been a brain fart on my part. Not sure how I was thinking there was a "C" end.🙃

+1 My wife has (2-3 year old) Oticon hearing aids with a USB-A charging plug, which works fine with the Blue Sea 2x USB-A outlets that Oliver was installing back in late 2018. I'm not familiar with what they're installing now. I'm not surprised that Oticon has likely upgraded to USB-C charging since then as its becoming much more universal. We also have several Anker 12V USB-A/C adapter plugs similar to the one Steve Morris has shown above, and second his recommendation for Anker USB products. I did a quick survey on the Blue Sea website, and could not find any USB-C flush-mount outlets from Blue Sea available yet. Those outlets are not difficult to swap out if you can find one from a quality manufacturer that has the same form factor as the factory installed units (thus eliminating the need to use the separate USB adaptor plug...). A USB-A to USB-C adapter would also work as Mike has suggested.

@mossemi: Thanks, Mossey! This will be a memorable Christmas and New Year for sure and for certain! Cheers to all!

are those magnets?

@2500 watts and 12 volts Your amperage would be around 210 amps most I ever plan to use. Keeping the length of cable down is critical. Keeping cables under 10 ft should be o..k.k. for 2/0 according to many of charts I have looked at. Critical to have good fuse. Thats what protects your wiring.

An Elite interior, which we looked at very briefly before ordering our OLE2. It was just a bit too cozy for us and not as tall an interior if you’re over 6’2. A show stopper for us.

The instructional video on the permit site is pretty good, actually. Good information. Since I'm not going camping in California anytime soon, I didn't complete the app to see if you had to even check a box to say you'd watched it. If it saves one devastating, probably worth the free application. Awareness is everything. Ps, I don't know the stats on careless camper fires. We all know there are many other causes.

So, the last picture shows how clean the brake master reservoir looked after service. The first thing I do is get the truck on jack stands (it was already up for suspension work and trans service). You can bleed brakes with wheels on, but I prefer to take it straight on and then it only takes a few minutes. The fluid in my master cylinder reservoir was BLACK with clumps of junk in the bottom, and same in the calipers. I drained the calipers when off the vehicle, bleed valves open, using a Channel Lock to compress both cylinders. Removed the reservoir and cleaned it inside. There was a pin punched in place to hold the reservoir to the master. I filled a little tub with full strength Super Clean ($10/gal at Walmart), let it soak overnight and next day shook the reservoir hard until everything came loose and clean. To bleed the brakes, you need a container (I use an empty handle-bottle of Vodka!) and an 18" length of clear hose, that fits the bleed valve. Clear so you can see air bubbles and the color of the fluid. Some say bleed the furthest wheel first, but it really doesn't matter. Some of you with modern ABS systems may need additional service, but only if you have any ABS issues. You can open the bleeder valve and just pump the brake pedal hard a few pumps (hose connected into bottle). Make sure you keep an eye on the reservoir, and never let it empty. The last bleed, your partner needs to pump the brakes 2-3 times hard, hold them down and do not let go, then you open the bleed valve and close it. She can now let her foot off the brakes (that would be my wife Chris). Your brakes will be much improved and safe in the mountains. Do yourself a favor, pop your hood today and look at your brake fluid. If you see anything but clean clear fluid, schedule this maintenance! 😊

Not really. Yes, there are more Elite II’s so the conversation trends that way. Elite I’s are just as important, though fewer in number. There are differences between the two, but there is a lot of commonality. Don’t feel slighted, continue to contribute as an Elite I owner. Our senior members @SeaDawg, @bugeyedriver and @ScubaRx all are/were Elite I owners. You won’t find more knowledge and insight than you will get from them and other Elite I owners here on this forum. Mike

For Alaska we made reservations at key spot's first. 1) Denali National Park 2) Homer Alaska 3) Seward Municipal Campground 4) All of the BC Parks 5) Commercial Campgrounds in Whitehorse, Fairbanks.' Yukon Territorial Parks are all first come parks. (So plan for noon arrival to get the most choices.) When we booked Seward, we logged on the "first hour" of the first day they were available. By the time we finished booking our 4 nights, the number of sites had dropped to 10% available and that was in about 30 mins. Craig

Sounds like a thermostat problem, that is the only common point in the wiring of the two systems as far as I know. Can you just pull the circuit breaker for the AC for now? If that doesn't do it, take the 'stat off the wall and disconnect the low voltage wires for the heat strip. Tape them so they can't short out. Refer to your manual for the diagram. I don't have this setup.... "Mouse" has a 1950s style mercury thermostat for the furnace and no heat strip. Crude, but 100% reliable. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA