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We have our first grandchild and his name is... Wait for it... Oliver! (He's going to love our trailer when he's old enough to read!)

Just FYI: Our Alcan springs arrived this afternoon - just from observation, definitely a big difference in quality between the Chinese-made Dexters and these new ones. Measured eye-to-eye dimension to verify 25.25" across the board w/3" drop - all good there. Planning to have D drive Casablanca around some of the rather "rutty" roads in the neighborhood with me in the back to (hopefully) get a feel for the "before and after" install ride inside. Spring R&R will begin in the AM - we'll for sure keep y'all posted on the effort... Cheers!

Are all the cracked doors on 2017 Olivers? Me thinks maybe there’s something goin’ on with a batch of doors. I’ve had Lippert door leak problems on two different truck campers, so I’m inclined to suspect Oliver may have been the recipient of another bad batch. The campers were custom built pop ups made in California by a friend, and component quality has been an issue for him. This may be worth having a discussion with Oliver about their supplier.

Looking at the photos of the cracks, it appears they all are located around the aftermarket window. That makes me wonder if the installation, in conjunction with wind, might be the culprit. I’d consider removing the window to see if there is excessive compression of the door materials due to the fitting of the new window. While the cracks are an eyesore, I’m not certain they’re catastrophic. Instead of duct tape, you might consider using Eternabond repair tape. Maybe first stop drilling the cracks to limit their ability to run. Edit: looks like Art and I were on the same page, same time.

My 2017 LE2 door looks identical! I do not think wind had anything to do with it, but maybe sun exposure. It has puzzled me for several years and I haven’t really figured out how to fix it. The skin does pull the styrofoam apart, so I’m not sure if replacing the skin is the answer. I am leaning towards applying something to the existing skin, just haven’t figured out what. Mossey

Like mentioned earlier, it looks like the door could have been caught by a wind gust judging by the crack being nearer to the hinges. Short of replacing the inner skin (which is totally doable, we've done one in a previous SOB), suggest finding both ends of the crack (under the window moulding and along hinge line) and "stop drilling" a 1/8" hole there. This process will stop the crack from getting longer. Its a foam-core door, so there shouldn't be any "draft" ambient air penetrating the inside crack from outside. We've got one a couple inches under our window moulding that runs horizontally for about 10". We "stopped drilled" the crack on @ScubaRx's suggestion after he saw it in Quartzsite last JAN. Good luck, cool maintenance/repair opportunity for you, @Steve-Gwenne - let us know how it turns out! Cheers!

Your profile shows a 2017. Even so, I'd open a service ticket. Those cracks look like the door was let go in wind, and stressed, to me. White duct tape will seal it for now. I'd guess a new door is in order. Imo.

I started in photography back in the mid 60's when everything was manual. No auto exposure or focus. My first camera did not even have a light meter. Had to use a hand held one and set the camera's aperture and shutter speed from that. Manipulating either or both to create different effects. Bought 35mm film in 100 foot rolls and wound my own cartridges in total darkness. It was all black and white. I thought I was Ansel Adams. I even lugged a big 2-1/4 square camera and tripod to the top of Sentinel Dome in Yosemite to duplicate AA's picture of the old Jeffrey Pine growing there. Here's Ansel Adams original: Unfortunately, unbeknownst to me, the tree had died during an extreme drought three summers before despite the rangers best efforts of hauling water to the top every day to try to save it. So all I have to show for my trek up the dome is a picture of a dead tree. Oh well, it was a famous tree.

Ditto.

Our door has cracked all around the window area as well. Being the original owner I can say that our door has not been abused. I’ve seen a few other doors with the same issue as well. I’m guessing that this may be age related. I feel like this is definitely not an Oliver issue. The door is basically a thick piece of styrofoam with a thin fiberglass sheet glued to the outside and a thin sheet of plastic glued to the inside. Probably if you tried to peel the inside sheet off of the styrofoam it would damage the styrofoam. I’ve tried to figure out how to fix the cracking without having to completely replace the door, but probably will have to live with it.

Several questions here - 1 - I've only seen one other door on an Oliver that had these same "symptoms". I believe that the owner replaced the door. 2 - All of the original doors on Olivers are NOT made by Oliver. I believe that Lippert makes them but am not positive. All doors originally come with "frosted/textured glass". There are a couple of "treatments" that can include replacement glass that is tinted such that it matches the rest of the windows (except for the bath) in the Ollie. 3 - I agree with the posts above that the "cracking" probably started with the replacement window being installed improperly. Add to this the black frame on the window would have different thermal properties causing it to expand/contract at different rates as compared to the surrounding white material. Add slamming the door or a wind guest and once the cracks start you'll more than likely get more cracks. 4 - given #1 above - it is likely that the cracking will continue and that the material will start "flaking". Perhaps tape of some sort will slow that process. But, most likely the process will get water/moisture behind it and simply start cracking/flaking in another spot. Therefore, either replace that interior portion of the door or get a new door. Good luck! Bill p.s. HERE is a company/product that many Oliver owners (to include myself) have used to change the glass AND install a "shade" inside the window.

Will be very interested in your results!

Definitely not normal. I've never seen anything like that before. The doors are basically hollow - fiberglass exterior and that plastic (fiberglass?) on the inside. Our Oliver door has foam insulation inside. I assume you bought this trailer used? Can't tell from the photos, are the cracks pushed in, or pushed outward? Any damage to the outside of the door? The window with shade is aftermarket. Maybe the damage was caused by that installation? The door can be replaced if you wish. I probably would.

Our 2021 OEII came with a 2" hitch mount rack receiver but the installation was (in my view and with respect to a lot of other good work done by the prior owner of our trailer) not quite up to 'factory standard'. In fact the U-bolt-based attachment method distorted the receiver shape just enough to make installation, and especially removal, of our 1Up hitch rack next to impossible. So I sought to improve upon it. After some research I settled on a receiver ostensibly designed for use on certain Lexus GX460 models: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRKR1Q4X Drilling and attachment was straightforward given a drill press, a decent 1/2" bit, appropriate measuring tools, and a center punch. The aluminum is relatively soft and drilling oil was not used. I have not been able to get all the chips out of the interior, but did not try too hard to remove an end cap and access the box section beam interior that way. The hardware is 3 1/2" x 1/2" stainless with stainless and yellow zinc washers. We have not tested the setup on the road yet, but static fitment went fine. The receiver and backing plate are fairly heavy; according to the retailer, about 10 pounds. This item is designed for towing, when attached to a GX460; it is likely overkill for this application, but that's OK by me. A side benefit is the receiver has safety chain mounts through which a cable lock could be passed. I discussed this with Jason and he indicated the factory were considering offering a 2" receiver option moving forward. Our bike rack is 2", our cars and TV have 2" receivers, and use of an adapter was not appealing to me. In hindsight I might have painted it white, or silver 😀 Enjoy! Tim

This could be a concern. Stories about SOB poor dealer service experiences are legion. No sale/no service, wait times measured in months, etc. For now, I'll hope that the dealers that OTT chose (or the other way around) will be better. On the larger picture, Oliver trailers are arguably one of the most expensive per square foot on the market. To us, direct factory sales and available factory service were part of the justification for the pricing.

Thanks. I’ve scheduled at Cavender Ford which is 1.5 miles from the Alamo koa in San Antonio and has shuttle service for the day. I’ll report back later on how it went.

Congrats! I hope yours is closer than our first grandchild that lives in Tasmania, Australia. We just got back from a seven week visit there. John

I have several THOUSAND USGS Maps in my Geological 'library'. If you want to find 'good rocks' you have to know where to find them... theory. My wife and I enjoy what we call 'The Hunt'. We like looking for interesting rocks, minerals, fossils and even find items that hunter's lose while hunting. Easter Egg Hunter's syndrome. The hunt in the Wilderness never is a one day experience. I can even identify what we find... Cedar Breaks, Utah is 10,200 feet elevation. I said 7,800 feet... wrong. Go through Cedar City, Utah and about half way through town you will find the turn to the East to Cedar Breaks. When it is Hot in Cedar City... you will not be camped at Cedar Breaks. Geological Maps are also great to find obscure camp sites, but what was being mined or weathering out afterwards. Great exercise, as well. Your lungs at 10,200 feet improve your ability when down to your elevation at home. Really...

That window with integrated shade is aftermarket and uses the original door. You can find them online and install it yourself. Not too difficult. However, if they do replace the entire door, they can buy one with that option already installed.

Looks like a pretty cool door! Our a 2016, a little older, only has a bathroom-style frosted glass window. Would this be a custom door, DIY replaced? The picture shows an accordion style roll-up shade, clear glass behind. This is a special RV door! It would be difficult to replace one with like options. I would think about repairing the interior skin. You could remove the window bezel and then remove the interior skin and replace that with sheets of 1/8" textured white plexiglass. You have cracks everywhere! Many around the window appear to the exactly horizontal and then the obvious one, down the bottom-left corner. Does anybody else here have this style of door? If so, then yes service ticket, but it looks like a mod to me. If it was mine, I'd love to replace the interior door skin, and make it better than new!

I agree with Stephanie and Dudley. That is not normal. I have never seen anything like it either. My question would also be about the installation of the aftermarket window in the door first, then some other damage done to it.

@jd1923 & @Townesw I think i will remove the two pressure regulators from inside the camper (since OTT did in 2018) in favor of using an adjustable one on the hose going to the camper. I think that will be the best solution because I think a large part of my problem came from those getting clogged up. I'll try and replace them this weekend and test it, along with cleaning the filter/screen on the bottom of the toilet as @MAX Burner suggested.

Been to the Silver Bean many times, got the SS coffee mug to prove it, HA! Great Joe there, for sure. This was in '18 while on our annual "Spine of the Rockies" ride going through Cortez, CO:

@jd1923 That same regulator package, F3004 from RV Water Filter Store, was $138, shipped, in July 2019. I don’t know where it was made. Google “Camco water pressure regulator vs. diaphragm water pressure regulator” and read some of the discussions that pop up. This is one that I found: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/water-pressure-regulators-255560.html We primarily use full hookups, so this isn’t going to help if you’re using the pump.

If you find it hard to thread the cover back on, use a little lube on the threads, Vaseline, WD-40, lite weight oil, doesn't take very much, less is probably better them too much. trainman

$13 for for the newer hatch that Oliver Service sold me. I prefer it over the threaded hatch.

When an Oliver Elite is retired... I am not sure what I will be able to do with ours. The Oliver may outlive both of us and a lucky buyer can make use of it for another decade or more. Then they pass it onto someone else. I like the thought... but an Airstream owner in Cortez, Colorado, retired the trailer, and put it to use. There was a smaller Airstream in the back lot, as well, for staging at Rodeos and Parades. It was stolen several years ago I heard. A stolen 'Silver Bean' will be difficult to pass it off with obvious current... modifications. The sign on the Stolen 'Silver Bean' was great for a 'F350 Silver Bean' opportunity photo. See it over the cab? Geez, get with it. Those without a Sense of Humor are bound to be bored and spend too much time torquing lug nuts. Anyone with an Oliver Elite having a new purpose?

The best part of buying an Oliver has been the Service Department. Will owners still be able to submit service tickets online, and get a response from the team in Hohenwald? I hope the response to service tickets is not: "See your local dealer."

Thanks Steve. I believe Oliver did much research when selecting the new centers and for now I'll have to trust them. (fingers crossed)

Your questions are good ones for ANY TV with airbags. With airbags and Anderson: The chain tension can cause structural issues with the the TV and Ollie, as well as with headlight aim. They can be set for towing to eliminate rear TV squat, and that may require less of a drop in your TV receiver. My Firestone AB's don't auto adjust, but they do require that I adjust their pressure each time I hook up or unhook Ollie. GJ

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/dealers/

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/dealers/

This is disappointing. I feel betrayed. I bought from the manufacturer as it was represented at the time, with the service being provided at the factory. I am asking myself now if I made a costly mistake. There is no dealer closer to me than Holenwald and I do not expect there will be. I also question how responsive a dealer will be to me since I did not buy my trailer from them. Dealers care more about selling than they do service. Does this also include warranty work? My clock is ticking...

Great news! Congratulations- Mike

Your window has "clips" versus the screws that the older Ollies enjoy. Bill

I've done both shims and an "anti-rattle" hitch that Mossemi put me on to which is much better than the first two I tried. Even with that - on a trip of roughly 6,000 miles I will still have to tighten things up at least once or twice during the trip. If Mossemi doesn't beat me to it, I'll get you the name of that anti-rattle hitch. Bill

Congratulations! Mossey

Me too. All of us are interested! An engineering experiment... What if you had a large chunk of clay and put it between the axle and the frame. Drove down a test road and measured the height of compression before and after the test drive. Then do the same test, same path of road, with new leaf springs. The clay would likely be taller to start, but a ratio of compression, before and after would be measured. Yep, clay is old-school, so I love it! There are modern ways to measure this... My challenge to you, my special new friend, Art! 🤣

We'll see. With our minimalist style, I'm still unsure if our plans will include lithium. We're installing it on the boat, but unsure about the trailer. Because, we're not sure we need it. We'll see.

Great thread here! This post is key, from senior IRV2 member TeJay: "The cheap RV regulators don't regulate the pressure they just restrict the flow. That will in effect reduce the chance of over pressurizing your system if a CG has high water pressure. You do have a reduction of pressure but also a reduction of flow. With a true regulator you don't lose the flow or volume." Thank you, Bill & Martha! Yes, remove the cheap restrictors and purchase a quality pressure regulator. @Lisa Rae just came to this conclusion as she wrote above. I will also delete the installed restrictors. Lisa, you may consider removing the (winterizing/boondocking) brass water valves that restrict the flow to 1/4". I replaced them with motorized valves, or you could use manual valves that are 1/2" or at least 3/8" ID which is the true ID of 1/2" PEX connectors. Now I see why they only promise the 40-50 PSI range, since they restrict flow and not pressure. This is also the reason why my upgraded water pump provides better flow and pressure pulling from the Fresh Tank, vs when we connect the City Water inlet at the campsite. We still have the bathroom faucet issue, i.e. less flow than the kitchen faucet. There must be something inherent to the plumbing of our 2016 hulls, since many newer model owners do not have this complaint. I don't believe it's mineral buildup, since that would be everywhere, and I measured without the faucet heads installed. You can't "kink" PEX, but more length and multiple restricting connectors could do it. Also in ours, the plumbing in the vanity makes way more noise than our quiet new water pump. After we finish our travel this season, I will open the bathroom vanity and follow the water lines (and the furnace ducting) from the pump at the curbside bed to the wet bath!

Our Dog House cap was getting a bit "gritty" and difficult to thread - so we swapped it with one of the "fresh" caps in the overheads, cleaned the threads on the DH side then lubed the cap w/a touch of Vaseline and attached the stainless steel lanyard (so as not to leave it adrift). All good again!

I towed our Oliver with two different Ram 1500’s, similar to yours but neither had airbags. I used the Andersen with them. Mike

Wow you must be photography buff. You are correct. I try to keep them "simplized" (Yea that is another GJ concocted new word) as: The Keystone effect is when lines converge with distance. Parallax on the other hand is when an object appears differently when viewed from two different points when in motion. The picture of the cabinet door has a bit of the former as you astutely observed. But, if I am inside Ollie, and my wife is driving down the highway, would Parallasium, not to be confused with paralaxium, end up being Keystoning when viewed from an infinite distance? Think on that one for a while. GJ: PS: I can't as it gives me a brain circuit trip.

The Airstream Mothership hired her many decades ago...

I'm an old map guy too, but you cannot ever buy the thousands of USGS maps, in quadrangle detail available. I have hiking maps, trail maps marked with dispersed camping detail, and more. Not talking about driving down an Interstate or US highway. Check out this map we downloaded for your first ever Oliver camp last July. Do note, the roads with the '. . .' alongside the roads. These stand for roads that allow dispersed camping. There is NOT a printed map in the world that shows this detail except for some NFS maps. The blue dot was our camp and the next pic explains itself!

We've followed John's recommendation for our Tundra - a game changer...

My new springs arrived today. I confirmed measurements are correct and that they are the same size as what my E2 had when it shopped from the factory. Should be a direct bolt-in. Here are the specs on the new springs: -Made in USA with USA sourced 5160 spring steel -Bronze eye bushings vs. plastic -2,000lb rating/ea vs. 1,750 (will not change gvwr as axles/bearings remain determining factor) -5 leaves vs, 4 -second leaf extends underneath eye on each end (protecting common break area) -steel, bolted spring keepers (one each end) vs a single, sheet metal band -width = 1.75" -drop = 3” -length (eye-to-eye) = 25.25” The company I sourced them from is ALCAN. They are known for durable offroading springs and have been building custom springs for rock crawlers and overlanding vehicles for decades. Attached below is their contact info. Ask for Mike and tell him you are interested in the 1.75” wide trailer springs like he sold to Lance from Colorado. I will report back when I have them installed, but that may not be for a couple months until after the snow melts up here in the Rockies

I insert the lid into the hatch housing turn it and it clicks and it’s secured. Not sure if you call that a hinged? I really like the ease of use vs the threading version.

I think that is good advice, John. It's probably a very good starting point but we all drive under different conditions and the "FEEL" you're talking about will be different for us all. Safe travels! 🙂

Sorry for the late response. You asked about what I meant by the term "Feel of the Front Axle." You can think of it as the "Seat of the Pants Feel," that you can actually sense while driving down the road. I suggest that the next time you have your Oliver Hooked up, you experiment with the Hitch Adjustments. First, take a very short Road Test with the Hitch adjusted as normal and pay particular attention to the Feel of the Front Axle, i.e. Tires/Axle! Now, loosening the Adjusting Nuts (1-2 turns) on the Chains and take another short Road Test , and compare the Feel you experience. You will probably feel a Light Sensation (less weight) on the Front Axle and may even notice a slight elevation of the Hood and a lowed stance of the back end of the TV. The difference in the FEEL, is the result of less weight being transferred to the Front Axle of the TV. Now, tighten the Adjusting Nuts 1/2 (one half turn) turn at a time, and Road Tests again while noting the sensation you feel in the Front Axle. Do a couple of Road Tests and I am sure you will get the hang of it.The Ride should progressively feel more FIRM, I'd be surprised if you don't feel the WEIGHT actually being spread across both the Front and Rear Axles of the TV. Congratulations, you have just "Fine Turned" your RV WDH!