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HDR: Yep, was a great long standing approach for Black/Gray tank cleaning. Used it in my previous camper. But, "In 2011 it was discovered Pine Sol, Glade, Tide, Febreze, Clorox, and Simple Green, contain chemicals that are known to cause hormone disruption, pregnancy complications, birth defects, and cancer, and can aggravate allergies.". So it was reformulated. The new version does not have the punch of the ole one. Combined with the bath beads, it still is pretty good for our purposes. But it is an expensive blend compared to the cost of two or three dishwasher machine pods. Comparing the effectiveness of the two approaches, they seem be about the same. So either one will work. But comparatively, why not save about 2 1/2 pounds and some $$ too? Certainly worth giving the dishwasher pods a shot. GJ

In a different lifetime, I used food grade dyes of various colors to trace water sources. Start with Gray water lines with a lighter color dye, then try the black water system with a darker color. Then a very diluted light blue color for the fresh water. If none of the colors show up, it's condensation. Just a matter of elimination of possibilities to get you to the solution. Lessons learned the hard way: Suggest being careful to maintain control of all the effluent as it will stain concrete. It does not take much dye to be effective. More than just a tad and you can create problems for yourself. Wear gloves. My left hand was blue for quite a while! Used to hold it up and say... "I've got the blues". 😞 GJ

FEDERAL INCOME TAX CREDIT FOR QUALIFIED SOLAR ELECTRIC EXPENDITURES The Residential Clean Energy Credit (“CEC”) provides taxpayers with a credit in an amount equal to 30% of the costs of new, qualified clean energy property installed anytime from 2022 through 2032.1 The CEC applies to costs towards the purchase of property which which uses solar energy to generate electricity for use in a dwelling unit located in the United States and used as a primary or secondary residence.2 As relevant to the CEC, a “dwelling unit” generally includes mobile homes having basic living accommodations such as sleeping space, toilet, and cooking facilities (as are included with each Oliver Travel Trailers model).3 Property eligible for the CEC includes new solar panels, qualifying batteries having a capacity of at least 3 kilowatt hours, and related storage components (e.g., inverters, wiring, and monitoring equipment). If applicable, the CEC will reduce, on a dollar-for-dollar basis, the consumer’s federal income tax liability in the year of purchase. Excess unused credits can be forward to future years. ILLUSTRATIVE TAX BENEFITS Solar Package Lithium Pro Lithium Platinum Legacy Elite $5,330 N/A Tax Credit (At 30%) $1,599 N/A Legacy Elite II $7,120 $12,425 Tax Credit (At 30%) $7,120 $3,728 CLAIMING THE CREDIT After purchasing your Oliver Travel Trailers camper with solar package, keep your receipts for the total price paid to document your eligibility for the CEC. Include Form 5695, Residential Energy Credits, with your tax return to claim the credit. When filing, include the tax credit calculated on Form 5695 onto your IRS Form 1040 and file your tax return with the IRS to receive the credit. Depending on your state of residence, additional state tax credits may be available. The information contained in this summary is informational in nature, is not a warranty or certification as to applicability of any tax credits to the products described herein and should not be construed as tax advice to any specific individual or entity. Customers should consult with their own tax advisor with respect to your eligibility for the credit. 1 IRC § 25D(g)(3). 2 IRC §§ 25D(d)(2); 280A(f)(1)(A); IRS Notice 2013-70, 2013-47 I.R.B. 528 (11/1/2013). 3 Prop. Reg. 1.280A-1(c)(1) https://olivertraveltrailers.com/tax-credit-information/

We're used the Pine-Sol-Calgon solution 4-5 times over the last 6 months, and I did not smell a thing. My sense of smell is acute. Last time out, I smelled some in the toilet, since the toilet had been left without any water in the bowl. With a good seal and water in the bowl, and clean water meaning no Pine-Sol in the plumbing traps, you really should not smell it. Cause can be plumbing leaks or plumbing vents that do not seal. These vents are designed to allow air in and not out. But who knows, when the TT is bouncing down the road! That being said... In the future, I'm going with @Geronimo John's suggestion to use dishwasher soap pods. Do you really need 2-3? I would think 1 should suffice. I like this option because the pods are light, small and travel nicely. With Pine-Sol you really have to be careful, not only in transport but in application. If you do not very carefully put a cup of the liquid down one sink, no spills, flush the trap, then yep as @SeaDawg wrote, you're going to smell it.

If you're treating grey tank with pinesol, be prepared for a lot of heavy pine smelling vapors coming from the sink drains, etc. I often use pinesol to clean my toilets at home. But, I run the exhaust fan, afterwards. Otherwise, I smell pinesol for days. Pinesol was on the list of agents that killed covid back in 2020, so I started using it again, then, since disinfectants being very tough to find... but, I scored a gallon of pinesol. 🙂

Both Dishwater Soap and Laundry Soap can get sudsy. However, Dishwasher Soap does not. If it does not suds, you can use more of it. Just suggesting less suds, the less potential for a Bubble Bath In Ollie!

What a wonderful evening! Thanks to everyone behind the scenes, and it was good to see new and old friends.

Hi friends my name is Fernando Alicea im from NJ. 8 months ago I purchased a use Oliver Hall#6 2008 from the original owner in Tennessee. He have problems with water leaking on all the windows. The emergency window on the back is completely sealed with clear silicone and the other widows a lot of work been done to them throughout the years. I really want to bring it back to the original condition. If any body knows where can I buy the original windows I will appreciate any help. thank you

The forum has given me more work to do again! Love the new fan with light. I won't bore everyone with the same information already available from previous posts but great upgrade. The only thing I might have done in retrospect is drill a 1/4 in hole adjacent to the 6 in opening so that the wires had a better home rather than squeezed between the fiberglass and shroud.

Oh, I forgot to mention I blew the fuse for the fan in the sub panel in the attic. Left side, 5th down 7.5 amp. I recommend taking it out before wiring.

Yosemite today: The pond near swinging bridge was dead calm.

Hi, Fernando. You now own a little piece of history! #6! Wow. Hehr was the original window manufacturer. Some years ago, they were bought out by Lippert. I do not believe that the exact same size windows are available, anymore, but slightly larger is . I would open a new ticket, and specifically ask Jason, as they refitted #1 as original, a number of years ago. That said, there may be nothing wrong with your original windows. The mildewed seals can be replaced. Do they all open and close properly? The back window may or may not actually be the leaking culprit . Most of us early hull owners have found that the true problem was the Oliver sign above the rear window. You'll know if that's the culprit if you tape all around it with clear or white duct tape. That said, our rear window did leak at one time, fairly early on. We corrected that problem by removing the window, cleaning up all the old caulk (not an easy job with all that silicone smeared everywhere on yours), and reinstalled it using synthetic butyl "tape" as a bedding material. Our rear window rough opening was pretty "rough" indeed, and a tiny bit larger for the window than it should have been, but since carefully reinstalling with butyl many years ago, we've had no leaks from the window. If any of the double pane windows have fogged, there are a number of places around the country that will remove and repair fogged windows. I can highly recommend Suncoast Design in Hudson Florida, should you want to travel. There are still a handful of original 2008 owners who are friends of mine. Some, like Pete (bugeyedriver on the forum) are still active here. We're all happy to help. Sherry/Seadawg

I don't know whether you bought this new or used. I buy mostly used vehicles and there are often wires disconnect for various reasons. I have disconnected wires at a fuse box intentionally when I retire some device, but then I would also label and tape down the wire. You really want to know what it is that you are connecting. Given you bought this new, you would think all wires should be connected. However, the wire could be from a standard wire harness for an option you did not purchase. The only way these would get disconnected is from somebody working down there or perhaps placing something lose in the area. These spade terminals do not fall off by themselves from regular use of the trailer. If you want to connect this without knowing what the wire powers, it does not matter to which terminal it is connected. It's all a 12V bus bar. What matters is the amperage of the connected fuse. Without knowing what it powers, it would be impossible to know the correct fuse amperage. Are slots #14 or #15 labeled with fuses inserted? That would help to determine purpose. Perhaps somebody, not only with a 2022 model, but with the same 12V accessories you ordered, can help. I suggest opening a Service Ticket, providing this picture, asking first the purpose so the panel can be labeled properly and then where it should be inserted.

Sorry for the bad "in line" fuse idea...but just a thought. Glad to see you found the issue!!

Welcome to our OTT Forum @Fernando Alicea! Hull #6 - WOW how cool.😂 She looks great! New windows would certainly improve the whole trailer. There are some experts here on the older Elite I Olivers. Everybody is quiet this week since so many are at the annual OTT Rally. I will mention @SeaDawg and @ScubaRx since they are a wealth of historic and general information and so they see this thread soon. If you want a quick answer, I would call OTT Service tomorrow before the weekend. They could look up your hull # and let you know the manufacturer or perhaps supply the windows you need. Best wishes and keep us posted on the maintenance of your classic Oliver.

On the road at Kartcher cavern SP in AZ. Since we are here for a week, I decided to Replace all tires and installed 4 new shocks at 50k miles. At same time checked springs for wear /cracks and re-lubed all Zerks. The tires had simply aged out but one in particular had an odd scalloping wear pattern. (Cause was a slightly loose bearing castle nut on that right/front wheel.) The shocks were getting a bit rusty and I decided to change as prevention. ( All 4 seemed functional upon removal.) Since the original tires were 16” LT Michelin, I stuck with the brand and now run: Michelin Agilis Cross Climate LT225 /75 R16 115R E1 BSW Shock replacement is: Monroe Magnum RV 555001 I was able to get the tires at a local Discount Tire in Sierra Vista. ( took 3 in one day and 2 the next as we had chores in town. ) Ordered shocks online and shipped to my sisters who we visited on the way here. Shocks went on quickly once the unit was jacked up so suspension was hanging. All set for the next stage of our trip where we will meet up with several owners at Ladybird Johnson for the Eclipse.

Our pump will not cycle on at all even when left on for hours. The pump should pressurize the plumbing, but hot the tank given the overflow is always open. I noticed a minor drip on the far rear weep hole at a different time. What you experienced could have been your level a a bit off. We get the level spot-on with the LevelMatePRO and it was level at the time when the leak was pictured. I have never noticed any drip on the driver's side, all curbside, and this points to a plumbing leak vs. condensation. I want to thank everybody here who made suggestions, add pictures, etc. This is very helpful. I'm not getting right on this work very soon, but I will update this thread as I do. Our Oliver is parked now and until after Labor Day and I have much M&R planned for our off-season (home, TV and Oliver projects)!

Thank you

Two site pix from this week. Sequoia NP - Potwisha CG -Site 11 we saw another Oliver at the same campground. Hi to Marybeth & Neil pix below. Yosemite NP - Wawona CG -Site 74

Thank you SteveCr. Your solution wound up working for me! I just went the long way about it only because I hadn't been on line since. Everything was working except the app so I started attempting to solve the issue using emails. First, I followed the Lithionics instructions, Nothing. Then I submitted a ticket to Oliver. Oliver Service had nothing to add other than contact Lithionics. I contacted them first by emails using the emails in our service manuals. After not receiving a reply, I called them. They said they had never received my emails but were happy to help. The Lithionics man had never heard of the BLE Scanner they have listed in their troubleshooting guide. His solution was to turn off the batteries that were not working, so I did. Then push and hold the on button for 30 seconds which I did. The app immediately found the batteries and all is good! Thank you for your help! Kraig

Does your water pump cycle on from time to time even when not using water? If so, that probably indicates a slow leak somewhere in your plumbing system. When you first turn your water pump on, it will pressurize the tank and then turn off. It will not come on again unless you turn on a faucet or flush the toilet. However, if there is a very slow leak, it will come on again after a few minutes or longer because the leak will gradually lower the pressure in the water system. This happened to me last time out after traveling about 30 miles on washboard roads. I traced the problem to a slow leak in one of the push-in compression fittings by the Truma on demand water heater. Even though the leak was in the rear of the Ollie, the leaking water was dripping out one of the forward weep holes.

@jd1923 my guess is the hose clamp on the through hull fitting is loose or the fitting itself is cracked and water from the fresh tank sloshing has run down and out the hull drain. Hull 313 only has one hull drain in that area , plus the fridge drain and the overflow drain. I would remove the drawers and the panel at the back of the drawer cavity and make sure the sink trap fitting is tight and that you don’t have a leak from the faucet. Then stick your phone camera in behind the fridge and make a video.

Like to get to this upgrade (I hear buy it in Mexico for <$) after new leafs and a quiet AC unit, and more... Spent $1600 for Christmas on our Peplink setup and that has served us well. I could just magnet mount mine nextdoor to your Parsec antenna on the TV! The Pepwave router has the WAN input too and has the SW logic to seamlessly switch between Internet sources.

Thanks @rideandfly agree they are different builds. Hoping the internal seals and other components are superior. Time will tell. Those of you with these, going on long trips this season, please inspect your shocks afterwards to see if there are any leaks. They can only be better! 😂

Galway Girl , hope you don't mind my posting photos of the Bulldog and original Monroe shocks for a physical comparison, we were curious if they were different builds. Here's the original Monroe shock next to the new Bulldog shock. The rod cover is longer on the Bulldog and rod end of cylinder is built differently, they are different builds.

Sounds like a great start! Is there a video or transcript of Rodney's opening remarks posted anywhere ... for those of us who could not attend the Rally?

…great opening ceremony talk by Rodney Lomax, excellent dinner company, awesome raffle prizes - all along with a beautiful sunset!!!🌆 Perfect way to start the Rally!

We put Calgon and Pine-Sol in our black tank. Mix 40 ounces of Pine-Sol with enough water to just about fill a gallon jug. Top off with a half cup of Calgon Bath Beads. Use eight ounces in each tank (or more in especially hot weather or if your tanks will be filling up slowly over time).

After 160,000 miles on our original shocks (2013 F250), it was overdue for new ones. While inspecting the underside of the truck the Ford service guy found the rubber bushings between the frame and cab, and frame and bed, were either gone or rotted, allowing steel on steel. The truck rides so much better. Next time I won't wait so long.

I often use a paper clip or any other small conductor for testing. Mossey

You’re not the only person who has made that or a similar mistake. Dont beat yourself up. Bill’s advice is spot on.

Either way - not the end of the world as we know it. I'd flush the heck out of both tanks and call it a day. Bill

Made it through last night fairly "high and dry" - although there is a slight after-smell of wet huskies in the camper... Oh, well, it's how we roll. T-storms started again early this AM (0230) through about 0445. Nobody slept - coffee came early and prep for R&R operations with Dusten Bowden (18-year veteran of OTT). The Dexter Nev-R-Lubes swapped without even a hiccup... ABOVE: Removed and replaced the rear axle first then attacked the front... ABOVE: Note the size difference between the 12" and 10" drums... about 19% more braking surface area. ABOVE: Took about 3.5 hrs for the axle R&R, back on the road now and headed toward Nashville over the next several days. Had to stop for this pic - here's "3 hearty cheers" to Jim Oliver for designing what we consider the best TT for the money in the US RV market! Roll-on, regardless...

It's doable, Steve -- let's compare notes at the rally. I've got some ideas to float by you...

We're headed along that path also - I'm not even going to think about it until the 2kW Xantrax dies its slow death. But for now it meets all our boon docking needs. Granted, we're not in the southern states durning summer when AC is needed at times. In the summer Rockies -- all one really needs are good window screens or maybe a CLAM. Running the AC off the battery bank is definitely appealing - but for us, only after we've used up the the 2kW inverter and he's totally given up the ghost... Then we'll look at the inverter/charger option with our Lithiums.

What many do not realize is that Motorola only dabbled in consumer electronics (10-20% of sales), through the years, and yes often failed from poor marketing. Motorola was an engineering company, manufacturing backend systems for commercial use and government, along with semiconductor manufacturing used by Apple, HP and so many others. The point I was making was the useful application of technology. First point, I certainly do not need a TT that is so heavy, I would need a 550-grade commercial truck to pull it! Many locations we camp, a rig >24FT would not go. I see the 3-axles Air Streams and fifth wheels everywhere and wonder. They may soon downsize as we have. Honestly, you want these features, flat roof with 10+ solar panels, buy a Class-A RV. We also don't need a balcony on our TT, OMG! 🤣 If you can't walk down 2-3 steps and plant your feet on the ground, why are you camping? Sure it's cool, but is it useful application of technology? I think not. I also see aluminum and rivets in their builds. They offer 100-gal FWT which is another 800+ LBS when full. I could not find a spec sheet without filling out a form and wonder re actual GTWR. Should OTT improve their design? Of course. Flat roof? Not for me. It will create more wind drag and take away from the elemental beauty of the OTT. All the tech in that Living Vehicle and they offer the same 2000W Inverter that we have? I was amazed how our old 340W solar and 450AH lead-acid kept us dry-camping 2 1/2 weeks and battery charge never got below 80% (we do live in the sunny dry SW). I will upgrade to LI and 3000W inverter, only to run a new efficient AC to be fully self-contained. We can do all that in our old hull for just a few thousand dollars. All those bells and whistles have their cost, upfront and down the road. The $300K base package (their 24' model) is approx. 3x the cost of an Oliver. I imagine some of you have that money, but we only had enough discretionary, for this purpose, for our used Oliver. The Oliver cannot be considered a hybrid, as it cannot be driven down the road on its own accord. An EV Truck for camping? 🤣 What are you going to charge first? Your house batteries or the EV TV? How much extra solar wattage would be required for the EV TV? Living Vehicle advertises their product can charge the EV. Problem is when the EV TV needs recharging is when the sun is setting... LI batteries do weigh less, but batteries in an EV TV and enough batteries in the TT to recharge the TV add up to 1000s of LBS in batteries. Some of us worry about 50 LBS of water in the HWH. Wonder when Living Vehicle will get up to over 1500 units sold?

Just some random thoughts: 1) The roofline is designed for the storage lockers, electrical chases, and headroom down the fore/aft passageway. But, how about a more curved roofline to accommodate future efficient flexible solar module? Massive investment required for designing and making new body molds. 2) Right now, the current size battery compartment can hold 2 x 200A-Hr lithiums (I'm thinking there was recently a post on this 400A-Hr upgrade). The question is, "how many A/Hrs of storage do I need?" That's an individual decision - some camping styles are met with a single AGM w/95A-Hr capacity and other owners need 600A/Hrs to meet their camping needs, neither one is right or wrong -- "if it fits, wear it!" For us, 300A-Hrs works perfectly well for the camping style we practice. A larger battery compartment sounds great, but, like a new roofline, means designing new fiberglass molds - a huge expense that may not yield a return Oliver's investment unless that "600A-Hr market" is bigger than one could imagine. Obviously, more battery capacity can be gained by solar generators or using space in the TV for more lithiums - to make up for the current compartment size if someone's style of camping needs it. 3) We're 100% onboard with a full-on Victron package - but, again, that's for our style. We learned just yesterday from Josh, OTT sales manager, that 2024 models now have an available DC-DC charger. That upgrade was a game changer for us. The point being, OTT may be listening to owners and their needs through these forums. It appears that someone in the OTT decision chain keyed-in on this need - and it's now a reality. As we know, Victron, Renogy, Xantrax, and others have integrated suites (controlled/monitored by a single mobile device app) of smart solar MPPT controllers, shunts, inverter-chargers, touch screens, tank monitors, etc., that can bring the basic OTT well into the future of RV'ing. 4) Built-in water filtration would be nice. There's a rather large list of options from in-line activated charcoal filters to whole-RV reverse osmosis systems - goes back to, y'all know by now, "individual camping style." For us, we keep a Travel Berkey in its carry case under the front dinette seat. Deploys to the nightstand and out of the way of the flat screen. We disinfect the fresh water tank and plumbing no less than 2x/annually, always fill the FWT at the start of the trip with "softened" well water from the house (keeps mineral buildup lower). 5) OK - sometimes size matters, right? A 28 - 32 footer wouldn't fit in our shop, so for us, that's a no-go. A 27'ft- OTT would fit if my storage racks along the back wall were removed - not happening. However, think of what a 28 - 32 foot OTT would look like - would it still be 7 feet wide? That would make it look like an Oscar Meyer Wiener going down the road... IMO! We like the maneuverability of the LE2 - same (basic) width as the TV, great turning radius, great GVWR, and a dream to haul around. Don't even mind the "wet-head." Would a slightly wider (same length) option be favorable? Heck yes... 7-1/2' wide, might be a winner. The LE2 interior length is roughly 18' - that would be another 9-sqft of hard-to-come-by real estate inside! But those new hull molds literally cost in the $-millions to manufacture. So another question might be, "How long can OTT ride the current "RV market wave" using existing hull molds?" Perhaps greater capacity solar modules and a more integrated/higher capability electronics suite could be on their radar - but who knows? End of random thoughts... Cheers!

Update for the Oct 21-24 Texas Oliver Rally. Princess craft and approved dealer for oliver, has agreed to sponsor BBQ dinner for our rally the night of October 23rd. They also plan to have a service tech there to answer any questions. Hopefully we will have good weather but I will be reserving a covered pavilion. Princess Craft has been in contact with Phil from Oliver and he has offered to provide giveaway items for our event as well.

Similar issue I think. Stereo went black between campgrounds. There is a 15Amp fuse that the schematic shows. I pulled the fuse which was fine. Then using my multimeter I checked wire #15 at the plug, black to #16, red to #15. I was getting 13+ volts at the harness so all was good there. I also submitted a ticket with Oliver but they referred me to Furrion. The number in my manual to Furrion is no longer valid. At some point Lippert bought out Furrion so I contacted Lippert. After a short wait the tech told me since I have power past the fuse it is an internal issue. Mine is in a 2022 LEII so it's out of warranty. They don't stock parts so their best advice was buy another one. Would love to fine one that fit the same hole in the trailer but was made in America instead of China. I told the guy although it's been over a year as far as date, the actual unit probably only has about 6 months of use. He said he understood. He sent me the link to order a new one, $367.95 is hard for me to justify for a 6 month product. Im hoping yours was just the fuse.