Leaderboard

Before doing too much, suggest verifying all the water valves in the curb side rear bunk area are fully turned in the proper direction. If one is partially shut WEIRD things happen. GJ

To All, Mine were abraded somewhere within the axle tube in the middle between the hubs. There was about 12' of wire stuffed in the axle between the hubs. Mike T. & I were in discussion, as we both had this issue at overlapping times. I believe I was just further in the process when we discussed. I will include pics (of both dbl. insulated wires) of where abrading exposed to the bare copper within the two insulations. I did not remember to label front & rear. It was explained to me that the during the forming of the axle tubes (and this may vary depending upon manufacturer) the inside of some may get a robotic welding, as well as the outside. the outside of course is smoothed off and painted. The inside, depending on the process may get a smoothing, however most of them are left with weld spatter inside so the axle tube on the inside resembles a concave wood rasp... just what we do NOT want to house our brake wires. Mine actually look like they were somehow pinched, or maybe during the shorting out process heated up enough to melt(?) the insulation near the abrasions. So I went straight to a previously read article by Prof. JED, Emeritus, which dealt with replacing the brake wiring. I ran my newly purchased (NAPA Shielded Brake Cable) wires outside the Axle Tubes, putting them thru a loom at about 9 o'clock (to the rear) to protect from rocks or other strikes. Using butt-splice connectors from the Shielded Brake Cable wires to the leads going into the brakes, then buttered the connectors up with adhesive-sealant to further protect connectors from moisture. I have some ZIP TIES (I've been told, like the ones 'LE' uses on your wrists...) which are 1/2" wide and abt 1/8" thick, and used those secure the loom to the axles. At least that was my approach at the time, as I wanted to get back to camping. The Brakes have worked as they should. B~Out

Our sink and shower would back up, or at best drain very slow, and would not completely empty when dumping gray water. We knew the previous owner had some roof repair that included a new vent cap. So, we took the cap off expecting to find a bird or wasp nest or something blocking and causing an air lock. We used a shop vac and was surprised when we removed a half gallon of water. Problem solved. Between the time the cap and been damaged and replaced, the uncovered vent must have experienced a rain storm. Hull 803.

Thank Gawd, this procedure was explained. I envisioned struggling holding the fridge on my shoulder, whilst walking up-down the runway, patting it on its back. B~Out

Skipster, Please go to your account settings and then click on Signature. Then enter info on your trailer and tow vehicle, as Craig (Galway Girl) has done. This really helps those who read your posts understand a bit more about the Trailer or Tow vehicle, and they can give more direct answer or suggestion. As Craig mentioned, Pictures (see his post) can help people see what you are seeing. I just finished reading Craig's post on his Battery Box issue and thought of your issue i had read earlier. Craig is correct, similar but not the same. Nice fish on your account page, where was that caught? additional comment I am having the same issue with the basement door latch raising, but the door stays closed, while under tow. The door may be a bit sprung, as it is always dropping to the tether when opened. But i am not seeing any issue with the rivets at the bottom. This started on the way to/from ND to AK. However not enough for the door to open, so i just started locking it. i need to figure out what the issue is and repair it before our next outing. Bryan

so bottom line I bought a blackstone griddle with side burner and a fitting from amazon and all problems solved .

We decided to replace our sewer hose with a Lippert Cam Lock version. They are expensive but have a nice design that includes a smooth interior and that improves flow. I used the honey pot option so I wouldn’t have to modify the interlocking connection on the Oliver. I purchased the primary hose, a coupler, and the honey pot cable for the same functionality. I also received an adapter that can be used to permanently modify the Oliver, but don’t anticipate ever using it. I did purchase the hose adapter to convert the honey pot hose to allow a garden hose connection as we only dump grey water and want to be able to dump to a container for longer stays where we don’t have sewer hookups at the campsite. I have attached a video. IMG_0349.mov

Our site at Piñon Flats fit our trailer fine. There was a 25’ Airstream two sites away.

That rules out the tv DVD player. I would verify the tv wiring first as it’s easier to get to. Next compare the tv wiring to the stereo wiring, which should be accessible through a port hole in the upper street side cabinet. I’m not familiar with your equipment, but the video signal is probably a HDMI cable. Mossey

My domestic fridge just stopped cooling, no signs of leakage. Everything testing good on the troubleshooting guides. The opinion of the local RV guy was that I had a failed cooling unit. That left me with two options: buy a new unit or replace the cooling unit. After talking to Jason at Oliver and him telling me that to remove the fridge from the trailer you need to remove the door, I thought I would try to replace the cooling unit myself. I found some places that would ship a unit for $500 to $1000 and I do the install. I watched many videos and researched the work. In this research I found several people talking about burping this kind of unit, it entails flipping the unit on its side, top and allowing the ammonia mixture to reposition and displace any air pockets. Since I had to remove the fridge from its housing I thought I would try it...and it worked! We just took a 10 day trip and it worked fine. Some RV techs said it was a wive's tale. Glad I tried it. Hope this might help somebody.

The antenna should not have anything to do with the DVD player. It is a little difficult to diagnose without knowing more about your tv and stereo equipment. I will add that my LE2 #193 has 2 DVD players, one in the tv and another in the stereo and we can use either to watch a DVD on the tv. Mossey

A look at my permanently installed black tank connection; requires cutting off the bayonet coupler and gluing on the cam lock fitting. View of waste hose connected; allows for rear bumper to be closed. However, I usually keep an end cap fitted with a hose for gray water management; the hose has a valve at its’ terminus. Another benefit, the clear silicone hose serves as a sight glass in the event of a black tank valve leak.

@Mike and Carol Your pics look remotely familiar. These were shot in 2008...

A shot from the Dunes showing the Airstream.

Update: My original spare tire was shorter, 215/60R/16 on hull #75. Other 2015 & 2016 LE2's reported so far have 215/70R/16 (taller) spare tires. I had to move the spare tire mount up 7/16" for the new (taller) 225/75R/15E spare tire (standard on new LE2's) to fit correctly in my original spare tire fiberglass housing. It's possible that folks with the taller original spare tire might not have move the spare tire mount up, but I recommend trying a 225/75R/15 first before buying one. Oliver should have them at the plant, I'm in North Carolina and happy to use my spare tire to see if it will fit on your trailer without modifications if you're in the Charlotte NC area. Made four plugs from a piece of hard plastic board (kitchen cutting board) to fill the empty 7/16" slots above the mounting bolts to keep spare tire wheel mount from moving downward in transit. Used a hacksaw to cut the plugs out and a belt sander to shape the plugs and sand to same thickness as the aluminum mount plate. Also have a piece of UHMW plastic board I could have used, but the cutting board was closer to the correct thickness and should be fine. 🙂

Good advice posted above! We had an older Furrion unit (Hull #75) when the Furrion's DVD player starter acting up. Ours was out of warranty. Eventually found an RV surplus dealer on Ebay that had an exact replacement new unit on the shelf.

I don't know if you ordered directly from Dexter that it would be considered a custom order. They may or may not be cheaper directly from a Dexter distributor. You won’t get a straight answer from anyone until you have your as built information. Mossey

Thank you!

Skipster, One issue I have with the Battery Tray is one side catches easily when pushing it in, the other side does not and i have to make an additional effort for it to latch properly. if you have this issue, could that have sprung your Battery Door at the hinge. Your post makes me want to examine my Batt Door hinge, when the offending side does not catch. And Craig's post makes me want to check my rivets on the door sides and monitor going forward. B~Out

That would be very convenient if Oliver will order your axles! Please post your axle build sheet when you get it! I can update the list, if needed.

@rideadeuce - A tip...Last year when we went to Alaska we bought some yoga mats and used some 3M no residue tape to attach them to the lower front of our trailer. They worked like a champ at keeping gravel from the Yukon highways from chipping the body of the trailer. We also used a roll of clear rug protection plastic from Home Depot on top of the Yoga Mats to keep them from absorbing moisture. Below: First week of the trip and the yoga mat's are doing well...tne extra coat of vinyl floor protection film is holding water at bay. F Below: After a full 9 weeks on the road the yoga mat's took the beating, but our trailer was protected. Below - After yoga mat removal and quick wash...

Bulldog shocks are a bit beefier and look like they are well made. Easy swap. Leaf springs look good, still on the fence about upgrading to the Alcan 5 leaf springs. Clips were loose on both springs on the right. Center bolt nut on the left EZ flex was loose and about to fall off. All of the Monroe shocks seemed to be in good working order just rusty. Future plans include the ALCAN highway so trying to get everything done now. New tires in the morning. https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 Wildpeak H/T02 LT225/75R16 E/10PLY BSW *** Now back to torquing the shocks so that the cushion is the same diameter as the metal retainer but not larger. ***

Just brought her home, new to us 2017 Elite II. Hull 207. We are so excited to be here and to be the proud new owners of this beauty! We have a Casita independence which we will be selling. We live in NH. We both retired in the past few years and want to explore our amazing United States while we are still in our go go years. We are looking forward to learning about the Ollie and enjoying adventures on the road.

This is most likely cause. Is HDMI connected to the TV? Next step, can the Furrion play a CD, sound coming from the 4 speakers. If so, the player is likely fine and the HDMI signal not getting to TV.

It’s your trailer and nothing is off limits! Unscrew those port holes and check out what’s behind them. Lift the basement covers under the mattresses and check out what is there. If you are out in the middle of nowhere it’s good to know everything you can about your trusty Oliver. Mike

Bryan, as I recall I just used traditional tools. With the tray empty and pulled out it was not difficult to access. Mike

I'm not well versed on RV water pump internals. Thinking that if the pump needs rebuilding though it would run on, for not building up pressure and/or produce less GPM. There is a set pressure for these pumps to kick-in. If pressure is regulated by the diaphragm, then this kit could do it. But I'm thinking there is an independent pressure sensor that a pump rebuild would not correct. @Steph and Dud B's pump motor twice did not activate when it dropped well below pressure. I replaced my working OEM just to improve performance. My hull is older and hopefully a 2022 hull would have a better OEM pump than this.

In April 2024 (this year) I had the factory review the repair. Jason said it all looked stable and they didn't see any further signs of fatigue or cracks. I'm keeping my fingers cross and carrying a rivet gun and stainless rivets in the truck just in case. Craig

I had issues where my battery box actually broke loose along the top mounting flange and had to be repaired. It sounds like yours is along the bottom. Maybe send a pix to show the issue? Craig - Hull 505 Here's that battery box thread...

You’ll love NH! Thank you for the travel hints!

I just developed this same problem in my Dometic (2018 Oliver, Hull 310). Replaced the thermistor, that didn't fix it. I'm going to try this burping technique next, otherwise I'm looking at purchasing a new fridge! Wish me luck!

I meant auto-adjust. John E Davies disliked them and suggested to replace them. I thought that was crazy and some others agreed they were good as-is. Per @mossemi's post above. You went to OTT and they said they could not fit yours, ONLY because they do not at this time stock the 50" axles. Check your other post, end of page 1 where @rideandfly on July 22 had called Dexter and found both axle lengths can be ordered: New axles may not fit all older sub-frames - Page 2 - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Am I happy with mine? No, I got them serviced OK. But wish I had not spent $200 on Timken bearings and maintenance and saved that money to buy the 5200 LB axles with 12" brakes. Mine will be OK for a couple years, since we do not drive many miles. But prior to another maintenance and ANY addition of repair parts, I'll just wait and replace the full axle/brake assemblies, also with improved bearings and adjusters, at some later date. And Install Alcan springs at the same time.

There is a kit available to rebuild the diaphragm pumps for Shur-Flo. It a very straightforward rebuild and worth it if the pump motor is working. The part is very compact and is good to have in the vehicle if you don’t travel with a spare.

Agreed. I was having some strange behavior with my original water pump. My trailer's a 2021, so I couldn't believe that the pump was going bad. Well, I changed the pump and suddenly had no problems. I kept the old pump, don't know why, but at least the water system is working properly!

Ty J, It was my Humor, which gets me in trouble every now and then. I really did understand that the Clips, Clamps and Braces, would come off before use. And we will be installing a tether of some sorts on the frame to bath door/latch, as it popped open again while under tow on our last trip, however nothing was damaged this time. B~OUT

William, it was good talking to you as the diesel was flowing! After encountering MAX Burner I was not expecting another!! Thanks for stopping and hopefully we can talk about your Alaska trip. Mike

What a surprise when D and I were screaming around a left turn in the Jemez Mountains of northern NM and spotted that "oh, so familiar" big red Texico Star prominently fixed on the nose of Mike's and Carol's Oliver at a local service station! D poked me hard in the ribs and shouted over the roar of the engine downshifting to an appropriate gear for what will become a serious "bat-turn", "Look! There's Mike and Carol!" HA! Sure enough, we circled back and pulled into the station to say, "HEY!" After blasting out a, "Hey, MIKE!" -- it was clear from his 2,000 yard stare that Mike had no clue who was addressing him from atop a big Beemer, so, like Mike described above, I introduced myself and the look of recognition appeared on his face and we both laughed! I'm certain that this will likely remain as our most exciting "Oliver Sighting" ever! Small world, for sure! Cheers!

I suspect that the lighter rated springs oscillate at a higher frequency and travel more than they would with stiffer leaf springs causing the OEM shocks to wear out sooner than expected. Our new Monroe's lasted less than a year before replacing them when we upgraded to the D52s.

Mine are fine. We’ve put about 5,000 miles on the ALCANS and all is well! Mike

You’ll need to salute each time you exit! 🤣

I don’t know how to answer your question other than by example. The attached chart from Oliver shows a ‘Charger Current’ setting of 150A supplied by a Xantrex 3000W (3.0) unit in an Elite ll equipped with either a 390 or 640AH Lithium battery package. For Elite l with a 260AH battery bank and Xantrex 2000W (2.0) unit, 100A. I should note however, that my stated 108A combined charge current (110A minus a couple amps of draw) was not sustained for long and soon after showed erratic output in the 38 to 107 amp range. When checked, the Victron charger was steady, whereas the Xantrex output varied.

UPDATE: The Victron Cerbo/30A charger combo is operating as planned, this setup is adequately maintaining the LFP battery bank when in storage for a lengthy period of time. The only adjustment made was a prior change in the Cerbo’s on/off settings to 75 and 95%, respectively. According to the VictronConnect app, two subsequent charge cycles were recorded by the charger. Upon arrival at the Cow Barn yesterday, the SOC was 95%; I unplugged from shore power and was able to run a two-hour duration test on the A/C with no issues, dropping the SOC to 50%. Pre-combo install, I was unable to run the A/C on inverter due to low SOC upon arrival, and had to use a generator to cool the Oliver while performing routine maintenance and/or repairs; gets really hot in a metal enclosure during the summer heat in Texas! When shore power was reconnected, both the Xantrex (80A) and Victron (30A) chargers came into play. Beginning of test. End of test. Dual charger current.

You could hang one of these guys to remind you to "duck."

Ours was one of the tight ones! Good site though. So far it is always easier to drive out than back in!

Sounds like you preformed a refrigerant equivalent of the Canalith Repositioning Procedure. I’m impressed. That was a bold move and I’m really glad it worked for you. Do you have any idea what might have caused the original problem?

Well I couldn't stand it any longer and painted my window shades bright white. My understanding is that the window shades are not available from the manufacture in white so Although not a quick fix mine are now bright white. The plastic and my Krylon Supermax paint for plastic didn't get along real well with some of the shades even after cleaning them with a degreaser. I then tried some of an old stand by Krylon Fusion, I had a limited supply of it in a flat white so used it as a primer then second coated it with the Supermax I'm not sure why this worked but it did and the results are fantastic. There is a lot longer story on this modification for anyone wanting to do it so I won't bore the masses but would have the full story for those interested. Marc

Great idea Marc, I never have liked the color of those shade frames. Why they aren't available in white is just a mystery to me. I hope the paint holds up for you. Looks like you also painted the channel bars which you use to raise and lower the shades? Kind of tricky there but a careful masking job should do it. Was the Krylon Supermax too hot for the plastic or what was the issue there? It looks so much better, I may have to paint mine now. Thanks. Dave

Marc's windows flipped