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Oliver owners have posted a variety of theft prevention locks, chains, coupler locks, etc. While a determined and well equipped thief can defeat almost any theft prevention device, it is worth remembering - The vast majority of places we camp/park our Oliver's are usually not high theft areas. It is jut not a target rich environment - especially if your out boondocking. I use a lock and coupler covering device that would be hard to overcome - but not impossible - heck just unbolt the coupler off the frame. Run a HD hardened chain through the wheels, works but still - defeatable. I'm one that doesn't worry about it much. Casual theft - may be a larger risk - breaking into the RV, stealing chairs, grills, etc, is perhaps something that happens more frequently, but I've not experienced it in 40+ years. Oliver's are very rare - a stolen one would be rather simple to find I would think. A few all points bulletins posted here and on the FB place would have a good response I would think. RB

The “older” trailers did use the Blue Sky solar controller. While probably not the best by today’s standards, the Blue Sky is an MPPT type unit. I ordered my trailer without the solar option because I didn’t know enough about solar at the time and the Zamp equipment was just beginning to be used. In later discussions with ScubaRx I found out that the Blue Sky equipment was probably the best at the time so he and I installed that brand. It is fully and easily programmed for any battery chemistry. Fast forward, last summer I installed three Battle Born batteries and did some wiring changes as well. The Blue Sky controller brings the batteries to 100% each day and the lithium speced shore power charger brings them to 100% very quickly. Also as a side, I plugged the battery box door vents and insulated the door with 1/2 inch thick closed cell neoprene foam. So far camping in freezing weather, the battery box has stayed comfortably warm without battery heaters.

Hi Fritz, Yes, a large enough wire and the other components is all that is needed. The charging system we recommend in the diagram has been used successfully by us for nearly 2 decades in every kind of tow vehicle. The DC converter you linked to only supplies 12 Amps maximum. That will take a very long time to charge the batteries. I view DC converters like this: you have 100 feet of 1/2" garden hose. You only get a trickle of water out of the end. You want more water (power) so you buy a high pressure pump (DC converter) to try and boost the water volume (current), stressing the hose in the process. Why not just use a larger hose (wire)? Someone was asking about the E-Torque system. It has a 3 kW 48~12 DC converter. This is used to recharge the chassis battery and provide for all 12 Volt vehicle loads. There should be ample power for charging the house battery. I recommend consulting with the manufacturer as to where to tie in to the 12 volt system for auxiliary battery charging. I know there was much discussing in this thread. Let me know if there is a specific question and I'll try to help. Happy Trails! Alternator Charge Circuit.pdf

One gas station trick, when the lanes face the building, is to drive around and pull through facing out. That way you can get a sense if the trailer can make the turn before you’ve committed yourself, and you’ll be less likely to get pinned in later by other traffic. Just be sure when you pick a pump that you can pull through to the farthest one so that you don’t leave your trailer in the traffic lane.

The clear coating I used is a spray. The name of the product is "Silicone Modified Conformal Coating" made by MG Chemicals.

That's why almost every post I make has an edited tag. ☺️ Like this ⬇️

I always use a relatively inexpensive lock on the bulldog hitch in order to "prevent" someone from casually lifting the lever which closes the hitch around the ball. I had this happen once some twenty years ago while parked in a motel lot and I almost didn't see it before leaving. BoB makes good points above, particularly regarding prevention while traveling. While in storage I use two hitch locks plus a "boot". There are some owners that use devices that can track the Oliver. Good luck. Bill

Agree. I prefer a manual model. Seems like that should at least be an option.

I always recommend that a towing virgin with zero experience simply rent a small U Haul open trailer for a long weekend and just drive all over, and on Sunday morning practice backing and tight turns in an empty shopping center parking lot. Get a skilled friend to teach you a few tricks like S turns while reversing. You will feel a whole lot less scared on delivery day and can focus instead on orientation and enjoying your new Ollie. Some of those twisty secondary highways around Hohenwald are more than a little intimidating... https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/5x8-Utility-Trailer-Rental/AO/ The base rate around here is just $19 per day. John Davies Spokane WA

Oliver should consider the option of providing the mounts and letting the owner install whatever awning they want on their own.

After driving 2,500+ miles from Oregon, we are in Linden tonight . . . . picking up #699 - "Pearl" in the morning. Stay tuned for photos!

BackofBeyond said it best. It is difficult to justify spending too much on a lock when the hitch can simply be removed. Insurance is the best form of protection. If you are looking for something better than the average lock, this is the best I've seen for bulldog style couplers: https://www.provenlocks.com/products/model-2178-b https://besttrailerlocks.com/ appears to sell blemished versions of the above lock but I can't vouch for the company

@LiFeBlueBattery I don't know if this tag helps, but last time I used it Larry saw it and responded pretty quickly.

Thanks! Just went back and corrected my misspelling of composting (composite) from a couple of days ago. That was just too embarrassing.

Wish this software had a grammar checker. I am too quick to hit the enter key. Audrey

I use this bulldog hitch with a disk lock when we’re hooked up and when we’re not. I use this in addition to the above when we’re not hooked up. It was a door prize at a past Oliver rally. Seems to work okay. They are all just deterents!

SeaDawg saw it yesterday and loved it. Their attitude of stop and smell the roses is spot on. We are like Katie and Steve, I like planning apps but my husband, Vincent, like Steve enjoys following the data found on the touch screen display. He constantly monitors energy usage, battery level, charging rate ( smiles if it hits 150kw ) and so on. As mentioned earlier, the Model X would have a difficult time towing up some mountains if it does not have a great battery range. (Depending on the distance and battery level, an X could beat an ice truck). Unfortunately there are not many chargers in some elevated and or isolated areas. Everyday Tesla is adding chargers all over the world. In the mean time, we ordered a Tesla Tri Motor Cyber Truck . We want the large battery not only for towing but to have plenty left for the outlets on the the truck. We will not need additional collectors with all that energy. Heard there may be a slight delay but we expected that to be the situation. Just like many EV owners or future owners, we enjoy traveling in our vehicles taking breaks to charge and enjoy the scenery. While charging there is a multitude of games, podcasts, news channels, music, Internet and Google Map to explore. However, If people in a hurry to get to their destination or live in an area that is very isolated than an EV is not for them. Luckily, for us we have the time. So glad you order a cyber truck too. Can't wait!

Insurance is your best protection. If they want it they will take it. Sorry to be so blunt. All those gadgets are theft deterrent not theft prevention.

That's our closest state park so we camp there several times a year. I also go there a lot to hike the trails and kayak. It's a nice park. Dinosaur Valley SP in Glen Rose is also a good park for hiking and playing in the river when you're back up this way. Cindy

I went for the Lithium package, but I was fully aware of the limitations, so I'd still recommend it for folks if they can live with the limitations. The DC to DC charger has nothing to do with Lithiums specifically - it's the best way to charge any type of battery from a TV to a travel trailer due to the distance the batteries are from the generator. So I'm ok with no charging from the TV charge wire - it wouldn't charge any batteries to 100% unless you drove 5 days non-stop. Since there's an upgraded 3000W inverter, the 30 Amp Zamp controller is definitely the weak link in the system, and my thought process was it's not a super expensive component and it should be pretty straight forward to swap out when the time comes. I was planning on using some of my tax credit to upgrade to a MPPT solar charger next year if they are truly more capable in smaller solar systems.

I don't know what the liability issue would be. The problem with tow vehicles charging lithiums exists with lead acid also, just most people don't realize it. The issue with power from the trailer flowing back to the tow vehicle seems to only exist with certain tow vehicles and isn't exclusive to lithiums. Nothing is going to get hurt either way from the small amount of power that's flowing - Oliver should just tell people not to expect much charge from their tow vehicle due to the wiring and leave it at that. If people want to modify their vehicles and trailers for a better charge, then that's up to them to do the research and do it right. A liability issue might be pointing owners to a specific solution, if it turns out that solution was incorrect.

😂

Yes it is great advice. When pulling into gas stations always check out your exit route before committing to a pump. If you can position yourself so you do all or most of your turning before fueling you’ll have less chance of being boxed in. Also check out traffic flow and if your trailer will be blocking any of it as you fuel up. Mike

I've got an open ticket with Dometic technical support on this - specifically asking if it can be set up to run the fan on the furnace in heat mode and the fan on the A/C in cool mode when not in auto. Dometic have asked for a picture of my thermostat, so I'll update this thread if I learn anything.

The Max fan has a “ceiling fan” setting.. where the fan runs with the lid shut.. I’m not sure about how much air it really moves around but it may push warm air down to some degree. We’ve got a battery operated fan that does move air around pretty well, it think the brand is O2. If I was trying to heat the areas under the beds or seats, I’d try to get an outlet under them. Maybe connect to the outlet by the dinette for the port side, and the exterior outlet for starboard. Then you could isolate those areas and manage the heat independently from the cabin, using lightbulbs, heating pads or whatever with a fan if needed to circulate the air into tough to get places.

Good to know for LIthium package owners: I couldn't find my charge wire connections or the relay, so I decided to put my fuse back in to activate my charge wire and see what happened. Well, I saw nothing at all - no charge, no draw, etc. I opened a ticket and Jason answered that the charge wire is not being connected with the Lithium package. I'm good with that since it's pretty much useless without the upgraded wiring and DC to DC charger that JD is considering.

That is a great bit of advice...

I agree. We use our manual awning a lot. It's easy and simple. I personally would not want a power awning. A choice would be good.

Nice to know the Oliver is under 10' tall to fit under those old train trestles and bridges. Big big bonus...

Starshine, I don't know if you follow allelectricfamily, but they put up a YouTube today comparing drives with a Tesla X and a Ford explorer. Thought you might find it interesting. https://youtu.be/3OnEyVjo7t4

I don’t think it would be too hard to figure out a Fan Only circuit to bypass all the normal controls. You would have to switch it on manually, maybe from a switch mounted near the inlet grill. OTH it is pretty loud and it would be better if you could throttle it down some, at the same time. These systems are indeed lame, they are built for a super low price point. I want a silent, fan free Alde hydronic heating system.... then you could just install an additional little “radiator” wherever you had a cold spot. I checked and they only sell their systems and parts to manufacturers and upfitters 😠 https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-reviews/alde-hydronic-heating-system-test-and-review/ It would be a stellar system in an Ollie because with many low mounted “convectors and high vents, the double hull design would allow a bubble of warm air around the interior walls. I would gladly pay an extra $2000 for such a system.... a 20 pound bottle will last for two weeks (running just “furnace” and hot water) and it sips electricity. John Davies Spokane WA

I agree that it is moisture related; when it is warm in the cabin and colder outside that’s when the condensation forms and drops beads of water down on the circuit board and other electrical parts. When ours failed the first time the lid lift motor kept driving until major damage was done to everything before I could pull the fuse. This time I just coated the replacement circuit board multiple times hopefully to prevent this issue in the future. I also installed a power on/off toggle switch, so if this happens again, the power can be killed very quickly. I just leave the switch in the off position until the MaxxFan is needed. When I have had issues in the past the remote or key board switches would not do anything. I have weep holes all around to drain any pooling water that may form from the condensation. It would be nice to have some way to prevent the condensation from forming in the first place.

A lot of great information is already posted here. I am a relatively inexperienced and I probably worry too much about planning the route... I recommend; Know the range of your TV while towing. Choose a few fuel options before you start the trip (use google maps to preview as others have stated). Keep in mind that you may need to make adjustments for the amount of climbing and/or wind. Don't overdue it. At first you may find that towing is stressful and it is better to have shorter drive days, if possible. You might consider stopping at a few rest stops along the way to help prevent fatigue if you are feeling a bit stressed.

Two things we have found: In backing up; Put one hand on the bottom of the wheel. Which ever way you want to trailer to go, is the way you move your hand. It becomes second nature eventually, after you figure out mirrors. Carry plenty of referral cards. People have followed me for over 20 miles wanting to see what kind of trailer it was. After gassing up, I had to pull to the side of the lot. There was that long a line of people wanting to take a peek!

As far as gas stations, I really recommend Costco and Sam's, if you have the memberships. The lanes are clearly marked, one way in and out, and kind of a cattle chute entry, but easy and wide exits, for the most part. Not to mention good prices. No diesel, though.

I certainly agree with everything above. I would reiterate what I believe is the most important point made: the width of the OTT is narrower or near the same width as your truck. This makes towing much less stressful than most other trailers. As far as traveling down rural roads or even in traffic, I constantly remind myself that 40ft school busses use the same road and they don’t bend in the middle! For what it’s worth, I took mine through a Hardee’s drive through line the other day. I ordered, then pulled into the parking lot so I didn’t go under the canopy for the delivery window. It was an open parking lot with painted lanes so it was easy to do. But, as mentioned above, we looked on Google maps beforehand and saw there was a huge mall lot so we knew before we got there we had options!

Mcb, I know you are visiting Florida and being a native I can tell you from experience, we sometimes run the heat in the morning and the A/C in the afternoon, so it seems like you’ve figured out the solution.😅😅 My thermostat has the words "heat strip" after "furnace" in the bottom left corner that I see when running through the mode selector. Mossey

Brendan - I'm sure that you are going to get a fair amount of comments/answers to your questions and many of the answers that are applicable to you depend on where and when you will want to tow. However, to get things rolling: The only places that I've encountered difficulty in navigating have been out in the boonies. There are times that forest roads simply get more and more narrow, bumpy or overgrown. Or the terrain becomes more difficult than I want to deal with. However, since the Oliver is the same width as my truck it is "normal" for me that almost anywhere I would want to take my truck - the Oliver will simply follow. Google maps in satellite view is a good tool. However, if that is not available (lack of WiFi or cell signal). As you gain experience you will develop a sense as to when you are getting in a tight spot. You learn to look for ways out or around a situation before you get into them. For instance - when pulling into a gas station it is good practice to chose a gas pump that has more than one exit just in case someone pulls in and blocks you. When exploring unfamiliar places, many people simply un-hitch in an open area and then explore to make sure the road ahead is passable and/or to find a suitable camping area without having to worry about towing the Oliver behind. This approach also makes that job faster. Only once in five years have I had to back out of a spot and that was because someone else blocked the road. Thank goodness I only had to back up a few hundred yards, but, as long as you take it slow backing up is really not that difficult. Routine travel is actually relaxing for me once I get into the rhythm of the road - learn to slow down! I put tunes or an audio book in the player, sit back and enjoy the ride in the slow lane. Since the Oliver is under 10 feet tall I've never had a problem pulling into a gas station. However, note the answer above - always look for more than one way out. Most "small towns" are no problem and I can always find a place to park - either on the street or in a lot. Again, the Oliver is the same width as the truck, therefore it is only the length I have to be concerned with. Obviously, there are places in some town that you are not allowed to tow and/or you really don't want to tow. Really narrow streets, congested traffic, etc. are to be avoided even without the Oliver AND, certainly know the height of that parking garage BEFORE you even think about entering. I have never "bottomed out" my Oliver. Particularly out West where and other places where the roads have a deep crown to the road or deep gutter it is best to approach these areas at an angle - not straight on - and take it slow. This might mean that you have to wait for traffic to clear before entering/exiting but so be it - what's the hurry? Even after RV towing now for over thirty years and boat towing for something like sixty years I still get a touch "keyed up" for the first ten miles or so. Making sure that I can see behind me, is the unit I'm towing following properly, are the brakes working as they should, is everything attached properly, etc. But after I've convinced myself that all is well the entire process is no big deal. Get a good checklist and follow it - always. If you have a friend that tows, ask them to show you the ropes. Get yourself in a large open space (parking lot) and practice turning, backing up and parking. Remember that your stopping distance and acceleration will be slowed, therefore, allow more room for everything. Slow down, relax, enjoy the world and have fun. We were all where you are at with no "special" skills and have learned to tow safely. Bill

So, back to sealant testing. I found a few articles on various forums, and more importantly, testing by Practical Sailor, on a (relatively) inexpensive adhesive sealant, Loctite pl Marine fast cure. We had to order it, from our local Lowe's. Not on the shelf. It has a 12 month shelf life from date of manufacture, unopened, so important to read the date code. Opened, a few months, maybe, if sealed and refrigerated. I'll let you know. It's double sealed, in the workshop fridge, now. Like 3m 4000 uv , it's polyether, not silicone. Cleanup is alcohol, uncured, or mechanical, cured. We'll see how it works out. It's supposed to be non yellowing, and we used it next to butyl with a bead around the new maxxair bath vent, among other places. If it does yellow, we should see it earlier, on the roof, is my guess. I think it's a good place for a test, as appearances aren't much of a concern. Workability was ok, according to Paul. No worse than 3m 4000 uv. https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/mildew-resistant-caulks-for-boats https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/marine-sealant-adhesion-tests I can't recommend at this point, but we'll see what it looks like in a year or two

I suspect the Ram does not have a disconnect relay for the 12v battery line to the 7-way connector. As a result, the parasitic loads in the truck are also pulling current from the trailer connection. The trucks 12V systems battery is isolated from the 48V e-torque starter battery by a converter so this issue will be there whether e-torque equipped or not. You could add a Schottky diode isolator to the charge line in the trailer, but the expense may be hard to justify when just remembering to disconnect costs nothing.

RB, I’ve never heard of them. I changed out mine about two months ago and made several wiring changes in the process. I went with three Battle Born 100 AH batteries. I’ve been very happy with this setup so far.

Susan, Yes, Happy with the aluminum diamond plate material, no corrosion. Had the option to go with black powder coated finish from Diamondback, but wanted the bed cover to blend with chrome parts on the Tundra and aluminum wheels on Ollie. Thinking about installing aluminum wheels on the Tundra, too.

We needed a solution for both secure storage and carrying capacity and decided on the Diamondback HD tonneau cover. It’s about as secure as it gets, has front and rear access panels, and carries 1600 lbs (Side x Side, motorcycle, etc). Extensions and loading ramps were part of the package. The setup is simple, and removes/installs easily.

If you are worried about someone stealing your batteries you could padlock the sliding rack that they are mounted on. Unless you plan on storing it in a publicly accessible storage with no security I wouldn’t be too concerned. Most folks don’t even know where the batteries are stored on the Oliver or that they have more than the normal 1 or 2. Mike