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As of a few minutes ago, we now have 5,000 members! Thanks to all of you who join and participate. Especially those of you who are so helpful in answering questions from new members. We appreciate all of you.

I had the same tires you have on my Elite I. I followed advice on this forum from experienced owners, kept them at 55psi. As expected, the trailer rode much softer, good wear, no fallen window shades, no parts rattling loose. I checked the temps at every stop, never got above warm. I’m just guessing, but this is just one of those issues that many OTT owners seem to disagree with Oliver. When I get my new Elite II in a few months, I’m going to air the tires down to 55 before or shortly after I leave the lot.

Don't forget that all States have basically the same expenses for social programs and infrastructure. If they don't get it from you one way, they are sure to get it from you another. Or, they will not be able to provide these services that society expects from governments. 😬

And for people who like books instead of PDF's and soft books, Will also has a book about Solar Power that is a great resource and it is available on Amazon. And like SeaDawg, his forum is another resource I use regularly. These are links to his forum and website for additional solar information. https://diysolarforum.com/members/will-prowse.1/ https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/ Mossey

The word on the street is that the 2022 models will come with 5200 pound axles (de-rated to 3500 pounds due to the smaller 4 leaf spring pack.) Disc brakes will either be standard or an option (I'm unclear.) They will have 6 bolt patterns and 12 inch brakes. They will also have never-lube hubs.

I think it's great, I tried to get one of our single daughters to go find him.

First - I'm so sorry for your predicament. It's frustrating at best, and at worst can cause you a loss of confidence in your trailer...and perhaps a loss of frozen foods. Neither are good. Now as to the troubleshooting flow I see in your manual it shows this diagram: Hopefully pushing the button for source selection works, and it let's you manually select DC or Gas. Until you "AC Power" issue is solved, at least you can keep your food cold on Gas or DC. FYI - If we are hooked up to AC we use AC for the fridge, other wise we use GAS as our first choice (as others stated, Norcold's actually cool better on GAS than on DC.) Also, for these Norcold units, they suck a lot of DC current (like 5-7 amps) so they run down your batteries pretty quickly. Running on GAS is the most effective way if you don't have AC or if the AC circuits have an issue. As far as the troubleshooting workflow I think the idea is if it seems to give an ERROR 10 , and is looking for AC power...the troubleshooting tree might look like this. First start at the power pedestal, making sure you have power to the trailer. Then inside the trailer if you have power, check for power to the wall plug where the fridge is plugged in. That comes through the circuit breaker panels (black box). Then if the power is ok, it may be the fridge came unplugged....not likely but it has happened before in other cases. After that if you have power to the fridge and it's still saying Err10 it may be a board fault with the Norcold unit. I'm so sorry for your issues at the start...but once you get beyond those I'm sure you'll be doing joyful dances...more often. Galway Girl's Owners - Hull 505

Oliver made the first night's reservation, but we wanted more nights and called the park directly and added two nights. This worked out great for us too. It gave us an entire day to do testing of all systems. David

I echo what SeaDawg says and add a thanks to those that help the Moderators by reporting Spam and other issues with our Forum. This really does make our jobs easier. Bill

Absolutely true. Having moved around and living in different states more than several times in my former career nothing is free. You certainly end up paying somewhere along the line. Sadly with some businesses shuttering do to the pandemic a gap in tax revenue for towns, cities and eventually states is more than likely. It will be interesting to see how this all works out.

Absolutely! I take tons of photos on our trips and always post them on my personal FB page so I will share a few here and there! Also a great idea for two sets of Texans to meet up in Tennessee for a refreshing beverage and to compare notes on the Oliver. It’s getting real now! Cindy

Easier to retrofit the whole axle assembly. Make a new subframe, bolt on two axles, add a converter and done.

Ok - you guys just kill me - never satisfied - I like it. But if your gonna change to a new braking system - seems a regenerative - lets charge the batteries every time I slow - system. I'm sure some one is thinking about this as I type - Yeah - pull the brake/motors off this wrecked Tesla - they will fit just so, install a discombobulater recombiner thingie - and presto - My home built LI system is fully charged every time I come down the other side of the mountain..... RB

In Florida, we have no annual property tax. We pay a one-time sales tax, in my county it’s 7% total. Annual tag and registration fee is < $50. I don't know if you can license your Oliver here if you are not a resident. They validate my drivers license when I register a vehicle.

Yes, you should say hi! As you travel around you will meet others and begin to build a network of fellow owners. I’ve texted and called fellow owners more than a few times for help and advice! Assuming you are somewhere in Texas? We’re near Texarkana and will be close to Houston next week. Mike

I am up at oh dark thirty and humidity in cabin is 76%, so running main fan and bathroom fan and plugin dehumidifier. Meanwhile, interesting news: walked the loop here at campground (dog) at 3:30 AM admiring all the various RVs. Look up in the dark and did a double and triple take. 18 spaces down from me, someone in an Elite II. I am going to take a chance and leave a post-it on their site, as visibly and securely placed as possible, before I leave early this AM to tow into town on impt business, with my first name and cell (which is not working well for incoming calls - keeps going to vm) for texting me, in the hope that this/these fellow Ollie owner/s is/are staying here even just tonight. If nothing else we should say hi, right? I have no idea what year this Elite II is. But it certainly stands out in a row of primarily motorhomes and a couple of trailers. I said to myself as I walked up on it in the dark, “It has to be a mirage. What are the odds?”

And, everyone who wants to, watches him for free. I don't begrudge him his revenue. At one time, he lived on his van, pretty much homeless. He's done the work, and if he makes money from ads, I'm certainly ok with that.

I just think these things should not happen on a new trailer. Known issues should be fixed.

As others have already stated, the most likely cause is that the refrigerator has come unplugged and needs to be plugged back in. It happened twice on our Elite I during the first few months of ownership and at first I was baffled by the 10 error code. I was able to come across a post someone had submitted awhile back that described the location of the plug. Once plugged back in it works as designed. Jason recommended we use a zip-tie to secure once we had it plugged back in. We have not had another problem with the refrigerator since. As for your outside door cable breaking loose, you can see my previous post "First few months of ownership" where we had the same thing happen to us. We used gorilla two part epoxy per Jason's recommendation to reattach and have not had another problem.

FYI, for anybody who is new to these weird fridges. On DC power, the heating element for the cooling coils is on all the time (I think, this not confirmed), and it draws 15 amps at 12 volts. That is a huge drain over a day, especially if you do not have solar and lots of sun for it to work as intended. 15 amps will essentially flatten, and possibly damage, a 100 amp hour battery in about seven hours. So, be really aware of this heavy load and do not use the DC option unless you know the battery bank is getting replenished soon. The small amount of current coming from your tow vehicle is not nearly adequate! I am one of those who travels with it on Gas, and have never had a problem, but I am very aware of wind direction when refueling the truck, since there may be an open flame twenty feet away. Though the flame does cycle on and off.... Little House Customs makes a neat little clear cover for fridges, to preventt the DC button from accidentally getting pressed.I highly recommend it, and it takes maybe five minutes to install. John Davies Spokane WA

As someone who will be taking delivery of a Legacy Elite 2 in September 2021, I was concerned about the breakaway cable being too short in some situations. I have essentially the same TV as SherMica, so I emailed Phil Andrews to ask what Oliver could do to remedy the problem. He replied that "The length of the breakaway is regulated by RVIA. On most tow vehicles this is not an issue. For the rare occasion that it is, the breakaway is connected to the truck with a D-link or carabiner type fastener." I'm planning on bringing an aftermarket coiled breakaway cable on delivery day, just in case I encounter the same issue. I am so impressed with all the support you all have given SherMica, and have found the Forum such a source of knowledge while I am (trying to be) patiently waiting for my Ollie to hatch.

The issues: 1. We wanted to flip the shade frames to allow more privacy when needed. With the “night” shades on the bottom--instead of the top--one can raise them up so that one can still view the outside world without having to consider that someone outside, would get a nice view of one’s midsection as one walks about the cabin. 2. We wanted to increase the “grip” of the shades so that they would better stay in place. Sometimes our blinds would slide down after being pulled in place. Since we figured that the “night” blinds are heavier than the “day” blinds, we thought this extra grip was even more important if we were going to reverse them. 3. We wanted to better secure the shade frames to the interior wall. Our frames have frequently come loose from the clips that are meant to hold them in place, actually falling off a couple of times. We tackled the second issue first. Someone on this forum or one of the Oliver Facebook pages suggested retying the strings to the springs on the top and bottom of the frames to increase the tension. (If you pull the frames off of the clips holding them to the wall, you will see those springs and the strings.) This proved very frustrating. (I think you will agree if you attempt this task; you might also appreciate the nimbleness of the worker who accomplished the initial tie job.) I thought there must be another way to increase the tension. There seemed to be enough space on the corner of the frame to insert an object that would stretch the strings around the corner and thus increase the tension. I came up with placing those do-hickies that are used to secure screws in drywall on all four corners of the frame. This seemed to increase the tension just about the right amount. (One nice thing about those do-hickies is that they have little grooves into which the strings can sit.) Next, we tackled the third issue. After looking at the clips and how they fit into the groove in the frame, it seemed to me that spreading them out wider might make them hold better. So I unscrewed them from the wall and went at them with a couple of vise grips, pulling the sides of the clips out just a little bit. (The clips are surprisingly strong.) With a little effort, I was able to smack the frame back into place with the palm of my hand, upside down from the way they were originally placed at the Oliver factory. (One should be careful to make sure that the lips of the clips are centered in the groove before applying much pressure so as not to damage the plastic of the frames.) I hope the photos I upload here help portray the process. I have just completed this project on the window over the dinette. The frame is flipped, it seems more securely attached to the wall, and the “grip” of the “day” and “night” shades is stronger. I plan to do the other four frames soon. I apologize for my Cro-Magnon approach to the project. Unlike some folks on this forum, who are retired engineers, mechanics, and the like, I am a relatively unhandy retired academic and musician. But I thought that I would post this in case another Ollie owner wanted to tackle a similar project, perhaps having dealt with similar issues.

Hello, We are Dan and Theresa from Colorado. Yesterday we brought home our new 2020 Elite II as second owners. (Hull #627). After a couple decades of camping with pop-up tent trailers, we have moved up...way up! We first learned of Oliver just a few months ago as we started researching travel trailers and finding that we were dissapointed with the quality of pretty much everything we saw. I started reading through the forums several weeks ago as we were considering this purchase. There seems to be so much great information shared and a sense of family. I'm sure I will have questions as I get some experience and start to ready the trailer for a trip and would sure appreciate the wisdom of this group! The weight and size of the Oliver meant we needed to upgrade our tow vehicle as well. So --- we pulled the Ollie home with our brand new Silverado 1500 I6 Duramax and it was fantastic. We are a little (Ha ha) lighter in the wallet now but excited for upcoming adventures as recent "empty nesters." Already have reservations at Great Sand Dunes NP in Spring, Rocky Mountain NP in June and Mount Rusmore/Custer SP in Fall. Looking to add more in-between. Again, appreciate all the great info shared here! Dan & Theresa 2020 Oliver Elite II, Hull 627, 2021 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 3.0L I6 Duramax

John is your TV a GL450 Mercedes Benz?

Fredmin, Apologize for drifting away from the thread topic. Some states ask a little extra for services, too. 😬 Been looking at TN, TX, or FL for relocation for a while. Found an area in TN to look at first, next FL, then TX.

And that is why - TN is such a bargain - one less income reduction drag, my stuff is mine - without state rental fee, etc... Regardless of expenses - (I will not argue with your assertion here - maybe over an adult bev one evening) ) TN somehow seems to keep within the income - expense equation. TN's don't expect as much - per capita - as some.... Not to dip into investment income theory - as long as I keep my income low - the feds get little to fuel your concerns - wealth creation is not always taxable - upfront..... And with the recent fed give backs - I may come out within earshot of even this year ....🤑🤑🤑 And My Oliver is still a great RV - Don't tell any one in the Fed - it may become something of note....

TN - you pay sales tax up front - tags are about $30 year. No Income tax , no personal tax, very low property tax. Sales tax - 8-10% depending on location. Hard to beat. RB

Really like states without state income tax and no annual personal property taxes! 👍

We keep Ollie in an airplane hangar in another North Carolina county that has lower tax rates compared to the NC county of our residence. Had to give NC DMV the airport address for where taxes are paid on Ollie, but they still mail the annual registration document to our home address for paying annual NC license registration and tax fees.

The property tax in each county is different. You may want to check with the county you reside in.

Thank you Ray and Susan.

@ JD: We think alike. I carry the Ruger SP-101 for hiking, but modified it to have larger grips. For larger targets is the Winchester Defender (Pump) 12 GA Magnum. If needed, I have an Utah permit as well. That said, this is a bit off topic.....

We went most of a season in our camper van with the onboard LP tank. Running fridge always on propane, stove top and only a few mornings of running the furnace. The only way you can go through a lot of propane is if you run the furnace all night; we haven't (yet) done a lot of very cold weather camping, so furnace use is not a factor.

I believe what you have in the picture is a outlet tester. neutral ground plug. I bought my Oliver from a previous owner but I thought he told me Oliver supplied the neutral ground plug. Maybe you can ask Oliver if that is true. You asked if the Honda was noticeable quieter then the Yamaha. It is.

I agree. But, we don't even know if that's your issue. Yet. You do know that your warranty covers you, wherever you are, right?

I bought one of these for my trailer toolkit on Amazon. I know it's quite a bit more than the small 15/20 amp testers I also own, but I consider it a convenience for the 30A checks. They come in 30A or 50A, and you can also buy a version that is just a small inline surge suppressor (see second pix) . Or you can by both the Tester an Supressor in kits...

As others have already stated, the most likely cause is that the refrigerator has come unplugged and needs to be plugged back in. It happened twice on our Elite I during the first few months of ownership and at first I was baffled by the 10 error code. I was able to come across a post someone had submitted awhile back that described the location of the plug. Once plugged back in it works as designed. Jason recommended we use a zip-tie to secure once we had it plugged back in. We have not had another problem with the refrigerator since.

@ScubaRx’s post on his disk brake swap I also have disk brakes, but Steve’s post is more relevant and his choice of components is better IMO than what Oliver used on mine. I’m sure that he’d be willing to give you more info if you send him a pm. fwiw, my pump is located below the propane tanks mostly within the space of the frame. It has a bash plate protecting it and has so far gone unharmed. I’d recommend taking a look at the Centerpoint suspension while you’re at it. It’s an easy mod on its own but especially so if you’ve already got everything off.

Frankly, I've only seen a few posts about the cord becoming unplugged. If you're uncomfortable with it, take your trailer to an rv repair shop, and let them look at it. You can run on propane til you get an appointment. You are under warranty. Or, when you get some sleep, and get your head cleared, see if there us a mobile service for norcold. I still suspect your problem is a) left the fridge on ac when you disconnected, or b) your board isn't recognizing 110, on auto, Which is odd, since your fridge worked fine on 110 at davy Crockett, but, who knows? Your fridge works on dc, and propane, so not the immediate emergency. Get your business appointments done, read your manuals, and get some help when you are in the right frame of mind. Good luck.

You could try teaching in and taking photos with your phone.

Our one experience with an incorrectly wired 30amp pedestal was after we experienced a low voltage issue on a very hot weekend last summer. We noticed the private campground had many seasonal sites and sure enough on the W/E everyone arrived. This coincided with our low voltage issue which impacted our A/C. We made it through the night and I called the campground the next day to report the low voltage. There were a few empty sites near us and after I tried to see if your 30amp extension cord would reach, I inquired about whether he had any heavy duty extension cords as opposed to moving the trailer. Good thing too, because after I connected his power cables, which were quite handy for him and very substantial and confirming my suspicion that he was aware of the issues, I now had a reversed source and neutral wire which caused an error message on the EMS. I subsequently tested the pedestal to confirm the incorrect wiring, reported it to him, and we lived with the low voltage issue. David

And here he discusses with the head of Battle Born a whole, bunch of issues that any lithium buyer should at least be exposed to, even if he doesn’t understand everything. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ywn-vBjKblI John Davies Spokane WA

He's good, and I've given thought again to building a battery or two, or six, after watching many of his videos. He also has a video tour of the Battleborn factory, which shows a bit more of the battery insides.

I think that shield is specifically for the Dometic rm2454? I don't believe Oliver installs that fridge anymore. Perhaps he's devised one for the new Norcold models now in use?

We also had an error message on our Norcold fridge I can not remember the code. I think it was "E" We normally drive with the fridge on dc as we don't drive with the propane on. We were in southern Florida. When we arrived at our campground in the Keys we realized the fridge was out. We have medication that must be refrigerated so this is important for us. We read the manuals tried all of the reset bottoms. Tried unplugging and plugging the fridge. Nothing seemed to help. It would not work or allow us to switch to propane. Oliver was moving their service dept that day so getting help was difficult. One of the workers at the campground was a retired mechanic. He helped us a bit at his suggestion he disconnected the battery bank. Then we reconnected. This allowed us to work the fridge on propane. We lost a bunch of food but the campground allowed us to place the medication in their fridge. We were able to coordinate a technician to come look at the fridge. The campground was very strict and strict on who the would let in for repairs and wouldn't let the first technician on site. Poor reputation and taking folks money and never returning or fixing the problem. The strickness probably saved us time money and frustration. The 2nd technician came the next day. He was terrific. He got the fridge working he really could not give us a great answer about what went wrong. He did say sometimes the mother boards could be better. We didn't have another problem for the rest of our trip. RV techs are hard to find in the Keys. However these norcold fridges are also heavily used in the marine industry!! Our tech was terrific but admitted 99% of his work was on boats.. We had to do some work and place a lot of phone calls etc. This did work out. The invoice for service was handled by Oliver. I was also having issue with one of my rear stabilizer jacks but this was just a fuse. As a newbie it is easy (at least for me) to get frustrated and harried especially when I can't reach folks. I am learning to relax a bit more when this happens. Oliver has been very good with support. Folks are generally nice and will help out!!

Sheri, Take some time away from the forum - go read the Owners manual a few times. Perhaps a few of your concerns will be answered. It is especially hard to trouble shoot an issue remotely - Oliver folks on this forum are pretty good at doing so, however. Although Oliver has installed at least two different brands of Refrigerator, all of them are three way powered, and operate in very similar manners. AC power (Shore), DC (battery), or propane. The code you say you have indicates it is looking for AC- and there is none to be had. It must be set on AC power. Could be other issues - start there - but make sure the AC switches in the panel are on, and all fuses are good. Highly unlikely they are the issue. You should have it set on auto - unless - you specifically want it to run off a particular energy source. Verify you have at least one energy source -no AC, have propane on - turn both tanks on. DC - look at the Solar display - (That thingie I showed you on the rear upper wall) does it show at least 12 volts. You should be good to go. Does your manual on the Norcold refer say anything about a reset - if so follow the procedure. Otherwise - do what the manual says to do for each phase of the trouble shooting guide. No guide do the following. Turn it - the refer off, let it sit a min - turn it back on, set to auto. You may need to hold the button down for a few seconds - If not working, try setting to propane, no work, try DC. I would not bet money this is Oliver's fault. I have made a few misjudgment's on my own unit - and after study found I was just not doing something correct. As for what RV to purchase - I am not on the payroll - don't care what you buy. The Escape folks - well they are fine people - I'm told. Oliver RV - you decide. Most all here have done so at least once. Good luck We are all pulling for you. RB

I believe the person to talk to for additional nights is Donna at (931-762-9408).

Here is what we are considering. Waiting to see if it actually works. It’s a Thule.

I don't have the exact setup you are talking about, but I do have one side set up as a bed and the other set up as a couch. When my wife is with me we simply take those extra cushions off the couch and place them in the dinette area and/or directly under the "lip" that hangs out into the isle from the bed itself. We don't have that acess door you mention but I think that it would be a tight squeeze for those cushions anyway. Bill

I have to smile at this. I always turn mine on when towing, even in sunlight. I think it adds extra visibility for other drivers - it might jar a texting one awake - and I think it looks very cool. The little diamond eye marker lights are so bright, they are like little suns. I have had people flash me, that just proves that it works. In heavy “nightmare” traffic I turn on the headlights and the fog lights. I once had a Mazda 6 Sport Wagon that was a beautiful beige/ green metallic color, with no daytime running lights. It got hit hard twice in parking lots, and there were ALWAYS people pulling out in front of me because the car was so hard to spot. I didn’t want to drive with the lights on so I added bright always-on LED strip lights above the front spolier. That stopped the “people pulling out” problem. It didn’t help with parking lots, so I just parked as far away as I could from the store front. But it taught me the benefits of driving with lights on in daylight..... Am I alone in doing this? John Davies Spokane WA