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With the help of a number of good folks on this forum and my great RV Tech, Mathew Gonzales, who has worked on my 2017 Elite II since I brought in home to SE AZ, I finally achieved my goal of being able to run my AC off of my 2000-watt inverter and my new battery bank: 4 100ah Battle Born lithium batteries. After asking for, and getting, advice from folks on the forum about a number of issues that Mat and I ran encountered when attempting this upgrade, I made these decisions and Mat did this work: I first made the decision to purchase the Houghton 9.5K Low Profile Air Conditioner from RecPro--due mainly to how much quieter it runs compared to the Dometic Penguin that came with my Ollie, and to its lower amp draw (10 vs. the 16 for the Dometic). I learned that the Houghton could be run off of the 2000-watt inverter that came with my Ollie, using a transfer switch plugged into it running to the AC. I asked Mat to move the Micro-Air soft start previously installed in the Dometic to the Houghton. We discovered that he needed to reprogram the soft start to coordinate with the new AC. Since, unlike the Dometic set-up that came with my 2017 Ollie, the Houghton did not have a way to control the furnace, Mat installed and wired an Emerson non-programable thermostat--once again using information gleaned from folks on this forum--to control the furnace. I figured it was a good idea to supplement the 320-watt solar panels that came with my Ollie with a 180-watt Zamp solar panel kit. I also purchased a Zamp solar port that Mat installed near the shore power input. When my AGM batteries overheated last fall, I found I had no way to easily disconnect the battery bank. (This, I suspect, is something that is an original defect in the electrical system of my Oliver. Is it for all Olivers still?) So, while Mat was doing all of the other work, I had him install a battery disconnect switch near the inverter. I don't want this to appear as a straightforward process. It took a lot of back and forth between Mat and me trying to come up with solutions to problems encountered along the way. This back-and-forth involved a lot of advice from folks on this forum, some of whom I have not thanked by name. I would like to give special mention and thanks, however, to CnC and Minnesota Oli, who spent a good deal of time with me exchanging private messages. Man, were they patient with this technical novice! The outcome is that I now have a much quieter AC that runs off of my solar, batteries, and 2000-watt inverter. One can read elsewhere about the advantages of the Houghton. Mat told me, before I took my camper home, that he ran the Houghton for about four hours, supplementing the roof-top solar with the Zamp portable kit, and the voltage never dropped below 13 volts. I ran it when I brought the camper home, and verified that the system seemed to run the AC flawlessly AND much more quietly than before. I am delighted, as I have been wanting for a long time to be able to boondock in climes needing cooling of the cabin without having to resort to the hassle and noise of a generator. I will follow up with another post if I run into any issues. Disclaimer: I still have very little technical understanding about how this system functions and how the components and wiring fit together, so I will not be the one to answer many, if any, technical questions, but I know that on this forum, if you ask, you receive. There are some good posts on this forum involving the Houghton AC and related issues, so take a look around, and don't hesitate to submit your questions on this forum. Doing so paid off big time for me! Here is the interior view of my newly installed Houghton 9.5K Low Profile Air Conditioner: Here is an exterior view (birds won't be able to nest in this one!): Here is a photo of how Mat secured and wired the transfer switch and battery disconnect switch: Here is a photo of the Emerson non-programable thermostat to control the furnace (thanks go to John Davies who suggested the purchase): Here is a photo of the Zamp solar port with cord leading to the Zamp 180-watt portable solar panel kit: Here is a photo of the charge controller on my Zamp 180-watt portable solar panel kit, showing the voltage just after I plugged it in. (In less than 10 minutes, this controller and the interior Zamp showed the voltage up to 14.6 before dropping back into the floating voltage range.):

Frankly, I never said that. Your issues have zero to do with the worn Anderson hitch ball, in my opinion, if I can understand your issues, after reading this thread, at least 5 times. What I said, is, the wing mechanism to close the bulldog coupler requires some regular cleaning , lubrication, and maintenance. Like any other coupler, the bulldog requires minor but regular maintenance. The other alternative might be, as I said before, you didn't have the hitch ball truly centered under the bulldog coupler. It's very important. Centering can be done with the truck at various angles, but the ball must be centered under the Bulldog cup. You tend to confuse some basic terms, in reference to hitches, couplers, balls, "shanks" and receivers. It's all ok, but please don't get upset when we ask questions to understand what you're talking about. We know you're new as an Ollie owner. Was it difficult to release the bulldog, at your home, when you backed straight in? (Great backing skills, btw.) I don't really care which system you choose. Get a bulldog coupler. Get something else. You'll pick what you like, anyway, as we know from your comments. Pick what you like, and "get on with life." No psychological inferences. Just a phrase many of us use, time to time. You can easily replace the 2" bulldog with a 2 5/16" bulldog. You've been given at least three sets of directions. Step by step. If you find a better solution, we're all ears. Truly. With the rugged roads you seem to love, an articulating hitch, like some of the Aussie campers might just be your ticket. Idk. Take your time. You may want to research beyond our forum, as well. Google mchitch. Like John E Davies , at this point, I'm out. At least for awhile.

https://www.exploringoverland.com/overland-tech-travel/2021/11/14/a-guide-to-recovery-jacks-for-the-beginner-or-procrastinator scroll to bottom…

I just sold my nuCamp TAB 400 Boondock Lite and will get delivery on an Oliver in September. Davies is correct the Alde heating is very good and I do not look forward to force air. However we plan more colder shoulder season camping and we are giving Oliver a go as it appears better than my TAB 400. If we wish another change we can always go back to nuCamp in a couple years. nuCamp and Oliver are both are such a higher quality overall than so much of the rest of the RV world.

Looks right to me. Thanks again!

I’m still a novice (after daily use for a month), but I’ve found the following gives me consistent results: med-high heat till it begins to perk, perk for 4 min on med heat, remove from heat and let sit for 5 min.* I’ve tried a couple different filters and no filter; I can’t discern a difference with or without filters. Letting sit for 5 min settles most of the grounds. However, because I’d rather not have any grounds in my cup, I pour through a strainer (pictured). *I’ve always used medium ground coffee. I understand a coarser grind may require a little longer perk time.

It wasn't me. I was on the Corvallis to Lebanon overpass at 1430 (2:30PM) which is close to the 30 miles north of Eugene on Monday. We just came back from 4 nights on the coast. Great weather. We are in Sweet Home. Where do you live Fargoman? Someday we should make our own West Coast/ Northwest Rally with all of the Oliver owner out here on the other side of the world.

Don't get too upset at that Tundra's gas mileage - with my 2017 Ford F-150 Ecoboost I get slightly better than that towing but I get around 22 mpg when not towing. Its really not all that bad unless you have a small gas tank. Bill

Welcome and Congrats! I tow with a 2018 Tundra 4x4 longbed. Andersen hitch and firestone airbags filled to 25-30 lbs). Tows great in all conditions (uphill, flat and downhill). Andersen chains are not taught and easy to hook up. Very, very little jouncing underway. If you already have a Tundra you accept the gas mileage. Towing my Elite II I get between 10-12 mpg. Usually around 10.5-11 but I did get just over 12 towing from Phoenix to Tucson last month (must have been a decent tailwind). I also have a Dodge 3500 longbed Cummins with dually delete. Have not towed with it yet but will in the Spring. Likely wont even know it is there.

Welcome aboard! We tow with a Sequoia, and recently picked up hull 997. We had an Anderson installed during delivery can confirm it will have a 2” ball, really complete kit, which was set up for our Sequoia as we went through the delivery orientation. The 5.7 engine and tow package works great with our Elite II.

We are set to leave on March 1 to take delivery on March 4. We will be traveling light leaving behind our bulky espresso maker. As an alternative we will have our stove top Bialetti 6 cup, which will do for the time being. It is not exactly what a counter top espresso quality cup is but it will be good enough.

The nectar of the gods, fresh-brewed in the GSI filter.

As I had said earlier, the Ball is excessively worn and like SeaDawg said may need some... help seating the coupler onto the ball. I mentioned that the previous owner pushed it with his hand, but he kicked it and it set the ball. I used a hard rubber mallet to 'set the ball into the coupler' the first hour I owned the Oliver. I do not want to use the current or new Bulldog 2 inch. As I also said, the ball cone is frozen into the aluminum. I tried, after WD40 and still no luck. I do not have a press and from the looks at the aluminum housing, it has nicks and I filed some of the bottom of the Ball cone to remove an impact, from being dropped. The previous owner had a 40 pound or so Rock Tamer attached to the 2 inch shank... and I do not need to use it. Get on with Life? I thought this was to discuss options and get advice... not psychological help. I like Minnesota Oli's option. I also read that Bulldog said Not to Grease the Ball... and someone said To Grease the Ball.... on the Forum. I am fully aware of working on trailers. I have been greasing my Ball and Equalizer Hitch on three Airstreams. Some use wax paper, some use nothing... I grease. I know how to clean the Coupler mechanism. I do not let my hitches Rust or Corrode. I wipe everything down after use and during use when camped. Monday I will be ordering parts, if possible. I do appreciate help, but my introduction was for a 2 5/16 Ball and Coupler setup. Not a 2 inch, but now I know the larger assembly must exist, from Minnesota Oli. Once done... if anyone is curious as to the effort needed to get this done, ask and I would be more than happy to show photographs on MY PROJECT in progress.

Keep us posted on how it performs! Mike

Perspective, it's all in one's perspective. From the earth's surface, our moon appears not to rotate. But someone viewing the moon from the sun (ouch) would perceive the moon rotating 13.5 times per year, along an elliptical path while circling the earth, as explained in John's video. Those whose entire universe is comprised of two people (a loving match, indeed) are happy with a sample size of two, since it is the whole world. Those who also have a statistical background would prefer a larger sample size. Perspective changes one's reality. You will LOVE your Ollie, when you find it . . . you will use it to rotate all over this land.

I need one for my wife’s new RDX that came without a spare tire. I bought the wheel and tire but need a decent jack, hopefully one that I could also use now and then in the shop. Most of the $30 “1 1/2 ton” jacks are really low quality and they fail spectacularly when the steel buckles or the threads strip. This one isn’t any heavier in weight, but it is rated higher and has some very nice features. https://www.amazon.com/IMAYCC-Effortless-Thickened-Portable-Emergency/dp/B08TBWMZZW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 At least I could return it free if it turns out to be bogus. And no, I do not want to carry a little hydraulic bottle jack, I don’t like those and they can leak. Any suggestions? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Try HERE.

We have a diamondback cover as well. Current plan is to permanently mount 4 - 24 inch long 8020 black anodized sections to the four corners. This will be the foundation for multiple different rack systems which I’ll probably build out of the cheaper non coated 8020. For a solar setup I have 3 100w 20x40inch panels that I’ll connect on the long side making a 60x40 array reinforced with angle aluminum. This array will be suspended from 8020 crossmembers mounted to the above mounts. Hopefully, I’ll have time to put everything together in a few weeks.

Bill: I also lost two of my "Hub Caps". The grease caps should not be coming off. I spoke with the Service/Warranty Department at Dexter about grease caps. They are aware of the wimpy metal of some of their grease caps. They are stamped from sheet metal that is either .021” or .029” thick. The thinner ones have been known to come loose. I have the .021” and two of them fell off after my fourth annual bearing service effort. Recommendation from Jason E. is to replace them with a heaver metal grease cap. I looked at dozens of grease caps, often having to call the manufacturer to get the metal gauge. So if you have experienced this problem, below are two that I would consider using. The BrakeBest is .030" .027", and the NAPA is .032". 16 FEB 2022: JPR UPDATE: Just got a follow-up E-mail from Reiley. They stated that the BrakeBest Select Trailer Parts Trailer Bearing Grease Cap thickness is .027". As such, if you have "loose caps", I would recommend the NAPA version.

Darn it, I hate articles like that, 😉 - I did not even get to the Hummer scissors jack, when I saw the Safe Jack, and that stopped me in my tracks. It is made in Pasco WA just a couple of hours away, so I feel obliged to get a kit. ... https://safejacks.com https://safejacks.com/collections/bottle-jack-accessories/products/safe-jack-bottle-jack-recovery-kit-with-bottle-jack - watch some of the "how to" videos toward the bottom! I think it would be useful for the Ollie too, you could use the saddle adapter and lift one axle by the tube, close to the springs. I was pretty much dead set against hydraulic ones, most are are a pain, they leak, they don't go high enough, you have to block therm. But this changed my mind about that attitude - it is long but very educational and entertaining. Highlift jack vs Bottle jack vs Exhaust jack John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks!

There are already at least two Ollie owners that have completed this mod on their trucks - hopefully they will shortly let you know exactly what they did. Bill

As Mountain Man said re:MPG, I concur. 10-12mpg, depending on terrain. I towed an Airstream Bambi pre-Oliver, +/-3k pounds, 11-12mpg in the same conditions. On the flip side, I see 17-18 combined mpg not towing here in coastal SC.

Welcome, John. As Sherry says there are quite a few Tundra tow vehicles here that are happy with them. Your delivery date will get here before you know it! Mike

Hi, John, and welcome to the forum! There are a number of Tundra owners here, and I'm sure you'll hear from some of them. You've been fortunate to live in some very beautiful states!

Seeing an Oliver in the West is definitely a rare event, but maybe I'm just easily excited. 2008RN, I live in Redding, CA. With my grown kids living in Portland, OR and Vancouver, WA I expect to be taking my Ollie on many camping trips in the Northwest. A Northwest Oliver rally is a great idea.

I've become quite fond of an Aeropress for coffee (https://www.amazon.com/AeroPress-Portable-Travel-Coffee-Press/dp/B07YVL8SF3/ref=asc_df_B07YVL8SF3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366315314542&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2052564283732757323&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029602&hvtargid=pla-851550080547&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=84691874068&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366315314542&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2052564283732757323&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029602&hvtargid=pla-851550080547). For an Oliver mug I fill it up once and let it drip, fill it up again and press. Fast. Super easy cleanup.

My problem with a percolator is also the timing. I guess the more you use it the more exact you become?

We also use the compact camping percolator on the gas stove. I am still trying to get the timing down for good consistency. Haven't spent enough time on the road yet. We also pre-grind the coffee before we leave home. We have several different flavors at home to select from. I do notice a difference between my grind technique and my wife and the outcome of the coffee. About 17 years ago I decided that when the cheap $40 grinder dies I would buy a nice gear grinder. Still waiting for the grinder to die. I want to get the full life out of this grinder.

This is what I love about Oliver forum, topics get summited and people may or may not choose to partake in the discussion but a lot of people take the opportunity to learn or confirm or disagree with what gets discussed with out having to be part of the discussion,I find it to be a great tool.

The way you worded your question, you got a lot of answers. All of them good, from people who have used the equipment they recommended (experience), and no one suggested it was a "must" for everyone. The photo got, including chains, a bit of comments about wdh. The bulldog coupler has been standard equipment on the Oliver, since inception. (It is not part of the Anderson system. Instead, the Anderson is the one wdh currently available that works with the Bulldog and the Oliver configuration. ) Our Bulldog coupler has been bulletproof for 14 seasons. It won't close if not properly aligned, but when it does close, it stays closed. No guesswork. It's made of forged steel, not stamped. It's heavy, and extremely sturdy, and attached to our 2008 LE aluminum tongue with two grade 8 bolts. (You'll know they're grade 8, by the markings, 6 hash marks in a pinwheel.) As John e Davies said, mechanical fasteners are required in this instance. The Bulldog MUST be completely centered over the ball to close properly. As John E Davies said, you may also have had problems because the mechanism was dirty or stiff. We check, clean, and lube ours every year, more often as necessary, with a spray lubricant that doesn't attract and hold a lot of dirt. (Take your pick). We also lightly wire brush and repaint the exterior body, as necessary. We live on a saltwater bay, so probably more often than many. If your coupler disengaged easily when you backed it into the slot, it's likely fine. But still, important to perform normal annual maintenance. Most people who upped to the 2 5/16 coupler from the 2" either had the skills and tools to do it themselves, or they upgraded from day one, at the factory. You could put in a service ticket ( complete with your model and vin) to see if Oliver will sell you one, predrilled, and ship. I don't know if they will, or not. Ask. Otherwise, my suggestion would be, find a reference for a good local welding and machine shop. Most local welding shops can drill the required holes. Order the 2 5/16. Then, get out the wrenches, remove the existing bull dog, take it, along with the new Bulldog to the shop, so they can use the old as a template, to drill the new holes. (You may need some penetrating oil to remove the bolts on the old coupler. Have some patience. ) We could do it, my nephew also, for free. My local shop would probably charge somewhere between $50 and $100. I'd take at least one bolt to the shop, too, just for reference. If you strip one bolt in removal, they'll likely be able to tell you what you need as a replacement, if you don't have measuring equipment. Good luck in your decision. Me? I'd lube and repair the existing 2" bulldog, and get on with life, for the first few trips. (My opinion. ) I'd buy a drop hitch, with a 2.5 inch drawbar, if your Airstream supplied hitch won't work, with a 2" ball, at proper level. I wouldn't use sleeves or spacers, for the drawbar. No way. Too much slop. Nothing beats the camping experience. I'm sure we can agree on that. Good luck in your decisions.

Well, I couldn’t wait, I ordered one, and I’ll post a followup after I look it over and test it. In the meantime, other recommendations would be appreciated. John Davies Spokane WA

The mixed reviews on these scissor jacks on Amazon always keep me from buying one. A lot of good reviews but also some scary failures. I’ve been using a leftover scissor jack that I still have from my old Dodge pickup truck (the truck is long gone). It’s worked really well, very thick metal parts. Might be worth checking scrapyards to find an old factory scissor jack from a full size truck. I’m skeptical of the imported jacks on Amazon.

Well - one might not like the look of those covers (actually I do like the look and don't think that they are "silly" at all) - but - I've had the same issue as Mike a couple of times and these covers have saved the spindle cap from flying off into the bushes and have prevented at least a little bit of "stuff" from getting into the grease on the outside of the spindle. Unfortunately, the little chrome cap in the center of the cover has been lost in each case. A quick call to Oliver Service corrected that issue. Again, like Mike, I simply re-applied the spindle cap and continued on my way, replacing the "damaged" cap when I got home. But, now I always carry a couple of THESE with me - just in case. I also believe that the reason these caps came off in the first place was due to faulty installation when I had my bearings serviced. Bill

There is no such thing as an Andersen coupler. The BULLDOG coupler is very hard forged steel. The Andersen ball is intentionally made from a softer steel; according to Andersen this is so it will wear out, rather than the coupler. I personally see no logic in that. So I think that: Your coupler is not in fact damaged, probably it is very rusty from not having been greased by the previous owner, and that corrosion might be cleaned up enough to be serviceable by using a 2” ball and valve grinding compound. …. OR It is permanently damaged, perhaps poorly forged, and will have to be replaced. Only you or a mechanic can answer this question. I will point out once again, these hitches by their very design wear the ball because the chains thrust forward on the rear surface of the ball. The Bulldog has very little contact area because of the swinging side piece. If you want to reduce future damage, replace the parts with a 2 5/16” pair, so that there is more surface area. I think that this should be standard during production, the cost of the parts is no different. Just abandon the Andersen completely, get a fixed dead weight hitch and stop worrying about it. John Davies Spokane WA

Try starting HERE. Then you might want to go to the Oliver University where there are videos on what to expect at/on Delivery Day. Included in those vids are items that Oliver includes. Let us know if you need something else. Bill

Somewhere I saw a list of things to bring on pick up day. I don't know if OTT has such a list. Someone on the forum had written a list. Anyone know where to find that?

Anderson - WD hitch that works well with the Oliver. Bulldog - Coupler that is currently installed on the trailer. You can upgrade both components to work with 2 5/16. You will end up with a more desirable result if you go with just a ball hitch or use the anderson system you received with the trailer.

I will rephrase my question. I WANT to USE my current Equalizer shank and 2 5/16 inch BALL to tow our Oliver. I will make what shank adjustments necessary to do that. What do I need to purchase to attach TO THE Oliver so I can? Has someone done this? I need to know what to purchase, removing the Anderson 2", and bolt on a 2 5/16 inch receiver ball to the front of the Oliver. So... I do not want to use the Anderson 2 inch coupler. I want to know where to get so the coupler on the Oliver to 2 5/16 inch receiver. I have everything needed for my Airstream and want to use it on the Oliver, but need to remove the 2" system and bolt on a 2 5/16" coupler assembly. Where can I find a source to purchase?

I quit using the Andersen when I upgraded to my Ram 2500 diesel. I had used it with both half tons. I concur with everyone else, no Andersen is needed with your F350. I’ve got probably 20,000 miles towing now without the Andersen and never had even the slightest issue, it’s a very well behaved trailer! Mike

... and no Anderson hitch necessary .... as recommended to me by my Oliver sales team, for my future Chevy HD 2500.

You do not need the Andersen hitch with an LE2, a simple fixed drop ball mount is fine with an F350! Whatever it takes to get level, the Ollie coupler is just under 24 inches. A mount and ball will be less than $100. Rather than spending a ton of money, I would go that route, and also consider converting the Ollie coupler to 2 5/16" so the trailers match, plus it gives you a lot more reserve capacity and reduced ball wear. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3483-how-to-upgrade-the-bulldog-coupler-and-andersen-hitch-to-2-516/ John Davies Spokane WA

Old backpacking habits die hard, and this filter is a survivor, which also turns out a wonderful cup of coffee. This GSI filter clips onto just about any cup, takes #2 or #4 filters, which allow for very little water for cleanup. I haven’t broken it in 10 plus years of heavy use(quite a feat for anything to survive my ham-fisted antics for that long). It weighs less than 1/2 ounce. I boil water and control the bloom easily… makes a great cup, every bit the equal of my Technivorm Moccamaster at home.

Congrats Ed and Nancy!! Hope to see ya on the ROAD!

I agree. Each Summer I run from OK to OR and back. Out on the flat interstate out west, the speed limits generally are 80 MPH. If I run at the legal limit, I AM the island in the stream with hundreds of trucks a day running well over the limit. I will often follow (well behind) their convoys so as to not be a hazard. I employ extra following distance to avoid windshield damage, truck induced wake turbulence, and to let them clear out any deer, elk or other hazards. I can say that for sure, my F-150 SuperCrew Ecoboost and Ollie II can keep up at or beyond those posted limits when conditions are good. However going across I-80 there are some sections that almost always have severe alternating left/right cross winds cause me to slow down to 65 - 70 MPH for safety. My travel safety mitigations are: I set my truck's emergency anti-collision system to the most sensitive setting. I always tow with an Anderson with the ball greased. Ollie has never needed sway control. I use the Anderson only for WD purposes... as is required by Ford for their F-150's with tongue weights over 500 pounds. My loaded F-150 front and rear axle loadings are within 30 pounds of each other. To get that on my rig's set-up, I need and use 3 to 4 threads tension on the Anderson chains. I run Michelin Tires at 43 PSI cold, and they are always monitored by my dash mounted tire pressure monitoring system. I carry a DeWalt 20V air compressor so that I can check my tire pressures easily before the sun hits the tires. Having this compressor (With the hard case) makes this task easy. Let the sun or road miles hit your tires, and using a gauge is just guessing what you really have in the tires. I use a Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 800 non-Contact Digital Temperature Gun to check my tires every two hours or so. My Ollie loaded is 5700 pounds, and my truck has one person and about 500 pounds of gear. As such, I am towing well below the door sill weight limitations. Credit where credit is due, the idea for most of the above safety practices came from John D and other senior mentors on this web site. Geronimo John

No photo was taken at delivery. Probably good for the world to not seeing me. Not sure why, but it didn't happen. Delivery was quick and simple. Spent the first night at Crockett, and am still there for night #2. It is an Elite I, light blue and dark blue. I am by myself on this trip, heading back to the Los Angeles. No real issues. Was told that Cooper tires recommended 55 psi tire pressure. Given a too short brake breakaway cable that was attached to the safety chains that I fixed with a tractor supply run. Towing with a Tacoma - no issues first 40 miles. Using an Anderson hitch which is quite simple once set up properly. Forgot to get some peat moss or coir for the composting toilet. There was none in the toilet, which I assumed would be there along with the instruction manual. Glad I saw that. Still trying to figure out the furnace. I set the thermostat to heat and the a/c blower also comes on. Used a small electric heater last night, as it got down to the low 40's - got too warm inside. Opened a window a crack and turned off the heater, which made it quite comfortable. Will travel 300 miles Friday, which will be first real test with tow vehicle/trailer combo. Off to infinity and beyond.

Congrats on your New Ollie! Wishing you many safe miles on your future journeys.

Welcome to Tennessee! Hope you can get back soon. And most of all, congratulations on your new Oliver.

Congratulations on the new Ollie. For the issue of the AC fan coming on when the furnace is on, that sounds like you have the fan setting on the thermostat in the wrong mode. Check your manual on how to set the fan to “AUTO” mode.

Pleasant people everywhere, even the person who almost rearended me, towing my new trailer with less than 30 miles on it, when he came up to me while I was pumping gas and apologized for nearly hitting me.