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1/2 ton truck owners manuals do not address tongue weight, but trailer weight. My Tundra owners manual requires a weight distribution hitch if towing over 5000 lbs., period, regardless of how much of that is tongue weight. With your "6000 lb. LEII," you are still well advised to use a weight distribution hitch. And, a weight distribution hitch helps not only with sway, but with traction and turning control. Shifting some of the weight from the tow vehicle rear axle to the tow vehicle front axle makes turning more stable.

If you can find a competent local repair shop to do maintenance then you shouldn’t need to make an annual trip to Tennessee. I’ve got a local mom/pop repair shop just 15 minutes away. He’s been doing my maintenance for the last 7 years and has several other Olivers he services. In the early years he did some warranty work which was reimbursed by Oliver. Mike

Since I’ve had bad reactions, I haven’t shopped these products in years. Maybe they have changed them, but I believe they still have the distinct odor of formaldehyde that I remember — as I encounter them on store shelves now and then.

Since our trailer is Hull 505 Galway Girl we love Irish Coffee made with a melitta #4 pour over system.

Even us Canadians living in the USA are offended at your oversight. For penance you must stop at the next Tim Hortons you pass for breakfast.

Pay attention here, light duty truck owners. This is absolutely true.

Congrats on your upcoming retirement. You've made the right choice in an Oliver. We've owned two over the past 16 years starting in 2008. The company is following a business path that will keep them moving forward and customers happy for years to come.

I've done off and on research on the Acorn vs Bulge Acorn Nut dilemma since I first posted about these lug nuts and questions were raised over a year ago. What Frank said is true, there is less contact area with the wheel from the nut. From what I've read, there is an approximate 6% decrease. Otherwise the fit is perfect. I was unable to find anything in solid Stainless Steel that stated they were of the Bulge Acorn design. I've driven over 10K miles after installation. I torque to 95 pound-feet. There has never been a time I've discovered a loose lug nut. I do check. Bonus Information... that any good engineer would already know, but that I've only recently discovered, (I might have known it 53 years ago when I took physics at Ole Miss) Alert readers will note my use of “pound-feet” instead of “foot-pounds”. Are these units of measurement Interchangeable? The short answer is NO. They are each separate, distinct units of measure. The “pound-foot” (lb-ft) is a measure of torque. Torque is a measure of the force that can cause an object to rotate about an axis. The “foot-pound” (or more accurately, “foot-pound-force”), is a measurement of work. Work is the measurement of force over a given distance.

Counter and storage space is tight, but the black nectar of the Gods is life sustaining. I don’t have a solution for you (we use Melita cone and pour into a Stanley thermos), but I’m interested in seeing the responses. Maybe we’ll find a better way. And… Welcome to the tribe, and congrats on the soon to be new Oliver.

On our recent 6000 mile 42 day trip this Atlas served us extremely well along with our Garmin 890RV.

A quick Google search produced this: Damprid Moisture Absorber, Refillable, 10.5 oz, Twin Pack Packing, Solid, White to Off-White, Composition: Calcium Chloride, Sodium Chloride and Potassium Chloride, 2.15 Specific Gravity, OSHA Approved, For Bathrooms, Basements, Clothes Closets, Laundry Rooms, Bedrooms, Offices and Kitchens.

I use an aero press: https://www.amazon.com/AeroPress-Portable-Travel-Coffee-Press/dp/B07YVL8SF3/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2IDH7CBZ1K29E&keywords=aeropress&qid=1698864367&sprefix=aero%2Caps%2C311&sr=8-6. Good coffee, extremely easy cleanup, small storage space required. Takes fine-ground coffee (I bring along an electric grinder); for a large mug the first pour of 170°-water is drip, the second pour is press.

Coffe, one of my necessities! I have always preferred single cup serving methods. Nothing real fancy, but I have used the Primula classic stovetop espresso maker, Melitta plastic pour over #2 filter holder, Clever Dripper, French Press, and my current favorite, an AeroPress. I have the original and the travel size. The travel size lives in the Ollie. I heat water in an old Jet Boil backpacking stove outside while Krunch is still in bed. My coffee usually comes from Costco, whichever 2 lb. bag is on sale. At home I grind beans every morning and usual buy pre ground coffee for camping. And if you haven’t noticed, my morning coffee is on the cheap side. And I like it black! here's to your cup of ☕️, Mossey

I was not aware of the potential for problems. Thanks! I'll look into that

I am quite interested to learn if your Ford owner's manual refers to tongue weight rather than trailer weight when addressing weight distribution hitches. If it, in fact, refers to trailer weight, then in the event of an accident when towing your Oliver, your insurance company still has an opportunity to deny coverage based on failure to comply with the owners manual. I also don't like the idea of shifting load to the rear to reduce tongue weight. Trailers handle much better when loaded a bit tongue heavy (60% forward of the axles, 40% aft). A "6000 lb. LEII" should have tongue weight around 600 lbs. when properly loaded. I am much more comfortable loading the trailer a bit tongue heavy, and using the Andersen WD hitch. Finally, having now adjusted to the quirks of using the Andersen hitch after 1 year of ownership, I prefer the way our rig handles with it attached. So, I don't mind the minimal extra time and effort required to hook and unhook it. We "don't leave home without it."

Not true - at least in regards to Ford. Perhaps, technically, this statement IS true since I've not recently looked at my Ford Owner's manual. But, there Is a Ford sticker on the hitch assembly that states that a weight distribution hitch IS REQUIRED if the hitch weight (tongue weight) is over 500 pounds. Bill

Our Nespresso (Pixie) fits in the overhead above the sink when not it use. If it’s out and we need to cook/clean it’s easy enough to unplug and move to the dinette table. Mike

The dogs are back in from yard patrol, I’ve got a nice cuppa joe going, and in an hour or so the sun will peek up over the Wallowas. No complaints other than I’m sore from yesterday’s unsuccessful chukar chase.

@rich.dev, I went with the AC fans because I couldn't find anything comparable (smart/quiet) that were DC. These fans actually have EC motors, so even though they run on 120V AC, the motors are actually brushless DC so very efficient. I'm very happy with both the designs and results for both of my smart fans, so no, I wouldn't change anything unless they came out with DC only fans - even then, I'd wait for mine to break before replacing them. They run non-stop and haven't had any issues for 2.5 years now.

I am just a newbie. We are planning deliver of our Ollie in Mar 24 (followed by nearly simultaneous retirement). When evaluating RV options, Airstream almost won. Mostly because I live 15 miles from a full service AS dealership. I'm not a moron, but I'm also not an automotive engineer. The promise of having competent technicians 20 minutes from home was a big plus for the aluminum guys. In the end we committed to travelling from FL to TN yearly for expert evaluation/maintenance/advice..... If this lessens that commute, I vote Yeah. Everything I've written should be colored by the knowledge that I have no clue whether such actions will eviscerate the soul of the company. I pray not.

My poor word choice, Once the repair is complete, put the original fuse back in the fuse holder to complete the circuit.

I used to believe this as an absolute as well. Until I got to spend some time with MaxBurner and we weighed the tongue weight of my 6,000 pound OEII. I just "assumed" my tongue weight was around 650 to 700 pounds with all the stuff I carry in the front wardrobe, tongue aluminum box and a really really full pantry of canned goods. My extensive high speed out west in high gusts and 100 mph trucks zipping by with zero sway what so ever really cemented my wag of the tongue weight. But it weighed in at only 540 pounds. I was shocked. So if an OEII owner wanted to run without a front box and the tools, cloths and canned goods I carry; it would easy to get it down to 499 and drop off the Anderson. So, I'm adding into my list of absolute words to avoid the word "Requires". Ford liability shield limits their F-150 requires a WDH if towing over 5,000 pounds as stated in the below posts. Thanks guys! GJ

Nope, but I’m following. Thanks for getting the question started.

The 16x6 wheels that came on late model trailers like our '22 LE2 have steel inserts pressed into the lug nut wells. Should it matter whether the lug nuts are acorn or bulge acorn? It seems either type would be fine for wheels that have steel inserts.

Your extensive shop tooling, exceptional craftmanship, and willingness to spend the time certainly resulted in the most elegant install I have seen. But even if I had your shop and the time to invest, it would have been impossible for me to even consider trying replicating your skills. The much lower tech approach requires common tools plus a hydraulic cable crimper and hole saws to get the job done. But we all marvel at your and John D's amazing mods. They serve to elevate our thinking. GJ

The “acorn” type lug nuts (intended for steel wheels) will fit (same thread size), but they have less contact area with the wheel. The “bulge acorn” type lug nuts are recommended for aluminum wheels to provide a larger contact area (since aluminum is softer than steel) to prevent the aluminum surface from deforming and causing loose lug nuts.

@NCeagle, I really like your 2 mods, just a few questions..... 1) Why did you go with AC fans and not DC? 2) If you had to do it all over again would you use the same 2 smart fans? 3) Are you still happy with the design/results, would you change anything? Thanks!

The run time using propane to fuel a generator depends on the genset size with regards to wattage output. As I understand it, the new Truma a/c requires at least 3000W, whereas the former Dometic Penguin only 2000W. If you want to operate other loads simultaneously, one must plan accordingly in their genset selection. As a fuel consumption reference, my 2200W dual-fuel genny will provide a/c for approximately 16 hours on a single 30# propane tank; my unit is a Dometic Penguin 11,000 btu with EasyStart. That’s roughly two nights of a/c when overnighting boondock-style while traveling to a camp destination with full hookups. The equivalent run time on a 20# tank would be ~1/3 less. I did not opt for solar in my 2020 Ell; thus the generator was considered a ‘must have’’ at the time. To save money on the initial purchase, I did not opt for the 30# propane tank upgrade. My thought was to purchase the larger tanks aftermarket and use the stock 20# tanks for other purposes. The Oliver tanks were US made Manchesters and bought same brand at both Tractor Supply and Ace Hardware; three to be exact, two for the Oliver and one to carry undercap in reserve. All said, ended up with five tanks for about the price of the 30# upgrade offered by Oliver. By the way, Tractor Supply is my go-to propane supplier. As some have expressed the 30# tanks are heavier and thus, difficult to lift over the front housing. Personally, I made the chore easy by installing a hoist to wrangle them, as well as my dual-zone cooler, e-bikes and gensets. As for running the a/c on house batteries, generally not recommended with any other than lithiums. I recently ditched my four 6v Trojans for LFPs and added a transfer switch just so I could operate the a/c on battery. In doing so, nearly 150 lbs of weight loss and double the amp hours; anticipated run time 2-3 hours with safe margin. Now I don’t have to use the genny at the storage facility for a/c when needed; or more importantly during brief travel stops for meals, rest or other occasions. When back underway, a 40A DC-DC charger was installed in the Oliver for battery rebound. Regardless of my current setup, the generators are coming with! As previously mentioned, solar was another option I decided against, mainly due to the added cost and awkward appearance. I am however, making my Oliver ‘solar capable’ by adding a solar port fore and aft for eventual use of portables, but to begin with a 200W array atop my TV cap will suffice.

It will be very interesting to see how this plays out. I hope it ends up benefitting both Oliver and us as owners with expanded service locations. It could be a challenge for the network to gain the trust of those who are used to dealing with the experts in Hohenwald (it's REALLY nice to be able to get solid information when there is a question or issue) so top-notch, maintained training at these facilities will be so important. And having the service department remain at the mothership would still afford us options as well as an opportunity to visit Tennessee, which we have come to love since our purchase and trips there.

There are at least 22.5 opinions about how many BB's to pack into an OEII, and how to hook them up. One nice, but expensive and time consuming to do idea floated and done by several owners is to clean out as much as possible wiring from the battery compartment. I figured that since LifePO4 batteries are pretty much maintenance free, I would not go that route. My DYI install considerations were: Ease of installation and inspection. Leave space for a master cut off switch Minimize changes to existing wiring Use as much existing wiring as possible. In the battery box, install three Battleborns, the Smart Shunt and a Master Cutoff Switch (350 Amp BlueSeas) To do this I also used two terminal blocks (Red and Black) and some poly cutting board. When all said and done, the master cut off switch had about 1/4" clearance. Here is a picture. it shows two heavy duty straps. 'll be adding a third this summer. As you can see, there is no room for a 4th battery. One important consideration of any layout is keeping all the connections easily visible for both mechanical and thermal check-up every once in a blue moon. For the thermal check, I use the John Davies recommended IR detector that works well with wheel bearing and brake checks at road stops. GJ

Even if I had solar, I keep my ‘COW’ in a fully enclosed storage facility which would nuke that option to keep the house batteries topped off. Been thinking the solution is to install a separate dedicated battery charger, set the ‘Inverter Ignition Control’ to AUTO as you stated, and thus, not rely on the Xantrex charge function.

I'm not sure what "normal" is for these inverters. However, there is a charge setting (at least for the 3000 W unit, and I think for the 2000 W unit) whereby you can control charging. When the "charger ignition control" is "off" then the batteries will charge automatically when you plug into shore power. When the "charger ignition control" is in the "auto-on" position the 120 V electrical system is powered, but the batteries do not charge from shore power (the batteries still charge from solar, if available). I know, the names and settings are not fully intuitive.

Agreed. One caveat: they are heavy when full (approx 55 pounds). After I threw my back out doing something else I was somewhat flummoxed trying to put a full 30# tank back in the doghouse.

Or you could make a pit stop in Lutz on your way home and we can look for it together. Mossey

Managed to complete the new detector install yesterday…. Now moving on to the Victron DC-DC Charger install…

No apologies necessary. Yes, you can, in a pinch. Simply unconnect the wires and reconnect the wires to the new detector. It’s a straight forward 12 volt connection.

Your 2022 Elite II should have a large red solar panel cutoff switch in the overhead compartment just aft of the pantry. In addition to cutting solar power, you should remove the CO/LP detector fuse before replacing the detector. That 1-amp fuse in your 2022 Elite II should be accessible through the forward panel under the bed on the street side. Just replace the fuse once the replacement is complete. See photo below.

On our boat, and in the Ollie, out of season, we remove anything that absorbs moisture. Cushions, bedding, towels, etc. (Florida) Those items live in semi-comdtioned space, in the garage. We clean the heck out if the interior, before storage. And, I wax the interior walls and other fiberglass surfaces. The one year I didn't, I got som mildew in the bath sink top. (Not granitefiber-original white , that was a pita to remove.)

D&M, Oliver is our first TT, as soon as Maggie found it online, and said she wanted it, that was good enough for me. We placed our order in May '20, went to the factory for a tour and to see the various options in person. We would have added the Lithium package if it had been available at the time. We picked up in August, and were on our way. We have had it 3.5 camping seasons with about 40k camping miles, see our map. After we bought a new "TRUXEDO LO PRO TONNEAU COVER" we found out this summer travelling hundreds of Km's on dirt roads up in Canada, we had a lot of dust & some moisture in the bed and settle on the contents. I did have a towel to stop dust from coming up & in from the bottom of the tail gate where it hinges to the bed. We also purchased a rack which "shares" the bedrail along with the Tonneau cover to carry Kayaks, his is 12' hers is 10', not sure how long I will continue to enjoy loading and unloading them. The bed rail rack, may have something to do with Tonneau cover's inability to hold out the dust. My solution was to cover with a tarp & tuck it around the contents before closing the Tonneau. In closing, let me state what others have not... "You will find a way to fill up the bed of your truck"... Regards, Bryan, Maggie & Willis (aka Kamper Kat)

Quartzsite is not at all our idea of boondocking in the wonderful state of Arizona. However, it is an RVing Snowbird paradise, yes! 🙂 Before or after Quartzsite, if any of you, who want to venture just 3 hours north to visit Prescott AZ (5400 FT elevation during winter, with a low very probability of snow) are welcome here! We can park and hookup water/power to 1 or 2 of you at a time, with a dump station down the road at the local RV dealer. There are FS campsites and secluded 'dispersed' camping EVERYWHERE (no fees anywhere), with amazing views in all directions! Prescott is real Arizona, as it was founded by the Union Army in 1862, an amazing oasis in the dry SW. Just let me know! (PM) I have 3 gigs scheduled early 2024 and nicely this week is free for us, so timing is excellent. Chris and I, being new to OTT ownership and this forum, would love to meet all of you! Hopefully, we get critical mass of Oliver owners at this 2024 Quartzsite meet!

This sounds great! If only I can leave in time to get there — might be too early for me to leave home, though.

Wonder if you could ride inside it? Wife took the truck into town and you want something from the camp store? No problem! Just drive your trailer down to the store! LOL! I'd do it just for the reactions. Drive it down your row of campsites and watch the look on your neighbors' faces as the random trailer rolls past. Probably best that I don't buy one......

When we ordered last August, not getting solar was not an option with lithium. They came as a package. As noted previously, changing to lithium/solar later is a very expensive proposition. Much more than getting it from the get go. Almost all of the wiring needs to be replaced with the heavier wire that lithium needs, along with the different controllers, and other components. I'm probably misremembering, but I thought someone checked with Oliver, and it was going to be about $10k more than having it done when built. For us, the choice to add the Platinum Pro package was the most expensive option, and the easiest to swallow. On some of your other questions, here's my response as first time trailer owners (we had a square-back teardrop prior, so basically dry tent camping.) Auto Drain: We opted not to get this for two reasons. Keeping things simple (it relies on an electrical switch and a motor), but more importantly, it is out of sight, so something you might forget. With the manual handle, when closing up the trailer, I always fold the steps and look inside to make sure the handle is pressed in. Doing those routinely together ensures I'll never forget (yea, right...) And if like me, you didn't pay attention during the walkthrough, simply remember Drive-In, CampOut. Handle is in when driving, and out while camping (or dumping) We opted not to get the electric door lock. Just something else to go wrong. The key is smaller than the fob when carrying in a pocket. The backup camera was the last thing we decided on when ordering. (Actually, much later, because you can change your order up to the point where you pay off the first 50%) I had considered adding my own, but having the wiring and witch already in place saved a lot of headaches. I expected to only use it while backing into a site, but in actuality, I never do. I use it a *lot* on the highway when watching traffic behind me, and especially when changing lanes. Upgraded mattresses: When we ordered was when Oliver was changing from KTT to whoever makes the current mattresses. When visiting other owners with the KTT mattress, we loved the firmness, and had decided to go that route. When we got to the factory for our tour and to order, they'd switched vendors. Some people love them, but we found them much too soft and flimsy, almost like a cheap motel mattress. So we ordered without the upgrade option, and then ordered a pair of Oliver specific mattresses direct from KTT. Shipped to our home, they were almost the same cost as the Oliver upgrade. A few other owners have done the same. Here's what we ordered: - Oliver Legacy Elite II Twin Bed - Standard Mattresses (KTT mattresses after receipt) - Standard Fabric - Midnight - Hypervent - Omnidirectional Antenna (local weather etc. if we don't have cell service) - Street Side Awning - Frosted Cabinet Doors - Convection Microwave - 20 Gallon Propane (to keep tongue weight down) - Front/Rear Propane Quick-Connects - Standard Toilet (with possible AirHead composting replacement) - Full Truma Package AC, Furnace, Water Heater and Antifreeze kit - Lithium Platinum Package - Backup Camera - Rear Bumper Receiver (converted to 2" after receipt) - Anderson Hitch - Aluminum Storage Basket - Basement Door - No Graphics Over six months after our pickup date and 44 nights of use, there's nothing we'd have changed.

John is right on the money here. The YouTube videos don't give you the whole story and those people aren't you. We rented before we bought our first trailer and it was very instructive as to what we needed and wanted. RVing has as many problems and frustrations as regular house living (maybe more) and those problems are different than the ones you're used to.

These are the best deal I found and it took me a couple of years to find them. They are solid stainless steel. No outer sheath. Seat is perfect and they look great. $3.67 each.

Hi Everyone, You may have noticed some members with a different name markup (Bolded) and user group Member+? This is a new user group created that helps identify members that are highly active on the forums. These members have over 200 posts and have become fairly well known around the forums to everyone and staff. There is no real benefit, no extra permissions, but it is fancier and an incentive to be active in the Oliver Owner's community. If you have over 200 posts and have not been automatically promoted to this user group, then you need to logout and then log back in so the automated system can upgrade the account. If you have any other trouble or questions please feel free to private message me. In the future there may be more user groups to be automatically promoted to as the forums grow. This is a common practice to adapt to a growing community. Thanks y'all and have a good day!

Beware of potential ill effects from formaldehyde. Many people are fine with exposure, but others suffer greatly.