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On the rear of our Dometic toilet - where the water connection is, there's an integrated washer/screen at the fitting (where the arrow is pointing below). This screen can get clogged and reduce the flow/pressure to the toilet. The same goes with most faucets. You can remove the screen at the faucet where the water comes out - clear it of debris, and your flow is usually restored.

Just for Giggles , do you have another water pump and accumulator you could switch onto the system. I have a water issue in one of my campers, changed out both of them and situation seemed to be resolved. Farthest sinks from pump were low pressure. The pump was just weak? I have even had new ones weak off the get go.

We had a similar issue with both our toilet (low flow) and the bathroom sink faucet (very low flow) last year. After clearing out each of the diffuser screens - the flow rate came back up to the same level as the kitchen sink. It appeared that there was an accumulation of calcification particles in the screens. Try removing the diffuser from the faucet and examining the screen to remove any debris. Easy fix, for us at least...

Also known as an aerator, when referring to faucets.

My water pressure in the bathroom is the same as the kitchen. John

I'm an old map guy too, but you cannot ever buy the thousands of USGS maps, in quadrangle detail available. I have hiking maps, trail maps marked with dispersed camping detail, and more. Not talking about driving down an Interstate or US highway. Check out this map we downloaded for your first ever Oliver camp last July. Do note, the roads with the '. . .' alongside the roads. These stand for roads that allow dispersed camping. There is NOT a printed map in the world that shows this detail except for some NFS maps. The blue dot was our camp and the next pic explains itself!

I got better flow everywhere in the Oliver when I switched from this to this https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/products/263a-lf-regulator-stainless?_pos=1&_sid=7382cb9a5&_ss=r

Slow speed on the cordless drill, holding straight, even constant pressure. Never had fancy drill bits in all my years, since every repair is a one-off (unless you run a woodshop). Go for it! ☺️

The key to the install of this stuff is to clean, clean, clean prior to even thinking about applying the gutter material. Bill p.s. and a nice warm day doesn't hurt either - 80 degrees plus

I wanted to reach out to everyone regarding this issue. We have been made aware of the issue and are currently investigating. At this time it appears to be a single incident but we will be continuing our investigation.

That's our thought. We've talked about it, many times. Over the past 16 seasons, how would one of the others fared? Rubber roofs, interior rot, leaks, etc. I'm good with what I own, 16 seasons in. It was expensive, yes. The longevity, yes. Problem free? What? A few. Nothing major. In it for the long run.

I didn't realize I was buying a palace when I got my LE2. Ok, I opted for the thicker mattresses and the roof mounted air conditioner (what? that's standard?). I also purchased the upgraded lithium battery option. However, with all of the options I put on it, it will never be as comfortable or as extravagant as: To me, luxury has a different meaning and something I wouldn't buy for any amount of money. I bought my Oliver because it is the best built, highest quality travel trailer that makes the absolute best use of space in the industry. Lux? No way.

Yup. For us, luxury is dry, warm, stuff that works. Easy tow. Easy entrance to campsites that sunblockers can't use. I never thought if our trailer as lux, til this conversation, but it truly is, for us. Loving my 2008.

Oliver has always been considered a luxury travel trailer, like a yacht or a sailboat, even in 2017 when I first started. Perhaps not in terms of having a jacuzzi but in other ways. Technology, Features, Quality, Etc.

I can't imagine what the first bath in 67 years must feel like - no wonder you like it.😂

I admit to being spoiled living in the Western USA with Federal Public Lands everywhere, it seems. Especially where we like to visit and camp. Settlers in the 19th Century needed lower elevations with water. Dry areas without available water, good soil or long Winters and short growing Seasons were not ideal homestead properties. Good for those of us who enjoy exploring, rock hunting, wild life exposure, fishing, hiking and just sitting outside with few others within eye sight. First and the BEST option: DeLorme Atlas of the State you would like to visit, or know more about a State you may want to go further into the Public Domain. BLM, National Forest, National Grasslands and all other possibilities at your flipping through the pages of an Atlas of choice. The year of the Atlas does not matter. Most of the roads off the paved roads have been there since the Oregon Trail, Logging and Mining. Ranchers dropping livestock off for Summer grazing. Fall Hunting Season is a big business for small western remote communities. The local Forest Service maintains the main unpaved roads and when money permits... the side roads and fence for grazing leases for cattle. I pulled out Arizona and scanned the important details. Also on the back of the Atlas, you find an area you may want to Explore... the map page number is at your finger tips. We carry those Atlases that we may be near or going to. You never know. Also mark the camping spots on the map, so we can return. On the return... we can then expand our travel on the, often, very good Forest Service roads. The Oliver has high clearance and 16 inch tires. If your Tow Vehicle had 2wd you may be limited on... some... but not many side roads. If you have 4x4 there is almost unlimited options in some areas. Arizona has lots of people living in the Forests... and I just pulled it out as it was handy. But... there are places in the mountains, but expect lots of locals on the weekends and holidays. What questions do you have? Someone may be able to help you. What about the Midwest and Eastern States? Any advice as to general references. Saddle up your Oliver Elite and hitch your multiple Horse Power Tow Vehicle and get with it.

I took a page from @csevel and copied her window vent idea. I did add a couple of small twists. I used a thicker/softer automotive weatherstrip where the window meets the vent. I also put some of that weatherstrip across the top so the vent panel kind of springs in like the screens do (press upward to install/remove). Note: you do have to release the bottom edge of the window shade to get the vent into place. Then I added some EZ gutter over the window, leaving a 1/4" gap around the frame for future recaulking. Hoping this will allow us to leave that window open in light to moderate rain now. On the downside, we've had another warranty issue. The RV Lock electronic lock failed. Examination revealed that the lock was improperly installed in the door cutout. The installer simply let it rest in the bottom of the cutout instead of centering it vertically before drilling the holes in the jamb edge (or the cutout hole is too big). This left a tiny gap at the top edge of the exterior lock body where water intruded, causing the lock electronics to fail. OTT is sending another lock, but the jamb screw holes are already drilled too low so I'll have to install the new lock in the same spot and run a bead of clear sealant over the top edge of it to keep water out in the future. 😕 Still waiting for our replacement toilet flange, too. OTT shipped the parts via ground rather than overnight or 2-day. Somewhat miffed at that since we can't camp until I fix the toilet. Between the Dexter axle recall (not OTT's fault), the toilet, and the lock, we're losing a lot of our camping season. And, camping time has suddenly become very precious to us.

Art: I think using the pic shown is perfect. Shows the space that we can gain very clearly. I'll be packing the "Hatch Door" with me this summer! GJ

Same here for us, Mike. AGMs served us just fine with our previous TT - however, for us at least, the Lithiums have been a game changer. For example, we just returned from a short 3-nighter to Columbus, NM. We started each afternoon with 100% SOC on the BBs (200w portable solar module tucked away in the TV). Standard boon-docking afternoon/evening drill for us is fridge operating in gas mode, inverter OFF, dinner off the gas grill, cocktail lamp - "LIT", furnace OFF, Starlink up and an after-dinner "Shoot 'em Up" movie (neither one of us makes it to the end before crashing-out)... The three nights averaged an 11% drop in SOC by morning. The OTT 340watt solar module roof mount (during MAR sun angles near the US/Mexico border) brought the SOC back up to 100% by 3pm-ish. FYI: DAY-2 was overcast, but we still had 100%SOC before we lit the cocktail lamp - we're love'n this system! Cheers, ALL!

@MAX BurnerThank you for the picture, I did not know there was a screen there. Mine has a filter connected to that but I bet there is still a filter there I need to clean. I have done the filter/aerators in the faucets and so far I think what has made the biggest difference is cleaning the pressure regulators followed by replacing the aerator and or shower head.

We drilled smaller diameter pilot holes, as we always do. You can try the blue tape thing, I guess, though we've never done it. Pilot, followed by bigger hole. If you use butyl, all the holes will self seal. (We sealed old holes with epoxy) I know it's intimidating at first. But, it's not that bad. I'd guess total install time was two hours, or less. One on roof, one inside. We did "build up" a bit with butyl tape, if I remember correctly, for the slight incline, front to back of the hull.. Love the light. Also, make sure you read instructions for drainage hole placement.

Not a very warm winter here, but better than some regions. No snow, anyway! 😅

HA! It hasn't changed much - they actually sell rattle cans at the CR for like 10 bucks now!

Yes, we used a countersink bit... The bezel hangs about an 1" from the overhead: Hope this helps out...

Headed further south! Now in High Falls GA. A lot warmer here, and the traffic in/out of Atlanta was horrible! Headed down to Mobile tomorrow.

I’ve done it twice. It took the better part of an afternoon to do all the windows. Mike

So true. We love our Benchmark Atlases for travel out west, with BLM and USFS areas highlighted with dispersed campgrounds.

Trust me, you don't want to get trapped with us down that rabbit hole. For details you can spend a week reading the 20 mile long posts on this subject. Bottom line is no. GJ Chief Rabbit Hole Inspector

Should you go this direction, you will for sure want to have a very durable and tight fitting cover for the rear bumper mounted Honda. The amount of dust and grime that flies around back there will destroy your generator in no time if you don't protect it. GJ

While I like having Apple Maps, Google Maps and Waze telling me where to go while driving, there’s nothing better than paper maps that can be spread out and studied. You can see where you are, where you need to go, how to get there and any interesting detours along the way. Maybe four decades in the Army shaped my view. Carol usually has the atlas or some other map open while we’re driving along. It gives you the big picture rather than the small snapshot on the electronic vehicle display. Mike

What screw length did you purchase? Thinking of pre-purchasing them and adding even if not needed right now. GJ

Decalcification of your entire system should be done typically every four years. The hot water side will typically calcify faster than the cold. Is there a flow difference between your hot water flow vs. cold water flow to the bathroom? GJ

For what it's worth, the extra length of the plumbing run to our Elite II bath does not noticeably affect the flow volume or pressure vs. the kitchen. In your shoes, I would be looking for some kind of blockage in the bath supply line, starting with possible calcium buildup over the past 8 years since Hull # 158 was built.

Corrosion between dis-similar metal is common in the boating world. Very common to find severe corrosion between, say, a 6061 aluminum mast pad or hardware pedistal and a bronze halyard winch if the two are bolted directly together. A thin layer of plastic between the two virtually eliminates this problem, particularly if you use an anti-sieze on bolt (typically stainless) threads. I use lanolin anti-sieze commonly found in boating stores. My favorite barrier material is easy and cheap to make. Prepare a smooth surface with mold release wax, lay a section of a light fiberglass cloth (say an 8 oz) and saturate with a laminating epoxy such as West Systems or System Three. You now have a sheet of flexible barrier material which can be cut to size as needed.

@Lisa Rae I think that judging the water flow by eye is very subjective. To accurately compare the bath and kitchen water flow you need a bucket and a timer. Start with each faucet and run hot and cold water separately into the bucket for 15 seconds, if the bucket is large enough. Then measure the accumulated water and compare the hot and cold water in each bucket. Are both the hot and cold water flows nearly the same? The next steps will require removing each component and testing against the baseline measurements. If you are happy with the water flow at the kitchen sink, move onto the bathroom. Note 1: There may be restrictive aerators in each faucet. For example, we have a .75 gallon aerator in the bath faucet but there is a 1.5 gallon aerator in the separate shower head. Our OEM kitchen faucet aerator can’t be changed. Note 2: The black fitting behind the toilet is a filter, not a pressure regulator. Mossey

Yup that’s the factory heat duct, comes std with the truma varioheat furnace/heater.

Ditto!

I like donuts, but donut don't like me.

This sentence describes me to the core in everything I do.

If not, here is a great article from Jason Essary: Decalcification - Hard Water Buildup - Loss of Water Pressure (olivertraveltrailers.com)

When people ask me how I like my LE2, my canned response is, "I Love it, If you can live with the size, you won't find a better built trailer." I point out that Oliver makes two sizes and this is the bigger one. We have the king bed so when people look inside all they see is the bed and then the small kitchen/dinette area. It is functional but if we have to stay inside for bad weather it gets pretty small pretty fast. We're considering a larger trailer for when we stay for an extended time but for a month or less on the road you can't get a better unit. I wish they offered a larger unit, but alas, I expect it is no closer to reality then when I first asked about a bigger unit back in 2020. I'm told that it costs millions to R&D a new mold from drawing board to production. IMO, at this point Oliver is producing some of the best trailers on the market in their size and class. You can't beat it for the money.

In the video you included, I have the same water pressure in the bathroom as you have in your kitchen sink, so definitely not normal. You might have kink in a hose somewhere.

Based on that definition, I would say that our Oliver is a luxury, but isn't luxurious. And that's what we wanted.

Make sure that you get SPECIFIC instruction as to the location. They are not very far out of the center of Murfreesboro but they are on a rural road and it is fairly easy to miss the "entrance" into the property. A good look at Google maps with the Satellite view will help. Tell the guys "hi" for me and see ya at the Rally! Bill

Luxury is in the eye of the beholder! 😉

Did you guys not get the optional Jacuzzi tub, the crystal chandelier and the other items in the "luxury" package?

WoW, thank you for this incredibly thorough explanation and photos of your trouble and solution for the Norcold refrigerator. Very helpful!

That little generator will easily fit in the back of your truck bed, along with a GOOD gas can.. (A dual fuel model can be connected to your trailer propane system.) You don’t need to store it outside in the weather and filth. I assume that you have some sort of cover for the bed. Keep it near the back, slide it out into the tailgate to operate it, or just set it on the ground and loop a bike cable lock around the trailer frame. The little 1000 watt suitcase units are great for battery charging but they won’t multi-task at all. Or operate the air conditioning😥 For much easier access to everything in the truck, add a bed slide (loooong drawer with roller bearing slides). John Davies Spokane WA

Great answer, thank you. How would I get the tray, just use the Oliver website? Sorry for being such a newbie. I haven't checked for the connection. The generator would definitely be a 1000, as that is all I can lift. I would have to go to higher elevations to escape heat.

This Link covers my Dometic A/C Drain Leak Repair. Mossey