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Just by way of an "UPDATE": We pulled into a nice Harvest Host location yesterday afternoon at the "BAR-Z Winery" in Canyon, TX about 20 miles south of Amarillo near Palo Verde SP. We've logged just over 1,400 miles since R&R efforts of the AxleTek and ALCAN spring packs. A prior-to-departure torque inspection revealed no more "U-bolt stretch" as the nuts met target torque specs. For us, at least, our higher level of confidence in the running gear and general peace of mind knowing we've got 2k#-rated 5-spring leaf packs under our 3.5k# axles was worth the $'s, time, and effort in this upgrade, FYI. Cheers from a couple "Happier Campers"!

It was the first LE2 sold to the public and the last one sold before the shutdown. The only 2010 titled Ollie too.

Only if there is still an option to still have the fan run continuously. None of you have heard Deb snore! (Well, maybe some of you within four or five sites of us at last year's rally...)

I am not a metallurgist, but it seems to me that less flexibility should=less stress on the welds, not more. And, intuitively, doubling the crossmember material should strengthen the entire assembly, reducing stress on the welds.

Short answer often not. Think of earthquake proof buildings and those that are not. The ones that flex and bend under the stress survive. The solid ones crumble. An efficient solution is to have more cross members properly attached to the main frame members. Load distribution is the idea. Less load, less overload, less failures. The supported tanks would like it much better as well. GJ

Like my Grandchildren say, Sweet!

I recently sent a suggestion email to service@trumacorp.com concerning the Aventa A/C system. While I'm pleased with system, I do not like the fact that the fan runs continuously if the A/C is turned on. I would like to it run like a household system where you can put the fan in the "auto" setting where it only comes on if the compressor is working, or the "on" position where the fan runs continuously. My hopes are this, if enough other Oliver owners feel the same way and let Truma know, then maybe they can come up with some kind of firmware update for their system. This is definitely not a critical issue, but if others feel the same then truma might have some more motivation. I included what I sent to them and their response. Hi, I recently bought an Oliver RV. I ordered it with the Truma Aquago comfort, Varioheat furnace, and Aventa air conditioning system. So, needless to say I trust the Truma product line. All three components have performed well. I do, as a consumer, have a request or an idea for not only myself but many other friends I have here in your North America district would like to share with you. Unanimously, everyone I have spoke with that has the Aventa air conditioning system would like some type of firmware update that would allow the option to have the blower or fan to cycle off and on as the compressor is needed. Having the fan noise continuously run can be somewhat disruptive during the night while sleeping and also mask the sounds of nature that we enjoy while camping. Again, I love the Aventa A/C system but would like the option for the fan to be like a household system were you can put the fan on AUTO or ON. I encourage any feedback from you on this and look forward to what can be done. Thanks, Mike Their response: Hi Mike. Thank you for your suggests. They are good ones. I have forwarded this on to our product development team. Best Regards, Melissa Ettline Customer Care Associate

Hull 45 has 1 x 2 rectangular tubing and not the stitched channel. It has 5 of these from levelers back to the bumper and only one of them has a very slight bow to it.

The trailer tows perfectly fine - perhaps even a bit better in high cross wind conditions when we traversed the TX pan-handle. 90-degrees off left to right at 30-35mph. Solid! Nothing noted…. I’m going to ride in the OTT while D drives thru the neighborhood as before we upgraded them to “feel” the before/after….

The Houghton group have the same feelings about the same situation as yours. The installation of a relay to shut down the fan with the compressor has resulted in a vast improvement. I have to wonder if the Aussie Engineer at Houghton moonlights for the Aventa folks. If so that would explain the twin disasters. The other issue the Houghton's have is that it does not have a remoted T-stat. We have a solution successfully implemented with the SOB's, but routing is still being worked in our OE2's for the thermistor to bring the Houghton up to world class. GJ PS: Several of us OTT owners will be working the thermistor solution over the summer.

@rideandfly wrote this first and I have to side with this argument: "Question, would doubling the crossmember material create more stress on the welds due to less flexibility?" Yes. You must consider vibration. When materials are flexible, they absorb vibration and put less stress on the connection, in this case the weld. The stiffer the material, it will move less and the vibration is passed it on to the connection. I've never seen Aluminum C-channels or even angle iron welded together in the manner. I believe the hulls with this design will always fail at this weld point.

I think this would be an interesting mod. We are not bothered by the sound of the fan, but have noticed, under some circumstances, that the humidity of the air exiting the vents of the Truma becomes very humid when the compressor clicks off. It generally occurs when it is not very hot but very humid outside and the compressor cycles on for only a short time. Of course the dehumidify mode quickly lowers the humidity, but also causes the temperature to plunge. I suspect that if the blower turn off when the compressor cycled off this humidity burst would not be an issue.

We should be getting up the enough with ALCAN for a volume discount!

Shurhold said their Wax and Buff Magic (compound) is for Auto and Marine use. Already had plenty of Meguiar's Flagship wax and One Step compound on the shelf, decided to finish using the Meguiar's products before moving to Shurhold products. Last time I visited Oliver a few years ago, one of the guys on the floor said they use Buff Magic after taking Ollies out of the mold. Only used wax on the Tundra, no compound.

At least 3 that we are aware of.

How many trailers have had this weld crack or break?

Thanks, @Patriot. The noise isn't a deal breaker, but it would be nice if the fan cycled.

Hey Max, Ask your bride to keep it under 100 while you’re in the Ollie. 😄

Just my opinion, Agree, too much concentrated stress on the doubled cross-member welds. Load needs to be distributed to additional cross-members (one way to do it), especially for those doing overland type camping. We probably have the lightest LE2 with ready to camp weights of 4900 to 4950 pounds running under 50psi in the tires with 99% of travel on paved roads and empty water tanks. We still had a weld to crack. I am not a mechanical engineer, just lots of experience in industrial machine rebuild and manufacture, before retirement.

Just returned from a road trip looking at Patriot's 2020 LE2 Ollie Hull #634 with the later frame compared to our original frame on our 2015 LE2. There are some differences on the newer Ollie compared to our 2015 Ollie #75, but the newer Ollie still has the doubled channel cross-member under the hot water heater area. The newer Ollie has more angle replacing some of the cross-member channel when compared to the older Ollie, but my older Ollie has angle cross-members over the axles, too. You can also see on the 2020 frame the inverted suspension saddle (my description) over the main frame giving a jack location that the older 2015 frame does not have extended as far for a jack location. Aluminum channel cross-members on both Ollie's appear to be the same size. 2020 LE2 Ollie's cross-member doubled and stitch welded under the water heater: 2015 LE2 Ollie's cross-member doubled and stitch welded under the hot water heater, you can also see the cracked weld in some of these photos, plan to have the crack repaired tomorrow: If you look at the doubled channel cross-member in this photo of the older LE2 Looks like a downward bow, probably found on most Ollies, I did not look at this on the 2020 Ollie. Would probably need a straight edge to measure the downward bow. Downward load on the doubled cross-member that is cracking welds.

I had the double C-channel and the one closer to the wheels break (see pic). If you were to take the time to remove the doubled piece, I would weld it in place halfway between the two that broke on mine. It's great that you found the crack prior to the weld failing, as mine had pulled and bent the LP line. Reasons that I had thought of was NOT the fresh tank, which is flat and long, its weight distributed across many support beams and over the wheels. Instead, running at 80 PSI was one reason I had thought of. Also, given the location, perhaps prior owners had used RR leveler jack wheels up in the air. Now I'm thinking it's the double channel at fault and after this weld failed it put more tension on the one in front that also failed on our hull. I found our broken welds upon purchase. The prior owner had never noticed it, even though he claimed to have just lubed the suspension.

Good luck, wonderful place to travel to. Have been on that road a number of times and sometimes it's terrible and once or twice fairly smooth sailing for a gravel road at least. Maybe you'll hit it just after a fresh grading.

Another update for those interested. Heard back from tech support on my ticket this morning asking for photos which I forgot to initially send. Uploaded those, received a quick reply that all info would be forwarded to the higher up engineering folks and that the ticket would be closed. Not much really to go on, oh well. In the meantime, after considering another post earlier on, apologies don't recall who posted it, but they are correct the fresh water tanks are quite a bit further forward than this one doubled up L channel supports. Its curious that all of the people who have had these weld breaks are at the same place, same brace and yet have nothing to do (directly) with the support of the heaviest item the water tank. Why did they not use a square tube, instead of stitch welding two L brackets? Why is there so much apparent weight distributed at this one point? I'm baffled. Thanks

Did you drive into Palo Verde? I was on a bicycle trip from San Diego to St. Louis and an Austrian cyclist rented a car and we all drove through it. I had never heard of it. How is the ride for the trailer? Any stiffer? Any down side? We have a 2022 LE2 and I checked under the trailer for welds and leaf spring condition. All looks good. John

Good news and thanks for the road trip update. My Alcans are installed and I have a 1,700 mile trip scheduled for later this month. I too am looking forward to the peace of mind over the poor performance of the EMCO spring packs that came on my E2. Did you notice any negatives from towing with the 2,000 vs. 1,750 rated spring packs?

That would give us all a chance to go out to eat, too? 🙂

I would install a switch at the fuse box.

I too, cannot figure that out. Turning it down to lowest setting and it will still run (when I need to defrost it). The only way I know to totally turn it off is to pull the 12v fuse. I been thinking about installing a switch to make it easier.

You need a neutral ground plug like this one https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-Company-LLC-44400-Generator/dp/B07F4R7BDL/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1U28YA880VP37&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.I-pLsdfsMyYCXEnn08O01KLUWNGgc26-op4qZF23eekGNYeLblqAXvM7jvBKtuyHFrxtHpXL5f6cL8FSi43Z7i0-Ghxnmndu2ScDGmdjoijtou40TOc4LQdmFPl_YTpxWreQi_NPNlG_7bxGLMmP5WcTg-GKlhR9MhCt0RYGTgW1t8Eh9g5AVLeSX4ubHy4QUgnhQ6LxszOW4yIDEK1R4Cc6DfCqmaDugvAB7mSsIRc.dTWhDb8tlbu6JiBaZ1olHYxHljGMDsnniRy5XQOetGk&dib_tag=se&keywords=generator+neutral+ground+bonding+plug&qid=1712764295&sprefix=generator+neutr%2Caps%2C317&sr=8-4

Will be interesting to see Oliver's solution. Started looking at this yesterday, there is 11" between the failed weld crossbeam and next crossbeam to the front on #75 LE2. The crossbeam behind the crossbeam with failed weld is over 13". The same size and length of aluminum 6061 channel could be welded equal distance between the crossbeam with failed weld and crossbeam to the front to reinforce this area with rubber sandwiched between the channel and fiberglass like the original channel. Probably not needed, but the same could be done between the next beam to the rear, too. Just a thought.

Good point, thus far I have not contacted Oliver about this but your advice is well taken. I will add this in all fairness, we have owned this TT for 9 years, some 25K miles and driven many backroads in that time and this is the first time we experienced this failure. However I still stand behind my previous comment, this is a poor design for its intended use. Like you we also camp most of the time where fresh water is not available, and just as important its deep backcountry for our adventures which requires gravel backcountry roads. Thanks

So, no boondocking? By definition, the places we boondock do not have potable water supplies, so we carry our fresh water in the tank from home. Please include that advice from your welder in a service ticket. Oliver Service needs to know that at least one reputable welding establishment believes the Elite II cannot safely carry a loaded fresh water tank as designed.

As usual...very good advice. It does get easier the more you use it. We usually remove the Andersen chains (and whale tail) and stow in the truck any time we stop for 2 nights or more, so we get plenty of practice connecting and disconnecting :) John

We were near Gatesville, TX for the eclipse yesterday - a private ranch with 68 or so various fiberglass rigs, a couple AS's, and an Imagine - there were 11 LE2 Olivers in the mix. Here's some PIX and a VID of the eclipse from our iPhones: IMG_1534.MOV Incredible experiencing the darkness and the coolness setting in as totality was established (4 min + 16 sec from our location)...

Hi Steve, We are in Grapeland, Tx experiencing a few thunderstorms following the eclipse event earlier. The rest of today and most of tomorrow will be on the iffy side with the weather BUT we have Hull 996 with an Oliver microwave installed and our upper exterior compartment for the fridge is a little different from yours. I'll try to get some pictures to post tomorrow or the the next day to show how we did our installation. We have the Beech Lane 2 fan combo that is featured in Don's (dhaig) post. We are happy with the install and the results. We had (and still have) Oliver's single fan installed, where they put it, and our desire was to put in the Beech Lane fans and have them set to come on prior to the single fan...so far, so good. Our motivations were the single fan was becoming a little too noticeable (noise wise) and the struggle with summer temps.. The Beech Lane fans, even at their fastest speed, are much quieter on the inside of the cabin. We have yet to see the impact on our batteries while boondocking, so I can't help there. And the summer is still on the horizon. Our install went well and the result mostly shows that we're able to operate using a slightly lower setting (on the control panel) and hold a more consistent temp inside the freezer. We are happy with the effort and would do it again. The noise reduction is appreciated. This all was done within the past week...so no long term supporting data. Hope to send photos soon. John My only opinion on your photo is the original owner was trying to seal up dead air spaces and redirect the exhaust out the top vent.

I think we have good news. Having poured some scented grey tank cleaner in, 24 hours later we have a mild laundry-soap-scented odor in the same place. So, one way or the other, I'm pretty convinced we are getting a whiff of our grey tank. Thanks for everyone's attention and hand holding. Much appreciated. 😀

Another important lesson learned through the forum. I sure do appreciate all the questions and answers here. I'm glad that you discovered and fixed the issue before too much damage, and that you were able to fix it for a reasonable fee.

Yep, they were 80 and I believe all former owners ran this trailer at 80 PSI. Do you think that alone could cause alum welds to fail? This does make good sense! And let's say the habit was to leave home or campsite, black and gray empty, fresh and HWH full, making the right-rear heavier and that's where the welds failed!

Nice! Just goes to show that with the right polisher - even a Tundra can be made to look good! 😇- (I'm just kidding folks in case there was any doubt). Thanks for the pic, Bill Bill

It's cloudy here today, but here's the best I can capture with a smartphone:

I've been turning wrenches over 50 years, but never learned about vehicle detailing with a powered polisher. Purchased the Shurhold 3100 Dual Action Polisher. Also purchased their pads that work with this polisher. They have videos on Youtube showing how to compound, wax, and how to clean & reuse their pads. https://shurhold.com/products/worlds-best-dual-action-polisher Like Seadawg recommended, the first project was our 2003 Tacoma that we purchased new and has spent most of it's life outside in the Carolina sun. Just finished compounding and waxing the Tacoma. The Shurhold polisher works great for compounding and waxing jobs for the weekend warrior. The Tacoma looks so good, going to put new wheels on it. Going to wax our 2022 Tundra next! Then compound and wax Ollie. Glad Patriot started this thread and appreciate the information from everyone! https://shurhold.com/

Yeah, if I hadn't had a pretty significant rehab job to do, I think I would have leaned more toward a device like the one you got. As you note, the trick is to keep up with the washing and waxing so you avoid needing to buff out oxidation in the first place! I learned my lesson with the van; of course now that I'm retired I'm less prone to let that sort of job go for years on end 🙂

Having answered that question hundreds of times to people I delivered boats to over 20 years, I always said buy the one offered by Shur Hold marine products, They are light, do a great job for the weekend buffer. If you want to step up and work your arm use what the pros use Dewalt or Makota . If your hull looks good try Buff Magic by the company or 3M finesse.

UPDATE! what I learned, while plugging into the campground, the AC source was extremely unstable. We were at the end of the line and when others pulled current, our ACdropped up and down from 120 significantly and the Xantrex cycled on and off between shore power and propane (for the fridge) to compensate for the unstable power. problem solved. Thanks all for the input.

Yes, I am the culprit who accidently discovered the alternative use for switch #26. I discovered it when I read another thread about a new owner (can't remember who) was having trouble with his Xantrex charger not working shortly after delivery. Working with OTT Service, the problem ended up being that switch #26 was set to "auto on" rather than "off" and it was preventing the charger from charging the batteries since it was looking for an ignition signal (and would never get one from the Ollie obviously). I was honestly less than 24 hours from cutting a hole under the pantry to get easier access to that cutoff switch before the lightbulb went off that I could use that same software switch that caused the problem for the other owner. 🙂 A DC to DC charger won't change anything if it's an "independent" charger that doesn't go through or depend on the Xantrex in any way. There may be a slick way of hooking the TV ignition or DC to DC charger up so that it leverages the Xantrex - and then switch #26 could actually be used as intended. Cheers! John

As I mentioned the other day.. NCeagle figured this out… this was part of the thread from this past June…. It would be worth reviewing for anyone annoyed by their inverter fan noise or who, like me, wants to have a simple way of not charging their lithium batteries every time they are plugged into shore power….There is more info in that thread.. it works in Hull #685… maybe it’ll work in yours too..

Thanks for the update, Ray and Susan. We elected to go with AGMs and the 2k inverter. OTT had one trailer setup in their showroom as well as one with the big lithiums and the 3k inverter. Every time I visited the showroom, 4 times now, I couldn't get comfortable with the fan noise coming from the 3k. The AGM setup with the 2k inverter was quiet so we elected to go with AGM. To be fair the lithiums were in bulk mode and the 2k was in float so the 2k may very well make as much noise in bulk mode. I'm hoping for quiet as the 2k charges with less amps, 100 vs 150 I believe. We finalize the order next week and pick up in January so I'll post back with my experiences. John

Removal and replacement went well. The biggest problem was the removal and mounting, as the screws were difficult to reach. We dropped two while reinstalling, but were able to retrieve them. The new inverter is working as it should - charging when on shore power, transferring from grid to battery mode, and powering up on 12v. There is with no problem with communication between the inverter and the remote panel. I tested the outlets and all are supplying inverted and AC power. I did have to program the inverter for lithium batteries, as it came with default settings, which are for flooded batteries. Oliver gave us the settings, which are easy to change. I haven't had the opportunity to compare the new inverter to the old, in regards to fan noise, though I suspect it will be the same. According to the Xantrex manual and Jason at Oliver, the fan cycling is normal; the fact that the inverter is basically installed inside a drum most likely amplifies the noise level. The only work-around I have found to this annoyance while sleeping is to disconnect shore power at night as it seems the fan cycling on and off coincides with the charging function. Also, possibly when there is a high electrical load, though we haven't tested that theory yet. With the lithium/solar pkg, we can go the night without shore power and only lose a tenth or two of battery charge, assuming the AC or other high draw appliances (such as an electric space heater) are not being used.

Our Xantrex 3000 inverter does the fan kicking on every 15 min or so, like the OP reports, running for a few minutes when hooked to shore power. I asked Jason if this is normal and he says it is. Whether the noise level is as high as yours, I can't say. It isn't bad, but annoying, especially after we settle in for the night. I've thought about unplugging shore power at night. That being said, we have a new Xantrex 3000 waiting to be installed. The original inverter that was part of the Lithium Pro Pkg would not communicate with the remote panel (consistently). An attempted firmware update did not fix the problem; thus, Xantrex decided the inverter had a bad communication board. Oliver sent us a replacement which Jason will walk us through installing so we can be fully functional, in regards to power. We'll see if the new inverter fan does the same.

Just turn on the Dometic Penguin a/c. You won’t hear anything, including an oncoming tornado. Sorry, couldn’t resist 😉