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Perhaps you've been hanging around with the lower class of cows?😬

Agree with Patriot. The keypad works well. Order the silicon cover. The original will show wear on the numbers you use. It will eventually crack. Not sure why they do not just come with the silicone. If you do have issues RVlock has good customer service. They come with a fob but we never use it. Carry the key with you just in case as a backup. Change or test the batteries yearly. This did not happen to me. But passing on a story. Lock quit working. The trailer key was in the glove box of the tow vehicle. Tow vehicle was locked. Fob for the TV was in the trailer! They were able to get into the trailer by crawling in through the basement. It was not easy because you have to push up on the basement cover which has a heavy mattress and bedding on top of it while laying on your back. Apparently a very good workout testing both strength and flexibility. Two lessons were passed on to me. Carry your truck key with you even if you are just walking around the campground. And if you work on the lock, like replacing the key pad, double check the connector. There is a plastic connector between the keypad and lock mechanism. Make sure it clicks in securely.

Sorry GJ, my post was poorly written. I meant that the original white ones were very soiled. The new black ones have no sign of mold/mildew. About 9 months now, still look new though very little grows in Arizona sun, and mine is parked outdoors. I don't believe black rubber needs any treatment. For city cruisin' you could trick them out with some tire shine! 🤣

I'm sure it doesn't draw much but if you have the composting toilet it has a small exhaust fan that is constantly running. It's easy to just unplug it. Again, probably doesn't draw much but I also wondered if I had some sort of very minor parasitic draw but realized I didn't once I shut this fan off. The above probably represents the complete extent of my electrical knowledge 😄

UPDATE: Jason followed up and asked if the trailer was still plugged into the 7-pin. Yep. Only here for 2 nights so we kept connected There is a safety thing that results in the awning automatically retracting so you don't drive off with it out The "Fire Drill is over"🙃

Same here - indicated inspection was completed by "SELF".... Mailed, one and done for Hull #226.

We received the recall notice today, and inspected our 7000# bulldog hitch/coupler. Then completed and mailed the enclosed coupler recall short form to Oliver stating that our bulldog coupler is stamped 7000# and Hull #634 XPLOR is in compliance. Done! ✅ Onward!

High falls at Grand Portage State Park Grand Marais harbor

I'm getting only -0.25A with the Xantrex 2000 OFF and breaker ON and -0.80A with the exterior courtesy lights on. I do not care since ours is never winter stored. If the Lithionics app shows total +/- Amps then the batteries have a built-in shunt. I installed a shunt since I have lead acid the only way to read SOC is via a Blue Sky panel mounted at knee height under the pantry. Clicking through the menus to get other data is also painful. We will be migrating to more Victron products over time. When I upgrade to a Victron 3000W inverter the shunt VE port will be plug and play. When I upgrade to lifepo4, we will go with Epoch without paying extra for an internal comms. I can read this display while sitting in my living room about 70 FT away. This is a screenshot today, 9AM on a hazy morning. Only +0.62A is being added by the Blue Sky solar charger since the batteries are full and do not need additional charge. Certainly worth $40 and the time it took to build a shorty battery cable.

We don't have an Elite II but I went out to check on the unit that we have on our 2023 #1403 Elite and found that our trailer is equipped with a 2" ball 7000# coupler.

@NomadLife Hey KJ, Here you go. We have had this installed 4 years and are very happy with it. It has a manual key lock for both the handle and dead bolt. Absolutely no issues and very handy if you just want to use the key pad while camped. Naturally you will need to change batteries out once a year. It will let you know that through a lower beeping tone that your bats are getting low. We have never had a problem with our RV lock and the install took about 15 minutes tops taking my time. Pro tip - We also replaced our key pad with the silicone pad. They run sales often. https://www.rvlock.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid&utm_campaign=1748190371&utm_content=69572607838&utm_term=rvlock compact&gadid=392517272318&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9vqyBhCKARIsAIIcLMGRkbWSRFcRLVHYMe9o6_qj19LLEKcw6kNk9rEErXwBIBWwKcBZSOAaAuDZEALw_wcB We purchased this one - I would still double check with RV lock to ensure your ordering the correct lock for fitment. https://www.rvlock.com/products/rvlock-v4-0-w-integrated-keypad-for-rvs

You may want to plan a night or two in Ely, MN. There are some nice campgrounds around there and you can always visit the Wolf Center and the Bear Center. The Soudan Underground Mine tour will take you about a 1/2 mile down for a unique tour. You may want to stop in Duluth and tour the lake freighter, the William A. Irvin. We usually take our out of town guests there and they love it. Some awesome state parks for hiking are along the way up the shore. Happy to answer any questions you may have since it's our home turf. Lots of other great ideas already given as well.

If you stay at the campground in Grand Marais drive to the end of the Gunflint Trail and back.

Long ago when I had boats, I'd run the hole saw backwards to cut through the gelcoat, then forward though the fiberglass. This almost always eliminating chipping.

Twice a year, prior to turning my ‘COW’ out to pasture, the COW Barn gets a good cleaning, aside from the frequent use of a leaf blower throughout the year, as necessary. Although fortunate to be able to stow indoors, pests must be kept at bay; specifically insects and spiders. It has been my practice to clean and treat using diatomaceous earth (DE), rather than harmful chemical pesticide and insecticide formulations on a more frequent basis. The proper DE for this use is food grade, not the type used in swimming pool filter systems. Here is the simple, but very effective process: The floor is swept clean with a push broom. At the time of this cleaning, previously applied DE is mostly piled along the walls as an intrusion barrier. Any critters crawling over is destined for death! The old DE is swept to a pile for disposal. A bulb applicator and bag of DE are readied. A scoop is used the fill the bulb. A liberal amount of DE is broadcast on the floor. It’s seemingly a lot, but this initial coverage will be swept to the side walls when the ‘COW’ comes home for prolonged effectiveness. When about three-quarters done, my equipment carts are rolled in and the remainder of the floor is treated. The COW Barn is then closed up for the duration of our trip. Prior to herding the ‘COW’ back into the Barn, the push broom is used to sweep the DE to the walls where is continues to effectively kill targeted pests. Since DE is commonly used to treat pests on outdoor plants, one could dust under and around their OTT sitting outside to reap benefit.

I'm thinking the black option actually looks a bit better than even new white ones...

Most cows prefer a dirt floor! 🤣

I like how you think!!!!!!! 👍

We're north of 35k miles with zero issues - if we make it to 75k we might be good. The spread sheet showed very few failures in the higher mileage range. The engine/drivetrain warranty is 100k, it would be nice to get a new motor at about 99k! HA!

We had OTT install the RV Lock on Eggcelsior. It's ok, but the first one failed after water got into it due to an install error by OTT. Before our Oliver we had this lock on two trailers: LATCH.IT Keyless Door Lock for RV Sealed Electricals Unlike Competitors! | Fits 2.75"x3.75" Lock Hole https://a.co/d/1lhYkU0 I think the LATCH.IT lock was superior to the RV Lock installed by Oliver, with a better build quality. Both are easy installs.

Thank you brother!

The Lithionics 130Ah batteries have a built-in battery management system with Bluetooth capability, plus they provide an app that can be used to monitor the individual batteries. You can see the state of charge as a percentage (Lithionics recommends against using this number alone), or you can look at each battery's voltage. I have found this to be adequate regarding battery monitoring. I have no experience with the SmartShunt, so could someone who has installed one with the Lithionics batteries please chime in here? I am also unfamiliar with Battleborn's management system, so perhaps Geronimo John could describe his reasoning for the shunt. The Lithionics batteries can be individually shut off. Can you say why you chose to leave them on? The solar panels can also be shut off.

The issue could just be parasitic losses. But I seriously doubt it. But to stop them entirely is impossible if you are connected. If we can not visit our trailers often when stored, what most of us do is to install a battery cutoff switch. The BlueSeas 350-amp one is the choice many of us recommend and use. John Davies went the extra 20 miles to try to eliminate all of his. Hegot close, but failed to get to near zero. That said 3% a day is not parasitic. That's a load. I would turn off and pull every fuse in the trailer. It should take you WAY down, but not all the way to zero. I store my Ollie for 8.5 to 9 months a year during all the cold months. During those months, many on a mountain in Oklahoma, my litho's will lose about 10% SOC. Certainly not 3% a day or even a month. Then install several at a time to help you narrow down the circuit(s) "leaking" power. This will be visible on your Shunt. I also recommend a clamp on amp meter as Mr. Davies suggested. The Shunt will tell you how much, but it will not always tell you where. The amp meter is a great tool to figure that out. Battleborn has specific protocols depending upon your storage situation. So call you MFG of your lithos. But if they say kill the flow , see above. I hope this helps. GJ

I have new AGM batteries and I keep my Ollie covered the nine months it's not in use here in Florida. Last fall I had what can only be described as a parasitic drain on the batteries. I first trouble-shot the problem thinking there was something wrong with the electrical system, the different fuses, inverter, and on and on. After disconnecting the batteries and charging them up separately I decided the cheap battery disconnect my electrician installed was causing the most trouble with its corrosion and basic uselessness. The batteries did take a full charge and then kept it even when the temperatures turned cold this winter. Now I know that keeping the batteries disconnected completely from the system is key when the solar panels aren't fully charging them due to the trailer cover and the shore power stays disconnected as well. Plus I don't trust the occasional charge from the 30 amp shore power I was accustomed to doing. The solar console takes some parasitic juice as does the radio, not to mention the carbon monoxide alarm and my composting toilet fan. Of course, I am a DIY dummy and work hard at figuring things out for myself. But my hunch is you need to fully charge your batteries and totally disconnect them when the trailer is not in use. And installing one of those cheap battery disconnects is not the answer either. Completely unhooking the battery cables from the batteries is the way to go. But what do I know? Good luck. Hope I was of some assistance though there are plenty more informed people here than I am.

Thanks for all the info! We do have a reservation at Split Rock Lighthouse in the Shipwreck Campground for part of our stay and it looks like a good one. I'll look into some of the other places you mentioned. I've already ordered us some of those attractive head net mosquito hats, haha. 😉

Split Rock Lighthouse (two harbors, near duluth) haven't stayed there yet, but the new Shipwreck campground gets rave reviews. Great trails and lots to do, see, and eat around Split Rock, Two Harbors, and of course, Duluth. Grand Marais is about as close to Canada as you'll get on the shore. Great community. My brother's in-laws live there in summers. Campground is big, right on the lake. Artsy little community, great folk school. Don't miss the big Ben Franklin. It's way more than the old dime stores of yore. Even and Oles pizza. Good walleye fish fry in any number of spots. Come back a different route. Visit Leech Lake, Bemidji, maybe gooseberry falls, Brainerd. Little Brainerd booms in summer and also winter ice fishing season. They even have a nice (smaller) Costco. Nearby Crosby is a biicyclists paradise, and a busy little town. I enjoy poking around Nisswa too. No shortage of good food in the Brainerd area. Avoid, if you can, going through the twin cities (Minneapolis/St. Paul.) I35 is old, and congested. I often go up through Wisconsin, but then, I have family there, too. Have a great time. Take lots of long sleeves and long pants lightweight. Minnesota mosquitos are the unofficial state bird.

I received an MSDS from Truma. For those who are interested, see Paragraph 13 on page 7 of the English language version. I think I’ll dump it in my gravel driveway rather than put it in my septic system. truma-watersystems-aquago-decalcification-tablets.pdf

Assuming the video is spot on, with main bearing assemblies cast into the block, the likely fix will be engine replacements. 100,000 replacement engines cost alone will be well over a billion dollars. That's based on 100,000 engines at $10K replacement cost. But to amass that number of engines and teams to replace them will not be a short term effort. I have very high regard for Toyota and the fact that they have "Rogered Up" to the problem. I also know that they will fix it, and when it is, the owners will be very happy with their TV's. GJ

Agree, hope they resolve this quickly. I'm not getting into manufacturer's names, but during 2021 purchased a new pickup and it stayed in the dealership shop during 2021 over 30 days during one time waiting to be fixed correctly. Next vehicle purchased was this 2022 Tundra. Had 4 recalls on the Tundra so far.

Crazy Horse is getting up in years and is misplacing his hair. So he has to take care of the floors daily.

Fabio Holstein

Part 2/2 Did as much as I could today (waiting on more 4 awg wire.) All I have to do is pull the wire and hook it up. Did have to remove a small area of propane shroud to fit gland securely. Did not have to remove BR shelf (at least it was easy to fish some fiberglass wire.) Blue Seas gland is well designed, no need for sealant. Clean and easy. Almost bought the @Ronbrink double gland, very nice install. Orion DC-DC 50 amp charger is very light weight and has small footprint. Much less heat production, no heat sink needed. Best, Mike Test fit the wires.

Moo!

The hull passthrough was the most challenging part of my DC-DC install. I used this double cable gland to ensure a waterproof installation. Here’s a couple of views.

Just returned from a trip to Michigan (not towing) through West Virginia and Ohio with over 1400 miles and the pickup got over 24MPG. Read every post I could find on a Tundra forum today, confident Toyota will solve the issue.

I said the same thing. WOW. thanks for the suggestions. Parks On The Air (POTA) is fun ham radio activity. Hole in the wall will keep the bugs out, maybe. I used Forster bits for woodworking. Diamond blade also seems sensible. I actually took the trailer to a mechanic for an electrical issue. He has been in the trailer business for more than 30 years, and said that this was the first Ollie has had seen, and that it is the best made plastic trailer he has ever seen. I want to keep it that way. john NS6X

Here's a clean install for your SO-239 and ground connection for your rig on the interior wall... FYI, we always use a spring punch on the gelcoat prior to any drill bit action:

Another option, and one that I prefer to traditional saw toothed hole saws, are diamond grit hole saws. The hole is much cleaner and smoother, there is no chipping of the gelcoat, you have much more control with the cut, and no drama of worrying about the holesaw catching an edge and torquing your hand off or marring your work piece...especially on the larger holes. 5/8" will not be a worry with that here. 5/8" is pretty small, these probably won't have a pilot drill, but you can still use them effectively with the proper technique, or using a template as a guide. If you are set up to use Lenox hole saws and have the mandrel for it (and 7/8" isn't too big) I'd consider this: https://www.amazon.com/DG-HOLESAW-14DG-22-2MM-PK/dp/B002QMK8VQ/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=Ou7U8&content-id=amzn1.sym.a725c7b8-b047-4210-9584-5391d2d91b93%3Aamzn1.symc.d10b1e54-47e4-4b2a-b42d-92fe6ebbe579&pf_rd_p=a725c7b8-b047-4210-9584-5391d2d91b93&pf_rd_r=EGJYD83A35XQGWK1X3ST&pd_rd_wg=HMKiX&pd_rd_r=ea23425b-78dc-49b7-9ce2-921c2afd6922&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&th=1 Otherwise, I'd still get a 5/8" diamond grit (Bosch makes great smaller bits) without the pilot bit. Use water from a spritzer when drilling! Dave

And, start with small, sharp bit at low speed. Expand.

You know my feelings on the Oliver light. Permanent solution is remove, rebed with butyl, and add mechanical fasteners/ screws. Butyl is a wonderful, pretty much permanent sealant, but not an adhesive. That said, loctite marine sealant, fast cure is what we've been using as a polyether flexible sealant adhesive for a number of years, ollie and boat. No yellowing in Florida sun (yet.) Polyethers play well with fiberglass, wood, and plastics. Def no to 5200. Either of the 3m 4000 or 4200 are difficult to remove, later, imo, though 4000 has better uv resistance, so I've read. Pick your poison. And, add an eyebrow of rv Eze gutter over the light, as a bonus. The loctite product is "reasonable" at about $17 at lowes or Depot. Do read the date code. It's sometimes out of date at big box stores, and then it's tough to work, and useless.

Tape the surface to be cut or drilled

I like using a fine tooth circular hole saw. Cut softly into the fiberglass to slowly penetrate. GJ.

Some zerks are 1/4-28 UNF tapered thread, but they fit a straight 1/4-28 tapped hole. Others I've seen lately are metric M6. Do not drive the bolts from the shackle straps that have two pressed in. If you do, you will have to remove the zerks and place the bolts back into the shackle straps and drive them in with a large sledgehammer until the knurls under the head completely seat. Do not attempt to pull them home with the wet bolt nuts. You will ruin both the wet bolt and the nut.

And now with the same shower mixer as Mountainoliver... Mountainoliver, the check's in the mail! But... I don't know how to get anything delivered by the post office these days. 😉 So glad I didn't have to rip the caddy out again - sure made this addition easy!

Seeing the shower head changes reminded me that when I ordered our trailer I wasn’t real fond of the shower arrangement so had Oliver make a modification for me. I liked the idea of being able to select the shower head that I wanted and be able to replace it whenever. I used Shurflo brand “Trinidad” model shower diverter valve. Both bath/kitchen faucets are the same design for fewer parts inventory and are the Shurflo “Trinidad” type as well.

Oliver told me to put panty hose over the vents..I found some QUEEN size white panty hose and cut the panty out and they fit pretty good..cheap fix. Take them off before turning the refrigerator on.

Thanks @SeaDawg, the 026 just hit a 30-year anniversary. New carb and fuel lines, 20" bar and a tune-up 2 years ago and she screams like new. You probably know by now, calling "the guy" is a last resort for me. We had a mature American Elm at a home we had in N VA. A friend when leaving said, "Do you know your tree is splitting?" It was the kind of tree that had 2 main trunks and it was splitting right down the middle. It looked like the one side was going to break and fall. Of course, that was the side that would land on the dining room of our 2-story red brick colonial. Oh man, a tree guy would cost a small fortune on this one! I did an engineering study of height, angle, mass, and thought and looked, and thought and looked... About 10 days later, I got up the courage. We put two 24' extension ladders to get up as high as possible. Used double HD tow cables and tied the two trunks together at that height. I cut a wedge aiming down the driveway and away from the house. Then held my breath and cut the backside slowly. The trunk leaned and the cables drew tight. Then it pivoted at the cut and landed 180 from the house. Chris has the whole episode on video somewhere. It broke a couple landscape timbers is all. Got out the 100' tape and that trunk was 80+ ft! We spent the next 2 weekends cutting it up for firewood. I did have a 30HP Kubota then with a front-end loader to help! Next time the buddy came over he asked, are you going to cut down the other side. I said, I got nothing but acreage that direction. It can fall when it needs to.