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I've seen similar filter and water softener additions. Here's mine. I recently saw that James at FitRV released a single 2.5" X 10" water filter element to replace the standard 3-stage system. I've considered one of the smaller 3-stage systems as an upgrade, so I thought I'd give this a try as a less expensive alternative. Of course using one 3-stage filter instead of three separate filters is going to mean a shorter interval between replacement. But the cost difference should be negligible, and I won't have to find a place to store a 3-stage system. Here's the FitRV video and article: YouTube: https://youtu.be/t_SQNVapBEw?si=FfufAl7n4p_80Eys Web article: https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tech/our-new-rv-water-filter-the-fit-rv-3-in-1-filter/ I bought a cheap filter canister from Amazon, that arrived with horribly oversized 3/4" NPT pipe threads, and enough slop that the filter moved over 1/8" up and down. That's not going to work at all, so back it went and a GE housing was ordered. Much better! I assembled with a 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT (garden hose thread) on each end; one male-to-male, and the other male-to-female. Then I gave it a test fit on Curiosity's rear bumper. Dummy! The hoses would interfere with the trailer body and the drop down sewers cover. :facepalm: Back to Amazon for a pair of 90° 3/4" GHT male-to-female connectors. In hindsight, I should have used a 90° 3/4 NPT to 3/4 GHT set, but looking today, I couldn't find that combination. This also allowed me some flexibility in the angle of the input and output. Back when I ordered the Oliver, and spent those agonizing months waiting for delivery day, I accumulated a bunch of bits and pieces to get ready to go. (Didn't we all?) One was an adjustable water pressure regulator. I didn't realize that Oliver would supply a fixed 40 PSI inline regulator, and the inline unit was convenient to store with the Camco inline water filters I've been using. So now's the opportunity to get it off the garage shelf and put it to use! I drilled and tapped two threads into the side of the bumper support, and screwed and LocTited in two stainless screws. These are used to hang the whole contraption while in use. It'll be stored in my bucket during transport. I hope this is helpful for anyone wanting to upgrade from an inline water filter. List of components: GE Filter Housing: https://a.co/d/7cbaS28 FitRV 3-in-one filter: https://a.co/d/b0NzDt8 Camco 4' Potable Water Hose: https://a.co/d/eVeV4BJ 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT fitting: male-to-male (2-pack): https://a.co/d/5MopLFL 3/4" NPT to 3/4" GHT fitting: male-to-female 2-pack): https://a.co/d/dE1gWDC 90° 3/4" GHT Elbow: male-to-female (2-pack): https://a.co/d/24kw8xO Teflon tape for NPT threads Total cost: $133 plus tax Question: The fixed pressure regulator that came with the Oliver is 40 PSI. I've set the adjustable water pressure regulator to the same 40 PSI. What pressure do those of you with adjustable regulators use?

I’ll say yes. My trailer is outside 24/7/365 and has been since being purchased in 2017. I have washed/waxed it at least twice a year over the years and gradually the shine had disappeared. When I’d do a thorough job, it would take me four days. No telling how many times I’d move the ladder or how many times I would climb up and down it. One of the last times I washed/waxed it I fell off of the ladder, hit the rear bumper and ladder on the way down to my asphalt driveway. I was lucky enough not to break anything. Since having the trailer coated it is much easier to wash and a quick spritz of the CGI magic elixir and it shines better than new. More important than the shine is the long term protection of the gelcoat. Additionally, as everyone else has said, is the fact that the CGI guys are the finest group of guys that you’ll ever meet.

If anyone is interested in trying the Bulldog shocks, AutoZone sells them for $53.99 online only and claims to have them in stock. They state they have a Limited Lifetime Warranty (you can read it at the link provided below.) The part number is HD1214-0656. This link should get you there.

Generally, I'd agree, especially as I'm cargo capacity limited. However, we're spending two months in Florida this winter, and will be plugged in most places we stay. So saving propane by using free electricity for seven weeks is appealing to me.

I cannot deny that the Ceramic Coat work performed by CGI is top shelf. I have seen a couple Ollies with this treatment and they are spectacular. That said, my E2 lives outdoors, uncovered 24/7x365 and lasted three years with 2x/yr hand washing and waxing before it started to show signs of light oxidation. I took the dive and bought a Makita rotary buffer and a forced-rotation DA polisher and did the top half this Fall. Looks good enough for who it is for and I enjoyed the physical activity and the chance to get intimate with my trailer. This direction is subject to change as I age of course, but for now the $3k sits in my bank account.

Yesterday I installed new AIR LIFT LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Adjustable Air Springs on the Savana. I knew prior to departing for the Texas Oliver Rally that my receiver hitch was an inch shy of the recommended ball height with the trailer in tow, and that was after maxing out the pin hole height adjustment. As illustrated in the first picture of this post, the van and trailer were ‘well poised’, but once loaded with cargo for the trip there was a slight squat. Regardless, it was always my intent to install airbags for ease of adjustment in varying conditions. Today I will remove the AIR LIFT pump assembly from my former TV and reinstall on the Savana. Problem solved! As a side note, I really liked being able to inflate the airbags, via a remote, to tilt the Oliver upward when dumping the tanks and hopeful this new setup will provide like benefit. Inks Lake SP did it right with their new dump station! At some facilities however, raising the trailer’s nose is a must to fully empty the tanks. Did someone say ‘airbags’?

Steve, this is an excellent mod! I had not heard of a 3-stage in one filter and shorter filter life is fine for us who travel occasionally. I spent double building a dual filter system with Clearsource components an it’s heavy / bulky. Your build is perfect! Your water pump is likely 50 PSI or more. I installed a variable speed pump at 60 PSI. You can run anywhere in the 40-60 PSI range. PEX is rated at 100 PSI. Our older hull has built-in pressure restrictors, not regulators, which can be seen in this picture. The plumbing diagram only shows back flow preventers, but it has both inline devices on Fresh and City water inlets. They truly impede water flow and I will remove ours eventually and add an external adjustable regulator like yours. if we use the City water connection, the water flow rate is poor due to the restrictor. When we fill the Fresh Water tank, it fills slowly, but the onboard pump delivers much better pressure. Not sure if all Olivers have the internal restrictor but something to look into since whatever pressure you’re setting it reduces the flow rate (GPM) at the faucets.

I think you will be very happy that you had Alcan do the job. I know I was. Good for you on getting an appt with Lew and his team. 👍🏻

Thanks for reminding me to turn on the battery heater under my three Lithionics batteries for the winter! Our local forecast is for temps well below freezing starting tomorrow night.

It does pro-rate based on start date. Our billing cycle is on the 11th of each month. In September we started on the 15th of the month and only paid $45. But it is only pro-rated based on start as regardless of when you pause you get it through the end of the billing cycle.

@John Dorrer here is what I used. It worked perfect and only $8. https://www.harborfreight.com/finger-release-ratcheting-pvc-pipe-cutter-62588.html

I have almost always been adamantly opposed to hiring someone to do a job that I can do myself, which is virtually everything. I remember years ago I had a stopped up washing machine drain. I called a friend to ask if he had a drain snake and he brought one over to help. After monking with it for about an hour and not doing any good I suggested to him that I should just go out to a rental center and rent a powered snake. He asked what it would cost. I remember it being in the $100 dollar range for a few hours. He stated, "...or you could just call a plumber for about the same price and not have to fool with driving out to get the machine, coming home and messing around with it for another few hours and maybe still not get it open and then driving out to return the machine and still ending up having to call a plumber." I called a plumber. I always consider how long it would have taken me at work to earn enough money to pay for the job at hand. The older I've gotten the more willing I am to pay someone rather than doing it myself. I plan to die with a balance of only 5¢ in the bank. I did pay the CGI boys their fee to do my trailer when they first went into business. I've never met a finer bunch of young men. Our trailer is looking like it needs it again but aside from Hull #045, ours is the oldest Elite II still on the road. I've never waxed it even once and have usually paid to have it washed. Here again, number of hours worked vs amount paid to have the job done. I would take me several hours to wash the truck and the trailer, I pay $125 to get both done at a detail shop. No brainer for me!

We had The Swallow, #509, done in June at the Maine rally. I was a bit appalled at the price but we could see some oxydation beginning on the top and the nose even though we waxed twice a year. Our Ollie does sit uncovered in our driveway in NH so it takes a hit from the weather. I didn't mine the washing, but the waxing was hard on the arms! Anyway, after watching the CGI guys work for an entire day and a half it was clear that they earned their money. What a nice and hard-working crew! The shine is amazing but the ease of washing off the bugs and road grime, then giving it a quick "spritz" and wipe with the the ceramic spray is worth every penny. Paula

I may actually do a camo wrap so I can lose it in the woods.

Sorry to quote myself but I did re-watch this movie. Very funny... stands the test of time and shows what genius's Lucy and Desi were. Forgot about the whole "rocks" thing and Donna and I were laughing hard at that part. It was funny hearing the "tech" guy explain the brakes using magnets and shook my head realizing that we have the exact same brakes that they did in 1953. Before I was born for crying out loud! The movie is available free on TUBI. You'll have to watch some ads but not too bad. If you have not seen this movie... or not seen in it a while I strongly recommend "The Long Long Trailer" with Desi and Lucy. Scotty

There is no "Supposedly". It does as reported, tested, documented and videoed on several sites. For non-believers here is a simple demonstration procedure of the amount of moisture that their Set 2 units generate: Run the stock not modified Houghton on auto cool with the T-stat set to lowest setting. The unit will run and as it approaches set temp, the fan speed will work its way down to low. Run for a few minutes longer. The evaporator coil will be "Loaded" with condensate and you should be seeing signs of excess condensate running over the side of your trailer. Now cycle off the unit. THen turn it on to heat pump and set the temp to max temp to cause the heat pump to start. You will now feel and sense the huge amount of moisture being evaporated off the supply air coil and being dumped into the cabin as the warm heat pump air dries out the supply air coil. BTW, you can do this with any heat pump air conditioner. I estimated the amount of moisture retained in the fins of our unit to be ab0ut 25 ounces. If the fan is not cycled with the compressor, as the vast majority of ac units are designed, you can expect to see this problem. It can be amelerated somewhat by design by changing the coil face temperature and by special coatings on the coil fins and piping. But the results still will be unsatisfactory for most US mainland conditions. Hence this is one of the two problems with stock Set 2 Houghtons. My hope is that Houghton later units will be redesigned to cycle the supply air fan with the compressor, and also come with a remote thermostat. Those two changes would make the Houghton a class leader in quality and performance. GJ

Unfortunately, not since 2006. 🤨 They list the couplings under "Watering Tools" Fabrication & Packaging United States - Garden Hose (Reno, NV) China - Hose Reels & Watering Tools That's an interesting idea! 45° or 60° would have been great. I'm not sure coming in from straight down would be beneficial.

https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/products/kwik-link-connect-system-90?srsltid=AfmBOoqDmJNms7camHGuO4lzVh1ExSXi1dzYkfr0DoPzl1VMP0qVfYAE Similar quality to Eley products and they come with a cover. I have had them in use on all water connections for 6 years. Work great. They use to have one that was less than 90 degrees, worked great on the city and fresh water inlets. But I don’t see it now. I zip tied the OEM threaded cover to the rubber cover to keep it safe and out of the way. Leaving the QC on semi-permanently and then attaching QC to all your hoses makes setup and takedown much easier and quicker. 120 degree? 90 degree

"I have had zero problems with exchanging the bad shocks at O'Reilly's (lifetime guarantee...thanks Steve L) but am thinking I'll want to try another brand to see if it lasts a little longer. Still happy campers here... :)" I got a message from Lew at Alcan Springs and he was hoping that RadFlo could be the best choice for a shock, but theirs were about $200 each. I will be bringing four shocks with me of the Bulldog equivalent to the Monroe 555001 if those are available. We will have the five leaf spring replacement done in April. John

If it has a good power cord, doesn’t get hot to the touch, you’ll be good. I’ve used some old classics and usually replace the original cord with a cut-off #12 extension cord.

As if they knew we were talking about heating, Long Long Honeymoon just released THIS Video that contains some additional ideas. Bill

It really depends on how particular you are about how your ollie looks and also how you store it. I have ceramic on both my truck and my wife's car. Her car lives in the garage and still looks and washes like the day the ceramic was applied. My truck lives outdoors and the ceramic started to fail after the 2.5 year mark. If I stored my trailer indoors then the ceramic would be a no brainer but since my Oliver lives outside at a storage facility I just wash it occasionally and but and wax every 6 months. Does it look perfect, no, but the great part about gelcoat is that it can always (within reason) be brought back to life with a little effort. John

John @John Dorrer, when you install yours cut each length about 1 1/2” longer than the original piece you remove. This makes up for the shrinkage you have and the shrinkage that will occur to.the new rubber. Start at the bottom and push hard to compact the rubber to make room for the extra length. Be firm and patient. If some end up a little too long you can always cut a little off but you can’t add length. A hose cutting tool works well as it is hard to use a razor/box cutter when the piece is in place and it cuts square. https://a.co/d/gNDM9QE

I always wash/wax my vehicles and also my trailer. Then, I GOT OLD. Since hitting the 70’s my stamina isn’t what it used to be. I can still wash/wax my trailer, but what the CGI team did is a different level. 4 guys, multiple buffers, scaffolding, ladders, thorough wash, buff and then buff some more, ceramic coat, buff, ceramic coat again, buff, measure shine with some kind of shine measuring thing. It would have taken me a week to do that, then two weeks to recover! Mike

Same price as when I bought ours in black last year. I bought 17 ft, they sent 18 and I had over a foot left over. Total shipped was $99. https://www.pellandent.com/Half-Inch-Glass-Vinyl-Seal

I have always been self sufficient. Ever since I was a young man, a kid even, I would refuse to pay anyone for something I could do myself. The first job I ever tackled on my own was fixing the crank on my bicycle. I was 12. From that point on, the toys got bigger and the repairs did as well. Instead of hiring someone, I bought tools and learned how to do it. That progressed to the point that I now have a shop, $20k (probably more) worth of tools and have enough trade knowledge in my head that I can do just about anything. Is it worth it? To me it is. I have literally built houses, cabinets, plumbing, electrical work, I have rebuilt a few engines that actually worked afterwards and I have never paid anyone a penny for it. On top of that, it has built wealth for me. I will die with more money left in the bank than I can spend unless the country falls apart and the dollar tanks. But even then, I will have the knowledge and the tools to keep going. Do it all again. Until I get old and spend $3000 to get my Oliver detailed. :)

I feel the pinch too. Everything has gone up except my pay and I am still paying for two houses waiting for the bigger one to sell. Hopefully, the economy will get better after the election.

When the lid is open, fan running, and you key the OPN/CLS button it will close the lid and the fan stays running. @Mike and Carol thanks for the note of the fan blade. I will clean it when we get home. I’ll also study the wiring to see what can be done. I’m not going to carry an electric heater. We have an Atwood furnace. Prior owner wrote a service complaint re noise and had OTT replace the Suburban. The mods I made, running hard ducting the first 6 ft, eliminating the under bed duct, eliminating the dual outlets and adding a return air filter has made it even quieter! We ran our furnace for a week in the high country, mornings in the 40s. It was very quiet and it only blows in kitchen and bath. The overhead fan, even on 10%, bothers me more.

I just watched Victron's video for the BMV-712. It says the batteries need to be fully charged twice a month to allow the monitor to sync. So, I guess I just charge the things and hope it clears up 🤪

Well, curiosity got the best of me when noticing the ‘black tire marks’ at the ‘dark spots’ where road dips occur, so googled it: “Tire marks are often visible at highway dips because the sudden change in road surface causes increased friction between the tires and the pavement, leading to more pronounced marks, especially when vehicles are accelerating or braking while going over the dip, which can further amplify the tire-road contact and leave visible marks behind.”

I clean the screen and blade assembly after each trip. You figured out the screeen, the blade is held on by a single set screw that comes off easily. If we want the vent open and no fan I usually just turn the fan down all the way to 10, it hardly moves any air. The vent is pretty noisy, once we open it it stays open. We got down to 43 here last night, both vents open and Vornado heater providing quiet, even heat. Mike

There is a certain brand appeal for Redline, but I contend ANY reputable oil co that makes the red-type high-temp NLG #2 automotive wheel bearing grease will do equally well. Can be Valvoline, or Lucas, or many other brands, take your pick. I chose base on price vs. reputation. If you do not remove all the grease, clean parts with solvent (I used spent gasoline drained from my dirt bikes and yard tools), get all new grease UNDER, yes under the main gear, you are truly wasting your time. Just leave it alone or do it right, as you would be doing more harm than help. The OTT maintenance video is a joke. All he does is a visual inspection. Adding like grease on top is also doing absolutely nothing. Drives me crazy watching this! The NLG-2 grease is better than OEM. Do it as I had illustrated on page #2 of @John E Davies’s original post. I even received accolades from him which in probabilities is near wining the lottery! I pray @John is doing well! If you do it like I have demonstrated below, I promise it will last for many years, like 3+ years for full-timers and 6+ years for the rest of us. Our hull is now 9 years old. When I did this service last year, I could tell from experience, it had never been maintained in 8 years and was working fine. The ONLY thing that will damage this quality leveler jack is raising or lowering it beyond the upper (happens more often) or lower stops, which damages the drive gear attached to the motor. IMHO, those of you with Hull #s >1000, leave them alone until you have minimum 40K miles or 5+ years use, and then do it right. Show your mechanic my post and ask for like service. Or you could just look at it annually as “suggested by the manufacturer” and buy a new VIP3000 eventually. It is a great jack, will likely last 10 years if you want to forget-about-it! 🤣

John Did you replace with same brand? Or did you replace with a higher quality (if one exists) brand?

After this year's journey through 19 states, I will admit that -- as I dodged left and right around asphalt potholes and cracking concrete highways with large chunks missing -- my thoughts have wandered into the same zone mentioned by @jd1923 above. Our interstate system (and other roads) are in shambles, literally crumbling. And the conditions vary by county and state lines, changing significantly as one crosses administrative boundaries. I have followed the sage advice of many owners on the forum: keep the tire pressure on the low side, and go slowly enough to be able to dodge debris and potholes. The "BUMP" issue is impossible to dodge, so going slow in those areas with heaving swells or significant shifts in height at bridge junctures is very important. It's a wonder that the DOT seems to maintain the frequent signs reading BUMP AHEAD but doesn't (or can't?) fix the problem. I have earmarked Newfoundland on my wish list as well, and hope to go one day. Like a trip to Alaska, it will require special preparation and forethought, but I hope not to shy away from adventures due to challenges.

So many bad roads in these United States as well as Canada. For some reason today an Infrastructure Bill is passed and then monies are spent on perceived social issues. First line item re infrastructure is building roads. Hopefully .gov will spend necessary monies to replace all the roads and bridges damaged or destroyed by Helene. President Eisenhower RIP would be ashamed of his interstate system, except for in Texas and a few other states. I moved from Chicagoland (always potholes for decades) to Tidewater VA in the late 70s. Driving on I-64 back then was like floating on glass! We drive highways, back roads and dirt roads throughout the SW, roads not so good. Keep tire pressures on the low per the chart, drive slowly. It be a shame fear would keep you from this dream trip, IMHO. You have to ask what’s more important, the trip or the trailer. Yep, have a pair of replacement leaf springs.

Try a PM (private message) to Bugeyedriver here on the Forum. I know that he has spent some time in that area. Bill

Yes, and fresh in the dairy section! Chris and I were born and raised in Chicago where Bays started and didn't know of the other name brand until we traveled east. About Bays | Bays English Muffins

No chemist here ha! The customer service rep said their company would replicate the RV anti freeze odor and determine if that’s causing the detector to alarm. She said they have had several calls after people have winterized and immediately there after their CO/LP alarm sounded. I guess we will wait and see what the experts come up with. This is the second time around for me. It was interesting to hear her say they have had multiple calls this week on this exact same issue.

I throw a greeting out to whoever I saw this morning up in the texas panhandle headed north. I was on my last day of the return trip from alaska back to san antonio. This trip I've seen my first 2 "wild" Ollie's. One out on the Homer spit a couple months ago and the one today. Sorry I didn't get a chance to say hi I think it was hull 747 or 757 I don't recall but we tent camped for a night on the spit just to say we did but the wind was so brutal that night we were hunkered down.

Are yall saying the center of the remote is supposed to be some sort of display screen? Neither my current or the remote from the previous trailer showed anything in the center? I thought it was just a funky remote design.

Welcome. I hope you have enjoyed the first season of camping with it as much as we enjoyed ours!

This may be of interest to Truma a/c owners, illustrates how the SoftStartRV is installed.

In my opinion, if you are going to frequently be running ac wo shore power , the best solution would be a Generator like the Honda EU 2200 and a Truma installed soft start on your ac unit. The eu2200 is at my limit of lifting comfort. I run mine on gas, but propane would likely work as well. I don’t have a soft start on my Truma yet, but it seems like a reasonably priced option as long as the mobile tech cost to install it is not too prohibitive. I have been holding off on the soft start hoping a DIY option becomes available in the future.

@ScubaRx you beat me to it. I also suspect a painted Oliver might be easier to maintain vs the gel coat which constantly needs waxing, ceramic coatings etc. No doubt it would also cost a good sum of money to have one painted properly too.

Fiberglass can be painted beautifully. Look at the last 70 years of Corvettes. I’d have it professionally done. All three of the colored shells shown above were painted. Oliver never used a colored gel coat.

Jelly Bean Restore 2 6-2016.jfif

Thanks David, Springs are replaced, but 1 of my 2 1/2 month old Monroe shocks was blown (I replaced all 4 in July). Thanks to Scuba Rx my lifetime guaranteed shock from O'Reilly was ordered at the next stop and I replaced it...no problem).

Quartzsite is a good place to try your hand at dry camping. It was our first real boondocking experience back in Jan 2017. It’s easy enough to go into town if you need to dump or refill water. Winter weather in Q can be quite pleasant if you’re coming from colder areas. It’s been fun to meet other Oliver owners there over the years but it has also been a nice stop over all by ourselves for trips to/from California. Plus, the price is right. Joshua Tree NP isn’t far from Q and is worth a visit as is Death Valley NP. Mike

I switched from a 22" Blackstone to a Carolina Cooker griddle. Smaller footprint, easier to pack, and has a true cast iron griddle top with built in drip tray. Downside is that it doesn't have a cover so I'll have to come up with something for that. You buy the griddle and burners separate. So far, I've been really happy with it but there are a few mods I'll probably consider such as a wind screen around the base and maybe drilling a hole in the drip tray.

I lucked out when installing the High Sierra shower head several years ago, happened to have a Kohler adapter that mated the stock hose to this upgraded handle. In ordering, don’t get too hung up on which flow restricter to choose (go high), the push button control valve can easily be used to reduce flow, as desired. The button is great for Navy showers, no more having to use the sink valve to regulate water flow and temperature; the button’s trickle feature keeps the water temp constant so no more waste of water having to reset, thus less volume in gray tank. As a sink faucet, I use the button to allow a reduced stream of water rather than full flow when the valve is opened, further saving water and tank volume. This product is a jewel of an upgrade, get one!