Leaderboard

You are correct. Here is a bit of context as to the problem and how to reset the check valve without a lot of fuss: DIY - Check Valves for RV Water Pumps.docx It worked for me on SOB trailer. GJ

We struggled with the same question when we bought our Elite II in 2022. We ultimately chose to stick with the Gen. 2 (2019) Tundra 4.7L Double Cab we already owned. We have towed our 2022 Elite II with that 2019 Tundra with the 4.7L engine, a transmission oil cooler and an Andersen weight distribution hitch, without trouble. We live in Idaho, and have towed it over mountain passes in the Pacific Northwest many times. I know that some on this forum will disagree, but my experience is that at least Gen. 2 Tundras are not true "1/2 ton" pickups. They fall somewhere between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton pickups offered by their competitors, and so are up to the task of towing an Elite II with an Andersen WD hitch. Your Gen. 1 Tundra may be different. Your specific door sticker controls over the more generic owners manual. The door sticker on our Tundra also reads 1421 lbs. payload capacity. We initially towed our Elite II from Hohenwald to central Idaho without airbags. The addition of airbags helped reduce jounce, so I would recommend them. We have not upgraded the already substantial 4-wheel disc brakes on the Tundra, yet with the gain properly set on the brake controller, the Elite II braking system has enabled us to safely make a couple of panic stops (such as for a deer in the road) without incident.

I've been shacked up in my trailer working remotely in south Texas for over two weeks now. I have a much larger floor model that I use to control the humidity, and it works like a charm, bringing the RH from 80+ to a nice crisp 45%. I am very sensitive to mold, so this is essential for me. I have also been running the AC constantly because the outside temperature is between 80 and 95 throughout the day. I bought the Pro Breeze at Wal-Mart and gave it a 6 hour try. It removed about an ounce and the humidity rose from 45 to 78 even with the AC on. Basically useless. I returned it. As far as fresh air? I don't care about that. I have a HEPA filter running and I'm not feeling any side effects, so I'm good. I will likely try the one mentioned by @Ollie-Haus when I get a chance to order it, since the floor unit takes up half the bathroom floor. Hopefully, it will handle Texas humidity.

If the above doesn’t work, here’s what I used: Check valve

Does the leak increase frequency if the water pump is turned on? If your backflow valve is not functioning 100% it could be letting fresh water flow back and drip from the fresh water inlet. I had to replace the fresh water backflow valve because I had similar symptoms. Mike

We already have most of our campground reservations (based on previous visits car camping). We also have a bunch of the now-required reservations for hiking and buses in CA (Lake Louise, etc.) Just wondering if anyone has recent info on conditions or suggestions for Badlands NP (dry site) 8/17-21 Bismark restock 8/22 Theodore Roosevelt NP (dry site) 8/23-27 Great Falls restock 8/28 Glacier NP Two Medicine (dry site) 8/29-9/1 East Glacier KOA (hookups) 9/2-9/15 Waterton (hookups) 9/16-22 Tunnel Mountain, Banff (hookups) 9/23-10/6 Whistler, Jasper (hookups) 10/7-13 All weather permitting, of course. If winter starts we plan to donate our reservations and head south. 🤪 We have a few family visits the set the course outbound, but no fixed return plans. Again, depending on weather, we may just make a bee line for FL or try our luck heading East on the trans canada highway. Both are VERY long, but we got nothing but time 😁

If I had been able to buy the Oliver without any awnings (or, more properly, "sun shades"), I would have. ☹️

I used to own the 04 version of your exact same Tundra, it struggled to tow our T@b back in those days. I'm not making this up. If memory serves me correct dry weight for the T@b was around 1600 lbs. With that in mind not in my wildest imagination would I think about towing the LE2 with this truck. The transmission alone would be woefully lacking from what I recall. Good luck with your decision on this.

I have a slightly damaged one and appreciate the source. Mine is a PLASTIC fixture coated with fake chrome. It certainly is not worth $44 in my minds eye. Guess I'll use s small dab of JB weld on the screw hole and re-drill it. At the Rally I asked Jason about the black gaskets. He indicated they remove the gasket and silicone the fixture on 3 1/2 sides. Leaving a weep at the bottom.

Simple answer, NO. When we purchased our Oliver EII two years ago, I was hoping to pull it with our ‘08 Lexus GX470. So, same engine with some frame differences and ours has completely rebuilt Eibach suspension, new springs shocks, CV axles, everything. I installed a Redarc brake controller and this GX has the tow package. I pulled the Oliver around town. The Oliver was tossing the rear of the GX left and right, up and down, btw with the Andersen WDH attached. Came home and I looked at Chris, “Honey, we need to buy a truck.” She nodded, yes in agreement. Several owners do this, that or the other to make their half-ton truck or even an SUV work. Do yourself a favor and get a 3/4 ton truck with long bed so you can carry what you need now and through the years. Our Oliver was 6400 LBS first camp out, thinking we must be a couple hundred more today. Our truck has 8,800 LB GVWR. BTW, when I did my test drive, third row seats in the GX were removed, rear cargo area empty. The Oliver was also pretty much empty, fridge closet cabinets pantry, were all empty. It’s better to feel you have AMPLE capacity, not close to advertised limits. Sorry.

I added second switch for the street side porch lights because they were a blinding annoyance for neighbors when the curb side lights were on. I posted this modification in a post called "How to add a second switch for street side porch lights -finally." https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10499-how-to-add-a-second-switch-for-street-side-porch-lights-finally/ Cheers! Geoff

I like the sliders on our 2022 LE2. We have a little over 500 miles on the new Alcan springs and I had a couple times that the shade frame loosened up on the bottom and one time where the dinette frame popped off completely on Colorado roads. Another owner who got the Alcan springs said they settled in after 500 miles. That was my experience too. We had some doozies of bumps today from Utah to Oregon and no issues with the shade frames. Another thing that I noticed is that when a semi passed us, the trailer isn't as affected by it as before. We had some intense wind guests today and it tracked great. John

Updated post to include Ollie’s info. This is our second Oliver, just can’t make up our mind. Thanks for the info

This is a duplicate of a post I made on the Facebook Oliver owner’s page. I’m sharing here for those not on Facebook that may be interested in a dehumidifier option for their Oliver. We were experiencing rainy and cool weather at the rally and conditions in the Olivers were getting steamy. Facebook post: Temperature and humidity outside at Lake Guntersville state park are 62deg and 94% humidity this morning. Inside OllieHaus it’s a perfect 73 deg and thanks to our counter top dehumidifier, it’s a very comfortable 46% humidity with all windows closed. No heat or AC needed. Loving life in our Oliver!! Edit: Here’s a link on Amazon for the dehumidifier if interested: Dehumidifier

Awning brand?

Lucky you, sure wish we had a manual awning! Oliver should make that an option.

Nice Itinerary . I sure wouldn't pull out if it snows. Enjoy the White Stuff. You have the trailer for it 😊

We were just at TRNP in April! Lots of Bison about, sometimes walking right down the middle of the road. Saw a few pronghorn, lots of prairie dogs, and a lone coyote looking for a late lunch in an active prairie dog village. In addition to the South Unit and the North Unit, we also visited Teddy Roosevelt's Elkhorn Ranch site. To get there you need to follow about 30 miles of gravel road (we didn't take the trailer!) and an easy flat 3/4 mile hike to get to the ranch site. The rangers seem to be pretty cautious about sending folks out over all that gravel road, but it seemed pretty solid to us. There were only a couple of spots that might be challenging if there was a lot of rain. There's not much remaining there other than a few foundation stones, and a couple of historic plaques, but you do get to see the view that TR saw during his time there along the Little Missouri River, and you can say "I stood where Teddy Roosevelt stood" 🙂 They're working on building TR's presidential library in Medora, but I don't think its supposed to be finished until next year. There's lots of TR history in David McCullough's "Mornings on Horseback" if that's your thing. The visitor center also had "Theodore Roosevelt and the Dakota Badlands" (Chester L Brooks & Ray H Mattison) which is a short, easy read about TR's time in the Dickinson & Medora area. Its likely available elsewhere as well. If you are into museums and have the time, there are a few in the area with lots of info/displays on dinosaurs (which were apparently abundant in the area), cowboys and native americans of that time and place: Bismark ND: https://statemuseum.nd.gov/ Dickinson ND: https://www.dickinsongov.com/museum-center Medora ND: https://medora.com/cowboyhalloffame/ (lots of rodeo stuff, but also other cowboy and native american info) We do have Glacier on our list, but haven't been there yet...

I suspect your AC is creating the high humidity and the Pro Breeze just couldn’t keep up with it, whereby the larger floor model is much more efficient and beneficial given your situation and weather conditions. Humidity spikes are inherent to the AC’s continuous fan ON when the compressor cycles OFF and thus, moisture evaporates from the coil fins and the water vapor is returned to the cabin as humidity.

Have you added more fresh water to the tank since you noticed the drip? If you suspect that the fresh water inlet check valve located under the basement floor is not seating you might try adding fresh water to see if it flushes out debris before you replace the check valve.

I do the same thing. John

The leak is visible from the outside only and the hose is NOT connected. I'm not trying to fill or anything actually..the tank was full. I just noticed it dripping when I was walking around the trailer.

Hitch Rattle: As stated above, the noise is the receiver slop at this connection. I do not notice it with our rig and the Anderson in play. However I like it as when I am using my front jack to hook up/take off the Anderson chains, I use the front jack to raise the back the truck a bit. I observe as the Anderson receiver moves up in the stationary TV hitch. When this angle stops changing, this tells me that I have "erased" the tongue weight off the TV, and I am now lifting the truck. Not something I want to do too much; as at some point I would damage the Jack. So, I consider the sloppy fit as a visual safety warning for my jack's long life. GJ

@csevel is the leak/drip visible from the outside or the inside? Hose connected or not? Are you trying the fill the fresh water tank? Mossey

The trailer dry weight posted online is for a fully stripped down LE2 with no options. As delivered, ours actually weighed 5565 pounds. That's still without water and gear. Also, subtract the weight of any passengers and any cargo in your truck from the Tundra's tow rating. You'll probably be over the limit when set up to camp. I wouldn't do it, personally, and I'm positive you wouldn't enjoy it if you were towing in the mountains. I've towed trailers on the edge of my truck's limit before. It struggled on step grades and I eventually had to replace the torque converter.

This is a good start providing us some specs of your truck! Based on that you will be able to tow it, but what is the cargo/payload capacity of your truck? Cargo/payload capacity is the maximum weight your truck can carry, this includes passengers, cargo and the tongue weight of the trailer. Sometimes a full fuel tank is included in the cargo/payload capacity, not sure on your tundra. Look inside your driver side door jam, there should be a sticker with the cargo/payload capacity, should look something like this.. You will probably run out of cargo capacity before towing capacity with your truck. We had a VW Touareg TDI with 7600lbs towing capacity and 1200lbs cargo capacity. It towed like a champ but we ran out of cargo capacity. For example the cargo capacity from the above picture is 1390lbs, so minus tongue weight of an Oliver (mine is 700lbs ish), now you’re left with 690lbs for passengers and cargo. **FYI, our Ollie fully loaded (we’re full timers) is 6380lbs

Our older Ollies have absorption based refrigerator systems. They have an open flame burner that drives the refrigeration process. If the system has a combustion issue, it will generate CO. If you have critters flying into the cabin via the refer vents, your box is no longer sealed properly. That could for sure put you and others at risk. Seriously recommend you: Replace your CO/Propane Detector if there is any doubt about it's age or in our case with these type of refrigerators if the detector is over 4 years old. Reseal the combustion area from the cabin area. Most of us use Foil Tape. Buy 3M foil tape. GJ

To finish up my post ... I did replace the the VIP 3000 with a new VIP 3000 from Barker. I would have gone with the 3500 but it has a 2 1/2 inch diameter and the 3000 has a 2 inch diameter. The Oliver has 2 thick aluminum plates with 2 inch holes and so the 3500 won't fit unless you enlarge those 2 inch holes to 2 1/2. I didn't have the tools or knowhow to tackle that job. The new jack works fine and I'm a happy camper again. Kudos to Barker as they gave me $50 off the price in spite of being out of warranty. John

Quick Update: I received a reply email from Barker Manufacturing and then spoke on the phone in response to my email to them that included photos. They are going to send me a new tube sleeve with the proper weld at no charge. I will need to take the existing jack out and loosen the three set screws on the head. I'm told this will allow me to replace the steel tube (where the bracket is welded) on the existing jack and then reinstall so that it will be at the proper height. Happy that a resolution/fix is now hopefully in process...

You bet Jd, just passing it forward. I look forward to seeing how your mod turns out. I know it will be first class! 👍🏻😊

I assume that you have filed a Service "ticket" regarding this issue? There have been a number of occasions in the past where these "rubber strips" have shifted from their original location. Unfortunately, I'm not aware of exactly what was done to correct each situation. And, to my knowledge, there has only been ONE Oliver that was ever actually removed from its original frame to be have that frame replaced. Therefore, Service should be asked how to proceed in getting this "rubber strip" back to where it belongs and what can be done to keep it there. Bill

You can get smooth white Kytex sheet from McMaster Carr and cut it and bend it with a heat gun and some wood blocks into a Z shape and attach to the side of the fiberglass with clear double sided silicone tape. I did this to the curb lights on our Oliver to redirect the curb lights straight down. For that I used some extruded aluminum Z channel, cut to 5" long, painted white and attached with the same double sided tape. I couldn't find aluminum Z channel big enough for the porch lights. The attached pictures illustrate the concept. Kydex: https://www.mcmaster.com/8650K12-8650K123/ Aluminum "Z": https://www.mcmaster.com/7062T32-7062T323/

I would think that one could source some thin pliable plastic material (or even a thin metal) that could be hand formed to cover the top then project out and down past a point on the lense that would more efficiently direct the light down toward the ground rather than being directed outward. Maybe a 'shield' of sorts that would encompass the entire light and be mounted behind the light could be 3D printed. Just a thought.

As you already know - yes, they are dimmable. I know that for certain since I've got a dimmer on mine and have had it for the past 9 years. I keep telling myself that one day I'm going to change the way I wired it - I used the main feed that controls ALL of the lights. That means - if I dim one light, they all dim. Usually this is OK but there are those times when I'd prefer to just dim the exterior or the interior or the ..... Bill

This one looks pretty close if not the exact one. ITC -is- one of the suppliers Oliver uses. I purchased table pedestal caps from them, as well as two additional pedestal mounts. I figured I could use them to make a base for the table to use it outside. (Never did) Since people are talking about the porch lights - those things are DAMN bright! I’d like to dim them or even install additional switches to enable me to turn on just one or two of them to avoid ruining everyone’s night vision. (Same with the killer-bright courtesy lights.) guess I’ll check that link to see if it says they’re dimmable or not. (Listing says they are dimmable. Guess that’s a new project.)

You need to return to your profile information and fill in all the details about your Oliver. Just saying you own one does not provide us with enough information to assist you.

They told me that they solved the problem by just leaving the black gaskets out. I removed all of mine and it solved the problem with the streaks.

Not sure this is an exact replica of the Oliver porch light, but it appears pretty close. https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?

Remember the black streaks that came from the black gaskets drying out. And the solution was to paint them with Capt. Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. Took a while to get Oliver to even look for another material but they finally did it. Scotty

On the screen door. I will take a photo of it next time I go out to the trailer. Also, when in Alaska we asked the locals what was the best way to get ride of the mosquitos once they get into the trailer as they are extremely hard to "get" with all the curved surfaces in our trailers. Answer we got and we have since proved it works great is "Windex spray bottle on mist. Knocks them right out of the air and it smells good at the same time". Also, helps keep the trailer all nice and shiny inside when we wipe it clean. LOL.

Yes, I have noticed that all the screen doors on the Oliver trailers (many different year models) do not match the curve in the fiberglass. This is what I used when going to Alaska to keep the mosquitos out. https://a.co/d/7h8kzG5 It is weather stripping (furry stuff that is on the screen door from factory). I just put some on the opposite surface where it does not meet. Worked well and still on the trailer 2 years later.

If you have the property, that’s a great option. Since we’re all but full-time, we have no property. We opted for indoor storage to keep not only the sun and birds, but the millions of mud-home-building insects out of every nook and cranny. Pricey - but worth the cost!

OK, we love you guys. Our old 10-year-old hull #113 looks better, pasty white only when cleaned, rarely every washed, let alone waxed, LOL (get a pressure washer)! 🤣

Upon further review- While the Amazon site doesn't show any certifications, I decided to check the ETL website and the Airplus *is* ETL certified! No idea why they wouldn't include that in their specs... I hereby remove my red flag @Ollie-Haus. ETL listing

We don't travel with one, so I don't know what else is out there that meets those specs. When not traveling I keep a 22 pint Frigidaire on the shower floor that continuously drains but it's a little too big for a countertop.

John, if you like and when you make it out to Arizona, buy the parts I listed above (just $100 with tax and including a backup fuse) and in an hour, we'll make the change. Service costs for custom work (most auto/RV service) is crazy these days! I could not afford our Oliver and tow vehicle, let alone the many other vehicles on our property if I had to pay for service. It's a labor of love! Hull #113 made it to the Mothership for service twice prior to our ownership, but not likely again. It's too far (that cost alone is infeasible for us), too much in service costs and it's well beyond warranty! I have a service policy here. When one vehicle breaks down, I park it until I have time to make the repair. In the meantime, I switch insurance to another that is ready to go! We also have cars for fair-weather driving and AWD trucks for winter. My insurance agent loves me! 🤣

Flow in a DC circuit is in two directions which you can see when you observe the battery or inverter apps. If it is showing -A then current is flowing from the battery (source) to the load that is using the current (inverter or any DC device, lights, etc.). When the app is show +A a connected charger is supplying current back to the batteries. The breakers used for RV and marine use are directional, meaning they will only "break" when there is a ground fault on one side. They are generally wired so that if the B+ is grounded somewhere in line past the breaker it will break to protect the batteries. In this configuration, if the 4/0 cable was to be grounded before the breaker, like say someone wrenched the positive cable to remove it from the battery post and they accidently hit the negative with the wrench, or the B+ and B- cables touch in any way, the breaker would not break and the battery would quickly overheat and fry if the connection was allowed to persist. Likelihood of this is relatively low, so hence the use of breakers is common. BTW when removing battery cables always remove the negative first and when installing always connect the positive first so that you do not create this situation. There may be another rare case, though I'm not certain this case is true, where somehow a shore power connected charger pushed way to many amps to the batteries. Highly unlikely, but the fuse would protect in this case and the breaker would not (the breaker only looking for ground fault, not excessive current in the opposite direction). Confusing stuff, right? Breakers are generally less dependable in their design as noted in the experience of many of you in this post and others. And the options available today with rare exceptions are cheaply made in China. They are convenient for those that do not want to replace a fuse and great for household use where to ground the wrong side you would have to have the power panel open. When a fuse blows there is definite reason. Have an extra on hand, but do not install the extra until you determine the cause of the blown fuse, as the fuse is not blowing itself like the defective breaker.

Time for anybody needing to replace the main breaker, get a fuse and fuse holder instead. Fuses protect bidirectionally, meaning they will protect the power source (battery) and the load, inverter and/or other loads. Breakers are OK for like a 40A or 60A DC branch, but not on the 4/0 cables between battery and inverter. A fuse will protect a ground fault at the batteries or at the inverter and a breaker will only protect one side, depending on which direction it is wired. In our older hull, OTT had wired a 250A ANL fuse and holder between the batteries and our original 2KW inverter (check inverter manufacture's spec for correct fuse amps). When I upgraded our inverter I only needed to get an ANL for higher amperage. You can even better protection with Class-T fuses ($$$) but ANL will perform much better than the breaker shown above and certainly is good enough. I would suggest these. The Blue Seas holder is rated to 750A. They have a smaller 300A holder for less money, but this one is nice, with two pairs of mounts which allows you to change the fuse without loosening the battery cables. The second link assumes you need a 300A fuse. Enjoy! 😂 https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Block-Insulating/dp/B001VIVWAW/ https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5133-300a/dp/B07D1VJ7BM/

This is what I use. Though I should upgrade. Mine lookes like it was left outside sitting in a dog turd.

That will work or get a small section of PVC clear reinforced braided vinyl tubing. My dedicated hose fits inside a gallon Ziploc bag for ease of storage. Mostly used in the tank sanitation process via the boondocking port, but I also carry two 5-gal collapsible containers if fresh water supply ever runs low. I can see in your application where the longer hose would be necessary.