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Hi SeaDawg, that's a good question. I think the fresh jet is basically fine. The decibels at the low speed are quite comfortable and I can run it for a few hours on solar. I had both of my hips replaced last year so I didn't use the trailer at all. When I did my traveling right after it was installed, they messed up the installation so that it dripped inside the trailer. I managed through leveling, but it was actually an issue with the install. They corrected that when I got back and then I didn't really travel much after that. I just took the trailer in for overall maintenance and upon return, I got a strange sound from the AC. It was working before I took it in, so I thought maybe they did something during maintenance. And the housing was not sitting quite right. So I took it back and they took the housing off and were able to hear the sound again and said it was the compressor. i'm just a couple months out of the two-year warranty, but I am within my overall trailer warranty that I bought with the trailer (separate from OTT) While they were checking to see if the warranty covered it, I did some investigation about moving over to a 12 V which would give me more time on solar. I'd like to be a little less dependent on electricity and I will be going to Montana to study with a teacher I see annually and I won't have hookups for almost 2 weeks on the land. But as was noted, I probably won't need AC much at all, and I will have my solar. I'm still downsizing my life and hoping to have some real time in the trailer in 2026. So I'm thinking ahead about efficiency and future proofing. The idea of running directly off the battery seems great. Although ideally the mini split seems like the best long-term plan. So the fresh jet is fine. I think most of my problems have been with the shop I've been working with 🙂 I'm going to change that, but I needed to use them for the truma recall. When they realigned the housing top of the AC, I took the trailer home and I have not heard the noise since. So I will probably just stay with what I have, but I am intrigued with this question and I'm very curious going forward. And what better place to explore this question than the experts here in the forums. I'm sure that's more information than you wanted, but I appreciate the question 🙂 -Mary

It was June 26, 2021 when we pulled into a rest stop and sighted our very first Oliver. As fate would have it, we had just been talking about selling our 5th wheel and down sizing to a smaller trailer. We hung around for awhile, but the owners didn’t show up. So we took a photo to remember the Oliver name, and we looked it up as soon as we got home. I came across that photo recently and thought it would be fun to post it and see if anyone recognizes their trailer. It was taken at the tunnel rest stop on Hwy 199 between Crescent City and Grants Pass. When zoomed in, you can just make out a Florida License plate beginning with Z57. The second photo was taken September 9. 2021, just over two months later when we toured the factory and placed an order. Happy days... except for those ridiculous covid masks! Do you have a first sighting story? Love to hear it. Cheers, Geoff and Tanya

Most things that "go wrong" in my 17 year experience can be handled by me and my husband, or a local rv tech. That said, every 3 to 5 years, we head to hohenwald. Mostly because we want to see the progress the factory has made, and reconnect with friends there. Oliver was always very good at helping remote locations with our few issues.

Well it's been a year since we walked into the Oliver showroom dreaming about hitting the road. It was a big step for us since we have never owned an RV and we really did not have any idea if we would even like hauling a travel trailer across the country. Nevertheless, we bought our Ollie I in July 2024 right off the showroom floor. Within a couple of months we had both retired, watched a hundred videos, and were ready to launch. Our first 3 outings were to a corp of engineers campground near our home in Nashville. Since those shakedown trips we have put 12,000 miles on the Ollie, spent over 70 nights in it, visited 17 states, attended 2 Oliver rallies, and visited 11 national parks. We weathered 100 degree heat waves, teens in Arizona, dust storms in west Texas, and hail storms in South Dakota. We have fielded questions from dozens of folks curious about our little Ollie, and their comment is nearly always the same - "That thing is cute." Thanks to all who have answered questions for us during our first year, and it has been great meeting you all at the rallies. And thanks to the staff at the mother ship who have been so responsive in answering questions and helping get the bugs out over the last year. The folks at Oliver are the best in the business. Bob and Barb P.S. If you would like to see some of our photos from the first year feel free to request to join our instagram. (It is a private account but we would love to add you.) campbells_olive2roam

Our story is different, but equally compelling. Hadn't camped in 30 years and had never owned an RV. Purchased Hull 1394 in August of 2023 sight unseen but after a lot of research. We knew what we wanted. Just completed trip #13 today arriving home from the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest. Little FS primitive campground nestled away through 10 miles of single lane gravel road. Temperatures got down in the 40's most nights - we love the northern cool. No regrets. Perfect trailer for us.

Great pics Geoff & Tanya, and great idea for a new thread! Spring 2023 we just sold our Bigfoot Class-C. We decided that given our boondocking style in the western mountains, that a smaller travel trailer would be the better way to go. Our first sighting was what became our Oliver, hull # 113! It was listed on Craigslist right here in Prescott by the 3rd owner. My first thought when seeing the ad was, "No-way we'd pay that much for a small travel trailer!" But first thing out of my mouth was, "Chris, we need to go see this!" 🤣 I put 20% down the day after we went to see it. And just a few days later we paid the balance at our bank, then Paul the prior owner delivered it to our home! Timing was perfect, as we became new owners on Chris' very Happy Birthday! 😂 Pictures of our first day and first campsite just outside Kendrick Mountain Wilderness.

Who was at Patoka Lake in Indiana during a recent heat wave? You made it in the background of “We’re the Russos” latest YouTube video. https://youtu.be/Fnykd-E1qw4?feature=shared

No, not at all, re this simple question. Some may say your axles, though they require an annual pump of grease and every 3-5 years (IMHO) should have a full bearing maintenance, could be better than the newer Nev-R Lube axles. The Jury is out on longevity of the newer Nev-R Lube bearings, that cannot be serviced, but must be replaced if they fail on-the road! We with Nev-R bearings are looking at replacement bearings and a bearing press to replace the bearing in the road if needed. Not necessary with your axles. I would keep your axles, if it was me. If you’re going to Alcan for service, or wherever, ask them to replace your bearings with Made in USA Timken bearings to remove the cheap China-made bearings that came with your axles. New Alcan leaf springs, new Timken bearings, a squirt of grease yearly and please feel confident you’ll have a new suspension rated at 1.5 times the weight rating of the Oliver with all new parts! Hope this helps in your decision! JD

Hope the video helps. Watch the video to the end before starting.

Have you seen this video?

Nev-R-Adjust is the brake system not the bearings.

So very happy for you! Happy motoring!

Wow! Looks like a "vintage" Elite like our 2008. Did you ever get to meet the owners?

If he's charging off ac power, but not solar, it's likely an issue with the solar charge controller. Or, solar wiring. We live off solar, home, and trailer, and boat. If batteries accept charge from ac, it's something in the solar panel wiring system, or charge controller.

I get the hesitancy on Oliver's part. A few people have asked me about dc units in the past year, and I've been hesitant, too. 12v requires much bigger wire, and not being able to "see" the available interstitial space gives me pause What do you not like about your freshjet? You were the Pioneer, here, and I think a lot of folks would like to hear your impressions after a few years.

This is NOT Oliver factory equipment. Oliver uses a molded plug/cable combination like Airstream, and no caulk. Sounds to me like your trailer has an aftermarket replacement plug on it, similar to this one: https://a.co/d/hD8H9JV If you disassemble that Pollak plug you'll probably find screw terminals inside. The one for the brake wire may be loose or corroded.

I think that @Patriot comments in the above mentioned link are most appropriate. The condensate lines cannot be kinked. It is pretty amazing that the lip in the condensate tray between the drain proper and the overflow is only a few millimeters at best. But having said this, if both condensate lines are draining well no water should drain down the side of the trailer or into the trailer regardless of the leveling of the trailer. I will say that I was afraid to really blast the condensate lines with high pressure from below, to prevent separating the connection in the lines I mentioned previously. I had already sealed up the unit before I applied the compressor to the drains under the trailer.

Thanks. Was on their website, but guess I should have looked harder. 🙂

👏👏👏 Hope you have many years of great camping, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli.

A neat success story, thanks for sharing. I agree, it’s been our experience that the folks at Oliver are the best in the business. Safe Travels! 🇺🇸

Never Lube are warrantees for 100,000 miles. The hubs shouldn't be touched. In fact I believe the hubs are sealed.

8 Zerks on each side need to be greased every 3,000 miles.

The 2022 -2025 Oliver's have Never Lub axels (hubs). Never Lub axels are warranteed for 100,000 miles. Your 16 Zerks are the only thing that needs to be greased and serviced, in addition to annual inspection of the entire suspension.

You have a relatively new Oliver. If you do the Timken bearing replacement I suggested, nothing you have done or not done in 3 years matters.

Mary, @Roadlotus, I think you've had a tough year, and hoping all is now well. Thank you for your candid response. Its not easy when combining work, camping, and life.

Yup. Years ago, it was easier. My 2005 Silverado has a fuse. Messed us up early on (2008) as I recall.

This is not factory, imo. And may very well be at least a part of your issue, if not the entire issue.

This is interesting! I'm assuming that the "tricky" part is installing the larger 12 volt wire, and he seems to imply that it could be done?? It would be nice if he could expand on that because myself and others have previously dismissed this as an option. Perhaps there is a way, and I'd be very exited to hear about it. But a word of caution for your installer. Unless there is some sort of adaquate void or channel that the existing 120 volt wire is routed through, then be very wary about using the existing wire to pull in a new wire, or using a fish tape. It's well known that wires can get hopelessly jammed and stuck when doing this in any location, and the Oliver is particularly challenging because of the tight space between the roof and ceiling with curves and pinch points. Make sure your installer has plenty of Wire Pulling Lubricant and experience in this regard, because there is some risk that the 120 volt circuit could get fouled up without being able to get the 12 volt cables in. I'm looking forward to any news on this, and good luck! Geoff

That's true, Truma will only provide parts / components to Truma certified technicians which is not great for do-it-yourselfers. I will say that service at their Elkhart service facility is top notch though if you need something fixed, those techs know their systems very well. We had service work done there and they were excellent. With specific regard to the soft start, there is an aftermarket product that is said to work with the Truma which appears to be pretty straightforward with regard to installation however it will certainly void your warranty and there is currently no data to indicate it's effects, good or bad, on the longevity of the Aventa once installed. I know that Truma does do field installs of their certified unit if there is a certified tech in your area.

That's a good thought about the solar cutoff switch. I don't have one and rarely think that when trying to figure out someone else's problem. I'll call him and ask. Thanks!

When I bought my Oliver they were just getting ready to launch the dealer partnerships. I live in Tampa. They suggested that I might be super happy because I could be supported by one of those closer dealerships. I wished them luck, but told them I doubted they would succeed. At least not for me. Of course driving to Hohenwald is a pita for me. But I chose them because I didn't like anything between here and there.

That sure sounds like the problem.

That trailer ground works for the breakaway switch since the battery in the trailer powers it, but to complete the brake circuit from the truck you must have a good ground from the truck to the trailer too

Oliver was quick to reimburse any warranty repairs at a local RV repair shop. I’m assuming that would continue if the dealers are going away. We had a couple of warranty things repaired locally years ago and Oliver sent us a check to cover the repairs. I’m always looking for an excuse to go to Tennessee, one of our favorite places to camp and visit. Mike

Good thought, If just the tab is missing you're done in 2 minutes!

There is a simpler fix. One could just back out the mounting screw and thread on the ‘wing’ taken off a new box and thus, no rewiring of the fixture! As you duly noted, these plastic boxes are cheap; they are also easy to install, but care should be taken to not over tighten the mounting screws which can result in the breakage observed.

Oliver forgot to put the backer on ours. It was very loose. They sent me a new box under warranty, and I removed the plate and installed on the existing outlet.

Based on the breakaway switch working okay, and the F-350 working with the Airstream, I'd take a close look at the Oliver's 7-pin plug. It could have a loose connection within the molded rubber plug. It could be a hard thing to test, but your best bet would be a continuity test between the plugs female pins and the other end where it terminates... while twisting and pulling it to be sure the circuit break is not intermittent. You might just replace it if there is any doubt. My 7-pin cord terminates in a electric 4" x 4" junction box under the sink, could be loose or shorted in there too. I didn't read the entire post, so apologies if you have already done this. Good luck, Geoff

🤣 🤣 🤣 Yeah, but the brakes should work given power from ANY brake controller! Voltage and correct amperage draw at the wheels?

Hey Ray, I had an issue with my brakes intermittently disconnecting. There is a set of brake wires that go through the rear axle that had worn to the point where bare wire was contacting the metal axle. Several other owners have had the same issue. The wires were pulled out and replaced and are now zip tied to the outside of the axle. Problem solved. It’s a bit unusual that your trailer is not high mileage for this to be the cause but it is worth checking. I’ll see if I can dig up some of the old posts on this issue. Mike

There should be a wing on that mounting screw, looks like it broke off.

The external SAE port goes directly to the battery, not to the charge controller. Even if it did go to the charge controller, you wouldn’t necessarily be able to tie into it. In my case, the Oliver mounted panels are 24 volt, where my portable panels are 12. Mixing voltages drags the 24V panels down to the lower input. And if both your installed and portable panels are the same voltage, you might need a larger charge controller to handle the combined input. I’ll eventually mount a controller inside for convenience. But having the setup that I have now has already saved the day for a friend while camping with no hookups. He was able to use my kit to keep his battery charged enough to run the fridge instead of having to go home early.

@dewdev no idea what the fuse is for but allow me to add the following. On my wiring at the trailer plug the hot charge wire is black and assuming yours is the same (worth checking out) why would they change from black to red? Perhaps this is not your charging wire from TV. Also jd123 makes a good point in an earlier other thread, disconnecting at only one end still leaves the wire potentially a hot wire. IOW's disconnecting at both ends might be a better scenario. Now if I could only find my own charge wire that would be great. I still think the best method is to eliminate the charge at the source, that being the fuses (assuming they are there) pulled on the tow vehicle. Unfortunately for my new truck this part is also a mystery that even Ford mechanics don't seem to be privy to.

Yes, the wiring is VERY different from 2016 to 2020 and @dewdev's is a 2018, likely to be closer to our older hull, but who knows!

Should be. The trick is finding it since every old Oliver seems to be somewhat different. First thing I suggest is to text you test for voltage at your 7-blade connector to see that it is powered and which blade connects to the Black charge wire. Later after disconnecting the wire, you want to see that the same blade is no longer powered. This is the only true means to know you got the correct wire disconnected. Some have reported seeing the cable split under the bathroom vanity, so perhaps you can see where the black wire branches from there. I got lucky to find mine at the +bus under the streetside bed. Notice in the picture, the black wire at the left side of the bus where I have the screw loosened. I removed all the wiring to this bus, shortened the 3 fused + connections to the stabilizer jacks, added a more substantial + bus under the rear dinette seat for easy access. I was able to sort out all the wiring, no extra cables to the batteries, etc. In doing this, I've learned what almost every wire is for in the basement areas of Hull #113! 🤣

I drilled one 4" hole and five 3" holes for closet/bathroom vents and to vent an oven that replaced our microwave. I just used a new high-quality standard hole saw, likely it was carbide steel, not diamond. I did not bother to tape using a hole-saw. It really doesn't help anything. I do tape when using a jigsaw since the base can cause surface marring. In some places the fiberglass is thin, like the 1/8" stated at the pantry. In some places it's double-layered and a plug about 3/4" could be removed. Use a low-speed and a clutch setting on your drill since large hole saws will catch when very slightly off angle. The clutch will save your wrist and the work surface since it will slip when catching vs. jumping. It's late July, so summer is here another 6 weeks and it's hot everywhere. Our weather has been a little cooler for a few days now, but I'm working a brake job this weekend regardless with my son on his '97 T100. We don't have the choice to wait for cooler weather! Two weeks ago, it was my truck and my garage was 105F in the afternoons, fortunately without your humidity. A floor fan helped, lot's of water and electrolytes! Working in the Oliver? NP, just turn on the A/C! I installed my new inverter/charger and moved all the wiring that was under the streetside bed to under the rear dinette seat during July 2024. It was 100+ in my garage and a cool 75F inside the Oliver! 🤣

@dewdev I know to tape the fiberglass and drill slowly. I plan to drill the pilot hole first and then follow with the hole saw. Did you use a toothed hole saw or an diamond or carbide edged saw? I have both a diamond and a carbide edge saw but the diamond saw (Amazon) is larger than advertised and the carbide saw (Harbor Freight) seems very course. I haven't been working on our Ollie since late June due to the weather here. Highs in the mid-90's with heat index in the 100's. Very frustrating! May be able to get something done by the end of next week, highs 'supposed' to drop to the low to mid-80's. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

@Tony and Rhonda I would suggest before drilling to put some (blue) tape on the area to be drilled and start drilling slowly so you do not chip the jelcoat.

From my many years of HAZMAT training and environmental responses, always be mindful that one can quickly become desensitized to smells, even the mercaptan odorant in propane! I often got a whiff or two, but then nothing further and moved on. I now get the sniffer to further investigate for piece of mind if nothing else. Thanks for clarifying your previous statement and advise to others less experienced!

That is scary wiring that the tech removed, BTW the wires should be run along the back side of the axle tubes, not the top or front. That way errant stones won’t cut or crush your pretty new wires. I personally would install split loom over them, but that is a personal choice. I bet the brakes work great now. John Davies Spokane WA