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Thank you all for the kind words. It is a simple understand between UPS and me, I want my craft to arrive in perfect condition and they want to destroy it completely. We get along well together. 🙂 Onward,

You could have asked them to lift one wheel at a time by the axle tube, close to the brake, or under the spring perch, leaving all three other ones on the ground. That doesn’t stress anything. Lifting three tons off the ground that way does…. However, I personally would just use the factory jacks to raise the trailer completely off the ground, as long as nobody crawls under it, no worries. “Jack points? We don’t need no stinking jack points!” This is contrary to current factory recommendations. But in the Old Days it was OK. The jacks are plenty strong enough, unless there is a failure at one of their attach points. This is only for a solid level surface like concrete. John Davies Spokane WA

An eggsausting list. Much eggsertion. Not sure I'm up to the eggsacting task. Perhaps, we can just show a link to a pretty eggsact list, here? Ps, I love this. Most fun I've had in weeks here.

When considering the price of the bearings versus the hassle, time, safety, energy, pain in the ....., etc of breaking down on the road, I would just go ahead and change those right now. Bill

Southbird - You might want to take a look at THIS THREAD for some help thanks to ScubaRX. Note that this pertains only to older Olivers and their original window shades versus newer Olivers with the pure white shades and different sized windows. Bill

I’ve been to discount tire twice with my Oliver. I put a tall block under the front jack to stabilize and then a tall block on the side I want to lift with the onboard jack (“stabilizer”). When done with one side I lower it and raise the other side using a tall block. The jack only extends 3 or 4 inches. When done with the other side I raise the front jack, put the blocks in my tongue box and go home. Mike

That's what I understand to be the "correct" way to jack up the trailer. The problem on a pre-2017-18 trailer is that the subframe is very short. Trying to find a place to get a jack in there amongst the axles etc. is not an easy thing to do. I have used the onboard stabilizers as well and not had any problems. It's my understanding that this issue ..... along with some folks damaging the axle by jacking under them... was what drove Oliver to the decision to extend the steel subframe.

Thanks for the added and important detail

Yes.. that's eggsactly what I meant to say.

OR - try this. Note that the jack points indicated in the video are NOT NECESSARILY applicable to all Elite II's. Early models had a different sub-frame. Bill

Note: For the most up-to-date information please visit Nature's Head Website For how to use your new compost toilet, please see attached user guide or visit Nature's head website to download the manual. Troubleshooting Fan is not working Ensure the power cord is securely fastened to the fan located on the side of the toilet. If the power cord is securely seated at the fan, use a volt meter to test for 12v power. Place the positive lead inside the power cord while touching the negative lead to the outside body If you are getting power to the fan but it is not operating, you would need to replace the fan. Contact Nature's Head at 251-295-3043 or sales@natureshead.net with test results and they will ship a replacement fan directly to you. Contact Oliver Service and we can contact Nature's Head on your behalf to get a fan shipped directly to you. If you are not getting any power at the fan, Check the fuse for the fan. Depending on your year model, the fuse will be located either in the 12v fuse panel, and should be listed, or in-line at the main 12v breaker located under the street side access panel. If the fuse is good but you still have no power at the toilet power cord then it is most likely a wiring connection and would require service. Contact the Oliver service department for further assistance. The below information was captured from the Nature's Head Troubleshooting page. For a full list of troubleshooting, please visit https://natureshead.net/troubleshooting/ Should the Fan run all the time? If using the toilet full time, using the fan full time will enable the compost to process faster. If you are NOT going to be using the toilet for 10 days or more, unplug the fan, as the compost would tend to become too dry and hard. Do empty and clean the urine bottle before leaving. https://natureshead.net/troubleshooting/ Agitator Handle Hard to Turn If the compost gets dry, the handle may not turn easily. Adding used coffee grounds results in added moisture and keeps the compost loose so that it mixes better. https://natureshead.net/troubleshooting/ Compost is Too Dry If the compost is dry or hard, add some water and turn the agitator after the sphagnum peat moss has absorbed the moisture. Compost is Too Wet If too wet due to prolonged diarrhea, add a small amount of sphagnum peat moss. If wet due to excessive condensation, also add a little spagnum peat moss. Make sure excessive wetness is not due to someone urinating directly into the compost section. This can also contribute to an unpleasant odor. The compost area should have only a musty smell. If a sewage odor is present, please contact Nature�s Head for consultation. How Often should you Empty the Solids Bin The time frame for to empty the solids bin varies with number of people and the time period. Generally 2 people full time empty approx. 3 weeks, additional people will shorten that time. The toilet is designed for 1 to 4 people full time. If using just weekends with 2 people, that can extend time to 2 months or more. Just a couple of days of non use extends the period of time. Usually, the level of the compost will not increase; if it does it will be minimal. When to Empty Liquids Bottle It is best if you do not leave the liquid wastes in the tank for extended periods. While everyone is different, some urine will smell bad if allowed to sit for extended periods. Does Compost work in cold temperatures Composting works from 55 degrees and warmer. The warmer it is, the faster it compost. When the temperature drops to freezing, the compost will be dormant until heat is introduced into the area. How to Remove Buildup in the Liquids Bottle Empty the bottle. Add 1/4 cup of Lemishine Detergent Booster per gallon to the bottle and let it sit for 24 hours. Another suggestion is to rinse the bottle, add vinegar and some pea gravel. Shake well and the buildup will break loose. 1162068337_NaturesHeadCompostToiletUserGuide.pdf

In a previous life, I transported very sensitive materials all around the world for a federal agency and never have I seen packaging as "bomb proof" as Foy's. I recently opened a drawer assembly he sent us and it probably took longer for me to unpackage the drawer parts than it did for him to actually produce the packaged items. Unbelievable. You know before you even get to the actual contents that this is going to be a quality product. Thanks Foy.

Ok, we’ve read the reviews and seen the photos of Foy’s wares, and know of their well-deserved stellar reputation. I’ve just received my order, and it does not disappoint. An unacknowledged talent he possesses is packing and shipping. Imagine the care and attention to detail exemplified in his wood products, extended to packing and shipping. Rest assured, the items are crafted with care, and packaged to arrive in pristine condition.

I just saw the following notice for late model Ford truck and since a fair number of Oliver owners have this truck it might be of interest: Ford is also recalling 391,836 2021-2022 F-150, 2022 Ford Maverick, Expedition, Lincoln avigator, F-250, F-350, F-450 and F-550 vehicles because a towed trailer equipped with an electric or electric-over hydraulic brake system might not brake. Dealers will update the integrated trailer brake control module software. Ford has 67 reports of improper function potentially related to the issue but no reports of crashes or injuries related to the recall.

Nice enough weather today to start the Ollie maintenance with greasing the zerk fittings and repacking the wheel bearings. No issues get the wheels & drums off or greasing the zerk fittings. After pulling the drums off, good to see plenty of grease still in the bearings (Oliver did the previous bearing repack service), grease looked nice and clean still (first photo) but the two of the bearings show discoloration on the inner race surface where it contacts the axle spindle (second photo). The axle spindles look really good and the tapered rollers themselves in the bearings all look good with no discoloration, but with that discoloration of the race I’m still thinking it’s time to replace the Chinese bearings with the genuine Timkens that I purchased from the western PA Timken distributor. Discoloration like that is usually a sign of the bearing overheating at some point. Thoughts?

Dr - I too went the accumulator route in my search for a quieter way to get water. There are also additional features of the accumulator that I've grown to like. In addition to this I did several things - all at the same time. Therefore I can't tell you which of these helped the most. When plumbing for the accumulator I replaced all attached lines with stainless steel braided lines and then covered ALL lines that I could reach with insulator tubes (LIKE THESE). Next I added more layers of insulation against the hull, on the underside of the trap door/access door to this area, and against the interior wall beneath the bed. As a result, I can now hardly hear the water pump when it come on. Good luck! Bill p.s. look me up at the Rally - I'd be happy to show you what I did.

I guess it depends on what you expect and actually do when camping. We have the 4 6v AGMs and over 3 years they have served us well. We can dry camp for 3 nights (we have no solar) and just plug the trailer in when storing. Camping on the East - and mostly mid south to southeast means a lot of trees for us and so the advantages of solar would be minimal. When the AGMs bite the dust I would considers lithium, but honestly I’d rather spend the extra money on a quieter air conditioner.

As far as bearing, nothing better than American made

What's that got to do with it?😇 Seriously - any human that I know of isn't going to lift one of these campers all by themselves. Knowing what works and especially knowing the right way to do it pertains to all of us. Besides usually being safer, the right way is also usually the most efficient and easiest way to get a job done correctly too. Bill p.s. besides - these kinds of topics are good to revisit from time to time particularly with more and more people obtaining previously owners Ollies.

The potential problem with doing this is that the axles just might be dented, bent or otherwise deformed. These axles are not solid material. The basic problem with this is that depending on where the jacks are placed there may be enough torque to "tweak" or bend the frame such that it will either be out of alignment and/or put stress on the fiberglass body. Both these issues (and perhaps more) are reasons why Oliver started identifying the specific jack points on trailers sometime in 2017 or 2018. As with SeaDawg my 2016 Elite II has never had jack points identified. However, I've been told that when/if I need to jack up the camper I should place the jack on the steel subframe as close to the axles as I can. It will be interesting to see what the latest word on this issue is from Service. Bill

I wonder why your plug keeps coming out? It sounds as if the outlet is defective. Mine fit very tightly. There is no way it would have worked it’s way out, it was fine for five years…. Did you ever submit a service request? At the very least, it lets Oliver know that there is a problem with some hulls. Maybe enough complaints will get them to install a junction box during production instead of this stupid setup😳. Or issue a tech bulletin about it for existing trailers. Even if it technically “meets RV code”, it is absolutely dangerous, especially in your situation, where you are constantly fumbling around in a (potentially) wet area! No GFCI protection! ZAP! Please take pictures, the LE may be different from the LE2. You can post them in this thread or start a new one if you like. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Thank you so much. I have been thinking about this since I got my Ollie 1 year ago. This solves a real hassle for me. My trailer is a 2021 Elite 1. Every time I travel I have to plug in the fridge cord to the outlet (if I want ot run the fridge off AC). Obviously, this requres me to remove a drawer and and stretch my arm back there, feel around and plug it back in. For some reason, the plug always dislodges during travel. I have tried to secure it with zip tie and duck tape.....to no avail. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Bill

@Landrover, I don't think any of our earlier trailers had specific jackpoints marked. I'm sure mine (2008) didn't. Though we have never had an issue, through 3 or 4 sets of tires, and annual maintenance, I'd love to see Oliver weigh in. We, also, look at the beefy aluminum frame as pretty much bulletproof.

I do have a service ticket for May. I'm in a place where learning to do my own maintenance and/or repairs is important and I excite for the learning experience. However, my tireless research on the forum and elsewhere has left me a bit confused. There's many ways to skin the cat I've gleaned - and since Olivers are constructed differently in different years, I'm having a hard time nailing down how to properly lift my ILOVHER. My Casita (OCD) was simple. The Oliver service bulletin doesn't seem to apply in my case. I will be traveling quite a distance to my first rally and these type of things are just worth knowing if I end up on the side of the road. Thanks for all of your help!!

EDIT: It is possible that your fridge cord is not quite long enough to reach the new box, You can open up the bottom fridge access panel (outside the trailer) and see if there is some slack there that you can use to make it a little longer. The cable comes in at the very bottom left corner and attaches to the main circuit board under the plastic cover.If you still don't have enough length, you will have to remove that section and replace it with a longer piece of "house wire". Mine reached, barely. If you do run a new wire, be sure to re-seal the opening, That area should be "propane tight" to prevent a leak from penetrating the hull. John Davies Spokane WA

Yes, four big (#12 I think) sheet metal screws CUT TO LENGTH - there is only 3/8" of HDPE material to screw them into, which is why I used so many screws. Be exceptionally careful drilling the holes, so you don't punch holes into the outer hull! I have mounted blocks of this material elsewhere, I much prefer the 1" thickness since it grabs the screw threads sooooooo much better. John Davies Spokane WA

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/videos/ This discusses the proper use of the stabilization jacks and is found in the Oliver university videos.... but at the 3:20 mark... they point out the jack-up points.

John, Very slick to install that metal plate then mount the junction box to the plate. Am I interpreting correctly that you have have 4 screws securing the mounting plate to the water line backing plate? That should hold it pretty well as long as the backing board stays attached to the sidewall. Here's what I see inside my hull 505 with my impression of what you did: (*new backing plate yellow, mounting screws black, new box grey) As to your earlier post about the sink and the water coupler, my unit has no blue coupler on the pull out hose. The hose comes from the faucet, makes a loop back up to the nozzle with no coupler, but it does have a weight. I'll do the mod you just showed before I leave on our next long trip. Craig

John These are made from 6061 aluminum and have been glass bead blasted to help break all the sharp edges from machining, so it gives it a even texture. The leading edge of the eyebrow does have the radius to help deflect any object that would strike it. It could of been a longer taper but I was limited to sheet stock drop I had on hand. I think they are tucked in close enough that the benefit of having them outweighs the risk. The eyebrow with out the mounts weigh in at about 2-1/2 pounds. But this is just the prototype and there is always a better mouse trap. Thanks for the complement and I appreciate your comments. Paul

Now that more campgrounds are charging for electrical use by the amp/hour on top the the regular site fee, this is interesting, You can turn the charger off while connected to shore power? The campground would be really surprised to see no amp/hours used!

If you go to Ollie Modifications under the main Forums tab in the blue banner at the top of the page, you will find all kinds of modifications that owners have done to their Olivers over the years. Some of these mods are inexpensive and simple while others are involved and can be expensive. Also, if you attend the annual Owner's Rally there are multiple chances to view some really interesting Olivers. There's even one where the interior décor gets changed numerous times a year (Foy & Mirna). Make it your own!

@RV Newbie The 12v and 120v circuits are isolated in the trailer. Your xantrax inverter/charger will use your generator/shore power to charge the batteries and provide 120 to the rest of your trailer. You can set the incoming current limit so it does not overload your generator. It’s your responsibility to limit 120 usage (microwave, AC, etc) during this charge cycle so the generator can provide continuous clean power.

I'm King Moon from Knoxville, TN. On 11/11/21 I took delivery of the last trailer produced for the 2021 model year - Hull #948 - Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed Floor Plan Delivery was great and the new camping spots right beside the factory are very convenient. The quality and attention to detail in my unit exceeded my high expectations. I ordered the trailer with the standard tops so that I could install the custom wood tops created by Foy Sperring. I ordered pretty much all of the pieces that he produces - in Black Walnut. I also ordered the Mega size for the dinette top (which is the largest of the 3 sizes he produces). I can't say enough good things about Foy, his communication with me, and his amazing wood creations. I would highly recommend working with Foy if you want to add beautiful wood products/tops to your Oliver. I have attached several pictures. I am looking forward to meeting fellow Oliver owners.

I don't know Foy, but I've admired the photos. I finally got to see some of Foy's beautiful hand crafted work when we camped with Mike D and his wife. The photos are beautiful. The product is even more beautiful in person. My grandfather and father were master woodworkers. Pretty sure I know quality when I see it. Foy's craft is truly amazing.

Here is the packaging of the Mega Dinette Top I bought from Foy. I bought several items from him and all of his items are packed with this level of care.

Bummed we won't see the packaging! Foy has shipped our order direct to Hohenwald, where I believe Oliver will have it all installed by pick-up on Monday...

First class! All the way.

I totally agree! I was amazed at the packaging process. He told me he couldn't find the size boxes he needs so he cuts down other boxes to fit perfectly and the backing materials as well. It felt just like Christmas when my boxes arrived earlier this year.

I'd be willing to bet that Foy's wife - Mirna - has a hand in that packaging somewhere too.😀

1. Yes, and yes it is! 2. I've had good luck using a magic eraser pad. You can also minimize the streaks by sealing the light gaskets with Captain Tolleys.

I used my white ones for a template and let the roll heat up some in the sun. Then cut them to length and they fit perfectly. After about 2 months they were all about an inch too short, so having some extra was a good thing for me. If I did it again, I would cut them long and force them in the corners better than my original attempt. If you are replacing all of the white window seals on an LE2, I think your measurements are short. Using your measurements, I come up with 205" or rounding up to 18'. Curb side bed window = 60" Street side bed window = 60" Dinette window = 60" Bathroom window =25" Mossey

H109-376 from Pelland Enterprises. We replaced ours right after purchase with ones that are black vs the original white. https://www.pellandent.com

I hitch Ollie to my truck and set the TV parking brake.......and pocket the keys! At least I know if my jacking skills fail me, it's not going to go very ....far other than down.

Just arrived Amazing what can come from a dialogue with Foy Sperring

Sorry for the late reply. For some reason I kept having trouble opening the thread. I think I'll just play it safe and just raise one side at a time when I change out the tires. I just needed to ensure exactly the jack points. You guys rock! tHank you! George

Excellent points Steve! It was not my intention to suggest that the only place to jack up the trailer to change a tire was from in front of the front tire. I just couldn’t get a clear picture of the rear jacking point on my trailer. That was also the reason I referenced the newsletter as it has a better description than I provided. But here are 2 pictures copied from the newsletter showing the jack points for OTT's 2017 and newer. Mike

I believe you may have better success with jacking the frame up behind the wheels rather than in front. My experience with using the front position is that it also lifts the front jack off the ground, particularly if you're trying to lift only the rear tire. This could turn into a disaster if the trailer decided to pivot on the opposite side tires. "But they're chocked", you say. Still taking a chance in my opinion. "Keep it hooked to the tow", now you're trying to lift the truck too.

You can all ways verify the spot with a magnet to confirm it is steel. Mike

This info was available because I did the research and discovered it. I don't own an owner's manual but I'd bet a month's salary that it's not there and if you were to call Oliver they could only tell you the name of the company. As far as finding it 4-8 years from now, I'd write it down. I keep information like this in my phone. And it's backed up, multiple times. The only answer for the question of color seems to be the fact that they choose not to produce it in pure white. They used to, the shade frames in our first Outlaw Oliver were white but sometime during Oliver's travel trailer building hiatus (2009-2013) the company switched to only Black and Almond.