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Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year! Enjoy the Oliver video! Mr and Mrs Patriot🇺🇸🎅🏻🧑🏻‍🎄

There have been a number of these types of "shelf mods" post here on the Forum over the years but this is one of the simpler examples. Since I travel mostly solo and don't really cook all that much inside the Ollie I don't have need for a shelf, but, to avoid splatter onto the bed area I have one of THESE. Easy to put up, take down and store and is inexpensive. But, it does not increase counter space. Bill

I think you are right on this Steve. I am going to go with 55psi.

@Coddiwomple From the way I'm understanding this chart (I may be off whack), that particular size ST at 45psi would support 2020 pounds for a total trailer weight of 4040 pounds. A fully loaded Elite ready to camp, I suspect would weigh close to 4500+ pounds. I believe, if that is your true weight, it would be better to go up to 55psi. To carry your GVWR, you do need to be at 65psi.

Awesome. Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas everyone! Hoping for a New Year full of travel and camping for everyone! Nice bottle of Amber Falls wine in the video, they are a HH if you want to do serious tasting then just walk back to your Oliver! Mike

The range extender does take up valuable bed space. Plus, it would get frustrating having to stop and charge, maybe even needing to disconnect the trailer to get into some chargers. Lots of RV’s in the western US and even if every gas station had chargers it would take a while waiting for the charging process to finish. I can fill my diesel tank in a lot less time. Mike

The reason I posted this is because a lot of us like to discuss new technology. There’s no suggestion that this would apply to the construction of an Oliver, it’s about a potential tow vehicle. I have no personal experience in working with steel or stainless steel as you do, I’m just going by the Tesla information that their truck panels are a special alloy that can’t be handled like normal SS. Mike

Anybody wanting to make a similar kinda mod?... You set all the magnets in the mounting position you prefer on the metal shelf, then clean all parts (and the cabinet edge to which it mounts) with alcohol and then apply the 3M tape on the magnets. Now you are almost there, Ready, Set, Go, no, no WAIT! All you have to do is push the shelf correctly into position! Better be straight, only one chance with VHB tape. Or there is another way. You can take hours to measure and tape each individual magnet, or why not make a CAD drawing first? 🤣 I would say that if you want to do it my way, practice the mounting movement a half dozen times, prior to taking the second side off the tape! Somehow, I got it level right up to the counter edge. Gotta love it! Wish my new water pump and valve switches install would go as smoothly!

I was able to install this without any permanent scar to the Oliver. The magnets came with screws, instead I used 3M 4950 VHB. The earth magnets are staggered for strength, and I taped an aluminum bar to the shelf (see pic) so it would not slide down. It sits on the upper 3 magnets. It takes a good pop to remove the shelf! Took more time thinking than the work to install. Figure the shelf will sit between the mattress and the nightstand when we are sleeping. Nice budget on this mod. Shelf, magnets and tape from Amazon. Amazon.com: DIY CARTEL Made in USA Linear Floating Shelf - USA Manufactured Steel - Industrial Heavy Duty Metal Wall Mounted Modern Farmhouse Rustic Designed Shelf (24-in X 8-in Powder Coated White) : Home & Kitchen

We have a 2023 Elite 1 with Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R15 tires. We were told to inflate to 65psi. I just found the load chart and it indicates that we should be inflating to about 45psi if I am reading it correctly. I am assuming the weight listed in the chart is per tire (so half the total weight). On the scale, the trailer weighs just under 4,000 lbs loaded. I uploaded a snippet of the load chart. Can someone confirm this?

I went down the same path, had brackets like this on my Amazon Wishlist! Also thought of 'Z' brackets and other removeable options. The folding option was not going to work for us because we just purchased 12" tall mattresses from Brooklyn Bedding (a Phoenix AZ company, see rvmattress.com) and with the taller mattress the shelf would not fold down 90 degrees. Then when I found this great steel shelf the magnets seemed the way to go. Wish they had a 30" shelf, to hover over the 30" wide mattress, but choices were 24" or 36". Thought for a day or two of buying the 36" length and cutting it down to 30" but I would have had to get a machine shop to cut this steel exactly square so that it would look right. My advice, choose your shelf first and then select the mounting. Yes, VHB either way and purchase 3M 4950 VHB. I had another 3M VHB, black in color and thinner. I used it to mount the aluminum bar to the shelf, but it is not as strong, so I did not believe it would support the shelf. I wish I could post a video of me taking this shelf on and off. When the magnets grab, it loudly clicks into position, and you can feel how strong the mount is. If I was to do this again, with the same parts, perhaps 5 magnets vs. 6 would be the perfect recipe.

This is the simple reason an EV truck is not a good TV, and likely will not be in our lifetimes (thinking those of us now at retirement age). But what if solar technology gets to the point that the TT can carry enough capacity to feed the TV? You would need a DC-to-DC charger is reverse! Then I'm in for an EV TV! Technology for technology's sake? I like to see application. But could I afford one? That's like political/government types thinking that everybody who drives an older car today can just buy an EV. They are not cheap. A $16 Range Extender means $16K in batteries and yes, they take space and GVW. "Can the charge cord reach you with TT attached?" Another good point. I only see charge stations at some hotels. Perhaps they're more prevalent along the Pacific coast. I wonder, who is paying for the electricity? RV parks would need dual hook-ups. Commuters will charge overnight without concern. Having a commuter EV that doesn't create emissions, need oil changes, and other maintenance of the internal combustion engine is where the EV will shine.

That's good enough reason and we all enjoy frequenting here for many reasons. Thanks Mike! ☺️ Some of my writing can be merely for exclamation, e.g. "Why are we talking about this here?" Didn't mean it literally, so please take no offense! This has been a fun post, even for us EV detractors! I've mainly seen stainless steel fab'd in the restaurant industry, where they curve the counter ends using a press and bend/shape SS panels to make exhaust hoods, etc. I didn't watch the video either and these fenders must be more than SS, as most stainless is relatively soft, and not at all "bullet-proof." You got me thinking of the DeLorean, after I posted that picture. I ended up watching some of Back to the Future which I had not seen in 30 years! 🤣

Thinking about future OTT having electric motors at the wheels for electro/mechanical assist while towing - extending the range even more. Nonetheless, we're eventually entering into a new realm of RV'ing...

I don’t think so. We can all agree it’s pretty tough stuff!

Here’s the LOLOHO video…. It includes the Tesla footage, at about 3.5 minutes in a guy is shooting at the side and that’s followed by Joe Rogan trying to pierce the side with an arrow.

figuratively speaking...

A couple folks had asked about the stops we made for Alaska 2023. Here's an updated map with the list of stops spelled out on the map. We share the number of days we stayed at each stop in parenthesis each way (Outbound, Return) Red stops are the ones we made down the Casiiar HWY as our return route. We had a couple of Alaska Commercial RV parks we wouldn't suggest staying at: 1) Trapper Creek AK - Don't bother with the mudpit called Trapper Creek RV park, there are free sites or State parks all around that are much better. We were simply looking for a dump and that was the suggestion from RV apps. 2) Northern Nights in Glenallen AK....is now under new ownership...and it's chaos there. There are other State and National Parks near there which are much better. If you have specific questions DM me on the forum. Craig - Hull 505 - Galway Girl

So, as Jimmy Buffett asked, "Is it ignorance or apathy?"

Do you only have the plug in 12volt anti-freeze heater kit option installed instead of the standard filter? If so, then yes you will need a standard filter to do the de-calcification process. They are available on Amazon from Truma, but pricey! And check in the Truma compartment thoroughly by opening the outside Truma access door. Some owners (and Oliver service folks) tuck the standard filter into the Truma unit in the area of the wiring harnesses. It just fits in there for storage but can be well hidden. Truma AquaGo Replacement Filter | Compatible with Truma AquaGo Hot Water Heater https://a.co/d/3KBZRdb

EVs are for commuters, grocery-getters and soccer-Moms living in cities and suburbs, where every 24 hours you know exactly where you are going to plug-in (at home)! And it is in the cities where lower emissions are needed. No interest at all over here. Used my diesel truck recently to drive to Las Vegas for work. There and back, went 580 miles, on one tank of fuel. Try that with a gasser or worse yet an EV. Figure we will get a good 480 miles a tank towing, though so far we have only taken local camping trips. Camping with an EV TV? Which one are you going to plug in? 🤣 Tesla cars look odd enough to my old eyes. This truck looks worse. Couldn't they spend a little more fab time and round out those wheel wells? Really bad lines! Yuch

@2500 watts and 12 volts Your amperage would be around 210 amps most I ever plan to use. Keeping the length of cable down is critical. Keeping cables under 10 ft should be o..k.k. for 2/0 according to many of charts I have looked at. Critical to have good fuse. Thats what protects your wiring.

An Elite interior, which we looked at very briefly before ordering our OLE2. It was just a bit too cozy for us and not as tall an interior if you’re over 6’2. A show stopper for us.

Used 2/0. Changed out stock cables. Want to change out stock fuse later down the road also. Just need the time.

Those straps look great!! We just replaced our broken straps with new plumbing hanger material and some fender washers. We are hoping that the fender washers are enough to spread the load on the new straps but we definitely will look at the nylon strap solution if there’s any more trouble.

You state that the first blue sky Oliver system was originally designed by Technomadia, in early 2008 and installed onto their trailer. I have no reason to doubt that this is an accurate statement since I do remember seeing pictures during construction and there were solar panels on the roof. Also, you say that you and Paul copied their design for your 2008 with 'their knowledgeable input, and permissions', apparently using the same equipment, since it was the best on the market. I, on the other hand, have seen that trailer only once when we ran into them at a campground probably sometime in 2009. We spent about three minutes saying hello, we did not go inside and I have no idea how they designed their solar system so I'm perplexed as to why you think I followed their design. As I stated in my Original Post, "At Oliver's request, in late 2013, I designed the first solar system [for the new Elite II's being built] that would go on to be installed in all the OEII's from 2014 and beyond from Hulls #050 thru #199. I included the best equipment on the market at the time. Blue Sky was the cream of the crop. In 2017, with Hull #200, Oliver switched to a Zamp system.

That's a nice and neat solution to the problem. Fortunately I was forewarned (thru this forum) about the correct OTT tire pressure (50 is what I fixed on). I did notice that the metal straps seemed a bit sub-par in securing the furnace and water heater. I like your solution better. (another someday project)

Thank you @Ollie-Haus & @Steve Morris. I am not familiar with the Xantrex app yet (so far we’ve only downloaded the Lithionics app. But I will research that today. Sounds like it would solve our issue for sure - thanks again for the advice.

Thank you Bill and nice to meet you. Boone is such a beautiful area, one of our sons attended App State. As for Michigan, my husband and I grew up in Lansing and now have a home near East Jordan up north. We just picked up our Ollie on Monday so the batteries are still over 90%, we may just be that we had the wrong adapter or accidentally left something on inside. Thank you for the thoughts though. We have a lot to learn about our new Ollie 😉

@Cindy TownsendThis is most likely your solution. I've made this system change back and forth a few times. With the Xantrex app on your phone it only takes a few seconds. You have to be in the camper and connected via bluetooth. The change is made in the settings menu. You can change that setting pretty low as you are only float charging the batteries all winter. Sometimes a shore power GFI doesn't like what it sees when plugged into an Oliver charging system. I've not experienced this personally though.

Welcome to the family! I didn't see if your set up included Lithium batteries or not... but I'm betting, based on your description, that you do. We have the 390Ah lithium battery pack... and when we plug in (especially when capacity is low), the system draws a lot of energy fast. It's called "bulk charging". I have discovered that it will trip the electrical breaker on any standard 15 amp outlets. I have to plug it into one of my 20 amp plugs to charge the batteries. As a side bar: watch your EMS (Electrical Management System). It will first make sure all electric coming into the Oliver is "clean" (meaning correct voltage, Hz) it will tell you what, if anything is wrong, with the incoming electric. If it sees anything wrong (low voltage, high voltage, bad ground, etc) it will stop the flow of electricity to your Oliver (protecting it). It will show an error code indicating what it found wrong. I keep a copy of the "error codes" posted right next to the EMS. This helps you know immediately if there is a problem at the electrical source. If all is good coming into the Oliver, then if anything is still not right... you can start checking fuses and such.

Welcome to the club! We are also from NC (near Boone) and originally hailed from MI (Kazoo), and got our Ollie (Yogi) last March. Depending on the electrical package that you got in "Pearl" the Inverter/charger/batteries could require a hefty current to bring the batteries up to full. This current demand could last a couple of hours or more. You mention that it takes several seconds to trip the breaker, so I'm guessing it is a circuit overload, not a short or fault situation. The fix may be as simple as charging the batteries prior to storage to alleviate this current demand. The previous information is only an educated guess. Bill G

Thanks for all the fantastic responses. More than one might normally expect in a Welcome thread! I appreciate the pointers to threads in other sections, as that gets me out of the Newbie corner and into the Business End of the forums. See you all there... Steve

Sooo, different folks with different features can have different cold weather experiences. As outlined earlier in this chain, we spent months winter camping in our Elite 2, carefully tracking temps of pex lines in between shells, primarily with our unit winterized. 2021 with that era's furnace. While we stayed toasty warm down to negative teens, there were areas, primarily rearmost pex lines behind garage and lines feeding the exterior shower under the streetside bed, that would drop below freezing in temps around low twenties. After making outlined modes, which were extensive, the lines were good till mid teens. Had we been non winterized, running our Truma water heater, it would have made no difference as that system in the Olivers is a non circulating system so the Truma stays at temp where it is sety but the warm water does not make it to the taps unless they are open. To those that do not camp in freezing winter conditions, this is perfectly acceptable but if you camp where it can often drop below freezing you are likely to run into nightime temps that would expose lines to freezing. Especially true if daytime tempos stay below freezing. In single digit conditions, we would burn through a 30lb propane tank every other day which is both pricey and labor intensive. We loved our Oliver for the superior build quality, great ride, and comfy layout but so much of our camping was in full on winter conditions so we decided to move on. It sold, just yesterday and we have bought ourselves a Winnabego Ekko RV which is truly a 4 season unit. It was quite manageable camping in a winterized Oliver, using containerized water and our composting toilet (great) but our eyes are set on multi week ski safaris so the occasional shower is really a necessity. I've noticed that over the last couple of years Oliver has upgraded to a Truma heater and made some of the mods outlined here so I would assume the stock units can survive unwinterized to the lower temps I laid out above. Anyhow, that's my $02 worth.

When I read that you want to camp in spring and fall in Colorado, I recalled the post below . LoriL posted some great pictures of camping high up in the mountains in October of last year.

@Minnesota Oli posted his mods to make his camper 4 season in my native Minnesota. (Hats off to him! I don't want to camp in sub zero weather, though some of my Minnesota nieces and nephews do... ice fishing, etc.)

Update to the weight of the purifi washer. It's 42 lbs not 50 lbs. Sorry about that!

Wishing you all a very Happy Easter!🐰

@Patriot: Couldn't have worded it better, brother! Enjoy the rally - wish we could join you there! 😅

Amen Patriot!!

Happy Easter :)

happy Easter everyone 🙏

May the Blessing of Easter fill your heart with love. Happy Easter!

Yep, I get your point. However I meant the underside of the drawers (the side you don’t see), just as an overkill measure for those not in agreement with the glue.

Another good video by Jason on drawer removal listed here- https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/videos/

For reference, we have a 2015 LE2 and our drawer release is the black "handle" shown in the drawer slide photo below. Those handles had to be moved either up or down for the release to happen so the drawer could be pulled all the way out. AND the black handle on each side moved in opposite direction of other side. So if I pulled the left handle up then I pushed the right handle down.

That is an important consideration, definitely. In this case I am not concerned since the drawer sides and bottoms are both made from wood. If they were different materials, then definitely do not glue. I think this is one of those situations where you have to decide whether you want the bottom to bow down and perhaps fall out of a groove, or stay in place and possibly crack. If an owner is concerned, he can Google “floating drawer bottom”, do some reading in the woodworkers forums, and decide for himself. BTW, I live in, and generally camp in, an arid part of the country, so prolonged high humidly or dramatic moisture changes is rarely a worry. And a couple of my drawers are quite heavily loaded, they are not all filled with plastic utensils or lightweight personal items. Thanks very much for the comment. John Davies Spokane WA

Here is a pic from that other thread showing how the screws can pull out of the front part of the drawer. John Davies Spokane WA