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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/08/2020 in all areas

  1. There seems to be concern for the need to have heated LiFePO4 batteries. I too was concerned before I installed our Battle Born batteries. I thought about drilling holes in the compartment, to allow air to flow from the basement into the compartment and installing a heating pads. From our experience, neither have been necessary. I did seal the four holes on the battery compartment door and installed a single layer of the same insulation Oliver uses on the basement compartment door. We have camped in temperatures down to 16 degrees and exterior of the batteries have never gon
    4 points
  2. I live close to Guntersville and I just want to let everyone know that about five miles up the road , the park has a primitive camping Site that is beautiful and I believe everyone can have lake front options. It is first come first serve. They will let you swap and it is cheaper of course. For those who love Boondocking, it is a great spot. Water available. IMG_0521.MOV
    3 points
  3. 1. RE @NCeagle's concerns about prolonged charging at 100%, I know that Battleborn batteries have a higher capacity than labeled and that their BMS is supposed to keep their batteries within a range that will prolong their life. Do you use a similar tactic or should owners be cautious about charging your batteries to 100% or depleting them to 0? I did notice that you recommend that owners deplete their batteries to 50% if being stored for longer than 30 days, whereas Battleborn recommends charging them to 100% before disconnecting. 2. Is your BMS software upgradable via your app? Are
    2 points
  4. Hello Fritz, Statement 1 above is incorrect. With our latest BMS, if the cell temperature drops below about 26°F, the heater circuit will activate whenever you apply charge current. If the current is below 0.05C , charge current will be delivered to the cells. If above 0.05C but less than the minimum required for the heater, the battery will not charge and a 10 minute delay timer will start. When sufficient current is available, the heater will activate. When the release temperature threshold is met, current will be directed to the cells. The charge source can be anything that make 1
    2 points
  5. I have the Decked drawer system and love it. It is waterproof and I never am crawling/reaching for anything in the bed. Everything stays locked up and organized. For larger items, I have a Yakima rack where I can cable lock the generator on top of the Decked drawers, carry kayaks and, 2 - 4 extra gallons of gas in Rotopax cans.
    2 points
  6. It is clear that some of you have a very strong electrical background, but I needed some refresher to better understand these lithium battery discussions. So I’m going to try and re-phrase what I’ve learned from this discussion and Oliver. And, cutting to the chase, I’m rethinking the value of the lithium pro package. Perhaps this summary will help others. Warning: long post. Electrical current can be described with this formula: Current = “I” (amps) = Power (watts) / Voltage (V) By example, the current 11,000-btu A/C draws about 1,100 watts. If plugged in to
    2 points
  7. Hello all. I've been on a quest to buy a used trailer for several months. Unlike many, I plan to live in it year-round, so 4-season ability is a must. I am single, so I think something 16-20 feet would be sufficient. Until recently, I thought I would be buying an Escape, but the insulation in those seems much less than on the Olivers. I don't need a lot of bells and whistles, like A/C, power awnings, electronic stabilizer jacks and a tv, but it seems like I can't escape those features with Olivers. Basically, I need a sturdy trailer with good storage, great insulation, ventilation and the
    1 point
  8. One feature of my 2008 Elite, "The Wonder Egg", that is no longer available in later models is the 45 foot long 30Amp service cable on an electric reel. It occupies the space under the front dinette seat which now contains the furnace on newer models. It is one of my favorite features and I would sorely miss it if I ever bought a newer model . . . which is NOT likely to happen . . . ever . . . I LOVE The Wonder Egg!
    1 point
  9. This has been an enlightening thread. The lithium option looks promising. I’m left scratching my head a little though on the cost vs benefit. We boondock about 50% of the time. The other 50% we have 30a. My AGMs have performed well and I barely look at them once a year. We have covered storage with a 20a that I plug in to. Temps here range from about 25 to 105 degrees and I’ve never thought about cooling or warming them. Like I said, I’m scratching my head a little.... Mike
    1 point
  10. While you’re in Hohenwald, stop by the Tractor Supply and see if they have any Champion inverter generators. At our Tractor Supply here in Boerne I got a 2K Watt, 37 lbs, very quiet for $349 on sale. It has performed flawlessly the last couple of years and is as quiet as the Honda or any of the inverter generators.
    1 point
  11. I'm planning on just using the package price to keep it simple. I don't know any better and Oliver has been nice enough to call it a "Solar Package". 🙂
    1 point
  12. OK. Here's a fact from our business over many years: No customers has ever told us that they could not use the credit because the alternator or generator or shore power also charge the batteries. Customers wrote to thank us for the ITC info. They had never heard of it. They all used the full amount for the credit and were grateful for the $ thousands saved. I understand your wanting to research so I hope this is helpful.
    1 point
  13. Actually, it makes no sense to me whatsoever to try and prorate something that you haven't even used yet!! 😏 But we are talking about the federal government! Trust your tax advisor of course. Based on what I know from research and what Larry said about what other customers do, I will be taking the credit for the entire package. Here's a good summary that is in line with other things I've read... https://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-information/federal-tax-credit#:~:text=Solar Tax Credit History&text=As of January 1%2C 2020,your solar system%2C including installation.
    1 point
  14. Nope, sorry for the misunderstanding. Our Oliver did not come with any pin at all, probably got left out by mistake, but we have been using a long neck master lock similar to what you would use for a Yeti Cooler which works great plus its an additional security lock also.
    1 point
  15. That is great information. Stuff like that should be on your website! Seriously consider hiring a web developer and adding more technical information. The current site made me seriously consider how I might spend $4,000 elsewhere. 🤪 A lot of the early battery management systems would actually kill lifepo4; parasitic drain from WiFi, Bluetooth, LEDs, etc. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer most of these questions.
    1 point
  16. That is correct. Up to 10A per battery will bypass the heater circuit. That means with PV solar power, you can be charging in early morning, not wasting the power. If current rises above the threshold, the battery will stop charging and turn on the heater circuit. Each battery requires 12 Amps to turn on the heater. If your PV solar can not produce enough current, the battery heater timer will start. You are also correct, there may be a period where the battery heater will not be on but the current is too high to charge the cells. This is another reason I recommend installing the auxiliar
    1 point
  17. Hello AndrewK, This is true. It is the internal temperature that matters. Just using the battery provides some internal heating that helps replace heat loss with cold ambient temperatures.
    1 point
  18. And that would cancel out any tax credit gained.
    1 point
  19. One important note: some of the batteries mentioned in this thread do not have low temperature protection.
    1 point
  20. LifeBlue's data sheet shows the heater coming on at 32°, which is more reasonable than what Oliver said. I think some clarification from @LiFeBlueBattery would be helpful regarding the need for a 120v connection when charging in the cold. I'm not really sure how that even works, I guess that the heat pack in the battery requires a certain number of amps before it will engage? Regardless, the inability to charge via solar in cold weather seems like it would be a significant limitation. Also some guidance on storage temps would be appreciated. If owners can feel safe with what Topband recom
    1 point
  21. I'm not sure where the 95F number on Lifeblue's datasheet comes from other than Topband's optimal storage conditions. If you look at the real data sheet it states: Storage Environment: < 1 Month: -20~+60℃,5~75%RH < 3 Months: -10~+45℃,5~75%RH Recommended Environment: 15~35℃,5~75%RH Charge and discharge temps: Charge: 0~45℃ Discharge: -20~60℃ Source: http://www.rechargeablelifepo4battery.com/sale-11854400-bluetooth-app-12v-200ah-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-customize-with-heating-film.html
    1 point
  22. Overland may have been one of the last to get that kind of customization. You could ask your sales rep if service would install after pickup. Some owners have added and upgraded solar om their own. Here's a link to Rideaceuces upgrade:
    1 point
  23. Just in time for my ancient AGM's to be replaced.
    1 point
  24. MaryRN - Thanks for the info! You wouldn't happen to have either GPS coordinates and/or move specific directions? Bill
    1 point
  25. Well summarized Susan. These are the reasons I'm investing in lithium - I'm certainly not investing in the technology hoping to run my A/C all night while boondocking. The reasons are really convenience (more forgiving) and cost savings over time when compared to the AGM / wet batteries. I've already conceded trying to get rid of my generator - it's not going to happen any time soon. Also, I definitely would not have gone with the Lithium package if Oliver had chosen the non-heated version.
    1 point
  26. Probably need a oversize permit to run that thing down the road.
    1 point
  27. Good point. A bad fan was my initial thought. The set point on thermostatic switch must be pretty high though. I only notice it coming on if the batteries are down a bit after a long run, and when the temperature inside the trailer hasn't yet cooled down. The odor can occur whether the fan comes on or not.
    1 point
  28. My experience is that we can get by fine without a generator, but then we don't camp in hot weather. If we know that we're going to need the AC at night, then we plan to stay at a campground with hookups. For occasional use, like the 30 minutes to an hour for a lunch stop, we do OK. We typically will run the AC for about 5 or 10 minutes and that cools the trailer down sufficiently to enjoy lunch. We'd rather eat without the racket of the AC anyway.
    1 point
  29. It does seem that the LifeBlue batteries have a narrower operating range than my Battleborns. Their recommended operating range is 24° to 135°. Actually, 24° is the temperature at which their BMS will cut off charging, as measured within the battery. So conceivably, the outside temperature could dip below that, since it would take a while for the batteries themselves to reach that temperature. To my knowledge, Battleborn doesn't have a recommended storage range, but I do know that Victron recommends -49° to 158° for their batteries, and they are generally pretty conservative with their num
    1 point
  30. That Progressive Dynamics Power Converter has a cooling fan on it. Have you heard it running?
    1 point
  31. Lithium Batteries in Cold Weather There seem to be 2 threads on this lithium battery topic (this thread and the one called "LifeBlue Battery Representative." Dean and I posted some questions about battery heating on 8/27 in the latter thread that went unanswered, but I received some relevant information from Oliver that I thought I'd share. This thread seemed like the better place to post. The LifeBlue batteries require heating when charging at less than 37°F. The only way to charge them at temperatures less than 37°F is with 120 V shore power (or perhaps generator). Shore pow
    1 point
  32. My last 2 caps were Leer. After 13 years and 150,000 miles it was evident the Cap would last as long as the truck. Highly recommend the bed rug and the Leer cap option to match.
    1 point
  33. ScubaRX ill be at your table for the high class junk should be good stuff.🛠⛓🔩🗝🔌📡
    1 point
  34. Surely the most regrettable change in the Elites was when they removed the stripper pole. 😝
    1 point
  35. And I thought owners were OTTO's😃. Mossey
    1 point
  36. +1 on the quality of Foy's work. Both items make the Oliver's interior look even richer. As a side note, my wife and I tend to shower before going to bed. We place the shower mat outside the shower and replace it when we're done. This prevents either of us risking wet feet when we get up during the night to use the bathroom.
    1 point
  37. Welcome to the forum. You are correct about your older Tundra..... the 4.7 is a great motor but it is pretty anemic for pulling the bigger Ollie, and the lack of gears makes it worse. You would probably be fine getting your new trailer home to Florida at delivery time but further explorations will require better reserves of, well, everything - power, brakes, payload and safety technology. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  38. What are Oliver Owners called? This was discussed at the rally several years ago. If I remember correctly, "Otters" was the front runner. I believe we said that the Owners rally could be called an OTTOR - Oliver Travel Trailer Owner's Rally. What does everyone think?
    1 point
  39. Hi Jim and Deb, welcome to the forum. Like Bill, I recommend a factory as well. We’ve done it a couple of times and we still learn things. Also, there will be a bunch of Olivers at Lake Guntersville State Park in Alabama the end of September. It was going to be our annual rally but was canceled due to the virus. Some of us are still planning to be there because we enjoy camping! Mike
    1 point
  40. Certainly you pick a delightful couple to have them show you the Ollie. If you ever get the chance, be sure to take the factory tour. There you will see the detail of how they are made which makes the finished product even more impressive. Let us know if you have any questions and enjoy this new journey you have embarked on. Bill
    1 point
  41. Finally got around to installing the Zamp 90 watt slender panels on the Oliver today. Very simple, just some heat shrink for the wire connections and putting the feet on the panels. I used the AmvSolar tall feet on the passenger side and the standard ones on the driver side and prepped with alcohol before applying the supplied VHB tape... seems to be very sturdy. Time will tell. Still have to tidy up the wires but a thunderstorm with lightning rolled in. The package Am Solar sells had everything included for the install except (2) Zamp SAE connections and a SAE Y-splitter. But they sell both o
    1 point
  42. This is the chart I made for our system. Divide by 2 for a typical Ollie setup: So, yeah. Realistically, if we're talking 300Ah of batteries and people people freak when their batteries hit 50%, we're talking about an hour and a half of AC use. In most situations, once you include your other uses, the average Ollie owner could plan on the better part of two days of sunlight to recoup that. Average - if it's truly mid summer, four corners, zero clouds, you could possibly get it back in a day. If it's cloudy, might be three. I've said many times - it's not magic. AC units h
    1 point
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