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We just replaced our Dometic today with the Houghton 3400 and we are very pleased with it. Exponentially quieter than the Dometic and the install, according to the tech that did it, was very straightforward. I have not used a generator for shore power yet but I have run the AC off of the (Lithionics) batteries and did so with no issue. It was suggested to me to do the install without the micro air easy start so I did not have it installed. I'll report back if I run into any issues but, as mentioned, it ran just fine today from battery power. Tomorrow I will run it with my generator to see how that goes and also check it for water leaks by simulating some rain. I just need to get the screw covers to fill the holes. I also did not need the thick roof kit. Ric Brady, I will post if I run into any cycling issues you have had. I just came in from running it for 25 minutes and there was no excessively cycling. Dropped the temp in the trailer from 83 degrees to 69 degrees in a reasonable amount of time. I need to thank all of the people that installed this same AC brand on their Olivers and subsequently posted a ton of helpful info into this thread about their installation.

The fuse is the fat part of the wiring in or near the fan assembly. The fan is also the best place for voltage, just check on both side of the fuse. The MaxxAir fan runs on the same circuit. Is it working? The thermal fuse looks like this. And if I remember correctly, it is enclosed in shrink wrap. Mossey

Don’t try it without one of these. Read my posts in this thread

I guess we never worry about our bathroom vent popping open as many times I’ll leave it open with the rear windows open a bit to let air flow through while traveling down the road.

Well my 2022 Silverado 1500 is on of the new ones with a tow pkg which includes a 377 axle and a high tow rating. I left our house in Michigan to go pick up our new Oliver after selling our 25ft Airstream on June 20th. We where load to the max in the back seat of the crew cab and some stuff in the bed . Traveled at 5 over most of the trip we averaged 66.5 miles per hour over the 694 miles when we checked into our hotel . We averaged 31.2 mph on the dash and we i topped of the tank it confirmed just a little bit better at 31.6. Picked up the trailer on Tuesday stayed overnight, load all our stuff into the trailer installed the hitch . Next morning headed home 734 miles away. This truck is a LT Crew Cab ,shortbox, four wheel drive. Got up to Nashville outside temp was 100 , on to Louisville temp 101 in stop and go traffic. Head to Cincinatti, hit a strong 30mph head windy all the way home to Port Huron MI. Averaged 16.2 on that 724 mile return trip . Compared to my 2014 Chevy 1500 with a 5.3 I got 48% better milage on the trip down and 55% better towing with the 3.0 Duramax., and that was towing the same weight with the Airstream. If i was only towing the Oliver or the Airstream both around 6500Lbs load I would have passed on the Max Tow Pkg and probably got better milage, but I do tow a boat that goes 9400 lbs so Max Tow was the only choice. Love this motor I found myself creeping up to around 78/80 mph and the Oliver towed super.

Our 2022 LEII, Hull 990, is equipped with the Lithium Pro package, which includes three Lithionics batteries. These batteries have a built-in battery management system and an iPhone/Android app which connects to the batteries via Bluetooth. I use the iPhone version, Li3 Battery, which I downloaded from the Apple App Store. The Li3 Battery app provides a great deal of information about the batteries, their charge level and general state of health. I don't know there is any additional information I could possibly need to know beyond what this app provides. Obviously you need to be within Bluetooth range, approximately 10 meters, for the app to connect with the batteries. So far, I am impressed with the capabilities to monitor the batteries.

I thought I was fairly knowledgeable about DEF, but I learned a few important things, like don’t store a spare gallon long term in more than 85 degrees or it will degrade. Here are a few interesting facts. “the typical average light duty truck will consume 2-3 gallons of DEF per 800 miles. However, most new trucks with an average miles per gallon rating of 20+mpg will go roughly 8,000-10,000 miles on a tank full (10 gallons) of DPF. Each truck is different, The only cons to DEF include the additional upfront cost to the truck, added nominal weight and some additional room to store an extra gallon of the fluid. The pros are better fuel economy, increased horsepower, more optimized combustion, fewer regenerations issues, less wear on the engine and in addition it only releases nitrogen and water vapor into the air. Manufacturers have found that engines containing SCR technology oftentimes get better fuel mileage compared with other smog reduction internal systems. Fuel mixed in with the SCR finds an added source of elements to burn. Fuel mileage can be improved by as much as 5%-7%” https://www.capitalremanexchange.com/20-facts-you-need-to-know-about-diesel-exhaust-fluid-def/ Sort of related: https://www.rvtravel.com/good-news-def-head-alternatives-coming/ None of this makes me want to buy a diesel truck….😳 John Davies Spokane WA

Do you have a fuse? If your in Florida, stop by. If not, I can send you one. Mossey

Thanks a lot Patriot! Your post was actually helpful to me so thank you again.

I would hope anyone looking at a Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel is not looking at saving money, for me it's a "Jeep Thing" and the V6 gas in a Gladiator is useless in towing the Oliver. Thanks John for your response trainman

Or - You can have a few brews and not really care about being clean.😁

Here is a free app we find very handy when deciding on fuel stops. It works great if we are traveling on the superslab which we do try to usually avoid. We typically prefer the roads less traveled. It’s called IExit.

“You can make many upgrades to your battery system, but one of the simplest and most useful is adding a battery monitor. Let’s take a look at what a battery monitor is and how it can help you get the most out of your battery system.” https://battlebornbatteries.com/what-is-a-battery-monitor/ John Davies Spokane WA

I've got the Xantrex app and the Lithionics app on my Android phone. Both work great and give me all the info I need. The Xantrex app was VERY important in my initial shakedown of the trailer when I learned that I didn't have the correct firmware. I was able to correct it via the app. The Lithionics app is very accurate in showing me how much juice I'm using, and how fast I'm recharging either on shore power or via the solar panels.

There is much to be desired in the design and operation of those brakes, especially after they get some miles on them. I suspect you have nothing wrong with the brakes since they are still relatively new. The brakes adjust themself by applying short pumps on the brake at lower speeds. I would guess it may take 15 or 20 slow speed brake applies to get the adjusters to set in correctly. You mention that the brakes seem to perform better after you had used it, and that is the self adjusters at work. The entire brake assembly inside the drum will actually try to rotate front to back inside the drum as you apply and release the brakes…….each time that assembly rotates during brake apply, a ratchet adjuster moves to shoes out towards the drum closer. This will happen until the brakes have reached their optimum adjustment and then they no longer “rotate” enough to ratchet any further. As the shoes wear, the adjuster will once again ratchet a click or two in an effort to self adjust the brakes. Under ideal conditions and when the brakes are still relatively clean, rust free, and have enough lube on the small metal pads that hold the shoes out away from the backing plate, then the brakes can work fine. My Ollie has about 25,000 miles on it and is an older model……so when I went to replace all the wheel bearings and races this past winter, I discovered my brakes were doing the same thing (unequal braking on each wheel). I quickly found out how the brakes worked and spent a good bit of time to completely disassemble the shoes, springs, and adjusters to clean and lube the points that needed to move in order to adjust. I used a good high temp silicone based brake grease on all the stamped pads in the backing plates, as well as all the contact points for the adjusters, springs, etc. The brakes are once again working fine, however I suspect that I will need to give those brakes a good inspection each time that I grease the wheel bearings. It was a bit of a puzzle for me to understand exactly how the brakes worked and self adjusted…..but one I did, it was not an extremely difficult effort to clean, lube and adjust the brakes once again. I had very little brake wear on the drums or the shoes…..but I suspect that most of the braking was done by one or two of the wheels. By the way, you can adjust the brakes manually if need be. There are a few posts from the past on how to do that. There is also an electromagnet that must be checked as well (an easy thing to do). That magnet is what actually makes the brake assembly want to rotate when the brakes are applied. I would suggest that you take your Ollie out for a low speed ride and apply the brakes a good number of times, and relatively hard apply at slow speed. This should allow each adjuster to reach its optimum point of adjustment. If i were to order a new Ollie, I would get the standard brakes and just live with adjusting them once or twice a year. That is much less complicated than the Nev R adjust brakes. In my opinion…….a very poor design. It would also be suggested that you order the small rubber dust covers/plugs to protect the back side of the backing plates where the adjusting slots are located. There are two of these slots on each wheel. In Dexters infinite wisdom, they decided not to install the rubber plugs at the adjusting slots any longer. I guess they just assume that dirt, water, etc getting inside the brake assembly is not critical. That or they just want to save about .80 cents per axle. Good luck and I don’t believe you have anything serious to be concerned about. Just do the hard brake applies a good number of times at slow speed and you should be ok. If not, then you will need to remove the brake drum and get inside each assembly to find out what is not working correctly. Steve

But, concerning The Museum of Clean, There is a great brewery right next to it. Porteuf Valley Brewing.

Now that I've installed a Houghton AC to replace the Dometic, I need to sell the Dometic but I cannot find the Dometic model number. I have looked in the owner's manual and Oliver University but cannot find the actual model number. For anyone that has a 2021 Elite 2 and you know the Dometic AC model number, would you please share it with me either by responding to this thread or PM'ing me. Thanks.

And a pretty good one too. Mossey

You are welcome, always glad to help out, just passing it forward! You both are going to really enjoy that new Houghton congrats on the install. 👍🏻👍🏻

Have you tried to twist off the brushed chrome cap that sits on top of and around the cartridge? It may be threaded onto the housing below it. On some faucets, that cap holds the cartridge in place. Try twisting the cap counterclockwise to remove it. You may need a gripper to give your hand traction, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Regent-Multi-Purpose-Gripper-Bottle-Opener/dp/B019R5TSYW/ref=asc_df_B019R5TSYW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193124190188&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1108655480944362344&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-311177149643&psc=1 DF-NMK852 looks like the correct model number for the faucet you have. If you download that owners manual, the brushed chrome cap is depicted on the parts list on Page 5, with the cartridge shown right underneath it. This suggests that the cap must be removed before you can access the cartridge to replace it. Good luck!

Lee and Terry Slusher.

The little drain hole on the exterior of the fan is the perfect size for the mud daubers. I am going to glue a little piece of screen over that now.

Thanks Mike the problem was the thermal fuse.

Thanks Mike I will check this before I order a new motor

Mud daubers built a nest freezing the fan and burnt out the motor the next time I tried the fan and left it on accidentally. I found the fuse in the attic.

I use a cutoff piece from a pool noodle, or pipe insulation, works great and does keep pressure on the vent to keep it closed when traveling. trainman

Cool! You can do the clean museum tour and discuss it over a brew. 🍻😊

Hi Jim, Welcome and congrats on your new Ollie. I know you're going to love it. I wonder if you got your new truck to go with your new trailer. I know I did. White, just like the Ollie. For some reason the Chevy has a better MPG rating with the 3.0 diesel than my GMC Sierra. I've had the same experience you described. Good mileage. And coming west on I-80 down the continental divide I did discover I was going 80 without noticing it, and immediately backed down to 70, but the Ollie tracks so well!! Just changed my fuel filter yesterday after 31k miles. It was clean as a whistle, but got replaced anyway. I've found that the computer is a little wonky on the DEF warnings, like warning me when the DEF gauge shows half full, and sometimes the gauge isn't so accurate. But I'm loving my 3.0.

Man in this case, although Stephanie was the one who noticed it was still short cycling so she gets some credit, too.

One of my first upgrades was a BTM.

I can’t comment on future hardware that might be installed… . And Oliver keeps changing their battery supplier, so I am not familiar with all the variations. I do think that Oliver should include a central monitor as standard equipment, because a battery specific app that only sees what is inside the batteries is just not good enough. John Davies Spokane WA

Made me wanna throw up watching all that. Approx 1 mile/Kw, Over an hour to get enough juice to go another 100 plus miles, having to unhook in most cases. I'll stick with our big boy diesel. I'm not really concerned about the price of fuel, I planned for this lifestyle for nearly 20 years and calculated fuel at $5.00/gal into those plans. Load up....

“Free” camping, though in fact the code of conduct requests that you to buy something to support the host, a $20 minimum purchase. If you are at a winery and don’t consume alcohol, or an air museum and don’t like airplanes, or the potato museum, or the vacuum cleaner museum, that can be a big problem. Even if you drink wine, it gets old buying more bottles or cheese than you want to consume. If they have a cafe or snack bar, you can eat there and tip well. https://harvesthosts.com/code-of-conduct/ Boondockers Welcome has no $ constraints, but the likelihood of having a poor experience is higher because these are just folks letting you park in their driveway or vacant lot. Sometimes the drive in is rough and dusty, or muddy. Because they are doing this for free, they seem to be lonely older people seeking company, who want to talk and talk and talk….. Of the two, I tend to use the BW sites, unless there is a particularly enticing commercial spot at a HH. If you join both the map shows all the locations with color coded icons. These sites do help you to save money, when gas prices are so horribly high. But they tend to be clustered along the major highways in populated areas, and if you are headed to the Nevada boonies, don’t expect to find many choices. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for all the tips! I'll report back after our next trip.

We use: 1. Harvest Host for free camping sites at breweries, winerys, farms, golf courses, etc. This is a web based site and there is a membership fee for this site. 2. Rvparky which is a web based site and free. We plan out our trip before leaving home, add in our anticipated stop locations and it will tell you the miles and extimated travel time between locations. At each stop you can click on camping locations and there is a list of a lot of camping sites listed, including Walmarts, Costco's, TA locations, rest areas, etc. 3. A Garmin 890 GPS which has camping sites and points of interest that can be accessed at each location.

@Allen Lee Rohner Yep. Always tow my Oliver in Tow/Haul Mode. As @Cameron said above, Tow/Haul mode enables the whole GM towing tech system including the trailer mileage tracker, TMPS (I have the GM sensors in the Oliver wheels), trailer circuit detection, engine braking, camera views, trans temp on the cluster, etc. I've been very happy with it. Just returned from my 3rd weekend boondocking trip in a row (Yay!) up in the mountains of Colorado. This trip I again got 18 MPG towing on 360 miles round trip so that's been consistent. DEF is more expensive now along with diesel as @Cameron said but I still feel like I made the best choice for me...deisel engines perform well at high altitude and I've towed up to and over 9-10k feet the last three weekends. It jams right up the long inclines and then the automatic engine braking is fantastic when coming back down.

We're fortunate & have a slot in door for mail. "USPS Informed Delivery" sends an email daily that has images of what's being delivered that day. All bills paid electronically so there is rarely anything important. A good friend stays at our house a few days a week. House looks lived in & she runs appliances, toilets etc. The best part is she deep cleans the house. A neighbor drives our other vehicle to work a couple days a week and parks his car in our driveway. Yard service, yes. HVAC Thermostat & irrigation controllers on wifi. Emergency contact list contains names of people we trust to make decisions re emergency house repairs. Plumber, electrician, carpenter ... Keyless entry on back door so repair people can get in. ♡ Harvest Host.

Let's tiptoe a bit, and keep this non-political? Please. And, stay on topic? Op is asking only for opinions on gladiator, gas vs diesel, as an appropriate TV for his le2.

Is what it is. Relative to the 70s, probably not so bad. We'll get through it. We always do.

Thank you everyone for your input, I do agree the Ranger is too small to pull the E2, so after additional research, and all your input, going to order an F-150 w/2.7 V6 and 3.73 axle ratio w/"Payload Package" (and use a WDH) and with this configuration this will get me up 10k towing capacity (per Ford towing guide). And with 2,480 lb. payload for the 4-door crew cab (and max 3 passengers with gear, 490 lb. tongue weight + (2) 20lb. propane, and no aluminum box) the math says this should absolutely work.... This is such a great forum here with very helpful information... Looking forward to more discussion and thanks to all for your time.. Best John

Brand new Oliver Owner here. Actually, brand new to camping! My wife and I picked up H#1014 February 1, 2022. The experience went well. After viewing the walkthrough videos over and over and over the actual walk through went very smooth and very fast. Camped 2 nights at the Oliver Camp Grounds. It was cold and rainy and I am happy to report we found no issues. Everything worked, everything opened, everything closed. We brought a small electric heater which kept it around 65 on it's own, even in 16 degree weather. I set the thermostat to 68 just to get the furnace to engage because I was worried about the pipes. I only heard the furnace click on about once an hour. We spent another week in Tennessee at a couple of state parks and campgrounds. Surprising to me, I prefer state parks! Wouldn't have thought that before this adventure. The reason for this post, however is one thing I forgot to do prior to pick up that I hope to share and save someone what I am feeling now. Don't be me, get mud flaps on your tow vehicle!! Traveling I-40 in Tennessee from Nashville to Pigeon Forge was a pot hole party, everyone was invited and only the smart stayed away. Anyway, amongst all the bug guts and dirt on the front of the trailer I found a rock chip in the fiberglass :-(. Although it's small, about the size of a pencil head, it hurts soooo bigggg! Ugh. So, my advice, don't forget the mud flaps! I hope this helps someone out. When I noticed it, I got on the Oliver Forums and sure enough, there were posts about mud flaps! Kraig

Thanks for starting this thread Kraig! I have tried the Rock Tamers, I wasn't entirely satisfied. The Rockstars look good. I think I'll try those. Thanks for the recommendation! 👍 Thanks, Kirk

Standard mud flaps help, but if you want real protection you need something more elaborate, like Rock Tamers or the Rockstar mentioned above. I’ve had regular mud flaps on all four of my tow vehicles, I’ve also got a bunch of chips! They aren’t too noticeable unless you get real close! Mike

Welcome Kraig! We pick up our E2 early September. I have been trying to decide what mud flaps would work best on our Ram 3500. None seem head and shoulders above the others. Definitely want the most protection I can find, within reason.

In an effort to reduce any nicks or dings to the front of our Ollie we had 10 mil XPEL paint protection installed on the front corners, dog house etc. I also recently custom ordered a set of these “rock flaps” for our F250 Tremor TV from a fabrication shop called livelymachine.com. I just was not overly impressed by the other brand of rock tamers or rock stoppers that mount to the hitch for a number of reasons. These rock flaps mount up underneath the bumper directly into the receiver left and right side square openings on our F250 Tremor. A really nice fit and finish and very well made with aluminum powder coated tubing and all stainless hardware. Once mounted they are not going anywhere. If you are interested in pricing and shipping costs or have technical questions about rock stoppers please contact livelymachine.com. Cheers and Happy Towing!

Hey Bill, Thank you and I appreciate it! The shake down last week went great, no issues and a clean Ollie when we got home. David note- Not recommended if your TV is an SUV. 😉😂

David, David, The SS plates and hardware are a fine finishing touch on the rock flaps, great job!

Looks like the Yukon gave your Aussie Stone Stampers the test...

David, Very nice and sturdy Rock Flaps! Great work!

Make sure hose is not twisted. It will pull out and go back in much easier. Mark these wires before you unplug them