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I'd also add that I've never had dealings with a company that is so straight forward and willing to correct virtually any issue that is their "fault" (and even some that aren't their fault). Maybe its the location, maybe its the Oliver owners, or some combination, but, it is a wonderful company to do business with in my experience. Bill

So I picked up in May. Oliver provided sewer hose, drinking water hose, water pressure regulator, sewer elbow to connect to sewer at campsite, lug wrench and power cord. You need a torque wrench for tires and that is not provided. I bought my own water regulator so I can see the pressure and use Oliver one as backup. You will also want chocks and levelers. I’d highly recommend a tire monitoring system.

What is this "minimalist camping" of which you speak?

I’m taking the same approach. I’m keeping the knock-off Timken sets and some grease in my spares/tool kit as an emergency set to use on the road if ever needed. I’ll use genuine Tinkens from an authorized distributor when all the bearings eventually do need replaced.

I do not disagree that genuine Timken bearings are probably the best and when my original bearings have seen the end of their useful life I will replace them with Timkens. However, shortly after I purchased my Ollie I wanted a "set" of all the parts that I would need in the event of bearing failure while I was out traveling. In my experience, trouble always seems to happen when I'm out in the middle of nowhere! And, even though the bearing parts for our Dexter axles are fairly "common" I wanted to make sure that I had the parts on hand in the event that whatever little town, gas station, repair shop, auto supply store, etc. were "sold out" or "never heard of those before". Certainly the sets I bought are "Made in China" but to get me back on the road until I get home - I don't care.

JD: His stove is working perfectly.... not likely a tank or regulator problem. Several days at altitude and the larger jets leads me to wonder if you have carbonized the igniter and possibly the burner tubes. Look to see if there is a lot of carbon black in the area. If so, brush and blow it out... of course with the propane turned off for safety. GJ

Most of the other truly necessary gizmos are available at Hohenwald walmart, or tractor supply. What you want to buy ahead are locks, leveling system, and whatever you like to outfit the interior. My Advice: Don't go crazy. A lot of stuff is available anywhere, and people buy a lot of unnecessary, never used stuff, ahead of time. Try out minimalist camping. Then add.

We always have the Rand McNally in the truck, but the Benchmark state atlases are our favorite resource for trip planning. For topo, I think iPhone/iPad apps are your best bet, so long as you download the maps ahead of time. Gaia and Garmin are probably the first choices, but I've just downloaded Topo Maps+ to try and it seems decent. Avenza is another - not my favorite, but I've had to use that on occasion for downloading government maps.

We, too, carry Rand McNally for look ahead. It doesn't give elevations. I've read on other forums about an atlas designed for truck drivers, that does give that info. Paper or download available. It's called Mountain Directory.

We camped across from Sean and Kristy (LOLOHO) in Gros Ventre Campground at Grand Teton National Park at the end of September in 2019. We enjoy their videos. Mike

Wow, thanks for sharing @LCTraveler. I had never thought of that as a potential outcome of overfilling the black tank although I've been careful not to so far. As @SeaDawgsaid, it will help other owners (like me) that are also using the black tank this way. I definitely will add @John E Daviesstep to my "transfer process" - I think putting the NH vent hose in the shower basin prior to transfer (or flush) as a safety precaution is an awesome idea.

Just want to confirm that we got the same stuff as TexasGuy so that you're hearing from another person that took delivery recently. Also, please remember to consider adjusting your tire pressure before you leave Oliver. It is set at 80lbs and the advice given on this site to reduce pressure to 60lbs is prudent in my opinion. Consistent with my last sentence make sure you have a tire pressure gauge with you that has an appropriate range for this type of tire.

Thanks very much for bring up this issue Ralph. It prompted me to check my support and sure enough, both bolts were in place, but nuts were loose, I could easily undo them by hand. I turned in a service ticket, and also included a link to this thread. I’m going to replace the nuts with nylon locknuts. Ive got just under 5000 miles on my 2021 trailer.

Post a pic when you get it. I’d love to see Foy’s version.

It doesn't have to be a small town, especially these days. Everyone seems to have supply chain issues. We don't carry much in the way of spare parts, but there's a bearing set under the seat. One of the few things that can really keep you "stuck" in one place. Fortunately, we've never needed it.

According to my mileage/maintenance log we have 39,050 miles on hull 208 (2017). Getting ready to add about 7,000 miles this winter.

We have around 10,000 and we picked up 837 at the end of June this year.

Hello Everyone, We only started looking at Oliver Travel Trailers a couple months ago due to a need we had in the family. After reading everything we could find and watching lots of videos we decided it was the one for us. On our way home from a 36 day driving vacation out west, we decided to get an appointment to tour the factory and talk to someone in person. We met with Anita on 9/23 for the tour and discussion. As someone mentioned earlier there were several Ollie's sitting in the parking lot awaiting pickup. However, there was also one whose owner had a major health issue and was not able to pick up his 2021 Elite II. Anita told us to take a look at it. We fell in love. It had more options than we were planning to purchase, but since it was a 2021 the cost was within our budget. We bought it! And we pick it up next Wednesday, Oct. 6. We are so excited and can't wait to take our first trip. We have learned so much from these forums and are looking forward to learning a lot more from you pros. We are totally new to camping. We both recently retired and looking forward to many years in our Oliver. Thank you all for the wonderful information you have shared. Kathy

This is one of those stories that I thought hard about sharing because it was such a great example of a classic "stupid attack". In the end though I decided if I can save someone else from themselves it was worth being forever thought of as "the guy who did that". Our 2021 elite 2 has a composting toilet partly to extend how long we can stay off grid but also because I hate dealing with black water tanks. Since my trailer still has a black water tank even though it is not used I thought it would be great if I could use it for grey water storage to even further extend times between dumps. NCEagle had developed a system to pump grey water to the black water tank through the black water flush port and I shamelessly stole his idea and put together a little kit I use to move grey water to the black tank. I have been using this system since last summer and it works great to give us a couple extra days between dumps. Last week we had just returned from a 10 day trip and as the grey water tank was starting to smell not so good I decided to do a good flush of both the black and grey since I had been using the black for grey storage. I was using the black water flush port to fill the black tank carefully watching the level indicator to make sure I didn't over fill and run water up the black water tank vent to the roof. The first flush went fine. On the second flush however in the middle of filling the black tank my wife Pam decided it was a good time to strike up a conversation and I bercame distracted untilI I looked over and noticed water pouring out of the weep holes in the bottom of the trailer suspiciously near the bathroom area. I quickly turned off the water to the black tank and muttered "Oh my God" and some other words not worthy of this audience. I ran into the trailer and into the bathroom and to my horror could see yucky water gushing out of the composting toilet. How on earth could this be! This just can't be happening! Its a composting toilet! It has no connection to the pluming system! Slowly the gushing stopped though and gave me time to scratch my little bald head long enough to reason through what had happened. What had happened was this. The composting toilet uses a vent fan and a plastic tube to vent that air out of the trailer. What I didn't realize until then was that Oliver had connected the composting toilet vent piping to the black water tank vent that goes to the roof. When I overfilled the black water tank the water had obviously backed up into the vent and found its way into the composting toilet vent piping where it ran downhill into the composting toilet until it overflowed into the bathroom. The toilet had 10 days worth of use in it at the time although at least the urine tank was empty and clean. Ten days worth of use in the solids container though mixed with a lot of water and blowing out the top like a volcano made the mother of all messes in the bathroom. After about a day and a half which included complete disassemble of the toilet and a detailed cleaning to the bathroom and venting systems it looks like all is well again. I will continue to use NCEagles great system going forward but will never again be distracted while cleaning the tanks out. Mike

Here's a pretty easy project for owners of the Nature's Head toilet - a step to make the seat a more reasonable height. It's a slightly modified version of this new step from Squatty Potty. Since it's wood, it looks a lot better than the original plastic one, and also makes it pretty easy to modify. I wanted something that wouldn't take up most of the floor, so that we could leave it out and not have to worry about where to store it, so I scribed and cut notches on the legs to match the floor offset. That way it sits flush against the toilet and leaves plenty of room. As a bonus, the factory cutout matches the front of the Nature's Head pretty well without any modification. The legs do fold, so you could use it right out of the box if you wanted, and would be relatively easy to store - or just tip it up against the toilet. But making the notches and resealing it was a simple task and I kind of like that it looks a bit custom. It's polyurethaned and the hardware is chromed, so I suppose you could leave it out when showering, but it's easy enough to just prop it up behind the shower curtain so I'm sure that's what we'll do. I wish it were stained a bit darker to match the shower mat, but I wasn't concerned enough about it to bother with the sanding and staining. For a quick, two hour project, I think it turned out pretty well, and ended up just about the perfect height.

Depending on the level of your wife's sensitivity, you may be best to watch for a clean used unit that has been stored inside.. Cushions, fabric, wiring, etc, can outgas. Fiberglass outgasses only until cured. Which is a very short time. My sister suffers from this sensitivity, as do I, to a much lesser extent. She bought a nice used rpod, a year or two old, stored inside out of season, and was ok. I get headaches, etc., from many chemicals, including epoxy and some paints. I've been ok in the Oliver. It's different for everyone, depending on what their sensitivity is. Good luck. I totally appreciate your situation.

Our TST has worked well for us. We’ve been using it on our LEII for 4 to 5 years. Mike

Thanks for sharing this. I definitely learned something. Wow. Mike

There are a number if good brands. Our TST has served us well for a very long time, and their warranty and customer service have been excellent.

You most certainly trashed the NH vent fan too, better order a new one. Add a note to your checklist, when filling that unused black tank with grey water, disconnect the vent hose from the toilet and aim it downwards..... just in case. If I ever change the black tank to a fresh tank, I will cap off that 1 1/2" vent and add a 3/4" overflow hose going out the belly, just like the OEM fresh tank has. You can't fix stupid, but you can reduce the likelihood of a major disaster.... Don't feel bad, we have all done idiot stuff. John Davies Spokane WA

I too carry an infared temp sensor but it really is no substitute for a TPMS. With regards to jacking up the trailer - against the legal advice of Oliver - I use the onboard jacks for the flat tire sort of thing. However, your comment concerning virtually any jacking of either the trailer or the truck being a very risky task is certainly on the mark. Just one of the reasons that I also have a roadside assistance plan - in the event that I do not feel entirely comfortable changing that tire, I'll simply make a call. Bill

This has been the other one on my radar as the layout suits us a bit better. So it is a tug-a-war between the layout versus the 100% molded fiber glass (screwed in cabinets just beg to come lose 🙂). Plus the Oliver egg shell aerodynamics for towing. And just the general dislike of having particle board in the trailer.

There are bunches of reviews for various TPMS on Youtube. I use and am satisfied with EEZ Tire but I know that a number of Forum members use Tire Minder and TST systems among others. Bill

These are the exact same ones I carry. Mike

If we changed this poll from "miles" to "smiles" - I bet that we'd be in the millions!

The best person to answer this question is your sales rep at Oliver (in the event that there have been any recent changes). Bill

We're placing an order with @Foy_Mirna this week. "Hint, hint" says the 5'3" soon-to-be Oliver owner! 🙂

We’ve enjoyed every minute! We picked up in the spring of 2016 so we’re at about 5.5 years. Still getting comments at various locations and still being stopped at gas stations and supermarkets by curious folks. Mike

I agree. That "built to last a lifetime" is more than a slogan. I know our trailer will outlast us, and probably our daughter, too, if maintained. Like our 44 year old fiberglass sailboat, it just keeps on going. We have no hesitancy in taking it into the wilds. Love our little Oliver.

We're well over 150K. You're gonna need a bigger poll...!

Pretty sure that they're stainless panhead screws. I keep a bunch of different sizes around to use on the trailer. In fact, I'll replace any screw I see of Olivers that isn't.

I'm in Jim's camp here -- we opted for 390 Ah lithium to reduce range anxiety and reducing the need for a generator. The batteries have served us well in this regard. We also use A/C occasionally (usually for an hour or less) at rest stops. I like the fast charging, and (hopefully) long life. When being careful, we use between 30 and 50 Ah/day, perhaps a bit more if the furnace is running a bunch. Perhaps less if we're really being careful. This gives us several days to a week or more of range, depending if on whether we're getting at least some solar charge. Using the A/C for an hour uses about 100 Ah, and the solar will recharge a good portion of that on a sunny, summer afternoon. For longer trips (e.g., cross-country) during the summer we occasionally find ourselves at plug-in sites in the evening, where we can charge if needed. In 4 months of use, we've needed a generator only one time, and that was when we ran the batteries down by accident. For us, there's a DC to DC charger in our future, a la John Davies and others. That should eliminate the need for a generator during most, if not all, of our travels. For us, the lithium batteries have served their primary purpose: reducing range anxiety. That said, I think some buyers will find lithium battery maintenance frustrating. For example, the batteries need to be cycled from charged to empty to fully charged every two months (per Lithionics rep). What's the best way of doing this seemingly simple task? Use of the A/C or space heater doesn't run down the batteries enough. Running the fridge on 12V does it, but inelegantly so. I can't even imagine doing this with the platinum 600 Ah batteries on a regular basis. The battery app needs calibration (which we learned the hard way when the batteries died but the app showed a 57-62% state of charge!). Does the app stay calibrated? Not sure of this yet. The batteries need temperature monitoring (e.g., the battery compartment gets quite warm in the summer). Etc. Etc. Etc. This is getting a bit afield from the original fridge question, but I think that Oliver could do a much better job (1) describing weaknesses of the lithium option along with potential benefits, and (2) presenting a separate, simple, user-friendly manual on how these systems work on an integrated basis. Such a user guide would draw from the Xantrex manual, the knowledge base, the battery manual (which we did not receive and is still not listed in Oliver University, but which is available on the Lithionics website) and perhaps this forum describe how to use these electrical components as a system, and what to do when encountering common pitfalls. Perhaps this forum is a good place to try crowd-sourcing such a user guide. We might all learn something in the process. I know I would. I'm generally satisfied with the lithium system, but with a better understanding (i.e., user guide for integrated system) and DC to DC charger, I could be downright pleased. Sorry for the long post....

True, but what trailer manufacturer does? Remember that B2B chargers are what's required, and while Sterling has been around the marine world for a while I think, they weren't well known in the trailer or overland community until the past few years. So the trailer world has traditionally just ignored the fact that the vehicles could't charge the batteries; just up to now the battery banks were too small for anyone to care (also, people assumed that the charge that they got from their solar while on the road was coming from their truck). Truth is, I think adding a B2B charger to either lithium package is more likely to add another layer of disappointment. Beneficial, yes; but still inadequate. I don't think that Oliver's sin is so much the lack of B2B charging, but that they aren't communicating the limited ability of either that or their solar to charge a super large battery bank. In their defense, most owners find the subject to be pretty opaque. But FYI to all potential buyers, there's a very limited use case for a large battery bank without also investing in large panels and perhaps also a B2B system; i.e., it makes sense only if you're planning to use power at a faster rate than you can recover. There is, and I can't stress this enough, no way to recharge them for continuous use, at least not one that makes sense with this trailer - Oliver's solar package will provide about 70Ah on average, and B2B charging maybe 100 for an 8 hour drive. Even on a long, sunny drive, you would only plan for 170 Ah even with B2B. Not 350, and certainly not 570, which is what would be required to recharge an exhausted pro or platinum LFP package. So, at the end of the day, either your consumption is within those charging limits (in which case, you didn't need the batteries); or you carry a generator to recharge them (in which case, you didn't need the batteries); or you use electricity with wild abandon for six days and then go plug in or run that generator for 6 hours (at least you had 6 days of quiet). I'm not saying no one should buy them; but wow, everyone should give it some deep thought before doing so. There's advantages, just few and far between.

That is a scary story, especially the reader comments, but it is no surprise to anybody who has every looked in the hidden areas of a stick and staple trailer. I had a 1988 Nash that was an unmitigated disaster and I vowed to never buy another RV. After that I had a 1990 Sea Ray 270 Sundancer boat, a “premium” brand, that was way worse. I bought “Mouse” after reading about Ollies and seeing them in the flesh. No regrets at all after five seasons. OTH Oliver still uses mostly the same crappy, built to the lowest cost appliances and suspension parts, though they are beginning to transition to better stuff, gradually. But I doubt that they could sell very many units if they ditched the propane appliances and the base price went up by at least $20k…. The only way to get a truly high quality, trouble free RV is to spend $300k on something like a Terranova or a Nimbl. The latter was originally XP Camper, and like so many other niche manufacturers of very high quality RVs, they went bankrupt after three or four years with no warning. It is really really hard to sell real quality here in the USA. Most buyers, bring uneducated and for the most part unmotivated to research the details, want cheap units, three slideouts and electric faux fireplaces. Nothing else matters. Then they cry in the forums when the water pours in and they disintegrate before their eyes on the first trip. What the RV industry does not want is consumer protection lemon laws and motorhome crash safety standards. It would literally destroy it. I don’t understand why they are completely exempt. Yay Oliver! I will replace the crap as it fails with better marine grade stuff. The bones - the hull and frame - are top notch. John Davies Spokane WA

Based on positive reviews from John Davies who started this thread, I’ve been using the TT600 since May. Works great! I was getting alarms every 1/2 hour or so, so I hooked up the booster, no more alarms. I broke the tiny antennae (my fault) and they sent me a new one no charge. Great Customer Service. I’ve got 6 sensors, using one on TV spare as Geronimo John recommended early on. There are plenty of reliable TPMS available, I’m pleased with the one I have,

When I first got the Ollie, I used to raise the RV, when attached to the TV, with the trailer jack to put some slack in the chains as others have said above. This did not work all the time and I usually had to loosen the chains connected to the whale tale and then retighten the chains after hooking up. Now before hooking up to the trailer, I raise the trailer bull dog up high enough so I can back up (the 2" ball) past the bull connector of the trailer. This gives plenty of slack in the chains so I can hook up the whale tale with no problem. I then slowly drive the TV forward enough to when the chains are tight and I can then lower the trailer onto the 2" ball.

FYI I got e coli fun from drinking water at Tumalo State Park in Oregon some years back. The morning after our first day there, they put up a "boil water!!" notice on all bathrooms and water taps. I saw it after a morning of writhing in cramp ridden agony due to the water I'd drunk the day prior. A hydrogeologist friend who does groundwater work for the state of Washington told me that in her experience State Park water supplies are dodgy. She explained that their systems are big enough to be tricky to keep clean but too small for them do have a dedicated water system expert dealing with the potential issues. So they are in a sweet spot for infected supplies, and she's seen multiple cases in WA state parks. I asked the ranger I saw later that morning at Tumalo how often they test, and she said "once a month, but don't worry if you were drinking water before today as we didn't see a positive result until this morning!" Remember that they'd not tested for a month before that morning, so this gives you an idea of how clear the logic can be on the part of the folks responsible for keeping these supplies in good shape. Thankfully the sort of e coli you will tend to get from this sort of water supply is NOT typically as bad as the stuff that kills people who eat lettuce at fast food chains etc. It only makes you have digestive fun for many months on end afterwards. Suffice it to say I do not drink unfiltered state park water any more. You can pay more elsewhere for more heavily marketed systems as I mentioned above, but I got one of these (you can likely create something similar from parts from a HW store for even less but I found buying this fully set up to be worth a small premium). I use this for both filling our drinking water jugs as well as filling our Oliver's tank from any supply I'm not fully confident of. I'm still wary of drinking significant amounts of water from my Oliver tank given the taste. We use portable jugs for our drinking water (including coffee) and use the Oliver tank water for showering and dishwashing etc. I have wondered if one of these systems ($$$!) would both remove the plastic flavor as well as protect against any critters my amateur sanitizing regimen might still allow to exist in the system. I know that a pitcher or something like the Berkey would cost less but damn it's convenient to be able to just get clean fresh drinking water from a faucet and it looks like I might be able to fit this in under the sink. And it doesn't appear to have too big a power draw. Could even be put on a switched line to eliminate any phantom draw... BTW I like a system that filters both particles and has a carbon element for filtering out at least some chemicals (including chlorine!). I have such a system under my sink at home that feeds a separate filtered water tap, and the water for sure tastes better than what comes from our tap, especially in warmer months when they seem to increase the chlorine load in our water supply.

Ok - I used to drink out of the garden hose, so my brain may already be damaged...just saying. RO systems are great - but require super good pre-filters and lots of power. We opted for cartridge style filtration. Here is what we are planning to use. We are not water sanitation experts and this is a very confusing topic for those of us who aren't - pore size vs. charged particle capture, carbon vs. nanofilament, NSF/ANSI certifications and their actual meaning.... This is coupled with the fact that each of our bodies are different in terms of what they can tolerate - I have a buddy that can drink pond scum no problem. Long gone are my days of drinking straight from a spigot or garden hose with my aged gastrointestinal tract!

Three filters: 20 micron from Camco plus 5 micron and 0.5 micron from Beech Lane...then regulator....but internal consumption is in case of emergency only. We carry separate drinking/cooking water. Overkill? Not sure, but I've had several really bad experiences from international travel. So, I don't mind a few bucks and 5 minutes of setup.

@Galway Girl, did you add that pretty two function pull down faucet, or is it standard in the new trailers? We capture and store rainwater, at home. We have a multi-stage filter system, ending with .5 micron to the kitchen only, plus uv treatment. We don't filter water to the toilets as extensively, just down to 5 microns. Our home plumbing is on a branched system, with every run having its own shutoff. RO wastes more water than you get, unless you contrive some kind of fancy recapture system. I bought my mom an Alexapure (big, like a big Berkey), and a small Pur pitcher (with the plus filter) for drinking water and cooking. She actually prefers the water from the Pur, and, so do I. I have a calendar for changing the filters on my phone. The filters are relatively inexpensive, and even though they're a bit wasteful, it's more eco-friendly than bottled water. Like many others, we carry water from home, and on long trips, refill jugs and the tank from trusted sources, only.

For drinking water, we've found that no matter how hard you try to keep the Fresh Tank clean, there's always the chance that things will grow in the tank, especially in the hot summer weather. So our regimen is to clean the fresh tank 2x per year, and for the fresh tank, we always use a 2 or 3 stage filter for water going INTO the tank, and for all drinking water we use a countertop Berkey Travel Size (1.5 Gal) System . The Berkey sits right beside our sink and provides plenty of water each day for 2-4 people. You can check out water filters at the Amazon Oliver Trailer Outfitters list here: https://amzn.to/2mAAgPO Here's our travel blog for other tips and mods you may find interesting: https://4-ever-hitched.com The Travel Size (1.5Gal) Berkey fits perfectly on either the counter next to the sink, or also on the Bathroom Counter. Clearsource (and Amazon) sell two and three stage high flow rate filters that include both a Sediment Filter and a Carbon Block filter for removing chemicals and improving the taste. These filter frames fit perfectly inside the side storage bay. Two stage Clearsource Filter holder shown in side bay. Filters removed to reveal plenty of room in back for 2 large milk carton containers (6 Gal and 4 Gal). and a small 1.5 Gal Bucket.

Good news QM ! I am happy that you have got to the bottom of this and will soon be getting the issue corrected. I am relieved to know that my Elite will have more than a half inch suspension clearance. I will check this upon delivery to ensure lightning did not strike twice 😉.

Elite I Oliver Owners, Jason confirmed with their QC/Engineering department that the LE1 trailers should have 1.5" of upward travel. Therefore the upward travel on our trailer was not within the design specs. Jason offered to have our trailer inspected by their shop or a local provider to determine what might be our issue. Upon further discussion with Jason and a few more photos sent to him, we quickly determined the source of our issue was the incorrect Dexter Heavy Duty Kit Shackle was used on our single axle setup. The correct shackle kit (K71358) has shackles that are 4 5/8" in length whereas ours was the shackles you would have used on a dual axle trailer with a length of ~ 3 5/8". Ergo, our trailer is sitting ~ 1" lower that it should. I requested he send me the correct kit with new bolts, nuts, bushings, and shackles for me to install sometime next week. My best guess is someone in the factory just picked up the wrong shackles and installed. I am sure Jason will provide them with the feedback required to establish a QC process that inspects this area so it never happens again. I would however, recommend other 2020 LE1 owners out there inspect their shackles to ensure the correct ones were used on their trailers.

I thought I would post these pics to educate folks who don’t fully understand the suspension.... The shackles provide front to rear motion as the springs compress and extend (since their length changes). On a single axle setup there is one at the back, and it points down from its hanger (bracket). On a tandem setup there are two in the middle at the equalizer unit, and they point up. So on a single axle, if you install longer shackles it will lift the trailer frame up further away from the axle, increasing the clearance, but the opposite happens with the tandem, the clearance would actually be reduced. So it is really important to mention which model trailer you have when talking about this stuff. And this shows what a “spring over axle” conversion does.... The SOA mod provides around 5 “ of lift (using the original axles) and also a huge increase in frame clearance, so it is necessary to install rubber bump stops to protect the springs from damage from travelling too far. When you do the mod, if you instead buy new axles with a 2” or 4” offset upwards, you can decrease the lift without actually altering that wonderful gap at the tube. So you could end up with an Ollie that is lifted 1” or 3” over the stock height, with tall progressive bump stops. John Davies Spokane WA

Thought I would add my completed curtain rod project. I used Overland's style so the rod would be a little higher to decrease the chance of another mark on my bald head. I drilled a 1/16 inch pilot hole, used a countersink to smooth hole to a little bigger that 5/32 inch. Then drilled a 5/32 inch hole in center of countersink. 5/32 inch is the suggested pilot hole for a # 10 machine screw. Sealed everything with 3M 4200. The machine screws worked perfect with no cracking of gel coat and everything pulled up tight.