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Steve & Mary Allyn in San Antonio here, introducing ourselves to the group. Delivery of our LE II is just a few weeks away. It's supposed to hatch November 29. We had been considering an Ollie for a couple of years when last January we saw one by chance up close during a rest stop on a road trip. Its build quality and design aesthetic sells itself. We placed our order in February. As owners of a classic GMC motorhome we're not new to RV'ing, but this our first travel trailer. The LE II is a bit smaller inside than our GMC, but we're already familiar with a wet bath and small walk around space. We've enjoyed following this forum as our egg has been incubating. Thank you to the many contributors of the interesting and useful posts on this forum. The collective wisdom is awesome. We hope we'll soon be adding our experiences and ideas to benefit the community.

Hello all! We recently picked up a "new to us" 2010 Elite II (hull #45) and couldn't be happier to finally be part of the Oliver family. Outside of needing a thorough detailing, she seems to be in excellent shape for the year, and came with a mountain of service records. It's been crazy the amount of Facebook private messages we've received on our Ollie.. Everything from "it's a scam, they didn't make an Elite II in 2010" to "must be a prototype", and that it being Hull #45 it "must be the last one made before production shut down in 2009 because only 45 total were made up to that point".. whatever the story is, we love it and look forward to making it our own over the next few months by adding solar, new flooring, LED lights, etc. Looking forward to being part of this forum, to educate ourselves, and to hopefully able to contribute where we can. Chris and Chris Some pics of our Ollie https://photos.app.goo.gl/YGDFPmbSwGrzozVBA

Our composting head when used per manufacturer’s instructions requires no additional chemicals. We have found that thoroughly wiping food residue off dishes and pans prior to washing them and using a fine strainer in the galley sink drain eliminates much of the organic material which could decompose and cause odors. When we return home I have been adding a small amount of Camco grey tank odor control to the traps. I usually drain the grey tank into the yard and it’s usually pretty neutral odor-wise with some slight frothiness from dish and hand soap.

Congratulations on your new-to-you Oliver. You will enjoy upgrading it the way you want it and will love camping in it!

Thank you! I had a feeling we had something of an oddball, and you're right, not much has changed! There are some slight differences that I can see, though.. Hot water tank location (at the expense of drawer space inside) round reverse lights, switch panel, and probably a few more differences that a trained eye could see.. I added a link of some pics to my post.

Chris’s, welcome! Looks like you got a collectors item with Hull 45. Here we are in 2021 and side by side folks would be challenged to tell any difference between yours and a new trailer rolling out of the factory. It would be interesting to know if after you detail it, or get it detailed if the shine comes back! Mike

I’ve shown our trailer a couple of times in the last month or so. Once at home and once while camping. My risk assessment is that the risk is very low. We enjoy meeting like minded people and being able to help folks in their decision making process. YMMV. Mike

A few years ago, I conducted a similar experiment (and posted it on the forum), comparing black and gray water tank treatments using dog poop. In that experiment, TankTechsRx came out the winner over the other product (I’m sorry, I no longer remember that other product’s name), as it did a much better job of reducing the odor. I recently encountered another treatment with very good reviews, so I bought a bottle of it—Unique RV Digest-It—to compare with my TankTechsRx. The experiment was this: I mixed a capful of each product with water to nearly fill a small glass, and then I placed five pieces of small dog food kibble in each glass and let them sit. The photo showing the glass with the brown colored liquid is the one with TankTechsRx product, which is naturally brown. Result: Within 12 hours or so, the Unique RV Digest-It had reduced the kibble to a sludge at the bottom of the glass, whereas the glass with the TankTechsRx still held solid chunks of kibble. The odor was also different, with the TankTechsRx glass smelling a bit funky, while the Unique RV Digest-It glass had a faint, but rather pleasant, almost floral, smell to it. I will be using Unique RV Digest-It from now on in my gray water tank. We have a composting toilet, so we don’t use a black water tank. However, we have been spraying a mixture of water and TankTechsRx in our composting toilet, which has seemed to help with the composting process and odor control. I will now be trying the Unique RV Digest-It in the same way, expecting good results. I would surmise from my experiment that Unique RV Digest-It would work well in a black water tank and accomplishing what it advertises: 1. BREAKS DOWN SOLID WASTE INSIDE TANKS. Liquifies human waste and all brands of toilet paper. Digests residual sludge from years of build-up. Works in black and gray tanks. 2. ELIMINATES TOILET & TANK ODORS without masking. Extra strength activated cleaners eliminate odors at their source without covering them with overpowering perfumes. 3. HELPS PREVENT SENSOR MALFUNCTION. Cleans and removes solid waste and paper before it can cling to sensor probes, preventing misreads. No, I have no association with either company. Yes, I suggest others give Digest-It a try.

We're keeping the GMC. It's a 1975 Glenbrook that was refurbished in the '90's by Clasco. The exterior paint and interior cabinets are in dire need of a refresh. The Onan 6000 is also a bit of a temperamental beast. The mechanicals are solid, with low miles on the engine and transmission, both rebuilt less than 10 years ago. It will be a long time before it's where we want it be. That's where the Ollie comes in. Our camping plans are no longer going to be determined by the the state of the GMC.

Chassis

In response to your questions, John, I chose the McHitch on the Kimberley and a Rhino hitch on the tow vehicle. I’ll tow it with a Ram 2500 diesel. Because of the passage of time, I’m sure the price for mine is not the price you’d pay today if you ordered a T3. I paid Kimberley $9500 for shipping from Australia and I think their cost to ship was around $17,000. All in, mine was around $155,000 plus the $9500 shipping charge. A lot of money, but it’s worth that amount of money to me. I think I have some chassis photos—I’ll see if I can dig them up and post them. Thanks for the tip on the Stone Stomper. Warranty claims will be handled by Kimberley USA—David Bates’ company in Ohio. He’s building a dealer network too. The company in Utah that was a big Black Series dealer dropped the Black Series and is all in with Kimberley. I’ve dealt with David Bates before—he sold my Conqueror to me. He is absolutely committed to supporting those of us who purchase Kimberleys. He’s an automotive engineer and a very skilled technician.

I am in no way knowledgable or skilled enough to tackle this mod on my own which is why I contacted Oliver in the first place. The previous owners of my trailer did not use it boondocking and probably had no idea that 10 to 12 gallons of water wasn't available or was being done under warranty. Because the Ollie sat during their unfortunate illness, they never knew to have it corrected. I'm a bit miffed as I think my trailer should be grand fathered in! Seeing as I've already shown my trailer to two prospective buyers, I'd like to think this would be sort of prudent for them to do.

I’ve been looking for some time to have a security camera above the entry door. Most wireless cameras are not wireless they still need a power wire. I also didn’t want to drill holes and fish wiring though the hull. Roaming around Walmart I spotted this back up camera by Whistler. The camera is totally wireless and once fully charged via USB it has built in solar to keep the battery maintained. The monitor is 4in and plugs into a 12v outlet. With a suction cup mount. Looking at the picture on the box it looked like it would be a perfect fit above the entry door. The purchase price was $100,00 I rolled the dice if it didn’t fit perfectly it was going back. I did a Amazon check it appears this model is only sold at Walmart. The reviews on the whistler models were mixed good and bad. Once the camera was charged I turned on the monitor within seconds the picture appeared. Very nice color image it has inferred for night time haven’t try it yet. Very few features it is not a continuous on you can choose 20 sec to 120 sec on then auto off plenty of time to see who is outside your door. Also no audio or recording capability. Simple setup no frills. Mounting the camera I used Scotch outdoor heavy duty Velcro very secure. Very happy on the looks of the camera attached to the hull above the door it looks like a factory installed option. The Big question?? Will it last, does anything these days? It’s the $100.00 question. We shall see I'll give a review in 6 month’s the warranty is good for one year. attached are the photos of the install.

Installed 3M film of the front corners yesterday. Couldnt get in to a shop to have the whole lower front wrapped before leaving for a trip so this will have to do for now. ordered a 12”x72” roll of 3M film from Amazon and decided the area directly behind the truck tires was the most important to protect. Cut the sheet in half and installed as shown (if you look close you can see the inner edge), vertically from the belly seam down. I’ll report back on how well it works on this trip. Depending on the results it may as it is or Ill order a sheet large enough to do the entire front, lower half. Total cost was $25 plus about an hour of my time.

I'm super excited tonight, because my best camping friend of many decades is here. We started tent camping, (in the 70s), did motorhome camping together, and last 14 years, travel trailer camping together, in separate trailers, on so many amazing trips. We both share other camping friends, and stories. It's a wonderful time swapping stories, and being back together. Tomorrow, newer friends (only a decade or so) will join us. It will be awesome, no matter the weather. We'll miss some other friends who couldn't make the trip this time. I truly treasure the friends I've made camping here, and around the world, and north America. We'll be missing you, @bugeyedriver and @JuniorBirdMan, this trip. We'll photoshop you into the group photo.

Greetings from the Swamp, where we seek to escape summer by meandering north! I'm a life-long camper but I am a novice for trailer life and everything associated with towing and setup. I was very lucky to see an Oliver in person last year, and I'm in line for production of a '22 model -- not quite decided but leaning toward the Elite II because I prefer long trips (I've been tent camping for months at a time, traveling both by bicycle and by automobile in the past.) I think Boondocking might be fun. I love being in remote places, with dark skies and quiet. However, the smaller model might be more appropriate for me, due to easier towing, easier storage (I will have to pay to store, due to homeowner association rules) and also to lighten the load and hopefully result in a less expensive and more manageable truck. (I'm feeling somewhat doubtful about people telling me an F150 can easily handle a loaded Elite II -- but maybe I'll be surprised!) I'm very glad that Oliver has this Forum -- I'll be working to educate myself, beginning with the truck I need -- I have plenty to learn and this looks like the place to be! Cheers all --

Basically the plates in a 6 volt battery can be (and usually are) larger that those found in the same (exterior) size 12 volt battery. This is due to the fact that since you only have 3 "cells" inside the 6 volt versus 6 "cells" inside the 12 volt battery there is simply more room to put larger plates. Larger plates usually equate to longer life and a battery that will withstand rougher treatment. There's more but I don't think you want to hear it at this point.😁 Bill

Congratulations! Having one of those first Ollies is pretty special. Paula

I've been using a NOCO Genius for the past two years to maintain 12 volt batteries in my garage over the winter. It is very simple and easy to use. Just wire up as JD describes above and basically forget about it till Spring. Bill

Greatly appreciated and very useful for this novice -- thank you for sharing the file.

Just hook two of them to each other in series, using the Oliver jumper cables. Positive to negative. That will make each pair appear to be a single 12 volt battery, then use a 12 v AGM charger setting. Attach the charger leads to the appropriate terminals, the ones without the jumpers. Does that make sense? Charge that pair, and then the other pair. Or if you have shelf space, and if it can handle the weight, you could even connect them into the configuration that they have in the trailer, then it will appear as a single ginormous 12 volt battery. As long as you have a ginormous charger…. I would do them in pairs, for simplicity… plus I don’t have a shelf that will carry that load. Since you will have them out of the trailer, the next part will be really easy. In the spring, charge them fully, let them rest over night, and take them to a battery store like Batteries Plus Bulbs. Have them do a free load test, that is the ONLY way to determine the health of AGMs. They will come out to your vehicle and test them, you don’t even have to carry them inside. I would look for at least a 5 amp charger, that way you can bring it along on trips as a backup, in case your solar or onboard charger goes Tango Uniform. Or the battery in your truck. It could save your vacation…... I have one of these, 7 amps, and it has been great. I do not know about the NOLO ones, but do buy a quality brand. Cheap chargers are not reliable or precise. A good one will perform better and last a long time. This model will maintain a pair, but not four. It would charge them fully from a discharged state, but that could take a very long time. I would make sure yours are fully charged by the trailer before removing them for storage. CTEK charger They do make a 25 amp model but it is at least $320. What is your budget? John Davies Spokane WA

We only use dawn dish soap in our sinks (a great grease cutter) and grey tank and as others have mentioned wipe clean any dishes utensils or before washing them. Really only “Truma hot” soapy water goes down the drain. We occasionally use the camco grey tank valve lube in both tanks. So far so good.

I think what I have is the Easy Start. It’s the one that was being installed at the early rally’s. I had Oliver install mine a few years ago. Mike

I used the term "soft start " as the generic term. Most recently, when we added Tesla whole house batteries, we changed up to "soft start" on home ac unit. There are a number of brands. I know most people here use the micro air product. Sorry for the confusion.

Let me add my congratulations to John’s and Sherry’s. This is a good place to find answers to what you are wondering about. Glad to have you! Mike

try Les Schwab

I would encourage you to look at the difficulty of refilling and recertification of composite tanks. And, weigh the benefits. We have a difficult time in our area,,refilling composite tanks. Drop down to steel 20# tanks, easy peasy. Just my thoughts. There are places that will fill composite tanks that aren't on the map, but they are few and far between, in our experience. https://www.vikingcylinders.com/support/find-filler/ We use our composite tanks on the boat, where propane use is minimal.

We have many raw newbies join up, and I always try to remind them, try before you buy! If you have never towed anything before, rent or borrow a small trailer, even a 10 foot U haul, and tow it all over the place for a week or two. Renting a travel trailer is better, because that will introduce you to all the fairly complicated electrical and plumbing systems. That will teach you whether or not you can adjust to the new situation, it can be intimidating for some people. Do you in fact already have an F150? If so, it might be all you need, as long as it is 4wd and no more than a few years old. The newer trucks have many towing and driver assist safety features that will help you to be comfortable on those long trips. Even an old truck will work for an LE1, though eventually you will probably want to get a more capable one. Finally, if you can, See An Ollie, both models, to get a feel for the size differences. You may decide that you just prefer the extra space of the big one, and can live with its few drawbacks.. John Davies Spokane WA

Thank you everyone for all the words of wisdom and for sharing your experience(s)! We have a much better understanding now on what to expect and also moving forward how to mitigate some of our tongue weight to safely travel with our new PW tow vehicle and Oliver. We are looking into composite propane tanks, not getting the front storage basket (didn't have it on the original order), sticking with getting the rear hitch for our bicycles (we love to bike) and have a much better idea on how we want to load our Oliver so as to lighten the tongue weight. So much to learn but, we feel as though this forum has given us such a great supportive team of experts, with lots of experience to ease us safely into our (first-time) towing adventures. Again, thank you or as we say here on the island, "Mahalo!" M&K

Welcome to the forum. The smaller Elite is indeed an ideal boondocking trailer. We've used and enjoyed ours as a couple for 14 seasons. You won't even know it's behind your f150. We've towed ours with two different half tons, my Silverado, and my husband's Ram 4x4. I can carry food for at least two weeks for 2, so you should be fine. Good luck in your decision. Lots of folks here to answer your questions.

Drilling is very simple, just get a bit the same exact size as your pin, do NOT go larger! That is not needed and will just make things too loose, the tight fit is needed for the ball to work correctly… There may be a slight misalignment or burr, and a bit the exactly same size as the pin will clean that up nicely. make sure the other pin is installed and lift up very slightly on the bumper to center the holes. My pins are 3/8”, double check yours, but I expect that is correct. A 3/8” bit will be found in most basic drill bit sets. If you don’t already have one, this set is quite nice for emergencies and fits in a galley drawer neatly. I also carry a Dewalt cordless drill and 1/2” impact driver when travelling, but that may be too anal for you. 😬 If you drill the holes with that bit and the pin still doesn’t go in, then you should replace it. There is either something wrong with the ball detent or it might be bent. You could try straightening a bent one using a bench vise and mallet, but there isn’t much you can do if the ball is messed up. John Davies Spokane WA

I recently changed over to a Calgon water softener and Pine Sol (lemon!) mixture (GEO variant) for both tanks. We spritz the toilet with a white vinegar/water mixture after each use (spray bottle). So far, so good.

Our #381 was picked up September 2018 and is at 40,000. Now that we live by our son, he has decided to add more miles to the Oliver with his family.

Link to Catalog A lot of great ideas and craft have come together to get this catalog update ready. New products, new choices in wood, and new finishes to match Oliver’s décor options. I have used the most common questions about my craft to layout this catalog and help you decide what your style is and fits your needs. I now have a new email address for orders and questions – FoyablesInWood@gmail.com. Lastly – as we all have seen around us my prices have increased. Everything from wood, finishes, supplies, and freight has jumped in the last 4 months. If you have an order place with me, your grandfathered into the old pricing. All orders from October 1st are under this new pricing structure. Onward, Foy 517933762_FoyblesCatalogV3.1f.pdf

We are at 6,800 after 7 months of ownership. Not retired yet so limited on how many/how long trips can be.

We have 57,800 miles on our 2016 (hull 137.)

If we changed this poll from "miles" to "smiles" - I bet that we'd be in the millions!

Share and Enjoy !Shares Photography Tips for Mobile Phone Imagine this, the light is perfectly shining onto the rolling hills defined with woodland vegetation spread across the landscape. As the clouds build to a fluffy white peak in the sky, they nestle your bright sided new Oliver Travel Trailer. With the availability of mobile phones with high quality cameras taking great photos of things you love is possible. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you get better photos while on your travels. With a camera accessible at your finger tips and able to be carried with you at all times, there is not a part of your travels you will forget if you can capture it with a picture. Framing Framing a photo is one of the first things to look at when beginning to take a photo. The term framing comes from what the camera will capture when the film is exposed. Modern camera and phone cameras do not rely on film. In fact, there are a lot of helpful tools that can allow framing to be an easier task. Most modern cameras on a smart phone will display a 3x3 grid. This is an essential tool for good framing of a photo. Apple and Android phones: Setting>Camera> activate “Grid Line” The most common display will be a 3x3 grid, to use this tool properly, place your subject at the intersection points of the horizontal and vertical lines. The human eye naturally is directed to that point on a photo. Lighting One of the most important elements to great photo is light. After almost a year of photographing for Oliver Travel Trailer, I have learned that there is a thin line between too much light and not enough light in some circumstances. The Ollies ultra-bright white gel coat in some lighting situations be frustrating. Too much light and it will over expose your photo and you will be left with a bright egg in the photo. With not enough light the trailer can look dull and grey. A solution for this problem is to reducing the amount of light. Place the sun behind an object (ex. a tree, the trailer, cloud cover, etc.) By dampening the sun’s brightness, it can reduce the reflection from the trailer. To increase the light, you can take the photo with the sun behind you. This will reduce shadows and allow available light to fall onto the trailer making it look brighter. In your phone camera, you can also correct some of these issues. Normally, when taking a photo, it will automatically adjust to the available light you are in. But you can control the camera. After framing up your shot, if you touch the screen, it will focus the camera, and a trick many do not know is that by swiping up or down next to the focus icon you will be able to control the level of exposure in the photo. Zoom with your feet Some photos are best to zoom in, or close the distance to your subject. One of the downfalls for a modern smart phone is the zoom feature is not an authentic zoom. By zooming in on your mobile phone camera, it will enlarge and crop available pixels. This will create distortion and you will lose photo quality. My best advice is to zoom with your feet. The closer to the subject you can get will improve the quality of your images. Be cautious with this tip, pay attention to your surroundings. Digitally zoomed in from far away Closer to subject Your own style No one can be you, or have your own style, or appreciate the beauty you imagine. So, embrace your own style, your own travels, and what inspires you. You do not have to copy others work or creations to be good at taking pictures. Finding inspiration to start a creative process can be important, but feeling like you have to produce the same images can be overwhelming. Take the time to be yourself and live in the moments you are in. Just a few quick tips to pack with you on your next adventure. If you are like me, capturing where your travels take you and sharing them for others to see can be a highlight to the trip. Taking a few extra seconds to look, frame, and adjust a photo before taking it can make all the difference, so be patient and soak in the beautiful vistas that are in front of you. Share and Enjoy !Shares The post Capturing Travels appeared first on Oliver Travel Trailers. Read the Full Article

And, old Oliver owners (I hope).

I am wanting to get a rear view Camera. I know that Oliver sells the Furrion Vision S, The Furrion seems to be the defacto on RV/trailers. I have talked with other friends with non-Oliver campers. So far a common themes are connection issues, large lag of video. Before I just go out and spend the money on a Furrion I want to make sure it will actually work properly. What is everyones experience with their Furrion? I also saw another camera, Haloview. Has anyone installed a Haloview on their Oliver? Some of Haloview products have a installation much like the Garmin where the Camera communication antenna is wired to the front of trailer, to shorten the distance and interfering walls to talk with the monitor. This greatly decreases lag times and stops connection issues/dropped signal. What other brands has anyone used? successfully? I would prefer to not to have to do a hardware from the cab monitor all the way back to the camera. I am also driving an older Ford SuperDuty without the newer camera solutions. Thanks.

What gear is that? And what Oliver model? With my Land Cruiser six speed and 3.90 axles, I tow in fourth and that is about 2500 rpm. It won’t stay in fifth without downshifting at every slight hill. Your Tundra has much lower gearing (4.30) so fifth might be fine, but I think Toyota recommends towing in fourth, not the overdrive gears. The engine doesn’t make power down low, the torque peak on my truck is 2800 rpm. As long as it holds the selected gear without constant shifting, no worries. Otherwise it really heats up the transmission fluid, which is a big no-no.. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

John, Before buying our LE2, we towed a 2000lb aluminum travel trailer out west a couple times from NC with a 2013 4.0L Nissan Frontier. Best fuel economy I could get with this rig was 13.5MPG. Called this trailer a lightweight aluminum brick because of the lack of aerodynamics. The Trailer Frontal rating for the 2013 Frontier pickup was 60sf. When we purchased Ollie in Missouri, towed Ollie home with the Frontier and could not believe the fuel economy @ 15MPG to NC (checked by actual gallons burned) with Ollie over double the weight of our previous camper. In 2014 the trailer frontal area dropped on the 2014 4.0L Frontier to 30sf with same engine and pickup frontal area. Believe these changes were made due to SAE J2807 towing methods. If you look at 2014 Ford towing brochure, if I read it correctly, even the F-550 Super Duty is restricted to trailer frontal area of 60sf, page 13: https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/dam/aem_fleet/en_us/fleet/towing-guides/Ford_Linc_14RVTTowGuide.pdf This is a good discussion on the FGRV forum on the same topic during 2016: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/trailer-frontal-area-77307.html

You thinking this:

We are what I would call minimalist campers, that is we carry only what we are going to use where we are going camping. Things like a Clam, bicycles, extra chairs, small extra heater, fans, are all items that are either taken with us, or not depending where we camp. We have other camping friends that take everything every time and much of it is never unloaded and used. It's just like spare parts, you can get carried away on this, I personally just take tools to handle most repairs and if something goes bad I just go to town and purchase what is needed to make temporary repairs, or a complete repair. We do not Boondock, so for those who do I can see you might carry more stuff, but it's not for us. trainman

When considering a tow vehicle the first number most folks look at is towing capacity. While this is important it's not all there is to it. One needs also to look at the vehicle's cargo carry capacity or payload capacity (CCC/PC). This is all the cargo weight that you can safely add in addition to your truck’s empty weight (also known as curb weight) including passengers. There are loads of information on the net explaining this and I won't try to duplicate it here. The easiest way to find what your particular vehicle is capable of carrying is to look inside the driver's side door for a yellow and white "tire" sticker. Look at the line that states "The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed..." All the information on your vehicle's sticker will different than that of this example. But the stated CCC/PC is exactly correct for your vehicle as it was delivered from the factory. You have probable added a few items since you acquired your vehicle. Cell phone, charger, sunglasses, GPS, floor mats, hitch and ball mount, you see where this is going. Every ounce and pound comes out of that CCC/PC. Our Silverado 2500HD has a CCC/PC of over 2100 pounds. Prior to leaving for the Rally, I weighed every item going into the truck. I was over the CCC/PC by 200 pounds, not including the sunglasses and the cell phones. I am including here actually weights (to the nearest pound) that I recorded of my camping gear that I know many of you carry. 52...Andersen Hitch (I don't use, weight from the net) 40...Clam 5...Yellow Blocks 19...Zero Gravity Chair (each) 9...Bass Pro Chairs (each) 6...Patio Rug 21...Weber Grill 20...Extendable Ladder (10 foot) 20-40...Ball Mount and Hitch 200-250...Topper ???...Occupants and Pets 600-700...Tongue Weight ???...Tools 40...Extra Propane for grill or fire pit ???...Table ???...everything else you think you can't live without Add these all up and be prepared to be amazed at how much it all weighs. Just your tongue weight and occupants will probably get half of your CCC/PC. And remember, if you're in an accident and some slick lawyer decides you might have been overweight - and you were, don't be surprised if your insurance company tells you that you are on your own. Pray that you haven't hurt or killed anyone.

We are constantly changing what we carry depending upon the trip. Since we're preparing for a 9 month road trip, I thought I would take a moment to categorize the items we have to carry and put it into an XLS and share that with the forum. Here's the OVERVIEW total weight of what is in the truck bed. If you want to see what makes up that weight...the XLS is attached listing details like Bikes, Generator, Camp Chairs, etc. The full xls is attached which lists all the items and their individual weights. We plan on scrubbing the contents before we start our 9 month road trip. truck manifest.xlsx

Hello all: I just purchased my Ollie in November and I love it. Unfortunately I found out that the place I have it stored had a trailer theft last year. I'm trying to put good security on it remotely- the storage people will install for me. I went through all the threads and the recommendations for hitch locks seemed old and the pages were removed or the lock mentioned actually doesn't fit my no-sway hitch system. I'm thinking of two wheel locks (so they can't cut one wheel then use the spare). And I'd like a hitch lock too. I'd love to do the fuse idea for the jacks but the trailer is six hours away from me and I already had to go down to winterize it in an area where cold temps hadn't been expected but were happening. I'd rather not take the 13 hour RT drive again if I can help it. What locks are people using these days? The trimex is relatively cheap (so I can get two...and because I realize that all of this is simply deterrent) https://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=proven+trailer+lock&linkCode=sl2&linkId=88f789d3c1576eebb81124f0743b7686&qid=1609626381&sr=8-20&tag=loloho-20 The amp lock people seemed to like doesn't fit my hitch. I'm having trouble finding something I'm sure will fit and be strong, not aluminum. Thanks all in advance! Laurie Oliver Legacy II "Meanderthal" F150 Ecoboost 2.7l "Goose"

Most bad guys will be looking for the bigger RVs in storage areas. Thinking more items to steal on the inside for quick money TVs CD players etc. the likelihood of a whole trailer being stolen would more likely be for insurance fraud. Even if you have a security system in place. It would take law enforcement several minutes to arrive at the facility then more time for a key holder to arrive to let the police in. Most storage facility’s are not responsible for theft in there contracts. The best item for storing at a storage facility is replacement insurance for the Oliver and its contents.

Lauri, I am with JD, almost any security device can be defeated given planning, tools, and time. Given your situation - a questionable storage site - the distance from home for regular visuals, I would probably do as John has suggested. 1. Put it on jack stands -wheels/tires removed. Tires/wheels stored at home. 2. Best locking device I could afford installed on the tongue. Yes - this sounds extreme. Yes - it is much more work. Percentage of theft - very low-to not gonna happen. Well I suppose a really motivated thief would bring his own wheels----- Would I go this far - only once I had failed to find a storage site closer to my home base. Or - just fully insure - and forget about it. Welcome to the Oliver clan. RB.

Yikes, you are a long way from your baby! Are the batteries hooked up and connected to shore,power? Is this a self storage place? If yes to both, consider renting one of their very small storage units, and ask them to raise your trailer, remove all four wheels and store them in there for you. They should also lower her down partially so some of the weight is carried on jack stands or big wood blocks under the steel subframe, behind the rear wheels. You could buy a pair of TALL 6000+ pound (per pair) stands and have them sent there so they could do it. Cost for a pair would be around $50 jack stands 14-21” Nobody will bother messing with trying to haul her away with all the wheels missing.. I don’t think any locks will do much more than slow a pro down a little, a battery powered saber saw with a metal cutting blade, or an angle grinder, will make short work of most anything you can bolt or padlock in place. I’m sure others will wonder, why so far away? John Davies Spokane WA