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I understand the frustration. You don’t need to be a technical expert, I’m certainly not. But, a basic understanding of all the systems in your trailer and how they work is important. You need to know where the fuse box is and what all is in it, where the big circuit breakers are under the seat and bed (where mine are) and how to know if they are tripped and how to reset. What the readouts on your solar controller mean. Where the microwave is plugged in, where your black tank and gray tank valves are located, where the water pump is and how it is wired, how to manually raise/lower your jacks, etc. I say all these things because I have had to address them in my own trailer over the years. Knowledge will come over time, you pick up nuggets of info slowly just by asking questions and getting help from other owners and from Oliver Service. Mike

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-11069353/Amazing-spike-maps-change-way-Earth.html John Davies Spokane WA

We use a Clam and love it! We have a 11.5” x 11.5” and it does fit over a picnic table.

The Internet is full of images of wrecked trucks with this caption, here is just one: Hmmm, looks like the rear suspension might be damaged too. John Davies Spokane WA

As many of you know I am raising my prices as my costs have increased significantly over the last 3 months. If you ordered before today you are grandfathered in at the old pricing. Link to PDF Catalog: https://drive.google.com/file/d/17XFL_5ine1WusHVKYguUBRmkj2KnJUN_/view?usp=sharing

I had both my rear jacks out recently for some maintenance. I just used some regular house caulking because that’s what I had on hand. All you’re doing is preventing water from the road being able to get into the hull.

These things seem to happen one-by-one. You won’t forget to check to see if your batteries are on again and you’ll know that if there is no 12V to check the batteries and the breakers. If your water pump quits working, don’t panic. There are two red wires that connect to the underside of the pump, they like to come disconnected if you travel some rough roads. Easy to fix. If the microwave quits, check to see if it is still plugged in to 110V. Etc, etc. There’s help here on the forum, lots of smart, technical folks and some not so technical (me) who have dealt with seemingly big issues that turn out to be no big deal. Pretty soon you’ll be giving advice! Enjoy your camping! Mike

Modern lithium batteries have internal protection, part of their BMS (Battery Management System), that turns them off before they get so low that damage can occur. Running them to the absolute zero point could damage them, but it should not happen. So unless one is faulty, they should be fine. SOME lithium batteries, like Victron, do not have a BMS - they are not a wise investment for an RV. I hope you figure out how they got turned off. I am sure it won’t happen again. Have you stepped into a puddle of water in the bathroom yet? Every Ollie owner does that, one time, after forgetting to open the gray tank vent valve (aka travel valve). If you are unlucky, you will do it while wearing socks, so you have to go change them. A new RV has a steep learning curve. Hang in there. John Davies Spokane WA

You can’t do that safely to an electric awning that automatically retracts if it gets too windy! You should read through the Oliver owner and other manuals to familiarize yourself with the systems. This is from the Girard awning manual. You could disconnect the wind sensor system, but that would not be prudent for a number of reasons. I think Oliver should continue to make a manual awning standard, with the power version as an option. It would be far better for you to get a free standing shelter like a Clam, a believe that a big sized one will fit over a picnic table. I don’t have one (I sometimes use a 10x10 free standing canopy, tied down) but there have been a number of threads here about shelters. John Davies Spokane WA

I had one occasion where I unplugged from shore power and everything went dead. None of the 12V things worked. I rubbed my chin for a few seconds and knowing my batteries were good I checked my circuit breaker box - all good, then I checked under the dinette seat where I have one of those big breakers with the little arm that pops out - sure enough it was out. I reset that breaker and, voila, lights appeared. Mike

This may or may not be relevant to the current situation. In May I encountered a problem with our Truma Water Heater, which would not startup following a period of storage. See: In our case, I don't recall hearing any indication from the Truma Water Heater that it was trying to light. The link above includes instructions which resolved the issue.

Well, for those of us long time dodge /Chrysler fans/owners, Ram will possibly always be a "Dodge" in our thinking, even though the branches split, back in '09. Our 2008 is one of the last to carry a Dodge Ram badge, sadly. But, we'll carry it proudly. It's all still under the FCA umbrella. .. Am I one of the few who misses the Plymouth badge? My '74 Plymouth Duster, with its hearst shift, will always be one of my favorite cars. Frankly, I wish I still owned it. And, my mom's '73 Satellite Sebring... that was really fun to drive. And, fond memories of my brother's road runner... My brother's other car, his 73 Dodge pickup, was arguably one of the worst vehicles any of us in our family ever owned. Never without a rattle, or bits falling off. Maybe that poor production era was why they split the badges? Bad memories? IDK. (Dodge) Ram tough...working our way to 300k on our 2008. A lady stopped by the other day in a parking lot to admire our "pretty" truck. Crazy, huh? Whatever, it still runs. Great.

Those are beautiful pics and LOVE THOSE kayaks!

We purchased a lightweight 6X9 indoor/outdoor carpet to use at home for $19.99 at Costco, it's been on sale for as low as $16. Debbie wanted to try it in Ollie. We purchased another roll for Ollie and cut out three pieces for use over Ollie's Vinyl floor. Had use anti skid rug material under the carpet to keep from slipping. Will see how it works out!

It was wonderful talking to you, too! Thank you so much for the information and thoughts. We look forward to meeting you (and all the folks here) on the road somewhere.

Sounds like a plan someday! Great talking with your today Steve! - David

Now there is a great idea. We would be interested in one.

Yeah, yeah, yeah: it's to pay for that new Georgia mansion. We know what's going on. (love you guys). 2 HOBOS

Thanks for the encouragement. !

Thanks! There seem to be a lot of us here in Ohio. Gonna need a mini-meet some time next summer. 😉

Best of luck on your trip and decision. We went thru the same experiences and thoughts before we "left with one less check". Picked ours up 7/22 this year. Spent 5 nights camping on way home to Ohio and could not be happier.

It depends. I don’t know what awning Oliver is using right now. My Fiamma awning has two slots that I use for my sunshade and sometimes lights. My shade slides in very easily (short top section of 12”) then the big part zips onto the section connected to the awning. I got my sunshade at Quartzsite at the big tent show. There are similar shades on Amazon. I think the slot is called a Keder Rail. You might ask your sales rep if the awnings they are using not have one. Mike

I'm a bit confused by the information in this thread. Does the 12v system (lights, pump, fans, tv, etc.) work when on shore power but not when disconnected from shore power? That would be bizzare imho. If there is a short in the 12v connections (seems likely from your description of problems plus the SHT message on the See Level monitor) I wouldn't expect shore power to fix that. It would also be an interesting data point to push the button on the Xantrex remote "in" so that the inverter would try to work without shore power (the pic you sent has the Xantrex button "off" or out). To try this, push the Xantrex button in while on shore power then disconnect and see if anything works (12v and 120v). Good luck - electrical issues can be frustrating but as others on this forum have mentioned, it's almost always a loose ground somewhere. More details and info may help the many knowledgeable owners help you.

As anyone who's every owned or driven a Corvette knows, fiberglass squeaks. I don't have the problem that you're talking about here but if I did it would be a simple fix to take the foot off the bottom of the jack, remove the nuts from the frame bolts, knock them back up into the the trailer and pull the jack out through the opening under the bed. Take a round file and enlarge the hole where it is rubbing on the jack. Reinstall the jack and re-caulk the hole. Done - maybe an hour?

I loved my '69 dodge pickup, slant 6, 3 on the tree, step side, aqua factory color. I could sit on the front fender with my feet on the chassis rails when working on the motor aaaaah, nostalgia

Back on topic for an update. 😉 After several delays due to some health concerns (all okay) we finally saw our first Oliver trailer yesterday. Sue and Matt, hull #944, invited us for a visit to see their 2021 Elite II that they picked up last fall. We spent over three hours with them, both exploring the trailer, and sitting beside their lake talking about actual use and travel in general. it was everything we were hoping for, and then some! 😍 Much roomier than we expected in the twin configuration. No concern about the 30” bed width. So bright and airy feeling inside, and quality that’s on par with very expensive boats we’ve been in before. Absolutely nothing that we didn’t like, and so much we loved. So, we’re still heading to Hohenwald mid-August, and have a pretty good idea of what options we’d select. The only thing that will keep us from placing an order is indecision on actually making the commitment. No other trailer will do, so it’s either the Oliver or continue with the tiny squaredrop and motel travel. Thank you so much Sue and Matt, and to everyone else here sharing their knowledge and experiences!

I've been thinking about that same issue for going on 15 years now. I finally just straightened the hose and just never twist it while removing and replacing it. It works fine for me.

Delivery Day went great yesterday! Kudos to Ryan for a thorough orientation that enabled us to learn, have fun, and ask endless questions before choosing our spot on the Oliver Campground. It's been so much fun meeting other owners and learning from their experiences during our stay here so far. We were also blessed with beautiful weather on pick-up day and a quiet peaceful evening for our first night stay. Today, we are enjoying another sunny and warm day in the 70's before we head home tomorrow for PA, where it's currently in the 40's according to family members. Oh well. We eagerly look forward to seeing you all at the Oliver Rally, which is quickly approaching. Peace, love, & safe travels!

Thanks @Dave and Kimberly , the Kayaks are Old Town Cayuga (rotomold) 13 footers so they cut through the water nicely still do not hold a candle to a well made FG or Kevlar. We were once out with some people who had a 17 foot tandem FG very thin, narrow, sleek and light weight. The couple would flawlessly perform 3-4 strokes and they were gone. It was quite amazing to watch.

Congratulations and happy your pick up trip went well! Hope to see you on the road - Mike

As always, post your hull number and model in a signature in every post…. preferably your tow vehicle info too. Do not assume that we all know what you own. Otherwise we have to look at your profile page to see if it is there… These trailers change constantly from year to year, and you are very correct, the technology is not at all intuitive if something does not work correctly. Once we know what systems you have, somebody can assist. Off the top of my bald head, I suspect there is a problem with the transfer switch, which is supposed to seamlessly bring your batteries online as soon as you unplug from shore power. EDIT - The latest Xantrex inverter has a built in transfer switch. (My five year old one is a separate relay.) So either that inverter function failed (a defective unit):, or the batteries are not in fact charged (check the voltage with a hand volt meter.) That is far as I can go with this problem because I don’t have this system…. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

We have the Rad Mimi folding ebikes, don't know how they compare in size to the Lectric ebikes, but I would think the sizes are pretty close in size. I would think storing them in the trailer in there folded position would be just about impossible and getting them in and out would be just as equally impossible. We did carry them in the pickup bed folded at first, but found in was much easier to leave them unfolded and just lower the handlebars and fold the pedals in. In there folded possession they are somewhat hard to handle, just bulky. I also wouldn't recommend them on a bicycle carrier either, would be too heavy for most of them. I will say this, they are fun to ride and the battery life is long on the Rad's, just adds to the camping fun. trainman

Congrats on your new Oliver!! Wishing you many happy miles and smiles exploring! Happy Camping!!! -Patriot

That bin is roughly 38”x22”, could you get two into your Ollie, with bikes inside? Will they fit end to end in the center aisle? It seems as if it might be possible but not easy… or practical as a long term solution. I don’t know the weight rating for their top and sides, could two loaded ones stack on top of each other in a truck bed? John Davies Spokane WA

Hello, We have Lectric folding ebikes and love them! They are a great bang for your bike, we’ve had ours a little over a year with no issues. We’ve transported them in the back seat area (not folded) as well as the bed of our truck (folded). You can also fold them and put each one in a 40 gallon Commander Tote bin (from Lowes). There are several posts about transporting Lectrics on the Lectric owners FB page.

The lightest model is 36 L x 16 W x 27 H inches. Any regular bin big enough to hold one will be impossible to get through the entry door. Unless perhaps Lectric makes a hard transport bin in a special narrow width, just for their bike. You still have the problems of how to secure them when towing, and how to walk around them when stopped for a quick break. The center isle of an LE2 is less than 2 feet wide😳 Those are Class 2 (manual throttle), are you aware of the possible limitations of where you can or cannot legally ride them? The single speed drivetrain is not a good thing. You need multiple gears to help climb steep hills and to not deplete the tiny battery so fast. For dead flat bike trails it would be adequate. If you are allowed to ride on them at all. https://lectricebikes.com/collections/xp-lite-series/products/xp-lite-arctic-white Email their customer service rep, ask if they know of a case like this that their bikes will fit into: CASE - Bagi Bike B16 Hard Shell Folding Bike Case John Davies Spokane WA

I’ve been thinking about the Houghton. If Oliver does a retrofit with the Truma AC I will definitely be interested. The worst feature of our Oliver is the Dometic AC. Mike

We have on demand hot water Rinnai at home, love it. We are very happy with the Truma and have never looked back. Super easy to winterize and easy to clean and very efficient. The new 2023 Olivers will have Truma furnaces, Truma AC, and the option for the Truma water heater. Just something to think about.

You said that you winterized the trailer when you got home and installed the Truma anti-freeze option. I am assuming you mean the 12 volt powered electric heating element into the Truma. I have installed the same option. If I am understanding you correctly, when winterizing the water system, you closed the water valve to the Truma and left normal water in the Truma to be protected with the electric antifreeze option (which is nothing more than the equivalent of a 12 volt dipstick heater). If that is in fact what you did, turning off the batteries would have cut power to the electric antifreeze dipstick heater in the Truma and it would not have protected the Truma against freezing. The electric antifreeze option in the Truma is really designed to protect the Truma while in transit during freezing weather when the propane is turned off while towing. To gain full protection from the electric option, you need to also install the provided plug into the exhaust port of the Truma when using the option, or cold air can enter the Truma combustion chamber while driving and potentially overpower the weak electric antifreeze heating element. If you later de-winterized the trailer and tried to start the Truma on propane before actually turning the propane on, and/or removing the plug from the Truma exhaust port, then the Truma would have tried to ignite a few times, and then it would have locked out. Just like the Norcold refrigerator, if the unit tries to ignite on propane when the propane is turned off, the unit locks out and must be turned off and then on again to reset the error codes. Same thing if the Truma senses a blocked exhaust port. When winterizing the trailer, it is probably best to follow the winterizing instructions in the manual that basically call for closing the water inlet valve to the Truma and then draining the water out. It only takes a minute or two. The electric antifreeze option will also work when winterizing, but then you will need to ensure that the batteries provide continuous power to the trailer over the winter to run the electric antifreeze option. Simply draining the water from the Truma when winterizing is a safer approach.

Your pictures are fine at the size they are! But if you want to change the size, here is how. Upload the picture and insert it into the message field. Then double click on the picture, which brings up this dialog box shown below. (Note I am using a web browser on a laptop. It might be different on a phone or a tablet.) The default is 1000 pixels in width for high resolution images, but this will be a lower number for low resolution images. If you enter 500 pixels into the width box your picture will be one-half the size. You should keep the box checked for Keep Oriinal Aspect Ratio, unless you want to squish your picture in funny ways. Then click on the Update button Note you can also add a Title for the image, and set the alignment if desired.

I'm confused! At the Rally - do I look for the white Oliver or the white truck or the white legs?😆 Seriously - THAT is one good looking rig. Glad that everything went well and that the weather was good to you - at least until you got home. Hope to meet both of you at the Rally! Bill

My comment about the Zamp controller in the original post in this thread is incorrect. The Zamp controller does charge the batteries up 14.4 volts. Moderators: I tried to modify the original November 4 post, but could not find the "edit" option. Could one of you please show me how to correct the error in the original post?

I received the following private message, and am posting it here in case anyone else has the same question (or to give others a chance to correct my response): "Are there switches/breakers inside the trailer that I need to switch off before I remove my batteries? I would assume so - like a "main" switch similar to on a house panel that would just power everything off." I have not yet removed the batteries for the season (I'm still trying to get an inverter issue resolved). That said, I think the only thing that is necessary is to stop all major loads (e.g., unplug from shore power, turn off major uses (e.g., microwave), and perhaps turn off the solar controller (the red dial-switch located in the upper cabinet above the streetside bed). Record the SOC and voltage for warranty purposes (I take screenshots of these readings for each battery). Take a photo of the wiring array before you begin disconnecting terminals to help with reconnection in the spring. Then turn off each of the Lithionics batteries (the light-blue lit button in the far right corner of each battery). Disconnect the batteries beginning with the primary negative terminal (this is the right-front terminal with multiple, heavy-gauge wires), then disconnect all of the other wires being careful not to accidentally bridge terminals with a wrench. As a heads-up for reconnecting in the spring, I think I recall seeing a torque specification in the manual for tightening nuts on the terminals (to avoid damaging the batteries by over tightening terminal nuts).

One option for those with an excessively loud charging fan might be to add another smaller charger to the system. A 15-20 amp silent unit could be utilized most of the time with the option to use the high power unit when needed. This might actually increase the battery life with the slower charge rate and likelihood to reduce the depth of discharge.

Thanks @SeaDawg I think your statement helps. Maybe I was just misunderstanding the directional part of his statement. BTW this is not about how much a given device does or does not draw (not trying to prove how much a laptop does or does not draw). It was just about his 10x statement of it draw 10x more regardless of device, hence my random example. But if the statement was more about directionally needing to go from 12 to 120 that makes sense. It was not how I hear it but at least makes sense in that framing. For anyone reading this you will not understand the statement if you respond without listening to the clip 🙂

Sorry, I'm a new to the forum and thought the file name of the pics would be shown. The top pic is the way the previous owner connected the batteries and shunt. The bottom pic is the way we changed them. We used VHB tape to secure the switch and busses.

You might want to check your numbers here...most computers use less than 1Ah, not 80. Charging your laptop while you work will barely make a dent in your 390Ah system.

Congratulations on finding a nice new to you Ollie. For those reading your post, Oliver has never installed Battleborn batteries, so you are dealing with a previous owner change up. Glad you have experience, and know what to do. Best of luck, and happy camping!

Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?😁 Seriously, thanks for the work you are putting in to this thread. Bill