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It’s basically just cutting out manual valve and replacing it with the electric one. Might want to have a piece of blue pex pipe handy. I extended how much pipe exited camper so I could crimp on a 3/4” threaded brass fitting. The two biggest decisions are where to mount switch and where to get 12v power from. I originally wanted to mount switch with the rest of the switches on the left wall as you enter camper, but running wires between hulls proved impossible for me. So I decided on current location shown in picture. For 12v power, I just tapped into a previous mod of a 12v exterior socket which was very close to valve location. But, it would not have been very difficult to run the wires to the other side of camper where the fuse panel is located. There is a Youtube video on wiring up the US Solid valve. Remember, there are two versions of the US Solid valve, a three wire and a two wire. The 3 wire is what I chose. In either open or closed condition, it draws no power. The two wire version uses minimal power when open and will automatically close when power is lost using internal capacitor.

No - that is not what KYD said. Since Olivers have an enclosed "belly" and there is heat in that area, according to KYD the Oliver IS a four season camper. For me, living in the mountains of western North Carolina, the Oliver is certainly a four season camper. However, a person living in Fairbanks, Alaska probably would not consider ANY RV a four season camper. As I said above the answer to your question will at least partly depend on the person you ask. Bill

We needed a small trailer specifically in Zion and Grand Canyon. Also at Oscar Schearer state park and Fort Pickens National Park in Florida. These were all great stops. Smaller opens up lots of sites because you can fit almost anywhere. The gas station maneuvering is an added benefit. My wife actually really ended up likeing the wet bath and used it more than some of the shower rooms in many of the campgrounds. We had the Oliver shower curtain set up. Personally at 6'1" and too short for my height, I felt it was cramped but admit it worked well. I thought I wanted a separate dry bath. I am now fine with wet bath like Oliver all fiberglass. It is easy to keep clean and dry. Consider a grate for the shower floor. We liked our Ollie very much. We sold it thinking we were done camping after 2 long trips and some shorter trips, kind of wish we kept it. We purchased it when we retired. We traveled in the winter and having the Oliver in the winter and cold in Utah and New Mexico was great. I would buy an Oliver EII again as a travel trailer. We never felt cramped in our twin bed model. Great and fast resale too. Hard to go wrong. We did have a clam pop up room too but seldom used it. We mostly had breakfast and dinner at the camper and were gone all day. Good luck!!!

I hope this doesn't sound too ridiculous to all you old hands, but.... We toured what we thought was a near-as-good competitor to see their offerings that were just a tad bigger, so we could get a dry bath. INTECH has a couple of very pretty options, and they appear better than your typical stickie. But many of the build-material issues immediately resurfaced (maybe we never should have toured the Oliver 🃏). And the praise lavished here extolling the virtues of small started to sound more like us again. Bottom line, my wife is voting for the LEII again. 😀 I'm gonna see if we can spend a weekend in a small Airstream somewhere close and experience a few wetbaths first hand. Just in case that pendulum has one more swing left in it. 😕

I meant to give an update sooner, but life got crazy like usual. Leaving the cabinets open seemed to stop condensation inside the light fixture; however, it should be noted that was without anyone sleeping inside the trailer. We also had some rain recently, and I did not observe any leaks either. To confirm there were no leaks, I left out paper towels and I also removed the rear driver's side speaker. This allowed me to access the area between the attic and my troublesome storage area; no moisture detected. I'm therefore pretty confident there are no leaks, at least from the rear Oliver light. I won't get a chance to camp in the trailer until the end of February, so till then I won't know of my condensation problem is completely resolved, but till then, it's looking promising! Thanks everyone for your help! I'll update again after we go camping next month.

Last winter I put a 4" vent through from the base of the toilet to the area under the dinette. It's an eyebrow style vent so shower water can't splash into the belly. I also removed the exterior shower head, brought that hose inside and re-attached the head. Also removed the hot and cold water knobs. Used closed cell foam to insulate the space behind the tiny door and two layers of reflectix to insulate the outer door. All super easy and very productive. Those belly areas were measurably warmer as was the temp in the bathroom as air now flowed through there where it had been a dead end.

I'd second the comments quoted above. I've found with a month worth of below freezing camping that the trailers in their stock configuration is safe to run de-winterized until the mid 20s. Below that the garage (the area behind the skimpy wall at the very rear of the trailer belly) drops below freezing posing a threat to the pex lines and connectors in that area. In pre 2023 models, the belly areas below the front dinette and by the exterior shower can also freeze when temps dip into the low 20s. With mods currently in 2023 models and/or mods outlined in the discussion titled 3.75 Season Trailer, all belly areas except the rear of the garage, have stayed above freezing down to -5 which is the coldest I've been able to test, so far, since making the modifications. It's tough to say what "4 Season" means but, to me, any place that occasionally sees temps to 32 could easily fall to the low 20s so, the short answer as far as I'm concerned and have seen in my testing is Not Really, these are not currently outfitted for true 4 season usage. Others may draw different conclusions or even have different experiences. For what it's worth, at the end of the winter, I'll share a full breakdown of my mods and results.

I believe that the answer you seek will be determined by the source from whom you seek it. In a recent video on YouTube( by "KYD - Keep Your Daydream" they stated that when the term "Four Season" is used relative to RV's it means that the RV has heat directed to the areas containing the water and sewer tanks and the water lines. Obviously, that in and of itself does not necessarily mean that these lines and tank will never freeze. In any case - there are some good hints, practices, etc. in this video if you intend to camp during cold weather. Bill

There a number of owners that use the nocked out receiver (including me) with thousands of miles carrying their bicycles. I have yet to read about any failures of using the knocked out receiver. I took it a step further and called and spoke to Oliver Service and was told they have not had any bike rack failures reported. Based on this information and talking with other owners and having 4000 miles using this hitch mod, I am not overly concerned about a failure. With periodic inspections, I have not observed any wear and tear that would cause me to discontinue using the Oliver 2” receiver. Naturally one has to proceed with what one is comfortable and their risk tolerance level is when it comes to securing your bikes. We cover our bikes when traveling and our rear Ollie lights are still very visible. We have also added the 1Up license plate bracket holder. We really like the 1Up bike rack with is certified for use on a TT. Travel safe and 🚲Bike On! 😊

Better? Bill

I am sure C&M Currie will respond with more information about this mod, but until then I have included a plumbing and electrical diagram from the 2017 LE2 manual to help you focus on the what it might entail. Mossey Plumbing Diagram Wiring Diagram

I'll be interested in your local towing experience . I've seen only two rivians in my county. Neither towing.

I bought two 2-packs of the Blue Sea 30A slow-blow fuse from Amazon. Expensive, but I've used Blue Sea products for decades, and have never had even a hint of a problem. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZOIR1O?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

From my perspective the ceramic fuses work just as well as the glass cartage variety as listed above for our Ollie applications. A ceramic fuse contains a blowout and can arch less than a glass ones for high current events. However the down side is that the ceramic ones cost more. Grainger likes it when customers absolutely trust that their products are genuine. Casting stones at Amazon is part of that game, but not totally without merit. Problem is knockoff products used in critical applications must work as advertised... such a fuses. Hence for fuses, axle bearings and seals I buy from "more trusted" vendors than some Amazon resellers are. That said I have bought fuses stocked at Amazon and they appeared to not be knock-offs. So research the reseller if you really want to go that route.

dewdev, Along with @topgun2 I have not heard of any Oliver owners having their tanks stolen. And hope it remains that way. This mod along with the fact that my 30# tanks are not as common as the 20# tanks may possibly serve as a real deterrent or may not. I also write my hull# on the tanks as I don’t swap them out I just get them refilled. Patriot🇺🇸

I've never heard of an Oliver owner having their propane tanks stolen. However, I have heard of other brands of RV's having theirs disappear. Perhaps with the Oliver the fact that the tanks are basically out of sight? In any case, for such a simple mod, I prefer not to take the chance. Bill

This very old thread (Rear power jacks don't work) did not mention which was a good replacement for the Bussmann fuses that were arriving from Amazon with a single fuse in the bags. What is another "good" fuse to use on these rear jacks that are also "time delayed" or "slow blowing" fuse? This is what was mentioned in the thread. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-MDL30-Time-Delay-Glass-Fuse/dp/B00139MFXM/ref=pd_cp_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00139MFXM&pd_rd_r=941YEBKBVDQW08XNT36X&pd_rd_w=zg0Jw&pd_rd_wg=eElSR&psc=1&refRID=941YEBKBVDQW08XNT36X&pldnSite=1 These are do not indicate slow blow, yes still a MDL30: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-MDL-30-Fuse-Buss-MDL30/dp/B078SYLF3H

I just wanted to mention that we have a Laveo dry flush toilet and we love it. I haven't seen anyone mention it on the forum before so I thought I would mention it. It may not be for everyone but if you dont want to deal with black water or the pee bottle of a composting toilet this may be your ticket. If you Boon dock as we do it makes life so much easier. Work prevents us from traveling a whole lot and we can only get out for 1 or 2 weeks at a time and then back to work so its a perfect solution for us. We often only get out for a day or 2 at a time so the convenience of this toilet makes shot trips so much easier. If you use it for a few days then park the trailer you dont have to do anything, just walk away. Its odor less and takes about 2 minutes to change a cartridge. You can get about 14 flushes out of a cartridge so we usually flush it 2 times a day and we go a whole week, we have gone 10 days but that was pushing it. Another interesting feature is you can remove the whole thing with one wing nut and bring it in. So if you need a portable toilet for some crazy reason and your not using your trailer just pop it out and take it with you and its 1/2 the price of a Natures head. Its not for everyone but it is perfect for us, we think its the Cats Meow! Check out the link and watch the video its interesting to watch. And its made right here in the USA Check it out Bill https://dry-flush.com/

It cost us about $1.50 a flush so $3.00 a day. It’s kind of a moot point seeing how I’m pulling a $80,000 trailer with a $60,000 truck. Also like I mentioned earlier we usually only get out about a week at a time with day trips in between it works perfect for us. The other thing is we almost never go to a camp ground so black water is a big issue. Its not for everyone but for us it’s perfect. Bill

Wow! Two months will fly by! I'd recommend that you give Oliver a call (1-888-526-3978) and confirm that you have a camping spot for your delivery night AND see if they can let you stay one more day/night before moving on. This will give you plenty of relaxing time after the delivery day. This is fairly important in that your delivery day is likely to be very hectic and it will be much more enjoyable for you if you can "test" things out without the concern of having to get on down the road. Bill

No because when you screw tire sensor onto the valve stem it opens the valve core and it remains open. Then the balancing beads get stuck and jamb it open. Things will be fine until you remove the sensor to add air and it starts to leak and you can't stop it. If you move the trailer so that the stem is at the top of the tire and then add air it will usually blow the beads out and it will stop leaking. The only way I know to resolve this is to either remove the beads or buy internal tire pressure sensors and have them installed by a tire garage. I had exactly the same problem Bill

Today I talked to our sales rep, and finally received our VIN number. Now I can start looking into insurance. We have had State Farm since 1980, and I was insured with them through my parents before that since 1969. But I'm considering alternatives. Amica has a wonderful reputation, although a bit more expensive. I've got two months from yesterday to explore the options. After verifying our pick up date, it was time to make some reservations. We'll leave Ohio on Monday March 27 for a leisurely two day drive to Lawrenceburg, Tennessee where we'll stay Tuesday night. Wednesday morning we'll head to Hohenwald for delivery day and stay over at Camp Oliver. Thursday, we head to David Crockett State Park for three nights though the weekend. Then Sunday, we steer further south to Pine Mountain, Georgia to stay three nights at the lodge at Callaway Gardens. (Remember the part about Deb being an avid gardener? This place is her Nirvana!) I already checked, and the Oliver can be parked in their lot while we're staying in the lodge. Then a meandering multi- day trip back to northern Ohio. Do I need to make prior arrangements to stay at Oliver's campground? Or is that just assumed as part of the delivery process? @DebM and I are really looking forward to our adventures!! Thanks once again to everyone's encouragement and suggestions! Steve

The Intech Terra Oasis is a nice trailer, welded aluminum frame and nice features. We like the bigger holding tanks and large fridge. They are not as easy to tow and will be less likely to fit into smaller camp sites. I’ve read that even with a 3/4 ton truck or larger most owners are using a WDH. I saw a picture this month of an Oasis overturned still attached to the 3/4 ton pickup that was upside down. It was going downhill at 55mph and was passed by a semi going quite a bit faster. Sway started and took over. The good news, both occupants walked away and the trailer did not disintegrate and remained pretty much intact. Mike

I got a copy of the waterline distribution diagram and found that these lines go to both the Fresh Water and City Water feeds and then go onto feed the bathroom. That sadly excludes the option to add cut offs to protect them from freezing. We just returned from our 2nd winter ski safari this season. As with prior system testing, we did not dewinterize but did have temp/humidity sensors in the bathroom vanity, under front dinette seat, by the exterior shower outlet and in the rearmost area of the garage. The good news: even at -5 degrees, all areas (except the garage) never dropped below the mid 40s. All these areas had previously, before modifications, dropped below freezing when ambient outside temps were in the low 20s and internal temp was set to mid 60s. Progress! The horrible news: The area at the rear of the garage still dropped below freezing when ambient outside temps were in the mid teens and internal was set to mid 60s. This is in spite of our having placed return vents in the end walls of that compartment to allow return air to be drawn through by the furnace. These findings were constant for any night over a two week testing period when ambient temps would drop to this level. Our sensors are all adjusted to read the same temps within 1 degree. It is worth noting that there seems to be no adjustment made in the 2023 units to warm this problematic area. There have been a couple of accounts of folks with new trailers camping in temps down to this range with no incidence of burst lines but without monitoring the temp in that area, who knows how close to the edge they were or if they split a pipe/fitting without knowing it. A slow leak would drain out the belly so may go unnoticed on a short trip. Our next trip is in about 10 days from now and it will be at least 2 weeks so would be great to fix this problem. I don't want to add anything requiring power as our winter trips are always boondocking so power is limited. Fans and/or heat pads could do the trick but would certainly increase the power draw. We'll remove the flimsy rear wall and look below the partial floor to put eyes on things. Has anyone had success with addressing this problem?

@John E Davies It's not quite been two years since you used that awesome grease in the electric jacks, but it "might be" of interest to some what the grease is now looking like, at least in one of the rear jacks, which are easier to inspect. I would imaging, even with a good bit of use, that the grease looks fine and has remained on the teeth of the gears/cogs, unlike the white grease that came from the jack manufacturer.

We've not ever locked ours, but if we had a spare lock, might. 15 years in, no issues yet. Tanks are a target for meth cookers. If you Google rv tanks stolen. Probably depends on where you camp. Most tanks seem to be stolen from tank swap sites, not rvs . But, it does apparently happen, on occasion.

And for some reason, my pictures are still getting turned 90 degrees to the right.... oh well.

Steve Moore, we went in a different direction. Check out a Diamondback bed cover. We carry our trikes tied down to it, but Yakima racks can be installed for bikes. I have a Yakima rack (removable) that we mount for kayaks.

Thanks! Are you using the app? Is there any code displayed when this happens?

Tim W I resolved this by reading and better understanding. The RVC is the first step when the battery shuts down because it has discharge to a low state. However the "R" is for "reserve" which means the batteries still have enough charge to do some tasks to get you going; such as raise the three jacks. You just need to push the on buttons on the batteries to access the "reserve". The LVC is an even lower charge than the RVC and means the batteries are done until recharged again. The RVC saves you & the LVC means show over.

Frank, that did it! Thank you so much.

We were up in Nova Scotia... when I inadvertently bumped it into the "Clean mode". Frank C came to the rescue with the above procedure to reset the Truma water heater and it was much appreciated. I would advise everyone with the Truma water heater to print that off and keep it in your manual. It's not in the manual.

Thanks Chris. Actually found it, as you said, on the front. Our remote quit working so replaced it (ordered a replacement from Amazon), and the inverter works fine now. David

Welcome. If your wrench s an adjustable one you are all set. Standard on one side, metric on the other. A pair of screwdrivers and a hammer should complete your tool box (to start). Advice: the "stuff" you think you might need and start to accumulate, think twice. There are stores everywhere in the USA. After 7 years we are still taking "stuff" out that we have never used and leaving it home. We still have 2 cabinets full of "stuff" we might someday need...

Same with Deb. Once we actually saw one, there were no other options!

What’s everyone’s thoughts on the new reward program?

I have reviewed the Waiver of Liability, Assumption of Risk and Indemnification document Matt Duncan sent me. It is tightly and carefully crafted. Requiring those who view an Oliver trailer to execute this document should provide as much protection as can reasonably be provided to the Oliver owner showing a trailer from suit by an injured third party. Not incidentally, it also protects Oliver Travel Trailers. But, no such document can be 100% enforceable in every state, by every judge. But in my judgment, that is not enough to persuade me to sign up, given the Indemnification language quoted in my earlier post from the Terms and Conditions for the Reward Program. Were Oliver to get sued by someone injured during a trailer tour, that indemnification language allows Oliver to drag you into such a suit, even if you were not already a defendant, and make you pay Oliver's attorneys' fees and pay all of any judgment in favor of the plaintiff. You would likely get dragged in, and incur attorneys' fee expenses, before a decision was made about the enforceability of the Waiver of Liability, Assumption of Risk and Indemnification document. This could ultimately add up to hundreds of thousands of dollars (maybe millions in Texas or California). Although the odds of getting sued are very low, the result could still be financial ruin for the unlucky Oliver owner--but not for Oliver or its insurer. If, instead of shifting the burden of defense and indemnity to the Oliver trailer owner, Oliver's Terms and Conditions accepted responsibility to "fully defend and indemnify" the trailer owner in the event such a suit is commenced, I would be willing to sign up. Such a change would, in my judgment, also be fair. Should an Oliver trailer owner be required to take even a very small chance of financial ruin in order to participate in the Rewards Program? Or, since Oliver receives a significant financial benefit from Oliver owners showing their trailers, should not Oliver bear that risk? In my view, it is more than fair for Oliver to "watch the back" of the owner, not the other way around. When I was practicing law, I would not have advised any client to sign up for the Rewards Program under the existing Terms and Conditions, even with Oliver requiring execution of the Waiver of Liability, Assumption of Risk and Indemnification document. And, I plan to follow my own advice--we will not be signing up unless and until Oliver removes the present Indemnification paragraph and substitutes "we've got your back" language in its stead.

::Raises hand:: And just for asking the outcome of a delivery problem. As for starting another group; there already is one. From what I understand, it was started by someone booted from the other group some time ago. https://www.facebook.com/groups/250246709208286

I would like to see a copy of that Hold Harmless Agreement. While requiring the Hold Harmless is a positive step for Oliver to take, it still does not outweigh the effect of the Indemnification paragraph in the Terms and Conditions. If Oliver removes that Indemnification language, and in its place promises to "fully defend and indemnify" any Oliver owner who shows a trailer to a prospective purchaser, then the new Rewards Program would be much more attractive. As presently written, I believe it is a remarkably bad deal.

We will not be signing up. The $20 annual "debit" against rewards, and the indemnification language in the Terms and Conditions are more than sufficient to persuade us to "Just Say No." The Indemnification paragraph reads: "9. Indemnification You agree to defend, indemnify and hold Oliver, its subsidiaries, affiliates, partners, licensors, officers, directors, employees, and agents harmless for any loss, damages or costs, including reasonable attorneys' fees, resulting from any third-party claim, action, or demand resulting from your participation in the Rewards Program in violation of any law, rule, regulation or these Terms." This means that if someone gets hurt when you are showing your Oliver and includes Oliver as a defendant in an ensuing personal injury suit along with you, you get to pay not only your defense costs, but Oliver's defense costs, and to pay any resulting judgment not only against you, but against Oliver. No rewards program provides sufficient incentive for us to assume this kind of financial exposure. We left Hohenwald with high regard for Oliver's Sales and Service team. Reviewing the Terms and Conditions of the new rewards program has diminished, not enhanced, our view of Oliver Travel Trailers as a company.

Well, we show our Ollie frequently to just about anybody who asks to see it - we're proud of our choice of a well-made TT. That being said, we're not interested in Oliver's new rewards program. I hope it works for them, but it looks like some slick salesman just "sold" them a "turn-key" marketing program. Disappointing. JMO Charlie.

“There was a thread on FB wherefeedback was also lukewarm but it was quickly deleted as it seems any criticism of Oliver is not allowed there anymore”. TexasGuy, I agree with your observation. I have noticed the same with regard to the admin overreach on the Facebook Oliver page. Deleting posts or content because “admin” does not particularly like or agree with the content or a reply by members meh…not so much. Silencing, muzzling, or deleting posts is not a way to facilitate good discussion or honest feedback by owners. The FB Oliver admin would do well to really just lighten up just a bit. Hopefully they will do better and not remain heavy handed. I also think the administrators should be rotated out often. As for the rewards program and card, we have little interest at best. Patriot🇺🇸

Felt too cumbersome to me. Last thing I want is another credit card and login to keep track off. There was a thread on FB where feedback was also lukewarm but it was quickly deleted as it seems any criticism of Oliver is not allowed there anymore. Like others not something I’m interested in doing. I’ll answer questions from curious folks while camping but not show through Oliver. With all the new trailers coming out plenty of folks to show trailers.

Not sure how many reservation systems it has in its database, but this is a Godsend for trying to book in Florida. We were able to successfully get 2 night reservations at multiple nice and hard to get campgrounds last week using this website. I love it. Im hesitant to share it with anyone, but everyone here deserves this site! https://wanderinglabs.com/

As the years have passed we show our trailer less and less. Not a problem, I’m sure it’s due to the age of our trailer and the big increase of Oliver owners in our geographical area. None of the appliances in our trailer are the same as what is being produced now so I don’t blame Oliver asking one of the newer owners to show instead of us. We still entertain the spontaneous campground questions while we are on the road but the official showing while at home has decreased significantly. Mike

Cumbersome. Written by lawyers. Doesn't appear user friendly? They will charge for the use of the card? I showed 8 times one year, and sold 6. Other 2_bought used, so this program would have helped me. Haven't been asked to show since. Maybe me and my unit are getting too old? It does look like the Rewards Program is going to drive a Branded Store. Maybe that will be a positive.

I don’t know… But you might begin by checking the voltage in each battery with the Lithionics app. In my experience, the voltage recovers somewhat after the load has stopped. This might tell you if the battery voltages are in the LVC or RVC range.

A belated response to your query: In his 2021 delivery video, Jason explains that the second fuse for the front jack under the rear street side access panel is installed to satisfy a requirement that the circuit be fused within "x" distance from the power source. The power source, of course, is the battery bank. Jason does not specify what the "x" distance is in the video.

Just watch tight turns as you will bend the handle…

If you want instant deployment, easy manipulation in tight spaces, not having to rely on switches and electric catches to release something stuck in the back of a closet, that only you know the secret to, that then has to be unwrapped, in the dark, while in a hurry, look elsewhere. If you want 17 rounds of "go away", you need a strategically placed pistol that your hand can find in the dark. Or your partner or a friend can find without learning where the secret switch is and all the rest. There are at least four places that meet this criteria in an LE2. And none of them will accept a long gun. Further, if you get stranded in the mountains and have to walk out overnight, a smaller gun is much easier to carry. Or you might have two, so you can leave one with whoever stays behind. Not at all saying anybody needs to shoot someone or some animal, but a lot of noise and the presence of a gun can go a long way toward scaring off a bear or showing intention. Remember the recent story of the hiker that killed a mountain lion with his bare hands after being attacked? A shotgun packed away back at the trailer, would have been no help, but a pistol in his pocket, might have. Of course, while just sitting around camp in the evening with a few friends, a gun should be out of sight in the trailer, or locked up. A few years ago, a buddy of mine had some friends that were out camping together. One night, sitting around the fire, some weirdo walked into camp with a gun and started taking to them. The conversation deteriorated. Everyone was nervous and finally one guy ran to his car and started fumbling around for his gun. The stranger shot him and disappeared back into the forest. I never look for trouble. I would never go camping where I suspected there were dangerous people around. I don't hunt. And I would never shoot an animal unless necessary. But I can imagine a few scenarios where I would be very glad I was armed. We really enjoy going to rallies, where everything is safe, fun and friendly, and we also enjoy getting about as far off the beaten path as possible.