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Just a reminder for anyone buying replacement lug nuts. Make sure you buy the “Bulge Acorn” type for aluminum wheels. I’ve seen a few owners referencing “Acorn” type as replacements, but the acorn type are for steel wheels and have a smaller conical seating surface compared to the bulge acorn type. Aluminum wheels are softer metal than steel wheels and the larger bulge acorn type lug nuts provide a greater seating surface to prevent deformation of the aluminum wheel and loosening.

I just spoke with Anita. She was surrounded by family visiting her at home. She is currently at home and walks with a walker after her hip replacement surgery. She is feeling better every day. Scott Oliver and others visited her in the hospital to give their encouragements and she is hoping to return to OTT next month to continue helping folks finding their forever trailer. She says the flowers from friends had totally overtaken her room at hospital and rehab and they were a delight. She says HELLO to all.

@Ollie-Haus Great find! I just happen to be replacing a touch light over the dinette. So I took a photo of it. Thanks for posting the Amazon link as they look petty identical. Probably the same company in China just a different supplier. I purchased (3) spares on our recent trip to Oliver. I hope this replacement lasts! This is the third touch light I have replaced. 😏 Oliver TL Amazons version -

Touch light replacement just completed over the dinette. It’s important to note that the TL’s I have replaced have all been working fine. I do hope Oliver finds a higher quality touch light. These are cheesey at best. Hopefully they will last. Loosen the light cap by turning and remove it. Drill out the existing rivets, cut the white and black wire as close as you can to the old light. This will leave you plenty of wire to connect your replacement. Connect the new TL wires by braiding the wire ends to each respective color. I used electrical tape and heat shrink tubing for the finish. Tuck the extra wire back into the wire opening in the hull ceiling. Install the light base with new rivets and attached the light cap. When using these touch them gently. Don’t ask me how I know. 😎 Let there be light! Patriot🇺🇸 Pics- New light with heat shrink tubing. If for some reason you need rivets you can purchase these at Ace HW. They work fine.

The caulk around my shower pan was too thin and the flexing of the pan opened up a crack and allowed water under the pan which wound up under the black mat in the closet. I removed all of the old caulk and recaulked after placing a tractor weight in the shower pan to prestress the pan. Haven’t had any water under the black mat since doing this.

Here's one source on Amazon, many other choices but you have to make sure they are touch operated. Some only work from the switch source. https://www.amazon.com/Risestar-Ceiling-Interior-Lighting-3000-3500K/dp/B07TN6945F/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1KXMUHWEGLDGH&keywords=Led+RV+round+touch+control+puck+lights+4.5+inch&qid=1685286639&sprefix=led+rv+round+touch+control+puck+lights+4.5+inch%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-1

You haven’t got aggressive enough, by design it is really tough to remove. You need to abrade it with a sandpaper wheel or use a nasty solvent like MEK, but (straight) that will attack the plastic. I have had good luck with a brand new plastic scraper blade and 3M Adhesive Cleaner. It has a little MEK inside and works, but won’t hurt anything except your lungs, use with gloves in a ventilated area. It is my go-to cleaner, body shop use it for paint prep. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/66962O/3mtm-vhbtm-tape-disassembly-tech-bulletin.pdf FYI if you live near a city you can buy the cleaner at any auto body paint supply store for about $15. John Davies Spokane WA

Lucky Site 13, Tillicum Beach CG: John Davies Spokane WA

I had a brief look at an LE2 heading westbound through Redding, CA today a little before 1PM as I was driving home from shopping. I had to turn right as the Ollie was continuing straight, so I didn't have time to notice anything specific other than that it had dual awnings. I didn't notice the tow vehicle either. Olivers are rare in northern California (Bigfoot sightings, the critter, not the trailer only slightly more rare), and this was the first I've seen in town in three years.

I actually learned that it’s not a rumor. Oliver is moving away from touch lights in the 2024 Ollies and likely beyond. The light will be a little smaller than the present light and from what I also learned won’t allow a retro fit into earlier models. Patriot🇺🇸

Ours came loose on the curbside. Going to reattach the band using Gorilla Super Glue Double Sided Tape this week, one strip of double sided tape under each adhesive strip on the chrome band (between original band adhesive & hull) with the Gorilla tape under the chrome strip. Available at WalMart:

I installed Firestone airbags in the coils on the Land Cruiser, as did most of the other LC owners here. Minimum is 5PSI to avoid pinching. I started at 12PSI, and ended up at 15 PSI. Increasing the tow vehicle's tire pressure from the recommended 32 PSI to 36 PSI front and 39 PSI rear helped, too. As noted, supporting the rear of the vehicle, either with airbags or helper springs, does *not* increase the legal capacity of the vehicle. In my case, I removed a 40 pound roof basket and 100 pound second row seat to help augment the LC's 1440 pound load capacity. But as anyone at the rally can tell you, I probably had way more junk in the back than needed, so who knows where I was in real loading. (I basically took everything from my Hiker squaredrop (square teardrop trailer) and put it in the back of the LC.)

@Brian and Brandelyne: Good choice, IMO. We took your suggestion and replaced our cracked nuts with these a couple weeks ago - stayed tight after a 1400-mile R/T adventure... These have a very nice finish and seem to clean-up easily.

Thanks. Got it😊

I found a good selection at Summit Racing - THESE look really nice and they are $10 for a set of 4 so you would need 6 packs of them to complete your trailer. Brian

When I replaced the ones that were rusting on my Ollie I went with stainless steel like THESE. However, even though there has been no problem with the ones I bought, if I replace them again I would most likely purchase solid stainless steel nuts, Bill

As a retired attorney who was retained to defend claims by many insurance companies when I practiced, I second Mattnan's advice. Insurance adjusters are trained to close claims for minimum payouts, and to get them closed as quickly as possible. To "arm" yourself with facts, I would invest some time getting educated about the demonstrated caustic effects of the fire extinguisher you used, and which steps are necessary to remediate those effects. And, I would insist that any remediation done at the insurer's expense be effective to fully address those caustic effects. If you get pushback from the adjuster, I recommend you mention the term "bad faith." That is a term of art in insurance law, which refers to claims for breach of the insurance company's duty of good faith and fair dealing with its insureds. In most states, successful bad faith claims against insurers include an award of not only full compensation for loss by the insured, but the insured's attorneys' fees as well. Your odds of success on such a claim can only be reliably evaluated by an attorney in your state who specializes in bad faith claims, and who is appraised of all the facts, which will likely include how fully the damage from your fire, and fire suppression, has been remediated. But, be prepared for delay. A more fair settlement is usually a much delayed settlement. If your cash flow situation does not allow you to purchase a replacement tow vehicle (particularly in today's crazy-high market) without the payout from the insurer or sale of your repaired Tundra, you have a cost/benefit decision to make regarding how long you can afford to wait for payment by the insurer. Good luck! I would be interested in a report describing how it goes. Ralph Pond

This is too bad. And it really sucks on the vandalism. What are we comming too. It might be worth while to give them another call and inform them of how unhappy you are with their decision and that the trade value of the truck is greatly diminished due to the fire and corrosion. I would mention to them that you would prefer to not have to engage a lawyer but you may have to do that. The adjuster doesn't want to have to engage legal either internally or outside counsel. They generally have some flexibility. I worked for a different but very large national brand insurance company for over 20 years. While I was not on the casualty side of the business I did have many colleagues that were. I was able to use this approach when I was hit from the rear. I slow played the adjuster a bit refusing to sign off. Eventually they came up with more money and and I didn't have to engage a lawyer. Just a thought. Very fortunate you're ok. But wow. Good luck.

I am sorry and also very surprised to hear about your fire. That engine has been stone reliable in the past, it must have been a build issue… did you smell gasoline or could this have been electrical? Every vehicle needs an onboard extinguisher. A cheap dry chemical one will do if it is rated for fuel fires, but the powder residue is highly corrosive and must be removed immediately after! I suggest that everybody buy one of these for each of their vehicles, it fits in a glove box easily, runs for 30 seconds, leaves zero residue and never expires. I hope the price will come down, it is definitely too high IMHO, but it might save somebody's life one day. Most likely you would have to use it on another vehicle, but you never know. Do not call me anal, but my LC200 has two cheap box store extinguishers in the rear door pockets, for fast access from either side, and an Element in the glovebox…. And my small house has five extinguishers. 😳 Like bear spray, if you do not have a backup and need it, you could be in deep trouble. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4291-how-to-element-fire-extinguisher-install/ Please post some pics and keep us advised. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

In another thread I posted that I discovered three or four cracked lug nuts on the Sendel aluminum wheels I have on my '17 Oliver. The new set of bulge acorn lug nuts came today and I just want to make sure that they look ok/correct. They seat farther down into the hole than the originals and the threads are not as deep.(about a quarter inch difference) I have zero trouble sending them back, safety first! https://amzn.to/3FzxMFB If you look close you can see the crack in the overlay. The plan is to change them all out, torque to 90# and then again after 50 miles or so. Thanks for any input!

For those of you who are Passport America members, do I have to have the membership card when checking into a campground or can I sign up for Passport America before I show up at the campground and give them proof of membership purchase. It's difficult to receive our mail as we are full timers..always on the move. TIA, John

Someone took GREAT notes here! We attended most of the discussion but could not take notes. We are looking at a 2024 trip up to AK. Brian

Installed airbags on rear differentials on two vehicles and Timbren systems on two vehicles. Personally prefer air bags on the rear differential. Run 5PSI when unloaded and 20PSI towing Ollie. Did not install onboard compressor for airbags, instead installed valve stems to release pressure or pressurize each bag as license plate mount studs: Use our 4 cylinder Tacoma to only move Ollie around the house (builds Tacoma's confidence) , 30PSI in Tacoma's air bags, with no sag 🙂:

Ours also came off, same place, or rather was mostly off and I completed the task. Personally I don't care for the aesthetics of the chrome trim anyway but have not decided what to install in its place, so for now I have simply left it off with the seam and drilled holes showing. FWIW there was very little glue left and only at the two corners.

Pricey but high quality.

First pic - isn't viewable, FYI...

...now go out and make some family memories! Congrats!

Hey folks, I did a "quick'ish" video regarding upgrading our lug nuts to solid chrome versions. I hope it's helpful to someone. I try to make fun of myself and any mistakes I made. Hopefully others will learn from them. LOL. I'm till learning how I should present. Much more to learn. Please let me know if I said anything too terribly wrong!

thanks

Not a Tundra but the new ‘24 Tacoma really has me interested as a daily driver. Never owned a Toyota, it might be my gateway drug…

As the previous person said…sept to mid October is perfect time. Our blog exists outside of facebook here on our own domain: 4-ever-hitched.com Craig

On my phone, I just touch the trophy button, and all the emojis pop up.

"Hover" your cursor over the "thank you" button until a panel slides out to the left. Then move your cursor over the button you'd like to hit and left click. If you would rather make another choice then you can always left click the little "x" above your choice and then repeat the steps above to make another choice. Bill

These are the best deal I found and it took me a couple of years to find them. They are solid stainless steel. No outer sheath. Seat is perfect and they look great. $3.67 each.

OK, manufacturer told me they DON'T have a locking plate for the larger Predator generators at this time. Maybe in the future.

@PatriotI already replaced most of them. I didn't realized until I started putting them on that I only ordered a 20 piece set, but needed 24 nuts. I'll get more a my local auto store tomorrow. Shop around for some better quality than I got, but here is the size. 24 count 1.38 inch Chrome 1/2-20 Closed End Bulge Acorn Lug Nuts - Cone Seat - 19mm Hex Wheel Lug Nut How about these: https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Closed-Bulge-Acorn-Wheel/dp/B07SLDRL14

Update - Please disregard my request above. I could not locate a company that makes a cover for the Truma Aventa, so I just ordered a custom cover from this company- https://www.coversandall.com/?utm_source=transactional_email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=footer The same company that is also crafting my Honda 3200i custom cover. I will post up my review of quality fit and finish of both these custom covers once I receive them. Patriot🇺🇸

I guarantee you that there will be NO popped interior rivets on your Oliver. Ever.

Anita, if you are following this post, we hope your recovery is going well. Falling down stairs and the surgery is a lot to deal with. The fact that your surgery was so long because of previous hip replacement makes it even more serious. We pray for God to heal you quickly and that life will be back to normal soon.

Thank you do very much for your detailed information. As always, the best.

Here's the rub. Is it nice to have a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup to tow? Sure. Bigger the better. It's always easier with a bigger TV. Been there, done that, back in the day.. Been towing for over 55 years, first with my dad. I had a special license, and we probably towed a lot of trailers that wouldn't pass,today. (Overloaded, then, for sure, by today's standards.) But, we towed safely, and made every cross country trip. Even so, back then, learned about loading and balancing. You do NOT need a 3/4 or 1 ton truck to tow an Oliver 2. You will need a wdh, and a legit tow package, with a half ton. You may need to watch payload. You will not be able to carry all the contents of your garage workbench with a half ton, or a rock collection, or a gazzillion heavy spare parts. If your tow vehicle fits specs, and has the above, and especially if you already know how to tow, you'll be fine, imo.

Wiring... Hoo boy, this was very bad. Here is the terminal strip as delivered. Black and Red are 12 volts DC negative and positive. It is crowded as can be but secure and neat looking. Here are the two provided adapter cables: It took me 30 minutes to figure out how they went "letter to letter". Initial test run, no smoke, the compressor ran quietly and cooled! It took me less than five seconds to decide that there is no way that sort of Rube Goldberg mess would survive a bumpy trailer ride. I decided to run all the connections up to a bus strip near the top front. Unplugged the old unused thermostat wires (from inside the fridge), secured them and heat shrinked them; Here is the electrical noise suppressor (capacitor), which came apart in my hands as I was inspecting it. Note: You cannot just stick a tiny bare wire into a big crimp connector and expect it to be secure: Soldered it, heat shrinked it, ran the unit up top. This is heavy self-adhesive heat shrink, with the open end crimped with pliers while hot, no moisture can get in: Here is how I made insulated boots for the new 1/4" female spade wire terminals that had to go onto that very crowded terminal strip at the compressor.

I had some split/cracked 2 piece clad lug nuts as well. I just replaced all of my lug nuts with solid one piece Gorilla lug nuts from Summit Racing. I don’t think the new ones actually seat any deeper into the rim. The conical seating area of the lug nut and rim are the standard 60 degree taper. It just looks like it seats deeper because the new lug nuts don’t have the stainless steel clad cover that protrudes right at the rim. And the female thread depth on the new lug nut is more than enough to fully engage all of the male threads on the lug. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-41187htb

As I understand it, in city traffic situations the hybrid exhaust system on a Prius does not get hot enough to use a conventional converter because of intermittent engine operation. To counter that, they need to use more of the catalyst to reduce the emissions. The other thing about them that is attractive to thieves, is that they are cleaner and easier to salvage because the intermittent use results in less buildup of carbon etc. That gets them a petter price when they sell them. I speculate that most of the converters are going to scrapyards. They turn around and sell them to companies that recover the precious metals. It is not like you can just cut one open and metal pellets fall out. It is a bit more complicated than that. It is doubtful that thieves themselves are recovering rhodium and palladium in abandoned warehouses. They are selling them to scrap dealers and metal recyclers, and that is what needs to stop. The unscrupulous operators of these establishments know damn well that the people who bring them in did not just find sawed off converters laying on the side of the road.

I am somewhat kidding but you may also remind them that your quick thinking may have saved some lives and additional property damage resulting in much larger payouts. I am not sure if you have the same insurance company on your home or your driveway sustained any damage. Rivernerd is far more versed in this than I am. Good luck you did the Insurance company solid by being resourceful and putting out the fire your self. If you waited for the fire department no matter how quickly they arrived, it would have been worse. Good luck to you.

Tundra Fire Update Well the good news for all of you Tundra owners out there is that the fire was not Toyota's fault. Someone cut my fuel line and the return line while attempting to steal my catalytic converter. The thieves are lucky that it did not ignite when they cut it. It took several weeks for Toyota to respond back to me with their findings, and a month for State Farm to decide what they are going to do about it. State Farm will not total the truck. They are going to replace the entire wiring harness, fuel lines, and assorted melted or otherwise damaged parts. I put out the fire with a dry chemical fire extinguisher. It is a powder finer than talcum powder and it is everywhere under and in the engine compartment on the drivers side and all over the firewall. My research indicates that the chemical used in my extinguisher is corrosive, particularly to electronics. It has been sitting on there for a month. State Farm does not think that this is an issue and the adjuster contests that it may have caused hidden damage. By the way, the adjuster never came to look at it. State Farm sent an independent agent to take photos and send them to their adjuster for analysis. I don't want to go through the aggravation of pursuing a lawsuit that will drag on for months with a company as large and powerful as State Farm. Until this is all settled I have no tow vehicle. My wife's Xterra has enough power, but the suspension and short wheelbase make it unsafe (IMHO) for towing a travel trailer. I can ill afford to have some hidden damage pop up and give me issues when far from home with Ollie in tow. I have authorized repairs and I will end up trading it in or selling it. It is probably the worst time ever to be shopping for a new truck, but that is what I am faced with. Rather than wallow in self pity, when the chips are down I tend to look at all the good things in my life that I am thankful for. One thing in particular is that my niece and her family are safe. They live in Mayfield KY and the tornado passed just beyond their backyard. Only damage they suffered was the loss of a big tree. They lost their church though, and possibly some friends or acquaintances, but they are okay. I don't know if they have power and water restored yet. I simply can't imagine the magnitude of despair those folks down there are going through. Many of them have lost everything. Makes my current truck problem seem very petty indeed.

Bumping this thread, I am keeping an eye out for possible Black Friday sales, since I want to buy three more of these for Christmas gifts. The manufacturer did have a BF event a few years back, however I do not know if that is common. So, if anyone sees these discounted with free shipping anywhere, such as at Expedition Portal, please post a heads up message here. https://elementfire.com/collections/allproducts Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

We have a 2018 Toyota Tundra and just got a preliminary service bulletin on potential fires related to the wiring harness connected to the high beam head lights. No remedy yet. No idea if there’s any connection to your truck. Glad you and your wife are okay. Quick thinking with the fire extinguisher.

Wow! Glad you are okay. Will be very interested in what might have been the cause! Mike

When JD posted about the Element fire extinguisher I remembered someone else had talked about it before. So I went looking for it. Then you mentioned a post about it and I was already looking at your 2019 post, so I just responded with the link. Sorry it’s not the one your looking for as I don’t stomp around on the expedition forum. Mossey