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I saw this earlier in the day and have been waiting for someone else to challenge this statement. I agree with the general statement that as AC frequency increases, current will as well. It just doesn't apply to those of us who connect our camper to the power grid. Maybe if you were boondocking and running a crude generator the frequency could change with a change in load, but not if powered by the grid. AC frequency in the US is fixed at the power plant at 60 Hz (in Europe and many other places it's 50 Hz). As far as I know there is no changing the AC frequency with any of our appliances or by loads at the campground. The purpose of having the EMS display a code for frequency is because you could be running off of a non-inverter generator, such as a PTO driven farm generator. You can end up with high or low frequency AC power if the tractor's PTO turns the generator input shaft too fast or too slow. It's very unlikely that this is the issue. A normal multi-meter doesn't have a setting for measuring AC frequency. A specialized multi-meter or an oscilloscope would be able to measure AC line frequency. Most of us are not carrying those specialized tools in our camper. HTH, Ken (I took a couple of electrical engineering classes a long time ago as engineering degree electives. If I've got it wrong myself, I don't mind being corrected. It's not something I use everyday.)

Yep - water vapor is a by-product of burning propane. Thus, unless vented, the Mr.Heater will simply add moisture to the interior of the Ollie. I always have the bath door open with the bath vent open plus have either a window cracked or have the main ceiling vent opened when using my Mr.Heater. As Ron states - Bill

I've installed several dozen rivnuts and would not consider installing them in a fiberglass hole. They take too much effort to expand and I think they would at a minimum bulge the surrounding fiberglass. I wasn't familiar with these, but looked them up. I especially agree that the aluminum version would be great solution. The literature specifically mentions use in fiberglass as an application. If you have a Rivnut installation tool I bet it would work with these too.

I am a huge fan of AirTags and have them on many of my high value items. Please correct me if I am wrong, but I think that they can be disabled if they follow an iPhone that they are not registered to. I’m not sure how long it takes to notify the user of the non registered iPhone, but based on experience with AirTags registered to me, my wife’s phone notifies her within ten minutes if we take my truck with an AirTag in it and leave my phone at home. Btw, a recent iOS update allows you to register AirTags to multiple users.

I installed a NovaKool fridge about five years ago and went with the 12/120 volt option. I figured that while boondocking and traveling I would use the 12 volt option and while connected to shore power I would use the 120 volt option. The fridge chooses either 12 volts or 120 volts automatically whichever one is available. The 12/120 fridge was over $200 more expensive than the 12 volt option. Some time ago we were at a campground that experienced several extreme power surges and even with the Oliver installed surge protector, the compressor control unit was still damaged. Fortunately I was able to use the 12 volt option until I could buy a replacement controller. About a week later we were on the coast and could easily get a new control unit (these fridges are used on many larger boats and probably can get a replacement controller at a semi truck repair shop) and it only took about a half hour to replace the controller. I still bought the 12/120 control unit but now typically only use the 12 volt option by turning the 120 volt breaker off in the trailer power distribution panel. I haven’t had any issues with using 12 volts only all of the time. Having said that, having the option of using either 12 volts or 120 volts gives you more flexibility. Especially if you have lithium batteries I think you would be fine either way.

Now we know how they recharge after a tough travel day… I’ll see myself out😇

@mossemi, you gave me a good idea! The EMS only monitors the incoming 30A 120V shore power. The Inverter (any model) pulls from the batteries, inverting 12VDC into 120V AC at 60 Hz, and in doing so is truly independent of the EMS. @mccc99 do you have an Inverter 1800W or greater? Then disconnect shore power. Does your microwave run off the Inverter with or without the same error? Mine pulls over 125A (1500W) and runs fine on the Xantrex 2000W Inverter. Our last RV, the numbers were the same. This would be a good troubleshooting step. Let us know what you find!

The Smart Plug looks to be perhaps a quicker connection? Water tight? What is the criteria? Is the OEM outlet/plug inferior? I like the screw ring on the OEM plug, it's in there, a SOLID connection. I'm with some others here, not my time and money. Sheesh, I've made a dozen upgrades in just 6 months, didn't think of this one. With solar we rarely connect, and the cord mostly sits in the Oliver trunk!

Should work, plusnut is another option. The flange on a rivnut is fairly small, a pre-bulb plusnut expands significantly more than a rivnut when compressed. And plusnuts are not as critical with the hole diameter as rivnuts, so a great option for fibreglass I think.

I recently did a fairly deep dive on lithium battery powered leaf blowers in attempting to come up with the best blower to use after washing our rig. I wanted a cordless blower since I occasionally wash our truck and Ollie while on the road. Yep, we like a clean rig, just us.😊 This YouTuber does a a pretty decent in-depth comparison of (8) battery powered blowers. His info helped me finally decide to purchase the EGO Lithium powered 765. So today with my Lowe’s Veterans discount I paid $296.10 for the EGO 765 with charger, 56v battery and attachment's. I ordered the shorter nozzel/tube with silicone tip soft tip off Amazon. This shorter nozzel/tube seems to be much easier way to maneuver the blower while drying a car or truck. The 765 will travel with us in the bed of our truck. After charging the battery and briefly testing out the EGO 765 on our rain soaked Ford Ranger today, I am initially very impressed with its water removal/drying power. It will be interesting to see how well it will perform regarding battery run time on our rig. I will post up additional info after putting the EGO 765 through its paces. A clean shiny rig makes a for a happy rig owner!😄 Patriot🇺🇸 https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=ego leaf blower https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQMR622L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I pulled my propane tank out and was horrified at all the rust around the bottom ring of the tanks, and on the mounting tray. That area seems to attract dirt and it eventually wore away the paint and rusted. Sand paper and paint fixed the immediate problem, but I wanted to prevent it from happening again. I started looking for some sheet rubber on Amazon, but then I discovered inexpensive rubber rings by Mopeka Products for$ 7.99. They are designed to fit on the bottom ring of the propane tanks. They fit perfectly, and they also stop that cringe worthy grind when putting the tanks on pavement.

What will your truck cargo/payload capacity be when loaded ready to camp? This was a very important number for our style of camping. We really considered the new Tundra, it fell too short in payload capacity. 1400 + lbs was not enough payload capacity to allow us to lawfully and safely carry our gear ready to camp. With our 1 ton diesel payload is not a concern. It really boils down to how you plan to travel and camp. Patriot🇺🇸

So - now you have to stay up at night worrying about the kids getting under the dinette and licking those crooked USB ports.😁

A good source for the footman loops, straps, buckles, etc. is Strapworks in Eugene, Oregon.

We use a Craftsman leaf blower that uses the same Li battery all our other Craftsman hand tools use (drill motors, saws, angle grinders, LED light, vacuum, etc.) - it's handy to use to blow out Husky hair from the interior of the TV as well as the Casa Blanca... WOOF!

These are great heaters, but come with many precautions; so anyone using them should be well versed. Proper ventilation is key, but even with that I experienced humidity issues when using; condensation on the interior windows would form and run down the wall onto the bedding. Breathing alone can create this condition, but the Mr. Heater seemed to worsen the problem and thus, no longer carry with. However, Mr. Heater is a great alternative to a gas fire pit!

This is why @John E Davies in another thread replaced his single monitor with two special purpose monitors. Turns out this may be a bit overboard, a concern for those who are risk adverse! Not me, more of the risk-taking sort, being extremely lucky to have survived the 70s! 🤪 According to this org, Carbon Monoxide Facts - Healthy Building Science, "CO is slightly lighter than air. However, studies have shown no significant difference in measurements based on what height CO detectors are mounted." Thank you @Patriot for bringing this to our attention. Previous owner installed this same unit on mine. Hey, if this thing rings loud in the middle of the night, I don't need a switch. Just open the rear seat of the dinette and pull either wire away from the 3M Scotchlok used by OTT to connect it or use a wire cutter! To install a new one, yes pull the fuse, or if you're careful you can cut the wires, one at a time and wire it hot. That would be me, a low amp 12VDC circuit, just a minor jolt if you ground yourself! Just don't splice the hot (red) until you are ready to crimp it into a new butt connector. I would not have known these sensors have date codes, likely for legal vs. technical reasons, though I may be wrong on this one (does the sensor age or wear out in some way?). Looks like mine is good for another 2 1/2 years. BTW, the build date is not important, just as long as you are within the expiration date. Hey, who installed the USB receptacle? OTT did. It sure looks crooked (the pet peeve of the perennial installer)! I cut the flap off the USB ports since the cover just gets in the way (we don't use cigarette lighter outlets).

Could you have accidentally posted the error code incorrectly? Error Code E513H Fault E513H This is a fault with the Over heat thermostat. It normally occurs when the heater is asked to heat the water on the HOT setting, and may be intermittent, but the system may be fine on the eco water heating setting or if the heater is just being used for space heating.

You didn't mention the conditions under which you are camping. Are you boondocking or in a campground with full hookups? If you have electricity, I would suggest going out and buying a small electric heater. It will easily heat your trailer to 70 degrees or more. We keep one with us at all times. If you are boondocking, just put on some extra cover or clothes. You could still buy the electric heater and run it off your generator or for short stints off the batteries. How long you can run the heater is dependent of the type batteries you have. We even carry a Mr. Heater Portable Buddy gas heater that runs off a small propane bottle or a larger tank with an auxiliary hose. We like to have every eventuality covered. I don't like being inconvenienced by something breaking down on the road.

Do you carry a multimeter in your Oliver? If so, check out the power readings at the campsite power pedestal. More often than not, EMS issues are caused by "dirty" power from a campsite pedestal. I always verify the voltage at the pedestal with my multimeter before plugging in my 30A power cord.

Why not? Let me see - its New Year's Eve, ALL service centers are closed (to include the chance of getting hold of anyone at Oliver). You have a problem and you get THE answer in short order. What's not to like? Besides, it is the collective knowledge of this Forum's members that make the Forum the place it is. Certainly there is something or some place that you can add to the discussion that will surely help another member have a better experience with their Ollie and camping in general. Thanks to GJ for the information above - it looks like you are plugged into shore power that is not up to standard. Bill

8 amps 60 hertz 125 volts and CODE 7. Below may be useful GJ OM - Progressive Industries HW30-50C (4 MAR 2023).pdf

True, @topgun2, since we usually camp without hookups, made no difference to us, but... Also, if 12v system ever went down, 110 can be plugged in and you'd not lose all your food.

Flashing from one to the other is the standard interface and I read these numbers as being fine. Others said that already, but if the numbers are fine, it shows the campground pedestal is also FINE. You are getting 125V at 60 HZ and at the time of your reading, your Oliver was pulling 8 amps. Nothing wrong here! E0 means NO Error Code. You do not have an "EMS ISSUE" nor do you have a Shore Power issue! You have an internal issue with the microwave or its electrical circuit. Meaning issue is in your latter statement, "When I try to use my microwave it cuts off after a few seconds." When this occurs, does the AC breaker for the microwave trip? (Although our old hull does not have a separate AC breaker for the microwave. What!?) Does any AC breaker trip? If so, the microwave is pulling more amperage than the circuit design. Does the microwave "cut off" without tripping the breaker? Then your issue is within the microwave internal circuits (which means replace the microwave). Your PD EMS-HW30C is working as designed and the numbers reported by the display show a satisfactory shore power connection.

Thanks ScubaRx and Dud B. Dud B, I did try the reset in video you replied with and the same condition or code returned. ScubaRx, thanks for ideas and yes we do need to bring a secondary heat source in the future. Tomorrow we're pulling stakes and heading home from this little shake down run with our Ollie. I did see the 513 code and thought the same as you, but it I tripled checked it and it does say E 13 H. Thanks to both of you all. Tomorrow when everything opens back up I'm sure between Oliver and Truma we'll be able to get this figured out.

As AC frequency increases, current will as well. That said, I have no idea of how much of an increase. My bet is the EMS is simply protecting your Oliver.

Another great use for the two step Rubbermaid step ladder we carry. Makes a decent seat, when working lower. My husband uses knee pads a lot, too , sometimes along with a gardening pad. Even if you're younger, it's important to protect your knees. And if you're not, like us, well.... it's just that much more comfort.

I carry one of my throwable boat cushions with me at all times. Generally is sits between our Honda 2200 and the curb side rear of the F-150 bed. Great to kneel on when doing low work, or place on a 5 gallon bucket when doing mid height work. Much better than a towel. An because it serves as a pad between the generator and the aluminum truck bed, it is almost always where I am.

Happy New Year, everyone!

Happy New Year!! Now, let’s go camping…..

Happy 123123 day! The end of a year, the promise of new beginnings and new adventures!

That seems like a good size. However, if you build a pull-through, you lose any storage on the back wall. Something to consider if you want to store some camping gear in there, too. We just built a 30'x30' wood framed garage with two bay doors, each 10' wide by 12' high, and some storage/work area on the side. The trusses are 14' up. The 10' wide doors are fine for an Oliver. No trouble backing in. I use a traffic delineator post as a target for the rearview camera. You can see it in one of the photos. (We couldn't do a stripe on the floor because our dually's hips block my view of the trailer wheels.) We didn't install a 30A plug because we don't intend to run the trailer A/C in there, but we do have a 20A circuit for battery charging, etc.

If you have the available space and budget, bigger is always better. I built a 30'x30' x 16' H (to the bottom of the rafters) "boat shed" for my raft trailer, rafts and related boating gear in 2018. It has a 16' W x 14' H garage door. It seemed spacious until the wife decided in 2020 that we needed an Oliver Elite II. Our 2021 Elite II fits in one of the two bays of the boat shed, but I have had to rig up some creative rafter storage for my rafts frames, etc. to make it work with my raft trailer on the other side. And, I am now out of storage space! So, we are laying plans to add another bay to it, hopefully beginning next spring. Moral of the story: If you can afford it, overbuild. You will never regret it. But, like me, you may regret underbuilding.

My 2018 drawer bottom thickness is pretty thin. Longer screws would not work. Fatter ones maybe. But I chose small SS bolts with small washers and nylocks. Art (Max Burner) and I replaced them and with the bolt heads/washers on top, they pilled down enough into the drawer base that they are not a problem. Certainly we'll not find any drawers up by the bathroom again. GJ

Basically nothing- especially if you get an honest 20 amp outlet. I am able to run my AC and microwave on my 20 amp plug out of my garage. At the very least you will be able to run one or the other... meaning maybe you couldn't do too many heavy users at the same time. (example, electric toaster, microwave and AC)

Humor notwithstanding, I believe this is the correct answer. It is not complicated. First, lets look at what happens when you connect to shore power 30 amp receptacle. In this normal situation, the 30 amp shore power outlet will pass a maximum of 3,600 watts continuous power to your Ollie (30 amps x 120 volts = 3,600 watts). If you turn on too many appliances in the Ollie (including battery charger and air conditioner, fridge, etc.) such that you are consuming more than 3.600 watts, then the 30 amp breaker on the shore power receptacle will likely trip. It is difficult but not impossible to to draw more than 3,600 watts in the Ollie but could happen if the batteries were charging at a 150 amp rate consuming 2,100 watts (150 amps x 14 volts =2,100), and you turned on the microwave at 1,000 watt setting, and turned on the air conditioner all at the same time, you would be trying to draw more than 4,000 watts from the 30 amp shore power outlet and the 30 amp breaker in the shore power post will trip. The only thing different when you connect to a 20 amp shore power outlet is the shore power outlet will only pass a maximum of 2,400 watts before the 20 amp breaker protecting the shore power outlet will trip. In this case, you need to be diligent to keep your continuous consumption in the Ollie to less than 2,400 watts. This is easy to do if you change the charger setting to something lower than 150 amp maximum charging rate. I almost always choose to connect to the 20 amp shore power outlet when I am just stopping for the night somewhere and not unhitching. It is less work than to having to dig into the back of the basement to retrieve the heavy 30 amp cord and put it away later. Instead, I quickly plug in using a 25 foot lightweight 12 AWG extension cord with a 20 amp to 30 amp adapter. It allows me to simultaneously charge the batteries at 80 amps (1,120 watts, the maximum my 2,000 watt inverter will do) run the air conditioner or microwave at reduced power, and watch the 120 volt TV all simultaneously without drawing more than 20 amps of shore power. I can also run all 12 volt loads (e.g., furnace, lights, water pump, etc.) that I want without increasing the draw on shore power since all 12 volt loads draw their power from the batteries. The next morning, it takes me only two minutes to disconnect and stow the 12 AWG extension cord in the back of the TV. As Rolind said above, you will probably need to back down the maximum charge rate limit setting on your charger if you connect to only 20 amps, depending on what other 120 volt loads you want to run simultaneously in the Ollie.

JUST THE BEDS. But I recommend using just a 4" topper over the stock mattreses. It would bed less expensive and less troublesome for forragng under the beds and quite comfortable as well. GJ

FOR THE TWIN BEDS; We went with 6" memory foam. 4" would be a better choice should we ever need to replace them. GJ

I didn't do anything but find old posts. Thanks to the folks who posted the info. @AndrewK @Galway Girl

Actually, I want to have a waterproof encasement made for the KTTs and was asked for the radius dimension. The thread SeaDawg highlighted was very helpful. I appreciate your helpfulness, as well! Thanks

Maybe this thread will be of help?

We haven't gone anywhere yet with the new changes but I also hadn't really used that cabinet before either, just had some plastic food containers in it. I moved the containers to a better spot so I feel like it will be a great place for the glasses. And now the cabinets and closet don't feel as cramped and no items are just shoved in to holes. Looks nice! 😉

This does not surprise. From the chart above one could even assume a tire pressure of 40 and perhaps even 35 might be adequate given the weight of a 6000 lb trailer. From various other online charts I've come across they tend to be approximately the same as above. Thanks

Received the Air Tags and removed all four speakers. It’s not difficult to do and all four are mute now.

Nicely done and good for Tochta. Perhaps this proves that there are companies other than Oliver that do business the way it should be done. Bill

I finally got this project done. I ended up ordering a mattress from Tochta with dimensions of 78x75x10. When I put the mattress in the trailer and unpackaged it the actual dimensions we 78x77 which was too long. There was zero room around the top and bottom of the mattress. I called Tochta and they asked me to send pictures of the measurements. They got back to me and offered to give me $400 back if this mattress would work or to just have me donate this one and they would send me a new one. I chose a new one with dimensions of 76x74x10. It arrived less than a week later and fits perfectly. Mattress is very comfortable and Tochta's customer service is top notch! John

Hi Brian, They were 2 months old! Don't know if anyone else had any problems. Both mattresses had issues. I've asked 4 or 5 couples and they indicated they had no problems. Best of luck with your decision.

In John D. Original post he mentioned the upper sides of the drawer panels were already clear-coated, hence my suggestion the bottom could be done likewise to seal & stabilize. It was just a thought, I may do nothing to my drawers until it’s necessary.

I have done (0) nothing to my drawers in 15 seasons. Just saying. The format is what it is.