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Happy 4th of July to Everyone! Gunnison NF, Colorado -- dispersed camping with weather

Moose and Elk have been spotted by other people a week or so ago, but I haven't seen them yet. I watch, especially during morning and evening hours. Lots of deer including newborn spotted fawns. Lots of birds, though not as many raptors as I expected. I haven't had any issues with bugs -- I suspect because I'm perched on an open ridge overlooking the river, and the wind blows steadily. In the forest areas, it's a different story.

All of you were lots of help! I disappeared for awhile because, honestly, I needed to back up and learn some basics to even understand some of the terms y’all used. @Steve and MA, that was exactly the info I needed for our rooftop panels; I copied that to Renogy. @mossemi, I wasn’t able to easily access the specs for the rooftop panels without removing the panels - and I didn’t want to do that! @rich.dev, I, too, don’t know why Renogy thought they needed the specs of the rooftop panels.🤔 Their website did reveal, however, that it is no problem connecting two 100 watt suitcases and having the controller on only one. As @SeaDawg and many others have stated, yep, the polarity on our Zamp port was reversed, and we used an adapter. @jd1923, figuring all this out was quite a challenge, so thanks for the encouragement saying we have a GREAT setup. In the end, we have the option of using either one or both of our Renogy 100 watt suitcases. I am grateful to @Geronimo John who originally (on a different thread) suggested we purchase two 100w suitcases rather than one heavy and bulky 200w suitcase. Time to go boondock!

If you have not visited it already, tour Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP. Breath taking!

Be sure to check road conditions -- Route 50 closed in sections (bridge work) and also some local flooding last week. I will keep my eyes peeled for Olivers on the road!

In our retrofit install of the tf130, we sealed both vents. (We had both.) We added insulation to the vents, and the sides of the cavity, still leaving an airgap around the fridge. Made sure we had more than 24 square inches of venting, to the interior. No more screening necessary to keep mud daubers out. We've never had an overtemp issue in ours. Normally run the fridge on 5 or so. But, we don't camp in 95 or 100+ degree weather, either. I leave that to younger, more heat tolerant folks. We do keep plenty of cold sink foods/beverages in the fridge. All fridges seem to work better when loaded, vs empty/lightly loaded. As someone else suggested, all the cold comes from the tiny freezer. I think the temp sensor is within the wall of the freezer, as well. There are some air slots at the back. Maybe move your fan from center to left, and try to draw more cool air from the freezer? You could also have a faulty thermostat. Isotherm sells a kit which includes a sensor in the fridge cavity, as well. Many boater use it. I think Overland installed it for his, maybe. I'll see what I find. The other suggestions of shading the fridge side are good. Wondering if you have a true 24 square inches of interior venting?

Thank you. I think I will wait to try that for a time when I have caulk on hand to repair -- but I've been curious about that space.

@Boudicca908Pry off the 4 plastic caps, remove the screws, cut the caulk around the insert using a plastic razor blade. If you intend to remove the insert be sure you have everything on hand to replace it. Keep in mind that the caulk will need to cure for a certain time before it can be wetted. I have taped a piece of plastic over the hole in order to use the shower before I replaced the insert.

There are 2 issues. First when you open the door, the cold drops out. You learn to know what you need, open, grab, and close,🙃 Fact of life. The small fan will be a benefit in either a compressor fridge or absorbsion fridge. It circulates air in the fridge, and will have "Zero" negative affect. In our truck camper, we built a shade to provide shade over the 2 vents. 2023 LE2 has one (1) vent and the 2024 LE2 has none as it vents to the interior. Earlier models have the absorbsion fridge and 2 vents. Suggest that you add 2 computer fans behind the upper vent screen if you have a LE2 2023 or earlier. Someone will have to assist with how to wire. The fan I installed in our truck camper behind the upper vent, along with the battery operated fan in the fridge made a huge difference. One learns to park to lessen the sum exposure to the curb side of the trailer. A shade over the vents all will help.

@jd1923, the op reports that he has an isotherm/dc danfoss compressor fridge. 2016s like yours had 3ways as original equipment. Have ypu upgraded yours? @DunnYet, we've never used a fan in our truckfridge (similar to your isotherm. Same interior, same compressor.) Try without it. Your isotherm vents to the interior of the trailer, not exterior. Is anything blocking interior venting? Any ice buildup in the shoebox freezer?

The GX550 is a beautiful vehicle. I would be hesitant to buy one right now as it's the same V35A engine (although slightly de-tuned) as the ones listed in the recall. 2024 Tundras aren't being recalled (yet), even though there are reports of engine failures in them as well. I'm sure there will be a fix, but I would wait until that fix is implemented at the factory. Really don't want a service tech at the dealer pulling and rebuilding a very complex twin-turbo V6. But maybe that's just me. I'm a huge Toyota/Lexus fan and a former Boeing employee. Both companies that I have (had) tremendous respect for have really let a lot of people down...

Exactly! They guide my 4 AM forays to check the plumbing and I sleep with my 👀 closed, so they do bother my sleeping habits.😉 Mossey

Got everything done today on the air fryer installation. I put quarter-round along the base and 3M 3350 to seal all the edges and seams. Found a decent piece of angle aluminum as a trim piece to make the bottom opening look better and remounted the faceplate.

You can find some that have a mounting plate => [Upgraded Version] 12V USB Outlet Qidoe 78W 3 Port USB C 12V Outlet Dual PD 30W & 18W USB A Port with Voltmeter Lengthened Aluminum Body Switch Waterproof USB Car Charger Socket for Car Boat Marine RV https://a.co/d/07mCzHx6 The most I have seen using the ones I installed to charge an iPad is 4.5 amp or around 52 watts. I really just wanted USB-C connections since everything has switched over to that and to be able to fast charge my phone, iPad, etc. Of course the MacBook can charge easily from 50w as well. But I am not an electrician and routinely do things that are above my experience level so I will be the first to say don’t do what I do without doing your own homework.

Each year prior to heading out to the Rockies to fish for a couple of months, I treat several changes of cloths with THIS STUFF. It lasts through washings and helps keep the bugs off for about 6 weeks. Have a great trip! Bill

They replace the existing socket. Check under your dinette seat and you can easily see what to do. I have a picture of mine (have not upgraded yet). You only need to pull two spade terminals (blue wire +) and then there is a threaded ring. To get to the one over the bed, you will have to pull the rubber liner in the cabinet. The picture shows the ones in our older hull have screws left and right. The ones Mike shows above do not have these. I may have to patch the screw holes or perhaps there is a trim ring on mine that could just stay. There are many models of these depending on your needs. The one @rideadeuce linked above has a 65W USB-C required for iPads. If you are only charging phones, 65W may be overkill (I do not know if extra wattage can hurt a phone). This one has two 20W USB-C posts and a USB3: Amazon.com: USB C Car Charger Socket – Newest 58W Lengthened RV USB Outlet 12V Socket Dual 20W PD3.0 USB-C and 18W QC3.0 Car USB Port with Button Power Switch for Boat Marine Motorcycle : Cell Phones & Accessories This is a most simple install. A good way to get started and soon you will do more complicated tasks!

New to us Oliver Legacy Elite II (2023) Hull #1364. Have spent the weekend in the Texas Hlll Country updating my knowledge of Oliver systems from our two year journey with LE I Hull #1030 (2022). Only two problems so far. Giving each issue it’s own topic for future search help. In this topic - our problems with the Isothem fridge. We can’t keep it in the safe zone consistently. We have SensorPush sensors in the main compartment as well as the freezer - the freezer seems to work great but the fridge hovers at the top of the safe zone for much of the day. Recovery after opening the door also seems to take longer than our old tri-fuel fridge. Here is the full scenario: (1) Shore power 30 Amp all tests good. No issues with any other systems (AC/ lighting / etc) (2) We have a fridge fan that we moved over from our LE I tri fuel. It’s located in the center of the fridge space and operating correctly. (3) Weekend food load - not a lot but not empty. (4) Confirmed that the vent cover is in place on the exterior vent opening. Have read everything I can find searching the forums. It does not appear that the previous owners did any extra insulation on the exterior wall, should I get some reflective blanket material and put that in covering from the upper vent to the lower access panel? Fins and back side of the fridge look clean, so I don’t think there is an issue with buildup on the coils. Appreciate any advice on how to improve the operation on the fridge. I don’t want to have to haul a backup fridge if I don’t need to.

@jd1923 - We absolutely count on at least one feast daily; if there's others around we'll do an AM and PM food fest! HA!

Yum, yum!

My impression is that Campendium (highly successful) was too much competition for RoadPass, so they acquired it and plan to kill it off in order to .... What? Acquire user data? Sell user data? I don't believe they provide the same service, so it's hard to say what they are doing.

I have used Campendium (which I like pretty well) and when they sent notice that they were going to 'change' login requirements for Campendium to require a 'RoadPass account' I went ahead and signed up for a RoadPass account -- but I have never paid for any of it. RoadPass (the developer) has a competing app called RoadTrippers. The RoadTrippers experience made me want to vomit. It's like Travel Planning for people who don't want to think for themselves at all (sorry to be blunt) -- they create your route and tell you where to go and what to see. In fact, it seems to send you to all the most-crowded places (someone here can correct me if I'm wrong about that.) Ummm.... No Thanks. My Campendium app still shows dispersed camping spots, even though articles stated that the app would be disabled in a few weeks (reported in FEB 2024). I do NOT pay for Premium. Other people have told me that they don't see dispersed camping any more on their Campendium app, ever since RoadPass takeover (they use iPad). I use the iPhone Campendium app and am signed in using the RoadPass user account. I have since started using iOverlander. It's not as user friendly, imo. The maps are harder to read. I find iOverlander easier to use on a computer, and I have gained good information from users notes. There seem to be two different versions of iOverlander (on my iphone, one app is dark orange with white logo, the other is white with dark orange logo; I haven't been able to distinguish them.) Again, I do not pay for any of it. Neither of the iOverlander apps show the area where I am currently boondocked. I hope this helps.

Ran a valid test today. Had to wait 24 hours for the glue to set on the vents. Cooked hash brown patties for our breakfast today. The Emeril was set on air fryer, 380 degrees for 21 minutes. The vents were just warm to the touch, not hot. The RUUVi sensor mounted above the Dometic thermostat on the right upper outer wall of the oven went up just one degree, kicked the A/C on. The cabinet facing, in front just above the oven, was a little warmer than the vents, yet I could still rest the back of my hand on it NP. The kitchen cabinet above was not hot at all due to the heat insulation wrap installed. I'd say this mod passed the test! 😂 We can now have crispy air-fried foods on the road, no setup time dragging a heavy oven out of storage, no extra time cleaning up. This way, we will likely use it daily when camping, like the larger Emeril we have in our home kitchen. Anybody else interested in this oven? Check out the Amazon used price at $80! They also list a "very good" one for $85, that is new but not in original packaging: Amazon.com: Emeril Lagasse Everyday 360 Air Fryer, 360° Quick Cook Technology, XL capacity,12 Pre-Set Cooking Functions including Bake, Rotisserie. Broil, Pizza, Slow Cook, Toaster and Much More, Stainless Steel : Home & Kitchen

@Ronbrink it would be interesting to see if the reboot changes the voltage readings. I still do not believe that such a reboot requires days waiting. When you test after the reboot, connect a quality multimeter at your batteries as a third measurement. I'm guessing the Victron shunt is over-estimating voltage, that the 12.3 may be the better number because the 1400W A/C load (12A) should cause a voltage drop. Less likely, it could be the other way around, the 12.3 being a bad reading. Yes, these numbers SHOULD be the same within 0.01V, given the heavy gauge and short distance of the battery cables to the inverter.

This is informative and I get it about the freezer door. I believe I remember reading a post from @HDRider about replacing a broken door hinge. This is what @SeaDawg was pointing to. If your airflow is limited it could act this way. If you find your Isotherm fridge works well at elevation and cool nights, then the fridge is likely OK. Very good work! When you get home, maybe add a cooling fan like others have mentioned on our forum. My older hull has an OEM external fan and ON/OFF switch (see pic). Never seen a switch label like this in another RV.

No obstructions in the interior vent - I took out the external vent cover and could see clearly into the interior of the trailer. There is a small amount of frost in the interior freezer, but not so much that we cannot get the ice cube trays in and out. The interior fan is just to circulate the air inside the refrigerator compartment - to keep the temp at a common level. Reduces air stratification where the cold air ends up at the bottom and the warmer air at the top. We did the first couple of days in the driveway without it and the temps where less stable. However, in the interest of science wil pull it out over the next day and see what happens Yes to small freezer - two ice cube trays is it. The freezer works great, it's just useless for any food. Given the other posts on the forum about breaking off the tabs, I don't want Rebecca to be even more annoyed with me and the trailer fridge by breaking the tabs while removing the door. Will try this in a safe space between trips. The tri fuel fridge is the thing we miss most about the LE I Hull #1030. Well, that and the ability to park in two parking spaces in a parking lot. Finding a place to park in downtown Durango today was an experience.... ----- Now - for updates from the road. We traveled from northern NM to north of Durango today, with the ambient dropping into the 70s for the last half of the day. The fridge performed better in the lower ambient temps. While traveling through NM the interior of the trailer (also being monitored with a sensor push sensor mounted above the bathroom door) was pretty much in the low 90's. Once into elevation in Colorado it dropped to the low 80's. Could this just be a design capacity issue? If it's venting into an interior that's already 90 degrees, is that causing a lack of cooling? Also - could I be picking up extra heat being transmitted through the exterior shell into the refrigerator compartment? High winds everywhere we have camped this trip have prevented the use of the awning, so no shade on the curb side of the trailer when stopped. Unfortunately, I don't have an extra sensor push sensor to monitor the compartment temp behind the fridge. Would some type of reflective barrier over the inside of the exterior wall help?

Beautiful rig that you're going to love! Congrats!!!

Final Travel Summary -- Day-18, Monday, 01JUL24: 2,424.4 Odometer miles, 12.7MPG (from Tundra computer). But actual consumed gallons from re-fueling receipts was 163.8 gallons or 14.8MPG. Not sure of the reason for the discrepancy. Anyhow: Moab, UT: We linked-up with our friends from NM last Thursday here at Spanish Trails campground for a weekend of sightseeing, hiking, and general frivolity... Our original plan was to tour Arches Nat'l Park on Friday, then hit Dead Horse SP and Canyonlands NP Saturday. But... there weren't any "timed entry reservations" available for us on Friday for Arches so we switched the plan for those two days. NOTE: For those of you planning to visit Arches - the NP Service is requiring visitors to obtain a $2 timed entry reservation online that assigns a 60-minute window for entry in addition to the park entry fee (or Senior/Military Lifetime NP Pass). Our timed reservation was for 9-10AM on Saturday. This keeps the traffic flow through the park manageable in both directions. It actually worked out real well - just we wish we knew about it in advance. So, onward to Deadhorse SP... Magnus wants mom to let him out so he can get out and go exploring - Oscar wanted to stay back at Casablanca: Magnus in his "explorer" mode: Deadhorse entry gate - beautiful weather for sightseeing with our friends: Very cool vistas here at Deadhorse: Twisty Colorado River below: Back at the Campground, the Knuckleheads and their buddy, Heinrich are re-united - do we plan around our puppies? Ah, YES! 2-legged and 4-legged friends loving to camp out together... Getting ready for dad to throw together some evening kibble for everyone: Noth'n wrong with a little "surf and turf": Fast forward to Arches NP: For our style of sightseeing - Arches was the favorite: Notice a puppy head out the window and a tail out the back: Just having a great time: Arches everywhere: Walking up to the Big Window: Under the arch: Just amazing sights here: Back in the Tundra and headed to Red Cliffs Lodge near Moab on the CO River, Knuckleheads sharing the cool AC from their puppy hammock in the back seat: Very cool place where dozens of westerns were produced - with an interesting museum capturing pix of many of the movies made there: Red cliffs above the CO River: We've driven by the "Hole in the Wall" dozens of times over the years on US-191, but on the way home, we took a few minutes and actually walked through the "Tour of the 5,000 sqft House" inside the rock! Got home safe and sound around 5pm - unpacked Casablanca and realized how nice it is to "come home." Cheers, All! A & D

Have you tried one of THESE fridge fans? I've used one of these for years due to the fact that our RV fridges are subject to a bunch of factors that simply are not present with our fridges at home. The fan helps to more evenly distribute the air and, thus, evens out the temps throughout the fridge. Bill

Two years ago I installed the "Gas Stop" devices on both my propane tanks. Given that my Oliver was 7 years old at the time I thought that it would also be prudent to install new "pig tail" propane hoses at the same time. At the end of the camping season last year I suspected that I had a small propane leak but since I was placing the Ollie into storage for the winter I didn't investigate the possible leak any further. However, I did purchase a propane leak detector - exactly like the one that Rivernerd mention in THIS THREAD. While attending the Annual Owner's Rally this year, my suspicion of the leak returned. So, today was the day to get serious about finding it. After getting the propane tanks in place and attaching the pig tails I opened the valve on what I thought was the offending tank. Sure enough, I not only smelled it but I even heard it! Obviously, the main brass fitting at the end of the pig tail was the problem (i.e. the fitting that screws directly into the regulator). So, I took that apart, cleaned it up, wrapped yellow Teflon gas specific tape on it and reinstalled. That solved the main smell and certainly the "hissing" issues, but, I still thought that I could smell a leak. Out comes the "bubble test" (i.e. a little dish soap in water sprayed onto the offending area and look for bubbles). Well, sure enough, there was a small leak in the brass reducer between the end of the pig tail and the main brass fitting that I had just repaired. OK, take it apart again, new tape all around, reinstall and using the "bubble test" I thought I had this issue nailed. Sure enough - no bubbles! Great, but maybe my nose was just getting to used to that wonderful propane smell. Maybe I was just imagining it - surely I had fixed everything that there was to be fixed AND there were no bubbles. Just to be sure I used the "test" feature on the Gas Stop devices. Yep - the needle in the little gauge was slowly dropping. I bubble tested again but had the same test result - no bubbles. Being a bit slow witted it was only at this point that I remember my purchase of the propane leak detector (thanks again Rivernerd). I got it out, read the directions and proceeded to "sniff". My repaired connections didn't set off any alarms. But, the connection from the pig tail to the large knob that screws onto the propane tank gave off a "faint" reading (actually a beeping noise on the detector). Sure enough - even though this was a "factory" installed item and I've never had one of these leak in over 25 years of dealing with propane tanks and pig tails, this was the final source of the leaking. I'm still surprised that the "bubble test" didn't show this leak but the "Smart Sensor" picked it up right away. There are a number of these types of sensors available currently on Amazon - both models that are priced higher and lower than the Smart Sensor (HERE). But, as Rivernerd said, "Not only is it worth the peace of mind, but even if only used once, it is less expensive than a motel stay!". Bill

We're home now but I ran ours overnight just to see. I only put a gallon of water in the bottom, and nothing in the freezer. I placed two RUUVi sensors, one in a basket in the freezer and another on the center shelf in the fridge. They read 12 and 47 F the next morning. Maybe this is common with RV fridges, and most people do not notice. Though my test was not valid without food and running longer. We traveled 3 weeks Apr-May, and it got water bottles pretty cold during the day while we were out and certainly cold when left overnight. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I will measure temps next time out. Given you're still traveling and need a quick fix... Not being familiar with the Isotherm, does it have a small freezer in the top of the fridge like most models? What if you remove the freezer compartment door? And maybe the door shelf in front of it. The cool would sink to the bottom and the warmth from below would rise and perhaps signal the thermostat to keep the compressor running longer. You would lose a freezer but perhaps get a colder fridge. It might be worth a try, and you could always reinstall the parts later.

For anyone interested in purchasing one, Home Depot has the Maxxfan with LED on sale for $73 at the moment. MaxxFan Dome Plus with 12-Volt Fan and LED Light

If you look at my photo above, the wiring looks like automotive grade 14 AWG, though I have not measured it to be certain. 14 AWG wire has ampacity of 15A (16 AWG is 10A). 65W / 12 = 5.4A Given @rideadeuce has installed his and of course he has the Victron app, he could check amps before, then plug in an iPad and check the negative change in amps to verify actual usage numbers vs. theorical. I believe you'd be OK, but if 'twas me, I would upgrade the dinette area to the 65W and run new dedicated wiring to a dedicated fuse, since the fuse box is <2 FT away. Ampacity and voltage drop over cable length. The run to the overhead streetside bed is a long run and who knows if OTT has these outlets shared with anything else on the same run (wiring and fuse). There I would install the lesser wattage model for phones (20W) like the one I linked above, to be safer. We normally charge our laptops at the dinette anyway or via the 110V outlet at the nightstand and we charge our phones over the bed to be handy, so this arrangement works well for our usage.

This is our first time using the forum. I hope this response appears as we are replying to all. We appreciate your responses regarding the seat cushions. We impulsively moved forward with washing the smallest seat cushion to test out washing on delicate with cold water and letting it air dry. I have to say, the shrinkage was not too bad. However, as SeaDawg mentioned, it was rough getting the foam into the narrow opening of the cover. We feared we would damage the zipper, and then getting the cover to look nice and neat and not wonky was a challenge! The batting that raps around the foam is difficult to keep in tact. If we continue with this method of cleaning we will consider the plastic idea to slip the foam and batting into the cover. We are divided in how we should move forward. jd1923, thank you for the link for the sunbrella cushions. You certainly opened our eyes to having covers with a fabric such as sunbrella. As our Oliver ages, we may consider new cushions with a sunbrella type of fabric custom made for us. Since our Oliver is only a couple years old, we will consider the automotive upholstery cleaner, and see how that does. {We do not have offensive stains or anythihng, just want to freshen the cushions up.). Thank you for all your suggestions. You have been very helpful : )

Is it just me or is there something extremely satisfying about that sound of yet another mosquito being fried when hit with the "tennis racquet"?

Another mosquito magnet here. The campground at Watson Lake, Yukon Territory was the worse for mosquitoes. This was my setup. The older, dark green Thermacell I set on the right side of the steps going into the Oliver and never had a mosquito get inside. The Repel spray works great if you have to leave the Thermacell shield of protection to go for a walk or otherwise leave the campsite. The severity of the mosquitoes depends on the weather. When we went to Alaska in 2016 they weren’t that bad except in wet, rainy heavily wooded campgrounds, but it pays to be prepared.

I would be hesitant to machine wash and a dryer may cause them to shrink. I suggest you try an automotive fabric upholstery cleaning product or one of those steam cleaners with an upholstery attachment.

Thanks @rideadeuce I did find your build thread. Earlier I thought it was just about the Epoch install. It appears that yours and many other hulls have the Xantrex 2000 in the rear and mine was installed under the dinette. I only have the Blue Sky solar controller back there. If I can fit it up front it will make the wiring easier and shorter vs. new cable to the rear. Anyway, just a long-term plan for now...

Nice mod for sure! I would keep the rubber cover/caps for sure, as the Oliver has plenty of night lights already 😄. Just me. 😎

I was putting off the work of insulating the opening. I had never done such a task or worked with ceramic insulation before. Turns out this material worked well: Amazon.com: CeraTex 3180 Blanket with Aluminum Foil Facing, 8 LB Density, 1/2" x 24" x 60" (5'), 2300°F High Temperature Insulation for Kiln Stove Furnace Glass Fusing Pizza Oven : Arts, Crafts & Sewing After cutting the main section, top and rear in one piece, I used 3M spray adhesive to get it started and it worked better than I had expected. I finished with a power staple gun with 3/8" staples to secure it. I was afraid that the staple gun would pierce the foil layer of the insulation, so at first I used some electrical tape to help and then realized it was unnecessary (red tape at bottom). Then I cut the two side pieces which had a curved rear, following the curve of the Oliver upper shell. I placed these in position and used a Sharpie to mark the vent holes and cut these out with scissors. Glued and stapled the left side and went without glue on the RH side, since the thermostat cable is behind that one and I may need to service that with an A/C upgrade. Really happy in how it turned out, which is often the case after days of contemplation! I have one trim piece to fabricate which will hide the 2x4s below the oven and then remount the bezel from the original microwave, and she's done! Last step and pics tomorrow.

First step was to center the Emeril Air fryer. It needed to be raised about 3/4" or more, so I set it on two 2x4s with cutouts, hole drilled to hold the legs. This gave me the lift I need and a way to secure the oven. When I got the mount ready, I merely used some wood glue below and was able to then move the oven a little to get it exactly square. The next day after the glue had set, I added a couple wood screws to secure (the 2x4 in the rear was part of the original microwave installation).

There has been at least one owner (edit: more than a few owners) who forgot and left their black tank flush running. The water filled the black tank and then flowed over and filled the grey tank through the venting under the bathroom sink. The water then came back up through the shower drain, filled the shower pan, then flooded the cabin. If this has happened to a trailer I don’t see how you would ever completely eliminate the smell. I would ask the previous owner if this happened to your trailer. Read this thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3447-left-black-tank-clean-out-hose-on/

We have purchased from this company in South Carolina. They make form fitted sheets and mattress covers for Olivers. Excellent products and customer service in our experience. We prefer memory foam mattresses vs coil spring. We originally had Southern mattresses and were not happy with the coil spring style mattresses. Everyone’s comfort level is different. Great deep Zzzzzz’s with our Casper cooling 11” memory foam mattresses. https://www.ablifestyles.net/sheet-sets/?network=x&device=t&keyword=&campaign=19268043787&adgroup=&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADm2yp5IUbqU-hiEYgaI4Qm2qwD_C&gclid=CjwKCAjwm_SzBhAsEiwAXE2Cv6qkS8VRKHfzmMQQGyZGpqbWLO_TooMB62eODTcZUwuAvdAZR5C66xoCxKAQAvD_BwE

High falls at Grand Portage State Park Grand Marais harbor

You may want to plan a night or two in Ely, MN. There are some nice campgrounds around there and you can always visit the Wolf Center and the Bear Center. The Soudan Underground Mine tour will take you about a 1/2 mile down for a unique tour. You may want to stop in Duluth and tour the lake freighter, the William A. Irvin. We usually take our out of town guests there and they love it. Some awesome state parks for hiking are along the way up the shore. Happy to answer any questions you may have since it's our home turf. Lots of other great ideas already given as well.

Found this little roadside park and free campground on iOverlander while driving across Kansas on US36. The sign in the park says overnights are welcome… and free, unless you need electricity, then it is $15/nt using the self-pay box. There is potable water available. While it is next to the highway, overnight was extremely quiet. Awoke to two deer grazing near the trailer and the sound of songbirds. Highly recommend this spot if you are on US36 near Kensington, KS. For a moment I felt transported back in time to the 1930s/40s when roadside camping on US highways was commonly practiced by Families making their was across the Country. US36 takes you past the geographic center-point of the US and not too far from the worlds largest ball of Sisal twine (my cat was pawing at the window to get out and try his best to play with it).

We have used Campendium for years at no cost. Recently, Chris paid for an account for additional benefits. Last thing you need is a pass from some app/website to get into another! Looks like the common scheme to get new accounts by linking prospects to some other service. Like the 100s of reseller websites that sell your going through them to buy insurance!!! Buyer beware and stay away! OMG, this world could do without prostitutes and the marketing profession which is far WORSE! At least with the prostitute, you know what you are buying!

We’ve been up and down the Moki many times over the past 30 years. It’s not nearly as bad as a sharp stick in the eye.

Flathead Lake State Park, West Unit looking east at the Park: http://stateparks.mt.gov/west-shore/ EDIT 04/20/20: I misnamed this park and have corrected the description. The water is crystalline clear. There are no sites at water level, you have to hike down. John Davies Spokane WA

Glacier NP has problems handling all the visitors due to the short season, curtailed federal budget, and limited facilities. There are WAY too many people for the available parking, and Going To The Sun Road is dangerous enough without a bunch of clueless flatlanders in rental cars or too-wide dually pickup trucks with extended mirrors. In July 2019 Glacier had more visitors than Yellowstone. The chart above is interesting, Visitation was low until the 1930s. There was a small train stop, a rough dirt wagon track and tents at Two Medicine for visitors. In 1913 the Great Northern RR started upgrading the facilities at East Glacier, adding a huge hotel next to the station, a better road and small hotel at Two Medicine. They advertised and started bringing in increasingly large numbers of tourists before the effect of the 1930s recession hit, big time. Here is the inside of the great lodge (not my photo); Well into the Great Depression tourism was down and a forest fire broke out at Two Medicine, the employees heroically defended the small building, and then drove back to the train station and reported to headquarters that it was saved ... Who responded back "Why?" Things probably looked bleak to them at that time. The Going To The Sun Road had opened in 1933 and the south entrance became increasingly less popular. ... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Going-to-the-Sun_Road The big dip in the early 1940s is due to WW2; the railroads were carrying materiel and troops rather than tourists, who had no extra cash anyway. Our last visit here was in 1979, on the tail end of a big 5000- mile trip of exploration, which culminated in our moving to Seattle from Nashville TN. When we first went over Going To The Sun Road, the mountains were completely socked in by dense clouds. All we saw was the lower scree slopes. I don't recall any problems with an excessive number of visitors.... Forty years later, we got to see them naked and in their full glory. (The mountains, not the visitors.) ;) John Davies Spokane WA