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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/23/2021 in all areas

  1. Leave the furnace on low and open some of the hatches. Make sure the fresh tank is full, that much water would take a long time to freeze.
    5 points
  2. Your neighborhood is requiring a bed cover for your truck? I’m as progressive as it gets but I know the three types of bad governments: dictatorships, church committees, and HOAs. Regardless, how covered is covered? Do solar panels count?
    5 points
  3. We also went with the Leer painted to match our truck with the Thule bars on top. We added Thule Hullavators to lift our 12’ kayaks easily on top. Inside we carry 2 electric bikes, 12’ Clam, a propane fire pit, chairs, a 22” Blackstone Adventurer grill with stand, a 12’ rug, an aluminum table that folds to fit in a bag, a tool box, small air compressor and 2 stackable crates with cords, lights, helmets, battery chargers, etc. The cover also has lights and it locks with the remote when you lock the truck. We have had no issues at all with leaking. We also have a bed slide that pulls out to easily load and unload items.
    4 points
  4. I am well past the “sleep in a bag” stage of my life. I carry one for a real emergency, but no way will I sleep in one willingly. Too many critters. A RTT at least gets you out of the bugs and snakes, if not out of reach of a griz. John Davies Spokane WA
    4 points
  5. I can't see any problems. The furnace fan won't pull enough amperage to outpace your trucks alternator. It will consume some propane, but that's better than frozen lines. If it were going to be bitterly cold (well below zero) for hours while traveling, I might consider blowing out the lines until I could get somewhere warmer. You do NOT have to be concerned about wind chill. If it is zero degrees (F) outside and you stick your hand out the truck window while going 70 mph, it will feel like -35 degrees. But, the trailer (and all inanimate objects) can get no colder than the ambient temperature.
    4 points
  6. I am commenting from past experience and future desire, there are two really good fiberglass canopy brands, Leer and ARE, I have used a Leer and I felt it was adequate, but no more than that. To avoid long term hassles, you have to spec the canopy so cleaning the back of the truck cab isn’t a nightmare, and so you can get good ventilation. They all leak dust and water, so you need to use weatherproof containers or covers. None of them hold up well on rough washboard roads…… check the warranty to see if that would be considered abuse. Few are rated to carry much on a roof rack, the Leer can be ordered with factory installed rails and a thicker roof structure. In an alternate future I would have a Power Wagon with a Go Fast Camper on it, so I could boondock a couple of nights in the rooftop tent when exploring the back country, while “Mouse” is safely parked at a more developed base camp campground. The last I heard, GFC was backlogged forever, but recently they have been hiring and working extra shifts to meet the demand. https://gofastcampers.com/ John Davies Spokane WA
    4 points
  7. Like Bill, I’m on my third BAKflip MX4 and have been very happy with them. It locks when the truck is locked and keeps things under both dry and secure. Mike
    4 points
  8. Just for grins, it would be fun to park your truck in the HOA with this set up. "But sir, I just opened up the cover. I promise to close it next month. Show me in the bylaws where I can't open my truck bed cover!"
    3 points
  9. Every year, there are reports of Floridians finding a gator in the pool or patio. (They can also dig under fences.) I have often wondered if certain parts of the country just weren't meant for habitation by people. 😊
    3 points
  10. We went with the ARE high top (TW model). Since we've got Decked brand drawers, we needed the extra height in the cap. We also went with the flip up side windows that are a real plus (though costly). Color match to our truck was just about perfect. Build quality is good but not great. Local installer made some mistakes. One big downside is security. We will likely get the windows blacked out to mitigate lookie-lous. Weight is about 200 lbs. No noticeable impact on mileage. Dry as a bone.
    3 points
  11. Each of us have our level of camping that is right for us. Reminds me of the difference between my sister and me. Back in my 20s and 30s going tent camping meant backing packing 5-10 in the boonies and and setting up a 2 man tent and staying 1-2 nights and then moving on to another site. My sisters idea is going tent camping is going to a KAO camp type ground next to a city with a big tent; Bring a microwave, curling iron, TV (television), electric skillet,.... and 2-100ft extension cords to get to the nearest 110 outlet. To each their own. I think I can make it 5 days on solar without a phone.. Heck, I know I can still watch a movie every night and still have electricity to keep Oli warm on a cooler night in the low 30s. Enjoying nature in the lap of luxury.
    3 points
  12. I went from owning three Toyota V8 4Runners to a Tundra. I knew that I had to have secure and dry storage since I was used to a lift gate. I studied tonneaus pretty intensively. I ended up with a BAK Revolver X4 rolling cover. I absolutely love it and it rolls easily, weighs only about 70#, can handle about 400# of evenly distributed weight on top and also locks for security. It's been flawless and looks really nice.
    3 points
  13. We used to carry our bikes in our old hard side travel trailer, but it really only works when you are camping somewhere you feel comfortable leaving the bikes out while you are sleeping. Fine while boondocking in the middle of nowhere, not so fine when at a commercial campground or even some state parks. Especially with bike theft rampant in CO like it is now. Plus, the interior of my old TT wasn't nearly as nice as the Ollie. If a bike fell over or slipped, it didn't really bother me. We have a LOT more $$$ invested in the Ollie, and I'm not going to take the risk that a bike rips a cushion or dents a fiberglass wall. I don't know how I would properly tie 4 bikes down to keep them from flying all over down a washboarded forest service road.
    3 points
  14. We decided to go with a LEER fiberglass cap with Thule top rails and a BedRug. No regrets. Stays dry.
    3 points
  15. I always tell people that the choice of cap vs. tonneau cover really depends on what else you want to use your truck for besides camping. I haul a lot of stuff for home projects, hauling motorcycles in the bed, and moving furniture for friends and relatives, hauling top soil or mulch, etc. So I wanted full standing access to the bed when needed. I went with the WeatherTech folding rigid tonneau cover and a home built bike rack mounted over that as our setup for camping/towing the Ollie. The bike rack is built with quick release attachments so the rack can be easily removed so I can fold up or completely remove the tonneau cover.
    3 points
  16. We use Camco system for jacks and leveling wedges. Cut out rubber welcome mat and placed under wedges because some folks have trouble with these wedges slipping out when driving up on them, but we have not had that issue with rubber mat cutouts placed under wedges:
    3 points
  17. Our first choice was going to be a hard shell for an F-150. Priority for us was the ability to carry 4 bikes in a semi-secure enclosed environment. You know what they say about the best laid plans, right? We placed an order for our F-150 in April 2021, and by early October, Ford still had not given us a production date, so we pivoted quickly to an Expedition Max. It didn't have all the bells and whistles of the hybrid F-150, but still satisfied the requirement of an enclosed home for our bikes. mb
    3 points
  18. Some owners REALLY like to boondock!
    3 points
  19. I've had two of THESE tonneau covers - I don't really need the extra "tall" storage but I do need to carry a motorcycle in the bed. This cover is one of the only ones that can be folded right up to the rear window allowing full use of the bed. While not perfect, they do keep things more than reasonably dry, are easy to fold, are fairly hard to break in to, and keep things out of sight. I'd buy a third when the time comes. Good luck! Bill
    3 points
  20. I posted a little while back that @MarkVgot a nasty little sliver from some rough fiberglass in the compartment under the curbside bed while we were winterizing. I noticed that Oliver had trimmed out the exposed fiberglass in the pantry, so I emailed them and they kindly provided me a link to this Outwater Plastics product: I ordered 2 packages, which wasn't quite enough to cover the 4 underbed openings, but we did manage to protect all of the edges that were the most likely to give us slivers. Easy to cut (PVC cutter worked like a charm). The only thing we noticed was that some of the exposed edges are a little thinner than others, so the fit wasn't as tight as we would have liked in a few places -- we simply used a few pieces of duct tape under the opening, so it isn't visible. I'm pretty happy with the result!
    2 points
  21. No one was offended but this is a good opportunity to remind everyone of the forum guidelines, which I’ve linked to below. Inflammatory content, which includes politics, is taboo. If you want to talk politics, there are quite a few spots on the internet where you can do just that. Also, as an FYI, if anyone ever has any issues with moderation here on the forum, the correct course of action is to send a PM to the moderators. It’s often that posts come across in a way that was unintended, and that’s why the moderator team hides posts rather than delete them. This gives the poster the opportunity to speak with us; and perhaps if needed, make some wording changes that bring the post in line with the guidelines so that it can be unhidden. Forum Guidelines
    2 points
  22. We opted for a high topped (but not the highest topped) A.R.E. shell. I like the extra height; it's easy to crawl into the back; taller items (e.g., bicycle, chairs, patio rug) can be transported vertically. Eventually I'll build slide out drawers that can double as a bed platform. I agree with Jim and Francis: build quality is good but not great. I really like the flip out side windows for side access.
    2 points
  23. We use the Andersen levels and jack stands. We had used the Andersen levelers for 5 years with our 5th wheel. They are easy to use with out having to add blocks.
    2 points
  24. Can gators climb?😳 https://rooftopoverland.com/blogs/news/how-to-choose-a-roof-rack-or-bed-rack-for-overlanding One thing I really like about the GFC setup is that the default opening to the tent is from inside the truck bed, a short climb, though you can add a side or rear door and ladder if you want that option. As long as your bed isn’t stuffed full, you can also climb up by using a stout storage box as a step. I am no longer agile enough to safely climb a spindly 7 foot tall ladder, especially when it is raining😳. Plus, an outside door and rain will definitely get your bedding soaked. This gives you a small “changing area” to shed your wet outer cloathes. I think this “attic” would be a super hangout for a couple of kids….. John Davies Spokane WA
    2 points
  25. If you go the route of a truck topper, I recommend getting the awning side window option. One of my trucks toppers has the option and the other does not. One makes it simple to access items in the middle or front of the bed without either unloading everything or crawling in the bed and over everything.
    2 points
  26. On our wish list is to add an RTT so our children & grandchildren can join us on adventures. Some of them are not comfortable with night critters.
    2 points
  27. We have a Diamondback also. We have the optional toolbox under the forward compartment for all the small stuff. Not difficult for me to reach in and get what I need, but my wife cannot without a stool. Pros: Ease of removal by myself (~ 15 minutes), very secure from theft, does not leak, strong enough to stand on or load gear on top. I carry a dual sport motorcycle on trips occasionally so I take the cover off and store in my garage. Cons: It’s very expensive, but same logic as Oliver vs SOB. I had a black coated one on my previous truck. I liked the way it looked, but it got too hot to touch (~140F) in the hot sun. This one is the shiny aluminum which matches the rear decking on the Oliver, reflects the heat well, costs several $ hundred less. Next mod is to mount a bike & solo canoe rack.
    2 points
  28. With regards to the comments about a "Bed Rug". All my trucks have had spray in beds. But, when wet even these are a bit slippery. So, I added a rubber mat. That helped but with my last truck I added a Bed Rug (LIKE THIS). It is really great and easy to clean. Note: if you get one of these, be sure to also get the "rug" for the tailgate. Bill
    2 points
  29. I like the Andersen’s. They are more expensive but I am mainly a solo traveler and find them easy to use on my own. I bought levelmate pro as part of pre trailer pickup supplies and have yet to install.
    2 points
  30. We have a locking aluminum toolbox below the bedrails at the front of the 8' bed with a TruXedo soft tonneau cover over the top. Gives us some locked storage but full use of the rest of the bed.
    2 points
  31. Exactly. My conundrum: I've decided to give up my beloved Subaru Outback and only drive (license, insure) one vehicle, so this heavy duty truck will be my daily driver as well as my tow vehicle. I plan to be on the road for months at a time with Oliver, so it just makes more sense. It's a crew cab, so a lot of things will fit in the back seat area (maybe even a bike with the front wheel removed). But I dislike the loss of clear visibility out the back. I'm a neat-nik too, yet I manage to carry my touring bike (whole, laid out flat) in the back of the Subaru without touching any interior surfaces -- but @VBistro makes excellent points both in terms of travel bumps and stowing during cooking/sleeping hours. When I was in high-risk (theft-ridden) areas and bike-camping, I learned to stow my bike inside my Marmot Swallow tent with me at night -- a trick I learned from a fellow Adventure Cyclist. But I don't really want to be doing that with Ollie. So, the pros of high-top covers are: increased storage area, height and security. And the cons are: loss of clear visibility in the back, weight and cost.
    2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. @Boudicca908, will the truck also be your daily driver? How much "stuff" do you want to carry? I have no bed cover on my Silverado. Paul has an undercover, easy on, easy off (for two people) rigid cover on the Ram. As a daily driver, I'd dislike a cap, though it looks really good, and gives a lot of storage height. It also weighs more than a rigid cover like the undercover .
    2 points
  34. You guys need to think outside of the box. Take a few lessons from the ATV hauling thread, add a bucket, and now you're leveling the site, not the trailer.
    2 points
  35. I get it as close to level as I can with the Anderson and then fine tune with the leveling jacks. Oh sorry, I meant to say stabilizing jacks 😆.
    2 points
  36. Studying hard and still totally undecided.... I visited a local dealer today (barely made it in the door and they wanted me out because 'closing early' YAY! HOLIDAY!) but I had enough time to touch and open/close the two models on the floor and to see many samples of tonneau covers as well as LOTS of other fun stuff (Decked, BedRug, etc). Then I had a text come through from my fellow birding friend in Minnesota with his current TV and cap (loaded to the gills with lumber sticking out the back) and he talked to me about how he can't see at all with his rear-view mirror because 3 layers of glass and more concerning the layers of dirt on that glass stuck up against the back of the truck cab. This makes me want to reconsider the need for a high-cab and reconsider the tonneau. Especially as a person new to towing and one who was raised to always be checking the rear and side-view mirrors; it's all going to be an adjustment, but maybe I'd be more comfortable with the high visibility. And less $ and weight. Still thinking.... this has been great to see all the different solutions and hear individual experiences.
    1 point
  37. Tough loss to Navy but a great showing against Missouri last night in their bowl game winning it in the last three seconds! Mike
    1 point
  38. We plan four nights with no other facilities. If there’s a vault toilet or other facility we can stretch to a week. It’s a little hard to predict how long you can go because everyone is different with different amounts of inputs leading to different amounts of outputs. Mike
    1 point
  39. If you have a compressor, you can do a quick and dirty winterization by blowing out the water lines. At the very least, that might help save the check valves at the water ports, since those are the most prone to freezing while underway, and wouldn’t be protected by furnace heat anyway. That, and filling the tanks like Steve suggested, are probably the two simplest and most effective things you can do. Another idea is to crank the heat up before setting off, to get as much heat into the trailer as you can, then do the same if you stop for lunch to rewarm everything. I think if you do those things you won’t have any problem except in the most extreme situations.
    1 point
  40. Make sure that you have an appointment well in advance (like right now) for the dates you have in mind. Service is always VERY busy right before and after the annual Owner's Rally. Bill
    1 point
  41. Thanks Steve. We were worried about running furnace while connected to tow vehicle
    1 point
  42. Susan covered it pretty well. I followed the directions I was given by Oliver service for removing the old one and installing the new one. It was reasonably straightforward. I used a magnetized screwdriver for the mounting screws which helped a bit with not dropping the screws. Indeed there were a few settings that needed changing from their defaults in the factory inverter I'd been sent by Xantrex. See this page for settings https://support.olivertraveltrailers.com/portal/en/kb/articles/xantrex-freedom-xc-pro-inverter-settings I have the LifeBlue batteries and Jason included this note when he sent me that link: ". LiFeBlue batteries can be set to 120a charge rate"
    1 point
  43. Carrying bikes is a priority for me as well, though I've considered how I might carry one inside Oliver. I really wanted a single cab truck with an 8 foot bed, but choices aren't an option right now.
    1 point
  44. Your leather cushions look fabulous. I know you will love them. We did not get any cushions on delivery of Hull #050 in early 2014. Our plan was to have some leather ones custom made locally in Tupelo. We chose a beautiful Water Buffalo hide from their selections and had the front panels of the back rests embroidered "The Outlaw Oliver". Here's Dustin cleaning up after a trip to the Mother-Ship back in 2015... Here's Reacher checking his e-mails. He's been sitting on and sleeping on those cushions for 8 years now and they are none the less for wear.
    1 point
  45. The old 2x10 x16” long pressure treated each end cut on a 45dg angle. I never had to go any higher than the 1 1/2 thickness of each block. Although these days you may be able to buy the Anderson levelers for half the price of wood. 😳
    1 point
  46. I know 18 months is a long way off, but count me in as well. Mossey
    1 point
  47. So, here's an update. Tried the furnace today and realized no air coming from the vent below the sink. A quick investigation found that the duct was not connected to the furnace. The knock-out hole on the rear side of the furnace was knocked out, and that's where the hot air was coming out. No one in the factory connected it. Since I picked it up in mid-July, here are the other problems I've had. No caulking around kitchen sink, allowing water to seep underneath and drip to drawers below. Put duct tape around sink for quick fix. Need to put silicone around it. Screen door misaligned, with big gaps allowing bugs to get in. Jason suggested tweaking it to try to close the gaps. Haven't tried yet. Lettering on light switch panel rubbed off. Mike sent out new panel. Lettering on Dometic stove knobs rubbing off. Waiting for new knobs. Xantrex inverter shutting off and not rebooting due to improper programming from the factory. This resulted in a new Technical Service Bulletin (Aug. 3), and after Jason helped me change the settings, the problem hasn't returned. In another post I shared an article about the horrible (really horrible) quality of SOB RVs and the nightmares those owners are having. In that post I promised not to complain about anything related to my Oliver, and I'm trying. I guess my point here is to remind new buyers to do a super thorough check of the trailer before leaving OTT. I spent two and a half hours at OTT before leaving and thought I did a thorough check but I missed some things. For example I turned on the AC because I wanted to make sure it really could run off the lithium system, but I didn't turn on the furnace. I will say that I'm very happy with the trailer and all the components. The composting toilet is easy peasy. The lithium pro package works great. The Norcold fridge is big and cold. The suspension takes rough roads like a champ. The KTT bed is super comfy. The windows seal tight. Yesterday and today I gave it it's first wash and wax, by hand. What a job. My arms are sore! But, with a little elbow grease I got all the bugs off and with the marine wax got the hull shining.
    1 point
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