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The plaques were started sometime in 2019 because there was a problem that arose using the last 4 digits of the VIN as your hull number. Oliver had been assigning hull numbers in that manner since the first trailers were built in 2007. Each year's production just started with the VIN that was one number higher than the last years final VIN. Then in 2019 the state of TN told them they could no longer do it that way and each year's VIN's had to start back over at 0001. Rodney Lomax asked me just how important the "Hull Number" was to the owners. I replied that in 2008 Larry Harmon (Hull #003) and I had discovered the way the trailers were numbered and we started keeping up with who had which number way back then. We owned a 2008 Elite (Hull # 026). I told Rodney that most current owners would feel they were important enough to keep the system going. Thus the numbered plaques. At the annual Oliver Owner's rally in 2019 at Guntersville, AL, the appropriate plaques were given out to each of the owners of older trailers that were in attendance to be mounted in their trailer. Since then, the plaques are installed at the factory upon completion of each unit.

Yes siree bob a rooski! I got that that there BIG ole bulldog coupler. I expect to be attracting buckle bunnies and bulldog bunnies... and all sorts of others as we all stand around and admire that ginormous 2 5/16" monster coupler. I figure if everything else breaks off the back end... I'll still have my coupler and we can just replace the rest. I'll never forget the day I first saw a big honkin locomotive... it had a 2 5/16" coupler. I knew I had to have one too. I fully expect I'll need the wife to call ahead and warn the campgrounds that we are coming in with the big one! (I hope I don't end up regretting having fun with this post! Tell me I can delete in an emergency?)

Thanks, For all your comments. The thread I was referring to was the one John reminded me that I should have added with several pictures of a worn out Anderson 2" ball. My feeling is with the 2023 $8,500 base price increase the 2022 (which we have on order) the price difference was small in the scheme of things. Also, my apologies if I offended anyone. This is my first camper and a learning experience. As I tell my friends I can fly airplanes (I have an Airline Transport Pilot rating) but have never towed a trailer. This is going to be an adventure in and of itself. Dale

Update on Hull 505 - Factory antenna replacement. The "direct replacement" antenna from Magnadyne airrived. I cost about $70.00 including shipping. Be aware the newer models from Magnadyne with a more secure base only are available in Black. The newer models base attachment system is a positive engagement groove and twist lock followed with a set screw. Note's below on the existing base bayonet connection. Antenna Removal, Test and Re-Installation: To take the antenna head off I was told by the Magnadyne Engineer - Mark Jones - to simply twist off the top part of the antenna. . Leave the base behind. The new antenna can re-fit onto the old base. I left the old base in place as it was the least work and I didn't have to break roof seals. *In a follow up from Jason Essary - You need to be on top of the antenna and Push DOWN hard before turning the unit...otherwise the latch fingers get messed up. Disassembly On Roof: 1) Twist the Top of the antenna clockwise until it popped out of the latches. (That worked fine, it took some force but it went as planned.) 2) Pull the antenna head up and the coax and fm cables should follow. (There was a bit of tugging but both the cables came out as desired.) 3) Disconnect both cables. ( Coax is a screw thread, FM is a bayonet so just pull off.) In Trailer: To Test Cable Run 4) To check that there's no short in the actual cables - turn on the amplifier in the attic, if the red light stays lit, it confirms the antenna head was dead. (If it didn't stay lit it would have been a bad cable or just the connector was shorted at the antenna head. In my case the light stayed red so the antenna head was at fault. 5) Turn off the amplifier. On Roof then back inside trailer to test new antenna head: 5) On roof connect the cables to the new antenna head. Just leave it laying on roof for now. 6) Go back inside trailer and turn on Amplifier. The red light stayed lit and indicates the new head is functional. Turn off AMP before going to roof. On Roof: 6) Reassemble antenna head to base by reversing the process....connect cables, feed down into stem and then pop the top back on. (A bit of a jamming process to get cables down the stem but they both fit.) 7) Press hard on antenna head to push down until the shaft clicks in place. As mentioned by Mark...it's unlikely that you'll get the latches on the new head to click in as it's been a known issue for that design...so push down as far as possible then put in screws on 3 sides of the shaft. 😎 Next, insert 3 short #6 stainless screws (5/8") around the stem to secure head to steam. Add a dab of sealant on each of the screw heads. Note - Don't use screws > 3/4" as they could go through the center shaft and penetrate the coax or fm cables. In Trailer: 9) Turn on amplifier in attic, turn on TV and run a channel scan. 10) Checked on the channels found an had a very clear picture. Project Completed. Old Antenna Autopsy: The antenna head had 4 rubber plugs on the underside that I removed to reveal the 4 Philips head screws. Removing these allowed the antenna head to be split in half. I removed additional screws to disassemble the head which included: 1) Configuration - The circuit board includes all inputs and outputs for the antenna and the amplifier for the UHF leads. It has lead wires coming from both the Amplifier in the Attic (Coax Wire) and from the FM Antenna Lead to the Receiver. The board also has connections to both the FM antenna element (red wire) and the UHF Antenna Disk. 2) Function - When you push the button on the amplifier in the attic, 12V is applied across the COAX lead to the circuit board in the antenna head. This turns on the "in antenna" amplifier for the antenna system. If this coax lead is shorted out on the board, then the amplifier in the attic automatically shuts off the 12v supply to protect the amplifier. 3) Malfunction - In my case the Coax connection on the board had degraded and shorted to ground. I also found that the actual connector to the UHF antenna disk had separated and was loose. So either way my Antenna was dead. If the antenna fails again, I'll likely replace it with a different type of antenna ....or simply use a transportable antenna that I plug into the side of the trailer. Craig Short Hull 505 - Galway Girl

If you are looking to 1 or 2 full days in NYC... then Liberty Harbor would be a good location (not a great campground). You can walk to the Path (subway- at the end of Essex St.) and be in lower Manhattan in a short amount of time. You'll come in off the NJ turnpike to 78 .... OR.. Rt 9 to 78. Either way be prepared for traffic and rough roads. Batten down the hatches inside your Oliver and avoid rush hour. Think of it as a tactical mission... get in ... sight see... get out. Steph and Dud's plan of camping upstate upstate at Newburgh but near a train that you can take to NYC is good too. There may be other state parks or independent sites near public trans as well. Take snacks and sight see from the train. Plus when your day is over you'll enjoy relaxing at a real campsite. If you usually travel armed you might consider leaving that particular piece of equipment home. NJ and NY have some of the craziest gun laws in the country. And armed or not, never give the police permission to search either your Oliver or TV. Once you stop for the night the fed firearm transportation act no longer applies to you. Good Luck and hope to see you at the rally. Scotty

If we see you coming, I'll alert the media and we can be cool together. 😉😄

@Dale C, you haven't offended anyone. If you can fly planes, you'll quickly learn to tow an easy tow trailer like our Olivers. Seriously well balanced. The wdh is pretty much just to meet truck towing specs, imo. 2" to 2 5/16 is a matter of personal preference, imo. (Or, cool factor, for some.) That's a decision you'll have to make. Fortunately for me, we have an Elite I, which requires no wdh with either of our half ton trucks, because it weighs less than 5000 pounds. We've never needed, nor wanted, a wdh. I sincerely hope you enjoy your travels and camping as much as we have, for the last 14 years. These 14 years have been awesome, for us.

I’ve towed race trailers, cargo trailers, boat trailers, and equipment haulers. Expensive to cheap trailers I’ve never seen a 2 inch ball on a 7k trailer. Too many cheap 6k and under components for tow vehicles are in circulation along with clueless owners. Having said that I’m going to pick up my trailer with a 2 inch ball, label me a hypocrite.

I have an appointment on 22 March to have a ceramic coating applied to Hull #050 by CGI from Murfreesboro, TN. It will take a couple of days to complete and the will come to Tupelo to do it.

We've stayed at the Newburgh KOA several times and taken the train in from there. Not exactly close. About 15 minutes from the campground to the train station and 45 minutes on the train, if I remember correctly, but it's a nice FHU campground. There's a great little ice cream stand just down the road called Cherry Top.

It’s factory installed in the newer trailers. Just inside the door on left side wall, above the switches as @SeaDawgmounted hers. I regret I don’t have a pic of mine to show.

John, I returned the collapsible 12.5 foot and got the 8.5 foot for the road. I didn't feel like I needed to carry the taller one with me on the road. Charlie.

I have a 12 foot collapsible ladder that I carry in the truck bed when we travel. It’s pretty lightweight. I also use it when I wash and wax after a trip. I also have a really tall one, probably 18’ or so. It’s heavy! I use it to clean out gutters and such at home. Mike

Dave, that is a great post! John Davies Spokane WA

Ditto to this. I don’t need the Andersen hitch with my F-250, so I’m using a simple 2” hitch ball (1-1/4” shank) with a rating of 10,000 lbs., and a ball mount with a rating of 18,000 lbs. The truck is rated to tow 12,600 lbs, with a tongue weight limit of 1,250 lbs. dead weight, 3,334 lbs. payload capacity. So the “weakest link” in the whole system is the 2” Bulldog coupler itself which is only rated to 7,000 lbs. I’ve been considering upgrading to the larger 2-5/16” Bulldog, just to have more safety margin, but so far no issues with ball wear or coupler wear at all. I do grease the ball before each trip. CURT 40056 Stainless Steel Trailer Hitch Ball, 10,000 lbs, 2-Inch Diameter, 1-1/4 x 2-5/8-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08557RHP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NQQ3BH5FK65T43Z8VHQT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Draw-Tite 45322 3" Drop Ball Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JID6U6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_D5XDYD3CHP0KZYCFB0ER?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I know ceramic coating works well for boats once the surface is prepped properly. Has anyone added a coating to their Oliver? I'm thinking about this one. http://www.modesta.co/product-bc-04-nano-titanium-glass-coating.html I have done a few cars through my local installer in this product, and he seems to think it will make a huge difference in keeping it look as delivered. I have had it on one of my cars for 3 years and it literally looks brand new, sitting outside all day, all year long, in Florida sun. Its not cheep, about $3000 for the Oliver II. It's not like money is no object but time is.

Yeah, I’ll be adding a metal plate, riveted to the frame, before the factory labels fade away. Available from Amazon, customized with your specific info, available as stick-on or rivet options. Custom Engraved Aluminum Trailer id Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS5BZSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0QZPRAH118ZV3YJ42R8X

I'm 5'7" but I don't think I could even see the top of the trailer to judge if something was amiss up there, let alone work on it, using a 3-step stool. I know that I can't properly deal with my smoke alarm with a 3-step stool in my home, and the alarm is mounted just above 9' -- so, I'm using that to judge. Maybe it's overkill to assume I'll need a ladder all the time, but I also would love to have a more compact and lightweight ladder here in my tiny abode -- right now my ladder is fiberglass and heavy and takes a lot of space. So it's added incentive for me to buy a compact one.

Just a thought...we might be living on the edge, but we've normally only carried a three-step step stool. It gives us height enough to clean the awning, windows, etc. It's all we used putting eze rv gutter on, as well. It's light, fits on top of a couple cargo bins, and it helps us get stuff out of the truck bed. Even our recently purchased gorilla ladder would take up substantially more room. And weight.

Yep - you are not alone at least back to hull #117. Bill

"Their website has complete dimensions, so if you have your Ollie already (I don't) you can measure if it would fit in the closet." We get ours on November 7. I think you're ahead of us. I am just getting things or researching what I think we will need. Thanks for your comments. John

Through research online, I think this is the one that John Davies purchased. It seems to be available (order for ship to store or ship to home from Home Depot). Their price is about $150. It can configure in a LOT of different ways -- as a step ladder, as an extension ladder. So the 14' reach is when it's extended out as a straight line, not when it's "A frame" shape. But it's fairly compact. Their website has complete dimensions, so if you have your Ollie already (I don't) you can measure if it would fit in the closet. Here's the mfr page -- https://www.wernerco.com/us/products/ladders/multi-ladders/MT-00IAASeries/MT-14IAA

Your hull number will only be 3 or 4 digits long while your VIN number will be a bunch longer - for all Olivers no matter when they were built. The VIN numbers used to end with the last 3 or 4 digits being your hull number, but, that is no longer the case. Hopefully that clears up the confusion?🤔 Bill

1994 to 2001 were the Giuliani years. I've lived in the shadow of NYC most of my life. Those years were the apex. Stay in populated areas in daylight and you'll be fine. I certainly would not be walking at night down a lonely street anywhere in the city these days.

For what its worth - I carry my collapsible ladder in the closet. A bungee around the vent pipe keeps the ladder firmly against the wall between the closet and the bath. Bill

Oliver will send it to you "free". Just let them know. Bill

So ... If your TV is an F150 and you are pulling an LE2. The larger Anderson would be overkill? Would it provide any benefit? I have the 2" now and no issues other than having to get it replaced due to the moisture related screeching. (yes that is a horrible sound - like your trailer frame is being ripped up by an invisible monster) The new 2" ball works just fine, no signs of wear with about 20k on it. $400 difference is not a lot of money (in the scheme of things). So if you were buying a new LE2 and towing with a half ton... would you go to the larger ball absent the cool factor?? Thanks in advance, Scotty

Oliver is very protective of owner information. If a directory is to be created it would have to be a private endeavor. And even then I would not post a link to that info here. Owners are very proud of their Hull #'s. I think it's a great tradition and glad that Oliver came up with the plaque idea. We got ours (#145) at the 2019 rally and mounted it above the switches LH side of the entry.

Do any other manufacturers like Airstream do this? I was quite pleased when mine arrived a while ago. Thanks for the history lesson. I would like to see a company FAQ page with the full story of the early days, with comments like the one above. John Davies Spokane WA

I picked up 2-14-22. I didn't know anything about it until I was called on my way home from Hohenwald. Too far gone already, I had them mail it home to me.

You'll probably be ok. Before we installed the dc danfoss fridge, (60 to 70 ah a day drain), we never worried about power, much, with just two agm 105 ah batteries, in conjunction with 200 watts of solar, and a bit of portable. . (And a Honda 1000, for emergency. ) I'd honestly wait for the need, before I invested a lot of money in alternative sources. Lifepo4 will certainly give you more latitude, when and if you make that decision. We're still struggling with that decision, and probably won't make it til our existing agms die. We are looking ahead, and discussing. But, our needs are simple. We (hopefully) have a year or two to make that decision. Best of luck to you in your decisions.

I love what the previous owners did to create their adventure vehicle but I love more what you have done to bring it back to its original form. I hadn't real;ized that the P.O. had cut the frame...bummer. You get my award for Most Incredible Journey with a Oliver!

I really wanted a way to be able to continue to compensate for draw on the batteries - eg, furnace - during the night. I think when we get switched over to Lithium, we really won't *need* to do that, it just seemed like it should be possible and would be convenient.

I agree,, @mossemi. A lot of youtubers and influencers get free product in exchange for reviews. I watched a video today from fast lane, clearly sponsored by gen y hitch, but they did say so at the beginning. The better ones let us know they're sponsored. Some don't, and others have no sponsors. Somewhere in the comments, Mr Truck said this, though he didn't specify what he considered to be light or heavy trailers: Yes, I'm a nerd, and I read comments.

Do you have any recommendations? Looking at a camping location then going elsewhere to pick up some mass transit into New York City..." last half of July. We did the West & North of NY state last year, working our way up the East Coast this year, so NYC (never been there before) is on the list. We have been looking at Camp Gateway in Brooklyn or Liberty Harbor RV Park in New Jersey. I see Gateway has an airport surrounding it. i guess we will run the A/C to drowned out the noise... B Out,

You might want to send a PM to Forum member - Steve&Betty - I believe that they had a coating applied to their Ollie about a year ago. Bill

In case anyone is still sitting on the fence THIS article might help. Bill

In the seven years I've owned #117 I've never been below 87% FULL with my four flooded lead acid Trojan batteries and stock factory solar. Having said that I should note that I very rarely camp with hookups, travel alone almost 90% of the time and am very frugal with any electrical usage. I even use "Luci" lights at night versus using house batteries. Bill

Titanium fifth wheel owners did that. You could get a number and be put on a registry spreadsheet so other Titanium owners could see who you are based on the number on your rig. Kind of fun. It was organized privately on the users' forum, not by the company.

I remember thinking that the rough streets were going to rattle my trailer apart.

Liberty Harbor is really just a tight fitting parking lot with water and electric, no sewer. There is a dump station. When we were there it was pretty rough. We walked to a subway station and then rode over to Manhattan. I’m glad we visited NYC in late September, 2019 because I don’t think we’ll ever go back. Smelled like urine. People sleeping on the streets and eating out of overflowing trash cans. My one and only trip to NYC. On a positive note we saw a play on Broadway about a green witch, saw Billy Joel at MSG, had a very interesting tour guide, and ate some good food. We did enjoy our trip to North and West New York State though. You can see the Statue of Liberty from Liberty Harbor RV Park.

I really don't know. I thought in the new trailers, it was original equipment. New owners, can you tell us? I can't recall photos of hull plaques.

I mounted ours on the sidewall of the microwave cabinet, inside the door, under the switches. We were really happy to receive ours. The early hulls, like ours, didn't get one originally.

For those who like to live on the ragged edge like me, with a 2 inch ball, try to purchase a ball mount and ball that utilize the 1 1/4 inch shank. That pretty much guarantees the weight rating will be 10k or more.

We purchased a collapsible and found it too lengthy and too heavy. We returned it and got a shorter, lighter one that we can use to reach the Ollie roof. If we need to get up on the roof, we'll use taller ladders at home. Charlie.

@MobileJoy, I bought a similar gorilla ladder at homedepot black friday special for $99. We both like it, as I can actually carry it (our little giant is just too heavy for me to move around safel.), and the 1a rating is ok for us. I like the rungs, and the versatility, but I doubt we'll carry it in the truck because of its size. @Mountainman198, I really like the weight of the Werner you bought. And, that it fits under your cover. I'll be watching for one.

I do not know why they changed hitches, but my best guess is that both hitches were promotional items provided free of charge. I do believe that everyone on YouTube with more than 100 videos, is doing it for promotional or income related purposes. And I don't remember ever seeing a "truth in advertising statement" on YouTube. Mossey

I personally see no reason to upgrade to a 2 5/16 setup, I'm looking for all those "Horror Stories" that seem to be out there somewhere, only 'Horror Stories" are from those who are improperly towing with the wrong setup, that is tow vehicle and trailer are not matches for each other. I find that Oliver owners spend a lot of money on addons just because they have it to spend, not so much because it's needed, it's like keeping up with the "Jones". trainman

As I recall, the 2" Bulldog has a 7000 pound towing limit, which matches the GVWR of the Elite 2, so it's not really necessary to go to a bigger ball. You're still limited to 7000 pounds by the (2) 3500 pound axles anyway. The main advantage of switching to a 2 5/16" ball is if you already use that size ball for another trailer and don't want to buy another tow bar and ball for your vehicle.

One of my hoses split unexpectedly near the sewer outlet when dumping, fortunately it was just grey water, I would not have enjoyed that if there were black solids spilling out into the rear bumper cavity and onto the ground! I bought a spare set of two hoses at Walmart and tossed the bad section. I decided to carry the second one always as a spare. Ten feet will compress to less than two! I wrapped around it in a circular manner, added two full lengthwise wraps to make sure it couldn't pop open, followed by more circular wraps. The wrap is common mover's wrap, it is super expensive at Staples or even Walmart, but this is a great source for less than $6. It is an on-the-shelf item in every store. I use this for all kinds of temporary securing in my garage and while camping. My trailer was delivered with Camco hoses, yours may vary but they should stow the same. John Davies Spokane WA