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First, thank you all for being generous with your time. I found many detailed answers in the forum and the broader community was a major factor in deciding on an Oliver. This will be my first travel trailer. It is perfect for me and my wife and our two miniature dachshunds. Kids started college and we are still a few years out from retirement. But we can see it coming up fast. My wife is a history teacher and I own my own business - so we spend most of our time in California (Ventura County) and summers and holidays in Williamsburg VA. My toolbox consists of a wrench and a roll of duct tape. But I am up for the adventure and look forward to acquiring new skills. I have to say I am very impressed with all of you and look forward to getting to know you. Rich and Christine Mutell

@Geronimo Johnyour comments brings to mind what I've always thought about the unique designs of the Oliver Campers. I know folks tend to have a preconceived mindset regarding camper size and especially galley and bathroom requirements. Those of us that appreciate the design characteristics of the Oliver Campers probably recognize the amount of thought that went into every aspect of their campers. They seem to have focused on maximizing the function while maintaining a minimal envelope to attain those goals. Towing efficiency and ease of towing to the destination also seem to be primary goals, hence the overall size and shape. And of course durability is an overriding requirement in their priorities. I don't know if any other company has tried to marry all these requirements to the level that Oliver has succeeded in their trailers. Every aspect is challenged by the cost control piece of the puzzle, but unlike other companies, Oliver appears to try and control costs secondary to the quality component, and the feature component rides very high in that chain of priorities.

Welcome. If your wrench s an adjustable one you are all set. Standard on one side, metric on the other. A pair of screwdrivers and a hammer should complete your tool box (to start). Advice: the "stuff" you think you might need and start to accumulate, think twice. There are stores everywhere in the USA. After 7 years we are still taking "stuff" out that we have never used and leaving it home. We still have 2 cabinets full of "stuff" we might someday need...

Rich and Christine, welcome to our extended family of Happy Ollie Wanderers! Perhaps we'll meet this summer along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Enjoy the journey . . .

Welcome! We picked up this $40 tool kit from Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/tool-sets/tool-kits/tool-set-with-case-130-piece-63248.html Pretty comprehensive and sits nicely on the floor of the closet. The tools aren't the best quality, but they're certainly in the good-enough category for on-the-road problems. I did add some slip-joint pliers, wire crimpers, a spring hook, and a few other odds and ends to another tiny $7 Harbor Freight tool box that sits on top: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-polypropylene-toolbox-96602.html Good luck with your delivery trip.

@RichM Enjoy your delivery day and ask lots of questions. It will be like trying to take sips of water from a fire hose there will be so much new info coming at you on delivery day. Enjoy it and have fun! If time allows schedule in a few extra days of camping locally near Oliver at David Crocket SP. here - https://campgrounds.rvlife.com/regions/tennessee/lawrenceburg/david-crockett-state-park-2647 This will give you an opportunity for a decent shake down of your Olivers systems. Any issues can be quickly addressed by Oliver Service before heading back home. Trust when I suggest this extra few days of Oliver “shakedown time” is well spent if you can make time for it. Congrats on your delivery day and welcome! Safe Travels! Patriot🇺🇸

Welcome to the Oliver Forum and thanks for introducing yourselves. We are still in a hold pattern waiting on production of hull #1373, due sometime in mid April. It builds excitement for us each time we hear of a new owner taking their Ollie home. There is a great group of folks here to get to know, learn from and share experiences with and the more the merrier. Congratulations!

Hi Dave, I agree the forum search feature leaves a lot to be desired. You can use the Google search feature and limit to the forum with the following search string. truma decalcify site:https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums You enter your search criteria as normal and the site: option allows you to limit the search to only the following site. Hope this helps.

Here’s the instructions from Truma if the unit is stuck in CLEAN mode.

Congratulations, you have purchases a fine trailer. During my purchase process, it was all about the quality of the trailer. Four years later, i can say the group of people in the forum willingness to help was unexpected, amazing, clever and creative. Fellow owners that I have never met have gone well out of their way to help me on several occasions. Once when I was broken down without heat a fellow Oliver owner offered to come to my location to help. Welcome aboard. Your fellow Oliver owners are pretty much nuts about the trailers and add a great deal of value to your ownership and overall experience. I wish you best of luck going forward and to thank all of the forum participants my gratitude and thanks.

R & C - Welcome to the Forum and to the Family. Hopefully you have spent much of your time here in the University and I'm glad to hear that you have already found some interesting things here. Good luck on your delivery - do not hesitate for a moment to ask those questions, take pictures and have anyone repeat showing you a process or function that you do not feel comfortable with. I'm sure that you will find the people at Oliver to be a bit different as compared to those in virtually any other company you have ever dealt with. This really should not be a surprise in that they are now "family". Let us know how it went and we always like pictures. Also, let us know if we can help in any way. Bill

Good point Mountainman! To that I add that an LE2 when being towed pretty much is in the wind shadow of our full sized Tow Vehicles. With Ollie's rounded shape the aerodynamic drag created is minimal compared to just about all "Stick Builts" and wider fiberglass trailers. I have taken many showers in trailers over the years. Not once have I not dried the shower stall for sanitation, mold/mildew prevention or just to make it look nice for my bride. The time it takes to dry our Ollie bath after a shower is less than a minute or two to more than to dry a dry bath shower. Yet as said above, having the square footage for other uses is huge in our well laid out LE2's.

Rich and Christine, Congrats and welcome to the Ollie family! Wishing you the best going forward, so many exciting new adventures to look forward to.

The first thing that I would do is give that jack a good cleaning. After that apply a very light coat of white grease and then keep an eye on it. Bill p.s. mine have never looked like that.

Welcome and congrats on your upcoming trailer. You will accumulate tools as you go along but it would be good to start with the basics. Hope to see you out on the road! Mike

Thanks! As a side note I have no intention of ever bumping up to 40# LP tanks. 30 pounders are plenty for our needs. I was curious to just measure and see if 40# would fit to help answer dewdev’s question. I’ll take a pass on be bending the wing nut up as it really has not posed any concerns for me when removing it. Once it’s loose it just about spins off. Onward! Patriot🇺🇸

Our approaches tackle different topics. Mine saves time and knuckle damage. I do note that your all-thread rod is MUCH shorter than the one that came on my 2018 OE2. With your shorter all-thread this mod may not be necessary. But it still raise the wing nut up away from the tank shrouds a bit. Yours mod would for sure improve security and is also really easy to do. With your fire arms lock, you have spare cable to raise your wing nut up as well as improving security too. I like it!

Dennis, First time we saw an Oliver was during 2010 before the LE2 was available. We absolutely loved the Legacy Elite! We wanted to eventually buy one. When the LE2 became available, it checked all the boxes for us being the maximum sized camper we wanted for the two of us. We prefer to tow with 1/2 ton pickup that’s also used as a daily driver. As far as the wet bath goes, we found wiping it down with an auto shami after showering works great. The majority of our camping is at federal and state parks. Some of the federal campgrounds have smaller campsites, but our LE2’s size works in most of those campsites. Ollie’s is very stable towing, and like previously mentioned the 7’ wide trailer is easy to handle compared to 8’ wide trailers. It’s also efficient towing, on round trips from NC to TN plateau area, we’re seeing +15mpg with a late model TV powered with a turbo V6 gas engine. Our Ollie is equipped perfectly for us and we love the interior and exterior finish. Best way to describe camping in an Ollie is very pleasant!!!! 🙂 Best Regards, Bill and Debbie

Welcome, I will be very interested to hear how your Rivian does with 6000 pounds of Ollie behind it. I am sure you have fully researched the pros and cons, such as having to find a secure place to park and disconnect the trailer when recharging the truck. This article is useful. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a38911919/rivian-r1t-towing-tested/ What does Rivian say about weight distribution hitches? John Davies Spokane WA

Rich and Christine, welcome to the forum, and to your new adventures! Safe travels, Steve

Welcome Rich and Christine. I second Patriot's suggestion to stay in the area for a few days. It's so tempting to get it and high tail it back home. We picked up #1290 in November and tried everything out. We had one issue that I didn't address at the time. I had smelled an odd odor, but I mistakenly thought it was just new furnace smells. It was a small propane leak. It's being fixed now, but it was a two month wait to get it into a local shop here. Lesson here is to be very thorough on pick up, test everything, and if anything is not quite right, address it before leaving Hohenwald. Oliver is paying the local shop to fix it, so it's great knowing that once you leave, they still take care of you. It's a good company. Great choice for your first trailer. There's a lot of junk out there! Happy travels. John

I too have stumbled over the terminology. It is important that owners know where to use Slow Blow/Time Delay or Fast Acting fuses. Fuses are application specific. Motors with high current inrush need the SB/TD type. Most electronics do not. Below is what I found from 9 years ago from Viperwk. It is no longer totally inclusive for all manufacturers today, but gives us a pretty good hint. For our jacks, the Bussman MDL would be a good choice. https://www.google.com/search?q=For+fuses%2C+what+is+time+delay+vs.+slow+blow&oq=For+fuses%2C+what+is+time+delay+vs.+slow+blow&aqs=chrome..69i57.10832j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 New Haven, CT 10y 42,650 4,167 More 312 and 313 are specifically for Littelfuse. In the glass cartridge variety for the 1/4 x 1 1/4" size, "time delay" fuses are New Edison - MDL Old Edison - BDL Bussmann - MDL Old Bussmann - MSL (http://tinyurl.com/mgjbq2c) Gould - GDL Littelfuse - 313 For "fast acting" New Edison - AGC Old Edison - BGC Bussmann - AGC Gould - GGC Littelfuse - 312 So a fuse that has on it 3A BDL is a 3A slow blow fuse made by the old Edison company. viperrwk

I promise to post more in-depth stuff about Hull 1030 LE I 🙂 Seriously, working on modifying the excellent Gas Stop post for the LE I shorter propane surround. Will try to contribute to this tire thread with measurements on our trip to the mother ship in a couple of weeks from the Dallas area.

The gearbox housing spins on the round shaft when you loosen the three Allen socket screws. You should not need to do any grinding, tho a couple of owners have done that. Read through this thread and the linked thread for the rear jacks. Be sure to check all the big bolts for security, they do loosen. Check that all three Allen screws are there! https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4094-how-to-vip-3000-electric-stabilizer-jack-service/ Part of “correct” servicing is removing the old caked grease - that is the wax carrier and most of the actual lubricating oil has gone away… . The stuff on your outside shafts should be flushed out with a good solvent like brake cleaner. Grease plus silica grit equals valve grinding compound…. That destroys the chrome plating. I leave mine bone dry. Have fun. Look through my How To videos if you have not already. John Davies Spokane WA

I will clean the stands and inspect the gears. I've watched that inspection video a couple time before, but never actually checked the gears myself, (BAD BOY). I'll let you all know what I find. They've been like that since I purchased the used 2016 TT, nearly two years ago.

We were up in Nova Scotia... when I inadvertently bumped it into the "Clean mode". Frank C came to the rescue with the above procedure to reset the Truma water heater and it was much appreciated. I would advise everyone with the Truma water heater to print that off and keep it in your manual. It's not in the manual.

Welcome Rich and Christine.....have a ton of fun!!! You made the right choice on your first go round :) John

Even if a 40# tank would fit inside the "doghouse," could you lift it into place, up and over the housing? Even only 80% full (which is the legal max), it weighs 72 lbs. I am not even comfortable lifting 30# propane tanks into that enclosure. That is why we opted for the standard 20# tanks in our Elite II, but carry two spare 20# propane tanks in the bed of our Tundra tow vehicle. On a related note, weight is also the reason we have two 2200 watt dual fuel Champion generators (with a Paralink kit ) rather than one 3500 watt unit. Our Truma Aventa air conditioner requires at least 3000 watts of capacity to run (since Truma will not allow installation of a Micro Air Easy Start in its units). The 2200 watt units weigh less than 40 lbs. each. The 3500 watt beast weighs 96 lbs. I can lift each 2200 watt unit into and out of the bed of our Tundra without significant risk to my back. Not so with a 96-pounder!

I was reading John Davies post for improving the propane tank hoses and it reminded me of a mod I made several years ago. My shorter OEM Propane tanks leaves a lot of excess all-thread to spin up and down at every tank service. I thought about cutting the all-thread shorter, but discarded the idea as the next owner down the road may be a cold weather camper and want the taller tanks. My solution was to grab out of my garage a pair of washers and some tubing that would fit over the all-thread. I cut the tubing to leave about an inch of all-thread showing. One washer on each side of the tubing and I only have to spin off the wing nut about an inch. Saves time and knuckle damage. Cost: $0.00 GJ

Steve Moore, we went in a different direction. Check out a Diamondback bed cover. We carry our trikes tied down to it, but Yakima racks can be installed for bikes. I have a Yakima rack (removable) that we mount for kayaks.

No Dremel! I suspect your curb (passenger) side lid is just stuck on the square drive nut. I encountered the same issue on my new 2022 Hull #1291. I was able to work the top off with plastic pry bars intended for auto trim removal. See photo below. Don't use a steel pry bar, or you risk damage to the mating surfaces. Since you can rotate the lid, you could also try tapping upward on the edges of the lid with a rubber hammer alternately on both sides to get it fully off of the square drive nut. Yes! In your case, since the grease around your gears looks really old and stiff, I recommend you follow John Davies' advice in his linked post above and completely clean out all of the original grease, then fill the lower cup, including the entire area around the gears, with Redline CV2 grease. Good luck!

Our late 2018 LE came with LT rated tires - Cooper Discoverer HT3 235/65R16C M+S, Load Range E, max load single axle 3195 lb at 85psi, 28.03" diameter. When inflated at delivery to 70 psi, we had issues with window shades popping off their clips, cabinet drawers and the bathroom door flying open, and cushions and other loose gear migrating around during travel. We've settled on 60 psi (cold) for "smooth" travel, and 50-55 psi for slower speed rough terrain travel when needed. Sadly, even the interstates are not necessarily smooth in some locations any more, and upon occasion we've had to slow down below the speed limit to accommodate 😞 Not sure yet whether we'll replace with LT or ST tires when the time comes. We do have newer ST tires (2022 Goodyear Endurance) on our dual-axle boat trailer, which seem to be greatly improved over earlier ST offerings.

The front jack has been replaced by the previous owner with a Husky Super Brute 4000 Premium Electric Tongue Jack and needs very little maintenance. There's always a leather-like cover on it, so it looks perfect, even to this day. I'll do it's tiny bit of maintenance when it's warmer out. It won't take long. HSB4000 maintenance from the user manual: Due to the design of the Husky® Super Brute’s low-friction ball screw, the inner assembly of the jack does not require regular lubrication. But to keep your jack in good, functional condition, fully extend the jack and clean the inner jack tube once per year. After cleaning, coat the tube with a light grease or silicone spray lubricant. That's the entire maintenance plan. I like it so far. LOL

That worked great John. Thanks. Sometimes I can't see the forest through the trees.

That does not seem normal at all. If nothing else you could give OTT Service a call in the morning and ask if it’s normal or what the cause could be? Maybe email Jason or Mike a photo, just a thought. Please let us know what you learn and hopefully it’s a minor repair. And thank you for the reminder, I need to get busy and do maintenance on mine. 😊 Patriot🇺🇸

Thanks Chris. Actually found it, as you said, on the front. Our remote quit working so replaced it (ordered a replacement from Amazon), and the inverter works fine now. David

I opted to go a different route and use the wing nut as a lock. I used a drill bit and an old firearms cable lock to at least try and secure the tanks. I could have used a padlock I suppose. This cable lock has molded plastic around the lock and won’t rattle or bang on the tanks under tow. Can it be defeated? Yes as most locks can be. It may slow a thief down. When I switched over to 30# tanks I installed a shorter threaded rod readily available at Lowe’s or HD. Patriot🇺🇸

Like the early 2000s gm quadrasteer? I don't think it ever got a lot of public traction, but a neat idea. A forum member who camped with us way back in the day (2009?) had that feature, and it truly was interesting. I read that at least one of the ev trucks was reviving that idea. It's challenging sometimes in little awkward spots, like the one you described, and others we've been assigned in Canada. But if we hold our breath, use spotters, and are patient, omg, how sweet it is!

We come from a backpacking, canoe camping, car camping and pop-up trailer background, so our 18.5 ft LE feels like a palace 🙂 As others above have said, our intention is to be outdoors, experiencing the nature and scenery around us, so time inside the trailer is usually reserved for sleeping, inclement weather and some but not all of the cooking. The short LE fits well in most commercial campgrounds/state parks and almost all BLM/COE/USFS sites we have enjoyed. The older national park campgrounds can be a problem, as indicated above. This year we had a difficult site in Zion's older South Campground... the campground loop road was quite narrow so there was minimal tow vehicle maneuvering room. The pad for our site was perpendicular to the road, not angled to ease the backing-in process. As the final challenge, there was a tree on one corner of the site's entrance and a big rock on the other! Fortunately... the site directly opposite ours was empty both when we arrived and when we departed, so there was a place to maneuver the front of the truck partway through the alignment process. Our second night was in Zion's Watchman Campground (couldn't get 2 consecutive nights in the same site) which seems to be somewhat newer, and the loop road and sites were slightly wider and nicely angled. Someday maybe we'll have tow vehicles with all-wheel or joystick steering 🙂

I have the 3000w inverter but also have the same problem. The on/off switches on both the remote and the inverter don't seem to do anything. The only way I've turned off the inverter is by tripping the breakers, or turning off/on the Lithiums. It's been like that since I got the trailer. It's not really a problem though, so far. Where I store my trailer, the only shore power is from a 120v outlet, and the trailer doesn't seem to want to run off that. The lights flicker. So I turn on the batteries and all is good with both shore power and batteries on.

Now that works. Short. Easy to Remember = Effective Communication! Thanks!

Isn't the English language wonderful? Specifics, specifics! You need to raise the tire that is connected to the axle where the shackle is in the correct position. By doing this you take the pressure off the shackle that has been "flipped" thus allowing it both room (to unflip) and lack of resistance (pressure) so that it can unflip. All of this occurs on the side of the trailer that has the flipped shackle. In my example it really doesn't matter if you put the 4x4 under the front or the rear tire. Nor does it matter which shackle is flipped. This is because if the front shackle is flipped and you put the 4x4 under the front tire - nothing will happen as you drive forward over the 4x4. But, as you continue to drive over the 4x4 with the rear tire the front shackle will flip back to its "normal" position. This same principal is true for JD's solution using a curb. Hope this helps! Bill

This video recommends jacking under the axle. I would NOT do this without contacting Oliver first. The Dexter axles are not meant to be jack points. Several owners have damaged their axles by using a jack under them. The nose all UP and all DOWN is great info.... Thanks OP.

😂😂Yes👍🏼

I did get the entire replacement window from Oliver. I used DICOR butyl foam core round profile gasket seal tape (link below) between the outer window frame and hull to bed the window, and this caulk to finish it. Available at Lowe’s. Exterior caulk, UV resistant and recommended for multi-surfaces including fiberglass and aluminum. It’s held up very well so far. I used painters masking tape to mask the frame and the hull to get a clean straight bead. I smoothed the bead with a finger while wearing a disposable glove. https://dicorproducts.com/product/seal-tite-butyl-foamcore-roll/

We had an Escape owner stop and look at our Oiver on his way home to Canada. Back then there was a concern about importing to Canada ( since solved). He asked if I would like to see his. After the Oliver it felt claustrophobic to me, but what really got me was the table. It was as shaky as my mother's old wooden ironing board. If the first thing you saw was that quality??

Well, I took on the challenge of replacing the bearings and races in my 2021 Elite I. It was actually not bad at all. Took a couple of hours on the first wheel because I was careful to check and double check each step to make sure things were correct. . Second went much faster. The original set of bearings appeared fine and had “China” imprinted on them but don’t know enough to comment on their quality. I used Timken products all the way around along with Redline CV-2 grease. Repacks will apparently be even quicker since the races aren’t removed and replaced. Anyway, definitely a DIY project if you’re physically able.

I have pulled into CG late (traveling, not 'camping') , and have the Ranger say we are mostly full. Look at the LE2 and say but we got a small site that you will fit into. Enjoy your evening...

Everything oxidizes when left outside and in the sun, so not doing anything will defiantly speed up the oxidation process. On ours I buffed in once a year with a good marine fiberglass compound and our trailer after four years looks just like new, yes it does require getting up on some scuffling (ladder not recommended) with a buffer and buffing it, not a fun job. Like I have said many times, being a retired body shop manger for some 30 plus years there is no miracle product that will stop oxidation, but removing it is possible and that's buff it off. The ceramic coatings my be the best way to go for some, but for myself, it's just a coverup and in time your will still have to have it buffed to get down to the original gel coat finish to get the original luster of the trailer back to where it all started. I realize this process may not be able to be done by many, so I would do what works for you, a nice metal building would also work, plus it does bring value to your property. trainman

Yep, the only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.