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Solved! Switching the out switch off and on solved the problem. Thanks for the input!

jd1923: It sounds like you found the vent in the bathroom under the toilet paper holder, which is good. In my 2018 Oliver Elite II, we had a similiar low amount of air coming out of the vent covers. After talking to Oliver service, we ended up temporarily popping off the vent covers at each vent and removing the plastic diverters behind the cover and then reinstalled the vent cover back on. These plastic diverters were restricting the air flow. You might want to considering removing the plastic diveters, if they are still installed, as their removal greatly improved our air flow. Also, place you hand in front of the bathroom vent to feel if you are getting air coming out of that vent. If you have no air flow at the bathroom vent. (I have seen on this forum where some people have found that the vent piping was not connected to the vent outlet.) If this is the case, you can remove the front bottle plate (4 screws) in front of the bathroom vanity so you can reconnect the vent piping to the vent cover.

Thanks for the kind words. Sorry, I don’t document my projects very well. The MOP's I’ve written have always been from my point of view and I have a difficult time writing them so everybody can follow my thoughts. A little history of how I got to this point. My Xantrex 2000 ProWatt inverter failed in my second year of ownership and I wasn’t confident enough to start buying Victron gear and putting in a Multi Plus instead of another Xantrex. When one of my Trojan 105's failed, I moved to 2 Battle Borns and added a BMV 712. The Smart Shunt was not available and I never have really used the 712 display, it’s always been mounted in the below the seating/sleeping area’s. So I used an old cellular phone and Bluetooth to communicate with the 712. I also have tested the Bluetooth by moving the 712 display high and low and RF always propagate's better with elevation. Moving on, I used a Raspberry Pi micro computer and display running Victron software. That was a $400 experiment that just wetted my appetite for more Victron gear. Because I was already running Victron software, I was aware of Victron's plans to integrate SeeLevel, Mopeka and Ruuvi sensors and decided to upgrade to a Cerbo GX with a 7 inch display. The Ruuvi tags were the easiest add and the Mopeka was pretty simple as well. The SeeLevel required a new display and a modified Comm cable. Some place along this journey I also added a Victron MPPT 150/45 SC and two 90 watt solar panels and a third Battle Born. I'm never satisfied with the mods I do, so things are in a state of flux most of the time. And I failed planning one 0 one. Enough about my limitations! There is a Ruuvi sensor in the fridge, on the kitchen counter, tie wrapped to the SS jack post and the fourth is in the Propane box for outside temp readings. I am adding some locations for information on items you mentioned. Victron's community forum is a great place for answers and don’t forget the Air forums. There are some very smart people there with Victron gear.

About five years ago while driving down A1A on east coast FL barrier island we saw a couple of Olivers in the driveway of a small beachside house. Stopped to say hi. Jim Oliver answered the door. Great visit and spectacular memory we now have of that encounter.

The absence of return air vents in Olivers before 2022 also impedes air circulation, and, therefore, distribution of warm air to the front of the cabin. For your Oliver, I recommend the ductwork upgrade detailed by Minnesota Oli. My Hull #1291 came new with upgraded ductwork. Yet, I have also added more 4" round return air vents to the closet and under the front dinette seat. See this thread: As noted in that thread, our Hull #1291 came with a return air vent (as well as a supply air vent) in the bathroom. In your earlier model, I would add such a 4" return air vent for the bathroom as well. With these return air vents in the bath, closet and under the front dinette seat, the flow of heated air in our 2022 Elite II is much improved. The front of the trailer is no longer cold. Good luck!

Headed to @ScubaRx's location now... 6.3 miles north west of my current location...

There have been a few posts regarding this issue here on the Forum over the years. The easiest attempt to get more heat in the bath involves adjusting the vents - fully open the bath vent and close down/adjust the main cabin vents - in order to better "balance" the heat flow. Next is to make sure that the bath door remains open or find a way (mod) that allows air flow both into and out of the bath area. Next is to modify the duct work - more insulation, improve the kind and length of duct, make sure it is attached properly. Good luck. Bill

Hull 45 has *no* ductwork, it just has a single grill attached to the heater itself. All the early Oliver's I've seen so far have been built this way.

We’re leaving today. Spending some time at Catalina and Lost Dutchman then will swing by Q for a few days before going to Lake Havasu.

We’ve got one too, doesn’t put out much but it is there!

2015 LE2 # 75 has a heat outlet under the toilet paper holder in the bathroom.

When we returned from having lunch in Wikieup (posted above), we just wanted to hike nearby the campground to get down to the creek at a couple of points. The first two pics were taken hiking towards the bridge and then down to the creek. The last one was taken from the bridge on the campground road.

Spice up your galley with my Galley Spice Rack! I'm thrilled when customers seek something new from me. This spice rack, designed for late model Oliver Galleys, features a single row with nine spice jars. It easily fits into standard drawers, allowing up to three racks in a full drawer and one in the smaller drawer under the sink. Secured with Velcro, this rack is crafted from American Red Oak, priced at $39 plus USP shipping. Explore my complete Oliver product catalog here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/17XFL_5ine1WusHVKYguUBRmkj2KnJUN_/view?usp=sharing

It looks like you have Hull #113. There have been many changes through the years to the trailers. Ours has a heat outlet just under the toilet paper holder in the vanity of the bathroom which keeps the bath quite nice and warm. I'm sure many will comment on your post over the next day or two, but my guess is that the problem you are describing is unique to the older units. There have been many threads posted on increasing the heat to various locations in the trailers. Paste this into the search bar (in the upper right corner of this page) for an interesting modification to help increase the heating to the street side under the bed and battery box, It could be extended to include the bathroom with only minimal effort I expect. Paste: "Breaking Subzero" Include the quotes to help limit what is retrieved. the thread was posted by: By Minnesota Oli February 11, 2021 in Ollie Modifications Good luck and please keep us posted on what you do albert

I open our fresh tank drain valve (and faucets to breath), on some back road, every time we're driving home from a trip. New freshwater next time out.

All the cool kids will be at Dome Rock. We are at 33.64345° N, 114.30113° W.

I went back out to the Oliver today, first to disconnect shore power (I trust the solar charger more so for charge maintenance), and to measure the 30A receptacle mount (2 1/2" square, 3 1/2" diagonally). Then I did check the twist lock and IT DOES WORK. Before I was not thinking twist-lock (Duh) and just pushed the plug in and screwed the large plastic retaining nut. Given it connects when needed, and I seldomly use it, for $269 +tax for the SmartPlug kit I will likely take my time with this repair. I may check with Furrion parts, but the ring alone is likely not available. Thanks Bill, good question!

@RonbrinkJust adding some pictures to @jd1923 comments. The first picture is from the Smart Shunt Manual and the second is of my installation via the Victron Remote Management or VRM over WiFi. Mossey

Just wait until you get old!😉 It was a terrible incident and close enough to home that I do remember when it happened. Mossey

I sat through a RV Electricity presentation by Mike Sokol at the 2024 Florida Super Show last Wednesday. He recommended the Smart Plug and gave it a very positive review. Mossey

Hi Everyone, we just bought hull #1147! We spent the past few weeks cleaning and performing some minor maintenance on this LE2. We just went on a weekend camping trip to Larabee park in Bellingham WA and it is such a nice little camper. Our kids have grown up and left home and this new to us camper is going to be our getaway plan for weekends and vacations! Anyhow we are looking forward to getting to know and learning from you all.

Dates for 2024 as posted to the Casita forum on the fiberglassrv.com site: 2024, Feb 5-11: 2024 Quartzsite Gathering The annual Quartzsite Gathering will be February 5th thru 11th, 2024 at Dome Rock! Once again this will be a "No Host" get together and everyone can do as they please, visit with friends, make new friends, ask questions, see mods, sit around a campfire, tell jokes, sing whatever you want to do! The town of Quartzsite is only 3 miles away and has pretty much all you need, gas, food, places to eat, dump facility, trash dump station, and lots of RV vendors. Come when you want and leave when you want, find a spot you like and set up camp. This is a total dry camping get together so come test out your boon docking skills! Best of all it is on BLM land and totally FREE and the most gorgeous sunrises and sunsets you will see anywhere! The 2023 Gathering was a great success after the pandemic with about 125 trailers attending so 2024 should be even better. See you all there! Location-- GPS: 33.643617,-114.304752 Last year was my first year and I met and camped with several other great Oliver Owners as well as many Casita, Scamp, Escape and Bigfoot owners, I am hoping to attend again. Anyone else planning to be there this year?

I'm posting this in case anyone else encounters this problem: We were traveling back east from Hohenwald in a driving rain storm through GA and upon setting up at the campsite could not get the Truma furnace to heat; the error E 5 H was displayed on the digital display panel. The Truma documentation that I have did not list this particular error code. The furnace had been operating flawlessly prior to the rain storm so I suspected that the problem had to do with moisture preventing the furnace from igniting. I took a hair dryer and blew warm air up into the Truma exhaust vent to dry out any accumulated moisture and that fixed the problem. If anyone has a detailed description of the E 5 H error please post it here as I could not find a description online or in my documentation.

We have similar issues with our late 2018 Elite I, with two differences from most of the Elite II configurations being discussed on the forum: There is very little clearance between the 2 hulls of the Elite I to route flex or solid ducting The furnace is under the forward side dinette seat, with one outlet blowing directly into the aisle (towards the refrigerator & entrance door) and the second outlet going through the adjacent wall into the bathroom low and to the left of the toilet. The return vent to the furnace is on the face of the forward dinette seat facing the space under the dinette table. I have read most of the referenced threads and have a tentative game plan that I will begin to implement over the winter: Install remote temp sensors in both rear corners near the water pump and the outside shower plumbing, and also low in the vanity area under the bathroom sink. My current temp monitoring system only has 3 remotes, but I might try to find & place a 4th of some kind under the sink near the kitchen plumbing. Add some vents with 12v fans on each side of the aisle under the rear dinette/bed, pushing some heated cabin air into these two plumbing spaces Add a return air vent (shielded against spray intrusion) from the bathroom into the space under the sink (which, with the bathroom door closed, should funnel some heated air from the bathroom into the space under the sink) Maybe add a return air vent from the space under the bathroom sink into the adjacent closet Add 2 vents to the closet, one high and one low as referenced elsewhere. Consider partially opening one of the kitchen drawers to allow some return air flow out from the space under the sink. We do have a small electric space heater, which helps save propane when we have shore power available, but the airflow is a little different from when the propane furnace is running. We are from upstate NY and don't usually camp in the winter any more (we used to do so in a tent), but we do encounter sub-freezing temps in the western states in the spring and fall "shoulder" seasons; especially at altitude. It seems like a little fine tuning of the airflow (which is almost non-existent now) should make a difference 🙂

That's what's we do. The first vent under the curb bed is closed.

This is our emergency water!

I agree with “dewdev” on the grill dampers. I removed the damper from behind the grill at the kitchen and the one from behind the grill in the bath. I typically have the one under the bed mostly closed allowing the heat to flow mostly towards the front of the camper so that the furnace return will draw the warm air back towards the rear. Seems that the rear stays pretty warm compared to the front so hopefully this helps balance out the heat distribution some. Remember that the outer hull is insulated so even if the basement is heated, the floor will be warm.

I googled "campgrounds near Fort Collins" and a few campgrounds were listed in the area, including a KOA.

Welcome Scott and Connie! Wen and I are AF retirees as well and have been fulltiming 4 years now (2 in a Casita). Our Ollie (twin beds) seems like a mansion with the extra 6 feet inside vs the Casita. We picked ours up 2 years and 1week ago and have not looked back. This Oliver community is quite amazing and we are very thankful to be part of it. We'll be at the "Q" in a couple of days to reunite with good friends. I know you will be pleased with your new Oliver. No trailer, as you well know, comes problem free but I can tell you that this Oliver community is quite amazing and experienced with handling just about anything. Congrats on your retirement :) Wen and John

Our 2022 E2 doesn't put out much noticeable heat in the bathroom. I had to go under the sink for something else and found no kinks. I think the lack of airflow (heat) is related to the long distance from furnace to bathroom vent. We have the same thing in a bedroom and bathroom furthest from the furnace at home.

That would be a "sucker" bet in that hull #117 also has the vent in the bath and heat does come out of it. Bill

@Steph and Dud B Necessity the mother of invention! 👍🏻 Patriot🇺🇸

I can’t speak for the older Hull numbers. But I can say our Oliver warms up quickly and keeps us plenty toasty during cold weather. Over the years Oliver has listened to owners and has continued to make changes and many improvements since the early models. We have a vent in the wet bath. As for the closets they are not heated and never really found this to be an issue. You may want to consider a supplemental small plug in heater. Running duct work to the front bath may come with many challenges. Patriot🇺🇸

Welcome Scott and Conni, From a USAF Gulf War Vet, a big thank you for your service in the best and most lethal Air Force in the world. 🇺🇸 I really enjoyed my time served in USAF. Your delivery day will be here before you know it. Congrats on your new Oliver! Patriot🇺🇸

I agree with Bill, given you checked most everything else. @Mike and Carol you have a new tire now, so all is good for many miles, long after you return home. Whatever you do, please do not take the bad advice given to raise your tire pressure! Always maintain tire pressure based on trailer and TV axle weights and tire manufacturer load tables. This is a matter of physics vs. opinion.

Thanks guys. I didn't get over there today, so it will probably be Tuesday. This is the Truma AquaGo water heater, not the furnace, so error E * W, not E * H. I think it was 5, which is the error I quoted above from the manual, but not positive.

Here's an Oliver post re the E5H error and his solution

When I bicycled across the USA it was always nice to get to the western edge of a time zone as the sun went down later there. It makes a later sunrise, but a later sunset was a nice tradeoff. John

The boys and I had our 2nd "Oliver Sighting" today on DAY-11 of this trip... It was Hull #148 from FL, the TV was not present so it's unknown who the owner is. Spotted this very nice looking rig in the Dome Rock Camping Area just west of Quartzsite.

Someone just posted with this on Facebook. I believe they turned it off inside and then outsides, waited a couple of minutes. Turned it on outside, for the green light, and turned it on inside. I will look for the post.

I got bored - had to do something...

JD1923. This project is still on my "to-do-list". I still admire the product on my neighbor's Airstream and plan to upgrade my Oliver. Good luck with your project and keep us updated on how things go. Thanks.

I have highlighted two words above for clarification. Both of the above statements could be misconstrued by a new owner. YES you can operate an electrical circuit "just" below the circuit breaker rating, and do so for some period of time. But a soon as we use the word continuous, we evoke the NEC requirement that the circuit be de-rated. There are several interpretations out there, but most would agree with the NEC that a 20 amp circuit shall not be continuously loaded to 15 or 16 amps MAX. Likewise for the 30 amp single phase 120V circuit you must not continuously load it to over about 24 or so amps. Yes there is some wiggle room in the interpretations, but all of them are well below the full circuit breaker rating for continuous use. Doing so over time can will to bad words or worse. Please keep this in mind when loading your circuits to their their breaker rating. GJ

I had the same issue with the remote not working about 2 years ago. I removed the control board and thoroughly cleaned it (I believe with isopropyl alcohol and or vinegar as a mild acid). Reinstalled and it resumed working. Wish I had coated the board at that time. Issue has just reappeared after I entered the traIler and the fan was spontaneously running at max speed and the operator was in a dozen pieces. Original operator appeared to be cheap pot metal and replacement from etrailer doesn’t appear to be a whole lot better. Fan still works using the button board. Am thinking about pulling the control board again and cleaning and coating. May also install a voltage regulator. By the way, our fan fuse is in the sub-panel in the attic (7.5 amp). Hull number is 372 (2018).

While I think that it is unlikely - Another possible reason for that tire going bad when the other three (bought at the same time) look fine - that tire was defective in the first place. Again, I believe that this possibility is well down the list of possible issues and that the guys at discount tire might have mentioned it if it was apparently a defective tire - but, it is at least something to think about and add to the list. Bill p.s. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they have temp monitors fairly cheap. I've had one of theirs for several years now and it hasn't missed a beat. Like this one for $24.99.

A couple of years ago there was a modification detailed where someone added a 3-4 inch diameter heater duct, routing it from the furnace, under the basement flooring to the street side and was able to dump some heat under the street side bed and dinette area (including a duct to the battery box) that solved the problem of the water connections on the outside freezing as well as adding some heat to the lithium battery compartment. Maybe one of the moderators can dig up that thread for us. On the subject of digging up stuff on the forum, can someone show us (again) how to search the forum for stuff. I remember one time someone pointed out how to use the google search to find stuff that the forum's search window doesn't find. Thanks in advance!

This sounds great! If only I can leave in time to get there — might be too early for me to leave home, though.

👍

We hope to be there...if we can leave on time from SC :) John

I’ll be Bach.