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I’m unfamiliar with the terms “overkill” and “tow vehicle” when used in the same sentence. How can one have too much capability? Personally, I need over 3000 pounds of cargo capacity. Could I travel with less? Probably, but I absolutely wouldn’t be able to fix your trailer with a set of broken springs on the side of the road.

Abracadrabra! Kazaaaam! Go out and recheck, maybe it is fixed now. John Davies Spokane WA

I DO use the Andersen WDH with the Tundra and keep it on the few times I use the Ram as then I do not have to remove the chains. All but 1.5k mi have been run with the Tundra. I see often that people appear to tighten the tensioners on their WDH so much that that they have problems crushing the poly bumpers when on the level then splay the chain connectors when hitting dips in the road surface. I run my tension as Oliver had set up for me on pickup day and have found neither issue with excessive ball wear or with connecting the whale tail when re-hitching. I could see where these both would present as problems were I running high levels of tension on the chain tensioners.

My wife and I completed the Great Loop in 2017 aboard our 36' Kadey-Krogen Manatee. The 90 hp diesel pushed us along our 5,300 mile route at an average speed of around 7 mph. Following the seasons in a counter-clockwise direction it took us a year to complete the adventure.

Thank you for pointing out to everyone that either I can’t read or I am blind.🙈 I totally overlooked the Tundra in your signature. Please except my apologies and thank you for your insightful comments on your Andersen setup. Mossey

3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, Quart, 08984 If you have a local Automotive Paint supply store, buy it there, I pay about $14 per quart locally. It is voodoo magic for stuff like this, and for road tar on the gelcoat or your TV. Wear gloves and have some ventilation,, it has all sorts of unpleasant solvents. It won’t hurt gelcoat or paint but it does completely strip off the wax. Body shops use it a lot for prepping the paint. John Davies Spokane WA

The Andersen greaseless ball has served me well with no noticeable or excessive wear with the bulldog hitch and no greasy mess to clean up and zero squeaks. I shed no tears when we sold our Andersen WDH after purchasing a TV that does not require a WDH.

This is discouraging, I will be picking up our Elite-2 in August and am just now discovering that my 1.25 bike rack will not be an option. Why wasn't that explained to me when I was putting my build-sheet together? My Swagman XC2 bike rack is not RV approved, I didn't even know that was a concern. The only approved racks are 2" shafts and the Elite-2 has a 1.25 receiver. Ugh! If I can't use the 1.25 receiver what good is it!

@Margaret, if you changed out batteries today, your thermostat may have reverted to factory settings. Maybe, maybe not. If that's it, maybe your camper friend could take another look. What do you mean by "wonky?" If you are cooler now, and it's night, it might be a good time to check the return filter as @Townesw suggested. Many rv ac problems can occur when the unit is "starved" of return air. Dirt starves the air supply. Are you near a good rv repair facility? Or, can the campground manager recommend a mobile tech? Ac problems rear their ugly heads when temps are high, as they are almost everywhere in the US today. A few things that can help keep it cooler: Are you parked in shade, or sun? Obviously, shade is better. If it's not windy, can you deploy the awning to shade the windows? Keep the shades down. Don't cook inside the trailer, if at all possible, especially in the heat of the day. Minimize door openings. Is your campground crowded? Could also be too many people on a weak circuit trying to run ac in extreme heat, causing the ems to cut in and out. 82 if it's 107 outside is not an unexpected difference, especially with a unit that may need cleaning. But, 82 at 90 isn't right, even though it takes awhile to cool the hull and cupboards, it should be better than that. Best of luck, and please keep us posted.

Another member posted these showing current LE2 prices. If somebody has better quality ones, please PM me and I will replace them. Click Open in new tab (or window) to see full sized versions.) Out of curiosity I specced out a fully loaded model. 2023 Oliver Legacy Elite 2 Build Sheet - MAXXED OUT (most expensive options chosen) Twin bed w/ couch $73,800 TB w/ 2 upgraded foam cushions $1750 TB w/ 2 upgraded mattresses Ultrafabric $450 Hypervent $200 Omni-directioinal and portable satellite antenna $1400 Powered streets side awning $2300 Convection microwave $500 Composting toilet $1350 Truma AquaGo WH, Truma Aventra AC and Electric antifreeze kit $3850 Lithium Platinum Package 640 AH $15,900 Electronics Pro Package $2100 Outdoor Pro Package $2350 2 5/16” Andersen hitch with 2 5/16” Bulldog coupler $1200 Ligun table $500 Shower track $275 TOTAL $107,925 Here is mine: DAVIES Oliver Legacy Elite II “Mouse” Hull 218 FACTORY OPTIONS, delivered 04/26/2017: Note - Oliver was doing custom options at this time, some were done on the production line, some were done by Service at Delivery. EDIT 08/10/22 The base price is wrong in my description, it should be $48,500. Here is the actual build sheet for 2017 for my trailer: It is really hard to compare model years because so much of the optional stuff is now included in the base trailer. But the cost of a brand new one is maybe one reason the used trailers are selling at or near their original purchase prices 😉 For anyone buying used, try to find the original build sheet or ask Oliver Sales to send you one, it will give you a much better idea of how that pre-loved Ollie is equipped. The huge cost increases associated with the pandemic obviously are at work here. My $800 Natures Head option is now $1350. I am sure similar increases affect the cost of gelcoat and resin, structural aluminum, copper wires, wheels and axles, and of course the appliances. John Davies Spokane WA

Or at least has an option for me to buy without preinstalled 1.25 receiver, just the 2x5" beam so I can install 2" receiver by myself later.

It would be my guess the you are not using the Andersen WDH with your 1 ton Ram. And I believe JD thinks the function of the Andersen WDH is the source of the excessive ball wear. Mossey

@Landrover mentioned that mod in his for sale posting. Follow the link below: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7121-2019-legacy-elite-ii-for-sale-in-ocala-florida/#comment-77148 Mossey

I purchased this light from Menards for my entryway and the pantry: https://bit.ly/3IPGKQU This is the light for the fridge. I have the Dometic 3-way and the magnetic strip fits perfect on the front of the drip tray. https://amzn.to/3ogBnRf

@Alberta and Randy You have an earlier hull number. It looks like your pipe extends out further. I have hull 313 and the pipe does not extend that far out which allows me to leave the hose connected when the bumper is closed. At some point in production they must have shortened the length of the pipe inside the rear bumper area.

I did replace my factory sewer hoses with the Camco orange and black ones, they accordion out and will stay where you pull them out to, the factory Camco ones stay flexible all the time and much harder to work with. I do carry two 10' hoses with me all the time and a selection of hose ends for different hookup. Also the sewer hose ladder to provide down hill flow of the waste, plus everything you carry back there get dirty from dust, etc. and I wash it out everytime I use the trailer when I get home. All being said, I wouldn't use the area for much more then sewer stuff. trainman

Thanks John Perfect timing on your post. It makes a good point for anyone interested in buying my 2019 hull 484. Lol😛 much appreciated.

2018 Tundra SR longbed 4X4 with 1430 lb payload. Have towed all over the SouthWest, Midwest and thru TN and KY with no issues. Tow with the Andersen hitch. 12 mpg and plenty of power and braking. Added Firestone airbags and inflate to 25 lbs which eliminates any jouncing. Also tow with a 1 ton Dodge diesel single rear wheel 4X4. Mpg towing with the diesel is 16 mpg and obviously much more cargo capacity. Between the two, honestly I prefer the Tundra. Nicer ride and my 1 ton is huge overkill IMO for the Elite II the way I drive (65-67 mph). I have spoken to owners of the new Tundra who tow a 25' Airstream and they said it tows great. If you can find one, I don't think you can go wrong. I am a displacement guy so the 5.7 V* is high on my list but from what I have heard, the new turbo V6 Tundra does the job too.

Yup. Fiberglass products have doubled, nationally. Everything else, not so good, either. Glad I bought mine 15 seasons ago. It is what is is. Since fiberglass is petroleum based....it won't get cheaper, soon.

At the rally last month, I noted the demo trailer had the weather stripping applied about 4 or 5 inches below the brackets vice right up against them. It looked really nice and you can see where the collected water and debris issue is mitigated. I got the product information from them and will be ordering the same weather stripping to replace on both awnings on my 2018. Always hated the stained, brown water running down the corners. I didn't see any other trailers modified the way but I liked what I saw.

I put a extension on our pipe, can't remember if it was 12 or 15 inches, picked it up at Camping World. Without that extension it's a real pain to hook up, and if you don't get it on quite right, NOT GOOD. Probably best to just keep it hooked up. Stan

The secret to sewer hose is to buy the Best that you can find. Nothing spoils a trip worse than remembering a ruptured hose or an unplanned disconnect. We leave our longer hose hooked up all the time. (We also have 2 shorter hoses and extra fittings we carry, because it seems CG usually put their sewer connections just beyond where I plan on them being). By leaving the hose hooked up there is also less chance of having a tab lock come loose. We do check it occasionally to make sure that the tabs are full seated. We also are thinking about converting to cam lock fittings as they are more secure and easier to use. We will still carry some tab fittings to fit various adapters and our blue tank, as well as that short section of clear pipe. The clear section may not be pretty in use, but lets you know when the black tank is clean when flushing.

I can’t answer with a specific number since our trailer is over in the storage. But, the way I do it is to keep the sewer hose connected all the time while we’re on the road. With the recess it allows storing the hose in the bumper without disconnecting. If you brought the pipe out further you’d have to disconnect in order to close the bumper. It makes it easy when we have a FHU site to just drop the bumper and connect to the campsite sewer. Mike

Back in my Air Force days, the first step to any repair was to hit the defective apparatus with our hard hat. 😉

Thank you SeaDawg! Got your message and replied in inbox. I have electrolyte salts somewhere. I do well with salt bc of low BP. Thanks for the concern!🌹

SeaDawg I’m glad they are going back to Hohenwald. Hopefully they will have the parts or a replacement unit. I know parts are hard to get but was hoping if they hadn’t contacted Oliver that they would.

It can be a 2-5/16” ball only if your Bulldog hitch has been upgraded from 2”.

We use the Thule bike rack, Really like it. Has a removable adapter 2” to 1-1/4” fits close to the hitch to help eliminate the cantilevered force on the hitch witch is only rated for 150# weight and a 24” length. We load the bikes on the two closest mounts to stay as close to the 24” as possible. Its would be nice if Oliver redesigned the rear bumper and storage area to add a extra 7” to allow for the bike rack and bumper to line up to keep the lines looking good and help protect the top of the spare tire cover with the bumper. Safe travels from Hull 901 in MD.

My Rad expand 5’s folds but I also have a cover on the bed to haul other camping supplies so not a lot of room for the bike whether it’s folded or upright! Getting a 2” receiver installed I think is the way I need to go…..thanks, we will see……

There is this Yakima Stage Two 1.25" that is approved for RV, not sure it's approved for travel trailers. I am not using this one myself. I'm probably going to swap out the 1.25" hitch to 2" because my TV has 2" receiver and it would be cheaper if I can use the bike rack on both TV and the Oliver. RV Tested and Approved to 60 lbs. per bike Off-Road rated to 36lbs per bike

Rad Mimi's, good choice, we carry ours here, trainman

Thanks for all the input, I get the picture lol FYI, I’m attaching pics of the rack I purchased, it’s the MARVOWARE bike rack from Amazon…..Great rack, very solid etc, just needs a 2” receiver……I have it attached with a 1.25” to 2” receiver adapter and it sticks out too far plus, I would never haul the bikes with this set up!!!……the pics are for Information only and the adapter will NOT be used. The reason for my post, I needed to see what others have done! Lol I hear the term punch out the existing 1.25” Oliver receiver and turn it into a 2” receiver!!! How and/or who has done this and how do you punch out the 1.25” to make it into a 2” receiver!? I should have read about this before purchasing the MARVOWARE rack and went with a USA 1up….too late! Lol 🤷🏼‍♂️Thanks for any additional info on the punch out of the 1.25” Oliver existing receiver?

That's not really the point. The concern isn't that the receiver will fail. The issue is that there are no 1.25" bike racks certified by their mfg for mounting on the back of a towed RV. The actual concern is that a 1.25" rack itself would fail from the bouncing around it gets on the back of the trailer. (And Oliver would wash their hands of that since they didn't supply the bike rack.)

This has been discussed a lot on here and this info may help you with your decision. I inquired with Oliver Service prior to this modification. I was told by the person I spoke at Oliver that Oliver has not had any reports of the bike racks failing with this configuration failing as long as you are under the 150# weight limit which we are. I had two independent aluminum engineers look at this mod and both agreed it was safe as long as you do not exceed the weight limit. Olivers concern is an owner overloading the receiver hence the smaller stock receiver. Just know that Oliver does not endorse the 2” receiver modification on their bike racks. That said, there are quite a few owners that have their bicycle racks configured this way with thousands of miles on their Oliver with bikes attached. We have not had any issues to date. See attached thread -

We picked up our Ollie 2 Hull #1139 (We thought we were getting Hull#1132 lol) on June 9, 2022, 1 pm appointment time. After our orientation and education walk around and through by Ryan (very knowledgeable) and our last Financial Paid in full payment to Shelli (A Sweetheart)......We spent the night loading what Camping supplies we brought with us and operating everything we could to make sure everything was working before departing the next day. We met at least three other Oliver owners during this time and found that Nice people do own Oliver's. Some even shared helpful advise of the things they had experience about their unit. Awesome folks! We found a couple of items that needed attention. A little caulk needed below and above the bathroom entrance door (btw these these two seams really need a cover piece to make them more attractive). The front door needed adjustment and the Air Flow fan in the center of the Ollie would not operate properly and had to have a new board installed the next day (June 10). After leaving the factory, we drove to Cullman, Alabama about 140 South of Hohenwald, Tn and spent 11 day's at the Palomino RV Resort ($54 a night) A very nice place to stay! There we utilized the Camper while visiting relatives in the area. We had two other issues pop up with the unit. The battery straps buckle that are in the battery compartment (AGM batteries) had broken. Jason in Service sent out new ones to my home and they have been replaced. The touch led lights over the sink & cooktop both went on the blink. Jason in Service authorized new lights be sent to my home. They are Riveted in and I replaced them with the help of an experienced friend who had done some Riveting in the past. (Note: a small instruction should be wrote up on exactly what to expect if you need to replace these lights in the future). Example: The original connection on the wiring, once the lights are removed, will not pull out of the hole to replace them! You have to splice the new wires to the old wires, so now you have two connection splices. The room to reinsert the wires is very small but we got them back in by removing some of the foam. The new lights are now functioning as intended! The Ollie will be parked in the RV garage (affectionally nicked named Ollie Avenue, for the time being). We are searching for a name to give the Ollie but no hurry. We are in the process of awaiting a mattress topper from MATTRESS INSIDER and 4 sets of fitted sheets. My new Dodge Ram Limited 1500 5.7 liter truck is due for some warranty electrical work and once that is completed and the sheets arrive, we will be off and running to enjoy our new Camper. Hope you enjoy the pictures!?

Hi Steve and Cindy, A couple of things I've noticed on our Norcold, when it starts struggling I check to see if there is any ice build on the fins below the freezer. If so, you'll need to defrost. Another thing that helps us is to remove the top outside vent grill to help exhaust the heat. Our fan runs a lot of the time but when you get in the mid to upper 90's it can get overwhelmed with the heat build up on the top of the fridge, so removing the grill for a while helps us out. We have the same problem when it gets to 100...the fridge will be in the very low 40's range. Good luck John

The 2010 Sequoia with the tow package & 5.7 engine had the 4.3:1 final drive ratio….it truly is a SUV version of a Tundra, at least for the era that I own.

LRN, We pull our LE2 with a '21 F150 Hybrid and are happy with the rig. We returned yesterday evening from a 6 week tour from here in Tx out to the West coast. 6000+ miles, averaged 13.0 MPG overall, start to finish, including towing miles plus the unhooked sight seeing. We get 25-26 around town, 24-25 at highway speeds and 11.5-12 pulling the Ollie. While we loved the ride and handling of the F150 we did spend 3 unscheduled days in Newport Oregon at the excellent Ford dealer there diagnosing a misfiring problem which turned out to be a spark plug/coil failure. Who'da thunk a spark plug and a coil have to be overnighted to a Ford dealer. It's interesting times we live in. BTW, Newport was an excellent tourist town to be stuck in. Also we had 3 instances of what I decided was erroneous error messages where we would see "Hot engine coolant" but after checking the fluids, smell checking under the hood etc we would restart and not get the message for a long time as in 1000+ miles. None of these events happened during our 108F crossing of the Mojave Desert but temps in the 60's. Now that we are back home I'll take it back to my local dealer and get them to check it over. Also we used the generator function on the truck to power the truck a couple of times. Big plus there. This was our first extended trip with the Ollie; it is now a full fledged member of the family.

Hello LRN, We have a 2022 Ford F150 Powerboost Hybrid Lariat package, and we picked up our Elite II just two days ago from Hohenwald. Yay! (I'll post in the Delivery day sub-forum soon) MPG without the trailer, from Denver to Hohenwald, was 20 MPG overall, doing posted speed limits or +5 over. Usually 80mph in Kansas. Missouri and Tennessee speed limits are lower and we maxed at 70mph, but we also took an alternate path where the speed limits were 50/55/60/65, and we kept at the max speed limits along the route. MPG with the trailer, from Hohenwald to Atlanta, GA was 12.5 MPG while traveling at posted speed limits, and even as much as 70 mph. We used the Tow/Haul mode, which is a different engine/transmission profile; holding gears a little longer on acceleration, brake usage prompts the transmission to gear down on declines, no electric motor usage. The Truck handled very well with the trailer attached and it almost seemed like it wasn't there. No porpoising at all with the Andersen WDH. The other reasons why we got the F150 Powerboost hybrid are because I use it to commute to work a few days a week, can fit it in the home garage and the parking garage at work. Plus.. we live at 6200ft elevation, camp even higher, and the turbos make that a breeze. Hope this helps!

On the trip where I got 13.8MPG towing on steep grades & interstates I divided total miles driven by gallons used. Did the same today when not towing with the on board computer displaying slightly lower MPG than actual MPG after dividing total miles by gallons burned yielding 24.5MPG. On the other two trips where I got above 15MPG and 16MPG while towing used the on board computer with slightly higher readings than mentioned. When we purchased Ollie used and towed it home with a 2013 2WD Frontier with 4.0L automatic, the onboard computer indicated over 15MPG while towing across TN on I40. I thought the on board computer was wrong until I divided miles driven by gallons used. We used to tow an all aluminum 2000 pound 2010 CampLite camper, a 2000 pound aerodynamic brick and could not get much over 13 MPG with this same Frontier. Our Ollie is a light LE2 Ollie at 4950 pounds ready to camp with empty tanks except for full hot water heater. Some folks here get better fuel economy than our rig with a diesel powered TV and heavier Ollie, probably some gas TV rigs, too. I am very careful with throttle control while driving, like I said earlier some folks can only get 15 to 16 MPG with the same Tundra not towing, it's how they are driven. Our Tundra is also 2WD.

You call THAT driving ?😆 Just kidding! Its nice to see that there really isn't much difference between these 3.5 liter turbo 1/2 tons. Bill

My inclination right now is to remove the street side seal since we will only ever use that side for shade. I do want a gutter/seal on curbside, though, so we'll do our best to fix that. And I will save my email from Jason. mb

Looks like they fixed that issue on my 2021.

Charlie, I have them too, without the onboard compressor. Mine hold pressure for 3 or so weeks at a time, bleed from 20 to 10 psi in that time frame. Mine are double convoluted and I use a battery operated hand compressor. So far, very happy with them. They weren't that hard to install. John

JD - I believe that it (the color) is being caused by the lighting in the photo. Note the color of the aluminum where the "1up" sticker is located - much the same color as you are referring to on the sleeve. Bill

Ours is pretty much a long strip of some kind of rubber tubing. It's over ten years old, keeps the rain off my "patio", and, I do travel and live with a lot of rain. 34 inches annual average in my area, and the trailer lives outside 24/7/365. We run a hose up when we can, and wash out the detritis. However. we don't have to deal with a lot of clogging junk..no pines, sticky cottonwood, etc, on a regular basis, at home, or on our camping property in North Carolina. Just leaves. When mine dies, I will replace it. I prefer the gutter to the rainfall in my patio. I think it depends a lot on your region, and where you camp. Each situation is different. Abd, we do have the fiamma awning. Perhaps that also makes a difference. Sherry

I’m in the Reed camp. The seal keeps out the water when it’s raining and let’s me be out of the trailer under the awning. As for the junk that collects up there, I once a month go up with a water pressure wand clean it all up.

I'm resurrecting this thread because I just picked up my rig (on 04-11-2019) and see that water pools behind the awning when the seal is in place (see pic #1, IMG_6248). Although I like the idea of preventing rain from running down the entire side of the rig, I don't like 2-3 inches of water pooling back there. The water pools around the awning brackets and much of the bracket is submerged. I suspect that the holes for the bracket bolts go all the way through the outer shell, thereby presenting 8 potential leak points. There is evidence of sealant on only some of the mounting brackets and bolts, so I would assume a steady diet of pooled water would find its way into the rig up there. I'm trying an alternative to removing the seal altogether, which is to slide in a small drain tube in each "pool basin" (see pic #2, IMG 6250). We'll see.

Just a thought, I would turn the bolt so it's at the top just to make sure it can't rub a hole in the hoses down below ?

Stainless steel Banjo TC-331 just snug. Not tight. Bill