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Unfortunately, I think you're selling in a soft market. The COVID campers have had their fill, dealer lots are piling up, and prices for used RVs are dropping across the board. Of course, Ollies are something of a special case, being in a fairly exclusive niche. I wonder if it's your price, or just a dearth of prospective buyers right now. Hope you get the answers, or buyer, you're looking for, John. Personally, I'd love to have Mouse since I know it's been so meticulously cared for. Good luck.

John, I am truly sorry the health conditions are forcing the sell of Mouse. You have been a great source of information on this forum. You have imparted and great deal of wisdom and innovations to the Oliver world. To whoever get Mouse, they will get the best maintain Oliver on the market, with a lot of great innovations. I hope you will still stay active on the forums. I think your asking price, is right on. The market is very soft right now with the being flood of stick built trailers, the inflation, and unsure economy, I think people are a little gun shy. You and your wife will be in my prayers.

John, your price is right. I believe it's people who are not really familiar with Oliver and do not grasp/understand the value of all your mods!

Thanks. My wife has already posted an ad there for me, it has not received a lot of attention except for a couple of idiotic snide comments about the inward facing zerk fittings. John Davies Spokane WA

I was the second Oliver that Truma tried to do an install on. We couldn't get the unit off the roof and didn't want to risk damaging the fiberglas. Since then Oliver has done a number of them and seems to have worked out any bugs and established a pretty complete conversion, i.e., new fiberglass platform for the AC, a couple of thermostat options, etc. I'm scheduled for the end of August, but I keep bugging them, hoping someone cancels a scheduled service sooner. If not doing it real soon, you might keep track of the new Dometic low noise AC, mentioned here and elsewhere. May be more plug and play.

OOPS! Interstates all look alike - that's my story and I'm sticking to it 😄

Very nice! I just purchased this set for ours to be installed with the same concept. I was looking for maximum versatility and light weight. The combination empty on the frame extensions will add about 70# to the back of the camper. The empty tool box weighs about 45# and lifts out easily if we want to just carry something in the tray.

Here’s the back of our Ollie.

John, I sent you a PM with the solution that the previous owner devised for our Oliver.

Hi Rob! Sorry you are having trouble with it. The login for the website and forum are different. The Rewards Program has a specific registration process. You can find a link here to sign up for the Rewards Program : https://olivertraveltrailers.com/rewards-program/ or go direct at https://olivertraveltrailers.com/rewards-program/signup/. There a few videos we have posted here as well. Let me know if you are still having issues. Matt Duncan

This is the rack I have and it works well for my needs. When researching for a rack, the Let's go aero was the only rack I could find which has 1 1/4" AND was rated for use on the back of. travel trailer (not just the back of a RV, which is a different rating). You will notice that the Lets go Aero rack is also the rack used in Oliver literature when shown hauling bikes. Good luckj with whatever you decide https://www.amazon.com/Lets-Go-Aero-BikeWing-2-V-Rack/dp/B09JGTYKDG/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1W9247BM44XEC&keywords=lets+go+aero+bike+rack&qid=1689030499&sprefix=lets+go+aero+bike+rack%2Caps%2C372&sr=8-8&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0

Wow! I will see how good of a job I did on resealing the door after today. It's absolutely and utterly pouring rain outside and looks like it will be for most of the day. This was a lot of rain. Another update to come.... 🌊 After this rain, I checked the camper, and not a drop. All good!

While I won’t change my feelings about that mod, please keep everybody informed in the long term, if it works out, that would be great. My concern is the up and down torque loads, they can be tremendous, for example hitting the two whoopdedoos of a poorly graded Interstate highway bridge at 70 mph. That bottoms out the trailer suspension and transfers most of that energy to the frame and rack. It happens as you hit the bridge, and then again as you depart it. Most unnerving! I hope you have a rear camera that can be adjusted low enough to see the bikes, you can modify the power wires to operate it when driving forward. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

I think I agree with that. Structurally, the aluminum sleeve can be thought of as a shim to hold the rack snug to the steel U-bolts, which are what's truly holding the rack. That is, I think the only stress on the sleeve is compression, not shear or torque. The anti-rattle bearing on the 1-up is certainly a stress point, but I think you could solve that by lining up the bearing with the forward U-bolt. From the photos, it looks like that would be possible. I do wonder how thin the aluminum is where it's been routed to accept the U-bolts. I think a failure there could allow the sleeve to work it's way out. But it would have to fail at both bolts for that to happen, which is probably unlikely on a single drive. Worth inspecting every so often I'd imagine, but I don't see a failure as being catastrophic - you'd have time to notice.

I have done a fair amount of research prior to pursuing this mod/application with a local aluminum engineer, aluminum tech and actually spoke at length with Oliver Service and 1Up USA. I have also communicated recently with another OLEll owner who has several thousand miles on this same identical mod and bike rack with zero structural integrity issues with the rack or receiver. Based on these conversations I am not concerned about the structural safety of this mod. My 1Up USA Super Duty bike rack (engineered for a TT) just shipped from the factory. I look forward to the install sometime next week. *My understanding is one of the big reasons Oliver inserted the 1.25” reducer is owners were overloading the aluminum receiver and exceeding the engineered rack weight limit which will naturally could result in a catastrophic failure. Cheers!

How long have you used it this way? Any sign of cracks around the corners? 1/4” of aluminum is too thin to support that load for a long period of time. That is one reason Oliver engineers doubled up the thickness (they really do understand aluminum structural properties). 1 Up uses a very cool anti-rattle design but it is meant for steel, and it applies a very heavy point load at just one location.. Have they commented about its suitability for use in a much softer material? As an ex-A&P technician that mod really worries me. I think you risk having the rack and bikes drop down onto the road, or worse yet, come off completely, causing an accident. At the very least you should install a stout cable lock through the bike frames, rack AND around the bumper.I am not trying to sound hysterical, I truly think that is unsafe. John Davies Spokane wA

I’m hunkered down in scattered showers at Camp Oliver right now. Ryan did a great job with the delivery and I’m completely overwhelmed! The big stuff I’ve got covered but the little details are just going to take time.

I haven’t yet removed the box from our Ollie, but I’m estimating it to be under 50 pounds. It mounts to the two receivers shown in your photo with the bike rack.

Great idea - One is none, 2 is One.... I'll get a couple. Thanks @topgun2!

I have fenders and racks so it looks like that rack won't work. We live in Oregon. Fenders are necessary here. That was the name of the rack that OTT recommended. I think replacing the 1.25" receiver with a 2" may be my only option. John

Well, most folks here will suggest call Oliver, not that they will have that part on hand (no way), but they can confirm who your window manufacturer is and "maybe" you can get replacement material from the manufacturer themselves. Not sure otherwise. Maybe someone else has a better suggestion. Great question though!

It might be caused by hard water drying out in the PEX after winterization - we don't winterize, but it could have been from a PO's efforts to winterize.

Looks like the guard dog has the best seat in the house! Mossey

Keep us posted on the new Ollie experience. My estimated production start date is now 7 days away. May the road be kind to you.

Congratulations!!!!!!!!! Enjoy the ride :) Bill, I like that pin from TS...will be getting one soon.

What fun. Take it all in as you can but enjoy yourself. It will become second nature before you know it.

Aaron Wolters did a video while we were picking up our trailer. I'd asked him to hold it until this last week until we could reveal our purchase to my brothers. Neither knew we were even considering a new trailer, let alone bought one. Here's Aaron's magic transformation of a fun and funny 45 minutes of chatting in front of the camera. We did our surprise visit with my brothers and their wives on Sunday. We showed up at their camp with no notice. Both happened to be at the same place chatting, so when I pulled up and waved, all they could see was the Cruiser. They walked out to talk to us, and then saw the Oliver. It was wonderful to see the confused look on their faces. 🤣

Makes sense. Thanks to you and Bill (Topgun2) for the explanations. I infer that, since waxed paper shouldn't seep when friction warms it up, that should be the preferred way to reduce coupler-to-ball friction, yet avoid the seepage issue, even with my 2022 version of the Andersen WD hitch. So, I think I'll try that method.

I also upgraded to the 2-6/16" Bulldog coupler, and purchased an Andersen WD hitch with the 2-5/16" ball. I installed it myself at the Oliver campsite the day after we took delivery. Per Andersen's ALL CAPS. BOLD AND HIGHLIGHTED INSTRUCTION on page 5 of their Installation Manual to "DO NOT GREASE THE BALL OR COUPLER," I didn't. Yet, after towing 2000+ miles back home to Idaho, there is a wear pattern on the 2-5/16" ball strikingly similar to the one pictured in John Davies' initial post above, just not as deep. Photo attached. So, I plan to try the wax paper trick for the next trip or two, and evaluate whether the wear is increased. But this makes me wonder what prompts Andersen's dire warning to not grease. Are they afraid the lubricant will allow the coupler to separate from the ball?

I suppose I'm one of the "few people" as I calibrated my Harbor Freight Torque Wrench about a year ago. It was not hard to do and I saved myself almost $105,607.27 by doing it with this method. Surprisingly, it needed very little tweaking but I thought it was useful to have gone through the motions just to make sure a less than $25 torque wrench was close to being accurate. Oh and, by the way, I start my torquing procedure using several of these and this, then use the torque wrench to reach a final value of 90 pound feet. ** **Torque is usually measured in Newton metres (Nm), or pound feet (lb-ft) – the latter not to be confused with foot pounds (ft-lb), as one ft-lb refers not to a twisting force, but to the amount of energy required to raise a 1lb weight by a distance of 1ft.

It was nice to run across you, and then again in Alaska. I very much appreciated the tour of your rig, and especially seeing in action your Houghton. I'll not forget the comment I made just as I entered asking if you could turn on the unit and the huge smile you had saying "It's on high!". To all the Oliver Owners... this unit is extremely quiet even on high. This year was a long summer for sure. Total time in our Ollie was over four months. As much fun as it was, we ar glad to be home now. Starting to plan for next year's voyage! GJ

Those AlCan frost heaves are a real joy, aren't they? Spoke with a friend today who recently had the frame of his trailer (conventional construction) break in the yukon. Put a set of air bags on my F150 FX4 and am pleased with the result. Set at about 50#, they tame the porposing greatly.

Patriot - did you use the "stock" Oliver receiver or did you take the 1.25" off and replace it with a 2"? Really like this setup and while we normally carry our bikes under the truck topper, this would be a nice option to explore. Thank you for the detailed post. Brian

Been hitching mine dry. Approx 8000 mi towing in less than a year. No abnormal wear so far.

Oliver can't fix STUPID. So why treat all of as if we are? I'm with you JD!

I meant the sleeve, which is u-bolted to the Ollie rack….. it sure looks black to me. I’m glad there is no motion, that is very good. John Davies Spokane WA

1. Loading isn't as easy as when the trailer isn't attached, but possible, as you have to straddle the trailer frame. 50# e-bikes will be more difficult than our lighter bikes, for sure, but that would be the case with any rack where you have to raise the bike up that high. I'm not sure how you load them. 2. Turning radius is not impaired enough to be noticeable or a problem; maybe if you were to totally jack knife the trailer. 3. We don't use an Anderson or other anti-sway accessory 4. Your question regarding the 2 1/4" drop totally depends on the TV. Our F350 SD 4wd is not even affected by the weight of the trailer, rack and bikes. The dual hitch we use is just fine. If the drop doesn't work for you, there is no reasonable way to adjust the drop, that I can think of. When we decided to give this a try, I did some measuring and a bit of figuring, all before we even had our Oliver. Since we were lucky and found the hitch at 1/2 price, we basically took a chance, hoping it would work (which it did). We would have been disappointed if we were unable to use our 1up rack. One thing you do need to be aware of is this: there is only a small amount of clearance between the lowest point on the bike rack and the hitch latch on the Oliver. We usually lower the front of the trailer a bit, back the hitch nearly into position and then raise the front of the trailer and carefully drive under it (if that makes sense). After one or two times, this isn't hard to do.

I agree regarding the effects of additional weight on the rear of the trailer. You also need to consider the effects of it all on the bikes loaded in the rack.

How old is this sticker? I was told the limit has been increased to 150#. Call Oliver to check on this, though.

When I was researching the rear receiver, I was told by my sales agent that they had raised the weight limit to 150# Regardless, we did not opt for the rear receiver since our bike rack (1UP) is 2". We found a hitch to work between the pickup and the trailer

A fuse will not blow when the breakaway switch is activated when everything is working correctly, because the normal current flow is less than the fuse rating. The fuse is there to protect the wire if it should short out to ground, such as if a mouse chews through the insulation and the conductor touches the aluminum frame, and the wire suffers a severe current overload. The fuse pops, the wire is saved. If the same thing happens without a fuse, the wire overheats and literally melts somewhere. And your emergency brakes don’t work in either case. You still have to find and fix the problem, you just don’t have other burned stuff also, or, the worst case ever, have your beautiful Ollie burn to the pavement... Most people do not understand, a fuse protects the wire, not the device at the end of it. Your stereo shorts out, the fuse blows, the wire is safe, you replace the stereo and replace the fuse... no worries. Electrical fires are not to be taken lightly, use Google to look at some pics of “automotive electrical fire images”. Like this one: John Davies Spokane WA

LOL, here is WA, same as Federal. https://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.37.340. Will we have to check all of the other 48 states, just in case one says "no fuse please"? If there is one, it makes no sense for everybody to have to blindly follow along. 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

Well, I emailed Fastway asking how they decided to draw their diagram with no fuse. Maybe they can shed light on this. I hate the idea of the "wire being the fuse" because it could literally fail anywhere along is entire length, so it might damage other wires, and replacement could be problematic and labor intensive. You can easily string a new BAS wire, but fixing other burned ones, not so easy, especially if it takes out a bigger high-amperage wire with potentially a lot more current flow, like one of those ginormous inverter cables... John Davies Spokane WA

Link to federal requirements (Cornell Law School) Click on subpart C and then section 43 for specifics on breakaway

Seems to be a quandary - Cautious folks would like to see the circuit protected - makes sense in most cases. However in this case - the safety factor of the BAS and its intended result overrides the "normal" fusing requirements. In some manner - the wire is a large amperage fuse - yes it will cause a little smoke and perhaps a flame. I would believe it is a requirement. Not fusing is less dangerous than any damage a run-away Oliver would represent. The resetting breaker is an interesting idea. I'll leave mine alone. RB

I would think it should not be fused.If the fuse popped and you needed the emergency break away it won’t do its job. It needs constant 12v power while hooked to the TV.

I believe Oliver recommends 100 pounds max load on the recommended Lets Go Aero BikeWing 1.25" rack (which you can find that weight online).... if I am interpreting their data right. ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/new-bike-hitch-capacity/ A call to Howenwald would clarify. I personally find the idea of hanging floppy cargo off that very small receiver MORE than a little disconcerting. The back end of your Ollie is a pretty violent location when you hit a big bridge dip at 65 mph. I double strap everything in my rear rack so I don't lose cans and chocks en route. John Davies Spokane WA

Makes sense. I learn something interesting and/or helpful every time I visit this forum.

It's impossible to get away from wear when you have a forged, two piece coupler on a machined ball. Under normal circumstances, this would be predominantly on the top area of the ball, due to the tongue weight down force. This is where mine shows wear and it was expected. But with the particular design of the Anderson, there is a very large and constant forward force applied to the ball. The Bulldog coupler doesn't seem to really be designed for this, but is perfectly capable of handling it as long as the sliding sleeve does it's job. The way the two forged pieces come together to enclose the ball doesn't describe a perfect spherical shape to match the ball and there has to be some grinding. Load leveling hitches in general put a lot of force of the coupling/ball interface. Anderson used to say not to grease this interface, but I've recommended to always grease it. Bottom line: There will always be wear with this design. The chrome finish is the first to go. The ball and socket fit will never be perfect. Wear will be much faster with load leveling than with a simple coupling. I've never been a big fan of the Anderson design, but with the tongue design of the Oliver and the factory offering only this brand and design, it seems there will have to be some maintenance or replaced parts occasionally. I doubt anyone really needs one of these special hitches as the Oliver is incredibly stable by nature. Heavier rear springs or air bags would handle the tongue weight more efficiently than the awkward geometry of the tensioned chain design. If damping was needed, and I doubt it is, a strut design might be better than the cone clutch and chains of the Anderson that seems to always be making too much noise and need replacement.

Well it is great to see that John is hooking his Andersen WD up properly. Unfortunately the wear on the ball is normal when our hitch is used as designed. With the chains correctly tensioned the coupler does push on the back of the ball and will leave evidence of that. With our WD hitch and a regular coupler the locking claw leaves a (smiley face) in the chrome plating because the ball is designed to be softer than the claw so the trailer is not having excessive wear in inconspicuous safety related spots. It seams to wear rapidly at first then it stops once the initial wear has settled in. Anytime there is metal on metal friction there will be wear, even with grease. As we can see from John's original ball, the difference is where it happens. Is it on the top and front of the ball with a traditional hitch or is it on the backside with the Andersen? If the ball is harder than the coupler the ball will not show much sign of wear but the inside of the trailer coupler will, however; that often goes unnoticed until it is to late. With the design of the Bulldog coupler there is a different wear pattern on the ball and it should wear to a point similar to the photo John provided then neutralize. This should not affect the performance or the safety of the connection at all.